Sticky drops appeared on the rose. How to protect indoor hibiscus from pests and diseases
Aphid is a sucking insect from the order of hemiptera of green, brown, black color, 2 mm. Forms colonies mainly on the tops of the shoots. There are colonies of wingless and winged individuals. When the plant is located outdoors (on the ground) in the summer, ants that feed on the sweet secretion of aphids are often indicators of damage, and droplets of sticky honeydew are also observed on the leaves.
Aphid control measures. One- or two-time treatment with Aktara (spraying at a concentration of 4 g / 5 L and watering at a concentration of 1 g / 10 L), Akarin, Agravertin or Iskra-bio (spraying with 5-8 ml / L), or another insecticide according to the instructions. During processing, insects may not die immediately, but after a few hours. All plants in the house should be treated as the aphids move easily.
Weevils.
Weevils are shiny small beetles with elongated to rounded body shapes. Distinctive feature - the presence of a rostrum (elongated part of the head). They feed on leaves, flowers, roots, sometimes being inside plant tissues. Often, adult insects feed on aerial parts of plants, and their larvae feed on roots. On indoor plants, the presence of a weevil can be identified by round or semicircular holes in the leaves. It is not possible to see the weevil right away, since it is nocturnal. The most effective will be systemic preparations of intestinal action. Measures to combat the weevil. Manual assembly adult insects, spraying with Aktara (4 g / 5 l), spilling of soil with Aktara (1 g / 10 l), 4-fold treatment every 7-10 days.
The spider mite is a spider-like arthropod that feeds on cell sap through leaf bites. It is a frequent pest of indoor plants. Signs of damage: on the underside of the leaf (sometimes on the upper side) there are small, about 0.5 mm, light grains (as if sprinkled with flour), with a massive defeat a cobweb is visible. The leaf at the bite sites becomes discolored, covered with small yellow spots. Subsequently, with a strong defeat, the leaf falls off. The mite spreads easily through the air, is present always and everywhere, but affects only weakened plants. Strong plants kept in optimal conditions are able to withstand the mite. Risk factors include too dry air, overheating of a plant or a clod of earth in the sun, drying out of the soil, dehydration (sometimes roots rot and die off due to excessive watering), improper feeding, often an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.
Methods of dealing with spider mite... In order to prevent plants, it is often useful to spray with cold (namely cold) water, especially the underside of the leaf. For emergency assistance, you need to wash the plant in the shower and treat it with acaricides. IN room conditions it is better to use Vertimek, Fitoverm. However, these drugs do not work at all stages of the tick - at least three treatments are required at + 200C after 10 days, or at + 300C after 3-4 days. Treatment with Akarin, Agravertin, Neoron will also help (4-fold treatments with an interval of 7-10 days). However, if the rules for caring for the plant are not followed, chemical treatments will only help for a while. To completely get rid of the tick, it is necessary to provide the plant optimal conditions... Then strong cell walls are formed, which the tick is not able to damage. Preventive medical exposure is effective. ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes weekly (to prevent the development of a new generation of individuals from eggs, which occurs precisely within 7 days). Methods of dealing with root gall nematodes. It is necessary to try to remove severely damaged areas of the roots. Thermally treat the root system and soil by immersion in a large volume of water with a temperature of + 500C. Of chemicals Fitoverm or Agravertin are recommended when applying dry powder to the soil, but in this form, the preparations in retail absent. Ekogel turned out to be effective against nematodes, which was initially considered only as an anti-stress drug. Chitosan, which is part of Ecogel, strengthens the cell walls so much that nutrition and spread of the nematode in plant tissues becomes impossible. It should be borne in mind that in some plants the presence of nodules on the roots is the norm, they should not be confused with galls. In representatives of the legume family, nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in such nodules. The water-oil emulsion is based on the effect of oil blocking the spiracles of insects. To give a greater covering ability, the oil is mixed with soap solutions. For a glass of water, take a little dishwashing detergent or soap and 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of machine (maybe sunflower) oil, all this is shaken until an emulsion is formed and applied with a cotton swab or brush to all surfaces of the plant, and it is imperative to protect the soil from emulsion drops. The plant is left treated for several hours, then thoroughly washed under the shower. The tolerance of the leaves to this effect should be checked.
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Hibiscus: care
Who doesn't want to have a flowering tree in their home? Especially if, by whimsicality, it is inferior to many of its brothers! Chinese hibiscus is called a rose for a reason, some species of flowers really resemble a blossoming pink bud. How to ensure the conditions in which the plant will bloom?
Family: mallow. Flowering: regularly. Growing up: simple.
Hibiscus - Chinese rose (species, photo)
The first information about the plant belongs to Ancient Greece... By the way, the Mediterranean climate is a favorable environment for chinese rose! Its habitat covers countries of tropical and subtropical climates. For example, on the streets of Vietnam or Thailand, the rose feels great! The flower belongs to the mallow family, and its genus includes not only shrubs, but trees and even herbs, in total there are up to 500 different species.
