Lily leaves are covered in black clusters. Effective fight against red beetles on lilies

Lilies have a lot of pests - about 15 species. But the most dangerous are seven.

Spider mite

A well-known pest that feeds on the juice of young shoots. Forms huge colonies and can "suck" the plant to death. The first signs of infection are the leaves begin to curl. If you take a closer look, you can see small red dots - these are ticks.

Control measures. Treat the plants with any acaricide, for example "Aktellik" or "Fitoverm". The main thing is to do this as early as possible, while there are few pests.

Squeak beetle (bulbous rattler)

An incredibly beautiful beetle, but very harmful. Females lay larvae on leaves color pink that eat the leaves clean. You won't have to look for them for a long time - they are clearly visible.

Control measures. Treat the plants with "Karbofos", "Inta-Vir" or "Decis" according to the instructions.

Lily fly

This pest lays eggs in lily buds, from which the larva hatches there. She eats pistils and stamens on flowers. When the flowers open, they look ugly and rot very quickly.

Control measures. It is almost impossible to get rid of this fly completely, but you can significantly reduce its number. To do this, it is necessary to process the plants with "Karbofos" or "Ditox" three times a season. Affected buds must be cut off and burned.

Medvedka

This "beast" eats up the roots, bulbs and shoots of lilies. You can find the pest through the numerous holes in the soil.

Control measures. The easiest way is to add "Grizzly", "Medvetox" or "Thunder" preparations to the soil according to the instructions.

Another option is to arrange traps for the bear. For example, dig small holes and fill them with manure. Or lay out small pieces of slate in the flower garden - pests like to hide in such places. From time to time, traps need to be checked and insects destroyed.

Khrushch (beetle larva)

It hurts in the same way as the bear - it eats up the roots and bulbs, as a result of which the lilies die. They can only be found by digging up the soil.

Control measures. The same drugs as against the bear - "Grizzly", "Medvetox", "Thunder". Or you can simply dig up the soil before planting the bulbs and select them by hand.

Onion fly

If in late spring - early summer, while caring for lilies, you hear a quiet murmur, look around. Do you see small black flies hanging over the flowerbed? Know your flowers are in danger. These are onion hoverflies, and they most likely have already laid their eggs in the soil. Soon the larvae will appear, which with an exorbitant appetite will gnaw into the bulbs and turn their insides into a putrid mass.

Control measures... Powder the bulbs with Bazudin before planting. In the period of mass summer flies treat the plants with "Karbofos" or "Inta-Vir". And in the fall, it is imperative to dig up the soil and mulch the lilies with peat.

Wireworm (Click Beetle Larvae)

This typical potato pest eats lily bulbs with pleasure. As a result, the bulbs rot and the plants die.

Control measures. There are especially many wireworms on acidic soils, therefore, lime or wood ash must be added to such areas before planting lilies. Once every 2 weeks, it is useful to water the plants with potassium permanganate (3-5 g per 10 l of water). Of the drugs, Provotox, Medvetox, Vallar and Pochin help well.

Various insects and diseases not only spoil the appearance of flowers, but can also cause the death of all plants in the flower bed. To maintain plant health, you need to learn how to correctly identify diseases of lilies and take appropriate measures to combat them.

The most common diseases and pests of lilies with treatment methods and photos will be described in this article. From it you will learn about the characteristic signs of diseases, as well as traditional and folk methods treatment.

Diseases of lilies and their treatment with a photo

The fragrant lily has always been the main decoration flower arrangements... They also love her for the simple method of planting and unpretentiousness in care, but they often forget that only compliance with the rules of agricultural technology ensures a full-fledged healthy flowering.

In addition, the resistance of a crop to diseases depends on the geographical origin of the plant. For example, people from the tropics can hardly endure winter and may even die due to insufficient air humidity. Therefore, plants planted in unsuitable climatic conditions grow weakened, get sick more often and longer and die faster.

Causes

Most often, lilies are susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. So, in thickened plantings or with prolonged cultivation in one place, there is a risk of developing fungal diseases, among which are distinguished (Figure 1):

Gray gil;
Rust;
Sclerocial rot;
Root and bacterial rot.

Viral diseases are transmitted by pests or through an infected garden tools... The most common among them:

Variegated virus;
Rosette disease;
Mosaic.

Figure 1. The main symptoms of diseases in flowers

Let us consider in more detail the diseases of lilies, their symptoms and methods of treatment with a photo.

Symptoms

To start the correct fight against diseases, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristic symptoms of each pathology from the photo and description.

Gray rot (botris)

It manifests itself as rapidly growing on lower leaves brown spots that soon form large patches of plaque-covered mucous tissue (Figure 2). The affected stems die very quickly, so it is recommended to carry out preventive measures aimed at preventing the development of this disease.

Ways to combat gray rot are as follows:

Preliminary disinfection of the bulbs before planting in a solution of foundation;
Change of planting site of bulbs every 4-5 years;
Compliance with sparse landings;
Watering in the morning by the root method;
Construction of a protective shed over the flower bed in case of a rainy period;
Preventive spraying of seedlings in early spring solution copper sulfate(0.5%), Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%).

Figure 2. Symptoms of gray mold

When a disease is detected, the solutions are used in turn with an interval of 10 days, the affected parts of the plants are destroyed.

Appears on mechanically damaged bulbs. The disease manifests itself most clearly during the storage period. Symptoms are spots of yellow Brown color appearing at the attachment points of the scales (Figure 3). Subsequently, these spots turn into soft, rotten areas and the bulb disintegrates.

Note: The disease is most active in hot weather with high humidity levels. The spores of the fungus that causes fusarium can persist in the soil for about 3 years.

The fight against the fungus of fusarium consists in the release of the bulbs from the affected scales with a mild degree of disease and in the destruction of the bulbs with their severe damage.

