What to do if kiwi leaves turn yellow. Non-communicable diseases
Place of origin: Southeast Asia, Australia, New Zealand.
Usage: decorative and deciduous.
Plant sizes: up to 1.5 m in height.
Growth: slow.
Flowering: rare.
Lighting: Bright place, partial shade, does not tolerate direct sunlight. Many consider cordilina, like dracaena, shade-loving plant, but in fact, in a dark place, it will lag behind in growth and shrink. For good growth and development needs intense light. Variegated forms require more lighting than green leafed forms. If there is enough light in the summer, then in the winter the cordilines should be rearranged closer to the window, since in winter there is usually not enough light.
Watering: Plentiful in summer, moderate in winter, but taking into account the indoor temperature. Cordilina does not tolerate stagnant water in a pot, otherwise the plants will shed their leaves. But it also does not tolerate overdrying an earthen coma. Cordilins are suitable for growing in hydroponics, they are good for watering not from above, but through a tray.
Reproduction: Apical cuttings (using heteroauxin and heated soil), pieces of the trunk, at least 10 cm long, layering. If you cut off the top of the cordiline, you can put it in a jar of water by adding a few pieces of charcoal there.
Air humidity: Cordilins require regular spraying of the leaves. As long as the plant is small, it can be placed on a tray of water. Give the plant a warm shower periodically to remove dust and refresh the plant. Dry brown leaf tips often grow on cordilina when kept in rooms with central heating in winter.
Change: In the spring, every two years. The soil for cordilina is a mixture of heavy turf and leafy soil, rotted manure or greenhouse soil with the addition of sand. When transplanting cordilina, add pieces of wood (birch) charcoal and brick chips to the fresh soil mixture in addition to sand. On a bucket of earth, three handfuls of coals and 0.5 liters of brick chips. Pieces of coal prevent the development of rotting processes, and brick chips increase the looseness of the soil and collect excess moisture, which is very important, because dracaena do not tolerate excess and stagnant water.
Top dressing: Fertilization: During the growth period, from April to August, every two weeks, cordilins are fed with special complex fertilizers for indoor plants. You can use "Rainbow", "Ideal", "Giant", etc.
Cropping: not needed.
Pests and Diseases: Brown tips or edges of leaves - too dry air, cold drafts or insufficient watering.
Brown spots on the leaves - insufficient watering.
The leaves are curled, soft with brown edges - too low temperature, it may be warm during the day, and at night the temperature drops below normal.
Yellowing of leaves - with dry air, lack of nutrients in soil (in particular nitrogen).
Turn yellow lower leaves - It is common for cordilina to lose the lower leaves, while the upper part of the plant remains leafy. You can only rejuvenate the plant by cutting off and rooting the top. You can also plant younger plants in a pot to the old cordilina, in a group they will look more spectacular (see photo above).
Light dry spots on the leaves - too intense lighting or sunburn. Cordilina needs shading from direct sunlight.
Scale: brown plaques on the surface of leaves and stems, sucking out cell sap. The leaves lose color, dry out and fall off.
Control measures. For mechanical cleaning of pests, the leaves are wiped with a soapy sponge. Then spray the plant with 0.15% actellik solution (1-2 ml per liter of water).
Thrips - high temperature and low humidity air.
On the underside of the leaf, thrips lays numerous colonies, and light dots appear on the upper side of the leaf. As a result, the upper side of the leaf becomes grayish brown with a silvery sheen.
Control measures. The plant should be sprayed, if necessary, repeatedly with insecticides (fitoverm, decis, actellik, inta-vir).
Aphids - also sometimes infect cordilins. They damage the leaves on the underside, the tops of the shoots. The damaged parts are discolored, the leaves curl, turn yellow and fall off.
Control measures. Spraying with derris, phytoverm, decis, actellik, inta-vir. In case of severe damage, repeat the treatment.
Features of care: Tips for care.
Cordilins by appearance often confused with dracaena. To distinguish them, you have to get the plant out of the pot. Cordilina has roots white on the cut and have swelling or pineal growths, and in dracaena the roots are even and smooth in color from orange and yellow to light brown.
Cordilins with wide leaves require more watering during the growth period than cordilins with narrow leaves, as their leaves evaporate more moisture.
Cordilins respond very well to periodic loosening of the top layer of soil in pots in spring and summer. This improves soil aeration. If a upper layer earth in a pot with cordilina, the earth on the surface is covered with a white crust - these are salt deposits from water and soil, then this land must be removed and replaced with fresh.
