Staircase to the second floor in a private house: modern ideas. Stairs to the second floor in a private house: photos and practical advice Stairs to the second floor in a wooden house

A properly designed pivot staircase will perfectly complement the interior.

Any private house with more than one floor forces its owner to build an interfloor staircase. It is quite possible for an owner experienced in construction to make it with his own hands. But it should be borne in mind that it is better to think about the construction in advance - even before the construction of the house, at the stage of its design.

Complex staircase structures are obtained due to the elementary lack of space. The owners in such cases make a choice in favor of a spiral staircase or a march staircase with a turn. You can achieve success in the construction of an interfloor staircase with your own hands if you correctly calculate the entire staircase structure and plan the process of its construction. But it is certainly worth consulting with a specialist, for example, about the permissible load on the stairs.

What type of construction to choose

First of all, you need to decide on the purpose and frequency of its use. In some cases, a lightweight foldable design that does not turn and is not designed for heavy loads is the preferred option. For example, when the 2nd floor is an attic (or even an attic), it is unlikely that there will be a need to move large and heavy objects there. The number of people regularly climbing such a floor will also be small.

In some cases, such a ladder will be appropriate.

The most widespread and easiest-to-manufacture structure that connects the second floor to the first is a flight staircase. It is not only comfortable, but also safe, which is important if children and elderly people use the stairs. In addition, large-sized objects - furniture, for example, or building materials - can be easily lifted to the upper floor and lowered down a well-made marching staircase. It is easier to build a marching staircase with your own hands. It is usually built from wood or metal.

The marching staircase is not only very convenient, it is also very simple to design it on your own.

The stairs to the second floor are often made in several marches. The reason for this decision is the need to fit the structure into a limited space, while maintaining the correct angle of inclination.

Important!
If the stairs are made too steep, it will be uncomfortable to use.

Swivel staircase with a comfortable flight angle.

What is the use of drawing

The homeowner has every right to do everything at his own discretion - choose the height and width of the structure, build it from wood or metal parts, do all the work with his own hands or hire specialists, make a choice in favor of one or another configuration. But nevertheless, it is worthwhile to carefully consider the observance of certain parameters of the stairs. To make it safe and comfortable, you should, first of all, maintain the correct ratios of the height and depth of the steps, because it is these dimensions that determine the slope of the entire structure.

Non-standard steps can give your staircase an original look, but it will not be very comfortable to use it.

In any case, drawing up a drawing of the future staircase will take into account all the subtleties of the structure connecting the first floor with the second, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of errors. Even the fitting of the parts is most likely not needed if the drawing is done properly (which, by the way, is not so difficult). Another positive point is the ability to accurately calculate the amount of material required for the manufacture of a staircase.

Even such a simple drawing will allow you to avoid a lot of mistakes.

main parameters

The drawing should begin with drawing up a floor plan. It includes doors, windows, furniture items and other possible obstacles. It is advisable to do further design steps only after familiarization with the existing building codes relating to staircase structures. Here is a list of the most basic ones:

The inclination of the ladder should not exceed 45 °.
The minimum width of the march is 0.9 m.
The maximum riser height is 20 cm.
The depth of the step is at least 25 cm.
Guardrail (height of the railing) - 0.9 m.

In addition, all steps must be the same in height, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to walk up the stairs. The only exception can be the first and last steps. Sometimes calculations require this, and sometimes the first step is made in the form of a platform in front of the stairs.

It is noteworthy that different march widths within the same staircase are allowed.

Average human stride

The convenience of the stairs will also depend on the size of the person's step taken in the calculations. The average human height is in the range of 160-180 cm, the corresponding step for this height: 60-64 cm.

The length of the foot is also taken into account. It is assumed here that the walker feels safe when 70% of his foot is on the supporting surface. Again, based on the average values, the step depth is selected from the range of 25-30 cm. There is a formula linking three parameters: 2h + d ≈ 60-64 cm, where 2h is the doubled riser height, d is the tread depth, and the sum of these numbers should give the value of the average human stride. It should be noted that this formula is not a "panacea", therefore, one should not take it as a prerequisite.

An alternative way to calculate stairs Part 1

An alternative way to calculate stairs Part 2

How difficult is drawing

To draw a diagram of a direct march, school knowledge from the geometry course will be enough. You can do it yourself. But before applying the drawing of the future staircase to the floor plan, it is necessary to calculate all its parameters. To do this, you can use the following instruction:

The number of steps is calculated - the height of the room is divided by the height of one step. In this case, the overlap must be taken into account, that is, the distance from the floor of the 1st floor to the floor of the 2nd is taken.
Then you need to determine the length of the structure, for this, the depth of the tread is multiplied by the number of steps. If the length is known or there are serious restrictions on its value, then they do the opposite - calculate the depth of the tread based on the length of the march: divide the estimated length by the number of steps.
They make the necessary adjustments to make the design comfortable and fit into the interior of the room.
The area of the staircase is calculated: the value of the width of the march is multiplied by its length.
The lengths of the supporting beams (bowstrings or stringers) are also required. For the calculation, they use the Pythagorean theorem - the height of the staircase and its projection onto the horizontal axis act as legs. The square root of the sum of the squares of these sizes will give the hypotenuse, the desired length.
The obtained values are entered into the drawing.

