The device of a blind area from paving slabs. Foundation protection - paving slabs blind area

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The blind area is a waterproof stone strip around the building, one edge adjacent to the basement and sloping away from the house, which ensures the drainage of storm and flood waters from the foundation.

Blind area device from paving slabs is very popular

Thus, the blind area is important element construction of a house, the construction of which cannot be neglected. There are several types of blind area, differing from each other in design and materials of execution, but performing one task - to protect the foundation of the house from water. However, if the surface of the structure is properly finished with paving slabs, the blind area can also serve as a pedestrian walkway and decorative element home interior. Knowing the technology of the device of this design, it is easy to make and equip it with your own hands.

Let's break down the full scope of work on the installation of the blind area into stages and consider the technologies that allow you to finish it with paving slabs:

1. Markup.
2. Waterproofing.
3. Installation of borders.
4. Sand pillow.
5. Crushed stone preparation.
6. Reinforcement.
7. Concrete base.
8. Laying tiles.
9. Grouting paving stones.

Markup

The width of the blind area of ​​the house should be 20-30 cm more than the overhang of the roof, but not less than 60 cm. Another 30 cm should be added to this value to install curbs or concrete drainage trays.

In order to correctly project the contour of the roof onto the ground with your own hands, a construction plumb line is lowered to the ground from the stairs attached to the wall of the house and a peg is driven in at the point of contact. From each straight section of the roof, 2 points are projected. These points are transferred from the walls of the house by another 30 cm, pegs are driven in and a control cord is pulled over them.

First you need to decide on the width of the blind area and make the appropriate markings

A project horizontal line of the upper finishing mark of paving slabs is applied to the basement of the building outside along the perimeter. Then, parallel to it, one more line is applied below - the level of pouring the concrete base. The distance between these lines should be equal to the thickness of the tile plus 2-3 cm.

Using a bayonet shovel, you need to make an incision in the turf along the control cord and remove the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm around the building from the walls to the notch line.

Around the outer perimeter of the new base obtained, a trench 25 cm wide and 15 cm deep is dug to install curbs, after which the base surface and the bottom of the trench in it are leveled and tamped.

Stages of surface preparation for the blind area

Waterproofing construction

Strips of roofing material are laid across the dug trench with an overlap of 10 cm over each other so that the roofing material repeats the profile of the base - it descended from the ground into the trench, came out of it and, passing across the base of the future blind area, formed an overlap with a height of 30 cm on the base. the surfaces of the overlaps of the roofing material strips cover bituminous mastic and glued together.

Expansion joint device on the plinth

To the plinth along the perimeter, over the roofing felt overlaps, using dowels-fungi, do-it-yourself fasten end-to-end strips of extruded polystyrene foam (foam of a solid structure, without balls) 2-3 cm thick.

The width of the strips should be 30 cm, the upper edge of the strip should follow the line marked on the base top level tiles. Expanded polystyrene will not only evenly press the roofing material to the surface of the base, but will also take on the stresses that will arise in concrete due to temperature fluctuations.

Insulated blind area

Installation of expanded polystyrene on a plinth, in addition to the deformation damping method, is part of the technology for the construction of an insulated blind area, which is carried out in areas with high level freezing of the soil. The technology for the construction of an insulated blind area also includes a number of other works, for example, the production of insulating the basement to a great depth and conical filling under it with expanded clay.

The insulated blind area of ​​the house prevents the formation of condensation on the inner surface of the basement, which is important when using a technical underground room.

The installation of a blind area from paving slabs is made using curbs that prevent the paving stones from sliding along an inclined surface and give completeness to the finishing of the structure. Curbstone produced different sizes... For arranging the blind area, stones of the format 1000x150x300 and 850x150x300 mm (length x width x height) are convenient, which require two people during installation, but ensure high structural strength. When arranging a blind area with a figured configuration of the outer edge, the borders are cut into 2 or 4 parts with a grinder with a dry cutter.

At the bottom of the trench, on top of roofing material, crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm is poured with a layer of 5-7 cm, it is leveled and tamped with a tamper made by hand from a piece of log or timber. The curb is laid on a layer of cement-sand mortar 5 cm thick, applied to a tamped crushed stone pad in a trench, and leveled against a control cord and a bubble level.