Growing Kiwi at Home The best time to sow is from March to May. Pick the most ripe kiwi from the store. The fruit should be soft, even, without flaws. Wash the fruit and cut it into several pieces. Mash the pulp gently. Throw the resulting gruel into a glass of warm water, stir and let stand a little. Rinse several times - the pulp will go away, and the bones will remain floating on the surface. Place the kiwi seeds on a napkin. They will dry out in 2-4 hours. Wrap the bones in cotton or cloth and place in a saucer. Add some hot water - it should saturate the material well, but not spill out when the container is tilted. Cover the seeds with foil and place in a warm, sunny place. It is better to open the film at night or remove it altogether. Top up in the morning required amount water. After 7-10 days, the kiwi seeds should hatch. Take a flower pot and sprinkle some expanded clay on the bottom. It is better to take the soil ready-made, intended for tropical vines... Soak it in a water bath for two hours. Put 2-3 seeds in holes 5-10 mm deep. Sprinkle them lightly with earth, sprinkle them with water room temperature and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place the tray in a warm, sunny place. The first shoots will appear in 3-6 days. It is better to start getting rid of unpromising and unnecessary sprouts already at this stage. Water sparingly and only with standing water. In winter, the growth of kiwi shoots slows down, and it is enough to water them 2-3 times a month. During the growing season (spring and summer), plants need more moisture, so watering is necessary more often - 2 times a week. In addition, in the hot summer, kiwi must be sprayed. Do not forget to thin out the plants, otherwise they will interfere with each other. In the early stages, they can simply be pulled out of the ground. A little later, this will no longer work, since root system kiwi develops quickly enough. The most the right option there will be cutting off an unnecessary sprout. When the plants are 10-12 cm tall, transplant them into separate trays. If this is not done, their development will slow down. In favorable conditions, kiwi from seeds begins to bloom and bear fruit in the third or fourth year.
The secret of a luxurious indoor flower garden is simple: the plants need to be well fed, otherwise you will not wait for either lush foliage or good flowering... A tough "diet", when a plant lacks nutrients for a long time, usually leads to disease - after all, the plant has no strength to resist. But what is the correct menu for green pets, taking into account their different tastes? 1. Almost all plants love sugar (and cacti in general are great sweet tooth). Before watering, you can sprinkle 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar (with a pot diameter of about 10 cm) on the surface of the soil or give the plant some sweet water (0.5 teaspoon of sugar in 0.5 cups of water). 2. A good effect is given by feeding beautifully flowering castor oil (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water) while tying buds. 3). Very useful for plants wood ash (both as food and for the prevention of diseases). To prepare an ash solution 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ash must be poured into 1 liter of hot water and insisted for 1 week, sometimes stirring. Watering with this solution - 1 time per 10 days. 4. You can water the plants with this infusion: take the peel of pomegranates or any citrus fruits. We fill them with water and let stand for a day. All! The nutrient infusion for watering is ready! 5. The immunity of indoor plants is excellently increased by spraying with an aspirin solution. One tablet dissolves in a liter of water. 6. Diluted aloe juice is also suitable for all common indoor plants... It is necessary to dilute one teaspoon of juice in one and a half liters of water. 7. Ficuses can be watered with sweetened water once a month. One teaspoon of sugar takes one liter of water. The leaves of these plants can be wiped with milk. This will give the plants shine and beauty. 8. Mushroom infusion will help your plants look healthy and beautiful. Soak chopped edible mushrooms in a ratio of 1 to 1. After a day, drain the infusion, and fill the mushrooms with water again. In a day, the mushroom water for irrigation will be ready. 9. Violets will like this feeding: take an ampoule of vitamin B12 and dilute it in a liter of water (of course, settled). You can feed violets with such a vitamin twice a month. 10. Banana peels, which are rich in potassium, magnesium and phosphorus, can be used for plant transplantation. On top of the drainage layer, lay a layer of finely chopped or minced banana peel, cover it with soil and plant the plant.
Freezing of plants in autumn and spring. The kiwi plant, under favorable climatic conditions, can grow year-round. Therefore, in cases when autumn and / or winter were warm, and then a sharp cold snap set in, it is possible that the plants are damaged by frost, and sometimes the plants completely freeze out.