Staircase turn

Now the most important thing is that the parameters of the rotary part are calculated first, and only then they take up the marches. Here you need more knowledge than in the case of simple stairs and without a well-constructed drawing it will be difficult to figure it out. Drawings made by professionals can serve as a good example for beginners. It should also be borne in mind that calculations are often a process of successive approximation, that is, it is not always possible to get into the same dimensions right away, you have to refine individual parameters step by step.

The drawing should show the staircase in three projections.

How is the turn done? There are two options - an inter-span area or run-in steps... The first option is easier, you can do it yourself. In addition, it is more convenient to use the site, but space is needed.

Structures differ in ease of use and design complexity.

The second option is used when there is a lack of space. Calculations in this case are more difficult - you will have to try to make the stairs comfortable and safe. The following methods are used to calculate the winders:

proportional;
Danish;
line rotation method;
sweep method.

We draw the winder steps.

Important!
When using winder steps, it is necessary to control their depth on the line of movement - it should not be less than 20 cm.

The depth of the tread of the winder steps, as a rule, is increased by creating an overlap of 3-4 cm. It is undesirable to exceed this value, since the descent can become inconvenient and even dangerous. When there is not enough room to fully position the foot, a person may slip, resulting in injury. Climbing such steps is also inconvenient - the sock will constantly cling to an overly large slip.

A 180 ° pivoting design requires a certain distance between flights. A value of 75 mm is the minimum allowable for this gap.

Create winder steps for a swing staircase

Ready options

Not all owners of private houses have the desire and time to make drawings and do construction work with their own hands. Moreover, when there are very good options for ready-made ladder structures assembled from modules. A variety of modifications are available - straight, screw, curved. Some are assembled from wooden elements, others from metal. And all this is no more complicated than a children's designer - only a few hours are spent. The height and width of the parts are easily adjustable, making it possible to fit the staircase into the interior and provide access to the upper floor in the shortest possible time. The variety of style solutions will allow you to find the right option for any situation.

Modern modular ladders can be very stylish and yet easy to assemble.

It is also worth paying attention to specialized software designed for calculating various parameters - SolidWorks, StairDesigner and others. With such tools, building a complex structure with your own hands will become possible even for someone who has not dealt with drawings. In addition, there are free online services for designing simple structures, that is, anyone can try their hand at designing without installing additional software on their computer.

Designing a staircase in the "Compass" program (simple option)

Designing stairs in AutoCAD (hard option)

Building a staircase in a house is not an easy process, but doable. The main difficulty lies in calculating the angle of inclination and the parameters of the span, because not only ease of use depends on this, but also the durability of the structure. A solid and beautiful staircase to the second floor with your own hands is an opportunity to test your strength and gain experience for further home improvement.

First you need to decide on the type of stairs in order to make the calculations correctly. In the house, stairs made of wood, concrete and metal are most often used; according to their configuration, they are straight, rotary and screw. There are also combined designs of varying complexity.

Concrete products require a very strong base and a lot of time to manufacture, but at the same time they are the strongest and most durable. Installation of metal structures will not be difficult for those who know how to use welding, and a wooden staircase can be made by anyone who is familiar with the technology of this process in detail.

A direct flight staircase to the second floor is considered the easiest to install; it consists of a small number of parts, takes up little space, does not require complex calculations. Screw structures are used where there is little free space; they look very elegant, but not always easy to use. It will be problematic to lift something bulky and heavy on such steps. Multi-span structures are more difficult to build, but ideal for homes where there is a large distance between floors.

Simple wooden staircase

A single-flight staircase consists of stringers, railings, treads and risers. A tread is called the horizontal part of a step, a riser is a vertical one. Kosoura are load-bearing structural elements that have special cutouts along the upper edge for fastening steps. Instead of stringers, bowstrings are often used - load-bearing beams with grooves for steps. Risers and railings are optional, but for convenience and safety, it is best when they are present.

The height of the stairs is equal to the distance between floors plus the thickness of the slabs. To simplify the calculation of the span and base length, you first need to determine the parameters of the steps. If the house is inhabited by elderly people and children, the optimal step height is 15 cm, for the rest the height of 20 cm will be more convenient. It is not recommended to make the riser even higher, as the ascent will be too steep and less comfortable.

The width of the step is 20-30 cm, and here a lot depends on how much space can be taken under the stairs. The wider the steps, the more space the structure takes up. Once the appropriate dimensions have been chosen, the number of steps and the length of the base can be counted. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser, the resulting value is rounded to an integer, and then multiplied by the depth of the tread. For example, if the total height is 3 m and the riser height is 20 cm, 15 steps are required:

3000:200=15

With a step width of 25 cm, the base length is 15x250 = 3750 mm.

Manufacturing technology

When the calculations are done, you can start making the elements of the stairs. For stringers, very dense solid wood is needed, because they must support not only the weight of the structure, but also people. A template is cut out of thick cardboard, on which the cutouts correspond to the size of the steps, and the slope is equal to the angle of inclination of the stairs. At the ends of the stringers, grooves are cut out for attachment to the base and the upper floors, after which the markings are made according to the template.

For further work you will need:

jigsaw;
grinder;
building level;
anchor bolts;
drill;
hammer.

