What fertilizer to apply when planting rhododendrons. Seasonal top dressing of rhododendron: how to fertilize ornamental shrubs in spring and autumn

Spring events with rhododendrons are not as saturated as with roses. However, when opening rhododendrons, you must follow the rules.

Opening time of rhododendrons

When the positive temperature is established and in the absence of strong night frosts in the forecasts. The most important thing, as with roses, is not to expose overwintered rhododendrons to the bright sun. . It is necessary to open them on a cloudy day, or in the late afternoon. For a while, it is worth leaving the shelter on the south side.

We must try to do everything to make the roots of the plant work..

To do this, we rake the mulch so that the earth thaws.

We spill the rhododendron with warm water. During the dry spring we try to water as often as possible.

If, on the contrary, the rhododendron is in a puddle of melt water, try to divert this water from the roots of the rhododendron as soon as possible. And in principle, this should not be, it is necessary to plant a rhododendron so that it does not end up in the flood zone in the spring. If this is not possible, make a hummock for the rhododendron on which you will plant it. Rhododendrons are calm about transplanting, so feel free to correct mistakes, this will only benefit the plant.

Don't be afraid of the unsightly appearance of the rhododendron in spring. And it usually looks like this:

the leaves are rolled into a tube and lowered. Some of the leaves may be brown.

This picture shows the Haag (The Hague) rhododendron after a good winter. The leaves are drooping and slightly curled.

If the leaves are very tightly twisted, urgent resuscitation of the rhododendron is needed.

Twisted leaves within a week, two - it depends on the weather, open and rise. In a warm spring with sufficient rainfall, you can already see the unfolded leaves when the rhododendron opens. As in the photo at the end of the article

Brown leaves, do not recover. Remove them before summer.

Brown leaves are the result of frostbite or desiccation. If there are too many such leaves, the rhododendron may not survive.

In the second photo, just such an unsuccessful wintering of the Katevbinsky rhododendron, the upper shoots were very badly damaged, and later they had to be completely cut off.

But
the record holder for survival, the Katevbinsky rhododendron, is usually restored almost from a dead state. So even if you are not at all happy with the look of the rhododendron after removing the shelter, do not rush to destroy it. Water, water, and most often you will see new shoots by the beginning of summer.

The third photo shows the same rhododendron as the second one five years later. Nothing now reminds of how he suffered during the winter in 2005. Then, in 2005, after pruning, he gave new shoots and by the autumn he practically fully recovered.

The first time you hear the name of a flower - rhododendron, it's hard to even imagine how tender and reverent this plant is. In order to grow it in a summer cottage, you will have to create all the necessary conditions for its flowering. If rhododendrons are planted in the right area, in prepared soil and mulched, then caring for them becomes much easier. In today's article, we will consider all the necessary conditions for growing rhododendrons, as well as get acquainted with the most popular types of these flowers.

Suitable lighting and temperature

Rhododendron reacts poorly to the direct rays of the sun and heavily lit areas of the earth, their lot is shade and partial shade.

Advice: In order to understand whether the lighting is suitable for a given flower, just look at its leaves. With optimal lighting, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are healthy, dark green, they are very decorative not only in summer, but also in winter, but if there is too much light, then the flower petals become faded.

Rhododendron shrubs in nature can be found, as a rule, in mountainous areas, therefore it is not surprising that it is there that the ideal ratio between temperature and humidity level is preserved for them.

Rhododendron bushes are practically insensitive to temperature changes - if you properly prepare for the winter season, then this plant will survive the most severe winter, without digging. In summer, the optimum temperature is 18-25 degrees, if the summer turned out to be hot, then you should be very careful about watering and additional spraying of the plant.

Optimal watering

The rhododendron plant should not lack moisture, especially in the first year after planting. There is absolutely no need to fill the bushes, an excess of moisture also does not suit this plant, it is better to water a little, but constantly. A huge role for irrigation is played by the quality of the water that the plant is watered with, it must be soft, rainwater or water from a clean reservoir is also suitable.

In dry weather, the plant should be helped by regular spraying, especially during the period of active growth, if there is even the slightest suspicion that they are deficient in water.

Advice: In order to understand that a rhododendron flower does not have enough moisture, you need to pay attention to the leaves, they become dull and droop, brown spots appear around the edges, similar to fungal diseases.

Soil and planting site

When choosing a place to plant, you should pay attention to the shading of this area and the trees that will be in the neighborhood. It should also be borne in mind that it must be protected from prevailing winds and direct sunlight. It is best for them in wooded areas, especially under pines and not very dense spruces. If there are no such trees on the site, then areas directly adjacent to the northern walls of the house and other buildings are perfect.