In places of primordial growth, its flowers were woven into the hair of local aboriginal women, perhaps that is why the plant was nicknamed "the flower of beautiful women"! Initially, Chinese hibiscus was a tree up to 5 meters high, but for indoor cultivation, breeders bred more miniature varieties. And, although the rose allows you to admire its flowers for only one day, the flowering period can last for months! And flowers of double forms will delight you up to three days.
Do you know?
In Malaysia, the flower received the national title. Its five-petal variety is a symbol of the five commandments of Islam!
By the way, the species is not limited to only the Chinese representative. The Syrian hibiscus, native to Asia Minor, is a shrub suitable for outdoor cultivation. However, only for the southern strip of Russia. Indeed, in a short summer, he simply does not have time to bloom! Its flowers are often confused with mallow.
There is another species that is sometimes called a weed, this is the trifoliate hibiscus. A flower up to 80 cm high has chosen the African continent, and it grows by itself in pastures, wastelands. Perhaps that's why he got such an insulting nickname!
syrian hibiscus and trifoliate
Dissected hibiscus - this beautiful view received the name "princess earrings". It has the shape of a bell with curved petals reminiscent of the wings of an exotic bird! It is native to Brazil, grows in the coastal strip, or rainforest, suitable for home floriculture.
hibiscus dissected
Do you know?
The plant is edible! Flowers go into tea, leaves are added to salads, seeds are used for confectionery purposes, and ripe fruits are very much appreciated for making jams, compotes and even soups.
By the way, the famous hibiscus tea has nothing to do with our usual indoor rose tree! The raw material for it is the calyx of Sudanese hibiscus flowers, which increase in size after flowering. Unlike its relatives, this species is distributed mainly in Arab countries, especially in Egypt and Sudan due to climatic preferences.
sudanese rose
Care rules
At home, hibiscus is not picky. Sometimes you can watch gorgeous flowering plants in completely unsuitable conditions! And yet, if you want to achieve a beautiful crown and long flowering, you need to make a little effort! Hibiscus care and cultivation.
Temperature and lighting
The flower's only whim is that it needs light! In summer, it should be diffused sunlight, shaded from direct rays. In winter, when there is a shortage of sun, it is necessary to provide it with artificial lighting in order to extend the daylight hours to 10-12 hours. How to create complementary lighting for flowers?
Chinese hibiscus is able to bloom even in winter if the room is warm and light. Boldly take it out in the summer! The flower is not afraid of temperature changes. But when it drops to 12 degrees, it is advisable to return it to the room, in such conditions the roots stop absorbing moisture.
Watering and moisture
In summer, wide leaves actively evaporate moisture, the higher the temperature, the more active watering should be. However, don't overdo it! It is better to water it less often, but more abundantly than supplying water often and in small doses!
In addition, the flower itself signals the need for watering by dropping the leaves. Watering is preferable in the morning, in the afternoon the roots consume water more actively. With decreasing temperature, watering is reduced. 8 questions about watering indoor plants.
Be sure to spray the Chinese rose, she needs wet air regardless of the season! Sometimes give the plant a warm shower, after covering the pot with a bag. Hibiscus, the care of which is not difficult even for a novice grower, is a very grateful plant. Subject to the minimum conditions, it will definitely bloom! It is not for nothing that it is called the “flower of love”. During abundant flowering it is desirable to minimize spraying. Indeed, moisture falling on the flower petals accelerates the process of their wilting.
Fertilizers and feeding
Experienced growers have noticed that excess phosphorus does not the best way affects the quality of flowering! Conventional flowering fertilizers contain minerals in following proportion ≈15-21-25 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). A more successful dosage would be ≈ 10-4-12 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Therefore, carefully study the composition of the fertilizer! How to choose a mineral fertilizer.
To prevent chlorosis, Chinese hibiscus can sometimes be fed leaf-by-leaf magnesium. The plant reacts well to organic fertilizers - mullein and ash. Fertilizing a rose is especially important in spring-summer period, during flowering and growing new leaves. By the way, before "feeding" the roots with fertilizer, you must first moisten them with water for irrigation! How to apply organics to flowers.
Will be useful foliar feeding - spraying with stimulating drugs, organic or mineral fertilizers in a reduced concentration (10 times lower than with root dressing). In winter, if the leaves continue to grow, you can fertilize the rose tree once a month. With a pronounced dormant period, fertilizers are not used!
Hibiscus pruning!
Caring for hibiscus involves regular pruning, it is needed to renew the crown and is the guarantor of flowering. If your pet already blooms regularly and also has a crown the desired shape, he doesn't need a haircut. Although it is said that this flower can be cut all year round, this is not true! In conditions of short daylight hours, it will be difficult for him to grow new leaves, and the old ones will turn yellow. Therefore, it is safer to cut the crown in the second half of March-April, when the sun is already active. Then it is guaranteed to bloom in June-July. Do not be afraid of "cardinal haircuts", new leaves will grow quickly!
