How to plant a watermelon to make large, sweet fruits. Tasty striped berry: how to grow a watermelon yourself. Is it possible to plant watermelons in July

In recent years, a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow a gourd culture in your country, you need to make a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help realize a dream that will result in a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Choosing a place is an important stage in planting a watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and yield:

• watermelon loves places with a lot of light; in the shade, it develops poorly and cannot produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• thanks to the highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant, planting in places with a close underground water table is unacceptable for it;
• for the cultivation of gourds, light sandy or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon gives small fruits that crack even green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility; they grow well both on chernozems and on poor sandy and rocky soils. Still, well-cultivated plots are needed to get large yields. To do this, in the autumn, they will dig the place of future planting and make fertilizers:

• superphosphate, azofosku (according to the instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m 2 area of \u200b\u200bthe site. Fertilizing before planting eliminates the need for regular fertilizing during the growing season of the plant.

For a watermelon you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order to prepare and plant watermelon seeds correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruits. A variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose the plant that is most adapted to the cultivation conditions in your region. Between themselves, watermelons can vary in large or small fruits, their ripening speed, have different resistance to diseases.

Presowing seed treatment

Preparing seeds for sowing is an important stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops, especially during home cultivation, as in conditions of limited space the requirements for the selection of plants increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to choose the best of them, discard small and damaged ones. The selection is usually carried out manually: seed is scattered on a smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which in the future will provide the plants with good growth and high productivity.

For sowing choose the largest seeds

Warming and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in the cells, which helps to improve seed germination, the formation of more female flowers, good growth and development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. The seed is poured into a tissue bag and immersed in warm water (50-60 ° C) for 2-3 hours.
2. Then transferred for half an hour to disinfect in a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
3. The bag is removed, allowed to drain excess moisture.
4. Seeds are spread on wet sand, a cotton or paper substrate and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until seedlings appear.

If you bought processed seeds, they should not be soaked and should be planted immediately in the ground.

Germination of watermelon seeds for planting in open ground or seedlings

Hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sharp fluctuations in temperature and to obtain an earlier and abundant crop, seeds are hardened. Most often, seed is affected in two ways:

• exposure to constant low temperature. For 1-2 days, the swollen and hatching watermelon seeds are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 ± 1 ° C with periodic stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by digging the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature of at least 6 ° C, then they must be kept warm at a temperature of 18–20 ° C for the same period. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of tanks and soil

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml (minimum capacity height - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). For planting, a soil mixture is prepared in which sand, turf soil and peat are applied in equal proportions. To 5 l of prepared soil add:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with the mixture so that between the soil surface and the edge of the pot there is about 3 cm left. As the plants grow, the soil can be poured into the pot.

To avoid further transplanting or picking, seeds are sown in separate pots

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly, depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time to land is mid-late April. Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. Pots put on the brightest window, preferably the south.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container

Planting seeds in open ground

Directly in the open ground, prepared seeds can only be sown in the southern regions with a warm climate. The best time for planting is when the air temperature is set within 12-14 ° C, and the soil warms up to a depth of 10 cm. Sowing is best done in the last decade of May, at this time the probability of cooling decreases significantly. In cold soil, seed germination time increases, as a result of which seedlings can die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. To plant a watermelon, a hole is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm;

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tbsp. l.);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• sand is additionally added to heavy soil, everything is mixed.

Germinated watermelon seeds are sown in prepared wells. Prior to this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured onto the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out to a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed after sowing is not watered. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for the sprouts to reach the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered abundantly as the soil dries, but not more than 1 time in 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25-30 cm. Soon after the emergence of the sprouts, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants, in the phase of 3-4 of these leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct sowing in the soil is more resistant to stresses, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than the seedling culture.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

Seedling Care

So that the plants in the pots grow well and develop, they create optimal conditions:

• daytime temperature should be about 25 ° C, during the night it is lowered to 20 ° C. Under such conditions, sprouts will appear in 7-10 days;
• the required duration of daylight hours is at least 12 hours. The lack of lighting helps to draw out seedlings and can cause their death, on cloudy days it is recommended that the plants be illuminated with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have sprouted, the weak are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering the seedlings is carried out in several stages, avoiding the ingress of water on the leaves;
• in phase 3 of these leaves, the plant is fed a fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

Subject to these rules, seedlings will grow strong and healthy and easily take root in a new place.