It is necessary to make a "curb lock" - the solution is flush with the soil base of the blind area is laid in a trench on both sides of the curb between the stone and roofing felt.

Top edge level of curbs

The design position of the upper plane of the stone can be of two types:

• flush with paving slabs;
• above the level of the paving stone by 5-7 cm (blind area-sidewalk).

In the first case, the curbs are mounted without a gap, with a preliminary application of a continuous layer of mortar on the end of the stone and placing it close to the adjacent product. The top mark of the curb should be 5-7 cm below the tile mark on the plinth. This corresponds to a slope of the blind area of ​​5-7%. The protruding excess mortar is removed with a trowel, and the joints are rubbed.

When installing curbs above the tiles, every second joint is made with a gap of 5 cm for water drainage. In this case, the level of the upper edge of the curb should approximately coincide with the level of the edge of the tiles adjacent to the basement of the house.

Sand cushion device

Sand is poured over the waterproofing and leveled with a layer of 10 cm. It is better if the sand is wet - this will increase the quality of its subsequent compaction with your own hands. The sand will evenly and without damage press the roofing material to the tamped, primed base, and will also preliminarily indicate the profile of the crushed stone pillow.

To do this, you need to pour a ball of sand and tamp it tightly

Construction of a crushed stone pillow

On top of the sand layer, crushed stone of 20-40 mm fraction is laid, leveled with a layer of 8-10 cm and compacted. Compaction is performed so that the subsidence of crushed stone into the hidden cavity does not entail the subsidence of concrete.

The profile of the crushed stone layer must repeat the profile sand pillow, that is, it should have a slope of 5-7% to the side of the building.

The concrete base around the building is reinforced with a flat steel mesh with a cell size of 15x15 or 20x20 cm from reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. The pieces of the mesh are sequentially laid in a row with overlap on each other in 2 cells, fastening the overlaps with a knitting wire with their own hands. Plane set reinforcement mesh should be located so that after laying the concrete, it is under a layer of mortar at least 3-4 centimeters. The mesh should also not have stressful areas, which, after pouring the concrete, will bend out of it.

Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement is required

Device of transverse expansion joints

Due to temperature changes, the blind area of ​​the house is subject to significant linear changes in size, which is fraught with swelling. Therefore, the technology includes not only the arrangement of a longitudinal expansion joint between the plinth and the blind area around the house, but also the installation of additional transverse damping joints in the structure.

To do this, over the reinforcement perpendicular to the base with a step of 1.5-2.0 m, damping partitions-spacers are installed around the building between the curb and the building. The same partitions are installed diagonally at the corners of the base. Spacers can be made with your own hands from strips of extruded polystyrene foam or boards soaked in used engine oil. The thickness of the strip or board should be 3 cm, the width - the thickness of the concrete pad, and the length - the width of the blind area in the place to be installed.

Concrete preparation

In the compartments between the damping partitions, flush with their upper edge, concrete is laid with a layer of 5-7 cm, made by hand in volumetric proportions of 2: 4: 8: 1 (M500 cement, sand, crushed stone, water).

Only after completing the previous points can you start preparing the concrete mixture.

The design slope of the mortar surface during compaction and leveling must be made 5%.

After a few hours, the set concrete around the house is covered with plastic wrap to avoid premature evaporation of water and loss of strength of the base. It is correct to start laying paving slabs in a week, when the concrete has gained approximately 70% strength.

The paving stones of the blind area are laid on cement-sand mortar, made in volumetric proportions 1: 3. On a base area of ​​approximately 0.25 sq. apply a layer of mortar with a thickness of 1-2 cm. The tile around the building is laid from the curb to the base, that is, from the bottom up, so that it does not slide down the slope. Having laid the tiles on the mortar, they are slightly pressed against the base and, by tapping with a rubber mallet, they are installed in place. A fixed gap of 2-3 mm is left between the tiles. Paving stones are cut and adjusted with their own hands using a grinder with a dry cutter.

