Why is the peony not blooming? Growing a peony, the subtleties of care. How to care for peonies in spring
Peonies are found in almost every garden - it is impossible not to love their beautiful fragrant flowers of various colors.
It is also important that the rather unpretentious peony bushes do not require much care from the gardener and tolerate harsh winters well.
Gardeners often propagate peonies by dividing the bush, and amateur collections are usually replenished at the expense of.
However, often on our bushes garden peonies seed pods are tied. This is a great opportunity to experiment with different types(, lactic-flowered peony, Wittmann peony, (Maryin root), etc.) to obtain their own seedlings. True, flowers from these young plants will have to wait several years.
Harvested peony seeds during storage quickly dry out and fall into a state of deep dormancy, losing their germination energy. Therefore, gardeners usually immediately put them in bowls (drop them in the garden) or on a prepared garden bed so that they do not dry out, and in winter they pass naturally. In this case, peony seeds wintered in the garden can germinate in the spring; although some peony seeds can sprout even after 2-3 years.
Now on sale you can find seeds of different types of peonies. It is very tempting for flower growers to sow them and grow them. flowering plants. And this is quite real, as the practical experience of many people passionate about peonies shows.
It is necessary to collect peony seeds when they are fully ripe and acquire the usual color for this species, but have not yet spilled out of bursting leaflets.
Peony seeds should be sown soon after harvest, preventing the seeds from drying out and going into deep dormancy, as this lengthens the germination period and increases the amount of work. All seeds with brown spots and other defects are carefully rejected. If you throw them into a glass of water, then the best seeds will be those that have sunk to the bottom. However, some of the floating seeds may also germinate.
It is very useful to hold peony seeds in a solution of heteroauxin for 10-15 hours (1 tablet per liter of water).
Sowing hybrid peony seeds directly into the ground is not worth it, as they germinate after 2 years. In addition, their germination is very low (no more than 20 percent), while when germinating indoors during the winter, it reaches 100 percent. Thus, a year is saved, and more new plants are obtained.
In winter, I germinate peony seeds in petri dishes. I put in them sterile moisture-absorbing material (gauze, cotton wool or filter paper), previously moistened with a solution of potassium permanganate, and a label.
When germinating peony seeds, a certain temperature regime(+25…+30 degrees during the day, +12…+16 degrees at night) until the roots appear, after that I sow them in pots.
For 1-2 months I keep the peony crops at + 8 ... + 10 degrees, then I maintain the temperature at + 18 ... + 20 degrees.
After 2-3 weeks, the first leaves will begin to appear on the peony seedlings.
It is necessary to ensure that the peony crops do not dry out and do not become waterlogged.
In spring or early summer (May-June), the grown peony seedlings are ready for planting in open ground.
Due to the lack of space, I plant young plants at a distance of 20-25 cm. On a well-fertilized bed, peonies are located before flowering at.
Peony seedlings bloom in different ways: usually in the 4-7th year, but often later.
Mikhail Ivanovich Akimov, peony breeder
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Need care already in early spring. Take care of your health lush bushes it is worth starting immediately after the retreat of winter, as soon as it thaws.
Taking cover
This event has a universal “recipe”: clean it up when the snow finally melts, night frosts disappear and a stable positive temperature is established. Opening the bushes is worth gradually by first letting them just get used to the temperature.
In order for the formed young buds that have become unaccustomed to the sun not to get burned, open them in cloudy weather, and then shade the bushes for the first time.
Inspection of bushes after winter
Before flowering, peonies should be fed at the rate of 15 g of saltpeter per 10 liters of water, and when the plant grows up, water the leafy part of the peony with mineral fertilizers. Adding one tablespoon of washing powder or soap shavings to the solutions helps not to roll top dressing from the leaves immediately into the ground.
Did you know?It is customary to give peonies on the twelfth wedding anniversary.
Support
Peony bushes during flowering sag under the weight of the tied buds, so during this period it is necessary to take care of the props for the bushes. To do this, you can use wooden rods bent into an arch, plastic or metal fittings. If you are a beginner and have encountered this for the first time and suddenly, then the stems can be temporarily heaped up.