Pruning is best done three days after watering. Keep in mind that the location of the leaf gives direction to the escape! So, leaving the leaf growing down at the extreme, you will get a new twig that will repeat its direction. As shown in the photo, back off the sheet by about 5 mm when trimming.
Reproduction and transplantation
The cuttings obtained after pruning are easily rooted in water, after which they can be planted in the ground. Some varieties reproduce successfully by seed. It is advisable to transplant Chinese hibiscus by the transshipment method, since its roots are fragile and thin! A transplant is required only if the rose, in your opinion, is cramped in the pot. In a too large container, the tree gives new leaves, but does not bloom. How to choose a flower pot.
The soil for the plant must be nutritious and moisture-consuming; for this, the garden soil is mixed with humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. The flower needs to provide good drainage and air access to the roots. Don't forget to loosen the ground sometimes! The first time after transplanting the rose is recommended to be watered from the pallet to stimulate root growth. What kind of soil will suit your flower.
Growing problems?
Hibiscus, which requires little effort to care for, can still be capricious sometimes! What are the most common ailments associated with?
- If hibiscus turns yellow and leaves fall ...
In winter, lack of sun can be the cause of leaf fall. For deciduous plants this is the norm! To keep up the strength room rose, you can carry out foliar feeding with a solution of magnesium sulfate. However, if there is massive yellowing, it is worth checking the rose for pests. For example, a spider mite! He especially often attacks weakened plants. Its presence is betrayed by the cobweb between the leaves, and sometimes the tick itself can be seen on the back of the leaf. In any case, bathe the rose in the shower more often as a preventive measure!
Another reason may be a change in temperature. In the cool, the roots stop drinking water, so the plant can be easily poured. Be careful!
- If a hibiscus has faded leaves ...
In this case, the spider mite could "try"! But, perhaps, water plaque or dust has simply accumulated on the leaves. Keep in mind that the older the leaf, the less bright its color becomes. Mostly young leaves are juicy! Formative pruning, sufficient light and occasional warm showers can save the day.
- If a hibiscus has deformed leaves ...
This phenomenon is often observed after transplantation if root damage has occurred! The rose will quickly recover if you provide it with good lighting, regular watering and feeding, including foliar. It is worth noting that slight deformation of the leaves, namely corrugation, is a natural feature of Chinese hibiscus!
Also, the reason may be a sharp change in conditions of detention: cold snap, watering or spraying with cool water, excess fertilizers. Delicate leaves noticeably react to any changes, especially with regards to the temperature regime. Even a short-term drop in temperature could cause deformation of young foliage! If conditions are stabilized, new leaves should grow even.
- If the tips of the leaves of a hibiscus dry ...
Usually this situation is observed in winter, when the apartment is dry from batteries and there is not enough light. Winter is a difficult time for a flower! If possible, you need to provide it with artificial supplementary lighting, often spray, wash in the shower and water with great care. During this period, do not rush to fertilize the hibiscus, it is better to start feeding in the spring. If the room is cool, or the pot is on a cool windowsill, the roots may stop absorbing water altogether. In this case, watering is reduced to a minimum so as not to flood the plant.
The plant needs sunlight for flowering, at least 6 hours a day! Put it closer to the window, in the summer you can safely take it out onto the balcony or veranda. Fresh air works wonders with the plant! But, do not forget to shade the tree from direct midday rays.
- If the hibiscus drops its buds ...
According to one version, he may not have enough light, or power. An overabundance of minerals in the soil is also possible! Think if you overfeed your flower? Top dressing should be done no more often than once every 10 days, strictly observing the dosage. Also, the reason could be a change in location, or temperature. In general, when the rose has bloomed, it is better not to change the conditions of detention.
- Sticky juice on hibiscus leaves ...
Droplets of sticky substance with inside leaf is normal for a Chinese rose! It can be the result of temperature changes, or overheating. And yet, it is not superfluous to check the plant for the presence of pests (aphids, scale insects).
It is important to know:
If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments, or on the forum. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.
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Indoor hibiscus. Care
The very first indoor “flower” that I have grown with my own hands is Chinese hibiscus, or, as we called this plant, Chinese rose. I remember very well the day of his appearance in our house. I am 15 years old. In the hall of the clinic, a huge and obviously sometime beautiful bush... Constantly looking around, I 
i break off a twig and hide it in my bag.
Over the years, the Chinese rose has experienced many different events with me. And just recently I celebrated her 25th anniversary.
Chinese hibiscus, or Chinese rose (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a plant of the Malvaceae family (Malvaceae). Homeland of this incredibly beautiful flowering shrub Southeast Asia and Polynesia. In nature, it reaches a height of 4 m or more. Thanks to the work of breeders, today there are about 250 varieties of Chinese roses of a wide variety of colors, and 25 years ago we knew only the red-flowered double form.