With an electric jigsaw on the kosoura, protrusions are made according to the markings, then they are processed with a grinder on both sides. Holes for fasteners are cut out in the floor beams or metal supports are installed. On the floor of the first floor, along the line of the lower step, a support bar is installed and fixed with anchor bolts. After that, the installation of the stringers is carried out, be sure to check the angle of inclination using a level. At the bottom and at the top, the stringers are fixed with anchor bolts.

The next step is making steps. To do this, take dry boards with a thickness of 36 mm; their width should be equal to the width of the steps or be slightly larger. For risers, you can use boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more. The length of the workpieces must correspond to the width of the stairs - from 80 cm to 1.2 m.

After trimming, each piece must be sanded to remove sharp cuts and irregularities. The process of installing the steps is very simple: the lower cuts of the stringers are coated with wood glue and the risers are applied, leveling along the edges. Fix them with self-tapping screws and lay them on top of the steps. The glue is needed so that the wooden elements do not creak under load.

Laying all the steps in turn, proceed to the installation of the railing. Railings consist of balusters and handrails; for the manufacture of balusters, a square bar or curly wood blanks are used. Balusters are installed either at each step, or through one, depending on the slope and length of the span. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, which are often closed with special plugs for beauty. If the staircase to the second floor is located in the center of the room, railings can be installed on both sides.

The finished structure is sanded again and treated with an antiseptic primer. After that, you need to cover the wood with varnish, paint or another compound that does not form a too smooth surface. If the steps are rough, this will increase their safety for household members. The coating is applied in 2 or 3 coats, with each coat completely drying before applying the next one.

In a spacious house with concrete floors on the second floor, you can make a staircase out of concrete. Most often, two types of structures are mounted in houses - monolithic and combined, in which only kosour is concrete. The second option looks more attractive and elegant. For the manufacture of a concrete staircase, formwork and a very solid foundation are required.

In the process of work you will need:

edged board upholstered with foil or waterproof plywood;
durable timber 100x100 mm;
knitting wire and fittings;
self-tapping screws;
concrete solution.

Formwork boards are chosen with a thickness of 3 cm, the thickness of plywood should not be less than 18 mm. All dimensions are calculated in the same way as for a wooden staircase, but the base should be as strong as possible. They begin with the assembly of the formwork: boards or plywood are knocked down according to the drawing, observing the angle of inclination and avoiding the formation of cracks.

The finished formwork is installed between the floors and secured with wooden blocks. After that, the reinforcement is laid out inside the frame, tying the transverse rods with wire. In the places where the railings are installed, corks made of wood are fixed, and then the formwork is poured with a ready-made mortar. You need to fill the frame right away, otherwise the solidity of the base will be broken.

When the concrete sets well, the formwork is removed, and the surface of the steps is periodically moistened to avoid cracking. You can start finishing only after the concrete has completely dried and hardened. For the manufacture of a combined staircase, the kosour is cast in the same way, but the formwork is made much narrower and taking into account the installation of the steps.

For finishing a monolithic structure, wood, stone, tiles and other materials are used. When cladding, the weight of the material should be taken into account, because tiles and stone put a greater load on the base than wood panels. Any steps can be attached to a concrete kosour; such a base is especially well combined with a tree.

For the manufacture and installation of a straight metal staircase to the second floor, you will need:

steel channel # 10;
metal corners;
welding machine;
sheet metal;
file and grinder with a grinding attachment.

The channel is cut into pieces and a frame is assembled from them according to the size of the stairs. The corners are welded to the side edges of the frame at equal intervals equal to the height of the step. All corners should be parallel to each other. To make it easier to install the structure, the steps are welded after mounting and securing the frame.

The upper ends of the frame are securely fixed with anchor bolts to the ceiling of the second floor, the lower ends are fixed to the floor. Next, the steps of sheet iron are welded and the railings are attached. Upon completion of the assembly, the joints are sanded with a nozzle or processed with a file, after which they are covered with an anti-corrosion primer.

This design takes up little space and looks more decorative. At a height of 2.5 m, you will need to make about 15-17 steps; the diameter of the base will be about 2 m. The most common way of mounting spiral staircases is by threading trapezoidal or triangular steps onto the central axis. The narrow part is 15 cm wide, the wide one is 30-35 cm.

To make a spiral staircase yourself, you will need:

steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
pipe with a diameter of 55 mm;
wooden slats for the template;
corners for steps;
welding machine;
file;
primer.

A pipe with a smaller diameter is a center post, so its length should correspond to the distance between the first and second floors. For greater stability of the structure, it is recommended to concrete the rack at the base, having previously set it vertically. The larger diameter pipe is cut into cylinders about 25 cm long. The cuts must be made strictly perpendicular, otherwise the steps cannot be aligned horizontally.

It is very important that the cylinders fit snugly over the center tube and do not create backlash. If a tight fit does not occur, O-rings will be required.

For the manufacture of steps, it is convenient to use a template made of strips. Wooden slats are glued together so that the corners embedded in the frame form a step of the given parameters.

Each step is welded to its own cylinder and carefully sanded. After making all the elements, you can start assembling the structure. The steps are put on the axle tube, the angle is set and tightly welded to the axle.

The final stage is fixing the railings and finishing. Railings can consist of fittings, chrome-plated tubes, thin profiles; forged railings look very elegant. All metal surfaces must be sanded, primed and painted.