Traditional technology of laying paving slabs on a sandy base will provide surface mobility

Grouting paving slabs

Three days after the end of the laying of the paving stones, the seams of the coating are filled with their own hands. To do this, you need to make a dry cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, which is poured into the blind area in half a bucket portions. With a hard broom, the mixture is swept along the basement around the house, filling the joints of the tiles. After filling all the seams, gently water the surface with water from a garden watering can in order to just moisten the dry mixture at the joints.

After a day, the procedure is repeated, but without wetting with water. The mixture should not fill the joints flush with the surface, joints should be clearly marked. The dry mixture, due to its hygroscopicity, hardens in a week, picking up moisture from the air and fresh concrete base.

To remove excess roofing material overlap, you need to make an incision around the building on the waterproofing along the edge of the paving stone to the baseboard expanded polystyrene. In the same way, excess roofing material is removed from outside borders.

A blind area is called a covering of a certain width that surrounds the house around the perimeter. This coating is made at the final stage of construction, necessarily after finishing the basement part. The material used is concrete, asphalt, clinker tiles. One of the most popular materials is. Paving slabs have high strength, frost and wear resistance, a huge selection of surface patterns, colors, various textures, attractive appearance and reasonable price.

The blind area around the house serves to solve the following tasks:

Protection of the foundation from precipitation and melt water. Due to the construction of the coating, precipitation and melt water will not have long-term contact with the foundation and will not be able to negatively affect it. Water flows from the blind area away from the foundation.

Additional insulation of the foundation. The presence of a properly arranged blind area reduces freezing of the soil and the foundation itself. In addition, by reducing the freezing of the soil around the house, the risk of soil swelling is reduced, and the foundation will be subject to less stress due to soil displacement.

Organization of convenient access to any point around the perimeter of the house. This is a utilitarian (practical) function that is important when operating a home. At the same time, caring for the blind area does not require much time, but the solution of various economic problems in the future will be greatly facilitated.

Giving a complete and beautiful look to your home. The decorative function is an important, but not the main function, performed by the blind area. However, it is to her that people attach the greatest importance.

There are several requirements that must be met when installing a coating:

The blind area should be continuous around the entire house.

Its width should not be less than 60 cm, but in any case it should be wider eaves at least 20 cm. For better protection foundation from atmospheric precipitation and melt water, it is advisable to increase the width of the coating.

The blind area should be arranged with a slope of 3-5% from the house. The slope angle depends on the type of material used for the covering. For paving slabs, a slope of 3% will be enough. It is the correct slope that will protect the foundation of your house and dump water away from it.

Important! Structurally, the blind area should consist of an underlying layer and the coating itself.

The task of the underlying layer is to create solid foundation under upper layer... The subbase can be made of crushed stone, fine gravel and sand. The use of clay in the sub-base will provide additional waterproofing. In practice, a concrete base layer is often found (like a footing when constructing the foundation of a house or when building roads). By itself, concrete in our climatic conditions is not very practical for arranging the top layer of the blind area. Concrete coating will quickly lose appearance and will constantly require repairs. For the device of the top layer, which must be waterproof, use asphalt, paving stones, clinker tiles (beautiful, reliable, but expensive) and paving slabs.

Subbase device

Work begins on the arrangement of the underlying layer with excavation along the entire perimeter of the house. For ordinary soils, it will be enough to remove the earth on a shovel bayonet, but for heaving soils, it will be necessary to remove a layer of earth up to 30 cm. The soil is removed with the formation of a slope away from the foundation. It will be enough to make a slope of 3%. The roots of trees and plants are carefully removed.

The width of the trench should be equal to the width of the blind area. It should be remembered that this width should not be less than 60 cm, while at least 20 cm wider than the eaves.

Clay is laid at the bottom of the trench and carefully compacted. In order to avoid problems with the walls of the trench, you can strengthen them with the simplest formwork or curbstone. The clay can be replaced with a durable waterproofing film. In this case, the film should overlap the foundation of the house above the coverage level.

Then sand is poured, covered with geotextiles, then a layer of rubble. Geotextiles will not allow the destruction of the sand layer under the influence of weather. In addition, crushed stone, together with geotextiles, will perform a drainage function and drain water from the “pie” of the blind area.