Control measures. Plants are watered and sprayed abundantly on the eve and after frost. Moisture keeps warm, and the plant does not freeze. Also the most simple and effective way the fight against frost will be covering the plants with sacking, rags, and also acrylic on top. They must be tied at the corners on four sides to the base of the palmette. The next way to protect plants is to smoke with smoke bombs or smoke fires, and in especially severe frosts (up to -5 ... -6 ° C and below) - a combination of the two methods. Smoke heaps are best prepared in advance. To do this, put two stakes on the ground crosswise, put a third between them. Lay dry combustible material (straw, brushwood, firewood) tightly on them, then raw combustible material (shavings, sawdust, tops, leaves, manure, needles). Add a small layer of soil on top. The vertical stake is removed before ignition. Air will enter the pile through the hole, and it will be able to smoke. It is better to place such a device between rows, between parallel palmettes with an interval of 3 to 8 meters, depending on the strength of the wind and the intensity of the frost. Smoke should be started when the air temperature drops to +2 ° С and finished two hours after sunrise. It should also be borne in mind that the coldest time falls on the predawn hours.
You need to know the parts of plants most vulnerable to frost. So, the kiwi, first of all, freeze fruit buds... An increase in frost resistance is facilitated by spraying plants with dormant buds with a weak 0.5% solution of potassium nitrate. In kiwi, the root system is located superficially, therefore, care should be taken to protect the roots from freezing by hilling the root collar with soil or sawdust along the diameter of the entire plant.
Withering of plants due to lack of moisture. Kiwi plants are very demanding on moisture. Conditions of the Russian subtropics by total amount annual precipitation (up to 1500 mm) fully meet the requirements of the culture. However, the distribution of precipitation over periods is uneven, especially in the summer months - the period of fruit filling - there is an acute lack of moisture. However, kiwi plants do not tolerate its excess well.
The symptoms of a lack of moisture are the loss of turgor by plants, which is restored after watering. If it did not recover, the plant died or the nature of these symptoms is infectious. If plants have been lacking for a long time, then partial or complete abscission of leaves, flowers or fruits may occur.
Control measures. During three summer months, at least 6 irrigations are carried out at the rate of 300 m3 / ha per irrigation. On young plantations, it is possible in the first two years to carry out local irrigation directly under the plants until the root layer of the soil is completely saturated. The total consumption of irrigation water in the season on heavy loamy soils is about 2000 m3 / ha.
Sunburn. If the kiwi plants were watered at the wrong time of day or not at the root, sunburn may appear on the leaves. Sunburns are caused by overheating of the water droplets left on the leaves after watering. A drop of water on a leaf acts as a lens that collects the sun's rays. Tissues under drops of water overheat, quickly die off, and brown spots of different size and shape appear on the sheet.
Control measures. Watering at a favorable time of the day. The most favorable time of the day is the evening and night hours, when surface evaporation decreases, the likelihood of sunburn leaves through the lens of drops, and the coefficient of moisture utilization by the root system also increases. And also watering plants at the root.
Plants soaking. If the choice of a site for the plantation was made incorrectly or a high-quality drainage, drainage of the site was not made, in months with a high precipitation rate or during irrigation, water stagnation on the site may occur. The consequence of this is a lack of soil air and, as a consequence, complete or partial death of the plant. Stagnant water contributes to the development of infectious diseases affecting kiwi.
Control measures. Required right choice plot for laying a kiwi plantation. When water stagnates on an already broken plantation, it is necessary to drain it using special drainage channels that are dug in the aisles. It is also possible to dig holes in the aisles, which are buried after a period of excessive moisture. Drainage is carried out using plastic pipes, in which holes are made, and they are buried in the soil in the aisles, holes upward, to the depth of the roots. The pipes are connected to each other and taken out of the plantation. Every 3 - 5 years drainage pipes require cleaning.
Lack of nitrogen. On loamy soils with a low humus content, which mainly represent the soils of the Russian subtropics, plants during the growing season most often experience a nitrogen deficiency, which ultimately leads to a loss of productivity and even plant death. Lack of nitrogen causes depression of the plant, shredding of leaves, yellowing of the leaf blades and reddening of the stems.
Control measures. When these signs appear, you should nitrogen feeding with irrigation water to avoid scalding of root hairs in the surface layer of the soil. Foliar feeding with a weak (0.1 - 0.2%) urea solution is also possible.
Lack of phosphorus. Lack of phosphorus can be identified by changes in leaf color, which becomes dark green and dull. Leaves shrink, the plant looks depressed, the yield is sharply reduced.
Control measures. Timely and systematic application of phosphorus fertilizers.
Lack of potassium. With a large potassium deficiency, the leaves acquire a reddish-brown color, dry out and fall off.
Control measures. Timely introduction potash fertilizer (including dressing) prevents the appearance of these signs. With a lack of potassium, you can feed the plants with potassium salt. Water solution which plants are watered at the root or produced foliar feeding.
