Rip sawing fence.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

For installation on a table, in general, any circular is suitable, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast may crack.

There is another popular way to attach the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - to attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not correct enough in terms of the accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not apply it.

Another important parameter of the manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc sawn through to the top of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (160mm Bosh wood disc). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular itself. Conveniently, the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disc is tilted imperceptibly. And all the cuts will be chamfered. It is imperative to check with an instrumental square that the disc is at 90 degrees, relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to your native site. If the disc is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

I placed a saw socket inside the table, which will now be turned on by the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and can be cut. (made in one evening and one morning).

Sawing without equipment is of course possible using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. Pressing the rail on the slide, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut a slat like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thickness.

Skids solve only part of the problem. For rip sawing, you also need a side fence.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Grips the edges with a death grip.

A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of the furniture board.

I already had time to work with this table, sawed and slats, furniture board, plywood. It became much easier to carry out all these work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will redo the side fence for rip sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the blade
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I will make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now, when I saw, the disc throws wood dust in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

This article covers a few simple but useful jigs that a craftsman made for his hand-held circular saw. At the end of the publication, for clarity, there is a video tutorial by the author of the channel "Do-it-yourself carpentry".

This Chinese shop has a lot of space for carpenters. Browser plugin to save money in it: 7% -15% from purchases.

Used saw Boch GKS 165 CE. This is, first of all, a traditional standard parallel stop, which is included in the set of almost any hand-held circular saw. The rest of the fixtures are various guides. This is a device for perpendicular cross-cutting and banding of workpieces. This is a guide bar for cutting sheet material. Two bars - probably the most useful auxiliary devices at work - setting bars that allow you to accurately place any guides, such as a straight edge rail, a painting rule, any straight pipe or profile, or a factory edge of any sheet material. Last but not least, the adjustable guide for angle sawing.
I made all these devices with my own hands a long time ago, when I learned the basics of carpentry and joinery with the help of a hand-held circular saw and an electric plane during suburban construction. And they still serve faithfully.

Especially useful for handling bulky, long material. That is, with long boards and large sheets that are inconvenient to process on a circular machine or miter saw. In the first part about the first three devices, as the most popular. The second part will be devoted to the other two.

So, the simplest and most common device for a hand circular saw is a standard stop designed for longitudinal cutting of workpieces to a given width. But this stop has one drawback - for safety reasons, it is designed so as not to interfere with the operation of the saw guard. As a result, the stop does not allow cutting with a width less than a certain predetermined value. It is different in different models of circular saws. For a saw, this is 22 mm. That is, with the help of this stop it will not be possible to cut slats with a thickness of less than 22 mm. Somehow it was necessary to quickly saw a large number of slats, 10-15 mm thick, for spacers between boards in a stack. Of the tools, only a circular saw was available. It turned out that it was impossible to do this with the help of a standard stop. Therefore, he took the first block with parallel edges that came to hand and temporarily attached it to the stop with self-tapping screws. Since then I have enjoyed such emphasis!

With the help of a workpiece, you can saw off strips of any width, up to a few millimeters. When working with such a modernized stop, especially when cutting less than 15 millimeters, increased safety measures should be observed. With small sawing widths, the guard rests on the block and does not cover the rotating blade. Therefore, when handling the saw, in order not to get injured, you need to be extremely careful and attentive.
Using the device is simple: set the stop to the required kerf width, secure the workpiece, press the bar firmly against the edge of the board and guide the saw along the workpiece. Since such an emphasis can be installed almost close to the disc, replacing the pad with a longer one, about 40-50 cm, the saw can be used as an impromptu jointer for quickly leveling the edge of the edged board. The result is quite acceptable!

The next device is a guide for making perpendicular, cross cuts.

