When the plaster is applied to the surface and the walls have been preliminary leveled, it remains to apply the finishing layer with putty mixture in order to prepare for wallpapering, painting or other decoration.

And what is needed in order to do this as correctly as possible and not resort to the services of workers, find out further in the article.

In the photo - a wall ready for wallpaper after puttying and applying primer

WHAT THE INDUSTRY OFFERS US

So, how to treat the walls after plastering? Each putty option is used in certain areas, which often intersect with each other.

Let's take a closer look at the materials.

1. Cement - a dry mix in bags, which is used to seal joints and finish leveling brick and concrete walls for painting. Can be used externally as a solution on water based. With its help, you can create a layer of 2-7 mm, its price is the lowest.

Preparation of cement putty

1. Gypsum - crushed gypsum powder in which there are some additives. Environmentally friendly "breathable" material, which has found application only for interior decoration. Before use, it is diluted with water to the density of sour cream. Three types are offered:
   • fugue - does not shrink, is used for sealing plasterboard joints;
   • starting - has a coarse grinding, which makes it possible to create a layer of 5-20 mm. It can replace plaster when leveling walls using plaster guide rails (beacons). Does not shrink when dried;
   • finishing - a mixture of very fine grinding, makes it possible to create a layer of 0.5-3 mm. Gives big shrinkage when dry, so a thickness of more than 2 mm must be done with care.

Application of plaster putty

1. Acrylic - available as thick ready mix in a sealed container. Very plastic, gives the chance to receive ideal smoothness that is very important for further coloring of a surface, forms a thin layer.

Working with acrylic putty

There are some features of its compositions.

For example, when the wall will subsequently be pasted over with wallpaper, it is not advisable to use this putty:

• it is not necessary to display the surface under them;
• the acrylic layer under liquid glue can become soft and lag behind the wall along with the wallpaper.

HOW TO PREPARE A SOLUTION FOR GYPSUM PUTTY

Please note that the gypsum mixture must be properly prepared, since the surface must be immediately processed. After 40 minutes, the material will become hard and impossible to work with.

Tools for the job

Prepare a clean, wide container, such as a plastic bucket, and fill it up to a third cold water. Add putty to it with a trowel until it stops sinking. Stir the solution until smooth with a drill with a mixer nozzle. After that, the latter should be washed immediately.

Tip: do not apply the mixture to the surface immediately, let it brew for about 5 minutes.

HOW TO LEVEL SURFACES CORRECTLY WITH PUTTY

Consider the sequence of plastering work and the technique of their implementation.

1. Evaluate the curvature of the walls to understand how they align to the level. To do this, prepare a rule more than a meter long or a piece of drywall.
2. Apply them to the surfaces with your hands in different directions and different places. So you can determine where working surface has dips or bulges:
   • when the differences are large more than 50 mm, you will have to;
   • if the differences are 10-50 mm, they can be leveled with spatulas using the starting mixture;
   • with a wall curvature of no more than 10 mm, use only finishing putty.

To seal a smooth plaster surface, it will be enough to apply 1-2 layers of a finishing or acrylic mixture.

Checking the walls for curvature with a building level

Advice: before processing the wall, decide whether the electrician will be installed before or after the plaster. It depends on how the cable is laid - hidden or open.

CORRECTLY APPLY PUTTY

The basic technology will be proposed below, so each master with practice has his own. However, without prior knowledge, this will be quite difficult to achieve.

Prepare the corners for puttying the walls, making them as even as possible:

• internal - for this you can use paper tape with two aluminum strips. It allows the corners to be quite easily made perfectly even;
• outdoor - perfect perforated aluminum corner, which is fixed with plaster mortar.

Closing corners

When applying a putty layer, there is no need to use beacons or reinforcing meshes. However, there are other specific features that should be known and taken into account.

For example, using tools:

• the main rule - be sure to clean it using hard brushes after use and rinse with water;
• you need to use two spatulas at the same time - the main and auxiliary. The first is intended for applying the solution to the surface, the second - a set of putty from the container and removing excess from the main tool.

Tip: do not be afraid to use, after some practice you will understand that it is more convenient to work with them.

Technique

1. The subsequent coat should be applied after the primer has dried, which most often should be applied to the surface. Due to it, the adhesion between materials is significantly increased.
2. Apply finishing materials, as well as plaster, should be from the corners - internal or external.
3. Pull the putty from dry to wet, i.e. newly applied layer. This technology makes it possible not to leave marks from the tool on the leveled areas.

