How does the house lily reproduce. Reproduction by axillary buds of a lily in moss

The need for transplanting lilies depends on the variety, the "age" of the plant and the period of its flowering. But for all the rich species diversity these flowers are general recommendations to care for and keep them healthy.

The genus Lily unites more than 110 species perennials distributed mainly in Europe and Asia. In our gardens, the lily is loved for the variety of colors and shape of the flower. As a rule, lilies develop well on light soil, with a small admixture of sand. In one place, they grow up to 5 years, and then the bulbs grow into colonies, become smaller, and the plants bloom worse. That is why lilies need regular division and transplantation.

Five years after planting, lily flowers turn pale and droop.

When to transplant lilies

The most optimal time for planting and transplanting lilies in the garden of the middle zone is August-September, in the southern regions - until mid-October. In any case, you need to "disturb" the lilies after flowering (which is why September is considered the ideal month for transplanting).

Immediately after flowering, the lily should be cut off the flowers so that the plants do not spend nutrients for seed formation

Is it possible to transplant lilies in summer (in July)

In July, only some varieties with a special vegetative cycle can be transplanted. Basically, these are Candidias, which have a dormant period in July-August, so it is better to transplant them in these months. Asian hybrids calmly tolerate a transplant at any time of the year. The main thing during a summer transplant is not to damage the roots.

If the lilies have faded early, they can be transplanted in the summer

Is it possible to transplant lilies during flowering

In most cases, this is a risky event that harms the plant. It is believed that only Asian lilies can be transplanted during flowering, which bloom early and are generally considered one of the hardiest. In particular, varieties can be transplanted during flowering. Aelita, Yeti, Lady Jane, Iowa Rose,Montreux, Pearl Jennifer, Pearl Justin, Red Velvet, pink haze, Sweet Surrender, White Twinkle.

How often should lilies be repotted?

For the full development of lilies, they need to be dug up and transplanted every 3-4 years. Asiatic varieties and tubular lilies (varieties In memory of Zalivsky,Lorina, Pink Perfection, Snow Queen etc.) you need to change your "place of residence" every year.

You can also plant lilies near the southern walls

Lilies should be transplanted to a new, sunny place without stagnant water. In partial shade, they will also grow, but with paler flowers.

Reproduction of lilies by division and children

Lilies can be propagated in several ways. The simplest and most popular is dividing bulb nests. This method is based on the natural development of lilies, in which an adult "mother" bulb annually forms daughter bulbs with new roots and stems. They are used to grow new plants.

The bulbous nest begins to be divided 3-4 years after planting, when at least 4-6 bulbs have formed on it. Optimal time for work comes a month after flowering. If you start dividing earlier, when the bulbs are weakened, lost weight and wilted, the plants may not take root.

How to properly propagate bulbs division:

Carefully dig out the adult bush without damaging the bulbs and perennial roots. If you seriously damage the root system, the transplanted lilies may not bloom next year;

lay the bulbous nest on the ground and separate the child bulbs and small children. You should have 2-3 fused large bulbs in your hands, from which the stems stretch upward. There should be as many bulbs as there are stems;

trim the stems of the lilies, leaving small stumps. Peel the roots from the ground and carefully divide the nest into individual bulbs. This can be done by hand, without special tools;

inspect each lily for signs of damage, rot, disease, and dark areas. In healthy bulbs, the scales are white with a pinkish tint, without any spots;

This is what damaged lily bulbs look like

using a secateurs, remove dead and rotten roots, and cut healthy ones to 15-20 cm;

sort planting material and select bulbs of approximately the same size. Place the bulbs intended for planting in a dark place and cover with a damp cloth, which should be regularly moistened with water;
do not rush to throw away bulbs rejected for a "clean" planting. Try pickling them in a 0.2-0.4% solution of Maxim for several hours, then dry and plant separately from the rest;

plant bulbs on a favorable day, focusing on the lunar calendar.

Reproduction of lilies by children

When digging up lilies, you can find small bulbs 1 cm in diameter that form at the base of the stems. During the season, up to 10 such children are formed in the underground part. Over time, if they are not removed, they grow and form a bulbous nest with a "mother" bulb.

There are two ways to separate the babies from the mother bulb:

when digging and dividing nests in September;
raking the earth from the base of the roots and sieving it.

Children are planted in shkolki - pre-prepared beds with fertile soil, protected from wind, rain and snow. Plant them at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other to a depth of 4-5 cm.

The children planted in September by the next season will give stems up to 25 cm high, but they will not be able to bloom. After the second wintering, 1-2 buds may appear on the plant, they should be removed so that the plant gets stronger. In full force, the lily blooms only in the third year.

Reproduction by children can be carried out in April-May. Until spring, they should be stored in a cellar or refrigerator.