Lack of magnesium. The lack of magnesium in the plant is expressed in the appearance of brown spots on the leaf blade between the veins, the leaves become yellowish-green, the plant looks depressed.
Control measures. With a lack of magnesium, magnesium sulfate is added to the soil or foliar feeding is carried out with a 1% solution of it.
Other factors influencing the emergence of non-communicable diseases in the soil and climatic conditions of the city of Sochi do not have a significant effect on the growth and development of kiwi plants.
An exception may be such meteorological factors as: wind (tornadoes), showers, hail and lightning. But they are of a periodic nature and, as a rule, they do not cause significant harm to kiwi plantations if the agricultural technology of their cultivation is followed.
Vladimir Bugaev
Not so long ago, for fun, I sowed kiwi seeds in a flower pot. to my surprise, after a few days they climbed together. then planted in different containers, they grow well. the largest sprout is up to 3 cm and it has 5 rough leaves. please tell me what can come of this experiment? and how to care for plants. and what, in general, is a kiwi plant? \u003e read\u003e
So I decided to grow kiwi at home! Could you tell me how to make my dream come true? How to plant and care. \u003e read\u003e
Tell us about the details of garden kiwi care. \u003e read\u003e
Please tell us about the beneficial properties of kiwi. \u003e read\u003e
What is the history of the kiwi plant? \u003e read\u003e
How to properly propagate kiwi? Tips for propagating common actinidia kolomikta by cuttings didn't work.
Respond, who tried to plant kiwi in the suburbs! \u003e read\u003e
I planted kiwi, they went up very large quantities... I've heard that kiwis can bear fruit at home - how can you help speed up this process? How to tell the gender of plants? \u003e read\u003e
Olga Yurievna Morozova says:
I love kiwi, this wonderful hairy fruit; I really like its taste. I read in a book that in nature, the Kiwi vine reaches 25 meters in height, and 15-20 cm in diameter.
And one day I decided to grow a kiwi vine myself, from seeds. When buying a kiwi fruit, I felt and chose a softer, strawberry-scented ripe fruit. I removed the seeds from the kiwi and laid them out to dry on toilet paper for a few hours. Then she sowed in a pot, spreading them evenly over the surface of the wet substrate, sprinkled with earth and lightly sprinkled the substrate with water. And put the pot on the window. Kiwi shoots were not long in coming and EVERYONE sprang up together!
When I started growing kiwi, I read a bunch of literature; there they write that the young shoots of kiwi in the first two years of life must be shaded as young leaves are afraid of direct sunlight. In the summer, I carried the seedlings to the glazed balcony and watered abundantly, not letting the earthen coma dry out.
In the first two years, the seedlings grew very slowly, by the end of the second year they were only 10-15 cm each. I understood that it was very cramped for them all in one pot, but at that time I did not have room on the window for each bush separately ... I transplanted the two strongest bushes into separate pots, began to take care of them: I fertilized them every week with ordinary fertilizer for indoor flowers, watered abundantly. In the summer they began to grow so actively that I had to tie a support rope. My Kiwis so rapidly crawled upwards that from May to September they grew almost two meters! At the end of the season, I brought the kiwi into the apartment and pulled a rope under the ceiling so that my beautiful liana was comfortable.
Kiwi is very fond of abundant watering and daily spraying of the leaves during the growth period. And if the kiwi doesn't like something, then its leaves dry up and the vine sheds them; but after a while new leaves appear.
For the entire period of growth of the Kiwi vine, I did not light it up (when she was little, it seemed to me that she had enough light on the window). IN room conditions liana never dropped leaves for the winter. This southern and thermophilic plant winters in my apartment. I have never cut off Liana Kiwi.
I hope that my experience will help an exotic lover to grow a beautiful Kiwi liana from seeds.
Tatyana Alekseevna (Sochi) says:
- We live in Sochi. It is extremely easy to grow a kiwi in the garden: you just need to root its stalk and form a bush. It is best to first form a "stem" of kiwi with a height of 60-80 cm from the ground, and then - four to five main (skeletal) "branches", which will then give a stable harvest.
Like all actinidia, kiwi is characterized by active growth and good awakening of the buds, therefore, pruning of vines should be carried out almost all year round.
Kiwi is not susceptible to disease, so no spraying is required. Besides
pruning and watering, no more kiwi maintenance.
By the way, if a lot of "male" plants are taken when planting kiwi (norm: 1 male plant for 5-6 female) - it doesn't matter, kiwi is easily grafted with "eyes".
We had this problem: instead of female plants kiwis were sold to us for men. For six years we waited in vain for fruits from them, and then we grafted on them buds from female plants, which quickly began to grow.