After weeding out weak seedlings, only one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the bed, their age is 30–35 days, at least 4 leaflets are formed in the plant. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are tempered: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the time spent every day. 3-4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept outdoors, and in the evening, before transplanting, they are watered abundantly.

After quenching, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, plants are planted in a permanent place. A transplant is carried out in the morning: a watermelon together with an earthen lump is removed from the container, planted in a hole, then watered and covered with a film. The root neck of seedlings is not buried.

After planting seedlings, the earthen lump should be completely covered by soil, the root neck of the watermelon is left open

Video: transplanting seedlings of watermelons in the open ground

The lunar calendar 2020 planting watermelons

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Often, vegetable growers resort to the help of the lunar calendar. Favorable dates for 2020:

• the most positive effect on the growth of melons will be on March 3, 10, and 11;
• in April, the 9th, 15th and 23rd are favorable times for transplanting seedlings;
• in May, watermelons are recommended to be planted on the 13th, 14th and 20th numbers;
• planting garden crops is undesirable in the days of the new moon and full moon:
  • April 8 and 25,
  • May 7 and 22.

Scheme and landing depth

There are different schemes for planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is affected by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering occupy a smaller area, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal mass (3-5 kg \u200b\u200bor more than 8 kg). The higher the density of planting watermelons - the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, it is taken into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• on the bed early varieties are placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• watermelons of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties are planted according to the 2x2 m pattern; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

A smaller number indicates the distance between the plants when planting, a large - between the rows.

The higher the density of planting watermelons - the smaller the fruits will grow

The depth of embedment of seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the finer the seed, the less the planting depth);
• soil type (on light soils, the incorporation is deeper than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds spread on a moistened layer).

Seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot so that the root neck is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

In order to guarantee a good harvest of gourds, you need to not only follow the rules of planting, but also know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• watermelon does not tolerate gusty wind. To create shelter, corn, peas or beans are planted around the site;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant releases phytoncides, which prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• watermelon is a great neighbor;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• sow thistle and gauze contribute to the growth of melons;
• watermelon grows well next to plantings of greens (the exception is parsley);
• phytoncides of tomatoes drive away aphids, sawflies and a fire-lamp.

All representatives of melons grow very much, so it is better to plant crops that give an early harvest next to them.

Planting some plants near a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, therefore, the choice of neighbors should be approached responsibly:

• gourds grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that obscure the area;
• watermelon does not like the neighborhood of strawberries and representatives of solanaceous (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, pepper);
• it extracts a large amount of mineral substances from the soil, so it is not recommended to grow watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes;
• watermelons should not be planted along with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agricultural technique is crop rotation. With the alternation of gourds with a frequency of 3-4 years on the field, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in one field for more than 2 consecutive years, the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs
• green feed corn
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strongly not recommended to plant gourds in the area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After collecting watermelon, this area is best planted with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

In a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work is carried out as follows:

1. A 16-liter bucket is prepared (a wooden box 50x50x30 cm in size can be used).
2. The tank is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2: 1. This will protect the soil from stagnation of water.
3. After the third true leaf appears in the seedlings, the plant, along with an earthen lump, is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimum daytime temperature is 25–30 ° C, and the night temperature is 18–20 ° C. Such conditions are created in the spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate, watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. Every 2 weeks the soil is fertilized. For this, liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). For watering, only a fresh solution is prepared.
7. At the stage of ovary formation, a second top dressing is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2-3 weeks - a third.
8. Pinch the side shoots of a watermelon, leaving only the main lash.
9. In the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are torn off, petals are removed and female flowers are pollinated (with a thickening below), touching the stamens of the pestles.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more like a hobby than a way to get a delicious berry. Under the conditions of the apartment, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except during the hot summer on the balcony. A watermelon grown at home is unlikely to please the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who nevertheless decide on an experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the tank in order to protect the roots from overmoistening. And to determine if a watermelon needs watering, we can recommend slightly raising the bucket with the plant, guided by its weight on soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, gourds are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require garter. When grown in northern areas with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places, it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides of the beds they dig in a support with a height of at least 1.5 m, between them pull ropes or twine.
2. Others are tied to the taut ropes, which descend to the plants and serve as a support for the stems of the watermelon, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is fixed on the stem of the plant or on the ground.
4. The main stem is tied up in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All lateral shoots are removed, as female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are laid in nets, then individually tied to the trellis so as not to fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2-3 fruits the size of a chicken egg, the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons do not have time to ripen.

