Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Someone might say that it is troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case are repaid a hundredfold. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that "babies" have always been considered more fashionable, to the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it is worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterning, degree of prickle, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in the open field.

People began to grow crocuses as early as 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses that bloom as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest crocus varieties that bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup from early young cabbage on beef broth - hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook a delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup in this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is put into the pot at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike fall cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready-made cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. The present cabbage soup is tastier than the freshly cooked one.

Blueberry is an uncommon promising berry crop in orchards. Blueberries are a source of biologically active substances and vitamins, they have antiscorbutic, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, restorative properties. Berries contain vitamins C, E, A, flavonoids, anthocyanins, trace elements - zinc, selenium, copper, manganese, as well as plant hormones - phytoestrogens. Blueberry berries taste like a mixture of grapes and blueberries.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties "for yourself". The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have a lot of energy and time to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, Coleus today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, Coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, the bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon ridge baked in Provencal herbs is a "supplier" of tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh leaves of wild garlic. Champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then poured with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled mushrooms and are better for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill get along well in one salad, emphasizing the aroma of each other. The garlic pungency of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of the salmon and the pieces of mushrooms.

A coniferous tree or shrub on the site is always great, and many conifers are even better. Emerald needles of various shades adorn the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils secreted by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults conifers are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics under the shade of flowering trees have long become an integral part of the welcome of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year begins here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese are marked by their blossoming. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how the tastes and addictions of people to certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for over 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. NS. about 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your kids will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such an original cookie for Easter, read our step-by-step recipe!

There are not so many decorative leafy pets among tuberous crops. And Caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of the Caladiums never justify. Care and attention will help to avoid any difficulties in growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or whatever. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don't want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can do it ahead of time to keep everything hot), add the gravy and lunch is ready! A real lifesaver.

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Rooted leafy cuttings are planted from boxes in open ground next spring.

How to propagate phlox with stem cuttings?

The soil in the beds should be about the same composition as in the box. Sand is not poured onto the surface of the ridge. The distance between rows should be 15-20 cm and between plants in a row 10 cm.

For cutting stem cuttings take green, well-developed stems. The plant intended for propagation by cuttings must be healthy. In May-June, when the stems are in a state of intense growth, the entire stem can be used to harvest cuttings. By the end of growth and bud formation (July-August), the stems in the lower part are lignified and the lower parts are not suitable for cutting cuttings, since they are poorly rooted. In late summer and autumn, cuttings are cut from the top 2/3 of the stem.

Phloxes are easy to propagate by dividing perennial bushes in spring or autumn. They can also be propagated by green cuttings, axillary leaves and seeds. The breeding method is chosen depending on the goal. During vegetative propagation, that is, when dividing a bush, cuttings, etc., specimens grow that exactly repeat the uterine sample. When propagated by seeds, new varieties can be obtained. This method is used when developing new varieties.

The lower ends of the second group of experimental cuttings are dipped into a solution of honey - one teaspoon per 0.5 liter of water. Processing time - 12 hours. Cuttings are immersed in the solution for a third of their length. Cuttings were taken from different varieties of phlox. Each variant contains 20 plants.

Cuttings from lateral axillary shoots that appeared in July can be planted in open ground. From August to September, rooting of axillary shoots and cuttings from them is carried out in a cold greenhouse or in a greenhouse.

Cutting phlox in summer with leafy cuttings

Phlox paniculata relatively easily tolerate a transplant (even during flowering) and quite simply reproduce vegetatively. Looking through the articles on floriculture, interesting information was found on the use of growth stimulants for better survival of cuttings, which influenced the choice of the topic of this work on biology. Its purpose: to find out the effect of pre-planting treatment with growth stimulants of green cuttings of paniculate phlox on their rooting and development.

Paniculate phlox: Festival, Alyonushka, Abundant, Carnival, Scarlet flower, Success, New, Mashenka, Natasha.

Growing phlox

Perennial phlox, propagation by root cuttings

1. In early spring, the bush must be dug up, shaken off the excess soil, and divided into parts, the cuts must be treated with ash or crushed charcoal. Parts of the bush must be immediately planted in pre-prepared holes.

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Phlox are beautiful perennial flowers with a variety of varieties, the bushes of which can transform any area. There are two main ways to reproduce them: using seeds and vegetative. The first method is most often used by breeders when they want to breed a new variety by crossing existing ones. Vegetation methods are used when they want, on the contrary, to preserve the characteristics of the variety. In addition, this method is quite simple, and even a novice florist can cope with it.

Reproduction of phlox by dividing the bush

This method is based on the ability of phlox roots to develop buds on their roots. Reproduction by root buds is done as follows. In the fall, when the aerial part of phlox dies off, the bush is carefully dug up, shaken off the ground and all thin roots are removed.

Cuttings harvested in the fall (from August to September) are planted in cold greenhouses or on racks in unheated greenhouses, since cuttings root poorly in the open field at this time and often die in winter.

Cuttings are prepared as follows. The stalk with leaves is cut into pieces with a sharp knife in such a way that there are two nodes on each cutting. In this case, the lower cut should be made directly under the lower knot, and the upper one - about 5-10 mm above the upper knot. Then, on the handle, the lower leaves are cut with a knife, while maintaining axillary kidneys... The top leaves are trimmed in half to reduce the drying out of the cuttings.

This method of phlox breeding is the easiest and fastest. The division of the bush can be carried out in spring and autumn: in the spring, when the soil thaws to the depth of the plant roots by about 18-20 cm. Division must be done carefully. First, the plexus of the root necks is separated from one another, then the roots going to these plexuses are taken apart, trying not to cut them off. It is necessary to use a knife only when it is not possible to separate the rhizome with your hands. Moreover, only the places of fusion of the root necks are cut with a knife, further separating the parts with the hands. By carefully dividing a 4-5-year-old bush, you can get 15-20 or more parts.

Reproduction of phlox by cuttings

For the second stage of the experiments (2009), heteroauxin was chosen as a stimulant. When using heteroauxin, the consumption rate of the drug is 2 g / 0.5 l. Soak green cuttings for 16 hours. Consumption - 0.5 l / 25 pieces.

Plant growth regulators, or as they are also called, biostimulants, are natural or synthetic compounds that, in very small doses, can cause significant changes in the growth and development of plants. The use of growth bioregulators leads to changes in metabolism, accelerates metabolic reactions and increases protective responses to external negative factors.

When carrying out cuttings of phlox and monitoring their rooting, the following tasks were set: - to find out the effect of honey on the survival rate of planted cuttings and on frost resistance of plants; - to find out the effect of heteroauxin on the survival rate of cuttings of floxes, as well as on the growth of internodes, the length of the shoots, and the length of the leaf. The hypothesis is that cuttings soaked before planting in a solution of stimulants should take root better.

Besides perennial phlox there are also annuals.

Does not do without watering. Phloxes simply adore him. During the growth and development of buds, watering is simply necessary for phlox. It must be firmly remembered that phloxes need to be watered at the root, but not over the plants themselves, especially with cold water. This can provoke such a common fungal disease as powdery mildew. In hot weather, the watering hose can be left under the bush for a while. This method of watering for phlox is the most comfortable.

2. It is necessary to plant parts of the bush at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other. Press down firmly with earth so that air does not penetrate into loose soil and does not dry out the roots. It is important to thoroughly shed the plantings with a solution of "epin". This solution is prepared according to the instructions. The stimulant will help the plant to cope with the stress of the transplant and take root faster.

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Reproduction by cuttings is most often used for phlox. How to cut phlox?

Soil for phlox

Thick, non-lignified roots are cut and cut into pieces of 3-5 cm, then they are laid obliquely in distribution boxes filled with nutritious soil. From above, the cuttings are covered with a 3-4 cm layer of clean river sand. In this case, the thicker part of the roots should be at the top, as usual, and the root grows. The composition of the soil in the boxes is about the same as when phlox is propagated by leaf cuttings.

Fertilizers for phlox

In order for the cuttings to root better and faster, they can be pretreated with growth stimulants (heteroauxin and other substances). A solution of heteroauxin is used at a concentration of 50-100 mg per 1 liter of water, the cuttings are immersed in the solution for 2/3 of the length and kept for 8-12 hours.

Technique of cutting and planting stem cuttings of phlox: 1 - places of cutting the stem into cuttings; 2 stalk; 3 - sand; 4 - ground

Watering phlox

Each separated part must have growth buds - “eyes” or shoot buds. The rhizome without growth buds perishes.The treated cuttings were immediately planted in a greenhouse, watering the experimental cuttings with a solution of heteroauxin - one tablet per five liters of water. Cuttings were taken from one bush of the "Polar Bear" phlox variety.