In our conditions, kiwi survives the winter very well: plants hibernate without shelter and easily tolerate even sub-zero temperatures.
In addition to kiwi, tangerines, lemons, feijoa, pomegranate, unabi, sea buckthorn, apple trees, plums, cherries grow and bear fruit in our small garden, walnut and hazelnuts, several varieties of persimmon and grapes, mimosa, bamboo, laurel, dogwood.
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Despite the fact that Calathea is quite capricious, it relatively rarely suffers from diseases and pests, if you create the right conditions for it. The most common problems are powdery mildew, spider mites, scale insects and whiteflies.
Mealybug
What is called powdery mildew, in fact, is the result of the activity of a pest called a mealybug. They settle in whole colonies under the leaves. You can observe small pellets, as if from dirty cotton wool, dotting the leaves, their petioles and peduncles. Worms suck sap from plants. As a result, the more Calathea suffers, the more its growth is inhibited, deformed, dry and leaves fall off.
For prevention, regularly carefully examine the plants, wipe the leaves with a damp sponge at least once every 15–20 days, cut off all yellowed, withered, dried leaves in a timely manner. The sooner you find the problem and start to deal with it, the easier it is to get rid of the worm.
Control measures:
If one of the drugs gives no visible results, use the other until you find the most effective chemical.
Spider mite
The spider mite is a pest that feeds on plant juices, it is a carrier of many pathogenic viruses, fungi and bacteria. On a kalatea affected by a spider mite, one can notice thin filaments braiding leaves or their petioles, as well as small whitish dots on the lower part of the leaf plate. If the process has gone too far, the plant literally hides under a thick layer of whitish mass, resembling a cobweb.
A spider mite feels great in insufficiently humidified air, therefore, regularly spray calathea leaves for prevention. Carry out sanitary pruning in a timely manner - remove faded flower stalks, old dried leaves.
You should not be overly zealous with moisture - the liquid accumulating in the axils of the leaves, especially in winter, will very quickly lead to rotting of the flower. Also, do not hope to drown the pests by periodically submerging the entire plant in water. Ticks can form a bubble of air that effectively protects them.
Control measures:
Don't limit yourself to surface spraying. The spider mite prefers secluded places, such as leaf axils. It is also useful to process the pots, stands for them and the window sill.
- Onion infusion. 10-15 g of finely chopped onion or 2 times less husk is poured with a liter of water at room temperature and insisted for 8-10 hours. Filter the infusion before use.
- Infusion of dandelion roots. Pour a tablespoon of finely chopped raw materials in a liter warm water and insist 2-3 hours.
- Garlic infusion. Gruel from peeled cloves (12-15 pieces) is poured with a liter of water and infused for 4-5 days. Then they mix thoroughly and take a teaspoon of liquid for spraying, again diluting it in a liter of water.
Shield
On leaves affected by this pest, a sticky transparent coating appears, clearly visible in the sun due to its characteristic shine. The scale insects feed on plant sap, and their excrement creates a light and airtight film, negatively affecting the normal course of photosynthesis and cellular respiration of the plant. Calathea practically stops growing, the leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry out.
For prophylaxis, regularly inspect the plants for the presence of characteristic dark brown almost flat growths on the underside of the leaves, on the petioles and at the roots. At least once every 2-3 weeks, wipe the calathea with a soft cloth soaked in warm water.
Control measures:
Since some of the listed products are quite toxic, read the label carefully and follow all the safety measures described by the manufacturer. It is best to carry out processing on a balcony, loggia or outdoors.
Whitefly
Tiny insects with whitish wings appear on the underside of calathea leaves. If you shake the plant slightly, you can see them rise into the air. On the leaves, starting from the lowest ones, a shiny sticky coating is formed. Whitefly loves heat very much and high humidity... Therefore, in winter, for prophylaxis, it is useful to keep calatheas for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of about 18 ° C.
Control measures:
- Traps. Pieces of cardboard, plywood, glass are painted in bright colors and placed next to flower pots, having previously lubricated with a mixture of petroleum jelly or rosin with honey, jam or sugar syrup. Whiteflies stick to the trap, attracted by the bright color. Homemade traps will be successfully replaced by special sticky tapes designed for catching flies.
- Infusion of yarrow. 3 tablespoons of leaves and stems are finely chopped and poured with a liter of boiling water. Insist day. Filter the leaves before spraying.
- Garlic infusion. A teaspoon of finely chopped arrows or a gruel of 2-3 cloves is poured with a liter of water and infused for a day.
However, any folk remedies are effective only when the problem is identified in a timely manner and there are still not very many pests.