Tapestry is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely

Under cover material

Especially popular at present is the cultivation of watermelons under cover material. The additional costs of the film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in open ground;
• decrease in daily temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and preservation of soil moisture.

The use of covering material can reduce the ripening period of fruits by 7-10 days. This method is especially relevant in conditions of short or wet summers and can be used in several ways:

Spanbond can cover plants directly along the lashes, protecting from possible frost

Features planting watermelons in various regions

Watermelon is a thermophilic crop that needs a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, Krasnodar Territory, the republics of Transcaucasia), watermelons are traditionally grown in an open way, which is facilitated by the large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the vegetation of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparation for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough for the fruit to ripen, so first grow watermelon seedlings.

In regions with a temperate cold and harsh climate (Leningrad Oblast, Moscow Region, Siberia, the Far East), watermelon yield will always be moderate. To receive it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• only precocious varieties are chosen for planting;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in the middle band - also in open ground under a film (in spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow in width, watering the plants is carried out not under the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the aisle;
• no more than 5–6 fruits are left on one plant, for the production of large berries, 1–2 fruits; a plank is placed under each so that they do not rot in cool conditions.

For cultivation in the northern regions, only ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:

• for Moscow region:
  • Sugar Baby (Sugar Baby),
  • Crimson Sweet
  • Skorik
  • Light
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhan
  • Top Gun
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkov,
  • Light
  • Rose of the Southeast,
  • Early ripening;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow Region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Krimstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder
  • Crimson Sweet
  • Ultra early
  • Light
  • Siberian.

The average fruit ripening period for the middle band is about 70–80 days, medium-sized fruits - from 2 kg to 4–6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge of planting and caring for watermelons will surely reward you with delicious and healthy berries. You can grow a watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose a suitable variety and not be too lazy to make a shelter.

It can be grown elsewhere than in the south of our country. However, at the end of March 2017, the State Register of the Russian Federation registered 211 varieties and hybrids adapted for various climatic conditions; including those that can be grown in all regions.

Today we’ll talk about a table watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) - it is this species that pleases us with its delicious fruits. Watermelon belongs to the Pumpkin family. Fruit (pumpkin) is a multi-seeded berry.

Watermelon flowers are divided into female, male and bisexual. The bulk of the varieties - with bisexual, but there are those in which the flowers on the plant are strictly same-sex. Female flowers are slightly larger than male flowers. Like many plants of this family, watermelon is cross-pollinated.

Watermelon flowers are located on the main shoot in the axils of the leaves according to the ripening period: in early ripening - from 4 to 11 leaves, with an average period - from 15 to 18 leaves, later varieties have flowers in the sinuses from 20 to 25 leaves.

Growing watermelon after related crops is not recommended. But legumes and cabbage are good predecessors.

Sowing watermelon directly into the ground

You can sow watermelons right into the ground, but you need to choose the right variety or hybrid for your region, otherwise you can’t count on a good harvest. Sow a watermelon when the soil is warmed to a depth of about 10 cm and the optimum temperature for seedlings is +15 ... + 16 ° С.

After the emergence of seedlings, they are thinned out for the first time, and in the phase of 3-4 real leaves - repeatedly, leaving the strongest seedlings at a distance of about 1 m from each other. In the greenhouse, you can take a smaller distance, about 70 cm.

Planting watermelon seedlings

Using seedlings will help solve the problems of the short warm period necessary for fruit ripening, poor ovary and excess moisture in early summer. In my climatic conditions, the period when the fruit of the watermelon grows (summer) is shorter than the growing season, even in varieties and hybrids with an early ripening period.

Sow in the beginning of May,immediately in separate pots with a capacity of at least 0.3 l, because the watermelon does not tolerate transplanting.

The soil mixture is made up of turf land, sand and peat, taken in equal proportions. For 5 l of the mixture add about 50 g of dolomite flour and potassium sulfate, about 100 g of double, about 50 g of ammonium nitrate.

Before sowing, preferably 30 minutes. warm the seeds in hot water (+50 ... + 55 ° C). Then sprout them in wet sand at a temperature of about + 25 ° C. When the seeds begin to show root buds, plant them in pots, sprinkle with sand, cover with foil and place in a warm place. During the day, the temperature should be around + 25 ° C, and at night it must be reduced to + 20 ° C. Somewhere in a week shoots will appear.