As for the soil, it should be acidic, air and moisture permeable. Optimal composition: high-moor peat (sour), garden soil (loam) and pine litter, taken in equal parts.

Top dressing of rhododendrons

The rhododendron plant needs top dressing before flowering, immediately after it and at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. You don’t need to think of anything special here, in any gardening store you can find ready-made soluble fertilizers for rhododendrons, 20-30 grams per 1 liter of water will be more than enough for one plant, you can add 5-10 grams of any nitrogen fertilizer to it.

Reproduction of rhododendrons

Rhododendrons can be propagated in many ways: seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting. Amateur gardeners prefer the vegetative layering method. To do this, young flexible shoots take root next to the mother plant. At the same time, the inclined shoot partially fits into a hole no shallower than 15 cm deep. Already in the next season, you can safely dig out this new bush and transplant it to a suitable place.

For cuttings, semi-lignified shoots are taken, cut into cuttings 5-8 cm long, the lower leaves are removed, the top 2-3 are left completely. Rhododendrons take root quite hard, so it is better to hold the cuttings for 12-16 hours in a solution of growth stimulants. After that, the cuttings are ready for rooting.

Preparing the plant for winter

In winter, the rhododendron needs special care. Since autumn, you should carefully monitor watering, it should not be less than 12-13 liters of water at a time, then before the first frost, the bushes should be wrapped with burlap and fixed with twine, such a simple method will not disturb the air flow to the plant. You can remove this shelter only when the night frosts have passed.

Advice: in the spring, no less than frost should be wary of the afternoon sun. So for this procedure, you should choose a cloudy day so as not to harm the fragile plant.

Preparing the plant for winter

The most popular types of rhododendrons:

o Japanese rhododendron

o Schlippenbach Rhododendron

o Pink rhododendron 'Percy Weissman'

o White Rhododendron

My "wrong" top dressing. And how I ruined Rhododendron

How and with what to fertilize rhododendrons? Tips for beginners

What top dressing is suitable for rhododendron? And why you shouldn't use chicken manure...

MY ERRORS IN FLORITORY

Once upon a time... I moved from the capital to a small village. I really wanted to be closer to the ground. I wanted to have my own big house, a garden rich in hundreds (and not a piece of land!) And I had a great desire to plant a garden.

A garden in which there will be everything - fruit trees, ornamental bushes, flower beds. Having settled down a little in a new place, I decided that it was time to realize my dreams.

And my first purchase was a rhododendron bush. It was a three-year-old seedling, an adult, already formed plant. I prepared the landing pit in accordance with all the rules, planted ... My first-born, having been ill a little (the change in climatic conditions had an effect), began to gradually gain strength - new branches appeared with pale green leaves.

Of course, I was happy about this as a child - I watered the bush, loosened and mulched the soil, fed it. She did everything to ensure that the plant was healthy, flowering. However, I missed one important point. I did not bother to read about dressing for rhododendron and this fact led to sad consequences. Namely: For the main feeding, I used chicken manure. And this was absolutely impossible to do.

After the first, second feeding, the bush began to change the color of the foliage. At the beginning, single leaves turned pale, and then the entire shrub somehow wilted ... the edges of the leaves turned brown, growth stopped. And then the bush died.

For a long time I sinned against invisible pests and diseases, but only now I understand that the reasons for the death of the plant were my improper feeding. Now I have become an experienced florist and I know many secrets of successful cultivation of ornamental shrubs. And then...

I do not want beginners to make my mistakes, and therefore I decided to share with everyone - important information. Read! Gain experience! Author's text Alenamir So, by tradition, I give the floor to an experienced florist:

The most accessible and common of organic fertilizers are old semi-decomposed manure, horn shavings and blood meal.

ATTENTION! As a fertilizer, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Which leads to the "oppression" of the plant. And later it is possible to the death of rhododendron.

Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase.

As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, which are characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process takes longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for top dressing.

To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water to a light brown color.

To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid.

When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.

If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the surface of the soil around each plant with a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate the soil, and the plants receive the necessary top dressing.

WHAT CAN YOU REPLACE ORGANIC FEEDS?

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, so with a small amount of them, a lot of the nutrients needed by plants are introduced into the soil.

Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for top dressing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (potassium fertilizer solution should be even weaker).

Chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used to feed rhododendrons. You need to start feeding the plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise with warm weather and sufficient humidity.

Soil and air can induce secondary shoot growth. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many types of rhododendrons.

HOW TO STOP NEW GROWTH IN AUTUMN

You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulphate K2SO4 or a 1% solution of monobasic potassium phosphate KH2PO4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective.