It consists of a guide rail itself and a stop perpendicular to it. The cutting line is defined by the edge. The author of the idea has been using it for about 4-5 years, so the edge is well developed, soon it will be necessary to make a new one. The device is made for a specific saw blade, I wrote the parameters of my blade for memory. On the other hand, a guide is made for a hand router, with a 12 mm cutter, but it is rarely used.
He made this device to perform a specific job, namely, to make carved columns for the terrace of his house. Many shallow perpendicular cuts had to be made on each side of the timber.
Then from 5 minutes. A continuation in the second part.

How to make a homemade circular table with your own hands according to the drawings

The hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the main advantages of a circular saw is that maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood need to be cut. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a circular saw table with your own hands.

Table device

small tabletop stand for circular

The design of a circular saw table is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench made of wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are also the most difficult and require the skills of a welder. Therefore, more often the coasters are made from sawn timber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disc protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is moved along the table top and sawn with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “eats up” a part of the working surface of the disc, the cutting depth will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is advisable to select a circular with a maximum disc diameter, and the table top is thin but rigid.

If the saw has not been purchased yet, select models with a high power (from 1200 W). They will cope with cutting large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for fastening: the molded base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

fixing the circular saw under the tabletop

To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember the carpentry skills, be patient and have a small amount of materials:

• film faced plywood 15 - 20 mm;
• timber 50 x 50;
• board;
• switch;
• external socket;
• a piece of electrical cable;
• PVA glue;
• varnish for wood (if plywood is not laminated);
• self-tapping screws.

The size of the countertop will depend on the size of the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to saw long sections. If the part fits entirely on the work surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a tabletop design with an approximate size of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table making process

1. Cut a tabletop of the required size from a sheet of laminated plywood. The markings are drawn on the bottom plane using a metal ruler and pencil. We cut out the plywood with an electric jigsaw, we mill the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, we clean the surface of the table with sandpaper.
2. We turn it over and from the bottom we make markings for attaching a manual circular. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and install it with the sole in the required place. We make marks on the table top and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. We drill holes for the bolts. They will twist from the top, through the countertop and from the bottom to be held in place by nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface, we countersink the holes, and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
3. If you plan to cut material at different angles, the cut for the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. For a straight cut, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for the fasteners, attach the saw, correct the marks, and only then cut.
4. Draw the location of the stiffeners with a pencil. They are made from a board and installed from the bottom 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the table top. We will attach the table legs to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, PVA is additionally glued. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the tabletop, the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
5. The legs of the table are made of a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. The legs, slightly diverging downward, will give greater stability. They are fixed on large bolts, screwed on the outside, and fastened with nuts from the inside. Lumber screeds will additionally strengthen the frame.
6. To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached from below, into which M14 bolts are screwed.
7. Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disc into the prepared slot.
8. We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table, pass the electrical wire from it and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outside of the stiffener). The outlet will be powered from the switch. From it we stretch the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. With the help of a construction screed, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in the recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need a # 30 square aluminum tube and two screws with wing nuts.

1. Saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the tabletop, cut holes for screws 3 cm from the edge.
2. Cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The construction is ready.
3. For cutting across the table, we make a sled from plywood. We align them relative to the edges of the table, press and move them along the toothed circle. In the place where the circle passes in the slide, we saw through a groove. Small parts can be stacked directly inside the sled and sawed off.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust is scattered from above, so it is a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust collector.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. Cut out the pusher from a piece of board or furniture board.

Design additions

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife that can be removed. Put on a protection for the disk, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly into the joiner.

Some craftsmen, assembling the table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you are not planning to cut at an angle, you can also remove all the tools for adjusting the blade tilt. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, thus saving several millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an inner cover, it is easier to remove the blade, the saw is less clogged with chips when working with damp boards. Disassembly takes extra time, but the engine resource is saved, overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary circular saw table, the second about a small portable structure:

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DIY hand-held circular saw attachments.

These simple and very useful hand-held circular saw attachments are -

• parallel stop,
• device for perpendicular cross-cutting and trimming of boards,
• guide rail for cutting sheet material,
• setting blocks for precise positioning of any guide and adjustable guide for angled sawing

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular saw and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and become a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

Second part of the video.