There are recommendations to use herbicides to control plants. This will prevent the grass and plant roots from eroding the cover. We will not talk about the effectiveness of this method, but herbicides can bring a lot of harm to your site. With water trapped in the ground, they will begin their "journey", and no one knows where they will end up. It is possible that the carrots or apples from your site will contain herbicides that you have applied to the ground with your own hands. Lay geotextiles at the bottom of the trench, and the grass with weeds will not damage the blind area. Safe and without any chemicals.

To lay the coating, a thin layer of sand should be laid on the crushed stone layer, after having previously laid geotextiles again. Geotextile will protect the crushed stone layer from sand clogging, and will allow it to effectively perform the drainage function. All layers are made with the preservation of the specified slope of 3%.

The drainage channel for the blind area is made of a drainage pipe laid in rubble. In this case, the pipe is laid to the edge of the underlying layer farthest from the house. The pipe can be laid next to the “cake” of the coating in a layer at the level of the lower part of the crushed stone layer. Preliminary drain pipe cover with geotextiles. This will prevent soil and sand particles from entering the pipe and will not cause clogging.

Installation of a blind area from paving slabs

It is better to lay paving slabs as a covering on a mixture of sand and cement. Such a composition is called a gartsovka. Under the influence of water, the mixture of sand and cement will set and will not be washed out in the future. The seams between the paving slabs are filled with the same mixture. The tiles are laid on the mixture, knocked out with a rubber mallet and leveled in one plane. Do not forget about the need to maintain the desired bias from the house. After the completion of the tile laying, the remains of the gartsovka are swept away, and the tiles are spilled with water. A curbstone is laid along the perimeter of the coating. The curb in height should not protrude above the level of the blind area and thereby impede the flow of water.

Very important! Select tiles for the covering so that they do not need to be cut.

In the blind area, tiles are laid in whole rows. The coating should not fit snugly against the foundation of the house. An expansion joint must be left. Under the influence of the soil, the foundation and the blind area, due to the different weight of the structure, will behave differently, and the tile tightly adhering to the basement can damage the material with which the basement is lined.

Another advantage of paving slabs as a coating material is the ability to replace damaged areas without damaging the entire blind area.

Insulated paving slabs blind area

Insulation of the blind area is not done in all cases. Insulation is mandatory with a shallow foundation and heaving soils... In other cases, it is desirable. It is recommended to use expanded clay or expanded polystyrene as insulation. The most popular type of expanded polystyrene is penoplex.

A thin leveling layer of sand is poured onto a layer of clay ("clay castle") or soft waterproofing, on top of which foam boards are laid. Further layers of the "pie" of the blind area can be made, as mentioned above, however, the penoplex needs to be protected with a hydro-repellent coating.

Warming with expanded clay is even easier to do. It is filled up instead of a layer of rubble and, due to its qualities, insulates the blind area.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete blind area

A concrete blind area is made in the form of a pie from " clay castle»Or soft waterproofing, sand, which acts as a shock absorber, and crushed stone. For insulation of the coating, crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay. The thickness of the crushed stone layer is 5 cm. The concrete pavement is reinforced with a mesh with cells of 10x10 cm. Expansion joints, which will protect the concrete pavement from cracking, are made of thin wooden planks placed on the edge across the blind area. Planks are installed with a step of 2.5 m. It is advisable to pre-coat them with bitumen. Planks are installed at the height of the concrete pavement with a slope from the house.

Concrete is poured. When leveling its surface, the planks will serve as beacons. The thickness of the concrete layer when reinforced with mesh is 10 cm.

Experts advise to iron the poured concrete by sprinkling it with cement and leveling it with a metal trowel. This method will increase the surface moisture resistance of concrete. The concrete pavement is covered and periodically spilled with water. This is done until the coating is completely solidified.

For the construction of a concrete blind area, it is enough to use cement of the M100 brand, maximum M200. It makes no sense to use a higher brand, including because of the higher price.