Figure 3. Signs of fusarium

In addition, the soil is disinfected 2-3 weeks before planting with a solution of 40% formalin (250 ml of substance per bucket of water) and the soil is sprayed with foundation (0.1%), euparen (0.2%), bavistin (0.05% ) in early spring.

Rust

Spores of the fungus that causes rust can overwinter in stems and leaves as well as in bulbs. Rust, as a disease, is manifested by the appearance of small colorless spots on the leaves, later they turn yellow, and the leaves and stems dry out (Figure 4). The dark growths remaining on them contain a large number of fungal spores, which can infect other plants in spring.

Figure 4. Manifestations of rust

Therefore, for preventive purposes, pre-sowing treatment of the bulbs and frequent top dressing with the introduction of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are recommended. In addition, at the beginning of spring, prophylactic spraying of seedlings with Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride is carried out. When the first signs of the disease are detected, ditan, polycarbacin, cineb are used. If the lesion is still insignificant, then its infected parts are removed and destroyed. In the event of a severe defeat, the entire plant, together with the bulb, is removed and destroyed from the site.

Sclerocial rot

The first sign is called uneven seedlings in spring. Lagging bulbs have a thick white bloom at the neck of the bulb or on its bottom. The developing disease leads to the death of roots and leaves (Figure 5).

Note: Most often, sclerocial rot develops at an air temperature below +13 degrees in conditions of high humidity. Therefore, with an increase in temperature and a decrease in humidity, the disease stops spreading.

Figure 5. Symptoms of sclerocial rot

Prevention of sclerocial rot is similar to the methods of combating fusarium and botris. Diseased plants are removed along with a lump of soil, and foci of infection are treated with wood ash or bleach. In addition to lilies, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli are also susceptible to this fungal disease, so it is not recommended to plant lilies after these decorative bulbs.

Root rot

In accordance with its name, the disease affects the roots of the plant, as a result of which it begins to lag behind in growth, and then loses its buds. A signal about the onset of the disease is the yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which soon spreads to the entire stem and leads to its drying out (Figure 6).

To prevent plant disease with root rot, the following complex of protective measures should be carried out:

Carefully select planting material;
Pickle the bulbs before planting;
Disinfect the soil with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%).

Figure 6. Signs of root rot

All affected plants must be removed from the flower bed and destroyed in order to prevent the spread of rot to other crops.

Bacterial rot

Leads to decay and fall of leaves and peduncles. The bulbs of the plant are also affected by rotting depressed spots.

To combat this disease, the following procedures are taken:

Regular inspection of the bulbs during storage in order to timely detect and further destroy the infected planting material.
Presowing treatment of the soil and the bulbs themselves.
Spraying seedlings with fungicide in early spring, and if bacterial rot is detected, such spraying is repeated every decade.

If fungal diseases it is possible to prevent by various preventive measures, this cannot be said about viral infections. Besides, given view infections are not only impossible to prevent, but also very difficult to diagnose and treat. Viral infections are transmitted by insect pests and with plant sap through untreated equipment. Such diseases manifest themselves in different ways, and the fight against them consists in the destruction of the affected plants. The most widespread viral infections are variegated, rosette and mosaic.

The main symptoms of viral diseases are(Figure 7):

Variegated virus causes spotted color of the flower, unusual for lilies. This disease can be carried by aphids, and it is transmitted through gardening tools.
Rosette disease provokes the action of a whole complex of viruses. It is manifested by a delay in the growth of peduncles, deformation of the stem, and the formation of leaves irregular shape... The carrier of this disease is aphids.
Mosaic- a viral disease that has symptoms similar to botris. In this case, the leaves are covered with oblong spots of a pale gray color. The viral mosaic of aphids is also transmitted through a garden tool.

Figure 7. Viral diseases: 1 - variegation, 2 - rosette, 3 - mosaic

Methods for combating viral diseases are preventive examinations of the stored bulbs and the removal of specimens with unusual discoloration of the aboveground parts. Since the mosaic can be transmitted with plant sap through the inventory, a set of blades should be used when cutting flowers, which is disinfected after use. It is also necessary to fight aphids by spraying lilies with karbofos or ragor.

Lily diseases: video

If you want to keep blooming lilies in the garden or pots, we recommend that you watch the video, which describes in detail the main diseases, methods of dealing with them and effective means of prevention.

Asiatic lilies: diseases

Lilies belonging to Asian hybrids are the most unpretentious, and therefore the most common. They can be grown practically all over the world, even in Alaska.

In cold climates, the flower stalks of the plant are cut at ground level so that they do not rise above the snow cover. However, Asiatic lilies are more susceptible to certain fungal and viral diseases than others.

Causes

A fungal disease known as botris affects flowers in cold weather with high level humidity. Therefore, when choosing a site for planting, you should choose a place that is well ventilated.

Rotting of the bottom of the bulb is also caused by a fungus and is called fusarium. Its cause is stagnation of water as a result of poor drainage or its absence, the use of fresh manure as top dressing, drying out of the earthen coma.

Quite often, lilies are infected with the variegation virus, which is transmitted to them from tulips that grew earlier on the site. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant lily bulbs after other bulbs. Insect pests can also cause viral diseases. Regular combating them will protect your plants from viruses. Remember that well-groomed plants are much more resistant to various diseases.

Symptoms

How to recognize the onset of the disease in order to provide the plant with the necessary assistance in a timely manner? To do this, you should know the symptoms of diseases. For example, when affected by gray rot, signs of the disease appear on the leaves in the form brown spots, which merge into whole foci, passing to buds (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Manifestations of diseases in Asiatic lilies

It is important to know that viral diseases are much more dangerous than fungal ones, because they often occur latently, and when the symptoms become visible, it is impossible to save the plant. So, for example, the variegated virus proceeds. Therefore, having noticed the peculiarities and color of the flower, the shape of the stem, uncharacteristic for the plant, it is worth immediately getting rid of it so as not to infect the entire flower garden.

