How to plant the perfect lawn. Preparing the soil for sowing a lawn How to tamp the ground under the lawn

After building a house and cleaning up the debris, it's time to improve the site. I remembered the old dream of a lawn - a lawn with emerald grass, without beds of vegetables. Just near the house there was a free space not occupied by agricultural land. It was decided to give it to the lawn. I began to read information on this topic, then - to plan in what sequence to carry out the work and what seeds to plant. I want to say right away that laying a lawn is a matter of many months. Personally, I have all the stages, from the beginning earthworks before the contemplation of a decent-looking lawn, took about a year. I will tell you how it was with me - I will share my experience, which, I hope, will help novice "lawn growers" avoid many mistakes.

After studying the information on the topic, I came to the conclusion that the best views grass for the lawn (in our conditions) is meadow bluegrass and red fescue. I started looking for a suitable mixture in stores. Most of the compositions - necessarily ryegrass, which in our climate is not ice at all. For warm Europe - excellent, suitable, but our ryegrass freezes in winter, in the spring such a lawn wakes up noticeably thinner. As a result, I stumbled upon a suitable single-species mixture - from the varieties of one meadow bluegrass True Blue Kentucky Bluegrass. Entirely bluegrass lawn ... Why not? Of course, the first years will have to take care of him carefully, at first the bluegrass is capricious. But such a lawn with proper care considered one of the most decorative. It has been decided - there will be a bluegrass lawn!

So, I bought bluegrass seeds - 30% more than the manufacturer recommended. This is important as some of the material may not germinate.

For myself, I brought out the following scheme for laying a lawn:

In the spring and summer, I prepare the soil: I plan, cultivate, level, roll in.
In early August, I carry out herbicidal treatment, get rid of weeds.
At the end of August - I fertilize the soil and sow the lawn. I take care of the seedlings: I water, mow, fight weeds.

In this situation, that is, when sowing at the end of summer, the lawn will have time to grow and get stronger before the cold weather begins. In winter, he will leave already formed, with dense sod. And in the spring it will look quite presentable.

I also adhered to this scheme.

Step 2. Earthwork

I started preparing the land for the lawn in the spring, in April. Perhaps this is the most difficult stage on which it depends future species lawn. Work is carried out in the following sequence: cultivation, leveling, packing (tamping). Rolling and tamping is usually repeated several times. This is what I read on smart sites and which I decided to follow unconditionally.

The area chosen for laying out the lawn

Initially, the soil on the site is heavy loam. It seems to be not bad, but for the lawn, as I understand it, looser soil is needed. Therefore, to improve and drain the structure, I drove and scattered peat and sand on the site.

It turned out the following: at the bottom I have a loam pillow, on top - a mixture of sand and peat. In order to mix all the ingredients and get rid of the weeds, I plowed the area by means of it.

Plowing with a cultivator allows you to loosen the soil, make it homogeneous and remove weeds

Such a cultivator was used for plowing a plot for a lawn.

Now it was necessary to level the site. How? At first I thought to take a rake, but I have a large playground - 5 acres, I can't get a smooth lawn. I decided to go the other way. He took out an aluminum ladder 6 meters from the shed and tied a rope to its edges.

I put a load on top for weight - a channel with stones inside. It turned out something like a modernized building regulation, with whom I walked up and down the site. Where necessary he leveled, in some places he poured earth. The process was controlled by a laser level.

Leveling the microrelief of the site is an important component preparatory work to create a lawn

After leveling, I walked with a roller. I spilled the earth well. The process of leveling-tamping-watering was repeated many times, within two months, with level control. By the middle of summer, after the rains, two hours later it was already possible to walk on the compacted area - there were practically no traces left. Then I thought that this land work could be finished.

If the soil is sufficiently compacted, it should not leave deep marks when walking

Step 3. Herbicide treatment

Initially, I was generally against the use of herbicides. But ... It seems that he plowed the land, and during the summer he constantly pulled out malicious weeds, but they all grew and grew. The prospect of endless weeding was not encouraging, especially since the sowing time was inexorably approaching. So I spilled the rammed pad, waited for the weeds to appear, and pickled them with Roundup.

Then he removed the dried grass. In two weeks, it was possible to start sowing. By the way, by this time, the young weeds had climbed up again, but I pulled them out quickly - on the prepared soil it is not difficult.

The material on ways to control weeds on the lawn will also be useful:

Step 4. Fertilizing the lawn

As I understand it, some do not fertilize their lawns at all or fertilize them once a year with something long-lasting. Probably, this approach takes place, but only on fertile soils, in which nutrients are initially laid. The soil on my plot is not very nutritious, so I decided to go the traditional way and still fertilize before sowing.

