Why do tulips dry up. Why do Tulips have short legs? How can you help feed them? Which variety to choose for planting
Tulips - moisture-loving plants. To form a healthy bulb, which gives a beautiful peduncle, they need a lot of moisture. Moisture enters the plant as follows: first - into the bulb, then - along the stem to the flower, and lastly - to the leaves. If there is not enough moisture in the soil, the leaves will also lack it, and they will wilt. To eliminate this factor, it is necessary to thoroughly spill the tulips with water.
Perhaps watering is sufficient, but the weather is very hot. Tulips - early spring flowers and do not like heat. When planting tulips, it is better to choose places where there is no bright sun, which can be too hot in late spring or early summer. If the place is sunny, and the leaves of the tulips have drooped, try spraying the plants and cover from the sun at noon.
Nutrient deficiency
If it's not about watering, it's likely that the tulip bulbs are deficient in nutrients. The lack is also primarily reflected in the leaves. Watering will help again. This time with mineral fertilizer. If the reason is a lack of moisture, after evening watering the next morning, the leaves will again become healthy and rise. After compensating for the lack of nutrients, flowers need more time to return to normal. You can notice changes for the better in 3-4 days.Diseases and pests
But if, despite all the measures taken, the leaves remained sluggish, began to turn yellow and dry, then your tulips are sick or damaged by pests. There are about thirty fungal diseases that tulips can be exposed to. The most dangerous of them are fusarium, gray rot and sclerocial rot. They damage the bulb. And in this case, sluggish leaves can be a signal that the whole plant will die.To verify the presence of a fungal infection, it is necessary to remove one plant with drooping leaves from the soil along with the bulb and inspect. If the bulb is damaged, all plants should be treated. From fungal diseases, the ground under tulips must be watered with copper preparations ( blue vitriol). If there is no vitriol at hand - a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. You can spray all plants with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Of the pests, the onion mite is the most common on tulips. It can be found when examining the bulb in which the pest makes moves. With a plantation infected with a tick, proceed as follows. bulbs are dug up and before laying on winter storage treated with hot water +45°C for five minutes. The next year, it is better to break a flower bed with tulips in another place.
Have you ever seen large, healthy tulips in amateur gardens? Probably very, very rare. Although these joyful and bright first spring flowers are loved by everyone. With enthusiasm, people buy bulbs and plant them in their gardens in the hope that now they will certainly admire luxurious flowers every spring. Indeed, tulips differ from other bulbs, such as daffodils and hyacinths, in that they feel great in middle lane Russia. But over the years, and sometimes the very next year after planting, the bulbs become smaller, and then completely disappear. It must have happened to you too. There are many reasons for this. Let's try to figure out the most common mistakes in growing tulips.
IMMEDIATELY, such a gross violation of technology as non-annual digging of bulbs should be excluded. To better understand what's going on here, let's take a quick look at the morphology and biology of this plant. You buy bulbs in August - September. By this time, a flower bud is already fully formed in a large bulb. It is located in the center of the bulb at the top of the bottom. It is densely surrounded by 4-5 juicy, white scales, also sitting on the bottom. The structure of the bulb will be clearly visible if you cut it in half lengthwise. But it is usually a pity to ruin a tulip, so do the same with a regular bulb onion- their structure is similar.
Bulb
Tulip bulb on the outside is dressed in dense scales Brown. And below it are juicy scales containing a supply of nutrients sufficient to drive out the stem with leaves and bloom. This is the basis for forcing (obtaining flowers) bulbous in winter-spring time. The tulip bulb is an annual, although the plant itself is considered a perennial. The fact is that buds are laid between the scales of the bulb, which develop during the growth of the stem and flowering, and by the end of the growing season turn into new bulbs, in the amount of 1-5 pieces. They sit in the nest, dressed in the shell of a completely depleted mother bulb. The largest of these new bulbs is called a substitute, and the others are smaller - bulbs of the second or third analysis, even smaller - children.
If the nest of new bulbs remains in the ground, then they will lack everything - food, water, air. This is the same as unthinned seedlings of other crops - they will never grow full-fledged plants. But the tulip is all hypertrophied. I'll explain why.
The tulip is an ephemeroid with a very short growing season. After all, we plant the bulbs at the end of September, in October they take root (the roots grow up to 20 cm), bloom in May, and in June the aerial part of them already dries up. And during these four months, the bulb must take root in such a way as to endure the winter frosts, form a stem with leaves and a flower or flowers in the spring, and also give a whole nest of new bulbs, and the substitute in good conditions is not inferior in size to the mother bulb, and often exceeds her. Now we can conclude that, leaving the tulips undigged, it will no longer be possible to restore their original qualities.
In addition to annual digging, tulips, for the same reasons, need major preparation of the planting site. The plant must have enough nutrition to go through such a rapid cycle of development and growth. Along with the quality of planting material, it is the preparation of the land that will determine the success of the crop. The site must be selected on a warm slope or flat surface, in the sun or in light partial shade (scattered shade of trees), ground water should not be closer than 60 cm from the surface. Tulips love medium or light loamy soil, with a neutral reaction, very high fertility and cultivated to a depth of at least 35 cm. In Holland, the legislator of bulbous crops, up to 50 kg of manure per 1 m2 is applied under tulips before they are planted, under the predecessor. This dose is recommended for lean lands, and the average is 25 kg. organic fertilizers. It is not recommended to plant tulips on heavy, clay soils and in damp places.
The land is prepared in the spring of the year of planting or in the autumn of the previous year. In addition to organic fertilizers (it can also be humus or compost), lime is added - 200-400 g and simple superphosphate - 100 g per 1 m2. Double digging is used, with half of the fertilizers and all superphosphate mixed with the lower layer of the earth, and the second half with the upper one. Sand is added to heavy lands - up to 20 kg per 1 m2. In summer, the site can be occupied with annual flowers or green vegetables, but it must be vacated a month before planting, at the end of August. Dig up, having previously scattered potassium magnesia - 100 g per 1 m2.
