Grafting and grafting of fruit trees One of the important agricultural techniques in horticulture is grafting and re-grafting of fruit trees.
Grafting is one of the most common and fastest methods of vegetative (asexual) reproduction of fruit plants, the varietal characteristics of which are not preserved in most cases when propagated by seeds.
Grafting in horticulture is the transfer of a part of one plant of a cuttings or buds (scion) to another plant (stock) for their mutual accretion.
Therefore, the grafted fruit tree consists of two parts: a cultivar scion and a rootstock grown from a seed or a rooted cut. The aboveground part belongs to the graft, and the underground part (the base of the stump and the root system) belongs to the rootstock. When growing together, the rootstock and the scion form a single organism and mutually influence each other.
When re-grafting into the crown of adult trees, not only the root system, but also the entire part of the tree below the grafting site, belongs to the under-howl.
Grafting allows you to multiply any variety without changing its qualities. The natural way of plant propagation by sowing seeds does not always fully convey the beneficial characteristics of the mother plant. It is used to obtain wild animals (rootstocks), that is, material for grafting, as well as in breeding for breeding new varieties.
Seedlings grafted with a cultivar give high yields of good fruits. Therefore, the grafting is called ennobling or cultivation of the fruit tree.
In the old garden there are trees that need to be planted with the best varieties or the missing pollinator varieties. If there are uncultivated seedlings in the garden, then by grafting them you can turn them into cultivated trees of good varieties.
In such gardens, trees with crooked trunks, one-sided or ugly crowns can be found. They can be corrected only by vaccination. By grafting into the crown, they test the qualities of new varieties and determine the merits of seedlings with cultural characteristics, when they cannot grow them on their own. By grafting overgrown wilds, we can get stable, durable and fruitful trees that start bearing fruit earlier.
Grafting on dwarf rootstocks, we can speed up the fruiting of the tree and create dwarf trees.
Grafting can change the natural appearance of the tree, increasing the strength of the crown of this variety.
By grafting a part of the root, you can get layering and root cuttings of those breeds and varieties that by their nature are very weak or even do not root at all.
Grafting allows you to correct mechanical damage to trees caused by rodents and sunburn.
The grafting is based on the tree's ability to overgrow its wounds thanks to the increased activity of the exposed cambium due to the nutrients found both in the rootstock and in the scion. Cambial tissue in an exposed or wounded place begins to produce an influx (callus) from the side of both the scion and the rootstock. These counter influxes grow together, after which common sap-conducting tissues are formed.
Before fusion, the scion lives off the supply of nutrients in its cells and part of them is spent on the formation of an influx. He gets moisture from the stock. That is why for a successful grafting you need to apply a tight binding and cover the grafting site (with cuttings grafting) with garden putty.
Fruit trees with a healthy trunk and intact branches can be re-grafted no more than 25 years of age.
Trees older than 10 years are not re-grafted immediately, but within two years: in the first year, half of the branches, and in the second the rest. Up to 10 years of age, a tree can be grafted in one year.
Rootstocks for fruit trees In grafting, the stock is essential. Through the root system of the rootstock, nutrition and water supply from the soil to the tree are provided, and the scion supplies the rootstock with assimilation products produced by the leaves of the tree. This leads to the mutual influence of the rootstock and the scion.
The stability of the tree, its durability, general development, attitude to the soil and even yield largely depend on the stock. Therefore, the rootstocks must be frost-resistant, resistant to excessive and insufficient moisture, well adapted to the natural climatic conditions of a given area and firmly grow together with the varieties grafted to them (compatibility).
In the practice of gardening, there are many examples when some varieties of fruit have poor adhesion (incompatibility) with certain rootstocks and break off from them even during the fruiting period. To eliminate this deficiency, trees are preliminarily grafted with those varieties that grow well on these rootstocks, and a different variety is grafted onto them above the first grafting.
To obtain rootstocks, local seed material is used. The rootstock must propagate well by seed or vegetatively, have a strong root system, grow well with the varieties grafted to them and ensure the successful development of plants.
The rootstocks, according to the strength of growth of the varieties grafted on them, are divided into vigorous and low-growing (semi-dwarf, dwarf), by the method of reproduction into seed and vegetative, and by origin into wild and cultivated forms.
Not only certain species of fruit trees, but sometimes even their varieties require certain rootstocks. For apple trees, the best rootstocks from cultivated varieties are seedlings of Antonovka, Anis and local resistant varieties.
To obtain rootstocks, you can use a wild forest apple and seedlings of some local semi-cultivated apple trees. Grafted varieties are perfectly accepted on them, and as a result, fruitful, durable trees are obtained.
A good stock for an apple tree is a Chinese tree, or a plum apple tree (selected forms with a non-falling cup on the fruit).
Kitayka has high frost resistance. Its seedlings do not need picking and develop a rich root system.