Daylight hours should be at least 12 hours, otherwise the development of seedlings may stop. With a lack of light, seedlings can be extended, so on cloudy days or in a poorly lit room, seedlings need to be illuminated.

When the seedlings already have 3 real leaves, it needs to be fed with mullein and liquid.

AT mid juneyou can plant seedlings in the ground, in a constant sunny place. If you had to relocate it to the garden earlier, when the threat is still relevant, experienced gardeners will help protect the plants.

Watermelon Care

Watermelons love to drink and eat)

Top dressing

When the seedlings begin to form lashes, feed the plants with a solution of mullein (1: 8) or chicken droppings (1:20). At the same time, you need to give the plant and mineral food - perfect.

Next feeding -potassium fertilizers must be given at the time of formation of the ovary.

Watering

The root system of the watermelon is rod-shaped, goes to a depth of more than 1 m, lateral additional roots can occupy a sufficient area in the upper layers of the soil. After planting, you can not water often, but abundantly: 3 buckets per 1 m², and at the time of flowering, watering is carried out at least 2 times a week. During the ripening period, watering is stopped.

The subtlety of growing watermelons is that with a sharp cooling it can become sick and die, for normal development and full fertilization of the ovaries, it needs a temperature of +25 ... + 30 ° С.

Already at + 15 ° C, plant growth slows down, so in unpredictable weather conditions in the middle band, many cover the melon with film. Abundant condensation may form on it from the inside; to remove it, pull gauze under the film or.

Another subtlety of growing watermelons is pollination: if the weather is cloudy, it is more difficult for bees to do their job, so you need to touch the stamens from one flower with two or more pistils on other flowers.

In the southern regions of our country, the tops of shoots are removed: their growth stops, they begin to branch more strongly, the fruits are larger.

Varieties and hybrids of watermelons

In order to somehow sort the varieties of watermelons belonging to one common variety, they were divided into 10 conditional groups distributed geographically:

1. Russian
2. Western European
3. Transcaucasian
4. Asia Minor
5. Indian
6. Afghan
7. Central Asian
8. Far Eastern
9. East Asian
10. American

The varieties of watermelons that are grown here, most often belong to the Russian group, less often - to the Transcaucasian and Central Asian.

When you choose a variety or hybrid for your region, pay attention to the growing season. For cool non-chernozem areas, early varieties are suitable, and for warmer regions, varieties and hybrids with medium and late ripening are good. You also need to look at drought and frost resistance. Surely many will benefit from the personal experience of our readers who successfully grow watermelons in various regions:, and regions, krai,!

"Twinkle"

This variety belongs to the early ripening, it can be grown in the Non-Black Earth region: 71-87 days pass from seedlings to ripening.

Watermelon grade "Spark". Photo from pixabay.com

The shape of the fruit is spherical, weight on average about 2.5 kg. The pulp is bright red, sweet; the peel is thin, black-green. Seeds are small. Sown in the ground from April 20 to May 10. Seedlings - from May 25 to June 10. Landing pattern - 1 mx 0.6 m.

Crimson Sweet

It can be grown under the condition of a short hot summer. From germination to harvest from 60 to 70 days.

Watermelon grade "Crimson Sweet"

Anthracnose resistance is good, powdery mildew is also almost not affected. It will weigh about 3 kg, the taste is full, very sweet.

You can on our market, where the offers of the largest online stores are collected.

Watermelon F1 Emperor's hat 25 rub
Russian vegetable garden

First you need to clearly understand that to grow a high-quality watermelon in the open ground, you need the same high-quality planting material, so buy seeds in places you have tested. If your personal plot is closer to the south of Russia, then you can grow watermelons in open ground, otherwise, most likely, you can’t do without a greenhouse.

Location and soil

It should be a very sunny place with deep water, as the watermelon does not tolerate excessive moisture. The soil is preferably sandy or sandy, light, as the juicy berry picks up from the root system, which penetrates deep into the ground. In heavy soil, the root system of the watermelon is not able to fully develop, but deep loosening it will improve the situation a little. pH 6.5-7.0. Pay attention to the availability, they don’t like their watermelon.

It is good if the predecessor of watermelons was alfalfa or winter wheat. It is impossible to grow watermelons after any gourds or nightshade.