In a similar way, a spiral staircase is assembled to the second floor from wooden steps. Wood blanks are made in the form of a trapezoid, in the narrow part of which a hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled. With the help of special seals, the steps threaded onto the axle are fixed on the central post. Next, the railings are installed, the tree is primed and painted, and decorated with decor.

Video - How to make a staircase to the second floor

Video - DIY wooden staircase

Building a staircase to the second floor is a rather complicated procedure, but with experience and a good step-by-step guide, it is quite possible to cope with it on your own. The main difficulty in this case is that the dimensions of the span and the angle of inclination of the structure must be calculated with the utmost accuracy, since both the durability of the structure and the convenience of its operation largely depend on this. A reliable and aesthetically pleasing staircase is a great chance to test yourself and gain valuable experience for subsequent work in your private home.

First, it is worth deciding what role your staircase should play in the overall interior. This design can serve as a decorative element or be invisible; moreover, the staircase can become the central element of the entire design, according to which the entire room will be decorated. But before choosing a specific option and starting the production itself, it is necessary to find out how this kind of staircase generally works, and to determine its required dimensions.

Construction - what are the interfloor stairs

And they consist of a large number of structural elements. Some are definitely indispensable, while others, on the contrary, may be absent in some variations of the described design.

To begin with, the structure must necessarily contain steps, as well as the supports that support them - these are the main elements of any interfloor structure of this type. The step itself is an element consisting of two parts perpendicular to each other. Speaking in a professional language, from a step and a riser. The latter, by the way, serves as a kind of support under the approach, but often you can do without it.

As for the supports, they can be of two types:

kosour (this is a special beam that supports the steps from below);
bowstring (a similar beam for steps, only it supports them at the ends).

The next structural element is a railing. They are extremely important, although they are not available on all types of construction. And if elderly relatives or children live in your house, there is certainly no way to go without railings.

Finally, balusters are special vertical supports for railings, which are often necessary not only for practicality, but also for decorativeness. For balusters, different materials can be used, and the shape of the elements is also different.

Note! Due to the wide variety of stairs, they may have such details that are required exclusively for this design. Let's get acquainted with them.

Boltsy. These are the special bolts used to support the steps. They can be attached both to them and to the walls themselves. They are not often used, but only for some variants of the stairs.
Racks. Such elements are used in the construction of spiral staircases. To one such rack with a corresponding step, steps are attached that have a special shape and form a spiral, which rises to the second floor from the first.

What type of stairs to the second floor to choose for the house?

So, first, we determine which staircase we need, and make the appropriate calculations. As a rule, in private houses there are metal, concrete and wooden stairs.

By their design, they can all be:

screw;
rotary;
straight.

There are also, by the way, combined options with varying degrees of difficulty, but we will not dwell on them.

Concrete stairs require a very solid foundation, and the construction itself takes a lot of time, but the finished structures are very durable and strong. Installing a ladder made of metal is nothing complicated, but provided that you know how to work with a welding machine. But everyone can build a structure made of wood if you familiarize yourself with the algorithm for such a process.

The simplest in construction is considered to be a straight marching structure - not a particularly complicated staircase to the second floor with your own hands. It is quite compact, does not include too many details, and complex calculations are not required in this case. If free space is limited, then the best option is a spiral staircase, which, although it looks elegant, is not always convenient to use. For example, it will be difficult for you to lift something heavy or bulky on it. Structures that consist of several spans are more difficult to install, however, they are the most suitable option for buildings with a large distance between floors.

Do-it-yourself staircase to the second floor made of wood single-flight

This structure consists of the following elements:

stringers;
risers;
tread;
railings.

We have already figured out what each of these elements is, so let's go straight to the main thing.

So, the height of a single-flight staircase to the second floor should be the same as the distance between floors + floors. To simplify the calculation, you first need to determine the dimensions of the steps themselves. If children or elderly relatives live with you, then it is desirable that the steps be 15 centimeters in height, in other cases this height can be 20 centimeters. It is undesirable to exceed the last value, since the ascent will turn out to be steeper, and it will not be so convenient to ascend.

As for the width of the steps, it should vary from 20 to 30 centimeters - the specific value depends on how much free space is allocated for the staircase. After all, the wider the steps, the more space will be required. Choose the required dimensions, start calculating the length of the base and the number of steps. Take the total height of the entire structure and divide by the height of one riser, and round the number that you get to the nearest integer and multiply by the value of the tread depth. For example, the entire staircase to the second floor with your own hands will have a height of 300 centimeters, and the height of each riser will be 20 centimeters.

This requires 15 steps because:

300:20=15

And if the width of each step is 25 centimeters, then the base should be 37.5 centimeters long (15x25 = 37.5).

Step-by-step instructions for making stairs to the second floor

Having finished with the calculations, start making all the necessary structural elements. Kosoura must be made of solid and dense wood, since they will bear both the weight of people and the weight of the entire ladder. Cut out a template from thick cardboard, making cutouts to match the dimensions of the steps, while the slope should be the same as the angle of the ladder itself. Cut grooves at the ends of the stringers, by means of which they will be attached to the floor and base, and then mark it in accordance with a pre-made template.

To cope with the subsequent work, you must prepare:

electric jigsaw;
hammer;
grinder;
drill;
level;
and finally anchor bolts.