When growing dwarf fruit trees for rootstocks, they take a weakly growing paradise apple tree, which is propagated by layering. Trees grafted on them are distinguished by their short stature, early fruiting and bountiful harvests of fruits with high taste and good appearance. Semi-dwarf trees can be obtained by using stronger dusens.
For pears, the best rootstocks are forest and Ussuri pear seedlings. The trees on these rootstocks are characterized by winter hardiness and longevity.
For mountain ash, seedlings of common mountain ash serve as rootstocks.
Seedlings of Vladimirskaya, Korostynskaya and other local varieties and forms, or root suckers from them, are considered good rootstocks for cherries in the North-Western zone.
Trees grafted onto the seedlings of this cherry reach full development. The rootstocks for cherries in the North-West zone, as well as for cherries, are Vladimirskaya seedlings and local varieties and forms of cherries.
Plum seedlings and root suckers are good rootstocks for plums.
In the south of the North-West zone, cherry plum can be used as a rootstock for plums. The stock for dwarf plums is the blackthorn, which has the greatest winter hardiness.
Harvesting and storage of cuttings The development of a fruit tree depends on the condition of the rootstock and scion. Therefore, appropriate requirements are imposed on the scion, as well as on the stock. A stalk (scion) taken for grafting from a healthy tree not damaged by diseases and pests must be strong, well ripe.
Ripe shoots should be taken from the outer parts of the crown of mature trees, well illuminated by the sun. These shoots are characterized by short internodes (spaces between buds) and highly developed eyes in the leaf axils.
They have a high ability to assimilate and absorb organic matter, which the cutting needs for its fastest growing together with the stock and the formation of new shoots.
Cuttings for grafting are cut from fruiting trees tested for yield and grade.
Timely preparation of cuttings for grafting is of great importance. Cuttings should be taken only from pure-variety uterine plantations and from trees with high yields and stability. Cuttings should be 30-40 cm long, with well-developed growth buds. Thin, poorly formed shoots with underdeveloped buds are not suitable for grafting. In this case, it is better to use cuttings from the growth of the previous year, in which there are growth buds.
For winter and spring grafting, cuttings are prepared in the fall, after leaf fall, but before the onset of large frosts. After winters with low frost, they can be harvested in the spring, before the buds swell.
The harvested cuttings are stored in the garden tied in small bunches, which are folded in a row at small intervals and sprinkled with earth. Temporarily (until spring), the cuttings can be stored in the snow, and when the ground thaws, dig in it. It is advisable to keep the snow as long as possible at the place where the cuttings are dug. This can be achieved by digging in the cuttings from the northern side of a building, where the snow lasts longer and the water does not stagnate. It is only necessary to protect the cuttings from damage by mice.
In nurseries, prepared cuttings for winter grafting are tied in bundles (100 pcs.), Labels with the names of varieties are tied to them and placed in boxes. In boxes, cuttings are sprinkled with wet sawdust and stored in the fresh air, covered with a layer of snow 50-70 cm.
Cuttings, which will be used for indoor grafting in winter, can be stored in cellars at a low temperature (from 0 to -3 °). The cuttings are placed in boxes with wet sand or sawdust and covered with a metal mesh from mice.
When harvesting cherry cuttings, it must be borne in mind that flower buds are abundant on its annual shoots. For both budding and grafting by cutting, you need to take longer shoots from young trees, on which there are fewer flower buds.
Tools and materials needed for vaccination The tools used for inoculation are few: budding and copulating knives, crooked garden knife, garden shears (pruning shears), sawmill and hatchet.
A strapping material is used to fasten the grafted parts to the stock. The simplest and most affordable is linden bast. Before use, the sponge should be cut into ribbons of a certain length, convenient for use (about 40 cm), and tied in bundles.
When tying, the sponge should be somewhat damp, which makes it more elastic. Thin linen or paper packing twine wiped with garden putty is sometimes used as a binding material, as well as electrical tape, or adhesive tape, which makes it possible to do without putty.
Currently, synthetic PVC and polyethylene films are widely used for strapping. They are easy to work with, tightly fitting the cutting and create an impervious layer for air and moisture, which ensures good fusion of the cutting with the stock. For strapping, the film is cut into strips 1 cm wide and 30-35 cm long.
When using the film, the grafting sites are not covered with garden putty. After tying with bast or twine (threads), all grafted cuttings, with the exception of budding, are covered with garden putty (garden pitch). It protects the grafted cuttings from waterlogging and at the same time from drying out, creates favorable conditions for the coalescence of cuttings with rootstocks.
Garden putty usually contains dry tree resin or rosin. According to their physical properties and nature of application, garden putties are divided into: cold-liquid, used in a cold state; heat-liquid, requiring heating before use; firm, kneading before use. Here are some recipes for garden putty.
For heat-liquid: a) 4 parts by weight of wood resin or rosin, 1 part by weight of natural drying oil; b) 1 part dry wood resin or rosin, 1 part wax or paraffin, 1 part vegetable oil or unsalted fat.
