Homemade batteries: technology for making heating radiators from pipes. Homemade heating batteries

When starting the construction of a house, a good owner considers expenses not only for the construction itself, but also for communications. Costs can be reduced somewhat if you make some of the heating equipment yourself; fortunately, the necessary materials can be found not only in hardware stores, but even in your own barn or landfill. Do-it-yourself heating radiators are a labor-intensive task, but quite affordable, as you will learn about in our article.

Where will he stand?

Before you make a heating radiator with your own hands, think about where it will be located. Such a unit can heat a room very well, but it is quite difficult to make it an interior decoration. However, it all depends on the style, and it is possible that you can install your creation even in the living room.

However, most often such products can be seen in workshops or warehouses, that is, where a particularly impressive design is not needed.

Important! If you are going to make several radiators, start with those that will heat the basement or hallway, see what you can do, and only then decide whether they are needed in other rooms.

Pros of homemade radiators

The main advantage of a homemade battery is its extreme low price despite the fact that it is a complete and very effective unit. They are made from wide pipes. They can:

connect with each other using jumpers;
made from bent pipes.

If we talk about other advantages, they are as follows:

you can use pipes that have already been used;
the design allows such devices to operate in systems with both natural and forced circulation;
If you install a heating element and a thermostat, the unit will be able to work autonomously.

Flaws

Before you decide to do something, you need to find out as much as possible about the shortcomings of your future creation:

To make such a thing, you need to have a welding machine and know how to work with it.
Need to pay attention Special attention the quality of welds - they must be very reliable, because coolant is supplied to the radiator under high pressure.
Compared to industrially manufactured radiators, the heat transfer of homemade ones is quite low.
Homemade radiators can only be used in a private house; they cannot be installed in apartments.

Therefore, starting such a business only makes sense if the owners of the future home are very limited in funds. Good reason engage in the manufacture of batteries if it is possible to obtain materials for free or at an extremely low price.

Important! Homemade batteries do not meet the safety requirements that heating devices in urban high-rise buildings must meet.

Heating register

The simplest version of a homemade battery is a heating register. The unit is made from several pipes welded together. The radiator works in exactly the same way as the most ordinary central heating battery:

The pipes are filled with coolant.
The coolant heats up the metal.
From the heated metal, heat spreads throughout the room.

Heating registers can be:

single-pipe;
from several pipes.

According to the installation method, they are divided into two types:

wall;
floor

Important! Similar designs were installed in the bathrooms of old houses - this is what heated towel rails once looked like.

Bent and sectional

Heating registers that you can make yourself come in two types:

bent, or serpentine;
sectional.

Sectional radiators

As the name suggests, the unit consists of several sections. It is made from wide pipes that are arranged in parallel. Plugs are placed at the ends. The sections are connected by thinner tubes. The coolant enters and exits through the pipes - they should be located at the edges.

To prevent the structure from falling apart at the slightest touch, the pipes are connected with jumpers. They are also needed for another purpose - to increase the area of the heated metal, and accordingly, increase heat transfer. First, the coolant enters the pipe located at the top, then through the pipe it enters the compartment, which is located at a lower level, then fills all the pipes and moves to the next section.

Important! The system must withstand a pressure of 13 atmospheres.

Coils

Bent structures are somewhat simpler than sectional ones. You have seen them many times - these are the very modern heated towel rails that are mostly installed in the bathrooms of new houses.

Serpentine radiators have many advantages over sectional ones:

simplicity and strength of design;
comparative ease of installation, if it is possible to obtain bent pipes;
greater efficiency since there is virtually no hydraulic resistance.

Important! The coil is made from straight and curved pipes of the same diameter. Hot water moves through them without any obstacles. To increase the strength of the structure, jumpers made of reinforcement are installed.

Calculating the radiator

What size will your sectional heating radiator be? This depends, first of all, on the size of the room, as well as the length of the sections. In many industrial premises you can see pipes the entire length of the wall - there may be only two of them. If you want the battery to occupy a smaller area, you can make it from more short pipes.

The jumpers are placed near the ends so that there is no interference with the free movement of the coolant.

