Marmoleum as a floor covering that is not yet known. Marmoleum - the best floor covering Laying natural linoleum - why "StroyEkoMarket"

In one of the previous materials, we have already considered the features of such finishing material like marmoleum and clarified all its advantages and disadvantages. Today we would like to acquaint the reader with the installation procedure of the presented flooring and reveal the nuances of the work.

Preparation for work

As mentioned earlier, in terms of its visual characteristics, marmoleum is identical to ordinary linoleum, but unlike it, it is produced not only in the form of rolls, but also made in the form of tiles (like PVC) or panels with a lock (analogue of a laminate). In view of this, laying marmoleum with your own hands is somewhat different depending on the material used.

Foundation preparation process

Depends on the base material. So, if you plan to lay marmoleum on wooden surfaces, then first you should make sure that mechanical strength bases (the presence of damaged floorboards, cracks, drops is not allowed). And after that, make the final leveling of the floor by sheathing it with OSB panels or plywood sheets.

When it is planned to lay marmoleum on a concrete floor, then you should make sure that there are no potholes, cracks, chips and, if necessary, level the base with a cement-sand mortar or a self-leveling mixture.

In addition to the procedure for preparing the base at the initial stage, it is advisable to mark and cut the material. For this, the panels or tiles must be laid out in the place of the intended installation and the control points must be marked.

When performing these operations, it is necessary to take into account certain features:

Marmoleum belongs to the group of natural finishing materials, which is why it has the ability to change linear dimensions when temperatures change. That is, when laying it, it is necessary to provide for expansion gaps between the material and the wall (10 - 15 mm), which will subsequently be covered with a finishing plinth.

Mechanical processing of marmoleum (cutting) is associated with certain difficulties, therefore, during the work process, it is advisable to minimize the number of cuts as much as possible and place them in visually hidden places.

Marmoleum laying technology

Depending on the type of material used (rolls, tiles or panels), the method of laying the material also varies.

Rolled marmoleum is laid by analogy with linoleum, however, unlike a synthetic analogue, marmoleum is not allowed to roll up more than 1 time, and this can only be done with the front part up. A similar circumstance is associated with the fragility of the finish, in particular its end zones. That is, the material is simply rolled out in the room and trimmed around the perimeter, after which the matured marmoleum is pressed to the floor with the help of plinths and decorative sills.

Marmoleum in the form of tiles (50x50cm, 30x30cm) can be laid according to two methods: with and without pattern selection. Moreover, in the first case, the installation of the finishing material should start from the middle of the room, gradually moving to its edges. Whereas in the second version (for premises standard form) it is best to start laying from the wall, with the smallest dimensions.

The very same algorithm for carrying out work involves the following actions:

In the place where the first row is laid (in the area of the wall), a base rail - a lighthouse (10-15 mm thick) is set;
A specialized adhesive is applied (in the form of a snake) to the wrong side of the finishing material;
The tile is matched to the beacon rail and simultaneously pressed against the base base;
All tiles of the first row are laid in an identical way, after which the whole process is repeated again (until the work is completed);
After dry adhesive composition inter-seam voids can be filled with a special grout of the appropriate color shade.

Panel marmoleum is laid by analogy with a standard laminate. However, unlike the specified material, the joining of marmoleum panels is more complicated, due to its flexibility and fragility. Therefore, adjacent elements should be connected at a strictly defined angle, due to which the highest quality engagement of the floorboards is ensured.

It is best to use wooden templates with an oblique cut (the angle of inclination of which will allow positioning the marmoleum panels at the most optimal angle during the installation process).

Such equipment is placed under the free edge of the trim and is fixed in the groove of the previous row. Well, in order for the adjacent panel to close, the bar is simply removed and the marmoleum takes the desired position.

In order to ensure that the installation of natural finishing for the floor does not cause any particular difficulties, it is advisable to adhere to some recommendations in the process of performing work:

Tapping marmoleum (for high-quality joining) must be performed through special spacers and using rubber hammers.
For cutting marmoleum, it is best to use a hacksaw for metal or a jigsaw with an appropriate file (fine tooth, reverse direction).
Marmoleum should be purchased only in specialized shopping centers guaranteeing the originality of the product.
In order to ensure a good adhesion of the material from the base substrates, it is necessary to remove all dust and construction garbage with a vacuum cleaner.