Paving slabs are laid on a concrete base on a special glue (rather expensive), pavement (this method requires certain skills and experience. Look at the "fruits" of the labor of numerous teams of guest workers trying to put tiles on pavement, after which a year later the coating requires repair) and on an ordinary wet mortar of sand and cement.

The paving slabs are first laid out and the drawing is checked. In places where trimming is required, the tiles are marked.

Then the tiles are removed and a layer of mortar 2-3 cm thick is applied to the base using a trowel. The tiles are laid and fitted with a rubber mallet.

For exact adherence to the size of the seams, special plastic crosses are used. It is important to closely monitor the slope of the tile plane. Let the mortar set and start grouting after 2-3 days. The seams are filled up with a hartsovka and spilled with cold water.

We examined the main points of the construction of a complex "pie" of the blind area covered with paving slabs. Someone will decide what can be done easier, but about waterproofing, drainage, expansion joints v concrete pavement do not forget. In order not to redo it in a year. Beautiful and durable blind area to all!

A good alternative to the usual, but not devoid of disadvantages, concrete blind areas has become a blind area made of paving slabs or paving stones. Easy to install and affordable tiles make it possible to do the work yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

A blind area around the house made of paving slabs, in addition to protecting the foundation from water, allows you to create a beautiful and comfortable path around the entire perimeter of a private house or summer cottage. Consider the technology for arranging the correct blind area in the form of step-by-step instructions.

How to make a blind area from paving slabs with your own hands

The design of the blind area consists of two layers: internal, the craftsmen call it the base, bedding or pillow. As well as external, in our case paving slabs will be used. In order for each layer to perform the functions assigned to it, they must be done according to the rules.

Materials for the blind area of ​​the house

• paving slabs (or paving stones). The choice depends on the desired pattern. But for novice craftsmen it is better to take an ordinary brick-type tile. There is an opinion that the larger the tiles, the easier and faster the installation process will be (in practice, it happens quite the opposite, it is more difficult to align and lay large tiles). The dimensions of paving slabs "brick" (paving stones) vary within the range: thickness 40-60 mm, width 60-120 mm, length 100-280 mm. For the blind area, tiles with a thickness of up to 40 mm (pedestrian zone) or up to 60 mm (car passage zone) are suitable. ;

• border. When laid out with a curb, there is no need for a curb;

• waterproofing film, PVC film or roofing material;

• insulation (if necessary);

• clay. Needed in order to make a hydraulic lock.

  Note. Experts advise taking oily clay (with a minimum content of sand and impurities), it is denser, which means it removes water better.

• sand, it is desirable to sift some;

• crushed stone. The gravel is responsible for keeping the pillow directly under the tiles dry. For the device of the pillow, crushed stone with a fraction of 20-30 mm is suitable;

  Note. The larger the fraction of crushed stone (the larger it is), the more sand will be needed.

• cement;

• pipe for communications, as well as pipes and collectors, if a drain is planned.

Tool:

Shovel, trowel, rubber hammer, level, container for preparing mixtures, grinder with diamond disc(for cutting tiles to size).

According to user reviews, the work of laying the blind area takes a little time (depending on the area). Moreover, most of it is devoted to the preparation of the base and tamping.

Today we will figure out how a blind area is made of paving slabs. This option looks much better than usual. concrete framing, but it is quite simple to make it. Read this article and you can easily get the job done and get great results.

Workflow steps

All work can be divided into several main stages:

• Purchase of materials and tools;
• Blind area marking and surface preparation;
• Laying the base under the blind area;
• Laying of paving slabs and sealing of joints.

Stage 1 - acquisition of materials and tools

First, let's figure out what materials are needed for work. The list is shown in the table below.

"Izostud" - modern waterproofing material increased strength

From the tool you will need the following:

• Ramming, it can be either manual or special device(it can be rented);

• A rubber mallet called a mallet used to level the tiles
• Grinder with a disc for concrete for cutting curbs and tiles;
• A trowel and a shovel, as well as a container for preparing mixtures;
• Long level. If you have a short version, then you can attach it to a long rail or rule.