Important! Should not be used for pipe sections different diameters– hydraulic resistance will arise, which will certainly affect the strength of the structure.

Making a radiator

Have you already decided on the design and weighed all the pros and cons? Fabulous! With the coil everything is quite simple, so let's try to make a sectional heating radiator with our own hands for large room. For example, you can build a battery 3 m wide in a four-pipe design.

You will need:

pipe 110-120 mm – 12 m (4 pieces of 3 m each);
stainless steel sheet for plugs;
metal water pipe - jumpers will be made from it;
construction fittings;
threaded fittings.

Of course with bare hands You can’t assemble such a structure – you need tools. The set is small but serious:

Bulgarian;
angle grinder;
welding machine (whether it is gas or electric does not matter).

If everything is ready, you can start assembling the heating radiator with your own hands:

Cut the pipe pieces to the required length.
Grind the ends with a grinder so that the cuts are even.
Slice water pipe into pieces 5-10 mm longer than the diameter of the section for jumpers, also process.
Cut round plugs from stainless steel sheets - there should be 8 of them.
Mark places for jumpers on the wide pipes - the more of them, the stronger and more efficient the radiator will be, however, only if the seams are of high quality.
Cut out the holes.
Weld the jumpers.
Weld a few more reinforcement jumpers to make the structure more reliable.
When the main part of the battery is assembled, weld the plugs.
Trim the plugs by trimming away any excess metal.

Installation of fittings

Fittings need to be inserted into the two end caps:

Determine how coolant will flow into your battery.
Select a fitting layout.

Depending on how your system will move hot water, you can choose one of the following schemes:

lateral;
diagonal;
bottom.

In the first case, the fittings cut into the upper and lower plugs on one side, in the second - on one side into the top one, and on the other into the bottom one. With the bottom type of connection, the nodes cut into two plugs of the section located below.

Appearance

Once all the nodes are in place, clean up your creation so that it looks decent. It is very useful to paint - this way you will kill three birds with one stone:

give your product a spectacular look;
improve the quality of heat transfer;
protect from corrosion.

Important! It is most useful to use white paint.

Heating devices are mandatory element any water heating system. They are usually the most expensive part. A good opportunity to save money would be to use homemade radiators. They are made from smooth round steel pipes or from profile pipes. The latter option is somewhat more expensive, but allows you to reduce the depth of the device and get a more aesthetic appearance.

Usage profile pipe for the manufacture of heating registers has a number of features. When starting to work with your own hands or deciding to buy a “homemade” product, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons. Studying the basic rules by which heating registers are made from a profile pipe will help you avoid mistakes when independent work and will make it possible to make a competent choice of the necessary parameters.

Design of heating registers

Heating devices in the form of registers are a structure of several vertical or horizontal pipelines connected to each other using jumpers. In this case, the connecting elements may have different shape and size. Depending on their location, classification is performed.

Register structure

For the manufacture of heating registers, smooth carbon steel pipes with a round cross-section, as well as square and rectangular ones, are used. Their combined use is possible. Good materials for registers there can also be stainless and galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, brass, but they are much more expensive and more difficult to process with your own hands.

Heating registers made of steel profile pipes are considered the simplest to make. They can be made in two main configurations: sectional type and coil type (S-shaped).

In a sectional type register, several sections of profiled metal with capped ends are arranged in parallel and connected to each other by round tubes of smaller cross-section. The jumpers ensure that the rows of the device are filled with coolant from both sides simultaneously. Moreover, the closer to the edge the transition pipes are installed, the higher the heat transfer of the device.

In a coil register, the liquid passes in an S-shape through rows of profile pipes, gradually cooling. To add rigidity to the structure, additional blind jumpers are used. Horizontal rows are connected in pairs by a snake using tubes of a smaller cross-section, like in sectional models, or sections of the main profile. The latter option is preferable due to lower hydraulic resistance and greater heat transfer.

Connecting pipes are made with threads or welding. The most effective option for connecting a heating device is a top-down diagram. For low models and in the case of forced circulation of coolant, entry and exit from below may be justified.