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1. Zero clearance

If the circular saw blade leaves torn fibers or chips at the edges of the cut, try making next addition... Cut a piece of hardboard
6 mm thick across the width of the circular saw base.
Retract the disc, lift the protective cover and use double-sided tape to glue the cut-out piece to the base. Turn on the saw and slowly immerse the blade in hardboard for a zero-play cut. Then cut at a slight feed on the basis received.

Note: Be especially careful as the saw blade is open!

2. Place the saw on the line for accurate cutting.

Take a few minutes to making this template in the workshop, and the required cuts will be available anywhere. The fixture shown in the picture was designed for 150mm wide boards, but it is easy to adjust the structure to any required size or angle.

Cut the fixture with a slight allowance, then press the circular saw against the stop and saw off the edge of the base to the final length.
The sawn-off edge of the fixture defines the line along which a circular saw should make a cut.
Place a mark on the board in the place where you want to cut it off, press the lower stop of the fixture against the edge of the board and align the edge of the base with the cut mark. By passing the saw through the device, it is possible to cut the boards with amazing accuracy.

3. Finding a simple guide

How to make a straight cut with a portable circular saw? Of course, you can buy an expensive guide from the store, or make one yourself in the workshop if you need to cut a lot of sheets. But there is an easier solution: to make it from the scraps that are lying around in the corner of the workshop.
For the production of the guide, select the factory edge of a strip of plywood or hard fiberboard with a width of 250-300 mm. Fasten the strip along the cutting line so that saw base moved along a flat edge. If you are using a foam backing to protect the saw blade, make cutouts for the jaws of the clamps.

4. Homemade circular saw cut-off device

Clean and even cross cuts it can be difficult to make a portable circular saw. It is almost impossible to guide the tool perfectly straight, and the material will usually fly off, leaving unsightly chips and split edges in its wake.
I suggest doing it yourself inexpensive fixture for cross cuts from several pieces of wood and an aluminum corner. Assemble the base, for which to the upper side of a piece of chipboard or plywood measuring 18 × 300 × 1220 mm, glue and tighten with screws a pair of parallel strips with dimensions of 25 × 50 mm.
Using countersunk screws, attach the aluminum corners to the planks parallel at a distance equal to the width of the circular saw base at an angle of 90 °. Adjust the saw so that it cuts through the planks and makes shallow cut at the base.
Fix the device with clamps on the workbench, insert the workpiece under aluminum guides and make a cut. If the saw does not slide well on the rails, a thin layer of paraffin or silicone spray will help you move it more smoothly.

5. Template for installing the guide

When to make long cuts with your portable circular saw, you have to spend a lot of time and take many measurements to set the straight guideline in relation to the scribe line exactly according to the width of the saw blade.
To simplify this procedure cut the template made of fiberboard (hardboard), equal in width to the distance from the edge of the base of the saw to the inner edge of the saw blade. Then cut the template to the length of the saw blade. To use the template, align its edge with the kerf mark on the workpiece, and attach a straight guide to the other side and secure it with a clamp.
Repeat this procedure at the second kerf mark on the other side of the workpiece to be sawn. Similar templates can be made for jigsaw or milling cutter.

When you have your own home or summer cottage, then a static circular saw will be an excellent assistant for you. With its help, you can quickly and efficiently carry out complex work on cutting various products. Such a tool can be purchased if the budget allows. Or you can create it yourself. It is also important to have the necessary tools for it.

A circular saw. Concept

A circular saw is a special one that allows you to quickly and evenly saw wood products, plywood, laminate and various boards.

There are household and professional models. The former can function with pauses. Their engine needs 15-20 minutes breaks. They cannot withstand significant loads.

The latter have more powerful engines. They can work intensively for a very long time. Therefore, they are usually used in production.

For use in a personal household, household modifications are used. And keeping professional versions is unprofitable.

The level of work and their types are determined by the bed of this tool.