Stage 2 - preparation and marking of the surface

First of all, the following works are performed:

• If there was already an old blind area around the foundation of the house, then it must be removed. On new buildings, the surface is simply freed up. If you will use this part of the structure as a track, then its width should be at least 75 cm. If the blind area will only perform a protective function, then it can be made a little narrower;
• Next, you need to markup, for this, cords are pulled along the walls and fixed on pegs. Drive the pegs so that they are located at a distance from the blind area and do not interfere with the work. It is important to take measurements correctly and set accurate benchmarks for work;

• Along the line, broken off by a cord, the bed is digging under the blind area. Its depth should be about 40 cm if you will be using clay, and 30 cm if you will be using a special waterproofing material. It is important to choose the ground carefully so that the surface is more or less even;

Stage 3 - preparation of the base for the tiles

This is the most crucial stage, on which the strength of the structure directly depends. First, check out the design diagram. This classic version which is used most often.

The base device is as follows:

• The soil base should be tamped very well. This allows constructions to be secured. If the surface is not well compacted, then individual areas may subsequently sag;

The blind area should not be done within a year after the construction of the house. This is necessary in order for the ground to settle.

• Next, a waterproofing layer is laid. If you have clay, then you need to distribute it in a layer of 10 cm, level and tamp. If you use the "Izrostud" material, then it must be cut into strips of the required size, while the side part should go 15 cm onto the foundation so that water does not get into the joint. An overlap of at least 30 cm is made on the joints to ensure reliability;

• It is best to fasten the material to the wall with dowels. fast assembly with a step of about 20 cm. The very junction of the wall and "Izostud" is carefully sealed with bitumen sealant or mastic. As a result, you should have approximately the same connection as in the photo below;

• If you laid clay, then it is necessary to put geotextile on it, and on top of it pour a layer of sand 5 cm. It also needs to be well tamped and leveled. To improve compaction, it is recommended to wet the surface with a spray hose or garden watering can. If you used special waterproofing, then geotextile is not needed, pour sand immediately;

• Then the curb is installed, it is placed at such a distance that a certain number of tiles fit into the space without cutting, this will simplify the process. Preparing cement mortar, is applied in a strip to the base and a border is placed on it. Elements are set along the line, and then leveled. The structure must stand for a day before continuing work;

• After the solution has solidified, a layer of 15 cm of crushed stone can be poured into the cavity. First of all, you need to carefully distribute the material over the entire surface. After that, with the help of a rammer, compaction is made, this will eliminate the subsidence of individual sections in the future;

• A layer of geotextile is laid on top of the rubble. It will act as a barrier to wash out the sand from the top layer and will strengthen the surface. It is spread along the foundation, then the excess is cut off. At the joints, overlap at least 20 cm for reliable protection;
• The last layer is poured from a cement-sand mixture, which is prepared in a ratio of 1 part of cement to 4 parts of sand. First, the mixture is poured and leveled with a layer of about 5 cm, the final compaction and removal of excess is done using a flat strip. Over time, the mixture of sand and cement hardens and forms a solid base.

Stage 4 - tiling and grouting

Let's figure out how to lay the tiles with our own hands:

• Laying is done from the foundation wall at the corner of the building. The elements are placed very tightly one after another so that the seams are as small as possible and the rows are as even as possible.
• For control, you can pull the cords in rows or lay a rail as a guide. The work is carried out from yourself forward so that you do not step on the prepared base, but walk on the tiles;

• Work is being carried out along the entire length of the blind area. In the future, it is necessary to control not only the density of the location, but also the plane. To do this, apply a level to the surface and, where necessary, tap the elements with a rubber mallet. The difference should not exceed a couple of millimeters;

If, during the installation process, the element has sat down too deeply, then it must be carefully removed and poured under it with a cement-sand mixture. After that, the tile is put in place and leveled with a mallet.

• The laying is done in this way until the very end. If you happen to be in selected locations the tiles must be cut, then at the beginning only whole elements are laid. After that, measurements are taken, pieces are cut and inserted into place. Naturally, the level is monitored and regulated;

• After the end of the installation, the entire plane is checked again with a level, if there are irregularities on it, then they are leveled with a mallet. As a result, you should get an even base with minimal errors;
• Preparing cement-sand mixture in the same proportions as for the pillow. After that, it is poured in a layer of 5 mm over the entire surface. Using a brush or broom, it is worth driving the composition into the joints as tightly as possible. If necessary, you can add more mixtures, in the end all the joints must be filled to the top;

• Last but not least, the surface is well wetted. If the composition has subsided in some places, then you can add it again, after which the tile is watered again. After 3 days, they will dry out and gain strength, before that it is not recommended to walk on them.