Treatment

The best way to combat Asiatic Lily disease is through prevention. So, to prevent botris disease, it is recommended to shed the seedlings with a solution of copper sulfate, ammonia and soda ash.

Note: To prepare a solution of 1 tbsp. copper sulfate dissolves in 5 l hot water, and the same amount of ammonia and soda is diluted in 5 liters cold water... Then a solution of copper sulfate is poured into a solution of ammonia and soda.

If preventive measures were not undertaken, then for the treatment of gray rot, plants are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, and in case of severe damage - with foundation or phytosporin every 2 weeks. In case of fusarium disease, it is necessary to dig up the bulbs, rinse them well and soak in a solution of foundation for 30 minutes.

Remember that it is impossible to cure viral diseases, so when viral lesions are found, your main task is to remove and destroy the infected plant as soon as possible in order to save the entire flower garden.

Pests of lilies and the fight against them

Crop bulbs contain a large amount nutrients, therefore, they are a delicacy not only for rodents, but also for various insect pests.

They not only weaken plants by eating leaves and bulbs, but also carry dangerous viral diseases. Consider some types of pests of lilies x and methods of dealing with them.

Lily pest control: red beetle

The red lily beetle is similar in appearance to a firefighter, and in fertility and gluttony - with Colorado potato beetle... The adult insect and its larvae eat the leaves, flowers and bulbs of the plant (Figure 9). Adults appear on flowers already in April, and if protective measures are not taken, then it will be extremely problematic to cope with the larvae hatched soon.

Figure 9. Larvae and adults of the red beetle

Therefore, as soon as pests of red beetles appear on the plants, you need to immediately begin to combat them. It is best to manually collect and destroy the insects. If time has been lost, it is necessary to spray the plants with any insecticide that is used to combat the Colorado potato beetle, for example, actor, confidor, decis.

Oval beetles orange with two dozen points on the elytra are onion leaf beetles. Adults and their pupae overwinter in the soil and come to the surface at the end of April. The onion beetle mainly damages lilies by eating leaves from the edges or gnawing holes in them. The onion beetle larva is able to skeletonize leaves (Figure 10).

As a preventive measure, it is recommended to regularly destroy weeds in the flower garden, on which leaf beetles can lay their larvae, collect adults by hand and destroy them, spray plants affected by larvae, chlorophos or infusion of herbs from wormwood and larkspur.

Figure 10. Flowers affected by the onion leaf beetle

To prepare the herbal infusion, you will need a bucket of finely chopped bitter wormwood or 800 g of dried wormwood, which is filled with cold water and infused for a day, then boiled for half an hour and, immediately before spraying, is diluted in half with water. Spraying with wormwood is repeated several times at weekly intervals.

An infusion of larkspur is prepared at the rate of 1 kg of chopped grass per bucket of water. The agent is infused for 2 days, then filtered and used immediately.

Aphid

Aphids are insects that not only harm plants themselves, but also carry viral diseases (Figure 11).

For this reason, this insect must be quickly destroyed in order to prevent its reproduction. In the fight against aphids, inta-vir (1 tablet per bucket of water) and fufanon solution (10-15 ml per bucket) have proven themselves well.

Learn more about the pests of lilies and how to control them in the video.

Treatment of lilies in the spring from diseases and pests

Unfortunately, lilies often get sick, they are damaged by many pests. Experienced gardeners know that the best way the fight is prevention and timely assistance. After all, the sooner a disease is detected, the easier it will be to treat it, and the more chances are to keep the entire blooming collection. That is why it is strongly recommended to spill emerging seedlings with special solutions. For example, a mixture of soda, ammonia and copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid and copper oxychloride.

Figure 11. Lilies infested with aphid colonies

In addition, immediately before planting, it is advisable to treat the bulbs with a 0.2% solution of foundationol or a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). You can also disinfect the bulbs in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Amateur flower growers who are engaged in cultivation often come across a flower - red bugs.

Insects attack the beautiful and soon it dies.

Description of the pest

Firefighter beetle refers to the leaf beetle family and carries a great threat to the leaves Today, two types of onion rattles and lily rattles are often found. very much eat up foliage, sometimes you can find a plant with a bare stem.

Important! If you ignore the invasion of "firefighters", their larvae are able to eat the entire plant in 4 weeks! As soon as pests have been discovered, it is necessary to begin an active fight against them.

Onion cracker... This pest is a representative with a bright red body and head. Thanks to its powerful jaws, the pest can eat not only foliage - the buds, flowers and stem of the plant become its prey. The main target of leaf beetles is lilies of the valley and lilies. That is why they have another name: "lily beetle".
Lily rattler... Another pest of lilies, the so-called red beetles. They have a rather attractive appearance, they have rigid wings. People call such pests "firefighters" because of their colors. They have an oblong red body and a black head.

Often children will catch and place insects in a small box - while a crackling sound comes from it, which gave the name to the pests.

Harm in the garden

Leaf beetles moved to summer cottages relatively recently: back in the 90s, they lived exclusively in forests. Today, the lily beetle is quite common in the garden, and you need to know how to deal with it.

Did you know? The larvae envelop themselves in mucus from their own excrement. In this way, they protect themselves from birds that ignore juveniles, which they mistake for their feces.

Undoubtedly, adults are capable of causing damage to plants in spring, but it is not so great and is not capable of leading to the death of a flower. It is necessary to beware of the larvae: they appear on the lower part of the leaves a little later, they have an orange color. During one season, one leaf beetle lays about 450 eggs, from which several generations can hatch.