About the elements of the bed

The attachments are different. The bed is the main one. If the saw power is insignificant (no more than 1.2 kW), it is easy to build such a bed yourself. Its length is influenced by the length of the material being cut.

An electric drill "Bosch" is suitable for the drive, its parameter is 0.85 kW. It is mounted under the slab with a special bracket.

Precision and evenness of the cut is best when the workpiece rests entirely on the table surface. And if the table is too large, it will fill the entire working area. The average is needed here. The height is adjusted according to your height to make it easier to work.

Materials and tools

For the table, buy bakelite plywood with a minimum density of 5 cm.

In addition to it, you will need:

1. Board 5 x 10 cm.
2. Bars 5 x 5 cm.
3. Clamps.
4. A set of self-tapping screws.
5. Adhesives and varnishes.
6. Manual circular.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Milling cutter of the manual type.
9. Drill.

Making a table

When you need to assemble fixtures, the first step is to create a bed. It consists of a base and a table top.

The design of the second element is influenced by the structure of the fastening of the working disk.

The process of creating a key attachment for a circular saw goes through several stages. They are outlined below:

Creating the legs

The assembly of a complete circular saw attachment is not limited to these steps.

For the legs, you need a board 5 x 10 cm.Their height is 1-1.2 m.

The board is cut along the longitudinal vector. In this case, a slight angle is observed on one side.

The legs are fitted to the table top. During installation, they should be slightly open.

They are attached outside the stiffeners. The fastening method is bolted. To increase their stability, you will need screeds. They need a block of 5 x 5 cm.

Fits into the previously created groove from the lower zone of the worktop. The sole is fixed with bolts. The disc is placed in the slot.

The table is covered with 3-4 layers of varnish. This is a measure against moisture.

Switching on and off

The assembly of the main attachment for the circular saw is almost complete. It remains to adjust the launch and shutdown of the tool. The simplest solution here is as follows - the start key is pulled together with a wire, and the saw is turned off with a power cord.

A more complex method is to bypass this key. And the control buttons are displayed on the outer plane of the front stiffener.

The miter saw attachment is especially useful when quality cross cuts are needed.

Such a device can be made independently using the proposed technology:

1. The base is being assembled. Two parallel strips of 2.5 x 5 cm are glued to the upper area of ​​plywood with parameters 1.8 x 30 x 122 cm. They are attracted by screws.
2. Angles are attached to them (their material is aluminum). Fastening method - countersunk head screws. The angle of the fastener is 90 degrees. The fastening takes place in parallel at a distance identical to the width of the saw base.
3. The tool is adjusted to cut the planks to a shallow depth at the base.
4. The device is fixed with clamps. A workpiece is placed under the corners. The cut is made.

If the saw does not go well, this area can be smeared with paraffin, but with a thin layer.

Long cuts question

Creating a hand-held circular saw attachment that will help make long cuts is relevant for many DIYers. It simplifies work remarkably.

It's easy to do. Fiberboard is taken. A sample is cut from this material. It is identical to the distance from the outer edge of the base of the tool to the outer edge of the disc from the inside.

When cutting, rely on the length of the tool base.

The edge of the sample is aligned with the designation of the cut on the workpiece. A straight piece is applied to the second side. This is a guide. It is fixed with a clamp.

On the second marking, this operation is duplicated, but on the opposite side of the blank.

To create a template, it is optimal to use a router or jigsaw.

If chips are chipped from the disc in the work, you cannot do without the following device for a hand-held circular saw, assembled with your own hands.

Technology:

1. An element of hardboard is cut out. Its density is 6 mm. When cutting, you need to focus on the width of the tool base.
2. The disc is retracted. The protective casing rises. The result of item 1 is attached to the base with double-sided tape. After that, the saw starts. The disc fits smoothly into the hardboard. It turns out zero clearance in work.

Sawing should be done with negligible impact on the created base.