In autumn, the land is fertilized with rotted manure (4-5 kg \u200b\u200bper 1 sq. M). Fresh manure makes the plant vulnerable to fungal diseases.

Preparation of watermelon seeds and sowing in open ground (seedling method of growing watermelons in open ground)

Before sowing in open ground, watermelon seeds need to be warmed up in the sun (right in the bag) for 10 days, so that their temperature reaches 55 ° C, if the seeds are wet, then up to 30 ° C. Then fill them with water and leave for 30 minutes. Those seeds of watermelons that emerge will have to be thrown away; they are not suitable for sowing. Then fill with hot water (50-60 ° C), when the water cools down, drain it and soak until peeling. If the seeds cannot be calcined in the sun, from February onwards, seed is stored near the battery. 3 days before the intended sowing in the morning, prepare a solution of ash (1 part ash to 2 parts water), stir for 12 hours. On the same day in the evening, dip the seeds for 15-20 minutes in a dark potassium permanganate solution, rinse and dip them in the prepared ash solution overnight. Take it out the next morning and dry it.

Watermelon seeds can be sown from the end of April until the middle of June, it all depends on weather conditions, and by what time you want to get the crop. Focus on soil temperature (16 ° C).

Watermelon seeds are sown to a depth of 6-8 cm at the rate of 10 seeds per linear meter, let them be planted denser, because it is not a fact that all seeds will sprout. To obtain large watermelons, fresh seeds are usually taken for sowing, since old seeds will make small watermelons with a large number of flower ovaries on one plant. After sowing, pour the soil with warm water. The first shoots should appear a week after sowing. When the 5th leaf appears, carry out the hilling of the plants, with a careful loosening of the soil. Remember that warm water and the absence of rain are important for watermelons, so shelter should always be at hand. Sometimes, when the fruit reaches 10 cm in diameter, pinching of the main lash is carried out with the removal of all side shoots, then the plant spends all its efforts on the development of the main ovary.

Growing seedlings of watermelons for open ground

It is easy to grow watermelons in open ground and seedlings. To grow watermelon seedlings, use peat-humus pots, this is very convenient because when transplanting seedlings they are not removed from them, they are planted directly in the holes, which means they do not damage the vulnerable root system. If you use plastic cups, the seedlings are removed with a lump of earth, doing this very carefully, without damaging the roots. At the end of April, in peat-humus pots (for each seed a pot) pour 2/3 of the soil mixture from peat, humus and sod land in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Soak the seeds in warm water (up to 50 ° C) for 10 minutes. Now deepen one watermelon seed by 1 cm. As the seedling grows, sprinkle the soil mixture and monitor the room temperature (25-30 °). When the first true leaflet appears, a complex mineral fertilizer is applied, and after 2 weeks, top dressing is repeated. When you notice that the leaves of watermelon seedlings have begun to touch each other, open the pots. Watermelon seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground at the age of 30 days, at this point the plant should have about 5 true leaves. A week before transplanting watermelon seedlings into the open ground, harden the plants (in the afternoon lower the temperature to 17 ° C, and at night to 12-15 ° C.

Immediately before planting, the seedlings are fertilized, about 2 kg of compost with abundant watering are introduced into each well. Watermelon seedlings are planted in open ground in holes on ridges according to the scheme 140x70 or 140x140, deepened by 8-10 cm in the resulting slurry, but so that the root neck is 1-2 cm above the surface of the comb. If 2 plants are planted in one hole, so that they do not touch each other, spread the lashes in different directions. Fill the pits with dry soil, then the crust will not form.

In central Russia, choose varieties of watermelons for growing in open ground with the earliest ripening and small sizes.

Outdoor Watermelon Care

Watering is very moderate, especially during the ripening period, reduce it to a minimum. 14 days after planting watermelons in a permanent place, add a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g of the drug per bucket of water per 1 bush 2 liters of solution). During the budding period, top dressing is repeated.

Only 2-6 ovaries are left on the bush. Each time after moistening the soil, loosening is carried out until the foliage closes. In windy weather, watermelon whips are sprinkled with moist soil, and during the period of possible frosts, plants are covered with non-woven material.

Place foil or any other non-rotting material under the plants so that the moisture from which the fruits can begin to deteriorate can not spoil the crop.

Flip watermelons regularly to ripen evenly.