About a week after they have eggs laid larvae appear pink. They are located under the sheet, so it is rather difficult to notice them right away. The larvae are very voracious and can eat all the leaves on the flower, leaving only the stem.
After 2-3 weeks, they move to the soil, where they begin to turn into orange pupae. After 3 weeks, red pests go hunting. For the winter, they hide in the ground or fallen leaves.

Important! When planting lilies, it is worth laying a garden film between the rows - this will prevent the beetles from digging into the ground, and you can quickly destroy them.

Leaf beetles attack plants very quickly, and sometimes you may not have time to enjoy the beauty of flowers.

How to deal with "leaf eaters"

If a red beetle begins to appear on lilies, you need to know how to get rid of it. There are several methods of pest control. Let's consider them.

Manually

The simplest and safe way destruction of beetles - mechanical. They can be collected by hand or shaken off into a container. The jar must be closed with a lid, since the beetles are well kept on the surface of the water and, having gathered in one pile, can easily get out of the container.

If you have small area, this method will help to cope with the invasion of "firefighters". You need to collect beetles several times per season. Despite the fact that insects do not irritate the skin and do not have poison, such an event should be carried out with gloves.

Chemistry

If the mechanical method of dealing with beetles has not brought results, you must use more difficult methods. This is about chemical preparations, which have a detrimental effect on insects. However, they should be used only at a time when the lilies are not blooming.

Did you know? Fire beetles are very cunning: when a person approaches them, they fall to the ground with their black belly up and become invisible. After the danger has passed, they take off and again start eating flowers.

There is no drug aimed at destroying this particular type of pest. It is advisable to use solutions and means, the purpose of which is the destruction of leaf-eating pests. Often, the same drugs are used to fight the "firefighters" as for the destruction

Over time, ratchets become resistant to chemicals. If red bugs begin to appear on the lily, you need to know how to treat the plant. The following drugs will have the best effect: "Talstar",

If the flower garden is large, and you also find many larvae, it is recommended to spray with a special solution prepared according to the instructions. Do not deviate from the recommended proportions, as this can lead to plant burns, while the beetles will remain unharmed.

Amateur flower growers who grow lilies often encounter flower pests - red bugs.

Insects attack beautiful plant, and soon it dies.

Description of the pest

The fire beetle belongs to the leaf beetle family and is a great threat to the flower's leaves. Today, two types of pests are often found: an onion rattle and a lily rattler. Insects eat the foliage very strongly, sometimes you can find a plant with a bare stem.

Important! If you ignore the invasion of "firefighters", their larvae are able to eat the entire plant in 4 weeks! As soon as pests have been discovered, it is necessary to begin an active fight against them.

Onion cracker. This pest is a representative of leaf beetles with a bright red body and head. Thanks to its powerful jaws, the pest can eat not only foliage - the buds, flowers and stem of the plant become its prey. The main target of leaf beetles is lilies of the valley and lilies. That is why they have another name: "lily beetle".
Lily rattler. Another pest of lilies, the so-called red beetles. They have a rather attractive appearance, they have rigid wings. People call such pests "firefighters" because of their colors. They have an oblong red body and a black head.

Often children will catch and place insects in a small box - while a crackling sound comes from it, which gave the name to the pests. Insects such as ants, kivsaki, bark beetle, weevil, ground beetle and may beetle also bring irreparable harm to plants.

Harm in the garden

Did you know? The larvae envelop themselves in mucus from their own excrement. In this way, they protect themselves from birds that ignore juveniles, which they mistake for their feces. Undoubtedly, adults are capable of causing damage to plants in spring, but it is not so great and is not capable of leading to the death of a flower. It is necessary to beware of the larvae: they appear on the lower part of the leaves a little later, they have an orange color. During one season, one leaf beetle lays about 450 eggs, from which several generations can hatch.

About a week after the eggs are laid, the larvae appear pink in color. They are located under the sheet, so it is rather difficult to notice them right away. The larvae are very voracious and can eat all the leaves on the flower, leaving only the stem.
After 2-3 weeks, they move to the soil, where they begin to turn into orange pupae. After 3 weeks, red pests go hunting. For the winter, they hide in the ground or fallen leaves.

Important! When planting lilies, it is worth laying a garden film between the rows - this will prevent the beetles from digging into the ground, and you can quickly destroy them. Leaf beetles attack plants very quickly, and sometimes you may not have time to enjoy the beauty of flowers.

How to deal with "leaf eaters"

If a red beetle begins to appear on lilies, you need to know how to get rid of it. There are several methods of pest control. Let's consider them.

Manually

The easiest and safest way to kill beetles is mechanical. They can be collected by hand or shaken off into a container. The jar must be closed with a lid, since the beetles are well kept on the surface of the water and, having gathered in one pile, can easily get out of the container.

If you have a small area, this method will help to cope with the invasion of "firefighters". You need to collect beetles several times per season. Despite the fact that insects do not irritate the skin and do not have poison, such an event should be carried out with gloves.

Chemistry

If the mechanical method of dealing with beetles has not brought results, you must use more difficult methods. We are talking about chemicals that have a detrimental effect on insects. However, they should be used only at a time when the lilies are not blooming.

Did you know? Fire beetles are very cunning: when a person approaches them, they fall to the ground with their black belly up and become invisible. After the danger has passed, they take off and again start eating flowers.

Over time, ratchets become resistant to chemicals. If red bugs begin to appear on the lily, you need to know how to treat the plant. The following drugs will have the best effect: "Inta-Vira", "Talstar", "Decis". For effective control of plant pests, the following preparations are used: Nemabakt, Medvetox, Aktofit, Kinmiks, Brunka, Calypso, Anteed, Abiga-Peak, Iskra Zolotaya and Bitoxibacillin ".

Biological methods

If you want beautiful and healthy lilies to always grow in the garden, you need to prepare in advance for their protection. In specialized stores, you should purchase the necessary chemical agents, sprayers, and always be ready to take on the firefighter beetles.