Surface putty technique

1. If the unevenness of the plaster layer is wavy and is placed horizontally, the putty should be applied in vertical stripes, and vice versa.
2. Use an auxiliary spatula to spread the solution on the blade of the main tool. Then stretch it in a wide motion over the surface. Then remove the excess from the spatula and with a clean blade in the opposite direction, compact and level the surface.

GRINDING

The last step is surface grinding. For gypsum putty, sanding nets or sandpaper of large numbers are used. Work should be done only when the surface is completely dry.

If you need to wipe the plaster mortar, we will dwell on it in more detail. Below is a step-by-step work explaining how to wipe the walls after plastering.

Prepare:

• wooden grater;
• brush to remove dust;
• a hammer;
• trowel.

1. Wait for the plaster to dry slightly before grouting. It is recommended to use a wooden grater, because plastic ones are not as effective and durable.

Tip: make sure that the mixture is still damp at the time of grouting so that it does not need to be moistened with water.

1. Make sure that when the wood is abraded, drive the nails deeper in time, for which use a hammer. Hold a grater in one hand, and a brush in the other, which should be used to remove emerging and settling dust from the surface. Grouting movements should be circular counterclockwise, not longitudinal. That's what it's called - round grout.
2. During the process, the grater cuts off various bumps and fills them in depressions on the surface of the plaster. Therefore, it is not desirable that the material does not dry out completely and still has the ability to set.

Surface grinding

1. Press on the grater at the points of large bumps, and on flat places it should be slightly reduced.

Tip: Don't throw away grout that settles on the edges of the grater. Clean it into a container, it will come in handy when you need to grease the surface somewhere.

1. Remember simple rules grouts:
   • clean the solution from the edges of the grater in time, otherwise it will fall off and scatter in different directions;
   • moisten the finish with water when it is very dry and unworkable, but do not allow the solution to become very thin from splashing.

1. The final stage of surface preparation after troweling, the use of special floats that improve the final result and make it smoother. To do this, it is recommended to use tools with a rubber base. medium size. When preparing the wall for painting, it is recommended to use a special metal trowel.

Using a wide spatula

PUTTY LAYERS

The difficult question is how many layers should be applied to the surface, which cannot be unambiguously answered. If you manage to cope with one - excellent, you should not continue further. Often there are places where you have to apply more layers than in the rest.

Tip: do not rush to apply the next layer, wait until the previous one is completely dry.

Although the processing of walls after plastering with putty is a difficult and even somewhat creative stage of any repair, it will be possible to master the initial skills of working with two spatulas after half an hour or an hour. After that, you will do everything almost automatically.

CONCLUSION

After applying the plaster layer, there are several ways further development repair - prepare the surface for wallpapering, painting, decorative plaster or tile. Each situation needs to be handled differently.

In this article, the main actions after the plastering of the walls were considered. The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.

The final processes of finishing plaster are coating and grouting. Instead of grouting, plaster is often smoothed down. The cleanliness of the finished surface largely depends on the quality of the prepared coating solution. Well-prepared on fine sand of normal fat content, the mortar is easily, quickly and cleanly rubbed or smoothed, which increases the productivity of plasterers. To prepare the coating solution, fine-grained sand is used. Coarse-grained sand is of little use, as it gives a rough, rough texture.

Mortar preparation and coating application

The homogeneity of the mortar plays an important role both in the process of its application and in the grout. If in some places the coating solution is fatter and, conversely, the grout will have a different purity. Therefore, attached or ready solutions it is necessary to sift through a fine sieve before applying and mix again. The coating is performed with a solution of the same composition as the previously applied layers of plaster. Grease solutions give a rougher surface, with large quantities nataskov and unruined stripes. These solutions are more suitable for smoothing. Lean solutions are not strong enough and are poorly overwritten.

For 12 - 20 minutes before applying the coating, the surface of the applied solution should be moistened with water. With moistened soil, the coating adheres more strongly, due to which the formation of a monolithic plaster crust is achieved. The solution is applied to the surface of walls and ceilings in thin layers and leveled with trowels. The cleaner and more thoroughly the mortar is leveled, the easier it will be to grout.

Nakryvka can also be applied from the falcon by spreading. To avoid puttying and to paint directly on the plaster, a sandless coating is used. It is made from lime paste and gypsum. Lime dough is taken with a density with a draft of a standard cone of 12 cm.

Gypsum and lime paste are passed through a sieve with holes no larger than 1 x 1 mm. When preparing a new portion of the coating, the lime dough is well mixed so that it has a uniform density.

• Wet...........1:3
• Slightly damp..1:2
• Dry.............1:1

The solution is prepared in small portions without gypsum setting retarders. Slightly set or rejuvenated solution is not used.