Modern science is constantly inventing new artificial materials that are designed to reduce the cost of production and improve the characteristics of products. But despite this, more and more consumers prefer to use natural and environmentally friendly materials, which include marmoleum. Laying marmoleum is not a difficult and even interesting process, if you observe some of the features of the technology and take into account the quality of the material.

Features and types of marmoleum

Glue for natural linoleum purchase according to the manufacturer's recommendations, which are indicated in the material characteristics.

Before laying natural linoleum, you need to take into account the features of this material, such as:

Marmoleum in the form of a roll is rolled only in production. If the material is straightened, then it is no longer possible to twist it;
The coating is quite fragile, especially at the edges. This must be taken into account when laying and transporting;
The coverage has a large specific gravity and it is not recommended to use it for wall decoration;
When cutting material, only a sharp knife or metal file should be used. Cut edges tend to crumble and are best hidden under skirting boards.

For your information. It is better to buy natural linoleum in specialized stores or retail outlets manufacturers where the storage conditions of the coating are observed. Also, purchase glue for natural linoleum according to the manufacturer's recommendations, which are indicated in the characteristics of the material. When buying, pay attention to the cost of the material. The price of quality natural marmolium ranges from $ 19 to $ 25 per square meter.

Today on sale there are such types of marmoleum as:

Plain or colored tiles measuring 50x50 or 30x30 cm;
Panels standard sizes 90x30 cm;
Roll marmoleum, the most common roll width is 2 meters, since it is optimal for high-quality laying in household premises.

For the installation of the coating, it is better to invite competent specialists who have experience in working with the material. In order to control the process, you can watch a video of laying natural linoleum at the end of the article.

Mounting technology of marmoleum of various shapes

When laying tile or panel material, you can use the same tools that are used when installing the laminate. It is important to remember here that the material and especially its edges are fragile, so use a rubber or wooden hammer and work as carefully as possible.

Preparation of the base for marmoleum

If you have an old linoleum coating in good condition, you can leave it on and lay the marmoleum on top of the old one, while using ordinary construction glue or silicone. When mounted on a concrete base, a special glue for marmoleum is used. It is possible to lay tile or panel marmoleum without glue, since the modules have special locking joints. But if the laying area exceeds 20 square meters, then silicone can be used for additional styling. The substrate is not used during the installation of marmoleum and the coating is laid directly on the concrete base. If marmoleum is laid on a warm floor, then the substrate can be used to prevent contact of the coating with heating elements.

Important. The concrete base needs to be leveled, all protuberances or depressions must be removed, and cracks must be repaired with putty. Thoroughly clean the floor surface from dust and dirt, then cover with a deep penetration primer. At the time of installation, the temperature in the room should be at least +18 degrees and the relative humidity should not be more than 60%.

The technology of flooring natural linoleum in rolls implies its cutting into separate slabs, for this it is necessary to determine in advance the size of the slabs and their location in the room. When laying, an expansion gap of 15 to 30 mm must be left between the wall and the covering, since natural components expand when exposed to moisture and temperature. The gap is closed with a plinth.

Laying tile material

Laying marmoleum in tiles resembles assembling a mosaic, since each tile has a lock connection. Before installing the tiles, a special polypropylene substrate is laid on the base, which is sealed with double-sided tape. No glue is used for the tiles and the coating is floating. Each tile has a tongue-and-groove system. The first tile is laid at a distance of 1 cm from the wall, with the ridge directed towards the wall, and the groove outward. Each subsequent tile is inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one at a slight angle, then the module is lowered to the surface. Laying natural linoleum in the form of a tile is no different from installing a laminate.

For your information. In order to maintain the expansion gap, wooden stakes are inserted between the wall and the first tile, since there is a high probability of displacement during installation. The last row of tiles is laid on glue or double-sided tape while maintaining the same expansion gap. At the end of the installation of the marmoleum, the plinth is installed, with which the material is lightly pressed and the gap is closed.