Pay attention to the fruits, if one of the berries began to grow strenuously, and the others lag behind in development and turn yellow, then additional nutrition is required.

Watermelon picking

In August, there is an intensive ripening of watermelons, so their readiness for collection can be determined by a set of signs:

• glossy surface;
• drying of the bract;
• there are no hairs on the peduncle;
• when tapping the berries a dull sound is heard.

We suggest you watch a video on how watermelons of the varieties Charleston Gray and Orange King are grown from soaking seeds to harvesting.

If you adhere to certain rules, you can get a good crop of watermelons in your garden or in the country. This culture requires a long and warm summer. Watermelons can be planted in open ground in all regions of Russia, with the exception of Siberia.

Care for striped berries should include watering, thinning, top dressing, loosening the soil and pruning. Watermelons are susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, olive spotting, rot. In case of infection, watermelons are treated with fungicidal preparations.

Features of growing different varieties

The birthplace of the plant is Africa. The culture belongs to the Pumpkin family. The stems of a watermelon are thin, branching strongly. They are curly or creeping. In length, they can reach 4 m. Young leaves have a dense pile. Then they become rough, hard, have an egg-shaped triangular shape. In length from 7 to 23 cm. Inflorescences are female, male and hermaphroditic. They have the shape of a boat. A fruit is a berry with lots of seeds. The pulp is usually pink or red, and the outer shell is green (usually with light stripes).

There are many varieties of watermelon, but all of them are conditionally divided into 2 types - woolly watermelon and African tsamma melon (wild species).

All varieties are divided into 3 groups.

The precocious include:

• Skorik.
• Victoria.
• Twinkle.
• Dolby.
• Stabolite.
• Jenny.

Mid-season are considered:

• Ataman.
• Sluggard.
• Top gun.
• Atey.
• Dumara.

The later ones include:

• Spring.
• Icarus.

At present, even varieties have been developed in which the fruits have a lemon taste and the flesh is yellow. There are also hybrids with black peel.

In the suburbs you can grow the following varieties:

1. 1. Skorik. The fruit in the form of a ball weighing no more than 3 kg.
2. 2. A twinkle. Harvest stable but small. Usually the weight is up to 2 kg.
3. 3. Crimson Sweet. Translated as "raspberry sugar." Among the ripening varieties, the fruits are the largest - up to 8 kg.
4. 4. Ledgebock. Fruits up to 4 kg. They are distinguished by a rather long keeping time - up to 3 months. Thanks to this, you can enjoy such a watermelon even on New Year's Eve.

In Siberia, you can grow watermelons only in greenhouses. They must be strong. Suitable polycarbonate or glass. In addition, another feature of growing watermelons in Siberia is that only the seedling method is used here, and you can not put seeds in open ground.

The most suitable varieties of watermelon for Siberia are as follows:

1. 1. Chill. It withstands low temperatures. The variety is early ripe. The growing season takes no more than 100 days. Fruits by weight up to 7 kg. The pulp is juicy and sweet. Another advantage is the long storage period of the berry - up to 1 year. Have a baby has good transportability.
2. 2. Ultra early. Such a variety is considered quite early. Its growing season lasts up to 2.5 months. The pulp in the berries is sugar. They weigh 4-5 kg.
3. 3. Photon. This is a mid-early variety. It takes 80-100 days to mature. The plant is not demanding on the soil, it is resistant to diseases, the number of seeds in the berry is small, and the flesh is tender. The weight of the fetus is 3-6 kg.
4. 4. Charleston Gray. The variety is recognizable by the elongated shape of large fruits. They weigh up to 10 kg. The culture is unpretentious in care.
5. 5. Siberian Lights. This variety is bred specifically for areas with harsh climatic conditions. The plant is resistant to low temperatures, lack of lighting and drought. Culture almost never suffers from Fusarium. Berry bark is dark, without stripes. Seeds are few. The weight of the fetus is up to 4 kg.
6. 6. Siberian Giant. This is another variety that is bred for northern latitudes. It is characterized by frost resistance, large size (the fruit weighs up to 7 kg), long shelf life.
7. 7. Ultra-precocious. The fruits are stored for a long time. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. Culture is unpretentious in leaving.

Landing rules

Watermelons can be bred through seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for regions with warm climatic conditions.