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Fighting the red lily beetle

Lilies, like all other flowers, get sick and are attacked by pests. Florists who have considerable experience are confident that the earlier they begin to provide assistance, the faster and easier the plant will be able to defeat the disease and heal wounds caused by harmful insects.

Who are these gluttonous harmful leaf beetles of lilies and what you need to do to get rid of them, you can find out from this article.

"Red invaders"

The sun warms up in the spring, the ground is freed from the snow cover, delicate sprouts of lilies make their way from under it. Their delicate leaves timidly reach for the light, as if showing gratitude to the spring for the warmth that she gave to all living creatures!

Just starting to admire the beauty bulbous plants how their amazing beauty begins to fade. The reason is the invasion of red beetles, which, having come out of wintering, strive to quickly gain strength. To do this, they search for their favorite "dishes" in the form of lilies and hazel grouses by smell, overcoming rather long distances for this.

The "red invaders" belong to the leaf beetle family. The red beetle can be seen, as they say, with the naked eye. Their color resembles the color of a fire engine, which is why the insects were rightly called the beetle - firefighter. In our area, beetles of two types live: onion red beetles and lily beetles (lily), which are also popularly called onion rattler and lily rattler. The name comes from the ability of this insect to make specific sounds when a danger is suspected.

Wide use these pests in Europe and North America are attributed to the cultivation of lilies and the sale of their bulbs. Red beetles, which look attractive in the photo, are in fact among the largest pests in the garden. In their natural habitats, their eggs and larvae serve as food for the wasp larvae, but where the "red invaders" were transported, they natural conditions are safe. For this reason, the firefighter is an extremely dangerous creature for plants, especially for lilies.

Enemy # 1 for lilies

Gluttonous red bugs, which brazenly devour the leaves on lilies, do not disdain even flower petals, they are found everywhere in Europe. In our country, they became known at the very beginning of the nineties of the last century.

This pest loves to feast on lilies most of all, although it does not ignore such plants as lily of the valley and hazel grouse. Already at the very beginning of spring, it can be seen on plantings, where it begins to devour leaves, flowers and bulbs. If you don't get rid of it right away, then after the larvae appear, it will be very difficult to fight the beetle.

Adult red lily beetles have a characteristic appearance:

Quite large eyes;
Sufficiently narrowed chest;
Wide abdomen.

Body coloration: the area in front of the dorsum and elytra are scarlet, sometimes bright red, the surface of the latter is shiny with depressions. Long limbs and black antennae. The larvae of the rattlers resemble caterpillars, the same wingless with a thick long body. Their color is yellow, brown, orange.

For larvae, birds are potential enemies. So they came up with interesting way protection to envelop the body with its excrement. As a result, feathered enemies take a young individual for their feces and do not pay any attention to them.

Onion cracker

The second enemy of lilies is an onion rattler or an onion red beetle that resembles ladybug... For wintering, it goes into the soil, appears on the surface at the end of April or at the beginning of May. An adult beetle of this species is an individual of an elongated - oval shape, the size of which is no more than 7-8 cm in length. The abdomen is black, the elytra are orange-red. The legs are red with black dots, the black antennae are shorter than half the length of the body.

The larva of the onion cracker has a dirty - White color, there are black dots on the sides. The head and legs are black. From the back, the larva is covered with unpleasant mucus and excrement.

The onion rattle damages onions, tobacco, potatoes, hazel grouses, all types of lilies and other plants. Both adult beetles and their larvae cause harm to green spaces, devouring leaves, green boxes with seeds, stems and bulbs. This is an insidious insect for a short time manages to pinch off a tiny piece from many buds, but this already serves as an excuse that the blossoming flower will be completely ruined.

Reproduction of lily beetles

The mating period of red beetles begins in the middle of spring. You can often observe the following picture: insects stuck to each other sit on hazel grouses and on lily bushes. The mating process takes place in the same place where the pests eat, that is, on the leaves, and then on the lily buds. In the same places, females lay eggs on the underside of the leaves and on the stems of the plant. Clutch of eggs ends around mid-summer.

One individual is able to lay 450 orange eggs during the season. They then hatch about three generations of insects! The larvae are born 7-10 days after laying the eggs. They hang on the underside of the leaves and are not easy to spot.

Natural remedies for red bugs

Protection from rattles will be effective only if all activities are carried out in a complex, one of them does not give any positive results. It is often the owners of the garden themselves who have to engage in pest control. The inhabitants of Britain came to the conclusion that if the red bugs are not destroyed in time, they will completely destroy all the lilies and hazel grouses on the island. It is useless to wait for any help from the birds, because the firefighter beetle is not tasty, about which he sends a warning with his bright red color.

One of the measures is the manual destruction of pests. It is not necessary to use chemistry on small plantations. It is necessary to collect qualitatively, then destroy the red beetles by hand only a few times over the summer. Collecting them is not easy, it will take some skill. Crackers sitting openly on the grass are clearly visible, but the insect, at the slightest suspicion of danger, falls to the ground with its back down. The black-brown abdomen turns out to be at the top and practically becomes one with the ground, it is rather difficult to see the beetles in this position.

Of course, the job of collecting insects, especially larvae, is very unpleasant. The only good thing is that they are not poisonous and are not capable of irritating the skin, as other harmful insects do. But the main thing is to see your flower garden beautiful and healthy!

Herbal infusions as a method of fighting red beetles

The complex of protection of plantings of lilies from red beetles consists of observing crop rotation, as well as regular destruction of weeds from the root, spraying plants in problem areas during the feeding of the larvae with infusions of herbs. It is bitter wormwood and high larkspur. For the preparation of solutions, you will need the tops and leaves of wormwood, harvested during the flowering period, and the whole plant is high larkspur. It is better to cut it at the beginning of flowering.