For a cold liquid: a) 400 g of tree resin, 50 g of alcohol (denatured), 1-2 tablespoons of vegetable oil; b) 400 g of rosin or wood resin, 200 g of wax or paraffin, 100 g of unsalted fat, 50 g of alcohol (can be denatured).
For hard: 2 parts wax or paraffin, 1 part hard resin or rosin, 1 part unsalted animal fat.
When preparing garden putties, the following rules must be observed: rosin or dry wood resin (as it is more refractory) is heated first, and then wax or paraffin is put (it is better to grind these substances). When rosin and wax form a homogeneous mass while stirring, add fat or oil and, stir well, remove from heat; if alcohol is a part of the putty, then the mass removed from the fire is cooled slightly and, stirring constantly, it is poured in small portions; heated rosin or dry resin is mixed hot with drying oil. Instead of hard garden putty, you can use plasticine or a combination window putty (non-drying).
Heat-liquid and cold-liquid putties are evenly applied to the harness and wounds with a brush or spatula, and hard garden varnish with hands. Well-cooked hard garden pitch does not stick to fingers, does not melt in the sun, and sticks firmly in place. Sometimes they use strips of strong paper, greased with a special garden varnish (400 g of rosin, 100 g of wax and 800 g of unsalted ghee), which at the same time replace the putty and strapping.
Heat-liquid putty, when used, is heated with a lamp or hot water. Heat-liquid and cold-liquid putties are used in early spring, when work with solid putty is difficult due to low temperatures.
Vaccination methods There are different methods of vaccination. They can be divided into two main groups: peephole (kidney) grafting and cuttings (shoot) grafting. Depending on the purpose of the grafting, different parts of the plant, the root, stump, trunk, crown, can serve as the grafting site on the rootstock. At the location of the scion on the rootstock, all grafts can be divided into top and side grafts.
Horse grafting is carried out with cutting off the top of the wild. This includes grafting into cleft, bark, copulation.
Lateral grafting is done on the side of the scion trunk without cutting off the top, or with cutting it off, but leaving the thorn. Lateral grafting are budding, lateral incision grafting, rapprochement grafting. All methods of vaccination by the time of their implementation can be divided into spring, summer and winter.
Spring vaccinations are performed in April May. Scion shoots develop during the coming summer. When grafted in the second half of summer, the scion grows well with the stock, but the shoots develop during the next summer.
In addition to dormant bud grafting, this includes grafting with a dormant cuttings and cuttings taken directly from the tree. Winter vaccinations include those that are performed in winter (indoors) during a dormant period. The rootstock is the roots of wild birds dug out in the fall or parts of the roots, and in the grafted state they are preserved until spring planting in the cellar.
In winter, vaccination can be done in all ways, except for the bark vaccine. According to the technique of execution, all methods of inoculation can be divided into budding (peephole grafting), grafting with a handle for the bark, copulation, grafting into a side cut, grafting into a split (into a split) and grafting by approach (ablating).
Budding (eye grafting) is one of the main methods of grafting wild birds in a nursery. Almost all species of fruit trees are grafted with an eye (bud).
This method of grafting has many advantages: it is performed faster, the wild is less damaged than with other types of grafting, the scion material is economically consumed (4-5 eyes are cut from one cutting, which can be used to inoculate 4-5 rootstocks), in case of failure, the stock is saved for later vaccinations. In addition to the main purpose of grafting young wild birds in a nursery, budding can be used to domesticate overgrown wild birds in the nursery or garden with strong boles and ready crowns.
It is a valuable material for obtaining winter-hardy and durable fruit trees. Only those trees are suitable for budding, in which the branches forming their crowns are not thicker than 1 cm (grafting with a cuttings is used for the thickest ones). Preparation of such rootstocks for budding should be started in spring. All branches are removed from the lower part of the trunk, turning it into a stem, and 5-7 main branches are left in the crown, growing in different directions.
The lower branches are grafted at a greater distance from the base than the upper ones. In the spring of next year, the branches are cut on a thorn, to which cultural shoots are tied. Those branches on which budding was unsuccessful should be grafted or cut out in the spring. The conditions that determine the success of budding are sufficient maturation of annual shoots, which serve as grafting material, and good separation of bark from wood on the stock. They start budding when the young shoot has not yet finished its growth, but its wood in the middle part has already grown stronger. The cuttings have strong shoots with well-ripened and well-formed buds (eyes) 25-30 cm long. The cuttings taken from the tree should be mature by the time of grafting. For testing, the handle is brought to the ear and bent with fingers. A mature stalk crackles with such bending, which is explained by the breakage of lignified wood cells. For budding, take the best eyes located in the middle part of the shoot.
Cuttings for budding are prepared in the morning. Immediately, the unripe herbaceous top and leaf blades are removed from them, leaving petioles 10-15 mm long, after which they are stored in a cool or shady place, covered with wet moss, damp grass, burlap or matting.
It is desirable that the cuttings be harvested in such an amount that can be consumed within 1-2 days. During budding, the cuttings are placed in a bucket filled with water with lumps.
(Fig. 13)