At this stage, the Texas seeder was very useful to me, with which you can not only scatter seeds, but also bulk fertilizers too. At first I spilled the earth well, then I walked along it with a seeder, introduced ammophos (nitrogen and phosphorus content 12-52) - 2 kg per hundred square meters, and also potassium chloride - 0.5 kg per hundred square meters. In pre-sowing fertilization, special attention is paid to phosphorus. It accelerates seed germination and activates the formation of the root system. Then, with basic care, other fertilizers will be needed for the lawn.

Fertilizing before sowing lawn seeds will speed up their germination

After spreading the pellets, I pulled myself into a small harrow and went to loosen the soil. The harrow is optional, you can use the rake.

Step 5. Sowing seeds

And then sowing began. I mixed the seeds with sand, then divided the entire volume of the mixture into two piles. I loaded the seeder in one portion, sowed in the longitudinal direction. The second portion of seeds went for sowing in the transverse direction. After finishing, I walked over the sown with a rake in order to plant some seeds in the ground. No more than 1 cm, so as not to be washed away by rain and blown away by the wind.

Lawn grass seeds can be slightly patched up by loosening the soil with a rake.

Just in case, he rolled the crops with a roller. And he began to wait for the shoots.

I would like to draw your attention to the following point. I timed the sowing for the 20th of August. At this time, as a rule, the drying heat is gone, the season of rains and cloudy weather begins. My lawn is lucky in this regard. After sowing, the weather was cloudy, cool, it often rained, so there was no need to water before germination. If you choose a different sowing date, for example, at the beginning of summer (in general, you can sow a lawn from May to September), then you will have to constantly monitor so that the seeds do not dry out. The soil must be constantly moist, only then can the seeds germinate.

In the heat, you will have to water it 2-4 times a day, otherwise you will have to put an end to the experiment with the lawn - nothing will rise or will rise in certain areas (where the soil is more moisture-consuming or in the shade). To simplify the watering task a little, in a roast or dry time year, it is desirable to cover the sown area with agrofibre - "Spandex", "Agrospan", etc. Under the material, the seeds will be protected from moisture loss, wind, and hot sun. Therefore, under agrofibre, the lawn grass grows faster than on open areas... However, as soon as she ascended, it is recommended to remove the "greenhouse". And take care of the lawn as usual.

Step 6. Care of the first shoots

The first shoots of my bluegrass lawn appeared on the 10th day of sowing. They were small thin strings, uneven seedlings. I thought I would have to sow, but no. With a delay of a couple of days, the lagging seeds hatched.

It is better not to move on a young, newly-sprung lawn, so as not to trample small blades of grass

It was at this time that the warming began, there was no rain for some time. I placed sprayers around the area and watered the young borings every day in the morning. Seedlings are very tender, as soon as they dry out a little - everyone dies. The ground should be constantly slightly moist until the sprouts have a more or less developed root system. From my own experience, this happens when the blades of grass reach 4-5 cm. After that, you can relax a little. But just a little bit. Before the first mowing, drying out the soil can be detrimental to the lawn, it is very sensitive to drought.

I really hoped that the cold would not come ahead of time and that I would have time to mow the lawn for the first time, form a beautiful carpet and look at my handiwork in all its glory. And so it happened. After 3 weeks, the grass stand reached a height of about 8 cm, it was possible to mow. In the morning I spilled the lawn well, took out the lawn mower - and off you go! I cut off no more than the upper third of the blades of grass so as not to damage the young plants. I liked the result: an even, fairly dense rug of a pleasant color. After the mowing, it rained. Until winter, I did not water or mow the lawn. The experiment and observation of the lawn were continued the following spring.

In October, the lawn was mowed for the first time

Step 7. Measures for the care of a young lawn

In the spring, after the snow melted, the lawn sat “motionless” for a long time, probably because of the cold. As there were small sprouts, they remained, the color also left much to be desired - some kind of grayish-yellow. But half-forgotten weeds appeared. At first I tried to pull them out, and then etched with Lintur. The weeds have shrunk, then there were fewer of them - the lawn itself gradually forms a dense turf and displaces unwanted "neighbors". And mowing does not work on them in the best way.

The material on possible diseases and lawn pests:

After winter, the color of the lawn is poor

The visible growth of the lawn began when the ground warmed up enough, to a temperature of 10-15 ° C. Now you can look at the result - the grass stand is fully formed, survived the winter well and got stronger.

The lawn has already grown and turned green - May

Bluegrass lawn fully formed - June

I carry out subsequent lawn care like this:

I water it as needed. Not every day, but only after drying the earth. Watering should be abundant, but rare. In the fall, before cold weather, it is better to abstain from watering altogether, otherwise the lawn will not overwinter well.
Fertilizer. For my lawn, I use a three-time feeding scheme per season, that is, only 3 times with an interval of a month. I use any fertilizer for lawn grasses with an approximate combination of the main elements 4: 1: 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium).
Mowing. In the second year of the life of the lawn, I switched to weekly mowing, each time I cut no more than a third of the length of the grass stand.