Mulching
Despite the fact that the peony has a rather spreading bush and the leaves create a shadow near the root area, the young plant needs additional. It is especially necessary to retain moisture after fertilizing. As mulch, you can use tree bark, hay, large stones. For peonies, it is best to use stones: this will also serve as a decor.
Preventive treatment
Usually, 2-3 preventive treatments are carried out with an interval of one and a half to two weeks: the first is watering when buds appear; the next two are spraying the plants with one of the solutions below. Often stems and leaves suffer, leaves and, it is these that can ruin a whole bush in a matter of days.
Also, a lot of harm can be done to peonies: which they carry, can destroy not only the ovaries of the buds, but also the crop of the adjacent ones. From peonies, the following means are most often used.
Did you know? The peony has been the state flower of Indiana (USA) since 1957.
Peony is a beautiful and long-lived perennial with large fragrant flowers. If the grower does not know why the peonies do not bloom, what to do in this situation, then it is useful to consider all possible reasons. These may be landing errors, improper care or lack of nutrients.
New leaves grow, but there are no buds, or they crumble without blooming. This situation should not be surprising in the first year of planting. There is a simple and natural explanation - biological features plants. There is an accumulation of nutrients, the formation of the root system.
Some varieties of peonies in the second year after planting bloom incompletely. In the third year, normal-sized flowers should appear, but in some cultivars this process is pushed back another year. Underdeveloped buds should be removed. After a year or two, you can leave large ones, cut off small, side ones.
Sometimes buds do not appear in the second and third years after transplantation. The weak bush is exhausted, has not adapted to the conditions of the new place. Often the absence of flowers is due to incorrect actions during planting and transplanting.
Reasons why the plant does not bloom
An unsuccessful landing site, incorrect deepening of the growth point are the two most common mistakes. The conditions on the site do not correspond to the biology of the plant, but flower growers may not be aware of this, or do not attach importance.
Wrong choice of location
Peonies come from areas of subtropical climate, where sunny weather prevails and there is enough moisture all year round. The area where the plants are planted may be too shaded or dry for them.
Peonies prefer good lighting, open areas but no drafts. With a lack of light, the number of buds is reduced or they do not appear at all.
Peonies are often planted too close to trees and shrubs, near walls and fences. Shading does not allow development herbaceous plant, and the roots are more large species take water and nutrients from the soil. In such conditions, getting flowers is problematic. Neighborhood with trees is favorable when creating an openwork shade for herbaceous perennials, good watering and regular feeding.
Bushes of large size form a lot of leaves, which constantly need moisture. Therefore, too dry or waterlogged soil on the site is not suitable. Stagnation of water near the roots contributes to decay and the spread of disease. The composition of the soil is also important - peonies need a pH of at least 5.8 and no more than 7.
An interesting fact: peonies on heavy loams and chernozems bloom brighter and live longer. Bushes planted on light sandy soils bloom earlier, but quickly become obsolete.
Errors when planting a peony
Growth buds should be at a depth of 3-5 cm. If the plant deviates in one direction or another, the plant does not bloom. Too close to the soil surface is dangerous for the peony - the buds freeze. A strong deepening of the growing point lengthens the period of shoot formation and forces the plant to expend the forces necessary for flowering.
Wrong care
The appearance of a bud with its subsequent drying is a sign of mineral starvation. After feeding, the peony will gain strength and bloom the next year. You should not "feed" the bushes. Excess nitrogen fertilizers stimulates abundant growth of leaves, buds do not appear or open poorly and dry out. Peonies are fed at certain times, best of all after flowering, when new buds are formed.
Mistakes with watering or prolonged rains cause severe wetting of the buds. They do not bloom, are saturated with water and acquire Brown color. Drought prevents flowers from developing and reduces the number of buds that give rise to shoots for next year.
The main mistakes in breeding peony
Spring transplantation is undesirable, because the plant will definitely drop buds. There are other violations of agricultural cultivation, which negatively affect flowering. The division of the bush is carried out in late summer and early autumn. The pit for planting is made deep - at least 0.7 m.