Preparation of the cutting for budding: 1 - young shoot (dashes show the cutting points of the cutting); 2 - a stalk prepared for budding.

The exact timing of budding cannot be established, since the maturation of wild boar and cuttings depends on local climatic conditions. The approximate time for budding in the northwestern regions is at the end of July and the first half of August.
Usually budding lasts 2-3 weeks. In the North-West zone, it is impossible to be late with budding. It is better to do it earlier than later.
(Fig. 14)

Cut-off details and insert of the shield during budding: 1 - knife movement line; 2 - flap cutting line; 3 - cutting the flap; 4 - T-shaped cut and flap insert.

In case of unsuccessful budding, it can be repeated if the bark on the rootstock is still separating.
In the rain, it is impossible to oculate, but on hot days it is better to oculate in the morning and evening. Budding technique. With this method of grafting, the bud (eye) is separated from the surrounding bark and part of the wood (shield) from the one-year shoot and transferred to the stock.
Budding can be done in a bark manner. The most common is budding for bark with wood.
To cut the flap, the stalk is taken in the left hand with the butt towards itself, the knife is brought 1.5-2 cm above the kidney, it is placed across the stalk and slightly cut into the wood.
(Fig. 15)

After that, the knife is brought 0.5 cm above the transverse incision and with a smooth movement, gradually deepening the knife, bring it to the kidney, and then gradually bring the knife to the surface at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the eye and cut off the shield from above. Sometimes the shields are removed in the opposite direction from the butt to the top. The total length of the flap is sufficient 2.5-3 cm.
The removed shield with the left hand is taken by the petiole. After that, on the bark of the game below, at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground, transverse and then longitudinal cuts are made in the form of the letter "T". With a knife bone, they slightly separate the bark from the wood and push the shield with the kidney from above until it reaches the end of the cut.
Thus, the shield extends behind the bark and adjoins the wild along its entire length. When the entire shield fits behind the bark, it is slightly squeezed from the sides and fed upward by the petiole. You can first make an incision on the bark of the stock, and then remove the shield, which immediately, without drying out, falls into place.
After the introduction of the eye under the bark of the wild, the place of budding is tightly tied with a washcloth or plastic wrap, and the kidney should remain free of strings. The harness should be applied from top to bottom, covering the cross section with it. The end of the harness coincides with the lower part of the longitudinal incision on the bark or slightly lower and is pulled once twice under the last turn of the harness.
For greater survival, budding should be carried out with two eyes from different sides of the wild. Both eyes are tied at the same time. No putty is used for budding. With the strapping of the grafted peephole, budding is considered complete.
For stone fruits (cherries), grafting of a shield without wood is used, which increases the area of \u200b\u200baccretion and improves the survival of the shield. Budding without wood is successfully carried out only during the period of full sap flow, when the insertion of the shields behind the bark is not difficult and the shields are easily removed from the cuttings. Grafting of cuttings for the bark. Bark grafting, or grafting between bark and wood, is the most common graft grafting and is used where there are overgrown wilds after unsuccessful budding. Overgrown wilds, to which budding is not applicable, are grafted into the bark. Bark grafting is also widely used for re-grafting.
Only such trees or individual branches, the thickness of which is much greater than the thickness of the cutting, can be grafted by the bark with a graft. Inoculation with a cuttings for the bark begins with the beginning of sap flow and continues until the beginning of intensive movement of the juice.
Cuttings for grafting are prepared in advance. They should be completely healthy and at rest or in a state of awakening. Grafted cuttings can have from one to several buds.
Grafting behind the bark of the cuttings includes grafting with a bridge, used to rescue trees damaged by frost, sunburn and rodents, as well as grafting with germinating seed. The latter is used in the development of new varieties so that the stock can influence the young organism of the seedling (scion), which develops from the seed, in order to acquire the beneficial properties inherent in the stock of the mentor. The stock must have stable, beneficial traits.
Vaccination technique. With an ordinary graft for the bark, the stock is cut into a stump with a saw or pruner. The cut is cleaned with a garden knife. On the hemp, from the cut down to a length of about 2.5 cm, the bark is incised to the wood, then the bark incised from above is slightly turned off on both sides with the end of a knife.
After that, take a stalk and make an oblique cut up to 3 cm long at its lower end. The stalk prepared for grafting should have 2-3 well-developed buds, the rest of it is cut off (above the kidney). The resulting stalk is inserted behind the bark.
An improved method of this grafting is that, after a vertical incision, the rootstock bark is slightly peeled from above on only one side. On the handle, as with ordinary grafting, an oblique cut is made, at the lower end of which the bark is removed to the wood for better contact with the stock. Then a narrow strip of bark is removed on the handle on one of the cut edges for its entire length from the side that will adjoin the inseparable part of the rootstock bark. This method ensures better fusion between the rootstock and the cutting.
After the stalk is inserted into the bark, the grafting site is tied and, together with the rootstock stump and the upper cut on the stalk, are covered with garden putty or plasticine. If the stump is thick, then it is not covered with a circle, but only from the side of the graft and from above. When a saddle-shaped cut is made on the handle, with which the handle, when inserted behind the bark, firmly sits on the rootstock stump, the grafting is called for the bark with the saddle.
In one stump, depending on its thickness, 2-3 cuttings or more can be grafted behind the bark, using one strapping common to all cuttings. Grafting with a graft on the bark can be performed without a longitudinal section of the bark. After cutting the stock on a stump and cleaning the cut with a knife, the cuttings with the processed lower part are inserted behind the bark to the saddle, and if it is not there, then so that the upper part of the oblique cut is 0.5-1 cm higher than the hemp.
(Fig. 16)