If you are interested in this method of breeding lilies, then know that the formation of children can be stimulated. To do this, separate the flowering stems and bury them in sand or light soil, leaving only the top on the surface. Remove leaves and buds. By autumn, onion-babies will appear in the axils of the leaves of the buried stem.

Reproduction of lilies with scales

This method allows you to get the largest amount of planting material. Up to 20 scales are obtained from one bulb, and up to 2-5 bulbs are formed on each of them for reproduction.

Planting material can be prepared all year round, but it is best to do this in early May.

There are two ways of reproduction of lilies with scales.

The first way is with digging up the bulbs. Rinse the bulbs removed from the ground and carefully separate the scales from the base. If you want to save the bulb itself for further reproduction, then leave at least half of the scales on the bottom. For breeding, select only the healthiest and cleanest scales:

rinse them thoroughly with water;
immerse for 20 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate;
treat with a growth stimulator (Kornevin, Epin);
place the scales of the bulbs in a bag with wet sawdust or moss and tie it;
hide the bag in a warm and dark place;
after 6-8 weeks, small bulbs form at the base of the scales, which must be separated and planted in open ground or boxes.

The second way is without digging the bulbs. When using this method, carefully rake the soil away from the plant without touching the roots. Then carefully separate the scales from the base of the bulbs. For disinfection, rinse the material for 20 minutes in a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution and treat with a growth regulator. Then roll the scales in crushed charcoal and place in a clean plastic bag with a mixture of calcined sand and peat. Tie up an air-filled bag and place in a dark place at room temperature. After 6-8 weeks, bulbs with roots appear on the scales, which are planted in a school for growing.

Reproduction of lilies by cuttings

It's pretty original and non-standard way, proving that lilies can be propagated using any of their parts. In particular, leaves with parts of the stem, segments of the stem with a dormant bud, and just individual leaves are selected. General principle breeding looks like this:

cuttings for planting are taken after flowering. However, for better rooting, you can take cuttings and leaves during the budding period;
the upper part of the massive stem is divided into equal parts with 5-7 leaves;
on every division lower leaves removed, leaving only 2-3 top sheets;
prepared leaves and cuttings are kept in any growth stimulant for 8-12 hours;
planting material is planted in a fertile substrate with good drainage;
cuttings and leaves are deepened by half their length, setting at a slight angle (45-60 degrees);
then the cuttings are watered and covered with cellophane film or glass jars;
plantings are ventilated daily, removing shelter for 30-40 minutes. Each time they turn the bag inside out or change it to a new one. The jar is wiped dry daily;
after 1-2 months, baby bulbs will appear on the areas of leaves and stems located in the ground, which give roots and let out leaves. They can be separated and transplanted into separate growing containers;
in spring, young onions appear on the stems and leaves, which can be planted in open ground.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs

Lilies can also be propagated by "semi-bulbs" - the so-called bulbs. This is the safest way for the plant to grow. Bulbs are formed in the axils of the leaves and on the stem during flowering. Sometimes their number can reach several dozen, but they form only on lilies of certain varieties (they are also called "bulb-bearing"), such as Aelita, Kalinka, pink haze. It is quite simple to determine that the bulb is ready for transplantation - it is easily separated from the stem, and small roots and leaves are already visible on it.

It is necessary to collect bulbs almost immediately after flowering, because then they fall off, germinate and begin to clog the flower garden. This usually happens in August-September, so they can be planted almost immediately. If you want to plant the bulbils in the spring, then hide them in the refrigerator, sprinkled with dry sand or sawdust, and store at a temperature of 3-5 ° C.

Before the autumn planting of lily bulbs, it is also desirable to stratify in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of 3-4°C.

Sprouted bulbs can be sown immediately in open ground or in containers to a depth of 2-3 cm, keeping a distance of 4-5 cm between them. Planted bulbs must be watered, mulched with peat chips or leaf humus. A high-quality substrate is prepared from coconut fiber, biohumus and washed coarse sand. To do this, mix 2 parts of biohumus with 4 parts of coconut fiber and 1 part of sand.

For the winter, it is advisable to cover the bulbs with spruce branches or straw. Although there are cases when they endured frosts down to -30 ° C without any shelter, it is better to play it safe.

Shoots of lilies appear next spring. Young plants are still very vulnerable, and they need to be regularly watered, weeded and fed (for example, with ammonium nitrate or urea at the rate of 2 tbsp per 1 sq.m of area).

Flowering occurs the next year, but it is better to remove the buds - let the one-year-old plants get stronger. But in the third year, the flowers will bloom in full force and delight the eye with bright colors.