Take a jigsaw and use it to make projections on the stringers in accordance with the markings, then carefully sand both sides. Next, cut out fastening holes in the floor beams or, alternatively, install metal supports. In the place where the first step will be located on the first floor, install a support bar, fixing it with anchor bolts. Then install the stringers, be sure to check the slope using the level. Fix the stringers at the top / bottom using the same anchor bolts.

Now you can make the steps yourself. Take dry boards that are at least 3.6 centimeters thick; the width at this time should be similar to the width of future steps, or even slightly larger.

Note! When making risers, you can take boards 2 centimeters thick.

As for the length of the blanks, it should be the same as the width of the entire structure (that is, within 80-120 centimeters).

When finished trimming, carefully sand each piece to remove any unevenness and sharp cuts. The installation process itself is nothing complicated: coat the lower cuts on the stringers with wood glue, attach the risers and align everything around the edges. Next, fix them using self-tapping screws, and lay the steps themselves on top. If you do not use glue, the wooden parts will create squeaks under load.

Lay all the steps in the same way, and then start attaching the railing. Make balusters for railings from square beams or, as an option, curly wooden blanks. You can mount it on each step or through one (it all depends on what the characteristics of the span are). Fasten with self-tapping screws, do not forget to close the caps with decorative plugs. If the staircase to the second floor with your own hands will be located approximately in the middle of the room, you can equip the railings immediately on each side.

At the end, sand the finished ladder well and treat it with an antiseptic. Then paint the wood or open it with varnish. It is important that the final surface is not too smooth - the roughness of the steps will significantly increase the safety of the inhabitants of the house. Apply the topcoat in two or three layers, and the previous one must dry completely before each new layer.

Straight concrete staircase

If your house is spacious enough, and the interfloor floors are made of concrete, then you can easily build a concrete staircase. Typically, people often construct one of two design options:

monolithic;
combined type (here only the stringer is made of concrete).

Note that option # 2 looks much more attractive. However, concrete stairs in any case require formwork, as well as a base that is strong enough to support this weight.

First, prepare everything you need, in particular:

moisture resistant plywood (can be replaced with edged board upholstered with PET film);
concrete;
strong beams 10x10 centimeters in cross-section;
self-tapping screws;
fittings or special knitting wire.

Note! The thickness of the board for the construction of the formwork must be 3 centimeters, and the plywood must be at least 1.8 centimeters thick. Calculate all the required dimensions in the same way as for the structure from the previous paragraph of the article, however, the strength characteristics of the base are required maximum.

Start the work with the construction of the formwork: take plywood or boards, knock them down in accordance with a previously drawn up drawing, avoiding cracks and observing the required slope.

When the formwork is ready, install it between the floors and fix it with the same beams. Then lay out the reinforcement rods inside the formwork, tie them with steel wire. Where the railings will be installed, fix the wooden plugs, and only then fill the entire box with the prepared concrete solution. It is important that the formwork is filled immediately, in one go, otherwise the solidity of the future structure will be broken.

After the concrete has set, dismantle the box, and moisten the formed steps from time to time with water, otherwise their surface may crack. Start finishing only when the concrete gains strength and dries completely. During the construction of stairs of the combined type, stringers are poured in the same way, and the formwork should be narrower (which is typical, the installation of steps should be taken into account here).

The finished monolithic structure can be finished with stone, wood, decorative tiles and other finishing materials. Before proceeding directly to the cladding, take into account the weight - for example, the same tile will have a much greater load on the foundation than wood. You can attach any steps to concrete kosoura, but they will look especially attractive with wood.

Video - Self-made stairs

How to build a metal staircase

It is not so difficult to assemble such a structure, but this will require skills in working with a welding machine and metal elements in general.

So, first, prepare the following materials and equipment:

grinder with a grinding attachment;
channel number 10;
file;
iron corners;
metal in sheets;
actually welding.

First, take a channel, cut it into pieces and assemble a frame from them of the same size as the staircase to the second floor with your own hands. Next, take the corners and weld them to the ends of the resulting frame with the same pitch equal to the height of the steps. In this case, it is important that all corners are located exactly perpendicular to each other. To facilitate the installation of the structure, the steps can be welded after the frame is mounted and fixed.

Attach the upper frame elements to the upper floor with high quality, using anchor bolts for this purpose. Attach the lower ends to the floor of the lower floor. Then weld on the sheet metal steps and install the railing. Having finished with the assembly, carefully grind the joints with a special nozzle or, alternatively, with ordinary files. Finally, coat the entire structure with an anti-corrosion primer.

How to make a spiral staircase

The main advantages of a spiral staircase are excellent decorative properties, as well as the fact that such a structure does not take up much space. For example, a staircase with a height of 2.5 meters will consist of 16-17 steps, while the base will be approximately 2 meters in diameter. One of the most popular ways to construct spiral staircases to the second floor is to "string" triangular / trapezoidal steps onto the central axis. In this case, the width of the wide part will be from 30 to 35 centimeters, and the narrow one - only 15 centimeters.

For self-made stairs to the second floor you will need:

two steel pipes 5 and 5.5 centimeters;
primer mixture;
wooden slats with which the template will be made;
file;
corners;
welding machine.