Installation of marmoleum in the form of panels is no different from laying a tile covering. Experts call this installation "fast floor", because due to larger area panels, installation is faster.

Installation of rolled marmoleum

Roll material in small household premises is practically not used due to the complexity of installation and cutting. The coating is applied directly to the adhesive in spacious commercial premises with a concrete base.

Important. Base under roll material must be perfectly flat, free from dust and dirt. Self-leveling floor, chipboard, fiberboard or plywood can be used as a leveling material. We lay the marmoleum strictly in one direction, for this we focus on the arrows that should hit are printed on back side roll.

In general, the laying technology is no different from conventional linoleum flooring. The material should rest for at least two days, after which you can start gluing while maintaining the expansion gaps between the wall and the coating. When joining the seams, it must be remembered that marmoleum cannot be soldered, since it is impossible to melt the edges of the joint with temperature. For docking, a special cord made of low-melting polymer is used. In the absence of tools, experience and special knowledge, it is better to invite specialists for installation.

In this article, we briefly examined the methods of laying marmoleum of various shapes release. The main thing during installation roll cover do not use force, but simply direct the material and wait for it to gradually accept the desired shape... In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of laying marmoleum.

Strange, but the further science advances in terms of creating cheap artificial materials, the more often people tend to use natural materials in the decoration of their homes. Not everyone can afford the complete decoration of an apartment or house with natural building materials, but you still want to bring at least something into your home.

One of the available natural materials is marmoleum, which is also called "natural linoleum". Its cost is about 2 - 3 times higher than the cost of a quality one, but it is quite affordable for most people.

Do not think that marmoleum is a super-modern material. Its prototype was invented in the 16th century. And now the production process is simply improved, thanks to the capabilities of modern technology.

Marmoleum - what is it

To begin with, only natural ingredients are used in the manufacture of the material:

wood flour;
linseed oil;
resin of coniferous trees;
natural coloring pigments.

Thanks to the variety of natural dyes, manufacturers have managed to create a material of such a wide range of colors that the decoration of each interior can be made exclusive.

The color drawing of marmoleum is made for the entire thickness of the material, therefore, even with some wear, it retains its decorative effect.

The cost of the material is partly due to the length of the production process:

mixed of natural products linoleum mass should ripen within a week at a certain temperature;
after that, pigments are added to it and pressed on special machines;
then the layer is cut into strips of a given width and laid on a jute base;
the resulting dense texture ripens for another two weeks in the drying chamber, where it turns into marmoleum;
the last stage is the creation of a protective surface layer of polymers, which increases the wear resistance of the coating (you can purchase a material without this layer, it will be 100% natural, but it must be constantly rubbed with special mastics).

The quality of the material and its types

Like many floor coverings, marmoleum is divided into classes in terms of quality and durability:

22 - 23 class - the thickness of the pattern is about 2 mm, the coating is used for laying in general purposes (including residential);
31-32 class - pattern thickness 2.5 mm, the coating can withstand significant loads and has industrial application;
41 - 43 class - the thickness of the pattern is not less than 3 mm, the coating is used in rooms with high traffic (airports, hotels).

The higher the class of coverage, the higher its price. Therefore, when buying marmoleum for your home, you should not overpay for quality, the thinnest and cheapest material is quite suitable here.

Depending on the form in which it is released, marmoleum is divided into:

rolled with a width of 200 cm;
square tiles with dimensions 30 * 30 and 50 * 50 cm based on HDF board;
rectangular plates with dimensions 90 * 30 cm.

For home use buy more often tile material, which is less susceptible to damage, both during transport and during installation.

Advantages and disadvantages of marmoleum

There are disadvantages, like any other, but they are few:

There are many advantages:

Environmental friendliness of the material, which makes it possible to use it even in medical and children's institutions;
, which gives it the resin of conifers;
Hypoallergenic for both people and pets;
Large selection of colors and shades, giving ample opportunities design;
Uncomplicated and quick installation coverings;
Opportunity reuse with careful dismantling of tiled coatings;
High, unlike linoleum, resistance to mechanical damage and exposure to chemicals;
Marmoleum tolerates well high temperatures so can be used like topcoat for .