Tenoning device

The tenon attachment for the circular saw increases the efficiency and accuracy of the tenon and groove production. They are involved in the assembly of various joinery products: furniture, doors, frames, frames, etc.

Thanks to this device:

1. The workpieces are positioned without distortions.
2. The operations are repeated meticulously.
3. The final result is of high quality.

Such a device can be purchased or made by your own efforts. Experts recommend the first option. This is a complete guarantee of an excellent result.

The following models are often bought: Felisatti FTJ and Festool VS 600 GE.

This is a reliable and proven technique.

The sharpening question

The circular saw should be sharpened when these symptoms appear:

1. It becomes harder to work with her.
2. It leaves black marks on the material.
3. A nasty smell and smoke is produced.

Ideally, it should be sharpened on a professional machine. If not, you will need a circular saw sharpener.

Required set for work:

1. Vise.
2. File with a flat functional side.
3. Bar.

Work with gloves.

Sharpening stages:

1. Hard disk fixation. It is removed from the saw and secured in a vice. In this case, wooden dies are used. You can leave it in the saw, but stick a block between its teeth. The bar rests against some surface.
2. The initial tooth is marked.
3. The back of the tooth is processed with a file. They need to swipe it several times. The effort is small. Each tooth is sharpened in turn. At the same time, the movements are uniform, the number of filing is the same.
4. The front parts of the teeth are processed. The principle is the same.

The points of the teeth should be perpendicular to the surface of the disc.

All teeth are then inspected for defects. Edges should not shine. If so, they are smoothly sharpened with a file.

After that, the disk is verified in action. It fits in the saw. It turns on. A test block is used. If the saw is light, even and quiet, then the sharpening is of high quality.

Otherwise, check the height of the teeth. To align them, you need to bring the marker to the working edge. Then the disc must go through the entire revolution in the other direction from the rotation. A mark remains on all teeth. You can align their height along it. The tallest teeth are filed neatly.

Conclusion

A circular saw is a very useful tool on the farm. But it becomes even more effective if it is provided with the necessary devices.

A hand-held circular saw, or circular saw as it is commonly called, is a versatile and valuable tool in a craftsman's arsenal. It is indispensable for carpentry and joinery work. The main task is to cut sheet material, as well as cross and longitudinal cuts of sawn timber. The design of the saw allows you to get an accurate cutting line.

The circular saw is used for cutting sheet material, as well as cross and longitudinal cuts in wood.

To improve accuracy and facilitate the performance of work, various accessories and equipment are produced.

For all their advantages, they have a fairly high cost, which is not affordable for everyone. And sometimes they are difficult to buy and deliver to the right address, especially in areas remote from major cities. Therefore, a logical way out of this situation is to make the necessary device for the circular with your own hands.

Accessories for working with a circular saw can be very diverse: from primitive disposable stops to very complex and versatile devices. And if for the manufacture of the simplest devices it is enough just to pick up even pieces of thick plywood or boards of the required size, then more complex equipment will already be made with the help of tools.

Materials and tools

The material from which the circular saw attachments are prepared can be selected from scraps of thick (at least 10 mm) plywood or hard wood (for example, birch) at hand.

Of the tools you will need:

• carpentry square for measuring and marking workpieces;
• electric jigsaw or hand-held circular saw (for cutting blanks);
• drill (drilling mounting holes for fasteners);
• screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits for installing fasteners.

The manufacturing process for circular saw attachments consists of several stages:

• a sketch is being developed and detailing is being thought out;
• material is selected;
• marking and cutting of material is carried out;
• assembly and, if necessary, adjustment of devices.

Back to the table of contents

Circular saw guide

The simplest device is a guide bar. A straight, straight cut can be easily obtained. For manufacturing, you need an even straight bar of the required length. He, with the help of self-tapping screws (if applicable) or clamps, is attached to the material being processed. The fastening must be carried out at such a distance from the required cutting line so that the position of the saw blade coincides with the markings when the side sole of the circular saw rests on the block. For a single cut, this method is suitable, however, when repeating the same type of operations, the procedure for marking and installing the bar will need to be repeated anew each time.