Those who decide to start a hibiscus should remember that this is a sprawling, fast-growing shrub that will need a large pot, and, therefore, a fairly spacious place in the house. True, compact, slow-growing varieties have now appeared on sale.
Hibiscus is not difficult to grow from non-lignified green shoots left over from annual spring pruning. Cuttings with 2-3 leaves are cut from them. Large leaf blades are cut in half to reduce moisture evaporation. Sometimes, in the process of rooting, the leaves on the cutting fall off, but the cutting itself remains alive. As soon as roots develop on it, new leaves grow from dormant buds.
You can root hibiscus in water. When small white growths (callus) appear at the lower end of the cutting, it is planted in a small pot in an earthen mixture, watered abundantly and placed in a greenhouse. It can be replaced by a plastic bag or transparent plastic bottle, always with ventilation holes. With the appearance of young leaves, the plant can be removed from the greenhouse and placed on permanent place.
Rooted cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Already 4-month-old young shoots “throw out” bud by bud from the apical point of growth It is funny to see how tiny buds appear on a thin stem. They gradually increase, and within a few days a huge double flower blooms, up to 10 cm in diameter!
It lasts exactly one day, and then falls off, giving way to the next one. Continuous flowering occurs until late autumn, and on the southern windows - all year round.
Once the hibiscus begins to prepare for flowering, more attention should be paid to it. The fact is that buds and flowers are a great treat for peach aphids. If you find uninvited guests, then immediately treat the plant with Fitoverm insecticide or any other drug that kills the pest. If there are too many aphids, it is better to remove the emerging buds until the plant is completely healed.
The hibiscus needs to be shaped. In the spring, mid-March-April, long shoots are shortened to stimulate branching. If the plant has only one shoot, it is cut at an arbitrary height. If a bush has formed, then certain pruning rules recommended by experts must be observed. Each shoot is trimmed 1/3 above the leaf facing outward. I did a little experiment. Some of the shoots were pruned according to the recommendation, and some contrary to it, that is, above the inner bud. Those branches that were cut according to the rules gave several lateral shoots. And the “wrong” ones had only one young shoot from the upper bud.
In the spring, at the same time as pruning, hibiscus is transplanted or transferred to a fresh substrate; young plants annually, adults, start 7-10 years - as needed. For large-sized tubular specimens, change annually upper layer land.
Hibiscus are big "gluttons", so I add a little rotted mullein to the fresh substrate.
Earlier, when I was just starting to practice indoor floriculture, I collected rotted foliage in the park and mixed it into the earthen mixture when transplanting. It is necessary to feed hibiscus every 2 weeks with fertilizer for flowering crops.
In summer, it is better to take them out into the open air. Watering with soft rainwater, an abundance of sunlight, fresh air temper the plant before a long and difficult winter. The minimum temperature that Chinese hibiscus can withstand is plus 10-12 ″ C. A further decrease in temperature can lead to hypothermia of the root system and the death of the plant.
In the autumn-winter period, the flowering of hibiscus weakens or stops altogether. Half-opened buds fall off, but new ones are not formed. A period of relative dormancy begins. At this time, the plant is fertilized no more than once a month. With the inclusion of central heating batteries, another danger appears - the invasion of a spider mite. This pest should also be eliminated with the help of appropriate drugs. A few years ago, my hibiscus got sick. I still don't know what happened. The leaves began to fly around, the shoots stopped growing, the growth points dried up. Wait for death. I didn't plant a plant, took it out of the pot, examined the roots. They were knotty and very densely intertwined, I did not find anything else alarming. Slightly "stirring up" the root system, cut it a little with scissors and shortened the shoots. I planted the bush in another pot, completely changing the substrate. Now all that was left was to wait. Hibiscus showed no signs of life for about a year. He did not die, but he did not grow. No fertilizers or stimulants helped. Desperate, I began to pour it with urea diluted in water. Slowly, very slowly, the plant began to revive. For 8 months I tried to help him, and when my hands dropped, my hibiscus suddenly "woke up": young leaves began to appear, shoots grew. Every day he reminded himself more and more of his former self. He celebrated his 25th birthday covered in new, shiny, dense foliage.
Chinese hibiscus is propagated not only by cuttings, but also by seeds. However, of all the varietal seeds found on the market, I managed to grow only the Tsar-Kolokol hibiscus. All 5 seeds sprung up together after 3 days, and after 4 months the seedlings reached 50-70 cm in height and began to prepare for flowering. One of them opened a huge (15 cm in diameter!) Flower. The seedlings, left in small pots for lack of space, showed amazing vitality. Sometimes the substrate in them completely dried up, the leaves hung and it seemed that the plants could not be saved. But as soon as the pots were immersed in an ox, the turgor was completely restored within a few hours. In the fall due insufficient lighting the seedlings began to lose their leaves, then the shoots began to die off. When about 10 cm remained to the base of the stems, the dying off stopped. In the spring, the plants started to grow. After the ground warmed up, I planted all 5 seedlings in the ground. However, despite the fact that the inscription "Winter-hardy!" Was adorned on the colorful seed bag, the plants felt uncomfortable in the open field, the growth of shoots stopped. Only 3 seedlings "lasted" until autumn, and none survived the winter.