These rules help me keep the lawn in good condition. The result suits me, I think that the experiment with the lawn was a success for me.

Each person pays a lot of attention to the arrangement of the territory, because it is always nice to see a beautiful well-kept plot... Lawns are becoming more and more popular, filling territories with an exquisite type of natural green cover.

What land is needed for a lawn?

Many people think that the lawn is unpretentious and able to grow on any soil. However, this approach does not provide the desired quality of the grass cover, consequently, its aesthetic properties are reduced. Since the main purpose of such landscaping is to close non-aesthetic places of the land plot, you should take care of what kind of land is used for the lawn. Better from a reliable supplier and enjoy gardening for decades.

Features of the soil for lawn decoration

Usually the solution appears when the natural fertile soil layer is damaged. Therefore, you first need to deliver fertile land, make domestication or add peat.

The main characteristics of the fertile layer of land for landscaping:

Average soil density;

Bulk density is 0.8 - 1.2;

Good water and air permeability;

Weak acid reaction pH (6.0-6.5);

Saturation with an appropriate stock nutrients.

Working with land for landscaping

An ordinary person may find the process of arranging a site difficult, therefore, a specialist is often involved in the execution of the corresponding work. If the work is organized on heavy soil, it is recommended to lighten the soil with sand. They also regulate the acidity level using lime. Many lawn owners do not comply with the necessary requirements, neglecting the favorable conditions for growth, which affects the quality of the result.

Owning a plot of land is a laborious process, but many will find it fun. Greens beautiful lawn always pleases the owners and visitors, therefore the unusual aesthetic properties of such a natural coating are in great demand. When the idea of decorating a garden or an ordinary plot arises, you should turn to lawn coverings, because this method of landscaping has no analogues.

Correct soil preparation for a rolling lawn

It is necessary to correctly plan how to prepare the soil for the lawn, taking into account necessary steps this process. There are several rules that must be followed when preparing land for a lawn.

Patterns of Successful Soil Preparation

Such a time-consuming activity as preparing a site for a lawn is extremely necessary to ensure the quality of the cover. It is necessary to study the content and sequence of preparatory work, and also take into account the following rules for soil preparation:

Get rid of the weeds!

It is necessary to get rid of all weeds, if necessary, even in several stages. Are used special means, which are applied to the stems and leaves of weeds through a spray nozzle. This procedure should be carried out only in good weather so that the substance remains on the plant for at least 4 hours. It is recommended to carry out the treatment several times, because new germinating weeds will try to take the vacated space. The use of herbicides is very effective in controlling weeds, because it interferes with photosynthesis in the plant and leads to death along with the root system. After the onset of plant withering away, withered stems are collected from the ground.

The ground level should be 5 centimeters below the level of the tracks

The thickness of a standard roll is 3-4 centimeters. Therefore, thinking about how to prepare a plot for a lawn, you should prudently lower the level relative to the tracks by at least 5 centimeters. This arrangement will keep the grass clean, even after snowmelt and rain.

The thickness of the soil under the lawn is also of great importance - usually the thickness of the fertile layer is 10-15 centimeters. This thickness provides required amount nutrients for optimal plant life.

Strengthening the soil

If a large load is envisaged for a rolled lawn, additional sand should be added under the fertile layer. Its minimum layer should be up to 5 centimeters.

Dig up the soil!

If the soil has been artificially compacted, it should be dug up. This applies to cases when people often walked on the ground or equipment drove. When laying on steppe, forest or garden soil, there is no need to dig up.

How to level the area under the lawn?

You should get rid of depressions and bumps, any bumps and holes. Before leveling the area for the lawn, you should also analyze its layout. If you leave pits, liquid will stagnate in them and the grass will get wet, and the remaining bumps will interfere with mowing. Usually, the preparation of a plot for a lawn involves the removal of the top layer of soil, which is returned after leveling.

Create the right slope!

Although the bumps and depressions adversely affect the quality of the coating, care must be taken to create a natural slope. Its purpose is to create natural drains for storm and melt water.

Compaction and final leveling of the soil

It is necessary to compact the ground so that after the first rain there is no large subsidence. The entire area should be trampled in small steps. Next, you need to walk with a rake to level out new irregularities. This completes the preparation of the soil for rolled lawn completed!

Convenience of soil preparation for a rolled lawn relative to the sowing type

Rolled lawn, like any other type of planting, has characteristic differences. However, these differences characterize it as a predominant type of landscaping. World practice considers the use of pre-grown grass cover the best way creating high-quality landscaping!

Benefits of a roll lawn

Pregrown greens are available for planting in any soil. Such grass takes root very quickly, has a beautiful uniform structure and does not contain weeds. This lawn will become a decoration of the site until the snow falls.