The best time for planting tulips in central Russia is from September 20 to 30. It is important to maintain the planting depth - there are two more heights of the bulb above the bulb. For large ones, it will be 10-12 cm from the bottom. And the distance between the bulbs is at least two of their diameters - 7-8 cm. Small bulbs and a baby are planted smaller and denser. Sand is poured under the bottom with a layer of 3 cm, and the bulb with its head is covered with it, so that there are fewer fungal diseases.
Landing
Inspect the bulbs carefully before planting. Their skin should be clean, without spots, and the bulb itself should be hard and heavy. Remove the skin from suspicious ones and, if there are spots on the white surface, destroy the bulb. For prevention, treat healthy bulbs with 0.2% foundationazole for 30 minutes, dry and plant.
To get large flowers, extra bulbs are usually planted with a diameter of more than 4 cm and the 1st parsing, with a diameter of 3.6-4 cm - for the Darwin Hybrids class, for other classes, including Lily, Terry, Fringed, Parrot, bulbs smaller in nature.
Care
Planting care is also important, although with good land preparation it is insignificant. If the autumn is dry, then the plantings must be watered, and in such a way that moisture soaks the ground to a depth of roots - 35 cm. Then they are mulched with weathered peat with a layer of 3 cm. better growth roots. With the onset of frost, they cover with spruce branches - from mice and in case of a little snowy winter. Bulbs in autumn not only take root, but also form a sprout that almost reaches the surface of the earth. That is why in the spring so early, almost directly from under the snow, tubules of tulips appear. In severe winters, the flower bud can be damaged.
In the spring, the spruce branches are removed and the plantings are immediately fed with ammonium nitrate in the same dose as in the fall. After 10 days, they are fed again with the same saltpeter with the addition of potassium sulfate - 20 g, and after another two weeks - with one potassium sulfate, also 20 g per 1 m2. Tulips are also given 3-4 deep waterings, and they are watered until the aerial part begins to turn yellow, about two weeks after the end of flowering. It is at this time that the growth of new bulbs continues. Faded flowers must be pinched off. This technique is called decapitation. For a bouquet, tulips are cut with one or two leaves, otherwise good bulbs will not work.
Dig up the bulbs at the time of yellowing of the aerial part, without waiting for complete drying. Otherwise, the nest will crumble and some of the bulbs will remain in the ground. These bulbs will go deeper into the ground every year, it will be difficult to dig them out. The dug out bulbs are dried under a shed or in a barn for 3-4 days, then cleaned and stored in a well-ventilated area (for example, in the attic) at a temperature of 20 C until mid-August, and then at 17 C until planting, constantly monitoring their condition.
Tulip flowering is not that hard. There are certain steps that you need to follow, getting from cell to cell without changing the trajectory, and then you will achieve the result, eventually getting beautiful tulips.
Depending on the variety of tulips, their development sometimes occurs at different times, respectively, flowering also occurs at different periods. When you try to plant tulips so that they all arrive at the same time, or artificially drive them out at certain times, you can screw up somewhere, make wrong calculations and ruin the tulip harvest year.
But not everything, of course, depends on us, because there are also external conditions, which, no doubt, are quite important in the process of flowering tulips. One of the problems that is quite common is the short flower stalks of tulips. The question can be interpreted in different ways: why do tulips have short peduncles, why tulip peduncles are low, small, and so on. The bottom line is that tulip flower stalks do not meet the quality or standard at all, therefore they are much smaller even than tulip leaves, and this does not please all flower growers, especially those who grow tulips for sale.
If the reason for improper care lies with us, then most likely we all watered the tulips a little, because of this, the soil mixture did not receive required amount moisture in order to nourish the tulip bulb, and that, in turn, did not feed the tulip arrow. The solution in this case is very simple - water the tulips well, and then develop an irrigation system in such a way that the tulips will never again get sick from the fact that they are not given enough water.
There is also the option that spring (namely, when tulips are planted) was very dry, then watering also needs to be increased. Although the cause of short flower stalks in tulips did not depend on you, the solution and the essence of the problem are similar. A rapid increase in temperature can also affect. Tulips are very susceptible to any changes, so it is not known how this or that variety can react to a whole bunch of different weather manifestations. At some certain point, some complex of external anomalies can lead to negative results in the process of our cultivation.
Basically, the problem is based on these two points, therefore, by correcting it, we can restore at least some part of the crop, and also, as an option, correct a little already shredded, short peduncles, but it happens that the cause cannot be identified and all that no matter what you do, no matter how hard you try, tulips still have short flower stalks. Most likely, you just took root one or another variety. Try to plant a new one, hone your approach to caring for it, and then expect new results in the new year. Insofar as nutrients tulips are taken from the soil mixture, it is important to understand what fertilizers we apply and how they will affect the plant. if you apply low-quality fertilizers, you can thereby spoil the bulb, break it internal system circulation useful substances, and thereby worsen the flower stalks. If this is the cause, and you remember that you added something wrong to the earth mixture, remove the irritant and try to restore the balance of the open ground.
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timely and proper care growing plants allows you to get high-quality flowers and tulip bulbs, but you should not forget about the health of the plants. To do this, it is important to learn how to recognize diseases, know how to deal with them, and, more importantly, be able to prevent these diseases. Preventive measures to protect tulips include the following:
Choosing a site for tulips that meets the requirements of this plant;
- careful preparation soil before planting;
- application of organic fertilizers only under the previous crop and within the required norms;
- timely top dressing with mineral fertilizers with exact dosage, especially nitrogen fertilizers, the excess of which helps to reduce the resistance of plants to diseases;
- strict observance of the crop rotation - tulips should be grown in the same place no more than once every 4-5 years. Soil disinfection gives good results;
- careful selection and culling of diseased and suspicious bulbs, planting only healthy planting material;
- observance of the required depth and density of planting bulbs;
- timely carrying out of care activities, maintaining a good sanitary condition and cleanliness of the tulip collection;
- timely cleaning of bulbs, drying with good ventilation;
- mechanical damage to the bulbs is unacceptable, it is necessary to cull the damaged bulbs;
- use of disinfected containers for storing bulbs and tools for cutting flowers;
- removal and destruction of diseased plants along with roots and leaves.