For starters, it should be noted that the material is not recommended for flooring in damp or cold rooms.

The best operating conditions are: humidity not more than 60% and temperature not lower than 18 degrees. Therefore, bathrooms are contraindicated, where the coating can deform and unheated rooms ( summer houses, and loggias).

The material is good for flooring in children's rooms, bedrooms, living rooms, office premises.

Preparation for styling

First you need to carefully study the purchased material in daylight. If you find defects after installation, your claims to quality will no longer be accepted.

Before starting work, packages with the material are stored for 2-3 days in the room where it will be mounted, laid on a flat surface.

The room must be dry and clean, all concrete and plastering work as well as installation of windows and doors.

The subfloor must be level, dry and solid. If there are irregularities, they must be eliminated using a self-leveling floor or dry screed. The deviation of the surface from the horizontal can be no more than 2 mm in either direction by 2 m.

Humidity concrete base cannot exceed 2%.

As you can use plastic wrap 0.2 mm thick. The edges of the film should be brought onto the walls by 5 cm, and overlap at the seams by at least 20 cm.

For better sound insulation and clipping impact noise on top of the waterproofing, you need to lay a special substrate made of foamed polyethylene with a density of at least 30 kg / cu. m and 2 mm thick.

If you have chosen roll material, then its installation is practically no different from. The only limitation is to avoid bending the material too much, it may crack.

To lay the tiles you will need:

roulette;
a pencil for marking;
or ;
wedges 1 - 1.5 cm thick;
wooden blocks;
hammer.

Determine in advance the floor pattern, the direction of laying the tiles. Carefully inspect the places of passage of pipes, the location of thresholds, protrusions of the walls and decide on the most rational placement of tiles in these places.

Technology:

The gap between the wall and the first panel should be at least 1-1.5 cm, which will protect the floor from deformation during thermal expansion. Prepared wedges are used to set this gap. The first panel is laid with a ridge against the wall, the rest are joined with their ends until the end of the row. It is necessary to correct the position of the panel by gently tapping with a hammer on the gasket from wooden block... This precaution will help to avoid damage to the material.
The beginning of the second row is the trimming of the last slab of the first row. It is inserted with a spike into the groove of the first row, but the lock is not latched, leaving the panel tilted. The slope is provided by prepared bars. All panels are sequentially joined together with their ends, leaving them at an angle. And only when the entire row is ready, the bars are removed and, by gentle pressing, the second row is snapped into place along the longitudinal joint with the first.
All subsequent rows are mounted in the same way.
After laying several rows, if the distance between the marmoleum and the wall becomes less than 1 cm, the position of the coating is corrected.
If the width of the last row is less than the width of the tile, then the material is cut in width with a jigsaw.
Minimum clearances must also be observed near pipes. At the end of the work, they are closed with special overlays.
fixed only to the wall, since the covering should not be fixed motionless. The width of the skirting board must cover the installation gap between the floor and the wall.
If the edge of any panel crumbles a little during installation, then at the end of the work, all such defects are sealed with a compound for linoleum, it is only important to choose the right color.

Caring for the coating is simple:

According to consumer reviews, for some time after laying the coating, the smell of oil can be felt in the room, which disappears over time. You need to be ready for this and not be afraid - marmoleum does not emit any harm.

It was also noted that saws for wood with a pitch of 2.5 mm make it possible to cut panel material almost perfectly - without chips and scoring.

When laying marmoleum in the kitchen (for greater sealing of the coating), a sealant can be used to treat the seams, the excess of which can be easily removed 10 - 15 minutes after application.

What is marmoleum? This new material for flooring, the production of which is rapidly developing. In the future, marmoleum is likely to replace all types of floor coverings, except wooden parquet from precious woods, which will remain as a luxury item.