What stimulates bulb growth:

most often, bulbs appear on young lilies;
compliance with agricultural practices and proper care contribute to the formation of air bulbs;
wet summer favors the growth of bulbs;
removal of buds (decapitation) provokes the growth of buds in the axils of the stem and leaves;

Reproduction of lilies by seeds

This method can be considered only as an experimental one. Flowering in this case occurs only for 5-7 years, while the plants may not survive, and they inherit varietal characteristics only to a small extent. The general landing algorithm looks like this:

sow seeds in containers with drainage in February-March. Prepare the substrate from a mixture of leaf and sod land, humus and coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 0.5;
use a 3-5 cm layer of expanded clay or gravel as drainage;
after 15-20 days, the first shoots appear;
in the phase of one true leaf, pick the seedlings into large containers according to the 5 × 5 cm scheme;
until winter, keep the pots in a warm place with room temperature, periodically watering and loosening the ground;
for the winter, put the box in a cellar with a temperature of 4-6 ° C, and in the spring transplant the seedlings to permanent place.

Planting lilies in open ground (rules and planting scheme)

Before planting seedlings in open ground, meticulously choose a place for their cultivation. It should be sunny (in the worst case, located in partial shade) and protected from the wind. Dig up the soil and remove the remnants of the roots of other plants. If necessary, get rid of weeds and too tall, but already withered and old plants. Otherwise, they will create a shadow that will prevent the lilies from growing.

Algorithm for planting lilies in open ground:

before planting, dip each bulb in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol for 20 minutes, and then in a growth stimulator for 45-60 minutes;
remove dead scales and shorten the roots to 5 cm;
for each plant, dig a hole, the depth of which is equal to three times the diameter of the bulb;
planting interval also depends on the variety and amount of planting material. Leave a margin of 15-20 cm between lilies of undersized varieties, and 25-30 cm between tall ones.

But what happens to bulbs planted shallowly is that stem roots appear on them.

You can plant lilies according to one of three schemes:

single line (tape)- maintain a distance between lilies of 5-15 cm in one row and 50 cm between the "lines";
two-line (for medium-sized lilies)- leave 15-25 cm between the bulbs, 25 cm between the lines, and 70 cm between adjacent ribbons (consisting of two lines);
three-line (for undersized lilies)- between bulbs 10-15 cm, between lines - 25 cm, between ribbons - 70 cm each.

What to plant next to lilies

The following plants are best combined with lilies:

azalea;
aster;
beetroot;
geykhera;
carnation;
geranium;
dahlias;
bell;
kosmeya;
Snapdragon;
poppies;
narcissus;
marigold;
snowdrops;
primrose;
roses;
nigella (nigella);
violet;
fuchsia;
zinnia.

The selected plant-neighbor in any case should belong to low- or medium-sized varieties.

The best varieties of lilies

A huge number of varieties of lilies are known and it is not easy to determine the best of them in all respects. We highlight only some of the most popular and well-known varieties.

Anastasia(Anastasia) - hybrid variety of lilies with pale pink petals and twisted, wavy edges. In cold weather, the flowers become even brighter. Plant height - 90-120 cm.

Black beauty (Black Beauty)- the flowers of these unusual lilies seem to always droop. More than a dozen flowers bloom on each inflorescence. It is enough to cut just one branch to get a luxurious bouquet. The variety is hybrid, winter-hardy, the stems grow up to 190 cm.

Citronella(citronella)- a bright yellow beauty from the group of tiger lilies will decorate any garden. The petals are strewn with cherry specks. blooms Citronella, unfortunately, not for long, but exudes a pleasant aroma and is very resistant to various adverse conditions.

Excelsior(Excelsior)- oriental hybrid with massive flowers with a diameter of 20 cm, which have a very strong spicy aroma. Suitable for planting in shady places and requires shelter only in the first wintering.

golden stone(Golden stone)- when choosing this variety, remember that the plant is practically odorless. The flowers are lemon yellow with a dense cherry speck. The stem rises to a height of 110 cm.

Scheherazade(Scheherazade)-this flower seems to have come down to us from the Persian carpet from the fairy tales "A Thousand and One Nights". Variegated flowers of amazing color appear on the stems in the second half of summer. The height of hybrid plants reaches 120-180 cm.

Sophie(Sophie)- wine-red with a yellow border, the flowers of this variety are directed strictly upwards. They have a very strong aroma, grow to almost 180 cm. Lily is resistant to fungal diseases and cold.

Top Gun(Top Gun)- such a militant name is a thin and fragrant flower with light purple pink petals and elegant specks. It is suitable for both single and group plantings.

Two Some (Tu Sam)- rich dark orange flowers with maroon spots amaze with their brightness. They will successfully fit into the design of any garden, however, they do not smell at all.

white pixels (White Pixels)- beauty, grace and perfection are perfectly combined in one plant. This lily blooms for a very long time, it is unpretentious and frost-resistant. The height of the stem reaches 110 cm.