Of course, the above measures do not give an absolute guarantee that tulips will not get sick, but compliance with these measures will significantly reduce the degree of damage to plants by diseases, the zone of their distribution will be reduced and the loss of bulb yield will decrease.
Tulips like any other ornamental plants, are damaged by a large number of different diseases and have numerous pests. Within our country, more than 30 fungal, viral and bacterial diseases of tulips are known, but many of them are quite rare. The greatest harm to tulips is caused by such fungal diseases like gray rot, fusarium, sclerotial rot. Of the viral diseases, variegation is the most dangerous. Non-communicable diseases do not pose a serious danger and arise as a result of adverse external conditions.
Fungal diseases of tulips
Gray rot
(pathogen - Botrytis tulipae) is most pronounced in rainy and cool weather, which contributes to the rapid spread of the fungus. The disease spreads very quickly, which is why it is often called a "fire". Tulips planted on heavy soils are especially affected. Gray rot affects all above-ground parts of the plant (leaves, stems, flowers and buds), as well as bulbs. Moreover, the bulbs are affected both during the growing season and during storage. Usually planted diseased bulbs or soil serve as a source of infection. On the affected parts of the plant, yellowish-gray depressed spots of various sizes and shapes appear. In a humid environment, the spots increase rapidly in size, and they are quickly covered with a gray coating of fungal spores. The tissues of a diseased plant dry up, gradually soften and become ash-gray, it seems that the plant is burned - hence another name - “tulip burn”. The stem of a diseased plant is bent, the buds do not develop, and if flowers are formed, they are deformed, ugly in shape. The growing season of diseased plants is significantly reduced, so the bulbs do not have time to grow to normal size and gradually shrink.
Affected bulbs have yellow-brown spots in a reddish halo on the outer scales. During storage, the affected bulbs soften, darken and shrivel. Sometimes with gray rot, cracking of the bottom of the bulb is observed from the center to the edges. Black sclerotia of the fungus appear on the surface of the covering scales of diseased bulbs, which become a new source of infection. If the tulip is severely affected by rot, the bulb rots during storage, and if it is weak, the disease in the form of spotting may go unnoticed, and the bulb is planted in the soil. In the spring, such a bulb will give a weakened, twisted shoot, which will gradually become brown, covered with a gray bloom and die. The spores of the fungus from such a plant are carried by the wind and infect healthy plants. In the soil, the spores of the fungus remain viable for 4 years. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to carefully examine the seedlings of tulips and destroy all diseased and suspicious plants.
Gray rot can affect tulips at all stages of development, but they become especially susceptible during the budding period. The incubation period under favorable conditions is 1-3 days. The spread of the disease contributes high humidity soil and air, dense plantings, insufficient lighting, excess nitrogen in the soil and spring frosts. Gray mold affects almost all varieties of tulips, but not all of them are susceptible to the disease to the same extent. Usually early varieties suffer less from rot, having time to finish flowering before the maximum development of the disease. Of late flowering tulips, parrot tulips are relatively stable.
Control measures: to prevent damage to the bulbs by gray rot in large flower farms, they are dusted with a mixture of TMTD, sulfur and ether-sulfonal in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 at the rate of 8-10 g per 1 kg of bulbs. TMTD is also used in the form of a solution of 0.3-0.5% concentration for dressing the bulbs before planting for 30 minutes. However, it should be remembered that dressing protects the bulbs from soil infection for a short time. Therefore, during the growing season of tulips, to protect against secondary infection, it is necessary to spray the plants. The number of treatments depends on weather conditions, the degree of infection of the soil with the infection and the condition of the plantings. As a rule, 2-3 treatments are usually sufficient. For spraying use Bordeaux mixture 1% concentration or euporen 0.5-1% concentration, which is considered the most effective tool to combat gray mold. It is advisable to spray tulips three times: at the beginning of the growing season, during the budding period and after flowering.
As a result of many years of observations, flower growers noticed that the presence of sufficient potassium and magnesium in the soil reduces the incidence of gray rot, while improving the quality of the bulbs. And planting tulips in the area where they already grew bulbous plants, increases the likelihood of disease by 4-10 times, compared with growing them in a new place. Those flower growers who try not to use chemical plant protection measures on their site can do without them. At the same time, it is important to comply with the entire range of agrotechnical measures, timely culling and destroying diseased and suspicious bulbs and plants, which will significantly reduce the degree of damage to tulips by gray rot. In addition, to improve the soil, it is recommended, after digging up the bulbs, to sow plants that produce phytoncides (calendula, marigolds, nasturtium, mustard, etc.) in the vacated area, followed by their autumn digging and embedding in the soil.
Root rot. Pathogen- mushrooms of the genus Ruthium, usually P.ultimum.
Brown spots on roots caused by the fungus Pythium sp.
In the early stages of the disease, the symptoms are reduced to partial decay of the root system, which, however, does not significantly affect the viability of the plants. Serious cases of infection lead to short stature of tulips, a decrease in the decorativeness of flowers, the roots become transparent, watery with brown streaks, break easily, later turn completely brown. Pathogen activity and disease risk increase with increasing soil moisture and soil temperatures above 0°C. Susceptibility to the disease depends on the variety.
Control measures
For cultivation in open field, greenhouse, boxes use fresh soil.
The infected substrate is disinfected with a fungicide.
It is very important that the soil is well structured and drained.
Botrytis rot. Pathogen- mushroom Botrytis cinerea.This pathogen usually invades damaged or weakened plant tissues.
Infected bulbs become dark brown and soft. They form large dull black sclerotia. Infected tulips (the Dutch call them "spotted") become brittle and may break suddenly. The flowers of diseased plants are dull in color. Severely infected specimens lag behind in development or do not germinate at all. High humidity increases the disease, which is spread by spores (conidia) and is more common on long-stored, late-planted bulbs. The use of fresh peat or steamed soil also contributes to the activation of pathogens, since these substrates do not contain natural antagonists of the pathogen.
Control measures:
A little (20%) coarse-grained sand or disinfected soil is always added to pure peat.
Before planting, the bulbs are treated with a fungicide, and then they are sprinkled with a layer of coarse sand.
Tulips are grown in open, well-ventilated areas.