Phlox feeding

The use of biostimulants makes it possible to fully realize the potential of a plant inherent in the genome by nature and selection, to regulate the ripening time, to improve the quality and increase the productivity of plants.

Experiments were carried out and the results of studies were described in order to study the effect of pre-planting treatment with biostimulants of green cuttings of phlox on their survival rate and other indicators.

Growing

During the summer, it is required to feed phlox three times. If the summer is rainy, then the top dressing is done dry, if there is not enough rain, liquid top dressing is carried out.

3. During the first two weeks after transplanting, the plants must be regularly watered, removed weeds, once a week, leaves and stems can be sprayed with a weak solution of growth stimulants. This procedure will help young plants to take root in a new place faster.

The optimal time for this is late spring - early summer, while the shoots have not yet had time to stiffen. In order to prevent the leaves from withering, the entire process of grafting should be carried out at one time, avoiding even the slightest interruptions.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Boxes with root cuttings for the winter are placed in a dark room or basement, in which the air temperature does not rise above 2 ... 3 ° C. The soil in the boxes should be moist all the time so that the cuttings do not dry out. At the end of winter (February-March), the cuttings are brought into a heated room or greenhouse, the boxes are covered with plywood and the temperature is gradually raised.For the same purpose, you can successfully use pure aloe juice diluted in half with water, dipping the cuttings into it during planting. The survival rate of cuttings reaches 100%. Cuttings develop very well. The juice must be fresh, so it is squeezed out of the aloe leaves on the day of cuttings.

Reproduction of phlox by cuttings

Planting cuttings with a dive peg

Spring division of rhizomes is best done as early as possible, at the very beginning of the growth of aerial shoots.

Phlox varieties

Each variant contains 10 plants.

Natural honey is a biologically active product. Honey contains many substances that have a beneficial effect on metabolic processes: sugar, proteins, minerals, organic acids, almost all trace elements known in nature in small amounts of vitamins, as well as antibacterial, antifungal, hormonal, aromatic, coloring and other substances, some biogenic stimulants (including pollen impurities) that increase the vital activity of the body.

Perennial phloxes reproduce by dividing the bush, stem cuttings, axillary buds with a leaf, spring growth shoots, summer-autumn axillary lateral shoots, root cuttings and seeds. Annual The first feeding is done when the stems grow. Liquid top dressing consists of 10 liters of water and 2 tablespoons of urea diluted in it. The dry top dressing includes: one bucket of compost or humus and two tablespoons of urea. The components are thoroughly mixed and scattered next to the plants. This amount can feed three phlox bushes.For rapid reproduction of this wonderful perennial in a short time, you can resort to such a simple method as cuttings. This will help you easily and easily get a large amount of planting material and decorate all corners of the garden with phlox. The first thing to do is to prepare cuttings directly. To do this, the shoot with already sufficiently developed leaves must be divided into parts so that there are two nodes on each segment. The slices should be positioned like this: the lower one is directly below the lower knot, and the upper one at a distance of about 5 mm from the upper knot. The lower leaves should be cut off completely, the upper ones should be cut in half.

When the sprouts appear, they begin to accustom them to light. In the spring (May), the developed plants are planted in open ground for growing, and in the first half of September or better in the spring of next year, they are planted in a permanent place.

The method of cutting by leaves is due to the ability of the axillary bud of the cutting to form roots when it is backfilled with earth. With this method of propagation, up to 80-100 seedlings can be obtained from one adult bush.

Cuttings should be cut in the shade if the day is sunny, but it is best done in cloudy weather. The stems should be kept in a box with damp bedding.

The advantage of the spring division of rhizomes is that in the spring the bush can be divided into a very large number of parts, as long as there is a growth bud ("eye") and a small number of roots on each separated piece.

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Cutting phlox paniculata using growth stimulants

Cuttings of phlox in the garden are usually planted in transverse rows with a distance of 8-10 cm between them, and between plants 5 - 6 cm. diffused lighting. We looked after the rooting cuttings, sprinkling them with water every day. The rooted plants were left in greenhouses until the spring of next year. During the period of the experiment, observations, watering, weeding, photographing were carried out.

Thus, honey is a rather complex natural product, including enzymes. Enzymes are special organic substances that, in very small quantities, significantly accelerate metabolic reactions. Thanks to its chemical composition honey is used as a stimulant for better survival of plant cuttings.

Experiments with cuttings of paniculata phlox

Reproduction of phlox paniculate stem cuttings is a fairly simple method, therefore it was he who was used in our experiments.

Phlox

The second feeding is done during the development of buds on phlox. To do this, dissolve 60 grams of nitrophoska in a large bucket of water and 30-35 grams of Rossa and Agricola for flowering plants". This amount is enough to feed three phlox bushes.

1. In the spring at the beginning of May, when the phlox shoots reach 2 - 3 cm, some of them must be carefully broken off with a "heel", that is, with a piece of the root.

Reproduction of phlox stem cuttings

Prepare the soil before planting ready-made cuttings for rooting. To do this, mix in equal parts the soil from the garden, humus and sand and lay it on the ground with a layer of at least 10 cm. About 2 cm from above we pour a layer of wet sand. Next, we plant the prepared sections of the stem. We stick them into the sand layer, making sure that the lower end does not touch the soil. The distance between the cuttings should be 5-6 cm. They should be arranged in the form of transverse beds, at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other.

You can propagate phlox by root cuttings and in early spring... In this case, the boxes with cuttings do not need to be monitored all winter.

Phlox is propagated by leafy cuttings in summer, during the period of full development of the stems on the bush. From the middle part of a well-developed stem, with a sharp knife or razor, a shield with an axillary bud and a leaf is cut off, similar to how it is done in fruit growing during budding. The shield should be 8-10 mm long.

Cuttings are usually planted in transverse rows with a distance between rows of 8 cm and between plants 5-6 cm.

Division of phlox rhizome and part of the rhizome separated in spring: a - the remainder of last year's stem; b - the rudiments of new stems

The number of established cuttings of phlox treated with honey (experiment) is greater than that of control cuttings (water). On average, we found that the survival rate of cuttings of phlox treated with honey was 58%, and that of controls - 35% Many plants take root for a long time, and some species are not able to form adventitious roots at all. Therefore, in practice, natural growth substances (in particular, heteroauxin) have found wide application, which make it possible to root the cutting of almost any plant. Heteroauxin is a chemical of high physiological activity that forms in plants and affects growth processes.Phlox cuttings can be planted both in open ground and in cold greenhouses. Cuttings of phlox in the open field are usually carried out from the end of May to the second half of July. The survival rate of cuttings, depending on the period of cuttings, varies during the summer. The highest percentage of rooting (up to 100 percent) is provided by stem cuttings of phlox planted between late May and June.

Produced with seeds. Seeds are sown for seedlings in boxes at the same time as vegetable seedlings, but they can be sown in open ground at the end of April. Of the annual phlox, the following varieties can be recommended for breeding: Twinkling Star, White Phlox, Drummond, Attractive mixture.

The third, last, top dressing is done after the end of flowering. For liquid feeding, take a large bucket of water, 30 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams of potassium sulfate. Dry top dressing consists of a bucket of peat or compost 60 grams of phosphorus-potassium mixture or 60 grams of fertilizer "Autumn". All components are thoroughly mixed and scattered under the plants. With this amount of fertilizer, you can feed from 3 to 4 bushes.

2. To accelerate survival, it is better to use root stimulants. One of these stimulants, time-tested and millions of gardeners, is "root".

The value of growth biostimulants

After planting, the cuttings should be slightly shaded or covered with a film stretched over the frame. Water the garden bed twice a day with warm water. After a couple of weeks, when the stems sprout roots, and green young shoots appear on top, the shading or film must be removed.

Spring cuttings of roots usually accompanies reproduction by dividing the bushes in early spring, since with this division up to 1/3 of the roots can be taken from the rhizome and used for propagation.

Honey is a biologically active product

The part of the phlox stem, which shows the places where the cuttings are cut

The planting of cuttings is carried out using a small dive peg, with which a hole is made, into which the cutting is then inserted. It should be submerged in the soil up to about the top knot. Having planted a stalk, stick a peg next to it and press the earth against the stalk with it.

Heteroauxin - root formation stimulant

Parts of rhizomes planted in early spring root much better than late planting. This is favored by the high soil moisture and relatively low air temperature. In addition, the plant has not yet used up the nutrients laid down in the rhizomes and roots since autumn.