The design of the register must include a Mayevsky valve or an automatic air vent. It is located at the end of the top row on a threaded fitting to allow replacement. A prerequisite for installation is to maintain a slope of 0.05% in the direction of coolant movement.

Registers can be either stationary or portable. The first ones work as elements common system heating, the latter perform the task of local heating. The heat source for a separate mobile register is a heating element with a power of 1.5-6 W, mounted in the housing.

Important! The distance between register rows significantly affects heat transfer. The closer the pipes are to each other, the greater their mutual influence, which reduces the efficiency of the device. It is recommended to place the rows at a distance of at least the height of the profile pipe, increased by 50 mm.

In addition to large horizontal registers, small vertical models are also in demand. If you carry out the work carefully, you can get homemade cheap heating radiators from profile pipes that are almost as aesthetically pleasing as modern sectional radiators.

In some cases, steel registers can be a good addition to the heating units already installed in the room. Despite the lower heat transfer than radiators of a similar size, their use may be more appropriate due to their lower cost.

High vertical registers are very convenient for high rooms or near high window openings. They can successfully fit into the interiors of rooms with unusual design solutions. By experimenting a little with color and shape, you can get creative decoration from simple heating devices.

Advantages and disadvantages of profile pipe

Most often, heating registers are made of smooth water and gas pipes round section. They are cheaper, have better hydraulic characteristics for transporting coolant, and greater tensile strength with a small wall thickness. What is the reason for the use of profile pipes for the manufacture of registers?

Heating radiators made of square and rolled metal rectangular section have a number of important advantages:

compactness of the device in depth;
the ability to give an attractive appearance;
greater surface area than round pipe the same height;
additional opportunities for creative design non-standard premises;
They are relatively easy to make with your own hands and do not rotate during operation;
can be made from pipe scraps left over after construction work.

However, there are also plenty of disadvantages:

the profile pipe is not intended for transporting liquid;
lower resistance to water hammer and high pressure;
The length of the welds is longer than that of similar round pipe registers, which increases the likelihood of leaks and reduces the overall reliability of the device.

Thus, before deciding on the advisability of using registers made of profile pipes, you should evaluate all possible options, carefully analyze the operating conditions and requirements that heating devices must meet in each specific case.

Selecting parameters

The heating register parameters are determined based on the required heat output. The most exact values gives a detailed thermal engineering calculation of heat loss through the enclosing structures, but since it is quite labor-intensive, we will consider alternative options.

Very approximately, for a typical insulated room with a height of no more than 3 m, you can take 1 kW of thermal power per 10 m 2. More accurate values can be determined from the table below, depending on the quality of thermal insulation and the volume of the room.

Heat dissipation 1 m.p. profile pipe is determined by the formula:

Q=K ·F · ∆t,

K- heat transfer coefficient, W/(m 2 0 C), for single pipe K= 11.3 W/( m 2 0 C);

F– pipe surface area, m 2, F = 2 (a+b) l,

Where a And b– dimensions of the sides cross section, A l– pipe length, respectively, m;

∆t– temperature pressure, 0 C, ∆t= 0.5·(t 1 + t 2) – t to,

Where t 1 And t 2– temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet of the device; t to– temperature in the room.

The required pipe length is calculated by dividing the required thermal power by the heat output of 1 m of pipe. The number of rows is determined by rounding up and is determined by the presence free space and room configuration. For the obtained number, the heat transfer value is specified taking into account the mutual irradiation of the pipes using a reduction factor of 0.9 for each row.

The length of the register can be taken structurally, taking into account the characteristics of the room and the location of the equipment. For example, if there is big window, then it is desirable that the length of the threads be no less than the size of the window, creating a wide thermal curtain for cold air.

Advice! In some cases, it makes sense to take the length of the register across the entire width of the room. This will ensure the most even heating of the room. For objects such as greenhouses, this is especially important.

The cross-section of the profile pipe is taken either based on the available material, or is selected by trial calculations and finding the optimal combination of cross-section and length of rows of the heating register. The most commonly used pipes are 60*40, 60*60 and 80*60 with a wall thickness of 3 mm. Large cross sections are not desirable, since the increased volume of coolant will create additional load on the boiler.