Such an explosive spread of marmoleum is due to its truly outstanding advantages:

Marmoleum is absolutely environmentally friendly, it is made only from natural ingredients, and they are so cheap that counterfeiting is not economically justified.
Marmoleum is non-toxic, does not cause allergies, and in addition also has bactericidal properties.
Marmoleum is cheap: a floor made of marmoleum is 15-30% cheaper than the cheapest of today's materials - laminate.
The floor made of marmoleum does not require additional insulation and thermal insulation: the material itself has insulating properties.
Marmoleum is resistant and hygienic: it does not fade, does not swell when wet and does not warp, withstands a huge local load, even spilled paint does not stick to it. The warranty period of marmoleum is 20 years, but judging by the structure and manufacturing technology, in the future it will be increased up to 100 years.
Marmoleum does not accumulate static electricity and is not flammable: a cigarette butt thrown on it smolders without leaving a trace, and it is possible to burn through the marmoleum only with an autogenic.
Marmoleum is decorative: it can be painted in the most different colours, texture for wood, stone, etc. Currently, marmoleum is produced in 100 basic colors and more than 2000 shades.
And, finally, the marmoleum is extremely simple to work with: literally a preschooler can do the laying of the marmoleum with his own hands.

Video: marmoleum, its safety and basic installation points

A bit of history

How did such wonderful material come about? This took several centuries.

Even in ancient times, fabrics were impregnated with oil to increase their durability. By the 17th century. in Europe, jute appeared in everyday life - a very coarse and durable burlap made of fibers of plants of the genus Corchorus linden family: Indian flax, Calcutta hemp, tossa-jute. At the same time, oiled jute fabric, covered with different hardening compounds, began to be used for flooring. The prehistory of marmoleum ended in 1863 with British patent No. 209/1860 for linoleum, issued to Frederick Walton. In 1864, the serial production of linoleum began.

Walton managed to develop a very cheap and fairly durable upper layer coatings based on linseed oil, pine resin (sap), wood flour, natural dyes and chalk. After World War II, natural linoleum replaced PVC-based linoleum, but the global oil crisis and the expansion of environmental awareness revived the demand for natural linoleum, which contributed to the improvement of its production technology.

By the beginning of the 90s, even cheaper and higher quality substitutes for flaxseed oil and resin were found, obtained from highly productive tropical crops. At the same time, a third, intermediate layer of pressed cork chips was introduced into the linoleum structure. The finishing touch was the use of hot dry pressing technology, developed for the production of MDF, in the production of linoleum.

The coatings obtained in this way went on sale under the general name marmoleum. In fact, marmoleum is natural linoleum, brought to the limit of its perfection.

Marmoleum is especially good for children's rooms.

Disadvantages of marmoleum

There is no complete perfection, so marmoleum also has drawbacks.

Firstly, marmoleum is fragile, especially at the edges, and certain rules must be followed when working with it; see below. You can roll the marmoleum into a roll once with the base outside.
Secondly, over time, marmoleum softens and hardens a little. This is good for the floor: you do not need to carefully seal the seams, they will come together. But when buying marmoleum, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions for this particular brand and check the shelf life. If boxes with tiles or rolls were roughly handled during transportation, some of the material may be cracked, so you need to look for a seller with a guarantee.
Thirdly, marmoleum is heavy and at the same time retains residual plasticity along the layers for a long time. For the floor, again, this is good: you do not need to carefully level the base; the irregularities of a quarter or even a third of its thickness will be covered with marmoleum, and its surface will remain even. But it is impossible to use marmoleum to decorate the walls and even more so the ceiling: the coating will "float" under its weight. Marmoleum - exclusively flooring.
Fourth, marmoleum is poorly cut and smooth even cut, as on laminate or MDF, it is impossible to achieve on it. Therefore, the marmoleum is cut only along the walls to size, where the cut is covered with a plinth. That is, decorative possibilities when laying marmoleum on its own, it is limited to laying out a pattern from standard tiles.

Characteristics, classification, standard sizes

The technical characteristics of the marmoleum have actually already been described. It remains to add that it can withstand a load of 160 kg / sq. cm (!), its specific gravity is 2.6 - 3.4 kg / sq. m, and the total thickness is 2-4 mm, depending on the class.