Thanks to communication with foreign breeders and the entry into our flower market of new, hitherto unknown varieties we now know much more about hibiscus than before. There are varieties whose flower size reaches 25 cm in diameter! Now no one will be surprised by the old variety with red double flowers, but he is dear to me as an old and reliable friend.
On a note:
Gladiolus varieties - GLADIOLUS CHAMPION VARIETIES
Diseases of indoor plants with sticky leaves immediately reveal their cause and pathogen.
Reasons for the appearance of sticky plaque
A sticky leaf in any plant means that organic secretions are deposited on its surface. big amount carbohydrates.
Have healthy plant this is possible only if something that adheres to the outer covers of the leaf has gotten onto the leaf blade from the outside. This happens rarely. And if all the leaves of a plant are suddenly covered with something sticky, these are signs of a pathology that develops so quickly that soon not only a few leaves and the whole plant are covered with a sticky mass, but also the nearest space around. This indicates the presence of a constant process of violation of the integrity of the leaf blade.
Possible consequences
This phenomenon has causes and consequences. The reasons are simple - microorganisms start on the plant that damage the leaves. As a result, juice flows from the wound of the leaf all the time.
Reaching a certain number, the pest forms a sticky cover on the leaves. Because he drinks the juice, his secretions are not only runny but sticky. As a result, the sheet is covered with a continuous layer of the mixture own juice with secretions of organisms that eat it.
This process can have the following consequences.
- 1. The plant loses water and nutrients.
- 2. Fungi, bacteria, viruses can settle on permanent damage, which can cause a new disease.
- 3. The sticky cover clogs the stomata, making it difficult for respiration and water evaporation.
- 4. Since the plant is not provided with sufficient oxygen and carbon dioxide, the formation of organic matter in the process of photosynthesis becomes unproductive. This leads to leaf loss and gradual wilting of the entire plant.
- 5. Closed with a sticky substance, the stomata cease to evaporate water. As a result, the movement of water from root hairs to leaves slows down. For this reason, the supply of minerals to the terrestrial organs of the plant also slows down. This is the reason for the deficiency of minerals. The intensity of bio and photosynthesis decreases. As a result, the plant ceases to bloom and bear fruit, gradually dying.
Thus, a sticky coating on the leaves of a plant is a signal of trouble. Who is the culprit of these troubles?
Organisms that damage the leaf blade
It is difficult to identify a pest that destroys a plant. These are mainly insects or mites, that is, multicellular organisms. However, they are so small that it is difficult to see them. In addition, only a specialist can determine the type.
Nevertheless, it is necessary to know the enemies of plants. Here is a sample list.
- 1. Spider mites are the most common pests of indoor plants. They are arachnids. Their presence is usually detected by indirect signs. Leaf stickiness is the first sign. Then subtle cobwebs appear. If the plant is in bloom, the cobweb concentrates on the flowers. Chrysanthemums, citrus fruits, and roses suffer most from spider mites.
- 2. Scabbards, or false scutes, are small insects from the Hemiptera family. They got their name for the fact that they look as if they were covered from above with a dense protective shell, similar to a shield. Compared to the mite, they are quite large - they can be seen with the naked eye. They lead a sedentary lifestyle. If you try to remove them from the plant, you can feel resistance. The feeling of adhesion of the scabbard to the surface of the sheet is created. They usually concentrate near veins or on a young shoot.
- 3. Aphids for indoor plants are not as popular as the previous ones. The reason is simple - these insects are larger, so people notice them faster and take action. However, they are colored to match the color of their food base, which reduces the likelihood of their early detection. Infection with these insects occurs quickly. This is due to their ability to fly. If previous pests move through the soil, then these can fly to new plants.
- 4. Mealybugs are members of the same family as the scale insects. These worms are not worms at all. In size and lifestyle, they are more like aphids. A person who is not versed in the biology of invertebrates usually does not see the difference between aphids and a scale insect. However, there are some indirect signs. The accumulation of these small white insects creates an effect white bloomas if the plant was sprinkled with flour.
- 5. Whiteflies are small white butterflies. They are usually concentrated on the underside of the leaf, since the cover is less hard there.
These butterflies lay their eggs where they feed. Translucent larvae emerge from the eggs, bite into the leaves, move along their surface, leaving a layer of sticky sweet plaque. If the concentration of larvae is high, and the leaves are not processed, then the bloom turns from green to black. This is due to the fact that fungi begin to multiply in a sweet environment.
How to deal with the scourge?