The soil must be well leveled before applying the covering. If it is dry, then it is thoroughly moistened with water. The prepared solution is applied with a layer of 2 - 3 mm, leveled and smoothed with metal trowels. When joining the cap, the edge of the previously applied section of the solution is cut at an angle of 30 and only a new portion of the solution is applied to the cut part.

Grouting plaster with floats

Grouting is performed round and round. Overclocking grout is cleaner, it is most often performed with high-quality plaster. Round grout is performed as follows. With one hand they take a grater, press the canvas against the surface of the plaster and make circular movements counterclockwise. Tubercles and irregularities are cut off with the ribs of a grater. The solution moving over the surface fills individual depressions and rubs the coating. Press the grater with different force: where the surface has a convexity, it is stronger, and where the concavity is weaker. In the process of grouting, the cut solution is collected on the edges of the grater. Periodically, it must be cleaned and used to grease the sinks. Over time, the coating dries up and rubs off with difficulty. To make it softer, the rubbed surface of the plaster should be periodically moistened with water using a petrified brush. When grouting the plaster in a circle, slightly noticeable circular traces remain on its surface without shells and grouting. Therefore, with high-quality finishes, round-round grout is supplemented with overrunning grout. Overclocking grouting is done like this. A grater, well cleaned of the solution, is pressed tightly against the surface and begins to make straight movements with it - strokes. Thus, all traces of rubbing around are eliminated.

Overclocking grouting is best done after round grouting. Having rubbed a small surface (0.5 - 1 m) in a circle, it should also be rubbed in a run. If the surface of the plaster, rubbed in a circle, has dried up, then it is moistened with water, and then rubbed over. After grouting, there should be no scratches, shells, rubbing, notches, bumps and other defects on the surface of the plaster. When grouting walls up to 4 m high, they should have only one joint, for which the grout is carried out in two strokes: one from the top from the ceiling to the floor scaffolding. The cleaner the surface is rubbed, the less it requires corrections during painting work.

The quality of the worn surfaces must meet the following requirements. When grouting in a circle, the circular traces left by the grater should be of the same size without grout, unrubbed places, gaps, shells, protirin, tubercles. With skillful grouting over the coating with a solution on fine sand, staining is often performed without putty.

Smoothing plaster with trowels.

The process of smoothing the covering with trowels differs little from the work of a trowel when leveling the mortar with it. Smoothing is done in two ways. In the first case, the applied coating is first leveled with wooden trowels, and then smoothed with a trowel in one or two directions. The pressing force on the trowel is adjusted so that after its passage along the cover there are no traces left. On the walls, the covering is first smoothed in the vertical direction (from the floor to the ceiling), and then in the horizontal direction (along the length or width of the floor). On the ceiling, first smoothing is performed across the rays of light coming from the windows, and then in their direction.

In the second case, the covering solution is smeared and leveled at the same time, and then it is smoothed down. When smoothing, work is best done by two people. One applies the mortar and smoothes it, and the other smoothes it.

When smoothing down with a rubber trowel, the surfaces look like fine sandy textures. When smoothing with metal trowels, the surface of the plaster becomes as if iron. Since the sandless coating is applied in a thin layer, there should be no defects on its surface. A well-worn coating has a fine-grained smooth texture that does not require puttying with a simple color. This increases the productivity of painters and reduces the cost finishing works.

Plastering works. Shepelev.A.M.

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Plaster grout - practical guide with explanations

How and why plaster is grouted, what tool is used for this purpose. You will learn about this and much more from the article and not only get acquainted with the technology finishing, but you can also do the described work with your own hands.

Why grout is needed

Illustrations	Reasons for grouting concrete walls and floors
	Leveling the plastered surface. Contraction of rough plaster by the rule does not ensure optimal quality for the subsequent application of putty. By rubbing, you level the surface, reduce the consumption of putty and simplify the work associated with its application.
	Putty grouting (grinding). After the last finishing layer has been applied to the wall to be finished, you need to wait for the putty to dry, and then remove all the irregularities. For grinding, a grater with sandpaper or a diamond mesh is used.
	Application decorative plaster . There are ways decorative design, in which the required texture of the applied mixture is attached with a special grater. By working with a float, you can apply horizontal vertical and even circular patterns. A typical example is bark beetle plaster.

Grout technology

Illustrations	Technological methods for grouting
	manual method. Manual processing of plaster is applied on surfaces with a small area. The manual method is suitable both for smoothing rough plaster and for applying mixtures with a decorative effect.
	mechanized method. This method involves the use of mechanical equipment with a rotating disc. Advantage mechanical method, in comparison with manual, it is higher productivity and better surface finish. The mechanical method, like the manual method, is suitable for both ordinary and decorative plaster. But the use of a rotating disk decorative trim allows you to apply only a circular pattern.