Soft rot. The causative agent is some strains of the fungusPythium ultimate.From infected bulbs (they become pink, watery and secrete a characteristic bad smell as with Fusarium lesions) short shoots develop. Seedlings and roots look healthy at first, then rot. With a later (during cultivation) infection, the tips of the leaves turn yellow, the plants droop, the buds dry out just before flowering. Bulbs are usually affected in the first few weeks after planting, when the soil temperature is 12° and above.
Soft rot on bulbs
Photo from the Floriculture magazine - 2003 - No. 2
Control measures:
Same as root rot.
In addition, the bulbs are treated with a fungicide. In the first two weeks after planting the tulips, the temperature in the greenhouse is kept below 10-12°C.
White (sclerocial) rot. Pathogens - Scleritinia bulborum, Sclerotium tuliparium. There are several varieties of this disease. In one case, white rot affects the growth point and neck of the bulb, which are covered with a white felt coating, later turning brown. Sometimes the disease manifests itself in the form of weeping rot around the growing point of the bulb. Gradually, the rot covers the entire bulb, and it dies without giving a sprout. Since tulips affected by white rot die during the growing season, planting material cannot be a source of infection. Infection occurs through the soil, in which the spores of the fungus can remain viable for up to 5 years.
Acidic soils and high humidity are especially conducive to the spread of this disease. The first sign of infection of plants with white rot is uneven shoots in the spring. Affected bulbs usually do not germinate or produce very weak seedlings that gradually turn yellow and die. characteristic feature this rot is also served by the presence of a healthy root system in a diseased plant, which is not affected by the fungus. Watery spots appear on the shoots of affected plants, which turn bluish-gray.
Control measures: the soil, previously well-treated, is shed a month before planting the bulbs with a 2.5-3% solution (up to 6%) of carbation at the rate of 10 l / m 2. The soil treated with a 6% solution is watered. Sick bulbs, together with the aerial part of the plant, are removed with a clod of earth and destroyed. The place of excavation is sprinkled with ashes. To prevent this disease, it is also necessary to observe a cultural rotation and return tulips to their original place no earlier than after 5 years. Do not plant them after lilies, daffodils, irises and crocuses, also affected by this disease. If it is impossible to transplant tulips to a new place, the infected soil must be disinfected with a 1.5% formalin solution at the rate of 10 l / m 2. After processing, carried out at a positive temperature, the soil is tightly covered for 2-3 days. Formalin also disinfects tools, tools, boxes with which the infection can be spread.
Typhulosis- one of the varieties of sclerocial rot. Pathogen - Typhula bolealis. The first signs of the disease are reddish sprouts, non-unfolding leaves, stunting, emerging buds remain underdeveloped. Affected plants show yellowing of the roots, which then die off. The bottom of the bulb rots, and the plant dies completely. Typhulosis spreads especially strongly after a warm winter and a humid spring (low positive temperatures and humidity are favorable for the development of this disease). The source of infection is usually lightly infected bulbs that have fallen into storage and on the beds. The carriers of the disease are weeds on which the causative agent of the disease lives, as well as the soil that serves as a carrier of spores of the fungus.
Control measures: removal and destruction of affected plants, timely weeding and removal of weeds from the site, thorough inspection and culling of bulbs during storage and their dusting chemicals before boarding. The site, after digging up the tulips, must be deeply dug with the turnover of the reservoir, since at great depths the spores of the fungus do not germinate and die over time (after 70-80 days). Bulbs dug out from the site where typhulosis was observed, it is desirable to pickle in a solution of 0.5% potassium permanganate. If chemical disinfection of the soil is carried out (1.5% formalin solution at the rate of 10 l / m 2), then deep digging can be abandoned.
Fusarium, or wet rot causes great damage to tulips. Pathogen - Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. tulipae. Most often, the disease manifests itself by the end of the growing season, the development of the disease is facilitated by an increase in air temperature to 20 ° C or more. Infection occurs through the bottom and roots, and in a young bulb through the covering scales. Plants with Fusarium bloom poorly, their peduncles are short and thin, size The roots of such tulips are poorly developed and have a yellowish-brown color.
Fusarium infection
Photo from the Floriculture magazine - 2003 - No. 1
Fusarium can cause great damage during storage of the bulbs. During storage, bulbs affected by Fusarium rot, and during this period, large losses in the yield of bulbs are possible. Brown spots appear on the bottom of the infected bulb, clearly delimited along the edge by a red-brown line. Gradually, the spots darken, the rot penetrates the bulb, and it rots, releasing a sharp specific smell. Diseased bulbs in storage are a serious source of infection, and the disease can spread quickly as spores land on healthy bulbs. This is also facilitated by the temperature in the storage (above 25 ° C) and high humidity. Spores that have fallen on healthy bulbs during storage can cause their death already in storage or in the next growing season. The causative agent of Fusarium is highly resistant to adverse conditions. external environment and remains viable for a long time. The greatest activity of the fungus is manifested at a temperature of about 25 ° C and air humidity over 90%. Tulips differ greatly in their resistance to Fusarium, but there are no varieties that are absolutely not affected by this disease.
Control measures: annual change of site and return to the previous one no earlier than in 5-6 years, timely digging of bulbs, thorough inspection of plantings and bulbs in storage and culling of diseased and suspicious bulbs. Highly effective in the fight against fusarium have drugs such as uzgen, fundazol and benlayt. 2-3 weeks before planting or immediately before, the bulbs are treated with a suspension of the drug (0.2-0.25%) for 30 minutes. In order for the drug to better adhere to the bulbs, you can apply dusting of pre-moistened bulbs.
Rhizoctonia disease. Pathogen- Rhizoctonia solani.The symptoms of this disease vary depending on the cultivation method. So, when grown in a greenhouse, orange-brown spots and stripes appear on the seedlings. Later, the affected tissue cracks, the ends lower leaves fold back, but the flowers look healthy. With a more intense infection, the lower leaves and the underground part of the stem are damaged, on which oval, deeply depressed spots are formed. Such tulips are stunted and break off easily. When cultivating in boxes, after bringing them into the greenhouse, small brown-black spots and stripes are visible on the shoots. Despite the damage to the ends of the lower leaves, the plants bloom normally. Susceptibility to the disease depends on the variety. The fungus infects many agricultural and garden plants, including potatoes, lettuce, tomatoes, chrysanthemums, cereals. Therefore, infection can occur even if the previous crop was not tulips. The pathogen develops well at 15-18°. The disease is favored by high humidity and the acidic reaction of the substrate, thickened planting.