An adult bush has a powerful root system supplying ground organs. However, the roots of older plants may rot. When the intensity of flowering of an adult peony decreases, the bush is dug up and inspected. If there are healthy buds on the roots, they are divided into parts and transplanted to another site.
It is undesirable to grow a peony for too long in one place. After transplant young plant allow to get stronger within 5-6 years.
The main mistakes when propagating a peony:
- Planting small or too large delenok
- Wrong choice of time frame
- Division of a bush under 5 years of age
- Planting delenok in place of the mother bush
When transplanting a peony, delenki with 3-5 reddish shoots bloom faster. An economical option - a root with 1-2 buds - will only lead to the fact that flowering will begin later than in 2 years.
What to do if peonies do not grow?
Annual abundant flowering peony depends on good care. This does not mean that you need to day and night in the garden. The less disturbed the peony is, the faster it accumulates nutrients and creates a microclimate in the depths of a powerful bush.
Peony should not be disturbed in the spring during the period of cleaning old leaves and debris. By negligence, you can injure the buds and roots of the plant. Watering is carried out 3-4 times per season (taking into account the amount of atmospheric moisture). The soil is loosened, weeds around the bush are removed. If necessary, tie or install props.
After flowering, the plant also needs care, as the next year's shoots are laid.
In autumn, the leaves are pruned just before the frost at a height of 10 cm above the soil. Above ground parts of the plant are not used for compost, so as not to spread fungal and bacterial diseases. Branches and leaves are burned or otherwise destroyed.
How to feed peonies to improve flowering
Additional nutrition is necessary for young and adult plants. Mineral and organic fertilizers are mixed with the soil and added to the planting hole, so in the first two years the peony needs less feeding. After three years of life, the plant needs top dressing for normal flowering.
The plan for applying mineral fertilizers:
- In early spring, on the melting snow around the bush, they scatter potassium nitrogen fertilizer. They dissolve well and penetrate to the awakened roots.
- During the budding period, a complex fertilizer, such as ammophoska, is applied under each bush.
- Two weeks after flowering, make phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, the most important for laying new kidneys. You can feed with phosphorus and potassium in the fall, the nutrient will gradually penetrate into the soil.
Organic fertilizer for peonies
Plants are fed with slurry diluted with water. However, excess nitrogen in this organic fertilizer causes a strong overgrowth of bushes. Folk remedy to replenish the supply of nutrients - fermented Rye bread. Half the loaf is cut and soaked in water for ½ day. It turns out a thick mass, which is diluted in a bucket of water. Water the solution with young sprouts that appear in the spring on the surface of the earth. Such top dressing will favorably affect the flowering of the peony in the current and next year.
After correcting the errors that delay flowering, peony bushes will consistently delight with the magnificence of blossoming buds for at least 10 years. This will require regular watering and prevention of so-called care diseases.
With what awe and delight we look after a long winter at the first sprouts emerging from the earth warmed by the spring sun. Peony shoots are especially good during this period. We look forward to when the leaves unfold on them and the buds appear. We sigh with relief - it means that the flowering festival will take place. And again doubts: will the flower itself be pleasant, will it justify our hopes and such a long wait, sometimes even more than one year? Such strong feelings make gardening a passion that is hard to give up.
So, we have already dreamed and sighed enough, it's time to get down to business - we will work for the result.
To begin with, as soon as the soil thaws, remove the winter mulch from young plantings of peonies (remember the beacons recommended from autumn?). Do this carefully, with your hands, being careful not to damage the sprouts. If compost was used as mulch, simply move it to the periphery and leave it in place as additional nourishment. Shoots of species peonies (p. tenuifolia, p. officinalis, p. anomala, etc.) and varieties of interspecific hybrids appear the very first, and the very last - late varieties peony lactiflora. Therefore, when you see that everything is “earing” around, and some peonies have not yet appeared, do not worry and do not rush to “get to the bottom of the truth” - you can break the sprouts and push back flowering for a year or more (own bad experience). Wait until the beginning of June, and there you will sound the alarm (more on that later).