In addition to grafts with a full cut of the top of the stock, there is a lateral grafting behind the bark leaving a thorn, in which at a certain distance from the ground a wood undercut is made on the stock in the form of a saddle or a shaped incision on its bark, as in budding.
(Fig. 17)

For the separated part of the bark, a stalk with a saddle or with a regular oblique cut is inserted. This grafting can be done with one-bud cuttings or with many.
Sometimes a shield is inserted into the shaped incision on the bark, carrying the shoot.
Overgrown wilds, which have their own crowns, are grafted into the bases of skeletal branches or at some distance from them.
(Ill. 18, 19)

If the grafted trees have already reached fruiting, then the grafting should be done not in one year, but in two or three, so as not to sharply disrupt the ratio of the crown of the tree to the root system. The inoculation usually begins from the top and ends with the lower branches.
The branches at the grafting site should not be thicker than 3-4 cm.At this thickness, insert two cuttings. The intermediate thinner branches are left unvaccinated.
In case of circular damage to the bark by rodents or frosts, an auxiliary grafting with a bridge is used to rescue adult trees.
Before inoculation, the damaged area must be protected from drying out, for which purpose it is covered with garden putty, thick paint on natural linseed oil, or wrapped in plastic wrap and tied.
(Fig. 20)

Scheme of grafting the crown of a fruit-bearing tree by cuttings for the bark, leaving unvaccinated branches.

Then, before the start of sap flow from the tree, you need to cut off 2-3 tall annual shoots and bury them in the ground to keep them dormant.
Shoots should be significantly longer than the height of the damaged area. In the absence of such cuttings, you can take cuttings with an increase of the previous year, only so that they are not branched.
(Fig. 21)

With the beginning of sap flow above and below the wound, longitudinal cuts up to 4 cm are made on the healthy bark, and the bark is separated from the wood using the bone of the budding knife. After that, they take the harvested shoots, remove the buds on them and make oblique cuts at both ends in the same way as when grafting for the bark. The length of the cutting should be slightly greater than the distance between the ends of the longitudinal cuts on the tree trunk.
It is desirable that the stalk inserted into the cuts for the bark be slightly curved outward. After the cuttings are inserted, the grafting site is tied tightly and covered with putty. When grafting with a bridge, instead of strapping, nails are sometimes used to fasten the cuttings to the wood of the affected tree.
To save trees damaged by rodents, instead of shoots, you can use roots from the same tree or trees of the same species. The roots should be as even as possible, about 1 cm thick. They grow well with the wood. You can also use top growth or stump growth for this purpose.
Copulation is applicable to thin rootstocks on which other grafting is difficult. This makes it possible to use wilds more quickly and get cultivated trees from them much earlier, which is especially important when breeding new varieties.
Copulation differs sharply from grafting for the bark not only in its techniques, but also in terms of execution time. If the previous grafting can be performed only with good separation of the bark from the wood, then copulation is carried out when the rootstocks are in a state of complete dormancy. This method is usually used when grafting wild birds in early spring before bud break or indoors in winter.
Copulation can be performed before grafting with a cuttings for the bark. It is convenient to apply it to overgrown game, grafting thin branches and thus creating a new cultivated crown with strong fusion. In the garden, copulation begins in early spring, as soon as the temperature conditions allow outdoor work.
Therefore, you should not be late with this vaccination. This is especially important for cherries and sweet cherries, grafting of which before the start of sap flow gives the best results. This grafting is valuable for cherries and sweet cherries when grafting them into the finished crown to thin branches before the start of sap flow. It works just as well on thin wilds, if it is done two weeks before the buds swell.
For thicker branches, copulation into the stock on the side of the stock and into a simple stock with a saddle is well applicable. Using copulation, you can collect many varieties on one tree, grafting them on the ends of thin branches and on shoots, without disturbing the appearance of the crown. Cuttings grafted in advance, before the start of sap flow, are well accepted and can bear fruit the next year. (Fig. 22)

Copulation is of great importance in winter grafting, in which not only wilds of special sowing can be used, but also parts of the roots from the uprooted tree, as well as trimming the roots and roots of old wilds.
Indoor winter grafting is the only one for which the rootstocks are dug out of the ground in autumn in order to graft them in winter and plant again in spring. In winter, when you have free time, you can plant a large number of plants. This is the main advantage of winter vaccination.
This method turned out to be of little use for cherries, but successful for plums. One-year olds of plums take root well, which is associated with active urine formation on the roots of rootstocks, characteristic of plums.
(Fig. 23)