Wormwood solution: fill a bucket with chopped fresh wormwood grass or 800g. dried. To fill with water room temperature... Insist for 24 hours, then simmer for half an hour. Before using, dilute the solution by taking one part of the broth and one part of water.

A solution for spraying from larkspur: put a kilogram of crushed potion in a bucket, pour cool water, leave to infuse. On the third day, strain. The solution is ready, you can start spraying.

In order for the solution to cling to the leaves, it is recommended to add one of the superficially active substances: soap solution, the cheapest shampoo or a little PVA glue.

In order for the onion red beetle to bypass lilies and other green food that it pleases, spraying the plants with these preparations should be carried out several times at intervals of one week.

Controlling red beetles with chemicals and biological control methods

It so happens that the collection by hand did not bring any results and the "red invaders" aggressively go on the offensive, which means that the time has come to use "heavy artillery", which consists of chemicals. They are used only when large numbers of larvae do not appear when the lilies are in bloom.

Currently, there is still no drug that would be intended to destroy the pests of lilies - red beetles. In cases of invasion of rattles on plants, they are used to combat them. chemicals that are capable of infecting other leaf-eating insects. Especially often these are funds that are used in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle.

Red beetles have become resistant to chemicals. Before choosing one of them, you should take this into account. To date, the most effective are the following modern drugs: Inta - Vira, Decis, Fufanon, Talstar, Kinmiks and others.

If the flower garden is large and a considerable number of pests have accumulated, you can spray with products that are used to combat the Colorado potato beetle. The solution must be prepared according to the attached instructions, otherwise the plant can be burned, and the pests will remain alive at that time.

Still, "chemistry" is not one of the best ways to combat harmful insects, including red beetles. Whichever insecticide you choose, no matter how its merits are advertised, it, in fact, was and remains a poison that carries great harm to nature.

In 1996, French scientists began large-scale studies, which were then carried out in European countries on lilies in the very season of the appearance of the red beetle. More than 1,000 eggs, about 30,000 larvae and many thousands of adult red beetles were delivered to the laboratory for research.

To have in your garden healthy plants lilies, it is necessary to prepare in advance for protection from small and large pests, including from red beetles - firefighters. It is necessary to purchase the necessary preparations and a good sprayer, prepare everything so that you can start the fight for the health of your pets in time. It is important not to forget that the beauty of flowers is in the hands of the owner!

ogorodnikam.com

What to do if red bugs eat lily leaves?

In recent years, all amateur flower growers growing lilies have developed serious problem... Its cause and other troubles are associated with the massive distribution of gluttonous red bugs of a large family of Leaf beetles, the genus Lilioceris.

Cute rattle beetles are active and incredibly voracious

We are spoiled by two common types. This is, first of all, onion rattle, bulbous, or bulbous daylily (L. merdigera). The lily beetle (L. lilii), known as the "firefighter", also causes harm. The pest eats up the leaves so much that only the stem is often left of the plant. Then there can be no talk of any flowering.

Last summer, I began to notice these red bugs on the wide leaves of the imperial hazel grouse and daylily. They are only looking at these plants so far. Lilies of the valley do not touch either.

Description of red bugs eating lily leaves

Onion cracker, or bulbous (Lilioceris merdigera), refers to leaf beetles with a bright red body and head. The cracker has powerful jaws. Her food is not only leaves, but also buds, flowers and even stems of plants of the Liliaceae family.

If you do not destroy the pest, there will be no flowering.

In nature, beetles feed on lilies of the valley, so they willingly move to areas located near the forest. There, their menu is more varied. The cracker is known to many as the "lily beetle".

The lily or lily rattler (Lilioceris lilii) is a beautiful beetle beetle sometimes called "squeak beetle" and "firefighter". It has an elongated oval red body and a black head. This beetle also willingly "bites" lilies.

Children catch rattles, squeeze them in their palms or put them in empty ones matchboxes to hear the faint squeak that many rattling beetles (their abdomen) make in times of danger.

The onion cracker, or bulbous, came to us from Europe at the end of the twentieth century, when foreign planting material began to enter the country en masse. Important note: these beetles do not bite!

If you do not fight the pest thoroughly, starting in spring, then you will have to deal with the larvae that appear in May - June from the eggs laid on the underside of the leaf. And they will be incredibly hungry. The gluttony of the larvae is so great that they are able not only to perforate the leaves of the lilies, but also to destroy them entirely.

In a few days, nothing would be left of the sheet

Last year I had gnawed "hemp" from several lilies that grew behind the fence. It is difficult to notice the larvae, because they are covered with a nasty greyish brown mucus. It is needed to scare off potential enemies.

It is very unpleasant to touch these mucous lumps.

The next stage of pest development is pupation in the soil (orange pupae). Then a new generation of red beetles appears, which are hungry too. Crackers hibernate under fallen leaves and start breeding next spring.

How to deal with lily eaters?

Most the right way- mechanical, in which the pest must be collected by hand. It is convenient to immediately shake it off into a jar of water. Mandatory with a lid. The fact is that the ratchets adhere perfectly to the surface of the water, quickly moving them with their paws. They huddle together and deftly climb onto the backs of bugs that find themselves nearby. After that, they instantly fly out of the can.

Pests in a jar of water

If there is no container at hand in which you can place the ratchets, then you have to cut them on the spot, crushing them with your foot.

If I'm in a hurry and can't devote a single minute to collecting red bugs, then I just throw them to the ground. Sometimes they fly away, more often they instantly fall to the ground (feet up) and freeze. So I manage to disarm the pest at least for a while.

Of the broad-spectrum insecticides, I would put Sonnet first. It acts on the chitinous cover of beetles, destroys their eggs and larvae, suppresses the ability of insects to produce offspring. The drug is not washed off from plants with water for a long time, therefore it has a long-term protective effect, retaining its activity for up to 30 days. By the way, this drug is considered one of the most effective and safe means fight even the Colorado potato beetle.