At the beginning of June 2009, the overwintered cuttings of phlox were counted. On average, it turned out that the control cuttings overwintered by 20%, and the experimental cuttings - 45%, that is, by 25% more.

The physiological role of heteroauxin in plants is very diverse. In addition to stimulating cell division and elongation, heteroauxin affects many other processes in plants. Under the action of heteroauxin, biochemical processes are activated, the intensity of respiration, the level of redox processes and oxygen exchange change, which are important conditions growth and metabolism in the plant.

Experiments with cuttings of paniculata phlox

Phlox cuttings are taken from annual shoots of healthy plants (growth of the current year). From one plant, you can take no more than a third of all formed one-year increments. It is not necessary to cut off the entire phlox shoot. The lower part of the shoot with two well-developed buds should be left on the mother plant.

Good luck in growing phlox!

These top dressings will ensure a lush bloom of phlox for the next season.

3. In cuttings it is necessary to remove the leaves from the lower part, treat the “heels” with the “root” powder and plant in loose soil with a predominance of sand. Then pour with water and spray with “epin” solution. This is necessary for stress relief and better regeneration.

In July-August, rooted and well-grown cuttings will need to be planted on another site. You need to prepare it in the same way, and then plant the young plants so that the distance between them is at least 20 cm. At this place they should be left for the winter, and with the onset of spring, transplanted to a permanent place.

During spring propagation, root cuttings are planted in distribution boxes, which are installed in a greenhouse or some other room with an air temperature of 10 ... 15 ° C, having previously covered them from light. After 10-15 days, the temperature is increased to 18 ... 25 ° C. When the shoots appear, the shading is removed, the plants accustomed to the light are planted out of the boxes in the open ground.

Leafy cutting, planted in soil for rooting

Cuttings with two knots are usually planted without a dive peg, since with little effort they enter the soil quite easily and sit tightly in it if the soil is pressed against the cutting with two fingers.

With careful care, all bushes spring planting take root and bloom by autumn, albeit with some delay.

When studying the effect of heteroauxin on the survival rate of cuttings of phlox varieties "Polar Bear", it turned out that cuttings treated with heteroauxin took root by 13% more.

Results of research of cuttings on the first stage (2007-2008)

Studies of the Heteroauxin preparation have shown that even a single treatment has a beneficial effect not only on the root system, but also on the plant as a whole: - causes the accumulation and increased metabolism of organic substances; - promotes the regeneration of a part of plants into a new individual; - stimulates the formation of roots in cuttings; - accelerates root formation in seedlings and adult plants; - enhances the growth of adventitious roots; - improves tissue fusion during grafting; - improves the survival rate of vegetable seedlings and flower crops, trees and shrubs when replanting; - increases the germination of seeds and bulbs, accelerates their germination; - prevents ovaries and leaves from falling off; - significantly increases the vitality of the generative organs; - increases the yield of seeds from fruits and increases the yield; - the multiplication factor of the bulbs and their mass increases; - has a stimulating effect on the duration of flowering.

The basic rules for cutting and planting cuttings of phlox (see Fig. 1) are as follows: 1) the shoot for the cutting is cut off with a clean sharp knife directly under the internode; 2) the lower leaves are removed from the cutting; 3) the lower end of the cutting should only come into contact with a layer of washed coarse sand; 4) the handle is not stuck in, but inserted into the hole made with a peg, and then squeezed from the side (with a peg or fingers); 5) the cutting is planted shallowly, but only so that it can be kept upright (1-1.5 cm).

Results of research of cuttings on the second stage (2008-2009)

In perennial phlox, reproduction occurs by dividing the bush and grafting.

4. Then the cuttings should be covered with “agril” or any similar covering material. It will not allow the sun to burn the leaves of plants that are still taking root and sick, and at the same time retain moisture. In the future, watering can be done through "agril", it passes moisture well, it is also not necessary to open and ventilate the plantings, since this covering material creates an optimal microclimate for plants, with a sufficient level of humidity and at the same time provides access to fresh air.

This method is used in July-August. For reproduction from the middle of a well-developed stem, a shield with an axillary bud and a leaf is cut off, its length should be 8-10 mm. A similar effect can be achieved if you divide the stem shoot, 2 cm long, into two parts.

Conclusions on the study of phlox cuttings

Sprouts do not appear on all root cuttings, and they develop unevenly, therefore, the plants are selectively planted on the garden bed, allowing the remaining ones to germinate.

The cut-off flap with a bud and a leaf is planted in distribution boxes, previously filled with fertile soil, and on top of it - with sand with a layer of 2 cm. The ground for stuffing boxes is prepared from humus (or compost), well-decomposed peat and sand, taken in equal volumes. When planting in boxes, the axillary kidney should be at a depth of 1.5 cm, and the flap should be vertical. The cuttings are planted in rows, one from another at a distance of 10 cm, the distance in a row is 5-6 cm. If the leaf blade at the cut flap is very large, it is cut by about 1/3 before planting.

After planting, the box with cuttings is watered and shaded if there are no natural shades. Shading is left until the cuttings sprout.

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Reproduction of phloxes - Nursery POLISAD. Collection of flowers Zubkova Yu.V. Peonies, lilies, daffodils, tulips, hosts, phloxes, irises. Perennials. Planting material. 2012 catalog

The second main term for dividing bushes and transplanting phloxes in the middle zone of the European part of Russia is the last decade of August - the first decade of September. By this time, in most varieties, growth buds have already been laid on the root collars of the stems. Timely and correct planting in the fall ensures good rooting and abundant flowering next year.

Reproduction by dividing a perennial bush

The indicators for the height of the shoots turned out to be interesting. The growth of experienced phlox cuttings in one month is greater than that of control ones. The average shoot growth in the experimental cuttings in July turned out to be 3.3 cm higher on average.

The place of the experiment is the school site. Time of the event: the first stage from June to October 2008; the second stage from June to October 2009.

Preparation of phlox cuttings for planting is carried out indoors. It consists in preparing the lower cut (it is done under the kidney), removing 2-3 lower leaves

Growing phlox

A detailed photo-instruction on phlox propagation by cuttings can be found here: www.gardenstew.com/about16420.html

Prepared shields are planted in boxes. The soil in them should be the same as for stem cuttings with obligatory layer sand from above. They should be planted so that the kidney extends about 1 cm deep, and the flap is located vertically. If the leaf on the handle is too large, it should be cut off by a third.

Phlox roots remaining in the ground are able to form new above-ground stems, which also allows the mother bush to be preserved.

After planting, leaf cuttings should be sprayed with lukewarm water (26 ... 28 ° C) and cover the boxes with glass.

The first 5-7 days, cuttings must be watered 3-5 times a day and make sure that they do not wither. In the future, watering is carried out as needed. Water the cuttings with warm water (25 ... 30 ° С), cold water delays rooting.

As an exception, the bushes can be divided and transplanted to another place in the summer (May, June, July), during the intensive growth of the stems. With this transplantation period, the growth of plants is greatly delayed, such plantings require especially careful care. When transplanting in summer, the bushes are usually divided into relatively large parts, since the small parts of the rhizomes are much more difficult to take root due to hot weather. The bushes are watered before digging so that the soil is preserved on the roots during division and transplantation.

In an experiment with phlox cuttings, we found out that heteroauxin affects the length of internodes. The difference between the average length of the control and experimental cuttings was 1 cm in one month.

Propagation by green cuttings

The soil of the school site is neutral with a pH of 6.0, rich enough nutrients... A bed for planting cuttings was made in advance and placed in such a place on the site so that in the hot hours of the day it was shaded by rare trees, but at the same time it was not under their crowns. Thanks to shading, cuttings of phlox do not fade.

On the same topic

Always accompanied by their reproduction and more often reproduction occurs by dividing the bush. Bushes 4-5 years old are separated in the spring, but it is also possible in the fall. The bushes need to be divided into several parts and transplanted to a new place every 5 years to rejuvenate. If you don’t transplant, then over time the inflorescences will be crushed. Phloxes should be planted at a distance of half a meter from each other. Transplanting phlox has a positive effect on their flowering - it becomes more generous and lush.

Phlox can be grown in open and shaded places. Phlox bloom longer in a shaded area.

After planting, leaf cuttings should be watered with warm water from a sprayer and covered with glass. The boxes should be placed in a warm room at a temperature of 25-28 ° C and the sand layer should not be allowed to dry out. After 2-3 weeks, the first roots are formed, and by autumn a young plant with one stem grows. In the spring, they can already be planted on the ground.

To prevent freezing of weak shoots that appeared after cutting the rhizome late autumn, it is advisable to mulch the plots.