Thanks to a timely transplant, you can keep lilies healthy and attractive for a long time. A signal that the plant should be rejuvenated should be a reduction in the number of peduncles and a decrease in the size of the flowers. Do not delay with division and transplantation, and then you will not have problems with lilies.

contemplative

In many flower beds you can find colorful lilies.

They like to breed, creating entire carpet lawns.

Lilies can be propagated in more than one way:

air bulbs,

scales,

green cuttings,

nest division,

seeds.

Let's talk about each in detail.

Reproduction by air bulbs

Air bulbs are the same bulbs, but formed not in the soil, but in the axils of the leaves. Usually they appear in varieties such as sulphurous, tiger, etc. Bulbs are harvested for a month (in September, until the first days of October), as they ripen (easily depart).

After collecting the bulbs of lilies, before winter, sow them in a prepared groove to a depth of 3-4 cm every 5-10 cm. After a few years, bulbs ready for planting will grow there.

If it is not possible to plant in a garden bed, then do it in planting boxes, filling them with moistened sand. For the winter, the boxes are removed to the balcony or to the basement, where the temperature does not drop below 0º. In the spring, plant them in the garden, and after 1-2 years, transplant them to a permanent place.

In some types of lilies, the appearance of bulbs can be caused artificially (bulbous, Taiwanese, saffron, umbrella, white). To do this, spud the lily stems with earth, cut the buds and flowers, or bend the stem and cover it with soil.

Reproduction of lily scales

Many, it is convenient, quick and easy, only flowering begins no earlier than 3-4 years after planting.

For reproduction, scales are taken from those that are closest to the bottom of the bulb. Without prejudice to the "health" of the bulb, expose no more than a third. You can remove the scales in the spring or when transplanting plants in the fall. Some experienced growers successfully this is done throughout the season.

Carefully rake the earth away from the bulbs, being careful not to injure the roots. Remove the bulb (but you can not remove it) and gently pressing on it, break the scales from the bottom. Discard damaged scales. Disinfect the wounds of the bulb with potassium permanganate and sprinkle with a mixture of crushed charcoal and sulfur. Plant the bulb back, and treat the torn off scales with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then with heteroauxin, dry and dust with crushed coal with sulfur. Scales are stored up to 5 months in a cool place.

In spring, lily scales are planted immediately in open ground, deepening by 2/3 and keeping a distance between each other of 5-6 cm, 20-25 cm between rows. They are mulched with humus and shaded. Watch the soil moisture, avoiding drying and waterlogging, from which the scales can rot.

In autumn, lily scales are planted in planting boxes, filled with soil for seedlings and sand in a ratio of 3: 1. Scales are inserted into the holes by 2/3 and covered with earth. Cover with a transparent lid and every time the soil dries, spray the greenhouse, maintaining the humidity level. Place the box in a warm place, out of direct sunlight. When babies appear on the scales in 2-3 months, you need to pick them up in separate containers, and in the spring transplant them into open ground for growing. After 1-2 years, you can plant in a permanent place.

Reproduction of lilies with green cuttings

When the bulbs of lilies grow slowly, and you want to propagate these beautiful flowers, then they use the method of propagating lilies with green cuttings. To do this, cut the stem with secateurs, leaving the bulb in the ground. Disinfect the cut on the handle with potassium permanganate and growth substance. Fill the planting boxes with vermiculite or clean sand.

You can plant green lily cuttings immediately in the garden. Landings are covered with a film, regardless of where they were planted.

If the cutting is too long, then make grooves at an angle with a depth of 15-20 cm and lay the cuttings on them so that their tops are slightly visible on the surface.

Fill it with sand, pour it from a watering can, and after a month baby bulbs are formed in the soil, which can be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction of lilies by division

Nest division is simple, but not very productive. To do this, dig a nest with an earthen clod, being careful not to damage the roots and stems, because. if half of the roots are damaged, the plant loses its ability to bloom.

Put the nest on the ground, clean it from the ground and separate with your hands first small, then large onions (1 onion - 1 stalk). Reject, sort and plant for growing in light, fertile soil. Bulbs with signs of decay should be removed immediately. Flowering occurs in 2-4 years.

Reproduction of lilies by seeds

This breeding method is quite troublesome and is usually done by breeders who are always looking for new varieties of lilies and them. But if you're interested, you can try:

In April, carry out a pick in separate pots and land in a greenhouse, digging along with the pots. Spend several dressings with mullein, combining with watering. Weak seedlings are left in the greenhouse until next year. At the beginning of summer, bulbs are planted to a depth of 3-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.