If you find white dots, brown shields, cobwebs, sticky bloom on the plant, then you don't need to look for the culprits, because the control measures are the same. They boil down to the following actions:
- The detected pests can be removed. Wash the plant with solution laundry soap (72%). You can use special green soap.
In a soapy state, the plant can remain no longer than 24 hours. After that, the soap deposit must be washed off, since the soap prevents gas exchange between the plant and the atmosphere.
Repeat the procedure after 3 days.
- In some cases, soap treatments do not help. Then you have to turn to special drugs. Fitoverm belongs to such means. According to the instructions, it is used to treat indoor plants if they are affected by aphids, ticks and thrips.
It is easy to use Fitoferm. It is necessary to dissolve the contents of the ampoule in water. Attention should be paid to the toxicity of the drug to humans, therefore, the treatment must be carried out with all precautions and outside the living quarters, since there will be an unpleasant odor.
The entire procedure must be repeated 7 days after the first treatment. This is due to the fact that most pests live in the soil, and this drug does not damage them, so the next generation appears.
In about 30 days, you will understand whether Fitoverm helped or not. If not, then it's time to resort to more radical actions.
- The drug "Doctor" (thiamethoxam) in the form of briquettes. Distinctive feature this tool is the destruction of pests in the soil. For this, briquettes are introduced into the soil. There they gradually dissolve, killing the larvae and adults - aphids, worms, scale insects, thrips, whiteflies.
- The entire series of "Commander" preparations has universal properties. They can be sprayed on crops growing in the open field, in pots on the windowsill. These are water-soluble crystals that are effective against aphids, whiteflies, thrips. The concentration of the solution must be selected for specific conditions in accordance with the instructions.
- Some people put a pot with an affected flower in a plastic bag and spray it inside with dichlorvos, then the bag is tightly closed for several hours.
This method can give its results, but dichlorvos is dangerous for people and can burn the plant, it acts for a short time, killing only active insects and ticks. The larvae remaining in the soil do not die.
There are many means and methods of plant pest control. The main thing is prevention. Be careful with your soil selection.
There are several diseases that affect different parts of the flower:
Differences from pest damage
Possible consequences
The consequences of diseases for the Chinese rose directly depend on what disease struck and at what stage it was affected. If the disease was detected on time, then the plant can still be saved by taking urgent measures... The main consequences of diseases remain:
- loss of decorativeness;
- stunting;
- death.
When is resuscitation possible and when not?
Resuscitation for a plant is an emergency measure that will save the flower from death. It makes sense to hold such events if the state of the rose is not neglected. Then stressful situation will allow him to activate the processes of growth and development. If the disease is started, then it is useless to carry out resuscitation measures.
Instructions on what to do at home
If a Chinese rose dries up, then the first thing to do is to normalize its watering. From spring to autumn, the flower needs moisture. Use settled water for irrigation room temperature.
The next reason for the plant to dry out is mites.... To combat them, you can try these drugs:
These products are toxic, so be sure to open a window, wear gloves and a respirator before using them.
The processing looks like this:
- First, water the flower thoroughly, and treat the stems and leaves with soapy water.
- Now you can proceed to spraying, and use several drugs in turn.
- Re-processing should be carried out in 7-10 days.
As for folk remedies, they are effective only at an early stage of infection. Popular recipes:
- Onion infusion... For 20 g of husk, 1 liter of water. Insist 5 days, spray the bush with infusion, wipe the leaves and branches.
- Infusion of garlic... Pour 2 large and chopped heads of garlic, pour 1 liter of water and leave for 5 days. Before use, dilute the infusion with water in equal proportions and spray the bush.
Hibiscus withers
If the plant begins to wither, then it can be very difficult to cure it. But you can try if you use the following recommendations:
- Remove all dried parts of the plant, slightly touching its healthy parts.
- Treat the rose with antifungal drugs: Fundazol, Topsin, Dezavid. You can use a folk remedy - Trichopolum solution (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).
- For additional stimulation of the rose, carry out treatment with such preparations: Epin, Zircon, Domotsvet.
IMPORTANT: If at the initial stage it was not possible to cure the hibiscus, and it still withers, then you will have to get rid of it.
Twisting of azalea leaves occurs as a result of whitefly activity... To combat it, drugs are used:
When handling preparations, use gloves and ventilate the room well!
Foliage falls
- Shield... The leaves are mechanically cleaned with a soapy lip. Next, process 0.155 Actellik solution (1-2 ml per 1 liter of water).
- Aphid... To combat it, spraying with Dirris, Fitoverm, Decis, Aktellik is used. If the lesion is strong, then repeat the treatment after 10 days.
Turns yellow
To prevent the appearance of yellowness on the leaves or get rid of it, the following recommendations will be required:
- Watering should be moderate, avoid the presence of standing water.
- No draft.
- Timely subcortex.
- Lack of direct sunlight.
- Leaf processing special means for prevention.
TIP: In case of a viral infection, it is pointless to carry out treatment, the diseased flower should be immediately removed so that other plants do not become infected.