Symptoms of infection with the fungus Rhizoctonia solani on the leaves
Photo from the Floriculture magazine - 2003 - No. 2
Control measures:
The infected substrate is steamed, the soil bordering the greenhouse is treated with a fungicide, which is carefully mixed with the top (10 cm) layer.
Distillation boxes are washed and dried well.
With a 5-degree forcing technology, tulips are planted in such a way that the top of the bulbs remains above the substrate.
Plantings in boxes are mulched with coarse sand or fine gravel, without falling asleep on the tops of the bulbs.
Damaged leaves are removed.
Rhizoctonia. Pathogen- Rhizoctonia tuliparum.This fungus does not produce spores and usually infects bulbous plants at soil temperatures below 13°C. It spreads by contact-mechanical means, through planting material. With the constant cultivation of tulips in the same planting site, they can suffer greatly from the disease.
Typical symptoms of rhizoctoniosis on the bulb
Affected plants do not come out of the soil. They have a well developed root system, however, the infected sprout develops normally at first, but soon begins to rot. Sometimes the soil around the bulb and shoot is permeated with mycelium. Often it contains sclerotia, shape, color, the size of which varies greatly. On the scales of the bulbs appear large brown spots with gray mold. On a cross-section of a bulb, which usually rots, characteristic brown rings are visible. The focus of infection is usually well visible due to plants that are stunted and die prematurely. In heated greenhouses, at 20 °, the development of the disease stops.
Control measures:
Fresh substrate is used in boxes, it is updated in open ground.
Infected soil is steamed or treated with a fungicide.
Infected substrate is not stored near greenhouses.
Sick plants are destroyed.
Distillation boxes are cleaned, washed and dried well.
Planting material is treated with a fungicide.
late boarding bulbs significantly reduces the risk of disease.
Trichoderma. Pathogen- Trichoderma sp.This fungus is usually present in peat-based substrates. Infected roots become glassy, covered with fungal hyphae and rot over time. The ends of the leaves of diseased plants become light gray. At a later stage, the affected tissue turns white and quickly dries out. Tulips are more likely to get sick when forcing late in boxes with a pure peat substrate. Susceptible cultivars include 'Ad Rem', 'Angelique', 'Coriolanus', 'Kis Nelis', 'Pax", "Prominence", "Rosario", etc.
Brown coloration of the roots caused by the fungus Trichoderma sp.
Photo from the Floriculture magazine - 2003 - No. 2
Control measures:
Pure peat is always mixed with coarse sand or uncontaminated garden soil in equal proportions, fine-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the box with a layer of 1 cm.
In the rooms where rooting takes place, a high relative humidity (90-95%) is maintained so that the roots growing through the cracks of the boxes do not dry out.
Penicillosis appears on tulips during the growing season at high humidity, affects the bulbs, for a long time stored for spring forcing. Sick bulbs are covered with yellow-brown spots with a bluish bloom, plants lag behind in growth and form weak flower stalks. The death of the plant occurs only with a strong infection with the disease. This disease is not as harmful as sclerotial rot, and usually accompanies gray mold or other diseases of tulips. Infection of healthy bulbs with penicillosis is possible through mechanical damage in the scales and bottom.
Control measures: the main attention to prevent penicillosis should be paid to compliance with the rules for storing bulbs and creating optimal conditions for the growth and development of tulips during the growing season. If affected bulbs are found in storage, they should be pickled in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried.
Viral diseases of tulips
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variegation- the most common viral disease of tulips. This disease is as old as the history of the tulips themselves in Europe. Back in 1576, Professor Clusius noted the appearance of variegated banding in tulips. But for a long time the reason causing it was unknown and the sign of variegation was considered varietal. From the very beginning of the cultivation of tulips, varieties with variegated flowers were considered the most valuable, many flower growers sought to obtain such tulips. It is obvious that almost all tulips with variegated petals were infected with viruses, and only in some this trait was genetically fixed. Varieties with variegated or striped petals still exist today. And only in 1928 it was established that variegation is a disease of a viral nature. This virus not only changes the color of the flower, but also affects other decorative and biological features: infected plants are weaker, their flower stalk is shorter, and the weight of the bulbs also decreases. Such tulips will continue to bloom and grow for many, many years, but the variety gradually degenerates - the disease destroys the main characteristics inherent only to this variety. Such plants are no longer of value and should be discarded. Although even today there are lovers who like colorful tulips.
This disease is caused by the mosaic virus, or mottling. It affects only plants of the lily family. In diseased plants, the formation of a coloring pigment, anthocyanin, is disrupted. The virus changes the color of the flower, it becomes heterogeneous. Depending on the initial color of the variety, the virus on the flowers manifests itself differently. So, in pink, purple and lilac varieties, the color of the flower becomes heterogeneous: strokes appear on the edge of the petals on a white or yellow background, and in the middle of the petal - asymmetrically arranged stripes against the background of the original color of the variety. Red, dark red and purple tulips have their own color intensified in the form of strokes and stripes of a darker color. In this case, it is much more difficult to distinguish viral plants. It is even more difficult to recognize the presence of the virus in white and yellow varieties, since hatching on such colors is not noticeable at all. But upon closer examination, one can detect symptoms of the disease: a decrease in flowers and the general habit of the plant, narrowing of the petals, especially in the lower part. Strokes and faint stripes of a pale green color sometimes appear on the stems and leaves. Near the stem, the petals do not touch each other, and gaps seem to form between them.