Sowing seeds should be carried out in spring as follows:

1. 1. Select a site. On it the soil should have time to warm up to 13 0 C.
2. 2. Soak the seeds in clean water until the sprouts hatch.
3. 3. Make holes on the plot. In depth, they should be 10 cm. The distance between the pits should be 1 m.
4. 4. Place fertilizer in the well. It is recommended to mix humus with 1 tsp. ammofoski and 1 tbsp. l wood ash.
5. 5. Put the seeds there and sprinkle with a substrate.

The first sprouts usually appear after 1.5-2 weeks. If planting watermelon seeds in open ground in regions with a cold climate, you must wait until the end of May or early June. You can still plant under the film - a kind of greenhouse. In this case, the crop is received much earlier. Some people prefer to cover the space between the holes with black film. This attracts the sun's rays, prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Another method is seedling. It is suitable for northern regions.

Landing is as follows:

1. 1. Properly prepare the substrate. It is recommended to mix peat, fine sand and turf soil.
2. 2. Pick up the pots. They should be large and wide. At the bottom you need to make holes to drain excess water.
3. 3. Place the watermelon seeds in special containers. This is recommended at the end of spring. Keep containers in a warm place with a temperature of about 30 0 C.
4. 4. Take care of the sprouts. Periodically water the seedlings. It is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the seedlings. If necessary, you need to turn on additional lamps to improve lighting.
5. 5. Conduct hardening. This should be done 2 weeks before planting the sprouts in the open ground. They need to get used to such conditions. To do this, the container with planting material should be taken out for 1-2 hours on the street or on the balcony. Gradually you need to increase the interval - add an hour every day.

Mandatory is the preliminary preparation of the site before moving the seedlings to the open ground. The soil should be well-heated, loosened. The place should be chosen with protection from strong winds and drafts. Watermelon seedlings feel best in those areas where legumes, alfalfa, and cabbage were previously grown. You should not choose a place where eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, and bell pepper used to grow. Ideal option is sandy or sandy soil. It is necessary to add potassium compounds and superphosphate to it. If the soil is too heavy, then fine river sand is added to it.

Planting watermelon sprouts in open ground is as follows:

1. 1. Dig holes. The distance between them should be 1-1.3 m. Between the rows should be left 1.5-2 m. Sprouts are recommended to be staggered.
2. 2. Deepen the seedlings into the holes and sprinkle with a substrate. Shoots with leaves should remain on top.
3. 3. Pour sand near the seedlings. It will prevent a disease like root rot.
4. 4. Water the seedlings.

In the future, it remains only to care for the culture.

The nuances of care

Care for watermelon is as follows:

1. 1. Thinning sprouts. As soon as they appear, part needs to be pulled out - only weak or sick. If healthy seedlings sprouted too close to each other, then they can be planted in different places.
2. 2. Watering. It should be timely and regular, once a week. For 1 square. m lot relies on 3 liters of water. It should be poured not only under the root of the plant, but also in the places between the rows. It is best to use rain or standing water at room temperature. During the heat it is required to water the crop twice a week. When the fruits begin to appear, watering must be gradually reduced, and 2 weeks before the berries are picked, it is completely stopped.
3. 3. Loosening the soil. This must be done the day after watering. Thanks to loosening the soil, the roots gain access to oxygen. In parallel, weeds can be removed. Grass is not dangerous for watermelon, as its root system is quite ramified. Weeding should be done carefully so as not to damage it.
4. 4. Feeding. The first time it should be carried out 2 weeks after planting the crop. To do this, use chicken droppings, mullein or ammonium nitrate. As for the last substance, you will need 20 g of product per 2 liters of water. This is enough for one bush. If you use mullein, you will need to prepare a solution in a ratio of 1:10. When applying chicken droppings, a solution of 1:10 is required. For each bucket of such solutions it is supposed to add another 15 g of double superphosphate and the same amount of calcium chloride. The second time feeding is necessary when the fruits begin to set. In this case, it is recommended to use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. You can mix 4 g of calcium chloride and ammonium nitrate with 3 g of double superphosphate. This is enough for 1 bush. Fertilizers are supposed to be applied in powder form, but then you need to water the culture. The mixture can be dissolved in water.
5. 5. Cropping. On one bush you need to leave no more than 5-6 fruits. They should be the largest and healthiest in appearance. The rest will have to be cut, otherwise all the fruits will not be able to fully develop.