Does not bloom
If hibiscus does not bloom in any way, it needs to be stimulated.:
- To stimulate flowering, it is necessary to cut off old branches in a timely manner.
- Change the old soil to a new one.
- Place the plant in a sunny place.
- Do not forget to apply fertilizers to stimulate new shoots and buds. But to reduce nitrogen-containing compositions.
Watch a video about the reasons for the lack of flowering of hibiscus and how to fix it:
If the Chinese rose is on the verge of death, then urgent resuscitation is needed. It includes the following procedure:
When high humidity and good lighting will awaken dormant buds and the root system will begin to develop. Zircon should be treated every day, as it restores turgor.
Prevention
To prevent the development of a second disease, it is necessary to take following measures prevention:
- Temperature indicators should not go beyond the normal range - 18-22 degrees Celsius. Drying out and waterlogging are unacceptable.
- Timely pest control. They lead to leaf deformation and the development of diseases. For processing, use Peretrum, Aktofit.
- It is best to use mineral complex fertilizers to apply nutrient formulations regularly.
- The air in the room should be moderately humid, but not dry.
Care
- Temperature... The Chinese rose is a heat-loving plant. In spring and summer, the temperature will be 25 degrees Celsius, and in winter - 15-20 degrees. If the temperature is below 10 degrees in winter, the leaves will fall off. In the summertime, put the flower on the balcony, protecting it from rain and wind.
- Lighting... Hibiscus is a light-loving culture. For him, diffused light is important. If in the summer direct sunlight falls on the flower, then this is fraught with the development of a burn. Grow the plant on east or west windows.
- Watering... In spring and summer, the Chinese rose needs abundant watering. Use separated water and room temperature. Avoid waterlogging. In winter, watering is moderate. Wait until the soil is completely dry before the next irrigation. It is imperative to provide for high-quality drainage.
- Air humidity... In summer, hibiscus needs high humidity. It is useful for him to carry out frequent spraying. Only the water should not fall on the flowers, otherwise they may fall off. Less moisture is required in winter. But if there is central heating, then spraying should be carried out every other day.
- Top dressing... From spring until autumn, apply complex nutrient compositions intended for flowering indoor plants. Do this every 2 weeks. Beginning in August, reduce nitrogenous fertilizing.
- Pruning... Prune the Chinese rose tightly every spring. This will allow the bush to acquire a compact shape with a large number of buds. If the plant begins to stretch strongly, then cut it off during the growth period. By pruning, the flower can take the form of a shrub or tree.
Conclusion
The Chinese rose, like other decorative crops, is subject to certain diseases. The main task of the grower is to detect the problem in time, understand the reason for its development and move on to effective treatment at home. Only quick and well-coordinated actions will help save both the flower itself and its decorative appearance.
Sticky drops
Sometimes, hibiscus can secrete drops on its own and this is not a pathology, but the localization of these secretions should be at the junction of the petiole with the leaf.
In other cases, the appearance of a sticky plaque indicates that the plant has been damaged by pests: aphids or scabbards. And if aphids can be seen with the naked eye, then the scabbard gives out its presence only with sticky secretions.
To help the flower, you need to give it a shower. In this case, the soil must be covered with a waterproof film so that washed off pests do not get into it. Then the hibiscus must be dried and treated with an insecticidal preparation, according to the instructions.
Stains
The appearance of small, yellow, watery spots indicates the defeat of the hibiscus by bacterial spotting. The shape of the spots is irregularly angular, and along their edge there is a light green or yellow border. Bacteria cause this ailment and treatment should be carried out with the use of antifungal drugs.
Also, manifestations of bacterial lesions can be so-called bacterial burns. The spots in these cases are quite extensive, shapeless, black. Treatment is also carried out with antifungal drugs; untimely assistance to the hibiscus will lead to its death.
The leaf plates have fallen
The reason for this symptom may be:
- Insufficient, or, on the contrary, excessive watering.
- Too high or low temperature air.
- Lack of lighting.
- Drafts.
The improvement of hibiscus, if the ailment arose due to the above reasons, is to adjust the conditions of detention.
Also hibiscus can shed leaves due to spider mite damage, or due to excess content nutrients in the ground. In the first case, insecticide treatment will be required, in the second it is necessary to adjust the composition of the soil.
White bloom
The plant is affected by mealybug or powdery mildew:
- In the first case, it is a pest.
- In the second, a fungal disease.
The waste products of the mealybug visually look like lumps of cotton wool on the leaves and stems, treatment consists in washing the plant and treating it with insecticidal preparations.
Antifungal drugs are used to treat powdery mildew, which creates a visual effect of flour sprinkling the leaves.
Black spots
A disease with this symptom is called dropsy. Black dots appear from a combination of waterlogging and cold. This defect can be corrected by restoring conditions acceptable for hibiscus.