Conclusion

I'm just sure that after reading the review, you will understand how the blind area is made of paving slabs, and easily complete the work. The video in this article will show some of the working points visually and help you understand the topic even better. If you have questions, then do not hesitate to write them in the comments.

One of the elements external arrangement a house installed on a reinforced concrete foundation is a blind area. It is a flat tape located along the entire house from the outside of it. Today we will talk about how to make a blind area from paving slabs with your own hands.

Appointment of the blind area

It should be noted that the blind area is not required element building. It can be neglected if the base of the house is or. And they don't always suit her.

A blind area around a house made of paving slabs or any other material solves a whole range of tasks aimed at improving the operational properties of the entire structure as a whole and such an important part of it as the foundation, in particular. With this tape, you can achieve the following results:

1. prevent the destruction of the base of the house by moisture. After all, the blind area of ​​a house made of paving slabs, concrete or asphalt is ultimately used to drain water from precipitation as far as possible from the walls of the house, which will provide protection for the foundation.
2. to reduce the heat loss of the building through its lower underground part in the event that an insulated blind area is made of paving slabs.
3. Create a decorative operated path around the house that will combine protective functions and will decorate the exterior of the building and the entire site.

Of course, all of the above results can be achieved only if the technology for performing this type of work is observed and the use quality materials... Let us dwell on the features of the process in more detail.

Blind design

Before moving on to detailed description manufacturing process, consider what parts the construction of the blind area consists of paving slabs. In section, it is a puff cake consisting of several mandatory layers located from bottom to top in the following sequence:

• Clay layer;
• Sand layer;
• Rubble layer;
• Again a layer of sand or gartsovka;
• Paving slabs.

To increase the moisture-insulating properties, all of the listed parts must be tamped with high quality. This can be done manually with the simplest device, but it is better to use a special construction tool- vibrating plate. In addition to the listed materials, for the device of such a blind area, a sufficient amount of geotextiles or.

The sequence of work on the arrangement of the tiled blind area

When starting to work on the manufacture of a blind area at home, you should prepare necessary tool... You will need:

• Bayonet shovel;
• Shovel shovel;
• Rammer or vibrating plate;
• Mallet with rubber striker.

Having prepared everything you need, we begin to make the blind area. Below is the sequence of work performed.

Marking a trench for a blind area

We start by doing the markup so that the tile area has the correct geometric parameters. As already noted, it is a tape along the entire base of the house. Its width is selected at least 300 mm more than the roof overhang beyond the walls, but not less than 900 mm. This is done to ensure the drainage of storm water from the foundation and the convenience of walking.

It is convenient to make markings on the terrain using scrap steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm or wooden pegs. They are driven into the corners of the future trench and covered with strong construction twine with sufficient tension to avoid sagging. It is better to pick up a white or red rope - they are better visible against the background of the ground.

Digging trenches

As noted, the paving slabs house blind area consists of several layers, each of which is 10-15 cm thick. Together, this gives the necessary and desired trench digging depth. On average, this figure is 400 mm. Approximately the same parameters are adhered to in the case when the blind area is made not only with paving slabs, but also with asphalt, pebbles, boulders and other materials.

To obtain a trench inside the space from the marking to the foundation of the house, it is necessary to remove the soil layer to the indicated depth. The best tool for this is bayonet shovel... The use of any construction equipment is impractical. Before starting work, it is necessary to think over the issue of further placement of the excavated soil. It can be distributed over the territory of the site, made high beds or flower beds, rock garden.

It is advisable to carefully level the bottom of the groove for the layered pie of the blind area with a shovel and tamp it. It is advisable to give the blind area and each of its rows a slope outward from the house at a slight angle. The norm is a bevel of 5 cm for each meter of the width of the structure. We put all the layers of the blind area into the prepared recess.