Grouting tool

Illustrations	Hand tools and their description
	wooden grater. This is a classic solution that has long been used in the course of plastering. The advantage of the tool is its durability, since the grater cloth does not wear out for many years. The disadvantage of the tool is a lot of weight, from which hands get tired during prolonged work.
	styrofoam grater. This is the modern version wooden tool with the same configuration, but with less weight. The disadvantage of the tool is a small resource, since the foam sole is quickly erased. However, the low price of the tool allows you to replace it as needed. The most common and easy-to-use grater size is 120×240 mm.
	Sponge grater. it universal tool, which is used for wet leveling (washing) of plastered surfaces and tile joints.
	metal spatula. In fact, this is the same grater, but made of polished stainless steel. Due to the smooth sole, such a tool does not rub the plaster, but smoothes it. Therefore, it is preferable to apply a semi-liquid putty or covering mixture with a trowel.
	Spatula for putty. A wide spatula (from 40 cm) is used for smoothing gypsum plaster.
	Water spray gun. During leveling, the plaster layer gradually dries up, and therefore the sole of the grater and the surface to be treated are regularly moistened with water.
	Lighting. To achieve an acceptable quality of plaster, good lighting is needed. To do this, a floodlight is installed on the side of the leveled surface. At right direction of light, all missed irregularities will be noticeable.

Illustrations	Tools for mechanized grouting
	For vertical surfaces. Such plastering machines are used for wall finishing. The device is lightweight, as the machine has to be held in the hands during the entire working time. In devices of this type, an electric motor with a low degree of vibration is used, which greatly simplifies the alignment of plastered surfaces.
	For horizontal surfaces (floor screeds). These machines are characterized by increased dimensions and weight, and are used for smoothing floor screed in large rooms. The use of such aggregates is advisable on almost dry grounds.

Methods for manual grouting of cement-sand plaster

For plastering works by hand, two methods of surface treatment are used - round and round grouting. The difference between the two methods is in the direction in which the grater is carried.

With the circular method, the tool is guided with a slight pressure in a circular motion. When processing the surface in the acceleration, the tool moves up and down.

Practice shows that overclocking is more difficult than round-robin, but the result of the work done will be more accurate. If you need a perfectly flat surface, both methods are combined - first, the grout is performed in a circular manner, and then the smallest irregularities are removed during acceleration.

mechanized grout

Work is carried out on a dried cement surface, on average 2-5 hours after applying the mortar. The surface is wetted with water, and then wet cement screed we go through the trowel.

The smoothing of the screed is carried out in several passes. The number of passes is determined by the evenness of the base. With significant irregularities in the pits, we lay the coating - a cement-sand mixture, diluted to a creamy consistency.

Smoothing out irregularities on vertical walls is carried out according to the same principle as working on a screed. Large irregularities are filled with a mixture made thicker than the coating solution. During smoothing, we periodically moisten the cement surface with a sprayer. As the disk covered with felt or felt is filled, we clean off the sludge - the adhering mixture.

Gypsum plaster smoothing

Gypsum plaster, unlike cement plaster, is not overwritten, but smoothed out. This can be done with a metal trowel or a wide spatula.

The tool is applied to the plastered surface at an angle of 20-30 degrees and is pulled together from bottom to top. The tool is then moved horizontally from right to left and then from left to right.

The work is done on a still wet surface, so sludge will accumulate along the edge of the float - do not shake it off, as it will fill in small depressions.

Grouting decorative plaster

Rubbed "bark beetle" - decorative mixture which includes stone backfill (granite chips with a small fraction). During grouting, the crumb moves with a grater in the thickness of the plaster, as a result of which rectilinear or curvilinear patterns appear on the surface.

Giving this or that direction to the grater, you can give the necessary direction to the crumb and, as a result, form a pattern. By moving the grater vertically, you will get a vertical straight "bark beetle". By moving the grater in a circle, you will get a circular "bark beetle". The direction of the pattern in the circular "bark beetle" will depend on which direction the movements are directed - from left to right or from right to left.

Summing up

Grouting plaster is a very useful skill that is indispensable when carrying out finishing work both inside and outside the house. If you have any questions about leveling plaster surfaces, ask them in the comments to this article.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

One has only to make an effort, to try - and your walls will be re-plastered. And the main thing is that you will do it yourself, which will give you a completely legitimate reason for pride.

Today, there are two types of plaster - "wet" and "dry". "Wet" involves the application of various mortars to the walls (most often on gypsum or cement). "Dry" plaster, in fact, is not plaster, but is a sheathing of walls with sheets various materials– such as drywall, gypsum board, etc.