HOW TO PREPARE THE SOLUTION

For its preparation, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH2PO4 are taken per 10 liters of water. It turns out a solution that contains the main macronutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7).

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used.

This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate.

This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April).

During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can feed a little differently:

In early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons.

In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m2 of area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate.

In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m2 of area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate.

WHEN TO FERTIFY WITH MINERAL FERTILIZERS

Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with solutions of mineral fertilizers is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July.

For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of rhododendrons in closed ground.

For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds. Post Author

To ensure good growth, beautiful flowering and resistance of rhododendron to adverse external factors (pests, diseases), it is required to carry out mandatory feeding of the plant. For this, it is recommended to use organic and mineral complexes, as well as various growth stimulants. Uncontrolled use of fertilizers will only harm the plant, so you need to follow the basic rules.

Fertilization Rules

There are a number of rules for fertilizing rhododendron (azalea) that must be followed:

1. Young shrubs should be fed only with products in the form of liquid solutions. They are better absorbed by the root system and absorbed by the plant.
2. Do not use for azaleas growing in Russia, those compositions that are imported in granules. This is due to the fact that they are intended for other climatic conditions (for example, for those areas where there are much more hot days in spring and summer than in Russia). If you use such products, then at the end of August, the green mass may again begin to grow. Because of this, the branches simply do not have time to prepare for the onset of frost. As a result, the shrub will freeze.
3. Do not use wood ash for top dressing. It is not applied to the soil around the rhododendron, because because of this product, the level of soil acidity decreases. This can lead to various diseases in the azalea. In most cases, with such an error, chlorosis develops, which is difficult to cope with. You can determine the presence of the disease by the appearance of yellowish streaks around the veins of the foliage.
4. It is not recommended to use too much fertilizer containing phosphorus. They will interfere with the absorption of iron by the root system, which is contained in the soil. Deficiency of this substance also leads to the development of chlorosis. This is especially true for young shoots.

In the first year, when the plant is just being formed, it is imperative to fertilize the shrub. Otherwise, due to a deficiency of minerals, the leaves will turn pale and fall off.

Azaleas need to be fertilized 3 times. The first time to carry out the procedure should be after winter. Azofoska is required to be applied to the soil around the trunk. This is a mineral fertilizer of a granular type. It contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The product is considered universal, since it contains all the components necessary for the plant in spring. Nitrogen is required to maintain and accelerate the growth of green mass and root system. Phosphorus and potassium influence the development of inflorescences and roots.

Azofoska has the following features:

not washed out of the soil for a long time;
contributes to the quality nutrition of the azalea, as it is near the roots of the flower for a long time.

The composition can be added to any type of soil. It should be used exclusively in the spring, when the azalea is still in the process of bud formation. You need to act exactly according to the instructions for the drug. Do not exceed the dosage so as not to provoke the appearance of a burn of the root system.

A bush in the spring can be fertilized with Rodo and Azalea Azet. It contains fungal cultures and special microorganisms. It only takes half a cup of this granular product to fertilize one plant. This volume is enough to feed the flower for the next few months. The substance must be applied to the soil when the bud is just blooming.

The next period when it is recommended to add fertilizer to the soil is the end of May or the beginning of June. At this time, the plant is already flowering. The compositions used should contribute to the laying of flower buds on the bush. They will be required for flowering next year.

1. Mix 2 tbsp. l. ammonium sulphate with a spoonful of potassium salt and superphosphate. This amount is enough to process 1 square. m plot.
2. Use the ready-made drug Kemira universal or its analogues. The composition is suitable for perennial flowering shrubs. The product is supposed to be applied under the plant after watering has been carried out.
3. Use organic fertilizers. For feeding rhododendrons, compositions made on the basis of sour peat of a riding type are suitable. With manure, you need to work very carefully. It must be diluted (1 kg of the product is diluted with 20 liters of water), and then wait 3 days until the product is infused. Only after this fertilizer can be added to the soil.
4. Dilute horn meal with water. It contains a large amount of phosphorus, and the elements will decompose for several months.

The third dressing after winter is done at the end of July. During its implementation, nitrogen-containing products should not be used, otherwise the shoots will begin to grow again. It is required to add a couple of spoons of compounds that include phosphorus to the soil, add a spoonful of potassium salt. Thanks to this, new shoots that have managed to form during the season will become stronger and more resistant to frost.

After the last fertilization, it is required to mulch the place around the trunk of the shrub. To do this, you need to use rotted pine needles.