Making a clay hydraulic lock

The first layer is high quality clay with a minimum amount of sand. Builders call it "fat". It has the best waterproofing properties. In the event that the soil in the place where the blind area is made of paving slabs is clay, the hydraulic lock is made by carefully tamping the bottom of the trench. For all other types of soil, this layer must be additionally poured.

The thickness of the hydraulic lock is about 100-150 mm. Pre-moistening of the material is allowed - this will facilitate the subsequent compaction and improve its quality. Clay should be compacted in compliance with the above slope, which will provide a more reliable drainage of melt and storm water from the house, and the very blind area around the house made of paving stones will last longer.

For achievement better waterproofing lay on top of the first layer plastic wrap 200 microns thick. To prevent slipping, its inner edge is attached to the foundation using a clamping rail fixed to a nail dowel or to a special sealant. The overlap on the wall must be at least 200 mm. The opposite edge should hang over a layer of clay so that the do-it-yourself blind area fulfills its main function with high quality.

Laying subsequent layers

On top of the hydraulic lock, it is necessary to lay two layers of sand and a layer of rubble, alternating with each other. This is necessary to create a solid base for paving slabs. Wet sand is poured directly onto the film with a layer of 10 cm and gently rammed. A layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction is laid on top of it and is also compacted manually or with a vibrating plate.

Since the blind area of ​​paving slabs does not have a concrete layer, weeds may germinate through it during operation, which will not improve the appearance of the coating. To avoid this and to prevent silting of the lower layers on top of the crushed stone, it is recommended to lay a layer of another roll building material- geotextiles.

Further, on a substrate made of artificial canvas, it is poured last layer sand. It will be the basis for laying paving slabs. Often for this purpose, not pure sand is used, but its mixture with cement, used without subsequent moistening. She got the name of the gartsovka. The advantage of its use is the subsequent setting and fixation of the blind area from the tile, preventing the removal of the elements.

Installation of a drainage system

An important element of foundation protection in the manufacture of tile blind area is the drainage of storm water outside the site. For this purpose, a system consisting of drainage wells and drainage pipes is used. Installation of elements drainage system must be carried out before laying paving slabs.

The catchment wells are installed directly under the sockets of the drainpipes. This will prevent pressure water from entering the blind area and erosion of the seams, which is fraught with the removal of the tiles during operation. From the wells at an angle of inclination of the blind area, drain pipes are mounted. Usually, orange plastic sewer street highways are used for these purposes.

The same pipes or concrete gutters are laid in the ground along the edge of the paving slabs, closing the channels from above with special gratings to prevent clogging. The system is drained into the sewer, into a septic tank or taken out of the land plot, towards the natural slope of the terrain.

Installation of paving slabs

This is not to say that paving slabs are the most affordable material for the layman. average cost elements fluctuates in different regions within 10-15 rubles. To make such a blind area less costly, coating details can be made with your own hands from a mixture of sand, cement and water. The process technology is not complicated, it is enough just to purchase or manufacture from edged boards a sufficient number of forms.

The sizes of paving slabs are different. The shape also ranges from simple rectangular or diamond shapes to more complex ones. Special attention should be given to the thickness of the parts. For arranging footpaths or laying a foundation of paving slabs, suitable material 40 mm thick, 60 mm thick parts should be used for paving driveways.

The technology of the paving stone area begins with the selection and laying of the material. It is better to lay the first row of paving slabs with your own hands from the wall of the house, gradually moving to the edge of the blind area. The main styling tool is a rubber mallet. The use of other impact tools is not recommended as they can damage the paving slabs.

After the end of the work, the finished blind area around the house is woken up with a grinder to fill the seams and spilled with water by sprinkling from a watering can or hose. To obtain decorative "green seams" on the tiles with your own hands, you can sprinkle with a mixture of sand or soil with lawn grass... But such delights will require additional care in the future.

So, in particular, a blind area is made of tiles with your own hands. The technology of the process is not complicated and accessible to everyone. If you are not completely confident in your abilities, get acquainted with how professional workers do it in neighboring areas.