Boxes with leafy cuttings are kept in warm rooms (with an air temperature of 25 ... 28 ° C) and make sure that the sand is moist all the time. After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings develop roots. By autumn, a plant with one stem is formed from a leafy cuttings. As the stalk develops, the plants are accustomed to open air by opening greenhouses.

Phlox plant grown from stem cuttings 5-6 weeks after cuttings

It is better to divide the bushes (in spring, summer, autumn) in cloudy weather and protect the roots from drying out before planting in a permanent place, sprinkling the separated parts with earth, covering them with wet moss or dipping the rhizomes in a mullein and clay mash.

We also compared the leaf length of the experimental and control plants. In each variant, three plants were taken, the length of all leaves was measured, and the average leaf length was calculated. The average length of leaves in cuttings of the experimental variant exceeded the average length of leaves in the control variant by 2.2 cm.

The soil on the planting bed should be loose, nutritious, and sufficiently moist. The soil of the bed was dug onto the bayonet of a shovel, carefully choosing the rhizomes of weeds. A specially prepared substrate was poured on top (with a layer of 7-10 cm), consisting of well-mixed ingredients (by volume): a third of leaf humus, a third of good garden soil and a third of sand. After leveling the surface, clean sand was poured onto the ridge with a layer of 1.5-2 cm.This layer of sand is very important for the success of rooting of phlox cuttings, since it protects the soil surface from excessive evaporation, does not allow crust to form on the surface of the bed, and also well lets air through to the roots.

In the upper part of the cutting, the number of leaves is minimized (2-3), and large leaves are shortened by half (to reduce moisture evaporation from their surface). The length of the cuttings can range from 6 to 10 cm.

Cuttings should be cut. To do this, take a non-lignified shoot or part of it. It should have two pairs of leaves and one internode. Remove the lower leaves, and cut the upper ones in half. You can use leafy cuttings.

Phloxes love well-groomed, fertile and moist soil, but they do not tolerate acidic, clayey and damp soils. In lowlands, where there is an excess of moisture, phloxes cannot grow normally.

This method is more laborious than the previous ones, therefore it is not very popular and is used when it is necessary to get rid of pests, for example, root nematodes. Old thick roots are used as cuttings, which are divided into pieces.

In spring and summer, the shoots must be fed with a solution of a mullein 1:15 or 15-20 g of saltpeter per bucket of water in order to accelerate the growth and development of new bushes.

Young plant growing from a leaf cut

Propagation by leaf cuttings

3-4 weeks after planting, roots appear in the cuttings, and one or two shoots form in the axils of the leaves of the upper node, which develop into stems. If grafting was early and good care was provided, the plant can bloom by autumn.

In addition to the described methods of dividing the bushes, there is another one, which consists in the fact that a bush sitting in the ground is cut into two parts. One part, together with the roots and soil, is taken out and nutritious soil is poured into the formed hole. The rest of the bush continues to grow. The part of the bush taken out of the ground is planted in a new place in its entirety or divided into several parts beforehand. After 2-3 years, you can cut off a part of the old bush again, but on the other side. The mother bush in the renewed land can remain in the same place for several more years.

After carrying out the above studies, we came to the following conclusions: • Green cuttings of paniculate phlox treated with honey solution, in comparison with control cuttings (water), showed the following results: • survival rate of cuttings is 23% higher; • young plants bloom earlier; 25% more frost-resistant • Green cuttings of phlox varieties "Polar Bear", treated with heteroauxin, in comparison with the control (water), showed the following results: • the survival rate of cuttings is 13% more; • the growth of shoots of young plants is 3.3 cm more; • an increase in the length of internodes by 1 cm more; • an increase in the length of a leaf by 2.2 cm more.

Phlox cuttings were made. Cuttings were taken from annual shoots from the middle and lower parts. The length of the cuttings is 4-5 cm. 2 leaves were left on each cuttings.

Fig. 1. Technique for cutting and planting stem cuttings of paniculata phlox

The article is based on the materials of the research work "The influence of growth stimulants on the survival rate of phlox cuttings" by Anastasia Kalinina, a member of the Scientific Society of Students of the Kungursk District of the Ministry of Education and Science of the Pedagogical Educational Institution "Center for Additional Education for Children". Head of work: Bayanova I.V., teacher of additional education, MOU DOD "TsDOD". This work was presented in 2010 at the XV regional competition research works students of the Perm Territory (section "Crop production").

Then we plant the cuttings in a moist substrate. The substrate should be maintained high humidity which helps the cuttings to harden well. Shade and spray the planted cuttings up to 7 times a day and sometimes ventilate. As a rule, after a month, the stalk starts up roots and takes root well, and already in the fall a well-developed root system is formed and new shoots are formed. Now it can be planted on a permanent growth site.

Fresh manure should not be applied under phlox, various rot may occur. The land intended for planting phlox must first be fertilized. If the earth is clay, then a large river sand, gravel, wood ash, peat, compost.

Gardeners are attracted by this flower for its unpretentiousness. It takes root even on heavy, clayey, moisture-consuming soils. Easily propagated both by cuttings and dividing the bush.

The seed method is used when multiplying annual phlox and when breeding new varieties. The seed propagation process is quite simple. In autumn, before frost, the stems with almost ripe seed pods are cut off, until they crack (cracked pods scatter seeds on the sides with their open leaves). Cut boxes are lightly dried and placed in gauze or paper bags, which are hung in a dry, ventilated place. After a while, the seeds are collected, poured out of the capsules. Seeds freshly harvested in this way should be sown in the fall and sown in open ground or boxes 1.5 cm deep. Seed boxes are pre-filled with greenhouse soil 5 cm deep. After the snow falls, they are taken out with the sown seeds under the snow and left until spring. In the spring, the snow in the boxes will begin to melt, moistening the soil. The boxes are brought into a dark room, and when (after about 20 days) shoots appear, they are rearranged in a bright, warm place. Seedlings dive twice into the same dive boxes. The distance between the plants is left at the first pick of 3 cm, at the second - 5 cm. Boxes with phlox seedlings are kept in greenhouses or placed on a bed under a film. They are periodically ventilated. Before planting seedlings in the ground, it must be hardened by periodically removing the film or frame of the greenhouse. Phlox seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June, at a distance of 20x30 cm. If the seedlings are planted in loose, humus-rich soils, they develop rapidly, and the plants can bloom in the same year. Most lush bloom and phloxes reach color in the 2nd year of growth. Care is normal.

For the winter, boxes with cuttings are placed in cold greenhouses. When the ground is frozen, the greenhouses are covered with frames and dry leaves or some other insulating material are poured on top.

Reproduction by root suckers

After the cuttings are rooted and grow, they are watered 2-3 times in the summer with slurry or a solution of nitrogen mineral fertilizers (1/2 tablespoon of saltpeter or urea in a bucket of water).

On well-fertilized soils and with proper care (feeding, watering, loosening, mulching), phlox bushes can remain in one place for up to 10 years, however, in practice, the bushes are usually divided after 4-6 years, mainly due to the fact that very old bushes, flowers and inflorescences become very small.

Consequently, our hypothesis that phlox cuttings treated with growth stimulants before planting will take root better is fully confirmed. The use of honey and heteroauxin as biostimulants makes it possible to fully realize the potential of phlox inherent in the genome by nature and selection, as well as regulate the processes of survival, growth and development of cuttings, and improve the quality of grown plants.

The first stage of experiments is 2008. The prepared cuttings of phlox are immersed in water with their lower ends, in glassware - control.

In the second half of summer and autumn on the stems of phloxes are formed in the axils of the leaves side shoots, which are used for grafting, for which they are cut out or broken out with a "heel". If the shoots are very short (they have only 1-2 internodes), then they are planted as a whole, after cutting off the lower leaves. The tip of short shoots is not pinched, since its presence contributes to better rooting.

Phlox paniculata, or paniculata (Phlox raniculata L.) and its hybrids in terms of the variety of colors, the subtlety of the flower pattern, the splendor of the inflorescences, the pleasant peculiar smell, the duration of flowering can be attributed to the first-class ornamental plants. Its ability to reproduce well and quickly by stem and leaf cuttings, dividing bushes, as well as the relative simplicity of culture make paniculata phlox indispensable for floriculture.

Arctic, Thunderstorm, Sunrey, Yelenka, Yaroslavna, Svyatogor, Prince Igor, Inspiration.

In order to fertilize 1 square meter of soil, 7 kg of peat is required, about 300 grams wood ash about 5 kg of humus or compost. All components are thoroughly mixed, river sand or fine gravel, 30 grams of nitrophoska, 30 grams of potassium sulfate and the same amount of "Agricola-7" are added to them. Then the fertilized soil is dug up again. Phlox also like coniferous compost, although it is not available to everyone.