When planting in holes, add some sand and hardwood. During the season, once a week, spray with a 0.15% solution of potassium permanganate. At the end of September, cover plantings with humus with a layer of 5 cm, and dry leaves before wintering.

It is better to plant heat-loving varieties of lilies in greenhouses for the winter, covering them with dry leaves and snow, preventing the temperature from rising above 0º.

If the florist notices that previously fine blooming lilies begin to grow smaller, then this is the first sign that the plants need to be planted. Usually, 3-6 years after planting (the period depends on the variety of lilies), the bulbs become overgrown with children, deplete the soil around them and, as a result, produce smaller and smaller flowers or stop laying flower buds altogether.

by the most optimal time August is considered (in extreme cases, the beginning of September), when the bulb increases in size, the scales become fleshy and it is quite ready for transplantation. In addition, until the onset of autumn cold weather, there is a lot of time left for the plant to take root well and adapt in a new place.

If the need arises, then lilies can be transplanted at the time of flowering without any damage to them. However, it must be borne in mind that this method should be chosen only in exceptional cases.

Similarly, spring transplants and nest division should not be abused. Bulbs start growing early, and when digging, fragile shoots with flower buds can easily be broken. In this case, the flowering of damaged lilies in the summer is not expected. If you still need to divide the plant, then it is advisable to dig a nest as early as possible, in April.

With a pitchfork, overgrown bulbs with children are carefully removed. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the fact that they are self-deepening and sometimes are at a depth of 30-40 cm. Large specimens are laid aside for planting in a flower bed, and small ones for growing into a "shkolka" (seedling bed). It is important to disinfect lilies. To do this, use solutions of drugs Maxim (Topaz, Vitaros) or a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.

In a new place, it is important to prepare the landing hole well. In the flowerbed where the lilies will be planted, organics are added (best of all, mature compost or very well-rotted humus in the amount of 10 kg per sq.m.), complex fertilizers (150 g per sq.m.), ash (200 g per sq.m.). m.). If the soil is clayey, sand (10 kg per sq.m.) and lime ( dolomite flour). All ingredients are mixed.

When planting divided bulbs, dig a hole with a depth of 3-4 bulb heights. Usually it is 20-25 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom with a mound, an onion is placed on this pillow, carefully straightening the roots, covered with sand, and on top - with a prepared fertile layer. Sand will protect the bottom and scales from decay. After planting, the flower bed is watered abundantly.

Of particular note is the snow-white lily (Candidum). It is planted to a depth of no more than 3-4 cm from the surface, since this plant does not form stem supra-bulb roots. In autumn, a rosette of leaves grows and it must be covered with a layer of fallen leaves.

Small onions - children are finely planted in a special place, where they are grown for 2-3 years until they can form a flower arrow. Lily planting sites are watered during dry times, and when autumn planting mulch for the winter with peat.

Often in the fall, lily bulbs with rather long shoots appear on sale. Can they be planted in September-October? It is best to refuse to buy such untimely planting material, because. the percentage of plant death or delay with flowering for 1-2 years is high. However, if it is necessary to purchase just such a variety, which is offered in the fall, perhaps you can decide to buy. To do this, the shoot is carefully twisted out of the bulb (like a lamp from a cartridge) and planted in the ground, as usual, after pickling.

Lily - bright flowering plant extraordinary beauty. The perfection and elegance of the peculiar form of flowers impresses and fascinates. A variety of shades and a pleasant aroma distinguish these beautiful flowers from other flowers. propagate lilies in several ways.

Instruction

Reproduction by children. It is advisable to propagate in this way in late August or early September. Carefully separate the babies that have formed on the underground part of the stem from mother plant. Plant them in specially prepared soil. After landing in a permanent place, do not forget to moisten the ground.

Reproduction. Approximately at 3-4 years of life, a nest of bulbs is formed in the plant. Separate a bulb with a sufficient root system in mid-August. Please note that lilies severely emaciated. Wait 1-1.5 months for the bulb to gain strength, become dense, large and elastic. This will help warm atmosphere, nutrition, and the presence of moisture. Try not to cut the roots. Bulb nests do not always break easily, so sometimes they have to be divided by force (without resorting to tools). Plant in well-moistened soil, at a depth of 10-15 cm.

Reproduction. Not all varieties propagate in this way. lilies, but some form stem buds in the leaf axil (). On one shoot, up to 200 pieces of such bulbs develop. To increase the bulbousness of the plant, do not forget to remove faded buds in time and regularly moisten the soil. At the end of August, the bulbs are easily separated from the main stem. Collect them and process in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (about 15-20 minutes). Then plant in the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm. Be sure to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between the holes. In winter, cover the plantings with leaves or peat.