A pipe with a smaller diameter will serve us as the main stand, therefore, its length should be the same as the interfloor distance. It is also recommended that the ladder be concreted next to the base to make it more stable (do not forget to set the structure vertically in advance). The large pipe must be cut into cylinders that are approximately 15 centimeters long. Make all cuts strictly at a 90 degree angle, otherwise you will not be able to align all the steps horizontally.

Note! The cylinders should be put on the main pipe as tightly as possible, and there should be no backlashes. If the joint is loose, you will have to use sealing rings.

To make the steps, you need a template made from wooden battens. Glue the latter in such a way that the corners placed in the frame form steps of the required dimensions.

Weld each rung to the corresponding cylinder, then sand thoroughly. When all the necessary elements are ready, start assembling the entire structure. Slide rungs on axle, set corners and weld securely.

The last step is the installation of the railings and the final finishing of the entire structure. For the manufacture of handrails, you can use:

fittings;
thin profile;
small diameter chrome-plated pipes.

Forged railings will also look very impressive. At the same time, do not forget that all metal surfaces must be carefully sanded, treated with a primer mixture and painted.

A spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled in a similar way, for which wooden steps are used. Wood blanks should be made in the form of trapeziums, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters is made in the narrow part. Further, using special seals, the steps must be strung on the axle and fixed there. At the end, a railing is attached, the wood is primed, painted and decorated with decor.

Features of DIY assembly of stairs to the second floor on bolts

As a result, one should consider another curious version of how a staircase to the second floor is being built with your own hands. In this case, it will be about the design on the bolts, which got its name from him. Bolzen, which translates to "bolt". In other words, we are talking about a structure that is fixed with special bolts. Although in reality these are not even bolts, but fasteners made in the form of pins, at the ends of which there is a thread. Thanks to the bolts, the railings and steps are connected to each other, and also attached to the wall. As a result, we get an airy and light staircase that can decorate any private house. Moreover, in this case there are no risers at all.

Among other things, stairs of this type are both compact enough and stretched on a specific section of the wall. Despite the fact that these structures seem light, in reality they are strong and durable, they can safely withstand several hundred kilograms, which is why, in fact, they are gaining more and more popularity in recent years.

Note! It is quite obvious that it is impossible to install such a staircase in the center of the room, because the fastening, as we have already found out, is carried out to the wall. But the most important thing is that only high-quality and durable materials should be used for the construction.

It is extremely difficult to calculate such a ladder with your own hands, but it can be purchased ready-made or ordered by specialists for an individual project. For more details on the installation of this structure, see the video below.

That's all, good luck and warm winters!

Video - How to install a wooden ladder on the bolts

If there is more than one floor in a private house, you cannot do without a staircase. But besides the fact that it must connect the floors, the staircase must also fit into the interior. Therefore, when choosing a design, you need to pay attention not only not to the dimensions and how much space it takes in the room, but also to take into account the style. Then the staircase to the second floor, made by hand, will be not only a functional item, but also an interior decoration. The work is difficult and responsible, but you can do it.

Types of stairs to the second floor in a private house

All of these structures can be made of metal, wood, concrete, glass, marble and other decorative stones, and combinations of these materials are often used. But most often the staircase to the second floor is made of wood with your own hands, a little less often - from metal or combinations of metal and wood.

In addition, there are two types of degrees - open and closed. In open stairs there is only a horizontally located part - the step itself, in closed ones - there is also a vertical part - a riser.

Design standards

When developing a staircase project, it is important to make it comfortable and safe. There are very specific numbers and recommendations that relate to the parameters of the steps and the general angle of rise:

The number of steps is determined by simply dividing the height of the planned staircase by the selected riser height. For example, the height of the room is 285 cm. It was decided to make the elevation angle 40 °. According to the table, we see that the height of the riser is 19 cm. Divide 285 cm / 19 cm = 15 steps. If the number turns out to be even, we accordingly slightly adjust the size to get an odd number.

If one of the steps turns out to be several centimeters less, this height is "taken away" from the first step. All others, including the last one, must be the same.

When choosing the size of the steps, the comfort can be checked. If the doubled riser height is added to the selected step width, the result should be from 60 ms to 64 cm. The second check option - the sum of the tread and riser lengths is optimally 45 cm, but deviations of 2 cm in both directions are permissible.

All these parameters should be laid down when designing a house. If the house has already been built, you have to proceed from the fact that there is and adjust the dimensions to the existing dimensions.

Spiral staircase

As already mentioned, a spiral staircase in a private house takes up the least amount of space. But it has a serious drawback: it is inconvenient to walk on it, and it is almost impossible to lift anything bulky to the second floor. So they are not very popular, although they look good and fit well into any interior.

Calculation features

When designing a spiral staircase, one must take into account that in some positions, there are other steps above the head. Therefore, making small risers will not work.

The next feature is that the steps all have an unequal width - with one narrower, with the other wider. With a narrow part, they are attached to the central support (pillar), with a wide part - to walls or balusters. The standard for the width of the tread is measured in the middle part, and the wide one should not be more than 40 cm.

The width of the span is from 50 cm to 100 cm. The distance to the entire structure is doubled - a square with a side from 100 cm to 200 cm is required.