Despite the obvious advantages of the "dry" method, still quite often you have to resort to classic technologies: finishing small spaces, alignment of walls and ceilings in rooms with high humidity requires precisely "wet" plaster.

This material is devoted to this method of plastering. In it, we will try to give the most detailed answer to the question - how to plaster walls?

The first stage of plastering (as, indeed, of any other activity) is the preparation of walls for plastering.

Preparing the room for plastering

To begin with, we release the walls that we will plaster. To do this, we take out all the things from the room, and move the furniture to the center and cover plastic wrap, preferably - overlap.

Also, if we plaster the walls ourselves, we should take care of flooring- close it with polyethylene or fill it with a thick layer of sawdust. It is better to remove the lamp, and insulate the wires to prevent water from getting on them.

Then - proceed to cleaning the walls themselves. For plastering, we clean the walls to the ground. In order to facilitate the removal of whitewash, you can use a trick: first, we smear the wall with liquid paste, and after the paste dries, we clean it off together with whitewash using a metal spatula or a manual scraper.

If there are old ones on the wall, we soak them with water, and then we clean them with a scraper or a metal brush.

We embroider the cracks and chips found under the finish in the base (small ones - with a knife, for large ones we use a grinder), and fill it with a repair solution. Be sure to glue over the cracks plaster mesh or tape-"serpyanku".

Before plastering walls made of stone, brick or concrete, we perform a beating to a depth of about 10 mm - this will allow the plaster mortar to securely fix on the base. We beat off with the help of an old ax (it’s a pity for a new one - it will become dull!) Or a chisel. On 1m 2 you need to apply about a thousand notches.

notched wall

Often the question arises - how to plaster wooden walls?

In order for the laid plaster to adhere tightly to the wall on the wall, we upholster the wall with shingles - thin boards, chipped along the fibers from logs. We fill the fight in the form of a grid, driving the nail only up to half, and bending the other half.

Shingles for plaster

Instead of shingles, the technology of plastering walls from allows a metal mesh, which is stuffed onto a cleaned wall.

Note! The mesh must be protected from rust, so the mesh must be painted and dried by stuffing.

Exposure of lighthouses

Hanging walls

In order for the wall to be plastered evenly, so-called beacons are installed on it. Before plastering walls on beacons, you need to decide how these beacons can be installed?

For this, several methods are used. Below we give a description of one of the simplest - using a beacon profile.

• To begin with, using a long level or plumb line, we check the verticality of the wall.
• Then, at the top and bottom of the wall in each corner, we drive in a dowel (it is possible to screw a self-tapping screw into the pre- drilled hole). After that, we tie a fishing line strictly vertically to the dowels - we also set it according to the level.

If plastering of plasterboard walls is carried out, dowels should not be used!

• Focusing on two vertical fishing lines, we stretch horizontal ones along the wall - in the same way, with the help of dowels (self-tapping screws) and a level. For a house wall with a height of 2.5 to 3 meters, four horizontals are enough.
• Focusing on the fishing line, on the plaster mortar or putty (preferably with expired suitability - and it’s not a pity, and it seizes quickly) we install beacon profiles. To do this, under the fishing line, we form a series of slides from the solution, into which we press the profile. The profile, pressed to a sufficient depth, should be in contact with the fishing line, but not move it away.
• After the vertical beacons are installed, we install horizontal beacons using the same technology. We check the entire grid of beacons with the help of a level - they must be in the same plane.

After the surface of the walls is prepared for plastering, and the beacons are installed, you can proceed to the preparation of the plaster mortar. Consider how to prepare a solution for plaster.

Solutions for plastering walls

plaster mortar

Most often, the wall plastering technique involves the application of three layers of plaster mortar.

The first layer is "splatter". For him, we prepare a creamy solution, which we will throw on the surface. For wooden walls the spray layer is a maximum of 9 mm, for concrete or brick - 5 mm.

The second layer is soil. The solution has a pasty consistency and is applied in a layer of about 10 mm.

The third layer (finish) is called a covering. We prepare the covering layer on fine-grained sand, sifting it on a sieve with a cell of 1.5x1.5 mm. The consistency of the filling should be creamy.

Plaster solutions are prepared on the basis of cement, lime or gypsum. The least durable is lime plaster, and most - cement-based mortar.

The most popular solutions are:

• Cement mortar: 1 part cement to 3 parts sand
• Cement-lime mortar: 1 part cement, 5 parts sand, 1 part lime mortar
• Lime mortar: 3 parts sand to 1 part lime mortar
• Gypsum-lime mortar: 1 alabaster (dry gypsum) for 3 parts of lime dough

If it is planned to plaster the walls with cement mortar, then the mortar must be used no later than one hour after preparation.