Reproduction by bulbous scales. In this way, from one bulb, you can up to 150 scales of planting material. The most optimal period for this type of reproduction is spring. Scales choose large, fleshy, healthy and free of spots. Remove the scales from the bulb and process in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Dry them and put them in a clean plastic bag for 1-1.5 months. Keep the bag of scales in a dark place at room temperature. A week before planting, remove the scales in order to form bulbs. Plant the resulting hybrid in boxes, soil or greenhouses. The soil should be well moistened and protected from strong winds and direct sunlight.

Related videos

By purchasing just one lily bulb in the store, you can get several healthy plants that will delight you with their flowering next year.

You will need

- lily bulb;
- sphagnum moss;
- sawdust;
- plastic bag;
- box for seedlings;
- Nutrient substrate.

Instruction

Most best time for reproduction of lilies with scales - February. It is at this time that excellent planting material can be purchased and the plants will develop sufficiently before planting in the ground. But you can carry out this procedure in the fall.

Break off 2 extreme scales from each bulb. Put in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or aloe juice for 2 hours, then dry and powder the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

most economical and convenient way lily breeding is reproduction by scales. In this way, many new seedlings can be obtained that retain the properties of the mother plant.

It happens that garden rodents spoil lily bulbs, and then, most often, gardeners throw them away. But even spoiled heads can be used for planting, and scales that are located over the entire surface of the bulb are taken as planting material. In order to get a new plant from one scale, it must be carefully separated, keeping a piece of the bottom at the bottom. After separating the scales, they must be treated with any fungicidal agent, for example, furacilin solution or ash. After that, the scales are treated with means of a growth and root formation stimulator. Planting material prepared in this way must be placed in a special substrate. It can be coconut fiber or sphagnum moss. The substrate is placed in a plastic bag, moistened and the scales are placed there. It is desirable that they do not touch each other. Scales are placed in several layers, shifting them with moss. After filling the package, it is tied.

After 2 months, babies will appear on the scales, which means they will be ready for planting in the soil. Small onions are planted along with scales, which are still a nutrient base for them. Plantings are sprinkled with soil 1 cm thick. Watering is carried out warm water. The container where the young bulbs were planted is placed closer to the light. After a while, leaves will appear on the surface, but these are not real plants yet, and they are not yet ready for planting in the ground. The next year after planting the scales, good strong roots will appear on the bulbs. These seedlings are planted on garden plot, new beautiful lilies will grow from them.

From one scale you can get up to 15 new plants.

In this way at the end of August or beginning of September. Carefully separate the children that have formed on the underground part of the stem from the mother plant. Plant them in specially prepared soil. After landing in a permanent place, do not forget to moisten the ground.

GROWING LILYS

Lily is a perennial brightly flowering bulbous plant lily family. Lily has been used in culture for hundreds of years due to its beauty, grace and perfection of flower shape. Peduncle 0.3-2m high densely covered with linear or lanceolate leaves. Lily flowers can be of various shapes and colors - white, yellow, orange, pink, red and others. Many of them have a pleasant aroma.
Lilies are not in vain considered one of the most popular and beautiful flowers in the world: they have large and fragrant flowers, are less susceptible to diseases than other plants, and most importantly, thanks to the long growing season, they decorate your garden almost all summer. A large number of varieties of lilies makes their breeding a matter, although not simple, but extremely exciting and grateful.

Location

Most lilies prefer planting between rows of small shrubs that shade the soil and lower stems. Associated plants for the culture of lilies can be ground azaleas and rhododendrons, small species of jasmine, potentillas and, in general, small shrubs that do not give root offspring. Of the herbaceous perennials, peonies and ash (dictamnus) are suitable for this purpose.

It is undesirable to plant lilies close to large trees- ash, elm, poplar and birch, as the roots of these trees quickly use fertilizer and dry out the soil.

First group- lilies that tolerate a completely open sunny location. Growing these lilies for different purposes possible in large arrays in open areas.

This group includes the following lilies: saffron, bulbous, Daurian, coral, beautiful, Thunberg (all forms), umbrella (all forms), Willmotta and its hybrids, Sestroretskaya, pleasant, Tibetan and its hybrids, white (all forms), Taiwanese (all forms), Zalivsky, long-flowered, kolkhedonskaya, pardalovaya, drooping. Lilies of this group are suitable for cutting flowers and for forcing at different times.

Second group- lilies that cannot stand direct sunlight and midday heat. Many lilies of this group are difficult to grow and propagate due to their poor winter hardiness, susceptibility to various diseases and rotting of the bulbs at high humidity during the winter dormancy. Lilies of this group are best grown in conditions close to natural, namely, together with shrubs and perennials. They need to be planted near shrubs in such a way that the lower part of the stems of lilies and root system were in the shade given by shrubs and perennials.