Phlox bushes must be divided every three years, otherwise the plantings thicken, the plant looks depressed, blooms worse and is more exposed to fungal diseases.

The article was prepared based on the materials of G.K. Tavlinova.

To protect the cuttings from damage by mice, spruce branches are laid on top of the boxes.

Seed propagation

Rooted cuttings of early cuttings in July-August are planted in a garden bed for growing.

Cuttings can be carried out in spring time and in the fall. First, special dive boxes are prepared and filled with nutrient soil as follows: a layer of nutrient soil 6 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of a clean box and a layer of clean sand 2 cm thick on top, cuttings are leveled and planted in rows.

eqqoalx.polysad.ru

The acquired knowledge is applied by us in practice - it is used to create the necessary conditions for successful reproduction by cuttings of phlox and other perennials. The results of this field study are used to grow planting material for the school grounds. This is very profitable, since no money is spent on the purchase of perennial seedlings. We raised ourselves required amount planting material for decorating our school beds.

Do you love phlox as much as I love them ?!)) I am sure that this unpretentious flower loved by many! Even if all the other flowers suddenly disappeared (it's good that this is almost impossible) and only phlox remained, and then ours would be decorated with bright colors from early spring to late autumn. Easy care, good winter hardiness, lush bloom and wonderful aroma - phloxes are good from all sides! Having grown several species for several years, I will share my practical experience and observations.

Other interesting articles about phlox:

Planting and breeding phlox

Root system

Before you start breeding phlox, it is useful to know what their root system is. What for? To choose the best landing spot for them. The plant is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate stagnant water in the soil layer, where the bulk of its roots is located. Phlox has many highly branching adventitious roots, evenly distributed around the main rhizome. These thin (2-3 mm) roots penetrate deep into the soil by a maximum of 20-22 cm. But the main root mass is located in the surface soil layer at a depth of 3-15 cm.

The conclusion is obvious: if the groundwater in your area is closer than 15 cm to the soil surface, with a simple planting, the roots will not receive enough oxygen and will die. And with them the flower itself. As the flower growers say - “the flower is soaked, fell out”. This can be avoided by planting phloxes on high beds where the necessary, but not excessive, level of moisture will be provided to their root system. The height of the garden bed or bed should not exceed 10-15 cm.

Important! Do not plant phlox near trees and shrubs with extensive shallow root systems! Plants will compete for light, moisture, nutrition and, without options, the strongest will win. But it will definitely not be phlox.

The soil

Phlox are strong, hardy plants with a large supply of vitality, can grow and bloom in a variety of soils. The maximum development and peak flowering was achieved on loose, moisture and air permeable, moderately moist and nutritious soil. Lowlands, where in the spring on long time water accumulates and stagnates, and in the fall a dense crust of ice forms - not a place for planting phlox.

sunlight

Phloxes prefer a sunny place or partial shade. They grow in a shaded place, but bloom sparsely and for a short time. In the sun, the inflorescences will be thicker and more luxuriant, in the shade they will be looser and paler, but the flowering will last 5-10 days longer. In the southern regions, shading at noon hours is desirable.

Boarding time

Phlox are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws, and early autumn, when growth buds are already laid. For middle lane In Russia, this is the end of April-May and the end of August-September. The stems of phlox planting in autumn should be cut from the top by a third of the length.

Reproduction of phlox

Perennial phlox species reproduce by seeds, stem and root cuttings, axillary buds and shoots (summer-autumn), dividing bushes. The characteristics of the variety are completely preserved in any type of reproduction, except for seed.

Phlox care

Top dressing

For the perfect effect of the species (uniform, powerful foliage of the bush, the maximum flower size, density and size of the inflorescence, the duration of the flowering time), constant feeding is needed throughout the growing season. That is, from the moment when the first bud wakes up, and until the leaves are completely shed.

Watering

The soil must be constantly moist. Regular (in the absence of rain) and loosening of the soil surface are required.

Shelter for the winter

In the absence of snow cover, growth buds will freeze in 2 weeks at -10-15 ° C, at -20-25 ° C the rhizome will die. Snow thickness of 50-60 cm will ensure successful wintering of phlox without shelter at -35 ° С.

Diseases and pests of phlox

Pests : wireworm, naked slug, earwig, stem nematode, drooling penny,. Plants weakened from lack of moisture and nutrition can be attacked by aphids.
Diseases : fommosis, septoria, powdery mildew.

Types of phlox

All types can be roughly divided into four groups.

First group : bush tall (90-180cm), blooming in summer and early autumn - Phlox maculata, Phlox paniculata, Phlox glaberrima and others.

Second group : bush, less tall (40-70cm), - blooming in the second half of spring and first half of summer - Phlox ovata, Phlox amoena, Phlox pilosa and others.

Third group : 25-35 cm high, transitional species, can refer to both bush and creeping. Blossom in the second half of spring and the first half of summer - Phlox stolonifera, Phlox divaricata.

Fourth group : creeping or ascending - Phlox douglasii, Phlox nivalis, Phlox subulata and others, height 5-15 cm, bloom in spring and in the first half of summer.

During the preparation of the article, mountains of literature and dozens of thematic forums were studied, information that did not correspond to reality from the point of view of practice was eliminated. I tried to leave the most important and necessary. If you have any questions - write. I would be glad if you also share your secrets in successfully growing phlox.

In this article, we will talk about the methods and techniques of phlox propagation, backing up with tips and valuable recommendations.

Reproduction of phlox by dividing the bush

It is better to start dividing and planting phlox rhizomes from mid-August, and end planting at the beginning of the second decade of September. When planted at these times, the plants have enough time to take root and overwinter well, and in early spring they immediately begin to actively grow.

The mother bushes are carefully dug in from all sides and removed from the soil. The excess earth is shaken off. After digging the plants, the stems are shortened by 1/3 - ½ of the height. When dividing the mother bushes, it is taken into account that, as a rule, 1-3 vegetative buds are formed at the base of the stem, from which shoots develop the next year. The standard cut of the rhizome in the first year of growth and development should have 7 - 8 shoots.

Divide the bushes with their hands and try to damage the small roots as little as possible. They rarely resort to using a knife. After shaking off the earth, the rhizomes are broken into large pieces. At each part, the roots are carefully straightened, trying not to break them off, then the parts are finally divided so that each part has a sufficient number of established vegetative buds. Parts of the rhizome without vegetative buds die. Usually, vegetative buds are not laid at the base of the stems developing in the central part of the rhizome, since the tissues of the stems are firmly lignified, which leads to their gradual withering away along with the root system. On young roots, vegetative buds are laid not only at the border of the root collar, but also at the very root. These buds grow in the spring of next year.

When dividing rhizomes, old lignified parts are removed along with dead and diseased roots. The peripheral part of the rhizome is more viable. With a sufficient amount of planting material, it is better to discard the central part of the rhizome. The rhizome divided into parts can dry out quickly, therefore, the uterine bushes are divided in a shaded place, and the delenki are added dropwise on a separate ridge. If the cuttings dry up, they are placed in water for 6 - 8 hours and planted. If the landing is postponed, then the delenki are added dropwise.

Reproduction of phlox by cuttings

Reproduction of phlox stem cuttings - simple and reliable way, allowing to multiply the most valuable varieties in a short period.

Well-developed shoots from healthy plants are used for cuttings. The best period for propagation by cuttings is May – June, when the developing stems are in a state of intensive growth and have not had time to lignify. Cuttings can be continued in July – August, but in this case, only the upper 2/3 of the shoot is used, since the lower part of the stem is already lignified by this time. Cuttings can be planted directly in open ground, in boxes with fertile soil, placed in partial shade or shaded, in cold greenhouses, nurseries, on specially prepared distribution ridges.

The stalk should be large enough with two internodes. When propagating very valuable varieties, cuttings of smaller sizes with one internode or leaf cuttings with one axillary bud with a leaf can be used. In this case, the cuttings are planted in a cooled or semi-warm greenhouse. With partial re-stuffing of the greenhouse, the intensity of root formation increases sharply and even a small leaf cutting after 15 - 20 days forms a rather powerful root system. When planting cuttings on a ridge or in a nursery, first the soil is loosened, then coarse river sand is poured in a layer of 3-4 cm. After leveling the surface, the soil is watered. If the soil is not fertile and compacted enough, then sand is poured onto the ridge with a layer of 5 cm with peat compost, humus and this mixture is mixed with the top 8 - 10 cm layer of soil. After that, sand is poured, slightly compacted and watered.