Stucco sketch

Gypsum solutions must be prepared in small portions - gypsum sets quickly, so the solution must be immediately after preparation.

If we use ready-made plaster mixtures for the preparation of the mortar, then the best thing we can do is strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging.

Technique for applying plaster on walls

After the necessary solution is prepared, you can start applying the plaster solution.

If we plaster the walls with our own hands, then it would be useful to familiarize ourselves with the basic techniques and techniques for applying plaster.

• The first layer of plaster - spray - is applied with a trowel. In order to properly spray the wall, we collect a small amount of solution on the trowel, and from a short distance we make a sharp wave with the hand. If the swing is too strong, and the movement is too sweeping, then most of the solution will be splashed, and not hit the wall.
• We apply a primer layer on top of the spray. Due to its consistency, it can be applied with a wide spatula or float. Depending on the thickness of the plaster layer, the primer is applied in one or several steps. If we plaster on lighthouses, then upper layer the soil can be leveled by drawing a rule along the lighthouse rails.

  Plastering lighthouses using the rule

• We apply the coating on top of wet soil, which has not yet had time to dry. If the primer is dry, it must be moistened with a brush before applying the coating.

After the coating dries, we use a wooden or plastic float to grout the plaster. The grout is made by circular movements of the grater counterclockwise, strongly pressing the plane against the plastered surface.

After finishing grouting with a grater upholstered with felt or felt, the plastering of the walls in the apartment can be considered complete!

We hope that if you carefully study these tips and follow them when carrying out repairs, then plastering the walls with your own hands will not be difficult for you!

Plastering walls with cement mortar - technology

Wall plastering with cement mortar usually produced if there are any significant defects (cracks, irregularities) on their surfaces. After the walls are plastered, they proceed to their primer, and then painting.

There are three main types of plastering work:

• high quality (if you plan to paint the walls in the future);
• improved (for subsequent wallpapering of walls);
• simple (for further puttying the walls).

Cement is a binder that hardens in air and water. It is obtained by grinding mineral additives and clinker. To receive you need to building mixture Pozzolanic Portland cements, slag Portland cements, non-shrinking and expanding cements, aluminous cements are used. The most common are Portland cement and alumina.

You can determine the quality of cement in this way: you need to take a small amount of dry matter in your hand and squeeze it. The one that will get enough sleep through your fingers - good quality, and the one in which lumps (the size of a pea) will form during compression - bad. Store cement in a dry place inaccessible to sunlight.

For the preparation of cement mortar, it is best to use natural aggregates ( river sand). If it is not possible to purchase river sand, then ravine or mountain sand should be thoroughly rinsed with water before using it as an aggregate.

For plastering walls with cement mortar, cement-lime or cement-sand mortar.

Plaster is applied in 3 layers, regardless of what work will be done subsequently (painting, pasting or putty). The first is a spray, the second layer is a primer, and the third is a coating. The primer, depending on the thickness of the plaster, is applied 2 or 3 times. Each subsequent layer of plaster is applied after the previous one has dried. The cement mortar usually sets after a maximum of 6 hours.

Before you start plastering, the wall surface is cleaned of any contamination with steel brushes. different hardness and magnitude. If you need old wallpaper, or paint, then use a scraper.

Then, notches must be applied to the surface of the wall with an ordinary hammer, cog or bush hammer (heavy hammer with teeth) in order to cement mortar adhered to the surface of the wall better.

During the execution of work, you can not do without a trowel. With this tool, the solution is mixed, applied to the wall and rubbed thoroughly. Next, it is leveled with a trowel.

After that, start grouting. It is done in 2 stages:

• grouting performed round;
• overclocking grout.

On the plaster after the grout has been made, there should be no gaps, bumps, shells and other defects.

If there are still small tubercles, then they do a cleaning. Cleaning is done after last layer solution dry with special device(bream). Also for this purpose, you can use a bar of oak, cedar or pumice. Perform the stripping procedure in a circular motion, lightly pressing on the bar. This is the last stage of wall plastering technology using cement mortar.

Wall plaster

Advantages of plaster:

• protects from moisture, but passes air, breathes;
• allows you to get different surface textures, depending on the filler and surface treatment methods;
• plastering on both sides significantly increases the strength of thin brick partitions;
• plasters with special fillers serve as heat and sound insulation, they can even protect against radiation.

Preparation of the wall surface for plaster work.