The second group includes lilies: Maksimovich, Schowitz, monofraternal, Kesselring, violet, martagon with all forms and hybrids, Sargent, Nepalese, Northern Palmyra, Hanson, Canadian, proud, Henry, Ledebour, Tsvetaeva hybrids, sulfur lily hybrids.

When choosing a site for growing lilies, it is imperative to take into account the microclimatic conditions of the area. Suitable sites for the culture of lilies may be the middle parts of the slopes of hills, beams, river banks; northern slopes should be avoided.

Reproduction, cultivation and care

Usually lilies are grown in one place without transplantation for 3-5 years. During this time, they form nests of bulbs. different ages and magnitude. If lilies in younger plantings get sick, they must be dug up and transplanted to another place, without adhering to such a long digging frequency. It should also be taken into account that fast-breeding lilies of Asian hybrids are transplanted more often, once every 3 years, and slow-growing lilies of Martagon and Tubular hybrids less often.

The time of transplanting lilies to a new place should coincide with the end of the growing season, when the lily bulbs get stronger after flowering, which in middle lane Russia corresponds to the period from mid-September to early October. In everyday practical floriculture, methods are most often used vegetative propagation lilies.

Reproduction by children

Children formed on the underground part of the stem are separated from the mother plant during transplantation or after raking the earth from the stem. The separation and disembarkation of children for rearing is carried out in August.

Reproduction by bulbs

Due to the formation of several renewal buds by one bulb, 3-4 years after planting in Asiatic and 5-6 years in Tubular, a whole nest of bulbs is formed in its place. Daughter bulbs with an independent root system are separated and planted as independent plants in mid-August. These dates can be shifted to the end of the month or even to September. They are determined primarily by the condition of the bulbs. After the flowering of lilies, the bulbs are very depleted, lose weight, become loose, the scales become thinner, bind. It should take 1 - 1.5 months after flowering for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense and elastic. This process is influenced by all factors: heat, the presence of moisture, as well as nutrition. Under favorable conditions, in early August, they begin to transplant lilies of the June flowering time (mainly Asian hybrids).

Bulb nests need to be dug out, trying not to cut the roots, then shake off the ground from them and inspect. Nests usually fall apart, but sometimes they have to be divided with effort. You need to do this with your hands, without the use of tools, after trimming the stems. Those scales that are with rusty or brown spots must be removed and destroyed. The roots must be cut to 15 cm, dead cut completely. Clean bulbs with roots are treated by pickling for 20-30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. The separated bulbs are planted in the ground prepared in advance, which must be watered in dry weather on the eve of planting. Low-growing lilies are planted at a depth of 10-12 cm for large bulbs and 7-8 cm for small ones, medium-sized ones - 12-15 and 8-10 cm, respectively, tall ones - 15-20 and 10-12 cm (the depth is indicated to the bottom bulbs). Planting holes should be made 10 cm deeper, as lilies are transplanted with roots that must be carefully straightened, pouring clean under the bottom of the bulb. river sand 2-3 cm layer, and then cover with earth. The minimum distances between the bulbs during planting for these groups are respectively equal: for undersized lilies - 15-20 cm, for medium-sized ones - 20-25 cm, for tall ones - 25-30 cm.

Reproduction by bulbs

A number of varieties of lilies have the ability to form small stem buds - bulbs in the leaf axil. On one shoot they can develop up to 150-180 pieces. Bulb-bearing varieties differ in the time of formation of bulbs (before, during and after flowering), their number, size and color (from: light green to dark brown). The removal of buds and high humidity air. Often, buds and bulbs that have not yet been separated from the shoots form roots, and sometimes 1-2 leaves. In late summer - early autumn, the bulbs begin to easily separate from the stem. At this point, they must be collected for subsequent cultivation and in order not to clog the plantings. The collected bulbs must be treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate, keeping in the solution for 20 minutes. Then the collected bulbs are planted for growing in grooves 2-3 cm deep with a distance between rows of 15-20 cm, between bulbs in a row - 5-6 cm.

For the winter, planting bulbs are covered on frozen soil with a layer of 10-15 cm of woody leaves, sawdust or peat. The grown bulbs can be planted in the ground in a permanent place after 1-2 years.