The modern pyrethroid insectoacaricide of a wide spectrum of action "Bifenthrin" ("Talstar") copes well with rattles. This drug is moderately toxic to birds, low toxic to humans. It is not recommended for use during the flowering period.

Aktara, Aktellik, Confidor Extra (moderately hazardous substance; cannot be used if there are bees) and INTA-VIR work well. You need to spray the plants carefully, from all sides, because lily pest resistant.

If lilies are grown for cutting, then it is better to use preparations of biological origin. For example, Fitoverm, KE and Bitoxiballin. It is advisable to spray at intervals of 20 days.

When using any tool, you must study the instructions. It should indicate how many days after treatment the plant can be used. In this case, we are interested in cutting or growing nearby food plants.

On lilies with dark leaves there are usually fewer red bugs

Among the means of struggle, there are biological options. It seems to me that in those years when there were many wasps, the number of rattlers slightly decreased. But not to breed wasps, many of which are dangerous to people. There are several species of wasps that need bugs (their larvae) to lay their testicles. This method is hardly suitable for amateur flower growers. It is used only by individual industrial farms under the close supervision of specialists.

A source

moyadacha.temaretik.com

Red beetle firefighter on lilies

The red beetle is hard to miss on the lily leaves. For the scarlet color of the fire engine, these harmful leaf beetles are called the fire beetle. The lily beetle has a red body and black head and legs. Onion beetle - close relative daylily - the whole body is red, only the antennae and legs are red-black. Liliaceae (lilac) and onion red beetles, which look so impressive in the photo, are large garden pests. Red beetles mate on the leaves of hazel grouse and lilies, which then eat the larvae that are born, causing great harm to plants. Read on to learn how to deal with the red lily beetle firefighter naturally and using biological controls.

The scientific name for red lily beetles is the lily rattle (Lilioceris lilii) and the onion rattle (Lilioceris merdigera). It is believed that when they see danger, red beetles make a sharp, high-pitched sound. To be honest, I have never heard any sounds from lily beetles, although for years now I have been regularly collecting them in spring and summer from the leaves of lilies and hazel grouses in my garden.

Adults of the red beetle hibernate, burrowing into the ground near the bulbs of lilies and hazel grouses. In the middle of spring, the mating period begins for firefighters, so beetles stuck to each other can often be seen first on hazel grouses, and then on lilies. The female red beetle lays eggs under the leaves and on the stems of lilies and hazel grouses; the egg-laying period in lily beetles continues until mid-summer. The larvae hatch after 7-10 days, surrounded by disgusting gray-brown mucus that repels birds and other possible predators. The larvae of the red fire beetle devour the leaves of lilies and hazel grouses and grow rapidly. The matured larvae burrow into the ground, where they pupate, and reappear on the surface of the earth, starting in the middle of summer. Then comes the next stage of devouring the leaves of lilies and hazel grouses, as a result of which only bare stems are sometimes left from poor plants. In autumn, a new generation of red lily beetles burrows into the ground, going into hibernation, and in spring the entire development cycle of a firefighter is repeated again.

Red beetle-firefighter (lily beetle, lily, lily rattler) on a leaf of hazel grouse Red beetles (firefighter beetle lily) eat leaves of lilies and hazel grouses Fire beetle (red, lily, lily beetle, lily rattler). Larvae Red firefighter beetle (lily beetle, lily beetle, lily rattler). Lilioceris lilii White lilies (Lilium candidum, Madonna's lily) in my garden Lilioceris lilii

Methods for dealing with the red lily beetle firefighter

Physical - manual picking of red firefighter beetle, mulching

If you have only a few lilies and hazel grouses in your garden, like mine, then the best way to deal with a red beetle is manual collection and the destruction of adult beetles. It is best to do this in the spring, even before they lay their eggs. Gathering adult red beetles requires skill as a fireman who escaped between his fingers immediately hides and buries himself in the ground, from where it is virtually impossible to extract him. Some gardeners bring a small container of soapy water with them, into which they shake off the red beetles found on liliaceae. In the spring, you need to check the hazel grouse and lilies every day to catch daylily beetles before laying eggs.

If the fire beetles were still able to lay their eggs on hazel grouses and lilies in your garden, then you can collect the eggs of the lily beetle or the larvae themselves at the stage of their maturation (photo above), although this is an unpleasant activity. Use thin rubber gloves and tissue paper (such as toilet paper) for collecting red beetle larvae.

Mulching (covering) row spacings near lilies and hazel grouses with garden film has proven itself well as a means of preventing the red beetle from burrowing into the ground for the winter.

Biological: bacteria versus red firefighter beetle

It is curious that in the early 2000s in the northeastern United States, the larvae of European wasps from the family of ichneumon wasps (a natural predator of eggs and red beetle larvae) were successfully introduced into the experimental territory. As a result, the population of red beetles has declined significantly over several years.

Bio-control ready-made - environmentally friendly Spinosad, containing bacteria that destroy whole line garden pests... The product must be applied in the evening to avoid inhalation by bees.

Chemical: (sparing) pesticides against red firefighter beetle

Organic gardeners prefer to use mild natural pesticides based on pyrethrins (substances found in pyrethrum, Dalmatian chamomile, which infect nervous system pests). These agents are more effective against red lily beetle larvae than against adult firefighters. Pyrethrins also help against aphids, see our article.

Another mild pesticide against the red lily beetle is neem oil (Azadirachta indica), which is believed to kill larvae and scare off adult firefighter beetles. The pesticide is applied in spring and early summer, when the red beetle is most vulnerable, every 5-7 days in a thick layer on the greens of lilies and hazel grouses.