Marmoleum is produced in the following classes:

41-43 - top decorative layer more than 3 mm thick. Withstands up to 100 thousand attacks per day for 5 years. Designed for public spaces with a large flow of visitors; for example - large international airports.
31-33 - industrial. The thickness of the decorative layer is up to 2.5 mm. Alternating loads hold worse than 41-43, but more resistant to static load.
21-23 - general purpose. It differs from the industrial one only in a thinner coating (up to 2 mm) and in price - it is cheaper.

Conclusion: do not buy the thickest and most expensive marmoleum for your home. From the legs of concentrated loads: cabinets, stands for an aquarium, holes can form in it over time. Buy the cheapest one for yourself.

The sizes of marmoleum are as follows:

Rolls 2 m wide. Roll marmoleum for self styling not good enough - you need a loader, a crane and a team of experienced riggers to handle it. Once the roll is rolled out, it is no longer possible to roll it back. Due to the severity and fragility of the material, working with long strips in an apartment is extremely inconvenient.
Tiles 50x50 cm and 30x30 cm. They are laid on glue like PVC or ceramic tiles.
Panels 90x30 cm. Stacked like tiles.

Laying marmoleum

Tool

When installing marmolium, use the laminate flooring tools with care: the edges of tiles or panels are fragile. It is better to stock up on a wooden or rubber hammer (mallet) and a rule (clamp-hook) with a wide, at least 150 mm, hook. The rest of the tools are common.

On the previous cover

Marmoleum can be laid directly on the previous floor covering with any assembly adhesive. But, if the old floor is playing or it has been trampled down to depressions, then the previous coating must be removed and the marmoleum must be laid on bare concrete. There is no need to worry about heat / sound insulation - marmoleum itself is an excellent insulator.

Marmoleum tiles on the previous coating are glued end-to-end. It is undesirable to use the panels - on an old rough floor, they can get stuck when adjusted.

Preparation of the base

Concrete base or cement-sand screed under the marmolium, if there are noticeable protrusions on it, you need to align. It is imperative to remove sharp protrusions with a height of more than 1.5-2 mm. This can be done with a drill or grinder in a bowl-shaped circle over the stone. If the cup accidentally hits the concrete, it's okay, the cavity can be repaired cement mortar or a starting putty. After leveling, the dust must be swept away, the remains must be collected with a vacuum cleaner, then sprinkled with water and rinsed again.

Option "for the lazy", but more expensive: cover the base with a plastic pillow under the laminate. In any case, no pre-treatment of the substrate with a bituminous primer or the like. not required.

Marmoleum for offices, on which the company symbols are applied, is gaining particular popularity.

Cutting the material

We measure how many solid tiles or panels will fit the width of the room; then - how many rows will lie in length. At the same time, we take into account a gap of 15-30 mm along the perimeter; it will be covered with a plinth. The gap is needed so that due to thermal and plastic deformations of the coating, it does not swell over time.
We cut along the length of the remainder of the whole with an electric jigsaw or manual circular saw number of tiles / panels equal to the number of transverse rows.

Example: a room in the plan 4x6 m; cover with panels. The remainder of the whole 400 - (90x4 = 360) = 40 cm. The length comes out 600/30 = 20 rows. We cut 20 pieces of 36 cm long (36x30 cm).

When laying with a comb, with an offset of the transverse seams, the cutting ends here. If you want to lay out the remainder of the whole evenly around the perimeter, each piece must be cut in half along the length. In the example, you get 40 pieces of 18x30 cm.

Styling process

How to lay marmoleum on concrete? Very simple:

Close to the far short wall, we lay a 15-30 mm rail, wrapped in a thin plastic wrap... The film will prevent the strip from sticking from accidental glue drips. We lay the same rail along the left long wall; if you are left-handed, then along the right.
We start laying from the left far corner (from the right - for left-handers). In place of the future tile, we apply mounting glue with a snake, construction silicone or mastic for linoleum. We put on the tiles, push them tightly into the corner. If necessary, we use the rule and the mallet.
We lay out the transverse rows row by row until the entire area is filled. We are waiting for the glue to set, as indicated in the instructions for it. That's all.