On a note: It’s better not to skimp on wall thickness. The thicker the pipe wall, the longer the heating device will last. It will be able to withstand large pressure surges and is more resistant to corrosion.

Based on the calculations carried out, the final selection of heating register parameters is made and a drawing is drawn up. According to the accepted dimensions, a heating device is ordered or the register is made by hand.

Making registers yourself

The steel registers have quite simple design and do not require much skill to create them. Almost anyone with experience working with a welding machine can make homemade radiators heating from a profile pipe. Unlike round ones, they are conveniently fixed in place, which makes welding easier.

Required materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to stock up on everything you need. Let us consider in detail what is required for the simplest three-row register.

Materials:

Profile pipe in accordance with the design parameters. Dimensions can be from 30x30x3 to 80x80x3 mm.
A round pipe with the same wall thickness with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm depending on the cross-section of the profile pipe.
Steel sheet 3 mm thick.
Branch pipes with external or internal thread in accordance with the diameter and type of connection – 2 pcs.
Steel coupling with internal thread with a diameter of 15 mm and Mayevsky tap.

Tools:

Welding machine.
Drill.
Bulgarian.
Hammer.
Marker or metal rod.
Roulette.

Preparation of materials:

The profile pipe is cut into pieces of the required length in accordance with the drawing.
The round pipe is cut into 4 pieces of 10 cm each.
From sheet metal 6 plugs are cut out in accordance with the size and shape of the profile pipe. They should be 3-5 mm smaller than the cross-section of the pipe. This will allow you to neatly hide the weld in the gap.
The pipes are laid on a level horizontal surface strictly parallel at a distance of 10 cm. You can use two wooden beams for support. The ends are aligned in one line. Marks are made for the holes at a distance of about 5-10 cm from the edge.
Using a cutter or drill, the intended holes are cut in accordance with the diameter of the jumpers.

Work order

The jumpers are fixed in place and secured by welding at 2-3 points.
Having positioned the structure vertically, the jumpers are finally welded. It is recommended to first make a thin seam at low current, which will allow the gaps to be filled well. Next, a thick main seam is performed at increased current.
The internal space of the register is cleared of metal debris and slag.
The plugs are applied, tacked and welded to the ends of the profile pipes.
Welding seams are processed. The protruding parts are knocked down with a hammer, then each seam is cleaned with a grinder.
Holes in the register are drilled depending on the selected connection diagram. In this case, it is better to place them not in the center of the ends, but slightly higher or lower.
Connecting pipes are welded to the holes.
The seams are cleaned and all holes except one are plugged. The register is filled with water under pressure and the welding quality is checked. The seams must withstand pressure up to 13 atm.
The outer surface is cleaned, degreased and painted with heat-resistant paint.
A fitting is welded to the top row and a Mayevsky valve is installed.

Sometimes supports are welded to the register, but devices without them are more versatile. If necessary, you can always use a stand, but the weight is less and you can still mount it on the wall.

Conclusion

Homemade radiators made from profile pipes are well suited for heating large premises. Mains-powered devices are convenient to use in periodic facilities: construction sites, garages, workshops, cottages. Stationary registers find their application in production workshops, greenhouses, warehouses and other technical facilities.

They have a fairly simple design, which makes them relatively easy to manufacture. This allows you to make steel registers yourself, which provides significant cost savings. If you wish, you can be more sophisticated and create analogues of modern designer models, which can become not only effective sources of heat, but also interior decoration.

Having carefully examined the price tag in a store for heating radiators, you can come to the conclusion that a homemade radiator will do for some conditions. Self-production in this case will help you save a lot, because often pipes (namely, radiators are made from) can be used second-hand, but only in a more or less tolerable condition, so that they do not become worn out during operation. But if you polish and tint such a heating device, assembled yourself or by specialists, then it will also turn out to be a decoration for the interior of a barn or garage, and can also be installed in a country house, or in a house, somewhere in a closed place.

Normal savings on homemade radiators

Homemade radiators can also be installed in the house if they are covered with decorative casings, for example, in niches under window sills. In this case, heat transfer will be lost, for example, up to 0.8 of the nominal value, but it can be edited during manufacturing. Thus, you can save a lot of money on creating heating for a small dacha.