Leaf plates drooped
If the plant has dropped leaves, it either lacks moisture, or it is very waterlogged. Sometimes this symptom can appear at a high temperature. Adjustment of conditions of detention will help to save hibiscus from malaise.
Chlorosis
This is a disease in which the process of chlorophyll formation is disrupted in a plant and the activity of photosynthesis decreases. The main symptoms of the disease are yellowing and leaf fall.
Chlorosis can be of two types - infectious and non-infectious. The most common non-infectious form. The cause of the occurrence lies in the wrong composition of the soil - excessive or insufficient quantity nitrogen, potassium, iron and magnesium.
The symptoms of the disease are as follows:
- with a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow and fall;
- potassium deficiency causes thinning of branches, lack of flowering or pale color of flowers;
- a lack of magnesium or nitrogen appears as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Infectious chlorosis is caused by fungal microorganisms and viruses. Symptoms accompanying the disease:
- yellowing and falling leaves;
- general weakness of the plant;
- lack of flowering.
How to treat chlorosis? For the treatment of non-infectious chlorosis, it is necessary to bring the composition of the soil to an optimal state for hibiscus.
Infectious chlorosis is best prevented by preventing flower contact with diseased plants.
As for the treatment, the best solution would be to transplant the pre-washed plant into a new, disinfected container with fresh soil. Also special drugs designed to treat infections will be effective.
Twisting
It is observed when hibiscus is affected by fungi of the genus Verticillus, or Fusarium. After the leaves curl up, they die off and only the top remains of the plant. After the defeat of all leaves, rapid drying of the trunk and death of the flower follow. For treatment, you must use antifungal drugs.
The timely noticed ailment of the pet, hibiscus, will help prevent critical conditions and prevent bitter disappointment from the death of the flower.
One of the reasons why indoor plant leaves begin to curl - these are pests. For example, a flower affected by a whitefly (whiteflies are one of the most dangerous pests) has yellow leaves covered with sticky drops over their entire surface. In addition to whitefly, the plant is threatened by other hibiscus pests: aphids, gall midges and spider mites.
Spider mite
Aphids are another attack familiar to people who are fond of floriculture. Aphids are usually attracted to the fleshy shoots of the plant, so they quickly attack it and drink juices from it. One of characteristic features the appearance of this pest is that the plant rolls the leaves, and subsequently sticky droplets quickly appear on the leaves.
The following methods are used to combat aphids: first, they should be removed from the leaf and stem with a cotton pad, and then treated with soapy water or special preparations (Aktara, Iskra).
Gallica
Another reason the leaf blade twists and falls off is the gall midge, which is a threat to both the leaves and the root system of the plant. Usually, the eggs of the pest can be found in the buds of the plant - it is there that worms hatch from the eggs, gnaw the buds, and then fall into the soil, closer to the roots of the plant.
Diseases and their causes
In addition to insect infestations, your flowers can be exposed to diseases. Diseases of hibiscus, if left to chance, can cause the death of the plant. Rotten roots, leaves starting to dry out are all clear signs that the hibiscus needs help. It's not about different types rot, when the plant has rotted or its roots have dried up, and about diseases that affect the state of the foliage of the flower. So let's look at the main leaf diseases and their treatments.
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is nothing more than the loss of color by the leaves. The leaves affected by the disease rapidly lose color and become very pale, even slightly yellowish. The disease is most dangerous in that the leaves can not only lose their color, but over time they can begin to fall off. Thus, if you do not take any measures, your hibiscus may soon be completely naked.
Sunburn
Another attack that poses a significant danger, but in essence is not a disease, is a sunburn. Everything is simple here: sunburn occurs as a result of a violation of conditions of detention. Hibiscus, like the vast majority of plants, cannot stand direct sunlight. Therefore, if you forget about it and place him in a place where he will be under their direct influence, be prepared to accept the consequences in the form sunburn.
Also, this attack can appear if you kept your plant in the shade for a long time, and then sharply put it in a bright place. In this case, it is not even necessary that direct sunlight falls on it - a simple change of scenery will be enough. In addition, sunburn can occur even if the leaf seems to stick to the glass.
A sunburn looks like a small reddish or yellowish dry spot on the surface of the leaf plate. It is better to take measures to save hibiscus immediately, because the longer you delay, the more rehabilitation the flower will then need.
Treatment and prevention
In order to eliminate the problems, it will be necessary to cure the plant, saving it either from the invasion of insects or from diseases. If in the case of insects, it will be enough to apply any effective insecticide or acaricide (and for those who like to use folk remedies - soap solution), then with diseases you need to act a little differently.
In case of chlorosis, it is necessary to treat the hibiscus with iron chelate and apply the necessary fertilizers (since the disease itself is often caused by a lack of nutrients). Except for improving the living conditions, you will not help the plant.
In order to eliminate the effects of sunburn, you need to remove all damaged hibiscus leaves, as well as optimize the conditions of detention - for example, put in a darker place.