The harvested shoots are cut with a razor or sharpened knife into pieces, each of which should have two knots. The lower cut is made at the base of the leaves, retreating no more than 0.5 cm, the upper one - 1 cm above the base of the leaves. The lower pair of leaves is carefully cut off, and the upper one is shortened by 1/3.

When planting cuttings in May, when the stems are not strong enough, a dive peg is used. Sufficiently strong cuttings (when harvesting from the third decade of May) are planted without using a dive peg, which greatly increases labor productivity. With little effort, such a stalk easily overcomes the sand layer and enters the soil. With two fingers it is pressed against the handle. When using small leaf cuttings, they are pressed down with soil more carefully. Finishing the planting of the cuttings, the nursery, the greenhouse is watered abundantly, covered with a film, frames and the cuttings are shaded from direct sunlight. This creates a favorable microclimate.

On a hot sunny day, planting is sprayed 4 - 5 times, on a cloudy day - once. If irrigation is necessary in the post-planting period, warm (32 - 35 ° C) water is used, which accelerates the process of root formation. In 7 - 10 days after planting, a good callus is formed on the cuttings, and after 18 - 20 days the root system begins to develop. With the development of the root system, one or two upper axillary buds move into growth, subsequently developing into stems. When planting cuttings in a semi-warm greenhouse, callus is formed on the 5th-7th day, and on the 8th-10th day, roots begin to develop. The growth of the root system is much more intense. After 2-3 weeks after the start of regrowth of the roots, the plants begin to feed. For 10 liters of water take 25 - 30 g of potassium nitrate or 10 - 15 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate. It is better to combine the application of mineral fertilizers with the infusion of slurry (1 liter per 10 liters of water).

Phlox roots are able to lay and form vegetative buds. Buds form best on larger roots. TO propagation by root cuttings should be started early in the spring. The earth is shaken off the dug uterine bush, the thickest and longest roots are cut out at the base with a sharpened knife. Thin roots are not used for grafting. No more than two-thirds of the main roots are cut from each bush. The harvested roots of each variety are labeled, cut into pieces 3 - 5 cm long and placed obliquely in distribution boxes, sprinkling with structural nutrient earth. When laying out the root cuttings, the polarity is observed, that is, the thicker part of the cuttings should be at the top. Above root cuttings sprinkle with coarse sand with a layer of 3-4 cm and watered. Boxes with cuttings are placed in a greenhouse or greenhouse for 7 - 10 days at a temperature of 10 - 15 ° C, covered from direct sunlight. After 8 - 10 days, the air temperature is raised to 18 - 22 ° C. When shoots begin to develop from the buds formed, the shading is removed. Plants are watered and planted in the summer on specially prepared ridges in open ground. They are planted selectively, since the laying, formation and development of vegetative buds are uneven. Often at least 40% of root cuttings do not lay vegetative buds and die.

Foreign growers resort to the propagation of phlox by root cuttings when certain varieties are infected with stem nematodes, which makes it possible to get rid of them.

Agrotechnics for growing phlox

27.03.2012

I was amused when one florist said that he did not understand what to talk about at a lecture about phlox agricultural technology. "Everything is so simple and straightforward!" I once thought the same way. But, having gained many years of growing experience, I can talk about the peculiarities of phlox agricultural technology infinitely much. And I well understand that over time I will learn even more about this wonderful plant.

Very often you can hear that paniculate phloxes are easy to care for and do not require any special growing conditions and this is one of the most unpretentious garden crops. Phlox is one of the first to be included in the list of plants of the so-called "weekend flower garden" - i.e. low-maintenance. To a large extent, this opinion is correct. Phloxes are distinguished by increased endurance, excellent adaptability to changing growing conditions, winter hardiness and frost resistance, longevity and a high degree of growth and reproduction, both vegetative and by seed method... However, more experienced phlox experts believe that some phloxes are much more capricious ("Dragon", "Flame" (Popova), "My Love My Joy", "Twilight", " Ural Tales"," Sirius "," Favorite of Gaganova "," Slavyanka ", etc.) than, for example, old varieties tested by time or the so-called park-landscape phlox. Having sufficient personal experience (more than 17 years of collecting phlox) I can say that this opinion is partly true. Almost in any garden culture it is customary to approach the requirements of different varieties individually, which is why the experience and advice of collectors, through whose hands many cultivars have been tested, are so appreciated. Phloxes are also no exception to this rule.

Most of the domestic varieties and seedlings appeared in amateur gardens, for whom the most important criterion for assessing phlox is the uniqueness of the color of the flower and its size, and not resistance to diseases, weather conditions and unpretentiousness in cultivation and maintenance. One of the main tasks of modern breeding is to ensure that Russian phloxes are not only extremely beautiful, but are distinguished by increased endurance, which would minimize complex agrotechnical techniques, such as the obligatory garter to the supports, treatment against diseases and pests, the frequency of additional watering, and even a decrease in organic and mineral fertilizing.

But this approach will require much more complex selection than just culling similar and nondescript seedlings. Seedlings of amateur selection, capricious, but unique in color and shape, will appear and spread, and it is unlikely that this will be avoided. It is about this practice that the entire world selection speaks. It often happens that unusual and unique in color, shape and size, but whimsical in the care and maintenance of garden plants, novelties, and only over time, breeders "refine" the varieties and release more reliable and unpretentious cultivars based on varieties - "pioneers ". Therefore, those phlox breeders who set themselves the goal of collecting a collection of beautiful, rare, exceptional, but capricious phloxes need to carefully study all the subtleties of agricultural technology, so that the collection brings not only the joy of owning outstanding varieties, but also delivers true pleasure from contemplation of beauty. In addition, competent care will allow you to fully explore the potential of your new seedlings, competently prepare them for exhibitions so that they show their varietal advantages in all their glory. After all, testing for endurance in conditions with maximum comfort (rich garden soil, regular watering, etc.) is no less important than testing in conditions with minimal maintenance. Some phloxes begin to be capricious in a well-groomed flower garden, although in "Spartan" conditions they feel much better and thrive there for many years, without requiring any attention to themselves.

Florists acquire varietal phloxes in various places - in nurseries, garden centers, from private traders. The best way to get a strong and healthy plant is to buy a young seedling with a closed root system (in a pot) in a growing and even flowering state during the active growing season of outdoor garden plants.

The so-called "winter and early-spring acquisitions" of planting material (phlox rhizomes or grown-ups in ZKS) often become a problem for beginners, since they require overexposure either in the refrigerator at temperatures from 0 to -1 degrees, or in greenhouses with the conditions " cold start ", i.e. when the night and daytime air temperatures are different. V indoor conditions with the same warm temperature day and night, with a short daylight hours, it is rarely possible to maintain planting material alive and well before disembarking in open ground. Moreover, such plants in the future are difficult and long to adapt in the garden. Therefore, if you do not have the experience, time and desire to deal with troublesome winter-spring overexposure, then purchase new phloxes in the season - spring, summer, autumn, when open field plants are in the growing season and phloxes can be planted in open ground immediately after purchase ...

If you order phlox by mail, then negotiate with the supplier the time of receipt of the plants at a time when the phlox are in adequate condition for favorable landing in your garden and in your mailbox. The best time to send phlox by mail is the moment when the buds of the next season renewal will ripen well in the seedlings, i.e. - late summer - autumn (from August 15 to early November)

A share of phlox with well-ripened buds of renewal:

It should be noted that phloxes of late flowering dates are best obtained later, because their buds of renewal can ripen not earlier than the middle of autumn. ("Evening Song", "Vladimir", "Hochgesang", "Miss Holland", etc.). For rhizomes without a ground part, which are in a dormant state, the late dates of planting in open ground are not significant, therefore, flower growers of the northern regions should not rush traders to send rhizomes with unripe renewal buds out of fear that phloxes will not have time to take root and do not overwinter well in their area ... Mailing phloxes in the spring is not the best option, since phloxes are already in a state of active growth and can simply rot within a few days, being in the parcel box. An exception to this rule is the sending of rhizomes in spring, which are still in a dormant state, but unfortunately, phloxes start growing very early and the terms of such postage are very short - no more than 10-14 days. A delay in sending the parcel of only 3-4 days can end in failure. In autumn, the terms of such shipments are increased to 3 months.

As a rule, newly acquired varietal phloxes of our domestic selection are of two methods of vegetative propagation: divisions from adult bushes or young seedlings obtained by cuttings. The microclonal method of reproduction, which is widespread abroad, has not yet been mastered in our country and is rarely used and in exceptional cases. However, although this method is progressive, it has a number of significant disadvantages. For example, not all varieties can with a 100% guarantee transfer their unique traits during micropropagation, and this issue still needs to be worked out. And if you want to guaranteed to get a pure-grade planting material, then the best option is to purchase young phlox obtained by the method of cuttings, which has been practiced for a very long time and even in the book of P.G. Gaganov it is said that rooted 1- 2 summer stem cuttings. Ideally, this should be a plant of the second year of development of a cutting that has undergone wintering..