1. First of all, it is necessary to clean off the old poorly adhering plaster (it flies off after a couple of light blows with a hammer); cleanly remove old paint.
2. If the surface is too smooth (concrete), you should make notches on it with a chisel and a steel brush, clean the seams in the masonry to a depth of 1-2 cm,
3. Dust the surface with a cloth or vacuum cleaner.
4. Moisten the surface immediately before work.
5. The wooden surface must be upholstered with a plaster mesh before plastering.
6. On the wall it is necessary to nail guide strips (thin slats) that set the plane of the plaster. In those places where the wall is "depressed", compensating pads should be placed under the slats.
7. All debris is removed from the base of the wall and polyethylene is laid, as most of the plaster mortar falls to the floor.

Attention

1. Do not plaster a freshly laid wall: if the masonry settles, the plaster may crack.

2. On concrete surface cannot be applied gypsum mortar. Cement and plaster come into contact with each other chemical reaction, the plaster swells and then falls off, the gypsum penetrates the surface of the wall and destroys it. To avoid this, lime mortar with a thickness of 0.4 cm is applied to the wall. It is unacceptable for gypsum to come into contact with cement or improved lime mortar. It is impossible to make plaster with lime mortar over gypsum, since lime shrinks when it dries, and gypsum expands. At the same time, they separate from each other and outer layer disappears. You also need to be careful about sealing heating elements and fixing electrical wiring with plaster.

Preparation of plaster mortar.

Finished plaster mix diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package. Too thick mortar can be diluted with a drop of water, put a dry brick in for too few minutes. Brick quickly takes away excess water.

Spray (applying plaster).

"Spray" - applying the solution to the wall, a procedure that requires great skill. It is necessary to throw on the wall just such a portion of the solution that is needed in this place, and with such force and sharpness that the solution sticks to the wall, and does not splatter on the sides or stack from the wall.

There is an easier (but also more time-consuming) way of applying plaster to the wall. First you need to put together a "shelf". Width and height - 12 cm, length 1 m. The solution is loaded into the shelf, the shelf is tightly pressed against the guide rails on the wall and slowly moved from bottom to top, while moving the shelf from side to side. In this case, the shelf must be gradually tilted towards the wall in order to ensure the flow of mortar to the wall.

Plaster grout.

Grouting is done a few hours after applying the mortar to the wall, when it becomes hard, but not yet set. If you start grouting too early, the applied mortar can fall off the wall in a whole layer, if it’s too late, the mortar will partially seize and will not move from those places where there are a lot of it (bumps) to where it is lacking (hollows), but only cut off bumps.

The mortar should be rubbed with a board 2x12x100 cm with two handles (half trowel), pressing it flat against the wall and making circular movements. At the same time, the guide rails will not allow you to cut off too much mortar.

A day after grouting, the rails should be removed, the resulting grooves should be filled with mortar and rubbed.

If another layer of plaster is needed, the slats are reinstalled and continue to work. The thickness of the plaster layer applied at one time should not exceed 2 - 3 cm. If a thicker layer is needed, apply several thin ones (2 cm) at intervals of 2 - 3 days.

Do not dry plaster, including central heating. This causes it to crack and fall off. To dry the plaster, not only heat is needed, but also Fresh air, which contains the necessary for setting carbon dioxide. If it is not enough, then the plaster dries out, but does not harden.

Putty plastering.

In residential premises, the plastered surface should be puttied, because. the plastered surface "dusts" and often even well-worn plaster has an insufficiently smooth surface for further painting or wallpapering.

The putty mixture is applied with a spatula in planes perpendicular to each other, and then rubbed.

Wall grouting

The next stage after plastering is the grouting of the walls, which is the leveling of the applied mortar. It is necessary to start grouting a few hours after applying the mortar to the wall. During this time, the solution becomes rigid, but does not have time to seize completely. The time when you can start grouting depends on many factors - temperature, humidity and the quality of the solution, so you can only determine by touch.

If you start grouting too early, then the mortar may fall off the wall in a whole layer, and if it is too late, the mortar may partially seize and instead of moving from the “hillocks”, that is, those places where there is too much of it into the depressions where it is not enough, but it will only be cut off from the bumps.

The solution is overwritten trowel- this is a board 2 x 12 x 100 cm with two or one wide handle, you need to press it against the wall and make circular movements, and the metal beacons that you put up will not allow you to cut off too much mortar before plastering. If the wall is not smooth enough, you can apply another layer. The thickness of the plaster applied in one layer should not exceed 3 cm. If you need to apply a thicker layer, then you need to apply several thin layers of 2 cm at intervals of 1 - 2 days.

Living quarters are usually plastered in three coats, the first coat being a thin and cement-rich mortar, then you will have a strong bond to the wall.