Copulation technique. With a simple copulation on a rootstock and a graft (scion) having the same thickness, oblique cuts of the same length (up to 3 cm) are made. Then the cutting and stock are cut to each other.
After that, a strapping is applied and the place of inoculation is coated with putty.
Cuttings for grafting are taken with 2-3 buds. Another method of this grafting is called improved tongue copulation.
Its advantage lies in the strong connection of the stock with the scion, which is achieved by splitting the tongues on both with the same oblique cuts as with ordinary copulation.
(Fig. 24)

On the oblique cut of the cutting, stepping back 1/3 from the edge of the sharp end, make a split with a knife a little further than the middle of the slanting cut and exactly the same split, observing the same order on the rootstock. After that, the stalk is connected to the stock so that the tongue of one of them goes into the cleft of the other.
When copulating thicker wild animals, contact between the stock and the handle is achieved by grafting into the butt from the side. On the side of the game, a cut of one kind is made (in a simple butt, with a saddle, with tongues or with a ledge). The stalk is also prepared.
(Fig. 25)

When copulating thin rootstocks, almost the same in thickness with cuttings, the cambial layers always coincide. With the same grafting of thicker rootstocks, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the bark in the wild, so that there is no rupture in the cambial layers.
In addition to copulation with a cut of the top of the stock (on a stump), there are types of this inoculation, leaving a thorn, copulating into a simple butt and copulating into a butt with a small cut at the bottom.
In winter, grafting can be performed with all the above copulation methods, in accordance with the thickness of the stock (root), but it is more expedient to use two of them: for thin stocks, improved (with tongues), and for thick stocks in the butt side with tongues.
The rootstocks harvested in the fall are cut along the root collar and the roots are stored in an adapted frost-free room in moist sand.
(Fig. 26)

Long lateral roots are shortened. For grafting, a sufficient length of the root will be 10-12 cm, so the lower part of the root is removed. If the root of the tap structure is well overgrown with lateral roots, then the lower part of the root can also be used for grafting.
In this case, the length of the roots can be reduced to 7 cm. The upper part of the root is cleaned of small roots so that it is smooth and easy to graft. Before grafting, the roots are freed from the ground and washed so that the knives do not blunt and the sections do not become dirty. For convenience of work, thin roots suitable for grafting with an oblique cut must be separated from thicker ones. Inoculated with cuttings with 3-4 buds.
After inserting the cuttings, the grafting sites are tied and washed with garden putty. When wrapping with a film, the coating is not used.
After grafting, the plants are placed in boxes or roots in rows in an inclined position and covered with wet sand, peat or sawdust in such a way that only the upper parts of the cuttings remain unsheltered.
(Fig. 27)

For the first three weeks, boxes with grafted plants are kept in a room with a temperature of 10-12 °. During this time, the stalk grows together with the stock. In the future, the temperature is lowered to 0 +3 and the plants are kept in this position until the start of planting in the nursery.
So that mold does not appear on the grafted plants, charcoal dust is added to the sawdust, and the room is preliminarily fumigated with sulfur.
A good way to store grafted plants in winter, in which their germination is excluded, is storage in the snow. To do this, boxes or baskets with planting material after the accretion of cuttings with rootstocks are taken out of the room and covered with snow. Snow is covered with manure or straw so that it does not melt.
Winter grafting begins in February and continues until March April.
Side cut grafting. This method consists in grafting the cuttings from the side of the rootstock into a cut or into a splint. At the same time, the top of the stock can remain intact or cut into a thorn. Side cut grafting is used on rootstocks of any thickness. When grafted, a high adhesion strength of the scion with the stock is achieved.
They are grafted into the cut: in the winter in the root (indoors), in the spring with a cuttings, in the summer with a cuttings taken directly from the tree, and also by the root to a growing branch or trunk to obtain cuttings and jigs during the spring and summer.
Lateral grafting can be performed with a cuttings with one bud instead of budding, grafting for the bark, copulating, grafting into a split (split) and is indispensable when grafting fruit-bearing branches to the wild and when replacing an aging old crown with a new one. Despite this, side cut grafting is not widely used in manufacturing. It is of interest for amateur gardening (grafting with large branches, hanging cuttings to obtain molded trees and propagation by layering).
Inoculation into the lateral incision with a small cuttings with a scythe and a short wedge is applicable for rootstocks of various thicknesses (before the start of sap flow). It gives strong fusion. It is also used for grafting in fruit-bearing gardens.
Another type of inoculation, characterized by a large cut (splint), can be widely used in practice. For example, summer grafting with a cuttings taken directly from a tree. Green-stick grafting can replace budding.
By grafting branches with developing flower buds, we can get the fruits of the grafted variety the next year. This makes it possible to quickly get acquainted with a new variety, choose a good pollinator, and replenish the collection of varieties.
A fruiting branch, grafted onto a thin and flexible rootstock, can easily be transformed into a stale (creeping) form.
Grafting a branch to the base of a growing tree makes it possible to change the top of a fruit tree that is affected by diseases, has mechanical damage or is destroyed by old age. Using the strong root system of the old tree, you can soon get a new one, which starts bearing fruit early.
For this grafting, you should use branches taken from especially hardy and productive trees that grow in the given garden and have good fruit quality.
Grafting with a hanging cuttings is done with the aim of obtaining low-growing trees on ordinary rootstocks. Trees grafted with hanging cuttings grow well in the first summer. Normal fruiting, depending on the variety, occurs in the 3-4th year. With this inoculation, a wide-branched crown shape is obtained, more extended in width. The bases of the branches of the crown extend straight down from the trunk, and therefore they are insured against breaking off under the weight of the crop. Such a crown in this respect has an advantage over other forms.
By planting wild birds with a hanging cuttings at a short distance from the ground, we can get crowns spread directly above the ground. This makes it possible to use them as "creeping" crowns, which have a positive value in northern gardening. Grafting with a hanging cuttings is also used to obtain wall shaped trees, for which the cuttings are grafted in one plane. The technique of their formation is simple, which is facilitated by the growth of branches to the side.
This makes it possible to use the walls of buildings for planting them with molded trees and have decorative fruit trees.
Fruit trees hardly reproduce by layering, with the exception of dwarf rootstocks. Reproduction by layering can be widely used in home gardening and indoor fruit growing, using parts of the roots of the same plant for grafting. The advantage of this propagation method is that it can be done during the growing season and does not require preliminary harvesting of roots.
In cases where a part of the tree cannot be bent to the ground to obtain cuttings, it is possible to obtain "jig" from it by grafting the root to one of the lower branches or even to the trunk.
(Fig. 28)