Column-mounted structure

This type of spiral staircase is the easiest to make: a pipe is placed on which wooden elements are put on - steps, intermediate cylinders, etc.

If you look in more detail, then in addition to a metal pipe (in this case with a diameter of 40 mm), steps and balusters (available in any design), there are turned wooden cylinders (segments) that set the distance from one step to another.

On the other hand, the distance between the steps is maintained using saws on balusters. Steps are attached to these grooves (with glue + fasteners).

Do-it-yourself installation of a staircase to the second floor begins with the installation of a pillar. A hole is made in the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second, equal to the diameter of the pillar. We insert the pipe into the hole, put on an enlarged washer, tighten the nut. Further, the assembly is simple: the corresponding elements are placed on the rod, in parallel with the installation of the step, a baluster is placed and fixed. The dimensions of the steps for this spiral staircase with the given parameters are in the drawing.

Steps are cut from glued board or furniture board. You can use an array, but furniture quality, that is, without any defects and dried, with a moisture content of no more than 8-12%. Although glued wood is considered more reliable: it will definitely not lead and it will not crack when it shrinks.

For an example of an assembly of a similar design, see the video. It has a prefabricated post, but you can also use a solid one, although it will be inconvenient to assemble the steps - each time you have to climb the stairs.

The construction of a spiral staircase made of metal is presented in the following video clip. For those who are friends with welding, this option will be easier.

Spiral staircase to the second floor: photos of interesting options

With or without railings, the choice is yours. In the photo on the right, a wooden spiral staircase on a curved stringer is a difficult element for execution Forged spiral staircases are a classic of the genre

Marching stairs to the second floor

Marching stairs are the most popular. Firstly, it is convenient to use them, and secondly, the technology of their construction has been worked out long ago. There are few features of the calculation. It is important to decide on the number of marches. In one area there should be from 3 to 15 o steps. The most convenient ones have 11-13 pieces. If by calculation it turns out that there should be more steps, they are divided into several sections, between which platforms are made. The dimensions of the platforms are multiples of the step length (600-630 mm). Then the ascent and descent will not cause inconvenience.

Views

Ladders with platforms take up a lot of space. If there is not enough space, turns are added. The most common option is to place the staircase on two adjacent walls at the corners. Also, to save space, you can make cross-country (turning) steps instead of a platform. Only one point: the section with winder steps is the most traumatic. If the family has small children or elderly people, it is better to make a playground.

As mentioned earlier, marching stairs are made on kosoura (beams with a sawtooth edge) and on terivs (just an inclined beam). Attaching steps to bowstring beams requires more time and skill. Usually, a seat is cut out for each step - a groove is selected in the board. For additional reliability, bars are still nailed from below or corners are installed. The option with corners is reliable, but rather controversial from an aesthetic point of view. If the entire staircase is made of wood, the metal parts are very "harsh" to the eye. Neatly processed bars look much more organic. However, with a sufficient thickness of the boards for the steps and the width of the bowstring, you can do without additional fasteners. In this case, it is important that the steps do not bend, otherwise they may jump out of the grooves.

The assembly of steps on kosoura is simpler: you have two or three supports to which the cut-to-size parts are attached. The main task is to correctly mark and cut out the stringers.

This is a staircase on kosoura - one of the fragments of the assembly

Installation of a flight staircase with step-by-step photos

Kosoura are made from a wide board 75-80 mm thick and 350-400 mm wide. If there is no massive dry board, glued boards can be used. How to calculate the kosour is described in the form, but you can assemble the stairs to the second floor not only as a stand-alone one.

An example of assembling a staircase on kosoura near the wall further. First, we fix the supporting pillars on which the run-in steps will rest. We attach the upper stringers to these posts.

Then we put the lower ones. We fix the stringer near the wall on top of the decorative board - it is easier to wash it and the dirt is less visible than on the wall.

We fasten the lower stringers - one to the post, the second to the finishing board

Intermediate stringers are installed last. It's easier to dock all the elements this way.

Installation of steps begins. After they are cut, sanded and painted, everything is simple: put in place, screw the hole under the self-tapping screw, then tighten it.

The next step is to attach the balusters. In this case, they are made of stainless steel pipe with wood inserts. A hole is drilled under each baluster, into which the tube is inserted, it is fixed on a hairpin or in any other available way.

Photos of interesting marching stairs to the 2nd floor

Metal and glass - an interesting combination An interesting idea, and from the end - a pantry

Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, implies the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor, an internal staircase is indispensable. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will be quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it must be adapted before installation and adapted to specific premises, or engaged in their reconstruction (redevelopment). And this is additional costs and time.

In most cases, it is more advisable to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since it will turn out to be about the same in terms of time. The simplest and most inexpensive option is a timber structure. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of choosing lumber, drawing up a drawing of a staircase and the features of its assembly.

With regard to a private house, two are most common - a spiral staircase and a march staircase. The first option is quite complicated, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without practical skills and experience in this area. You will have to do specific engineering calculations, which means that you cannot do without the help of a professional at least at this stage of preparation. It is not entirely correct to focus only on the schemes available on the Internet. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed taking into account the peculiarities of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase itself, especially a wooden one, is far from simple process.

For DIY assembly the optimal solution is a marching wooden staircase... Based on the height of the first floor room, there can be one or two spans (rotary structure).