The variegation virus spreads with the juice of diseased plants, and it is carried by different kinds aphids, thrips, leafhoppers, bedbugs, whiteflies and other insects. Since the mass appearance of these insects is observed in the second half of May, then varieties of medium and late flowering are affected by the pest virus, mainly. Early-flowering varieties, including varieties from the Kaufman, Foster and Greig classes, are also susceptible to this virus, but by the time aphids appear, the aerial part of these tulips has already died off, and infection of the bulbs becomes impossible. Often infection occurs as a result of mechanical damage and when cutting flowers - through cutting tools.
Control measures: there are no special pesticides to combat the variegation virus, so the only way to reduce the likelihood of infection of tulips is to carry out preventive measures, namely: removal and destruction of diseased plants along with the bulb, infected plants are buried in deep pits and sprinkled with burnt lime. To prevent the disease in the vicinity of tulips, it is better not to plant lilies, on which the virus can be without visible signs of illness, and planting tulips after lilies is simply unacceptable. Another measure to prevent mottling is the thorough disinfection of tools for cutting flowers. In order to avoid the transfer of the variegation virus from diseased plants to healthy ones, one knife cannot be used to cut flowers and decapitate. Experienced flower growers usually used for cutting a few dozen razor blades. After use, the cutting tool is disinfected with potassium permanganate, alcohol, soda solution or formalin, or simply boiled. The chance of transmitting the virus is further reduced if the flowers are broken off by hand. One of the preventive measures is the cultivation of large bulbs from the baby, since it is believed that in most varieties of tulips the baby is immune to the mottling virus. And since the main carriers of the virus are aphids, it is important to monitor their appearance on tulip plantings and fight them in a timely manner.
Control measures: removal and destruction of infected plants with a clod of earth. Timely destruction of weeds that can serve as a source of infection. The soil after diseased plants must be disinfected, and the land used for forcing must be steamed. After such treatment, the spores of the fungus die. And one of the main preventive measures is strict observance of cultural circulation. Even when planting absolutely healthy planting material in an area where diseased tulips have already grown, re-infection cannot be avoided.
Non-infectious diseases of tulips
Mostly, these diseases appear during forcing and are usually caused by adverse external conditions.
The appearance of "blind" buds most often occurs during forcing, but can also occur when growing tulips in open ground. When planting tulips too early, when the soil temperature is still quite high, the bulb actively starts to grow, but the roots develop poorly. This violation of the growth process leads to the appearance of "blind" buds. Another reason for the appearance of “blind” buds is bulbs that are sick with Fusarium. It has been established that bulbs infected with Fusarium emit ethylene, which has a detrimental effect on healthy bulbs and causes the appearance of “blind” buds. Planting diseased bulbs leads to the fact that healthy bulbs growing nearby do not bloom.
Control measures: compliance with the terms of planting and storage conditions of the bulbs, careful culling of tulips infected with Fusarium.
drooping peduncle also commonly observed during distillation. A glassy spot with droplets of moisture appears on the upper part of the stem. The tissue of the plant in this place is wrinkled, and the stem droops. Such a lesion may appear anywhere on the stem or on the leaves, but it usually appears in the upper, most actively growing part. This disease is associated with calcium deficiency in plant tissues when too rapid growth tulip caused by high temperature. Calcium, in comparison with other elements, is much more slowly absorbed by the plant and transported by it for a longer time. More often, the disease manifests itself in plants dug out too early, the bulbs of which did not have time to ripen.
Control measures: maintaining correct temperature regime, containment during distillation of too active growth of tulips by lowering the temperature. In addition, it is useful during active growth to water the tulips with a 1.5% solution of calcium nitrate or apply fertilizers containing calcium before planting in the soil.
lime disease observed during bulb storage. The bulbs, as it were, are saturated with lime, while becoming hard and white. The disease manifests itself in the case of premature digging of tulips, when the bulbs have not yet matured, as well as at elevated temperature and humidity in the storage.
Control measures: compliance with the terms of digging bulbs, maintaining optimal storage conditions.
Gum treatment bulbs is caused by excessive sunlight. Plants become most sensitive to light at the end of April and in the first half of May. The disease often affects them during this period. Yellowish and bluish-brown spots appear on the storage scales of the bulbs, from which a colorless liquid begins to ooze, forming sagging when dried. Such bulbs are not carriers of infection and are quite healthy, normal plants grow from them. However, disease spots can become a site for pathogens to enter the bulb and cause the plant to become infected with another disease.
Control measures: timely digging of bulbs, shading them during harvesting to avoid sunburn. Pickling bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate. Maintaining optimal storage conditions.
Pests
Root onion mite- most dangerous pest, damaging not only tulips, but also many other types of bulbous and bulbous plants. This insect is less than 1 mm long, light yellow in color, shiny. The tick penetrates between the scales of the bulb, bites into its tissues, while the bulb quickly rots and may no longer germinate. If the bulb nevertheless germinates, then it gives a stunted weakened plant, an escape. During the growing season, the growth of such tulips is delayed, they turn yellow, the quality of flowers deteriorates, and the leaves die prematurely. Such plants usually become targets for other diseases and die quickly. In some bulbs, small passages and cavities filled with brownish powder can be found - this is a typical sign of mite damage.
Bulbs can also be damaged by onion mites during storage if the pest remains on old scales and roots. It reproduces especially well at a temperature of about 25 ° C and an air humidity of more than 70%. Under unfavorable conditions, ticks go into a dormant stage and can remain viable for a long time. In mite-infected bulbs, the outer surface of the scales is gradually covered with brown dust, the bulbs rot and dry out. The pest spreads through the soil, with planting material, or is carried on tools during tillage.
Control measures: careful inspection of the bulbs during digging and storage and removal of mite-affected plants. Collection and destruction after digging up all plant residues. Before laying for storage, planting material must be pickled for 10-15 minutes in a 0.3% solution of Celtan or Rogor, then dried and stored in normal conditions. You can sprinkle the bulbs with chalk, which sticks to the body of the mites, and they die from drying out. An effective way to deal with onion mites is to heat the bulbs. Affected bulbs are immersed in hot water(35-40 °С) for 5 min. It is better to plant the treated bulbs on a separate bed. If a tick is found on tulips during their growing season, they are sprayed with a 0.2% solution of Rogor or Celtan, but it is better to dig up and destroy the infected plants. On a site infected with onion mites, it is impossible to grow bulbous and bulbous plants for 3-4 years. For a preventive purpose, after digging up tulips (or other bulbs), plants resistant to this pest are planted on the site: tagetes, feverfew, tomatoes, radishes and others.
greenhouse aphid attacks tulips during forcing. This insect is up to 2 mm long, oval, yellow, green or pinkish in color, wingless (winged individuals appear during the breeding season). Aphids appear on the stems, leaves and peduncles of tulips, but can also damage the bulbs. The pest feeds on plant sap. Parts of the plant damaged by aphids become deformed and may die. But aphid brings much more harm as a possible carrier of viral diseases, especially variegation.