Peonies that wintered in pots are best planted on permanent place- Right now. You should not keep them until autumn in containers: the roots will not receive enough oxygen and nutrition, they may rot. In addition, because of the limited space, everyone will be confused with each other. This will negatively affect the subsequent growth of the peony, its flowering, and will also make it difficult to further process division of the rhizome.
After the sprouts are freed from the mulch, we introduce a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements into the grooves made around the bush: BonaForte spring-summer or Terrasol spring-summer. Under bushes older than 4 years - 2 tbsp. spoons, and 2-3-year-olds need 1 tbsp. spoons, spill a little. We feed the peonies of last year's planting by the leaves, as soon as they unfold: for 1 liter of water - 2 drops of HB-101 or 1 ampoule of Cytovit plus 1 Alirin tablet. Such foliar top dressing We will do it again in mid-June. This stimulates the development of the root system and the laying of full-fledged flower buds for the next year. If peonies are planted late autumn, they must be additionally shed with root (10 g per 10 l).
Many opuses have been written about the benefits of mulch. Let me just say that the peonies love it! In the second half of May, I mulch all peony beds. To do this, I use mowed grass, nettles rich in composition, dandelions, alfalfa, clover, lupins. I find all this “wealth” in my garden, in a roadside ditch and in a field behind a plot. Such mulch quickly overheats, turning into precious vermicompost. At good care peonies grow exponentially, showing magnificent blooms year after year.
Novice gardeners often have a question: is it necessary to remove the buds on peonies planted last year and this spring, because you really want to look at the flower and make sure that there is no oversorting? Considering my own experience, as well as the experience of many pion growers, I advise you to definitely delete it! There are a number of reasons for this: in the first year, the peony is focused on the formation of new roots, it is necessary to give him the opportunity to do it well, and the flower that he will drive out on “old stocks” will hardly look like a reference photo from the catalog - this will unnecessarily upset and disappoint you. Wait another year for flowering, especially since many self-respecting firms accept claims for a possible re-grading within 24 months. Pinch the bud as soon as the peony stem reaches its maximum height and stop growing.
Regular, once a week, watering during the dry season is very important for a peony, especially at the budding stage and after flowering, when new buds are laid for the next year. Do not forget to water the buried peonies in containers.
In the first decade of July, apply a fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus and potassium (0.5 cups) under adult bushes. It can be any complex mineral fertilizers, intended for autumn feeding. Feed young bushes and peonies in containers with a solution of potassium monophosphate (2 tsp per 10 liters of water): 2 liters per bush and 1 glass per container.
Now a little about the dangers and troubles that you may encounter on the way to getting a luxurious peony bush and how to overcome them.
This is, first of all, a disease of gray rot. It manifests itself in rainy, cool summers, especially on acidic, heavy, poorly aerated soils. It affects young shoots, leaves, buds and roots. The buds turn brown and do not develop. Dark spots form on stems and leaves. brown spots which lead to their shrinkage and death. Keep a close eye on peonies in containers. In principle, if you have followed all the recommendations for container content "from and to", the risk of disease is minimized. If you notice warning signs, treat the plant with HOM or Abiga-Peak as soon as possible (according to instructions). With the progression of the disease, it is necessary to completely cut off the diseased stem, sprinkle the cut with HOM or “burn” with undiluted Vitaros, greenery. change upper layer soil in a pot. Do not panic right away if you have to remove all the stems, your task is to prevent the penetration of gray rot into the root collar. Yes, the peony will weaken, but it will remain alive. I advise, if possible, to transplant it from the container into open ground as soon as possible. By the middle of summer, short shoots will grow from sleeping buds that will help the peony lay buds for the next year.
In the garden, start prevention as soon as the shoots appear. Actively use biological preparations: Alirin, Sporobacterin, Fitosporin-M, about once every 2 weeks. They not only protect plants from pathogenic fungi, but are also good growth stimulants. At least once a season, carry out foliar top dressing with Siliplant (0.5 tsp per 1 liter of water), which contains a high percentage of silicon, which increases mechanical strength tissues and has pronounced fungicidal properties. For bushes that “particularly distinguished themselves” last season, spray twice with an interval of 10 days with any copper-containing preparations (HOM, Abiga-Peak, Ordan).