The guide bar can be improved by fixing it on a sheet of strong plywood with a thickness of 6-8 mm. One edge of the sheet during operation will be aligned with the cutting line. At a distance equal to the distance between the saw blade and the edge of the circular saw sole (working distance), a guide block is attached to the plywood with self-tapping screws. When working, it will only be necessary to combine the working edge of the plywood sheet with the cutting line and fix the opposite edge with clamps.

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Breakout protection: device nuances

The simplest devices can also include a bar fixed at the point where the saw blade exits the workpiece. This will avoid such unpleasant effects as chips and tears. And if these defects will not play a role on the boards being cut, which will be used to make the frame of the house or formwork, then the sawing should be smooth and clean during the carpentry work.

For the manufacture of more complex universal devices, you will already need tools and a certain amount of materials. The time spent on their manufacture will subsequently more than pay off with the ease of work, accuracy and ultimately saving the same time.

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Additional accessories

1. Blank template. If you need to make parts of the same type, you can use one of them as a guide template. For this, the workpiece is cut to the required length and a stop rail is fixed to one end of it. The width of the staff must match the working distance. When working with this device, the stop rail must fit snugly against the end of the workpiece. This way you can get a large number of parts of exactly the same length without spending time marking the cutting line.
2. Cut-off square. For permanent use, you can make a cut-off square. It consists of two massive wooden or plywood slats, fastened with self-tapping screws overlapping in the shape of the letter "T". The lengths of the protruding ends of the “T” bar are leveled to match the working distance of the circular saw. Placing the aligned end of the crossbar against the scribe line will produce an accurate perpendicular cut.
3. Edge stop. The standard set of the circular saw includes an angle (edge) stop. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. By using a custom-made edge stop, a cleaner, more precise cut can be achieved with a wider and longer base.

To make an edge stop, a stop strip and a base for a circular saw are cut out of 15 mm plywood. The keyways are selected in the base and the stop rail using a hand router. The dowels themselves are made from scraps of hard wood or from the same plywood and are attached to the grooves of the thrust strip. To strengthen the stop at an angle of 90 °, another rail of sufficient width is fixed to the stop rail, which will rest on the workpiece. Adjustment of the cutting distance from the edge of the workpiece is carried out by moving the stop rail along the guides, followed by fixation with a locking screw.

To install the screw, a through groove is cut in the base. It is recommended to use two screws to increase the cutting accuracy and increase the safety of work. A hole is made in the base plate for the saw blade and the attachment system for the circular saw is installed. The design of the fastening system can be very diverse and will depend on the specific brand of saw. A common point for all options should be a reliable fixation of the circular and the possibility of its dismantling from the device after the end of work. For the convenience of setting the required width of the cut of the material, a measuring tape is fixed on the front surface of the base of the device.

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Tool for cutting squared beams

For cutting a large number of identical beams, it makes sense to make a device called a saddle. It consists of three parts connected in the form of the letter "P" (back and two sidewalls). The width of the backrest must match the width of the bar to be sawn. The widths of the sidewalls are selected so that they can provide sufficient support for the edge of the circular saw blade until the saw blade enters the workpiece material. Also, grooves or holes must be provided in the sidewalls for secure attachment of the device to the timber being processed using clamps.

Work with this device is carried out as follows:

• the cutting line is marked;
• at a distance equal to the working distance from the cutting line, the device is set and fixed;
• the cut of the bar is carried out by moving the circular along the lateral surface of the device.

The advantage of this device is that there is no need for readjustment when cutting a bar that is thicker than the overhang of the saw blade. For this, two saw passes are made from opposite sides.

The bar attachment design can be slightly improved by analogy with the modernized guide bar. To do this, bars are attached to one or both sidewalls at a distance equal to the working one, serving as an emphasis for the sole of the circular. This way, the edge of the side piece will be aligned with the desired cutting line.