From the means of strict chemical control from the red beetle, the following are used: karbofos, thiacloprid, acetamiprid, deltamethrin or lambda-cyhalothrin. Use these powerful agents with extreme caution, because along with pests, they will destroy many beneficial insects.

Tags: Pests and diseases, Red beetle, Lilies, Grouse

countrysideliving.net

When growing lilies, many growers may face the problem of diseases and pests in these flowers.

Lilies can be attacked by fungi that cause two main diseases botrytis and fusarium... Plants also suffer from viruses. The aerial part of lilies is most often damaged by the lily beetle and aphids, and the bulbs are mainly damaged by the larvae of beetles (May beetles) and winter moths; mice can also cause great harm. Both aboveground and underground parts of the plant can be negatively affected by thrips.

The spread of diseases and pests can be prevented by applying simple agricultural techniques. First of all, you need to carefully inspect the bulbs before planting, removing damaged scales and roots. It is advisable to pickle the bulbs in a solution of one of the fungicides (a substance that destroys fungi) and insecticides (kills insects) or hold them for at least half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Clearing the site from weeds, loosening and mulching the soil, avoiding thickened plantings and correct watering- the main preventive measures to protect lilies during the growing season. The causative agents of diseases persist in plant residues therefore damaged plant parts should be removed and destroyed. Excessive nitrogen nutrition and a lack of potassium during the growth period sharply reduce the resistance of lilies to diseases.

Let us dwell in more detail on individual pathogens and pests of lilies.

Lily diseases and how to deal with them

Botrytis, or gray rot

(Botrytis sp.), Affects the aerial part. On the leaves, stems, buds and flowers, seed pods, spots of various sizes appear, at first dark brown, later turning pale in the center. The spots enlarge, cover all the leaves, causing them to die off. When the stem is damaged, the entire part of the plant located above turns brown and dries out, the affected buds do not open. High humidity air and moderate temperatures promote the spread of Botrytis.

Control measures: feeding with phosphorus and potash fertilizers, making wood ash(200-300 g / m2), treatment with 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (2 g of copper sulfate and 20 grams laundry soap), drugs Benomil, Fundazol (1 g per 1 liter of water).

Fusarium, or bulb rot(Fusahum sp.), Affects the bulbs, primarily the roots and bottom. It manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the tops of the leaves, rotting of the base of the stem, lodging of peduncles and drying of the entire plant. Fusarium symptoms appear in the first half of the growing season before flowering or immediately after it. High temperature and excessive soil moisture provoke the development of the disease.

Control measures: spreading fluff lime or ash over the soil surface. For spraying, use Fundazol, Topsin-M. Severely affected plants must be dug up and destroyed. It is recommended to treat healthy bulbs with a solution of Wapam or Benlata before planting.

Viral diseases appear on lilies in different ways: pale green spots and stripes along the veins of the leaf, sometimes leaves, buds and flowers are deformed, growth stops. Characteristic feature- the appearance of stripes of a different color on the petals. They are especially noticeable in varieties with pink and burgundy flowers. Viruses are carried with plant sap during mechanical damage, as well as sucking insects, aphids and thrips.

Control measures: destruction of affected plants and control of insects.

Lily pests - how to fight?

The most common pests of lilies are:

Lily beetle (Liiioceris lilii)- a well-visible insect of bright scarlet color; the head, limbs and antennae are black. If the beetle is caught and squeezed with your fingers, it emits a characteristic crackle. Large orange-red larvae are covered with black secretions and have an unkempt appearance. Eggs are laid from April to September. Fresh clutches, larvae of different ages and adult beetles can be found on plants at the same time. The beetle and its larva completely devour the leaves and can damage the buds, seed pods, stems and stem bulbs.

Control measures: manual collection is quite effective when there are few beetles in the garden. If there are a lot of lilies or the beetle has multiplied strongly, they are treated with synthetic pyrethroids (for example, Decis, Fastak, Regent, Karate, Aktara) or drugs that are less toxic to humans (Bombardir, Confidor or Antizhuk). Plants are sprayed during the period of the mass appearance of the beetle, as well as after the larvae are found on the leaves. It is better to repeat the treatment after 7-14 days.

Aphids (Aphidoidea) usually settles on young shoots and leaves, on buds and green bolls.

Control measures: spraying with Karbofos (7.5 g per 1 l of water), Actellik (1-1.5 ml per 1 l of water).

Khrushchev, or May beetles (Melolontha melolontha), namely, their larvae - white, thick, sickle-curved, with a yellowish head - gnaw at the roots, gnaw at the bulbs, making moves in them.

Winter scoop(Agrotis segetum) - its large (up to 4 cm) caterpillar of a dirty green color lives and hibernates in the soil, gnaws at the bulbs and stems.

Measures to combat beetle and winter scoop are similar: use the drug Bazudin and other diazinon-based drugs.

Bulbous trip(Liothrips vaneeckei) has a narrow dark brown body, up to 2 mm long. Lives between the scales of the bulbs different types liliaceae, as well as onions. It sucks out cell juice, causing the appearance of yellow spots on the bulbs, as well as colorless dots or a kind of "silvery" streak on the leaves. This reduces the decorativeness of plants, and damaged areas can become a place for the penetration of pathogens.

Control measures: Aktofit drug, 0.2% k. E. (Aversectin), soaking the bulbs for 30 minutes in a 1% solution.

In recent years, flower growers are increasingly using plant substances with fungicidal and insecticidal properties. To cleanse the soil from fungi, nasturtium, marigolds, escholzia, dimorphoteka are planted in a place freed from lilies. Their volatile excretions are toxic to soil fungi and discourage nematodes. Insecticidal properties are possessed by infusions and decoctions of onions, garlic, black pepper, aloe, St. John's wort, yarrow, hemlock, aconite, wormwood, dandelion, orange peel.

You can read more about the varieties of lilies, and you can read about the growing conditions for lilies.