Young phlox of the second year of development, propagated by the method of summer cuttings:

Depletions from adult shrubs are also a standard planting material, but provided that the bush is not weakened by various diseases that it acquires during its life.

Photos of adult bushes of summer division and phlox divisions:

A photo of a division in one branch with a dry last year's shoot, which it is desirable to remove, otherwise, when it decays near young plant problems associated with fungal diseases may appear. If it is impossible to remove the old stump, then the root system must be treated with a fungicide to etch the planting material from rot. For example, "Maxim", "Vitaros", etc. drugs:

Unfortunately, completely healthy phlox bushes in large and old collections are not as common as we would like. Sometimes unscrupulous traders begin to divide phlox only at the moment when the plants begin to age and bloom worse due to any diseases, including hidden nature... Young seedlings propagated by cuttings practically do not have such problems, on the contrary, they have a renewed strong immune system and are able to live longer in the same place, actively developing and resisting various diseases, including viral ones. That is why experienced phlox growers prefer to renew varietal phlox by cuttings rather than dividing old bushes. There is even such an expression among experienced collectors - "to transfer phlox to new roots", since most often it is in the rhizome that various plant problems accumulate over the years.

In this regard, I want to say a few words about the widespread opinion in narrow circles of "venerable" phlox growers that phlox propagated by cuttings do not always convey varietal characteristics if the time is unsuccessful or the wrong part of the shoot is taken for reproduction or the age of the phlox less than 3 years. Such ignorant statements simply cannot be taken seriously by any person with an education and capable of studying biology and botany at least superficially. For myself, I definitely made such a logical conclusion. Rumors are spread by those traders who are simply too lazy to reproduce phlox by cuttings, it is labor-intensive and time-consuming. It is easier for the ignorant to divide old bushes for sale and spread ridiculous rumors, trying to remove more advanced competitors from the market.

If you have no choice and want to buy cuttings from adult phlox bushes, pay attention to the condition of not only flowers, leaves and roots, but also the quality of the stems in their lower part. If they have signs of phomosis, then it is better to refuse the purchase. This disease is difficult to treat and, as a rule, such plants are infected not only with a fungal infection, but also with a nematode, which is even more difficult to get rid of.

Photos of phlox shoots with signs of phomosis infection:

Phomosis should not be confused with such a physiological phenomenon as stem cracking, which is an unpleasant varietal feature of some varieties. Fortunately, there are very few such varieties. Here are some pictures of stalk cracking for comparison:

So, in order to grow the most decorative and luxurious phlox bushes, it is necessary to make a lot of efforts to comply with correct and competent agricultural technology. However, the healthy appearance, lush flowering and longevity of any garden plant depends on a combination of factors that may vary depending on the specific conditions of a particular garden. Only after studying the microclimate features of your particular site can you understand what needs to be done in order for phlox to feel as comfortable as possible in this particular place.

Let's start by planting plants... The basis of phlox wellness over several years of growing depends on where, how and in what soil it is planted. Varietal paniculate phloxes differ significantly in appearance from their wild relatives, but their preferences in conditions of successful and healthy growth remained the same. Wild plants from North America are moisture-loving and usually grow in damp places, in the floodplains of rivers in wet meadows among shrubs and small forests, in wet glades rich in humus and humus on the forest floor. The same needs are for varietal phlox. They love regular, abundant watering at the root, sunny or lightly shaded planting site in organic-rich soil. Be sure to take this into account when choosing a phlox planting site or create such conditions artificially.

Phloxes belong to garden plants with intensive growth and development. As a rule, for 4-5 years of growth, the soil under an adult bush is greatly depleted. Therefore, the planting site must be carefully prepared in order for the plant to feel comfortable for several years. And one more important point in choosing a landing site. You should not plant phlox where they have been growing for several years. Many experts in the field of soil science argue that the need for certain useful substances in each garden culture is individual and the plant makes the most of them throughout its life, depleting the soil at the planting site. In addition, very often the earth in such a place manages to accumulate a complex of fungal, bacterial and even viral diseases characteristic only of a particular culture. The practice of experienced florists confirms this theory. Often you can hear stories from them about how phloxes were different in the first few years. increased decorativeness and health on fresh soils, even without the introduction of additional organic and mineral fertilizers. But the repeated planting of phlox in the same place was unsuccessful, phlox grew and developed problematically, were more often affected by various diseases and hibernated worse. For this reason, it is necessary to constantly alternate and change different crops in the garden according to the principle of "crop rotation".

Where and on what soils phlox grow and develop best of all, much has been written in specialized literature. I will not talk about this in detail, I will only say that any cultivated garden soil is suitable for the successful cultivation of paniculate phlox... Moreover, over the years and experience comes an understanding of where and in what place in your garden phloxes will feel best. Surprisingly, the same variety in different planting places in one garden can change greatly in appearance and only the florist himself decides where exactly this or that variety looks as decorative as possible and not always such a successful planting site can be calculated only theoretically.

For beginners, I will say that when choosing a flower garden for phlox, be guided by the fact that it is convenient for regular watering - phlox hygrophilous culture... Moreover, high humidity air is no less important than soil moisture. However, this does not mean that phlox should be planted in places with constantly damp and wet soil. As a rule, the best places with a certain humid microclimate, but without stagnant water, are in a light openwork shade from tall trees and shrubs. This is especially important for varieties with flowers prone to fading (I.S.Bach, Zhar Bird, Moskovskaya Skazka, Isabel, etc.). In open places, phlox grow well and develop only under the condition of mandatory watering in hot and dry weather. Unlike many horticultural crops, phlox grow well on soils with a close occurrence of groundwater, but you should avoid those places where melt and rainwater stagnate for a long time.

Phlox get along well with many plants in the garden., are inferior only in competition with trees and shrubs with a powerful superficial root system, for example, birch, spruce, turf, lilac, clematis, etc. In any case, if you notice that the phlox is not developing as actively as it should be, try to find a new landing site for it. Moreover, do not transplant the entire bush to a new place, but plant only a young cut from it or a grafted seedling. Adult shrubs are not able to adapt to changing growing conditions to the proper extent and can significantly worsen their condition and even die. For example, transplanted 3-4-year-old bushes tolerate wintering worse than young ones. Therefore, try to rejuvenate phlox more often, young plants are more plastic and quickly adapt to new conditions. This rule applies not only to capricious varieties.

Caring for young, adult and old phlox bushes is different and requires an individual approach.... Often this important point is not mentioned in general conditions leaving. And, nevertheless, for a young healthy plant of the first year, just correct competent planting and regular watering during the first season are enough, any feeding and mulching are excluded. This is especially important for those beginners who “sin” with excessive care and can literally feed young plantings with fertilizers to death. It should be well understood that it is necessary to use any fertilizers only when the plant shows active growth and development. It is under such conditions that phlox adequately responds to feeding and its appearance it just gets better. If the seedling did not manage to root well and independently go into active growth in a new place, you should not "spur" it artificially, the use of fertilizers at the time of adaptation to new conditions can lead to negative consequences and even death.

Typical mistakes and misconceptions that inexperienced phlox growers often make when faced with the study of newfangled garden chemicals. The modern market offers many means for artificially stimulating the growth and development of plants. Such drugs as Epin, Zircon, Ribav, HB-101, Agat-25, Energen, Athlete, etc. certainly help plants, but only on condition that the plant is healthy and needs an incentive to develop more actively. Moreover, it is imperative to create conditions for the further successful growth of a plant treated with stimulants, and not to condemn it to "death by starvation with increased appetite." And no matter how much you treat your phlox with the latest preparations on poor and depleted soils, there will be no sense from them. Taking into account my personal experience, I will say that you can easily do without any artificial stimulants, just by observing competent agricultural techniques. Remember that healthy soil with a high content of organic matter, mineral fertilizers and microelements cannot be replaced by any super-energetic or biostimulant. Unfortunately, often beginners are mistaken about this and do not understand some of the subtleties and nuances of the problem, stuffing plants with those "magic" means that so temptingly promise super-results from their use. For example, diseased plants do not always respond adequately to treatment with energy drinks. Often the reaction is negative, and therefore be sure to take into account that a diseased plant must first be cured and only then it can be stimulated to active development.