Grafting in the zip At high elevations from the ground, you can use a flower pot or box filled with earth.
The lateral grafting is the only grafting that allows fruit trees to be propagated by branches of considerable size.
Vaccination technique.Inoculation in the oblique lateral incision is performed by cuttings with two well-developed buds. It can be done on wilds of various thicknesses and gives good fusion with the stock. It is successfully used for grafting fruit trees.
When grafted into the splint, a straight deep cut is made and cuttings of various sizes are used.
For this grafting, it is more convenient to use a knife with a long blade, sharpened on one side for better cutting into wood. On the rootstock from top to bottom, by moving a knife through the bark into the wood, a splint is made up to 3 cm long. After that, the same cuts are made on a straight wedge on the handle on both sides.
The end of the cutting should end sharply. The stalk prepared in this way is inserted into the slot (splint) to failure so that the cambial layers of the scion and stock are in contact at least on one side, after which the grafting site is tied and covered with putty. The upper transverse cut of the cutting is also smeared. Instead of a washcloth, threads 1.5-2 mm thick or the same paper twine wiped with hard garden putty or plasticine are used. The strapping is not applied entirely, but at intervals of 2-3 mm, which improves the fusion of components. The end of the strapping remains free.
The grafting into the splint gives a very strong fusion. It can be done as a small cuttings with 1-2 buds, and large branches. Accordingly, the length of the splint can vary from 2 to 10 cm.
For summer grafting with a cuttings taken directly from the tree, they use part of last year's shoot with a slight increase in the current year. The leaves and the top of the growth are cut off. When using cuttings directly from a tree, in addition to 2-3 buds on the growth of the last year, the growth of this year, which is beginning to lignify, is still left. The grafting site and the cut of the cutting are covered with putty (plasticine).
During the summer, cuttings grow well with the stock. The upper bud usually sprouts and forms a rosette of leaves or weak growth, but the rest are completely dormant until spring, and then, after trimming the tops, give a strong growth.
Grafting to the base of a growing tree is carried out in early spring before the buds swell. Branches for this take up to 3 liters in length.
When starting to inoculate, it is necessary to clean the trunk of old bark and whitewash from either side to be grafted. On the grafted tree, remove all branches that will interfere with the grafting or shade the scion. The top of the tree is left.
On the lower part of the tree trunk, a splint is made with a large knife to a depth of 10 cm and the wedge-shaped butt of the branch (scion) is inserted into it to failure, controlling at least partial coincidence of the cambial layers by lightly removing the scion away from the trunk and looking into the gap formed.
Having specified the position of the wedge, the branch is attached to the stump with the help of thin nails, under the caps of which small (1 sq. Cm) pieces of birch bark, leather or plywood are strung. The grafting site is covered with solid garden varnish or plasticine. The grafted branch must be tied to the tree.
(Fig. 29)

Summer grafting with a cuttings taken directly from the tree.