Mineral complexes

Both mineral and organic fertilizers are actively used to feed azaleas. The following minerals are commonly used:

1. Iron chelate. It is used on clay-type soils so that azalea leaves do not turn yellow.
2. Nitrogen-containing compositions. They need to be applied to the ground in the spring to stimulate growth.
3. Potassium sulphate, magnesium and ammonium. These types of fertilizers are great for rhododendron, as they affect the level of soil acidity in favor of reducing the indicator.
4. Phosphorus fats. Contribute to the acceleration of metabolic reactions of the plant.

Mineral fertilizer is a suspension in concentrated form. A minimum volume of product is required to enter the soil. At the same time, the earth is maximally saturated with useful substances.

Also for fertilizing rhododendrons use:

potassium sulphate, calcium, magnesium and ammonium;
potassium nitrate;
potassium phosphate;
superphosphate.

One of the most effective options for feeding azalea is the use of a buffer-type potassium-phosphorus solution. It contains substances that help maintain the optimal level of soil acidity for rhododendrons. When preparing a mixture for 10 liters of liquid, it is required to add 8 g of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate.

If different varieties of azalea are fertilized, located in one place, then the mineral solution must be replaced with dry fats. To prepare them, you need to mix 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and then add 40 g of ammonium sulfate. For one shrub up to 1 m high, 80 g of such a composition will be needed. The mixture must be spread over the ground in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. The tuk will penetrate into the soil when watering.

organic matter

Organic fertilizers are the cheapest and most available for feeding shrubs. Popular products that are used to process azalea are:

1. Manure. It cannot be used fresh, it must be diluted. To 1 part of the liquid, add 15 parts of manure, mix thoroughly. After that, it is necessary to wait a few days until microbiological processes take place in the mixture. At this time, air bubbles will appear on the surface of the future fertilizer.
2. Slurry. There are no exact proportions. During the preparation of the composition, it is necessary to focus on the shade of the liquid. The suspension should acquire a light brownish color.
3. Semi-rotted manure. Such a composition should not be diluted in water. In the spring, it is simply distributed over the surface of the earth around the bush. The layer thickness must be at least 5 cm.
4. Slurry and superphosphate. The composition includes both organic and mineral fertilizer. The combination of substances is great for azalea. Thanks to him, the concentration of phosphorus in the soil increases, which is required for the full development of the shrub. 4 kg of superphosphate is added to 100 liters of slurry.

When using slurry, it is necessary to monitor the level of soil acidity. If the color of the foliage begins to change (evergreen shrubs can shed their leaves), then urgent action is required to apply acidic fertilizers. As for the manure itself, bird, cow, pig, and horse droppings can be used for fertilizer.

Among organic fertilizers, horn waste is the most valuable. This applies to chips and flour. They contain large amounts of phosphorus and nitrogen. The decomposition period of these products is quite long, so that the amount of formulations applied will be minimal.

Azaleas can be fertilized with vinegar. This will be needed if ordinary water from a well is used to water the bushes. It needs to be softened up a bit. This is what vinegar is used for. It will take only 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of liquid. Vinegar can be replaced with citric acid. In this case, 4 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water. Sometimes shrubs are treated with urea.

Growth and flowering stimulants

Many preparations have been developed that are used to stimulate the growth and flowering of azalea. The most effective of them are:

1. Zircon. Helps the shrub to adapt faster, stimulates the beginning of flowering, promotes the growth of the root system. Sold in ampoules. Add 2 drops of liquid to a watering can with water for irrigation. An overdose should not be allowed. Zircon is also used for spraying azaleas. The procedure is carried out once every 4 days.
2. Appin. This is an anti-session remedy that is perfect for rhododendron. Its difference from Zircon is that the drug is used only for spraying, and once every 2 weeks. If you use the remedy more often, then this will not give any accelerated effect. It is considered no less useful than the previous substance. Sold in ampoules that can not be kept in the light. Spraying an azalea during flowering is prohibited.
3. HB-101. A popular remedy that helps azaleas survive any stress. The advantage is the economy of the product. Only 1 drop of the substance is added to the watering can. It is allowed to use both for watering and for irrigation.
4. Ecogel-antistress. Available in bottles. Suitable for both watering and spraying through a spray bottle. It is considered more effective than Epin.
5. Ferovit. This azalea food contains iron chelate. Usually used when chlorosis develops on a shrub. Helps to increase green mass, improves appearance. Used for both watering and spraying. The latter is considered more efficient.
6. Emerald. It is usually used when azalea leaves turn brown, faded. Helps to increase green mass.
7. Fitosporin-M. Prevents rotting of roots, development of various diseases. You will need 10 drops of the product per cup of water.

Feeding rhododendron shrubs is a necessary step in plant care. It is especially needed in the spring after the snow melts. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers. They stimulate the growth of green mass, accelerate the growth of the bush. Top dressing has a beneficial effect on flowering.