But in details, even completely identical stairs can be very different. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses differ in many parameters (dimensions, ceiling heights, layout, internal content), then following a single standard is a futile business. By the way, the author has already drawn the attention of the reader to this. Therefore, further - only general recommendations that will help to competently draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the structural features, and install it in place.

general information

There are several options for the execution of mid-flight stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for installation with your own hands, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.

When describing any product or prefabricated structure, you cannot do without special terminology. The following pictures explain well what the main elements of the staircase are called.

Preparation of materials

When choosing a tree species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to pine or larch. The latter is even better, since it is less prone to rotting. In addition, as it absorbs liquid, it only gets stronger. Since there will certainly be fumes in any living room, it is more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjoining room. All other species - cedar, oak and a number of others - hardly belong to the budget options for a wooden staircase.
The durability of the structure largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will "lead" quite quickly. Drying boards with your own hands is both troublesome and complex. You will need not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the technique. We'll have to ensure constant temperature, high-quality ventilation, and so on. The conclusion suggests itself unequivocally - it is inexpedient to save on material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you buy boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.

Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs

Width

When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. First, whether it will be convenient to move up the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to transfer bulky goods from floor to floor (furnishings, household appliances, and so on). For a private house recommended width of the internal ladder - 130 ± 20.

Ladder height

When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home craftsmen" are guided by the ceiling of the first floor room. This is not true. When drawing up a drawing of a staircase, not only this parameter is taken into account, but also the total thickness of the floor and floor of the second room (together with the finishing). That is, the last step should be on the same level with it.

Span heights

This is the distance between the steps and the overlap of the second floor (ceiling). It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head down is not an option to save space. Basically, masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely anyone's height exceeds this value.

The steepness of a wooden staircase

The optimum is considered to be a slope of 40 ± 5º. Exceeding this value will complicate the ascent to the second floor for elderly people, young children, and also for those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But even a flatter design has a number of disadvantages. The consumption of wood increases, and the space for its installation will require much more. Here you need to choose the option that is most suitable for a particular house.

Steps

Tread. You should focus on the 45th size of a person's foot, then it will be convenient for everyone to walk up the stairs. Based on this, the recommended step width is within 28 ± 2.

Riser. The optimum value, regardless of the design features of a wooden staircase, is 18 ± 2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to navigate along it.

Number of steps. Calculation is required here. The distance between adjacent ones is determined simply - the thickness of their board + riser. When a fractional value is obtained, it is rounded to the nearest whole value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs by it.

What to consider:

The dimensions of all steps of the main staircase must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
If there are more than 18 steps, then it is recommended to provide a platform in the staircase design (therefore, at least 2 flights). It is called differently - observation, swivel, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? It is worth considering here, taking into account the peculiarities of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.

Ladder length

This is the last step in the calculation. Initial data - the parameters of the steps and their number. As practice shows, when independently drawing up a drawing of a staircase, it often does not fit the estimated length of the premises on the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:

Add one march. This decision is more difficult, since you will have to mount an additional platform, and, therefore, re-perform the basic calculations.
Provide in the construction of the stairs several turning (run-in) steps. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.

Features of mounting a wooden staircase

Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a one-march staircase, then assembling it according to any other scheme will not be difficult.

Specificity of preparation of component parts

Steps. For them, segments of the board are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvatures. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. It is no longer advisable, since both the consumption of material and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for safety reasons of moving up the stairs (taking into account the carried loads).

At the stage of preparing the steps, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. It will come in handy here. The length of the steps is chosen depending on the chosen scheme of a wooden staircase. But their protrusions beyond the stringers by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.

Risers. They are not load-bearing elements and often play only a decorative role. Here you can save a little on them by using a board for 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such structures look even more impressive, and, in addition, cleaning of spans is greatly simplified.

Kosoura. These are the supporting elements for the entire staircase, therefore, the lumber for them should be chosen especially carefully. Particular attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both kosour should be like "twin brothers", otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out to be asymmetric, with distortions, curvatures, and so on. The figures show some options for kosour.

The feasibility of making fencing elements with your own hands is questionable. It is good if it is possible to process balusters, handrails on machine equipment. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Given the fact that it is they (especially with a side view) that are first of all striking, such costs are fully justified.

The nuances of installing a wooden staircase

Fastening the stringers. Fixing the extreme on the wall is possible only if the base is strong enough (a house made of bricks, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire structure of the ladder is mounted on racks.

To prevent the lower part from moving, a support block is installed on the ground floor. The top of the span is fixed in the floor itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or "fastened" to it with anchor bolts. The stringers themselves must also be fastened together so that they are not "led" in the process of wood drying. For example, like this.

Risers. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are attached to the stringers.

Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Side mounts - on the support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.

Balusters. At first, only two are mounted - the upper and the lower. A cord is pulled between them. Guided by it, it is easy to install along the spans of the stairs and align all the rest.

Fastening handrails. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this a priori does not mean that these elements must also be made of wood. It is quite difficult to make them out of it with your own hands. This requires not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Handrail options are plastic or metal.

The final stage

After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all connections, a number of measures are taken:

Grinding of all structural parts.
Impregnation with special / compounds (from fire, rot, wood-boring insects).
Surface decoration. The painting option is not for a private house. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting compound, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on the general style of decoration of the room.