Explanation: if you put it with a comb, then start the rows alternately from a solid panel, then from a cut one. When laying out the remainder of the whole around the perimeter, each row begins and ends with a trim.

Not so long ago, a new material for flooring has appeared - marmoleum. What is it? In fact, it is natural linoleum, only much best quality... Their main difference is that this material consists of natural and environmentally friendly components. They make it from pine needles resin, jute, balsa wood using linseed oil and natural dyes. This is undoubtedly a huge plus for this product. But before making a decision: apply marmoleum in the process of construction and repair with your own hands or not, you need to weigh the pros and cons.

2. Advantages of marmoleum coating.

High strength of this material. Able to withstand a load equal to 160 kg per 1m 2. This means that even very heavy furniture does not push it to dents.

Solvent and various other chemical solutions do not do any harm to marmoleum.

Spilled liquids of various origins do not leave marks and are easily removed from the surface marmoleum.

This material is painted over to its full depth, which ensures the preservation appearance even when gradually erasing it.

Coating marmoleum has antibacterial properties due to the presence of linseed oil in its composition.

Does not cause allergies.

It does not burn and it is almost impossible to burn it, with the exception of ultra-high temperatures.

Marmoleum refers to a fairly good noise isolator.

Ecological purity of marmoleum.

Consists of natural ingredients.

3. Disadvantages of marmoleum coating

One of the main disadvantages of marmoleum is its fragility, especially around the edges.

Heavy enough material. Again, this applies to the more roll type.

By the way, if you use such a marmoleum, then you need to contact a specialist, because it will be problematic to do it yourself. Since this will require special equipment.

Cropping produces uneven and ugly edges. But if you cut off only those places that will then be covered with baseboards, then there is no tragedy in this.

Over time, it can deform due to diffusion. Therefore, when buying, be sure to check the integrity of the packaging and the expiration date of the product!

At first from covering marmoleum comes bad smell... However, it disappears after a while.

A floor like this will not be a cheap pleasure.

Now let's talk about how to produce laying marmoleum do it yourself. There is nothing complicated in this process. Naturally, we mean only marmoleum tiled (there are sizes 30 × 30 or 50 × 50 cm) or panel type (90 × 30 cm). By the way, the technology itself is very similar to laying a cork floor, the methods of laying which we talked about.

Stages laying marmoleum:

1. To begin with, as always in the process of laying the flooring with your own hands, you need to prepare its base. If the old floor is flat, without depressions and potholes, then natural linoleum can be installed immediately without preliminary preparation... The main thing is that the surface is clean. If there are any irregularities and the floor is wooden, then, as a rule, it is leveled by covering it with plywood, OSB or something similar. If the floor is concrete, then a self-leveling screed can be poured. The most important thing is to ensure that the surface is even, in order to avoid damage to the material in the future.

2. Since the coating marmoleum has a tendency to deformation due to temperature changes, namely, it becomes longer when it rises, and when it decreases, it takes its shape again, it is necessary to leave the so-called temperature gap around the entire perimeter of the room. As a rule, special spacers should be included in the kit for this. This gap will then be closed with a plinth.

Fig. 1 Spacers when laying marmoleum

3. Laying marmoleum starts from the center in the event that some kind of pattern is provided. If not, we stack from any corner in order.

4. Joining plates natural linoleum takes place in a special castle. Since this is done at a certain angle, it will be convenient for an emphasis to use beveled bars in the work, which are removed immediately after the slabs are joined.

Fig. 2 Bar under the marmoleum coating

Fig. 3 Bar

5. If you need to knock on the plates marmoleum, do it through some kind of spacer, and not directly on the material. Use a rubber mallet or mallet as an impact tool.

Fig. 4 We knock the plate through the spacer

6. Cutting marmoleum is done with a jigsaw or a saw with a fine tooth.

Fig. 5 Cutting the slab

5. Let's summarize

In general, as you can see, there is nothing complicated in the process. laying marmoleum do it yourself. The main thing is to level the floor and carefully work with the material. If you have any questions, write in the comments. Good luck to you DIY construction and repair!