Reproduction by bulbous scales

This breeding method gives the largest number of planting material (up to 150 or more from one bulb) and is suitable for all types, hybrids and varieties of lilies. This method is based on the ability of scales separated from the bulb to form small bulbs. Scale terms for various kinds lilies are different. The best time for a number of varieties from the Asian hybrids group and for royal lilies (regala) is spring, for Tubular hybrids - the flowering phase. When lilies are scaled at the optimal time for them, young bulbs are formed earlier and in large numbers. Lilies can be propagated in this way at any time of the year. The best result is obtained when using the outer, largest and fleshy scales for propagation. The scales should be white, healthy, without spots. To remove the scales, the bulbs are either dug up (therefore, scaling is often carried out in August, combining it with lily transplantation), or the earth is raked from them, but without disturbing the growth of plants, in this way scaling is carried out in May. Up to 1/2 or up to 2/3 of all scales are removed from the bulb. At the same time, the mother bulb continues to grow and develop normally, the quality of its flowering almost does not decrease. The removed scales are washed and treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.
After that, it is necessary to dry them, put them in a clean plastic bag, tie it up and place it in a dark place, where it should be kept for about 1.5 months at room temperature (22-24 ° C). Then it is desirable to place the bags for a month in more cool place where the temperature does not exceed 17-18 °C. Before planting, they must be stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-4 ° C. During this period, bulbs form on the scales. different size, in best case- up to 1 cm in diameter. Depending on the season, they are planted in boxes, in greenhouses, in greenhouses or ridges. open ground. The choice of a site for growing lilies must be carried out carefully. All lilies require protection from strong winds, but stagnation humid air, leading to the defeat of plants with gray rot, is very dangerous, so the site must be not only well protected from the winds, but also sufficiently ventilated.

Regardless of when lilies are planted (in spring or autumn), the features of the entire complex of agrotechnical measures (selection of a place, soil preparation, planting, care, warming for the winter) depend primarily on the belonging of lilies to one or another section: different groups lilies have different requirements for growing conditions. So, Asian hybrids prefer slightly acidic soils and light shade, although they grow well in open sunny places. Tubular hybrids grow best on neutral and slightly alkaline soils, in open sunny areas. Lily Martagon and Eastern hybrids require placement in partial shade. Lilies need loose, permeable nutrient soil, clean of rhizomatous weeds. Clay, water-resistant and sandy low-moisture soils are not suitable for lilies.
The area where the lilies are planned to be planted should not be flooded with water, because the bulbs can easily rot and die from stagnant water. Since many lilies belong to forest plants, they are suitable fertile soils with a large humus layer, emerging from under the deciduous forest. Since lilies are planted for a long time (Asian hybrids for 3-4 years, Tubular - for 6-8 years), soil preparation plays an important role in their culture. Up to 10 kg of humus, up to 20-50 g of bone meal, 15-20 g of urea, 30-50 g of simple or 20-25 g of double superphosphate, 15-30 g of sulfate are added for digging (per 1 m2) potassium. Under Asian hybrids, peat is applied, for Tubular soils, they are limed by adding lime under the previous crop or in the spring. Soil cultivation is carried out to a depth of 35-40 cm.

Planting depth for lilies that form only bulbous roots should not exceed 2-3 cm, counting from the top of the bulb; for forming supra-bulbous (stem) roots - 3 bulb heights. Planting depth is reduced for young bulbs, as well as on heavy soils. Insufficiently winter-hardy and more powerful Tubular hybrids are planted to a depth of 15-20 cm. When transplanting, the bulbs and their roots should not be allowed to dry out, this negatively affects the survival rate, overwintering and further growth of plants. The bulbs are planted in a layer of sand (3-4 cm) poured onto the bottom of the hole, which protects the bottom of the bulbs from decay. After planting, the soil is abundantly watered and mulched.

Landing Care

Planting care is normal: weeding, watering, loosening and top dressing. For the winter, areas with tubular hybrids and small bulbs are covered over frozen soil with a layer of 15-20 cm of mulching material. In the spring, before the shoots appear, the plants are fed with ammonium nitrate (30-40 g/m2), and after the shoots appear, with a complete mineral fertilizer at a dose of 40-60 g/m2; the same top dressing is given during the budding period and 1-2 weeks after cutting.

Since the supra-bulbous roots of lilies are located in the upper layer of the soil, its drying out and overheating adversely affect the development of plants. To avoid drying out and overheating of the supra-bulbous roots, the soil is mulched. organic materials or peat with a layer of 3-4 cm.

It is necessary to water under the root, since moistening of the leaves contributes to the development of gray rot. For the formation of larger bulbs, when grown on planting material, the resulting buds are removed from plants. Lily flowers are cut early in the morning or late in the evening, and in cool, cloudy weather - at any time. For the normal development of the bulb, when cutting the inflorescences on the plant, leave at least 1/3 of the length of the stem.

pruning

Lily stems should be cut, leaving a stump, if at the time of division they are green, without signs of disease. If the stems have died, which indicates the presence fungal diseases, then after digging the bulbs, you should carefully unscrew them.

Diseases and pests

Among lilies, the most common fungal diseases are: gray rot(botrytis), Fusarium bulb rot, are less common, but the most dangerous viral diseases. Of the pests, the most dangerous are onion mites, onion hoverflies, and aphids in the greenhouse.