Control measures: good results in the fight against aphids are obtained by the use of various pesticides. The use of insecticidal plants (feverfew, tagetes and many others) that are planted next to tulips also has a healing effect. It is also important to strictly observe their dosage when applying fertilizers, since overfeeding with nitrogen reduces the resistance of plants to diseases and pests, including aphids.
onion hoverfly damages mainly daffodils and amaryllis, but also occurs on tulips. The onion hoverfly is a greenish fly up to 1 cm long. But the main harm to tulips is not caused by the fly itself, but by its larvae, which appear in June and (the second generation) in September. The larvae penetrate the tulip bulb through the bottom and make moves in it. Affected bulbs do not grow well and do not produce flower stalks, the leaves of such a tulip turn yellow and wither ahead of time, and if severely damaged, the plant may die. Fly larvae overwinter in bulbs, in soil and in storage.
Control measures: removal and destruction during the growing season of plants affected by onion hoverfly, otherwise the pest can move on to healthy bulbs. After digging, the bulbs can be disinfected in a 0.75% solution of karbofos for 5-10 minutes. You can destroy the larvae in the bulb by applying heat treatment. Keep the infected bulbs in hot water (at a temperature not exceeding 43 ° C) for 2 hours. As an effective method of combating this pest, deep autumn digging of the soil with a layer turnover is also recommended. Reduces the spread of onion hoverflies by mulching the soil with peat, as it prevents egg laying. Repels flies from planting tulips by dusting the soil with naphthalene. As a prophylactic, it is useful to plant plants that produce phytoncides along the perimeter of the beds with tulips. Watering plantings of tulips with infusion is also effective. wood ash(500 g per 10 l of water) at the rate of 5 l / m 2.
Purple Owl causes the greatest damage to tulips in the larval stage. The lilac scoop itself is a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 5 cm, which lays eggs on plant stems in August-September. Its reddish-purple caterpillars bite into the tulip stem at the root neck and make moves in it, then the caterpillar moves to a neighboring plant, and so on. Often, plants damaged by caterpillars die. The eggs of the lilac scoop hibernate on plants and plant debris.
Control measures: timely weeding, collection and destruction of plant residues. In May-June, dusting the lower part of the stems of tulips with naphthalene or other preparations is used.
Khrushchi(larvae may beetles) damage the roots and bulbs of tulips. A white fleshy larva 4-6 cm long, with a dark brown head, develops in the soil for 4-5 years, feeding first on humus and then on plant food.
Control measures: an effective tool is deep digging of the soil with the turnover of the layer and the collection of larvae. This is also facilitated by frequent loosening of the soil.
wireworms damage tulip bulbs during their active growth, gnawing their passages. Such bulbs easily rot and are affected by other diseases. Wireworms are the larvae of the click beetle that look like pieces of copper wire, which is where they get their name from. Beetles lay their eggs in the soil near the root neck of plants. Particularly favorable for laying are places overgrown with weeds, especially couch grass and thistle, which are the main food of wireworms. Beetles and larvae overwinter in the soil.
Control measures: timely and systematic removal of weeds, deep digging and loosening of the soil. Reducing soil acidity by adding lime, chalk or ash, as wireworms prefer acidic soils. Laying baits (pieces of potatoes, beets) and planting bait plants (wheat, oats, corn, barley) also help to reduce the pest population. The introduction of ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate into the soil in the amount of 20-30 g / m 2 creates unfavourable conditions for the reproduction of beetles and leads to a reduction in the number of their larvae.
Medvedka Causes significant damage to plants, gnawing their stems and roots. This insect is brown in color, 4-5 cm long, its front legs are adapted for making moves. The bulk of the passages is at a depth of 2-4 cm, the pest goes deeper only for wintering and for laying eggs. Around its nest, the bear destroys all plants so that the nest warms up well (it is usually located at a depth of 10-15 cm), which serves as a good guide for finding and destroying its nests. You can also detect the presence of a bear on the site by numerous holes and passages in the soil, which become especially noticeable after rain or watering.
Control measures: bear nests are destroyed during deep loosening of the soil or digging, while the eggs and larvae thrown to the surface die. The most common pest control method is laying traps. Starting in spring, sheets of plywood, slate, iron, etc. are laid out on the site, under which the insect crawls to bask. It remains only to regularly review the traps and destroy pests. The use of bait pits is especially effective. In early autumn, holes up to 0.5 m deep are dug on the site and filled with manure. Insects settle in such pits for the winter. After that, with the onset of frost, manure from the pit is scattered, and the pests die. In the same way, you can deal with bears in early spring. To do this, small heaps of manure are laid out around the site, in which the bears arrange oviposition. Periodically, once a month, heaps of manure are examined and pests are collected. You can catch the bear and water traps. To do this, banks filled with water are buried in the ground so that it does not reach the edges by 8-10 cm. Once in the water, the pest cannot get out of it. It remains only to bypass the traps every morning and destroy the pests that have fallen into them.
Slugs and snails cause a lot of trouble, especially in wet weather. They eat young shoots and leaves of tulips, gnaw holes in the bulbs.
Control measures: effectively in the fight against slugs, dusting the soil with tobacco dust or other means. In addition, traps are laid out around the site (pieces of plywood, boards, wet rags, bunches of fresh grass, etc.), under which quite a lot of slugs gather. Traps are regularly inspected and destroy pests.
mouse rodents cause damage to tulip bulbs during their growth and especially during storage.