I would also like to say about the use of organic and mineral fertilizers... Often, inexperienced growers try to achieve lush flowering, actively using only mineral fertilizers, and make a serious mistake. On poor, depleted soils for the successful growth and development of phlox, it is impossible to do only with mineral fertilizers, no matter how good they are. And if they are also used in higher doses, then this only leads to negative results. For the successful prosperity of phlox, one "mineral water" is not enough, it must be used in combination with organic matter. Organic fertilizers have a multifaceted agronomic effect on soil properties. With systematic application, organics improve physicochemical properties soil, its water and air modes, the vital activity of beneficial microorganisms is activated, without which it is impossible to grow healthy plants. Moreover, the use of organic matter allows you to apply mineral fertilizers in large doses and get high results. Constantly use well-rotted manure, matured compost, black low-lying peat with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, bird droppings, leaf and green manure (green) humus, etc. to enrich the soil in the garden. organic fertilizers.

Planting a young phlox with ZKS can be carried out almost at any time of the season. Phlox with an open root system is best done in spring, late summer or autumn. In a flower garden with long and constantly cultivated soils, it is enough to dig a planting hole of a slightly larger root system of a young seedling and add mineral fertilizer, organic matter and ash there. On fresh and depleted soils, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work with complete removal of weeds, digging and the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers around the entire perimeter of the flower garden. The rates and doses of fertilization are calculated individually for each site and depend on the composition of the soil. Do not forget about the general rule in floriculture: heavy clay soils must be additionally enriched with loosening materials, and clay is added to light sandy soils. The ideal soil acidity for phlox is neutral or slightly acidic (pH 5.5-7). It is generally accepted that phlox grow and develop worse on alkaline soils.

If phlox are planted in rows, then the standard distance from one bush to another is 40-50cm.

An example of the layout of an amateur flower garden for planting phloxes with wooden pegs and designation of the landing site:

A planting pit for phlox is prepared as follows: dig a hole 25-30 cm deep and with a diameter exceeding the volume of the root ball of a young seedling. Ash (2-3 heaped tablespoons), complex mineral fertilizer, depending on the season (for example, in the spring - "Kemira-Universal. Spring", in the summer - "Kemira-Universal. Summer", in the fall - "Kemira-Universal. . Autumn ") in the doses recommended on the package and organic fertilizer in solid and well-decomposed state:

The proportion of organic matter should be from a quarter to half of the composition of the soil mixture, depending on the condition of the soil and the quality of the organic matter itself. Mineral fertilizer, ash, organic matter and part of the soil removed from the hole are thoroughly mixed. The most convenient way to do this is in the landing hole itself. Then, the soil mixture is again taken out of the hole, a small mound is made from the same soil mixture inside it, and a seedling is placed on it, which is tied to the support after "fitting". The root collar is deepened by 4-6 cm - so that the renewal buds that are higher on the stem are necessarily underground at a depth of at least 3 cm. The spread root system is carefully covered with soil mixture, tamped tightly so that there is a shallow hole around the seedling. Water abundantly immediately and if the weather is dry, then in the next 3-4 days every day, depending on the health of the seedling.

Stages of planting a young phlox seedling:

If the seedling is obtained with washed roots or severely damaged root system, then it should be planted on a sandy "pillow" inside the hole, since its root system is in a certain stressful situation and sand in this case will help a softer adaptation to new growing conditions. Phlox rhizomes without the ground part, obtained in late autumn, can be kept in a trench until spring.

Starting from the second year of life in a new place, young phlox begin to be fed and mulched every year.... Doses of applied fertilizers depend on the growth rate and development of phlox. The more intense they are, the larger doses are required for the well-being, health and full flowering of the plant. There are various ways to feed phlox. After many years of experimenting for my phloxes, I chose the following method. In late autumn, after cutting off the stems, I mulch mature bushes with abundant mulch with well-decomposed manure or compost, under which I sprinkle complex mineral fertilizer for garden flowers and ash. In the spring, as soon as young shoots grow to a height of 10-15 cm, I spend foliar feeding urea - 20 g per 10 liters of water. Before flowering, at the moment when the first buds begin to appear on the shoots, I again mulch the soil under the bush with organic matter, under which I sprinkle ash and complete mineral fertilizer for flowers, for example, “Kemira-Universal. Flower ". During the flowering period, I do not feed phlox, but only water it abundantly at the root. At the end of flowering, I water the phlox with a solution of superphosphate and ash (20 g of double superphosphate and a glass of ash for 10 liters of water).

Autumn pruning of phlox bushes is an important agricultural technique, which will avoid some of the problems associated with disease and care. Often, amateurs leave stumps of old stems 10-20 cm in height, or even do not cut off old shoots of phlox in autumn, believing that the "tops" contribute to the retention of snow and phlox for this reason will not freeze in a snowless winter. I cut phlox very shortly - almost flush with the ground.

Let me explain why I cut short phlox shoots:

At first, the maximum number of spores accumulates on last year's shoots fungal diseases, pests overwinter between dry shoots. It is at an altitude of 10-20 cm that all these "byaks" are more comfortable to winter without freezing - this is the minimum level of snow in an ordinary winter.
Secondly, the remaining shoots interfere with the autumn treatment with fungicides for preventive purposes and mulching with organic matter, which phloxes of summer-autumn flowering are very fond of. In natural conditions, the leaves and tops of the phlox and neighboring plants themselves serve as a natural organic autumn mulch. In the garden, varietal phlox-sissies need more careful care and a respectable look so that they show themselves in all their glory and delight us with their healthy appearance at any time of the season.

Autumn mulching is also necessary for phlox for a more successful wintering and a "nourishing" start in spring. A normal physiological phenomenon for paniculate phlox is the growth of rhizomes upward, in which not only the roots are exposed, but also the buds of renewal. And, in order to protect them from freezing, it is not enough to leave hemp shoots in order to retain snow. A striking example. In the frosty, snowless winter of 2002-2003, not a single phlox died in my collection! Whereas many phlox growers, who did not cut low phloxes and mulch them in the fall, complained that they had lost part of their collection of varietal phloxes. That year, as usual, I cut short phloxes and mulched them with a thick layer of well-rotted manure and peat.
Thirdly, aesthetic aspect. It is much more pleasant to watch the awakening of young shoots of phlox, which are not interfered with by last year's dry "crutches", which, breaking, can damage fragile spring shoots.
Photos of phloxes in early spring, which were cropped later in the fall and mulched:

And I will add more. Sometimes growers do not cut phlox shortly, referring to the fact that renewal buds are formed in the lower part of the shoots at a height of 2-4 cm, which can overwinter under favorable weather conditions. According to my observations, I will say that from these shoots, as a rule, weaker or Blind shoots and their flowering is less abundant than those that were underground in the soil. In addition, they can interfere with the development of stronger shoots, which will also affect the abundance of flowering of the bush as a whole. It makes sense to leave such renewal buds in the event that a large amount of planting material is needed for cuttings.

"Blind" shoots in the phlox bush:

Varietal paniculate phlox is traditionally grown tied to supports... Exceptions are gardens and flower gardens in the style of "nature garden", where in companions to phlox plants must be selected, which in a dense planting will support each other, otherwise, with strong winds and heavy downpours, phloxes will fall, breaking shoots and inflorescences. Massive homogeneous plantings of phloxes also contribute to the fact that phloxes serve as support for each other.

With strong winds and heavy downpours, phloxes will fall, breaking shoots and inflorescences, if they are not tied up:

Phloxes in front flower beds require more careful care and in order for the inflorescences to be more powerful, the bush itself is stronger and its overall decorative effect has increased, at the moment of tying the first buds, the bush is thinned out from weak, blind and uneven shoots. The lower leaves are also removed, since by this moment they lose their decorative effect - new foliage that has grown higher blocks the light and they begin to dry out naturally. In addition, old leaves will interfere with better watering at the root and fungal diseases first of all appear on them.

Top dressing with full complex fertilizer, ash and mulching with organic matter before flowering is the best incentive for abundant flowering... Mineral fertilizer and ash are scattered under the base of the bush and around its perimeter:

The bush is watered abundantly, but so that the mulch is not washed off with a strong stream of water.

I will add. The timing autumn pruning phlox in the suburbs - after October 15. It is possible a little earlier, but this period is optimal. Autumn mulching of cut phlox bushes should be carried out ONLY after October 15, not earlier! It is possible even later - on frozen soil, but this is not very convenient, and it is also unpleasant to mess with organic matter in the cold. Earlier mulching (before October 15) can trigger the growth of dormant buds. However, this is not fatal for phlox, but the plant will definitely be slightly weaker from the fact that the awakened shoots will grow and then their tops will freeze.

Photo and text provided for placement by N. Konstantinova