Let's calculate: - for a dacha 60 sq. m. you need 5 radiators of 10 sections, a total of approximately 8 kW. The cost of aluminum radiators is 25 thousand rubles. The cost of homemade ones is 10 thousand rubles. (you need to pay for 3-4 days of welder work). They will serve equally without problems, provided there is no water exchange in the heating system.

How to find out the dimensions of a homemade radiator and its power

There is a well-known method for determining the power of a home-made radiator by the volume of coolant that fits in it. Here, volume in calculations acts as a substitute for surface area, on which heat transfer actually depends.

One section of a factory cast iron radiator with a rated (declared) power of 160 W holds 1.45 liters of liquid. As a rough approximation, to gain power of 1.5 kW at the same 90 degrees in a homemade radiator, you need the internal volume to be more than 14.5 liters - 16 - 18 liters.

The mathematically savvy reader is given the opportunity to independently determine the length of pipes of a certain diameter for the manufacture of radiators so that they hold 17 liters and radiate heat from 1.5 kW, like a standard 10-section from a store.

For those who do not want to be mathematically savvy, we will give the answer to this rebus in the example below.

How to make your own radiator for the garage and cottage

was tolerable appearance,
served for a long time

Manufacturing Notes:

It is better to arrange the pipes (fins) vertically, just like with all industrial radiators; manufacturing will be somewhat more expensive with a section length of up to 0.8 meters (for location under a window sill).
It is recommended not to save effort and in any case weld the pipe under the Mayevsky tap in the planned upper dead-end corner of the radiator. Otherwise, the airing will be greater or less.
It is advisable to create a distance between the tubes in a horizontal position of at least 20 cm, but preferably from 25 cm to allow the flow of cold air. When vertical - for ease of welding and processing.

Which pipes to choose for making radiators yourself

The square shape of radiator pipes, with skillful manufacturing, may ultimately turn out to be more attractive. But, as a rule, everything here is determined by the availability of the material.

Usually used steel ones with a diameter of 100 - 150 mm are in use - an excellent raw material for making radiators yourself.
Connected by tubes with a diameter of 1 inch or larger.
To connect to the system, pipes from the magazine are welded in with 3/4 or 1/2 inch threads. Their locations are for a specific installation location.

Connection diagrams - in handicraft production, it is taken into account how a specific radiator will be connected

In the above example, for a 6x8 cm pipe, you will need its length to be at least 3.5 meters in order to fit 15 liters and a power dissipation of approximately 1.3 - 1.5 kW (for cast iron the area is still much larger) at the nominal coolant temperature, or 3 tubes of 1.2 meters each placed horizontally, but better than 5 tubes of 0.7 meters each placed vertically.

How to paint a homemade radiator - give it a passable look

A bright color will help hide handicraft flaws - protruding seams, uneven edges, distortions, dents, roughness. But first, it is advisable to slowly take the grinder with your own hands and carefully walk from all sides along all the noticed irregularities and seams, until smooth transitions are formed. Take a drill with a brush in your hands and... clean everything until it shines (glasses are always required).

Then the usual procedure for painting the metal:

Water with orthophosphoric acid for 3-5 hours, clean with a broom.
Coat with a high-quality primer for metal, but for use inside residential premises and heated surfaces!
Paint with paint for batteries, for interior works, withstand heat, bright colors, for example, blue, white, red - a sight to behold, or for example, mother of pearl and crimson through a stripe...

Do not show at exhibitions - such a radiator can cause the black envy of designers...

This question is most often asked by computer scientists, and not always professional ones. The fact is that many system units have an aluminum radiator installed. It cools the hardware quite normally in a state of not very active operation, but when running many modern games it is no longer able to cope with its work. Therefore, sometimes you need to make a radiator from copper, a more thermally conductive metal. Of course, you can purchase it, but the cost of creating it yourself is much lower. To create a radiator at home, you will first need the material itself - highly thermally conductive metal. In this case it is copper. It is quite difficult to get it. You can contact non-ferrous metal collection points. What is needed is a thin sheet from which the radiator fins will be made. You also need to acquire metal scissors in advance.