Control measures: laying out poisonous baits in storage, dusting the bulbs with iron minium, which reduces the attractiveness of the bulbs for mouse-like rodents, arranging mousetraps.
N. Malova "Tulips" - M.: OLMA-PRESS, 2001. - 96s.
IBC materials "Forcing bulbs: diseases and control measures" // "Floriculture" - 2003 - No. 1,2
Tulips can be affected by fungal, bacterial, viral and non-infectious diseases. Carrying out preventive measures allows you to protect tulips from most of them. In our article - the most common diseases of tulips with a photo, as well as ways to treat them.
Fungal diseases of tulips
The most common fungal diseases include:
1. Fusarium (wet rot) infects tulip bulbs, penetrating through the roots and bottom. Sick plants give short peduncles and roots, small buds. The disease is expressed by a putrid odor and the appearance of brown spots on the bulb, leading to its softening and decay.
Pre-planting treatment with a 0.2-0.25% solution of fundazol or uzgen bulbs will protect tulips from disease.
One of the most common diseases of tulips is Fusarium.
Attention! Fusarium causes the greatest damage during storage of bulbs, leading to significant losses of planting material. The spread of Fusarium is facilitated by the microclimate of the storage - high humidity in combination with t° from +25°C.
2. Gray rot - a disease transmitted through infected bulbs. It appears as brown spots, eventually causing darkening and wrinkling of the bulbs.
An infected plant serves as a source of infection for other flowers. With a mild disease, the signs of damage on the bulb are practically not noticeable, appearing on the regrown aerial parts in the form of gray-yellow spots that increase during wet weather and become covered with a gray coating. The disease causes softening and drying of tissues, leads to deformation of peduncles, leaves and buds, in some cases - to the absence of flowering.
To protect plants from gray rot will help compliance with the rules for growing tulips and storing bulbs. Dug out bulbs before storage should be pickled with foundationazole (0.2% solution) within 30 minutes. Re-treatment of the bulbs is carried out immediately before planting. During the growing season, to protect against infection with gray rot, it is recommended to spray tulips 2-3 times with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or euporen (0.5-1%), for the first time - after the emergence of sprouts, the second time - after 2 weeks.
3. Soft rot - a disease that affects tulip bulbs, making them watery, turning pink. Infected bulbs are easy to recognize due to the putrid odor emanating from them. When tulips are affected during the growing season, the disease is manifested by yellowing of the tips of the leaves, leading to premature drying of the buds. protect tulips from soft rot treating the bulbs with a fungicide will help.
Attention! The disease affects the bulbs in the first weeks after planting in greenhouses, if the soil t° exceeds 12° C, therefore it is recommended to maintain the soil t° at 10° C for the first 2 weeks.
Viral diseases of tulips
1. Necrotic spotting (August disease), manifests itself in the form of brown stripes, causing drying and cracking of plant tissues. As a result, infected tulips gradually dry out, or while remaining viable, form deformed buds, and in some cases do not bloom.
Brown spots appear on the bulbs, which are also transmitted to children. Sick plants become susceptible to fungal diseases.
Compliance with the rules of cultivation and crop rotation will protect tulips from necrotic spotting. Affected plants are to be destroyed, along with an earthy clod.
Attention! The disease of necrotic spotting is most susceptible to early varieties tulips.
2. Variegation - the disease is expressed by a violation of the formation of pigment - the appearance of a variegated color of the buds, leading to a change in cellular characteristics and degeneration of plants. The carriers of the disease are insects: thrips, aphids, whiteflies and others.
Attention! The disease variegation will spread with plant sap, so the source of damage is often cutting tools used for cutting flowers.
The destruction of harmful insects and the timely destruction of diseased plants, the rejection of the joint cultivation of lilies and tulips, and the disinfection of cutting tools with a solution of potassium permanganate, soda or alcohol will help protect tulips from disease.
Non-infectious diseases of tulips
The source of this type of disease are adverse external factors.
1. The drooping of the peduncle is caused by a lack of calcium in the tissues during the period of accelerated growth caused by elevated temperature. The cause of the disease is an unripe bulb, dug out too early. The disease manifests itself in the form of a glassy spot in the upper part of the plant. Compliance with the temperature regime, additional fertilizing with fertilizers containing calcium will help prevent the development of the disease.
The absence of flowers in tulips - too early planting or improper storage of bulbs
2. Blind buds appear as a result of violation of the rules for storing bulbs. The second reason is early planting in insufficiently cooled soil, due to which the bulbs actively start growing, while the root system practically does not develop, causing a growth imbalance. The second cause of the disease is infection of the bulbs with Fusarium. Planting such bulbs provokes a lack of flowering in neighboring healthy tulips.
Compliance with the conditions for planting bulbs (soil t ° + 5-10 ° C), ensuring appropriate storage conditions, and rejecting bulbs infected with Fusarium will help prevent the development of the disease.
3. Lime disease affects tulips if the bulbs are stored in damp rooms with high temperatures. The cause of the disease is the digging of immature bulbs. The disease is expressed by the appearance of white hard spots on the bulbs.
Features of prevention
Carrying out certain activities can significantly reduce the level of diseases and reduce the area of their distribution:
- careful selection of the site, in accordance with the requirements of growing tulips;
- preparation of the soil, the introduction of the necessary fertilizers into it;
- when cultivating tulips in a greenhouse - an annual change of soil;
- soil treatment with fungicides before planting bulbs;
- compliance with crop rotation conditions when growing in open ground - re-planting tulips in one place is possible after 4 years;
- competent carrying out of top dressing with the help of mineral fertilizers. Overdose nitrogen fertilizers leads to a decrease in the resistance of tulips to diseases;
- compliance with the landing conditions, the absence of thickening.
- carrying out weeding, timely destruction of infected plants;
- rejection of diseased and mechanically damaged bulbs;
- storage of bulbs in appropriate conditions and using disinfected containers.
Tulips, distinguished by a variety of shapes and colors, are popular garden flowers. The ability to recognize signs of diseases and knowledge of how to deal with them, and most importantly, how to prevent the development of diseases in flowers, will allow you to grow beautiful and healthy tulips, and, accordingly, receive high-quality planting material for their breeding.