As for disease, the watermelon suffers from the following:

1. 1. Powdery mildew. A whitish-gray coating appears on the leaves.
2. 2. Peronosporosis. Also called downy mildew. Not only a gray coating appears on the sheets, but also yellow spots.
3. 3. Anthracnose. Pink-yellow pads form on the leaves.
4. 4. Olive spotting. Irregular spots appear on the leaves and stems. The latter also become corrugated.
5. 5. Bacteriosis. Oily patches appear on leaves and stems.
6. 6. Rot. It happens root, black, white and gray. The reason is the fungus.
7. 7. Cucumber mosaic. The disease is not cured. A peculiar ornament appears on the leaves.

Although watermelon is considered an unpretentious crop, with improper care, such diseases develop quite quickly. Fungicides cope with fungal infections. From bacterial and viral plants can not be saved. Of the insects, watermelons are dangerous scoops, wireworm and gourd aphids. From them insecticides help.

You can try to grow watermelons for years, but tasty ripe fruits work out only for those who know the characteristics of the culture. From the article you will learn about the nuances of agricultural technology of this thermophilic plant.

Planting watermelons

Planting watermelons begins when the soil warms up to 15-17 ° C. On light soils, the seeds are planted to a depth of 6-9 cm, and if the seeds are small - to a depth of 4-6 cm. Each plant should have 1-6 square meters of area - this depends on the variety, soil type and climate.

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked for 24 hours in room temperature water so that the seedlings appear amicably and quickly.

In the greenhouse

In polycarbonate greenhouses, watermelons can create more comfortable conditions than in the open. Sometimes watermelons in greenhouses are grown in a vertical culture, on trellises. You need to set up the supports in advance, even before sowing.

Before planting, the soil is dug along with fertilizers. Wells are marked at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The beds are shed with water heated to 25 degrees and above. Two seeds are planted in each hole to a depth of 5-6 cm and covered with a film on top.

No care is required in the first week after sowing. When the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 30 degrees, the structure will have to be aired. Further care for plants in a greenhouse does not differ from care in open ground.

In the open ground

For planting watermelons choose a sunny place. To plants got more summer heat, it is worth planting them early. To do this, watermelons are grown seedlings or pre-heated for several days, the beds, covering them with a black plastic wrap and pouring hot water.

The planting pattern of watermelons in open ground depends on the length of the lashes of this variety. The optimal distance between the holes:

• short-braided and bush varieties (Bonta, Coral, Gift of the sun, Eureka) - 70x70 cm;
• medium-varieties (Astrakhan, Bedouin, Krimstar, Ogonyok, Shuga Baby) - 80x80 cm;
• long-walled varieties (Pamyat Kholodova, Boston, Viking, Sprinter) - 150x100 cm.

You can protect delicate plants from the cold with the following technique: put a cut-off five-liter plastic bottle on each seedling, and cover the entire garden with a film on top of the arches. Double shelter can save from fairly strong frosts. In the middle lane under the double shelter, watermelons can be sown not in late May, as usual, but in the first half of the month. Under plastic caps, plants are kept until mid-June and removed when the leaves become crowded.

Watering

Watermelon is drought tolerant. Its roots have a high sucking power and are able to absorb moisture from the soil, even if there is little of it. In addition, plants store water in juicy stems and fruits and can use it in critical periods.

However, moderate irrigation in the first half of the growing season will benefit plants. The first watering is carried out about a week after emergence, the water should be warm. During fruiting, watering is not necessary. With irrigation, watermelons significantly increase the yield.

How to fertilize

Watermelon does not need additional fertilizing if it is good to fill the soil before sowing, making a half bucket of humus and a half-liter can of ash for each square meter for digging. In each well, one tablespoon of azofoska is additionally sprinkled, mixed well with soil, watered, and then either seeds are sown or seedlings are planted.

Watermelon needs trace elements. Plants will be grateful for feeding micronutrients on leaves with an interval of 2 weeks.

At night, watermelons should not be cold. In the cold, the plant stops working roots, and nature arranged it so that the fruits of watermelons grow at night. If the night promises to be cold, they put a film on the bed.

Watermelons are watered very carefully, from a hose or bucket, by flooding, trying not to wet the leaves and fruits.

Watermelons have an increased need for phosphorus, and of potash fertilizers, they prefer chlorine-free.

The culture is very susceptible to powdery mildew and anthracnose. For prevention, it is enough to spray the lashes with Bordeaux liquid once before flowering.