To connect copper plates and form a solid sheet on one side, you will need a galvanic bath, for which you need to find a vessel that is resistant to aggressive environments. Before calculating the number of radiator sections, you need to measure the length and height of the area that will need to be cooled. The height or length, depending on whether the plates will be placed vertically or horizontally, must be marked so that the distance between the sections is 2-3 millimeters. Such frequent placement will achieve the best effect. Next, you need to take a thin sheet of copper and cut plates from it. If it changes aluminum radiator on copper, it is convenient to cut copper plates to the size of aluminum ones. That is, before replacing the radiator, you can create a more advanced object in its likeness. So, the cut copper plates are collected in a stack and, on one side, are joined together using galvanic bath. After this, you need to drill holes in all the plates for stringing them.

It is also important to separate the plates with wire, which must have insulation. If everything is done correctly, the plates will be overgrown on one side, and you will get a solid plane. Thus, the radiator base is ready, the plates are well separated. If the radiator was created for a computer, you must also drill holes corresponding system unit. Thus, before choosing a radiator in a store, you should think about whether it would be better to create it yourself? Yes, in appearance it will, of course, be inferior to the factory analogue. However, often factory radiators, especially those produced by small companies that value their reputation, cannot ensure the reliability of a home-made item. And in the case of radiators produced precisely under the sign famous brand, the price is usually radically inflated.

Reliable and high-quality heating radiators can be purchased at almost any hardware store. But sometimes situations arise in which the only thing the right decision are homemade heating radiators made from pipes. Of course, such radiators cannot be used on a permanent basis in a residential area, but, for example, they are quite suitable for heating a garage.

Do-it-yourself heating battery made from pipes

Design features of a homemade battery

We will make the battery from a 2-meter steel pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters. Both ends of the product must be welded, and a pair of squeegees must be welded directly on its plane, through which the working fluid will be supplied and discharged from the heating network.

What will the job require?

For making homemade heating radiator we will need the following equipment and Consumables.

Welding machine, electrodes for it	A pair of special bends of the required diameter	Bulgarian
Sheet of steel 3 mm thick and dimensions 10x60 cm	VGP steel pipe 0.3 m long	Steel pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 20 cm

Having prepared everything necessary, we proceed directly to the manufacture of the battery.

Instructions for making a heating radiator

In order to obtain an effective and quality product, you need to do everything strictly according to the technological instructions. Of course, we start by cutting a large steel pipe using a grinder.

After all preparatory activities checking finished design for strength and tightness. In order to check whether the radiator is leaking, we close one of its flows, and fill the second with the required amount of liquid. In this simple way we can identify even the most minor leaks in the battery. And if they - leaks - are detected, then we drain the water from the product and re-weld all its areas that were welded poorly.

Note! The cost of such a homemade battery is measured in several hundred rubles, while a “store-bought” analogue will cost at least three times more.

Video - How to make a heating battery

Important points

Before you begin manufacturing, you should understand a number of important points regarding this important procedure. So, first you need to make a list necessary materials and decide on the configuration of the future battery. As a rule, no difficulties arise with materials: the most suitable option for making a radiator – metal pipes having the maximum possible diameter.

But in order to save on this it is vital necessary material We recommend going to the nearest scrap metal collection point - there are more than enough different pipes there. This simple “maneuver” will allow you to save a lot.

Note! The most important characteristic of any heating equipment– this is its power (in terms of heat transfer). However, it is impossible to find out technical specifications each of the materials. That is why in our calculations we will proceed from the general parameters of standard cast iron radiators.

It is worth noting that to calculate power, the following points must be taken into account:

battery weight;
the weight of the working fluid that will be in it;
total area of the heating device;
thermal conductivity.

If we compare the thermal parameters of steel and cast iron, there are practically no differences. Therefore, regardless of which material was chosen, we will start from general characteristics both materials.

The most important difference between a factory battery and a “homemade” one is the total area. For self-made devices it is usually less. Although this moment is not particularly important, since the thermal conductivity of steel exceeds that of cast iron. Consequently, the difference in area is compensated.

Example of calculations.