The survival rate of grafted branches is related to the humidity of the air in early spring, and therefore, using plastic wrap to cover them, you can get better results of grafting.
Hanging grafting can be started before sap movement and continued until bud break.
The top is pre-cut from the rootstocks.
Grafting is carried out to obtain low wide crowns of molded and creeping trees on ordinary rootstocks.
(Ill. 30, 31)

The second stalk is grafted at the same height on the opposite side of the rootstock and, at the same time as the first, is tied and covered with hard putty or plasticine. The upper cuts of the cuttings are also covered over.
On the same trunk, you can graft a second pair of cuttings slightly lower than the first, or else graft the cuttings with another, imitating the natural arrangement of the branches. It is more convenient to start the vaccination from the top.
To obtain trees in a backyard garden in a shape close to a fan (palmette), cuttings are grafted in pairs on the same line from two sides, keeping a certain distance between them.
When grafting with a hanging cuttings to obtain creeping crowns, the stock can be cut to a height of 40 cm. For this, wilds can be used that are not suitable for obtaining standard crowns. The trees grafted with a hanging cuttings should be sufficiently lit. To prevent breakage, grafted cuttings are tied to a stem.
Root grafting to obtain cuttings can be performed in the spring, when there are good conditions for the growth of the root with the cuttings. Roots for grafting can be harvested in the fall or freshly dug up. Pre-harvested roots must be protected from frost. It is better to take the roots for grafting more fibrous, up to 1 cm thick.
To obtain the branches of branches that are low from the ground, a splint is made on the branches for a length that exceeds the thickness of the root by 2.5 times, from the bottom up from the side facing the ground. The vaccination site is tied and covered with pitch. The root is held by a wooden butt in the previously prepared nutrient soil.
It is possible to obtain cuttings in any part of the crown, if the grafted root is in appropriate conditions in boxes, pots, bundles of birch bark and roofing tar, etc., filled with moist soil.
Parts of the roots 8-10 cm long and about 1 cm thick can be grafted without soil anywhere on the crown on thin branches (up to 1.5 cm) with careful covering with plasticine of both the grafting site and the entire root.
Inoculation in the split (in the split). Inoculation into a split, or into a split, is characterized by cutting off the top of the stock and splitting the hemp, followed by insertion of the graft into the crack.
The cleft inoculation used in the past was of great importance and was called the "clothespin." This is one of the old methods of grafting, d Split grafting is used most often where other grafting methods are of little use due to coarsening of the bark or the crippling of the rootstock by other failed vaccinations.
(Fig. 34)

Grafting for the bark, for example, is possible only with the beginning of sap flow, and grafting into the split can be performed long before that, when there is still no such urgent work, which usually begins with complete thawing of the soil. Cuttings grafted into the cleft before the onset of sap flow develop well in the summer.
Another positive aspect of split grafting is the possibility of using overgrown wilds and fruit trees as rootstocks, where other grafts are less effective due to the poor condition of the rootstock.
Inoculation in the split can be carried out both on a wild game, which is almost equal in thickness to a cutting, and on a rootstock several centimeters thick.
When grafting into a split, larger cuttings are used than when grafting for the bark and when copulating.
Split grafting is most often applied to already relatively mature wild game with a strong root system, therefore this grafting produces resistant cultivated trees that can withstand colder winters.
(Fig. 35)

They start grafting into the split from the second half of March and the stone fruit breeds are grafted first, and the seed breeds after two weeks.
Vaccination technique.Rootstocks intended for grafting into split (split) are cleaned of dirt and excess old bark. The wild birds are cut down on a stump at a height of 10-12 cm from the ground or slightly higher, the cut is cleaned with a garden knife. Along the alleged split, on either side of the game, from the cross section straight down, it is better to make a longitudinal cut in the bark so that the bark hemp does not turn out to be torn when splitting.
After that, a stump is split with a garden knife or a hatchet, and a wooden wedge or blade, available at the end of the hatchet, is inserted into the gap formed so that the gap is open. The gap is widened with a blade by turning the hatchet a quarter turn. When splitting the hemp, you can use a mallet.
Cuttings are taken of various sizes. If the presence of scion material allows, then preferably with 3-5 eyes, not counting the part of the cuttings that will be processed with a blunt wedge. The wedge is introduced in such a way that the cambial layers of the cutting and the wild come together.
The lower part of the cutting is cut into a wedge so as to ensure lateral contact of the cuttings with the rootstock wood and the coincidence of the cambium. A wedge length of 4 cm is sufficient.
On rootstocks with a thickness of 2-3 cm or more, 2 cuttings are usually inserted, one on one and the other side of the split. After the cuttings are inserted, the blade with which the gap widens is removed, and both halves of the hemp will tightly squeeze the cuttings. With such a thickness of the stock, the strapping is almost never used.
When grafting into a split, the use of putty is mandatory. All wounds are covered with it: a gap in the hemp, a cross section of the hemp and a cut above the upper buds of the cuttings. The gap on top is covered with plasticine or solid garden putty.
When grafted into a split with one cuttings, the stump is usually cut off so that one side is higher than the other. The stalk is placed on the higher part of the stump.
When grafted onto thick rootstocks, the number of cuttings per cut can be increased to four. In this case, the stump is split crosswise. Noteworthy is the grafting into a half-split, in which the stump is damaged to a lesser extent than with a complete split.
With a garden knife or a hatchet, with this grafting, the stump is split along the radius only on one side to a length of about 4 cm (without bringing the split to the opposite side).
In addition to the described grafts into a full split through the core of the rootstock or into a half-split along the radius, there are grafts into the split on the side of the hemp
(Fig. 36)