Second layer leveling, it must have sufficient thickness to hide all the irregularities of the wall.

third layer- this is a decorative layer, its thickness should be no more than 5 mm. The solution should be made from well-sifted sand so that pebbles do not come across in it. This layer must be rubbed with a grater - this is a board 2 x 12 x 20 cm with a handle.

If there are many outer corners in the room that you will be plastering, then before plastering, together with the beacons, you need to fix the corners for the outer corners with mortar or plaster, then the corners of the porridge will be perfectly even and will not be upholstered if you accidentally touch them (corners are metal and plastic) .

If you are plastering exterior, utility or basements, then it is better to iron them, that is, rub a small amount of dry cement with an iron trowel into a slightly moistened surface of the plaster. Such a surface becomes glossy, acquires greater strength and resistance to moisture. If the plaster needs to be ironed, then this is best done immediately after the completion of the plastering work.

Finish alignment walls

If you are going to paint or wallpaper the plastered surface, then after the plaster has completely dried, level the walls with putty, and then, when it dries, sand it with fine sandpaper, then the wall will be perfectly even and smooth.

Doing overhaul apartment, office or home, you will definitely encounter the need for plastering work. This process is very time consuming and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save on the repair budget, you decide to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the solution, read our article, complete guide plastering the walls with your own hands.

Wall plastering can be done in several ways.

1. In the plane, using the rule (without beacons). This option is suitable if the walls as a whole are fairly even, without drops and strong deviations.
2. Alignment of the walls on the lighthouses. Second the way is fine if the walls have significant deviations and irregularities.

Requirements for plaster

The main requirements for the quality of the plastering work being carried out are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide not to do the work yourself, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high-quality plaster.

1. With simple plaster, vertical deviations of not more than 3 mm per 1 m, but not more than 15 mm for the entire height of the room, are permissible. Thus, the maximum deviation of the wall with ceilings of 2.5 m is 7.5 mm. Smooth irregularities are allowed, for every 4 sq. m. - no more than 3 pieces. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontally, the maximum deviation is 3 mm per 1 m.
2. SNIP for improved plaster requires more stringent compliance with tolerances. Vertically - no more than 2 mm per 1 m, but no more than 10 mm for the entire height of the room. Smooth irregularities are allowed - no more than 2 pcs. for 4 sq. m., with a depth of less than 3 mm. For each meter horizontally, a deviation of no more than 2 mm is permissible.
3. The most stringent requirements in SNIP are specified for high-quality plaster. Vertical deviations should be less than 1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm per room height. The maximum allowed is 2 irregularities per 4 sq. m., with a depth of less than 2 mm. At 1 m horizontally, a deviation of no more than 1 mm is permissible.

Alignment of walls with lighthouses


It is in this way that significant wall irregularities can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is done perfectly evenly with a tolerance of 1 mm / sq.m.

Cost of work

The price for plastering works is from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you do not hire workers.

First of all, you need to buy a puncher and bubble level 2 m long. All others expendable materials will be indicated below. All these accessories will be enough for 6,000 rubles, so you will save money after leveling one wall with an area of ​​15 square meters. m.

If you want to level the walls with an area of ​​​​90 square meters. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! You will have the whole tool forever, and if you already have it, then it’s a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, then we will definitely be sure of their quality.

Choosing a mixture for plaster

To better understand the process of leveling walls, look at the following on plaster:

• The last step is grouting the plaster. To make this easier to do, it is better to start grouting before the solution dries. To do this, you need to dilute the plaster in small portions in a more liquid consistency. Moisturize before grouting small plot walls about 1 square meter.
• Apply the solution to the malka and smear it with a thin layer. Then level this square with a small one at an angle of 45 degrees, with strong pressure.
• Continue smoothing the square until the grout no longer accumulates on the malka, while removing its excess. The surface should be even and smooth.
• Repeat these steps, but smooth each new square overlapping the previous one. Try to work without interruptions, being distracted only by mixing the solution.

Note! If you are tiling, the minimum layer of plaster should be 10 mm. In addition, grouting is not required, since for the greatest adhesion of the tile to the wall, it will be necessary to create artificial bumps.

The result of the work is shown in the photo:

Facade plastering

The plastering of external walls (facades) according to the technology of lighthouses is almost the same as inside the premises. The main thing here is to comply temperature regime. The temperature outside must be above zero.

For facades, a mixture based on cement and sand is usually used. For greater durability, a metal mesh can be attached to the facade and plastered over it. It is especially important to use a grid if the walls of the house are made of sand-lime bricks.

We have examined in detail how to properly plaster walls with the help of beacons. Now you can easily do these works with your own hands. Do not be discouraged if you do not succeed in this business the first time, everything goes with experience, and you will definitely learn how to make the walls perfectly even. We also recommend that you read our article about.