For informational purposes, here is one simple example. Let's say we have a factory cast iron radiator for ten registers, and each of them holds about 1.5 liters of working fluid. Thermal power one register is 160 watts. What is all this for? And in order to comparative analysis we found that a homemade battery must hold at least 14.5 liters of working fluid.

To make a homemade heating radiator from pipes, you need to use an ordinary steel pipe about 10 centimeters in diameter. As for the thickness of the walls of the product, it should be 0.35 centimeters. It turns out that the internal diameter of such a pipe will be equal to 9.5 centimeters. Next, we calculate the total cross-sectional area of the product - it turns out to be almost 71 centimeters.

After this, we make the simplest division of the total capacity by the cross-sectional area (71 centimeters) - this will allow us to determine the required length of the pipe. In this case it is 2 meters 5 centimeters. A product of this exact length will be required in the manufacture of one heating battery.

Installing a homemade battery

Installing a radiator done by yourself requires not only basic knowledge in the field of installation processes, but also some experience in this kind of matter. And in order for everything necessary actions were performed correctly, we must take care of all the necessary equipment in this case.

Tape measure	A set of keys for assembly	Electric drill, as well as a set of drills for it
Pencil	adjustable wrench	Building level

And only when we have all the equipment at hand can we safely begin to work. But before this, of course, you should dismantle the old heating devices (if any). The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Replacing heating batteries in an apartment

Previously, we talked in detail about how to change old battery in the apartment, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Here's how the installation will be done heating system(briefly). We mark out fasteners for radiators and perform installation. We install the radiator(s) on the prepared fasteners. Then we complete the heating system with everything necessary elements, that is, taps and plugs. After this, we install the head with the tap in place (the latter is necessary to activate it). The final step will be connecting the new radiator (or radiators) to the main heating line. Now let's take a closer look at how all this should look.

Video - Installing heating radiators

Possible installation errors

In order to avoid any technical difficulties after installation, it is necessary to provide for common errors that are often made during operation. So, if you install batteries less than 7 centimeters from the floor surface, then in the future we will be faced with the difficulty of not only cleaning underneath them, but also with heat exchange in the room. On the contrary, if you install the batteries higher than 15 centimeters, then, most likely, significant temperature changes will occur.

In addition, heat transfer may deteriorate if the radiator is installed close to the wall. Also, do not forget that you should not cover homemade heating radiators made from pipes decorative grilles– this will lead to a decrease in their power.

Replacing batteries

If radiators need to be replaced, then it is advisable to start work in warm time of the year. The fact is that the heating is turned off during this period, so dismantling/installation can be carried out without any difficulties. Often, replacement is required if the equipment wears out or, alternatively, if it is necessary to reduce the number of sections. By the way, we prepare not only the batteries for replacement, but also the wall surfaces located behind them.

Note! We putty, level and paint the walls before installation, since after installation, as noted above, this will not be possible.

Video - Replacing radiators

Comparison of types of heating batteries - looking for the best

Previously we reviewed and compared different kinds heating radiators, thereby identifying their positive and negative sides, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Factory-produced heating batteries

Radiators made from pipes are also produced by industry. These products are heating devices that consist of upper/lower manifolds. Both elements are connected by vertical tubes arranged in two or three rows. But fins, which often increase the usable area, are absent in this case. For heat exchangers, products with a diameter of 2.5 centimeters are used, and for collectors - 5 centimeters.

The maximum permissible pressure for such radiators is 12 atmospheres, and due to the fact that the surfaces of the pipes are galvanized, the products are more resistant to rust. The rolled steel used for this has a thickness of 0.15 centimeters. As for the layout in relation to collectors, it can be:

with perpendicular heat exchanger;
parallel.

If we take into account all the technical parameters, then tubular radiators must be used in public facilities and small apartment buildings. Thanks to attractive design such products will easily fit into any interior, and due to the fact that they do not have any sharp corners, they can be installed even in preschool/school institutions, as well as in medical institutions. Finally, thanks to the absence of fins, the procedure for cleaning surfaces from dust takes a matter of seconds.

That's all. Good luck with making the radiator and, of course, warm winters!