Another possible nuisance is that June has already arrived, and the shoots of the peony planted last year have not yet appeared. There are two main reasons here: root rot(poor quality planting material, a damp place, they were too lazy to sanitize before planting) and freezing of the kidneys (in a snowless frosty winter due to the lack of mulch, or the kidneys could start growing with a long rainy autumn). In this case, it is necessary to carry out “archaeological excavations” - carefully, with your hands, using a brush and a thin stick, as if you have discovered a priceless “artifact”, remove the peony, rinse and evaluate its condition. If the root neck is soft, with large quantity necrotic (dark) tissue, then you will have to part with the peony. If this is one of the “coral” hybrids (“Coral Sunset”, “Coral Charm”), separate the healthy part of the root (rub the sections with ash) and plant in a separate bed. It is likely that in the future buds will form on it, and the peony will be able to recover. If everything is in order with the root neck, it is urgent to remove the dead buds so that the rot does not penetrate inside, clean out all suspicious dark spots on the roots (if possible, keep the thin suction roots), soak in Vitaros for 2 hours, sprinkle the slices with HOM. Plant it again, install a “beacon” and cover with a cut five-liter bottle. A peony can sprout from dormant buds, or maybe, having formed new ones, it will “oversleep” until next spring.
Peonies are very hardy plants that can develop and bloom for many years with little care. But, if at one time you pay them attention worthy of the kings of flowers, you won’t even recognize the “pooch” from your neighbor, let alone modern varieties and hybrids, many of which show all the beauty of a flower only against a high agrotechnical background.
Take more pictures of your beauties, share your luck on the Internet, collect all possible “likes”, get inspired yourself and inspire others!
The tree peony does not grow.
Reasons for stopping your growth tree peony maybe four:
1. Wrong fit.
Tree peony prefers light, nutritious soil with a slightly alkaline reaction. Acid, peaty, clayey, marsh, heavy soils are not suitable for them. Does not tolerate stagnant water, direct contact of the roots with humus. Too shallow planting has a bad effect on the state of the plant - it is better to deepen it, this contributes to better preservation of the renewal buds in winter and the formation of new shoots and roots. Very common error when buying peonies with closed root system: when planting, they do not loosen the earthen ball and do not straighten the curled roots. As a result, the roots remain in the same position and cannot develop normally. Preferred buy peonies with an open root system, which allows you to objectively assess its condition, and in case of any problems, immediately take action.
2. Wrong choice of location.
You should not plant a peony on the north side of buildings, near a drain, in the shade, in wind-blown places, in microrelief depressions where it stagnates cold air and water. With a high occurrence (above 2 meters), drainage in the landing pit will be required.
3. Diseases.
In our damp climate, peonies are greatly harmed by various fungal diseases – gray and white rot affecting the base of the leaves, leaf spot. You need to fight them by spraying at the beginning of growth and the appearance of leaves (first treatment), budding (second) and the end of flowering (third). Copper preparations are usually recommended for processing - 60-70 grams blue vitriol per 10 liters of water, foundationol - 20-30 grams per 10 liters of water.
4. Pests.
Larvae Maybug, bears, wireworms and other earth-digging animals not only damage themselves, they also contribute to the infection of the roots with various rots.
Therefore, in your situation, the solution of the problem should be approached comprehensively: if the matter is in the wrong choice of place and planting, change the “place of registration” of the bush, preparing a new landing pit according to all requirements. Provide and make dolomite flour, chalk crumbs or crushed slaked lime (200-400 grams per 1 m2).
In any case, in the spring, you should carefully dig out the bush and carefully examine it for diseases and pest damage. If there are any, cut out the damaged areas with a sharp one, powder the sections with crushed coal or foundation. It has a very good effect on the well-being of plants treated with the Epin biostimulant. The main thing is to take the Belarusian Epin, preferably produced by the Institute of Bioorganic Chemistry, not Russian.