Unique aesthetic and performance properties

The roll lawn is characterized by extraordinary decorative qualities. Its smooth, dense and resilient sod is not demanding on temperature conditions, it is resistant to flooding and mechanical stress. Also, the greenery will withstand cold winters or prolonged droughts in summer. With proper care, the roll coating is almost unlimited in terms of service life.

Ease of soil preparation

Preparing the soil for a roll lawn is available to everyone! Arrange landscaping of the territory using roll cover much easier than using the seed type. After all, a sowing lawn requires not only soil preparation and good care, and and additional activities for planting and germination care.

The sowing lawn can dry out, overgrow with weeds, erode, and form bald spots. You will need to continually weed and add seeds, and cold times can be detrimental to the seedbed. Unlike a sowing lawn, a rolled lawn will be less demanding to maintain. Moreover, the quality of seeds cannot be assessed before germination, but the quality of pre-grown plants can.

A high-quality roll lawn is a product of the Gorgazon company!

Gorgazon grows roll turf on a substrate enriched with mineral fertilizers;

Preparing the soil for a lawn is comparable to laying a reliable foundation for a house. The more responsible you take it an important milestone, the smoother and neater the finished lawn will look, and thus less problems with him will arise afterwards. Be prepared for the fact that it will take you a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth it!

You will need to clear the selected area of debris, remove weeds and uproot stumps, dig up the soil, level the surface, apply top dressing, compact upper layer soil, and then loosen and level again. You will especially have to sweat if the site has not been developed before. And it doesn't matter whether you plan to sow the area with grass yourself or lay a roll lawn - the preparation of the soil for the lawn will be the same.

The land for the lawn should also be completely free of trees, shrubs, young growth, former flower beds

Cleaning the territory and preparing the site for the lawn

The first thing to do is to clear the area from construction and household waste, from chips, stones, branches, etc. Just do not bury small debris in the ground, otherwise then problems may arise when using technology, and foreign objects will interfere with the development of the root system of plants. If you had concrete or stone paths in the place where you plan to place the lawn, you will have to completely remove them to the very foundation.

Video about preparing the soil for the lawn

The land for the lawn should also be completely free of trees, shrubs, young growth, former flower beds. Special attention devoted to the destruction of weeds. Can be removed bayonet shovel a thin layer of sod and further use it as fertile soil (stack the sod in a pile with the roots up in the far corner of the garden, and in six months it will make excellent fertile soil).

Another option is to get rid of the weeds with chemical substances(raglon or roundup), which, penetrating through the stems and leaves of plants into root system, completely destroy all the grass in a few days. After applying herbicides, it is recommended to sow seeds lawn grass only six weeks later, carefully weeding out the weeds that appear during this period.

How to properly dig up the soil for the lawn

Further preparation of the land for the lawn consists in its careful digging. This stage cannot be skipped, even if it seems very difficult. Good soil(after a vegetable garden or flower bed) it is enough to dig up one bayonet of a shovel to the depth of one, turning and breaking pieces of earth. A simple one-tier digging is only suitable for soil that has been previously cultivated, since only the top layer of soil is prepared, and the bottom remains unchanged.

Well-rotted manure or compost can be added to the soil.

If the site has not been processed for a long time or the soil is too light or heavy, a two-tier digging will be required:

dig a furrow across the site on one bayonet of a shovel, removing the earth for a while to the side;
with a pitchfork or a pickaxe, carefully loosen the lower level of the ground;
dig the second furrow, fill the first furrow with the earth taken out of it;
break large clods of earth with a pitchfork or a shovel;
the last furrow is filled with the soil that was dug at the very beginning.

Well-rotted manure or compost can be added to the soil. At poor drainage and clay soil soil preparation for the lawn also includes the creation of a drainage layer - during two-tier digging, crushed stone or gravel is poured onto the lower level.

Leveling the parcel and the top layer of the earth

When leveling the site, try not to mix the top layer of earth with the bottom

So that on small hills the grass does not look shaved off, and in the lowlands it is not too long, you need to take care of how to level the area under the lawn in advance. To do this, take a rake over the dug area, at the same time removing old roots and stones that have turned out to be on the surface. From time to time, carefully inspect the site from the side so that its level is the same from different points. Transfer the soil from the hills to the lowlands for leveling, but keep in mind: all the irregularities will reappear after the earth subsides.

When leveling the site, try not to mix the top layer of the earth with the bottom. If you need to level the hummocks and depressions, it is better to temporarily remove the fertile layer and set it aside, carry out all the leveling work at the level of the lower layer, and then fill the fertile soil back. In case of shortage fertile soil on the site (the layer should be at least 20 cm), you can purchase it and mix it with the existing one - this will ensure uniform drainage.

Final preparation of the soil for the lawn

Before preparing the ground for the lawn, you need to add to it mineral fertilizers, because in any case, the soil will lack nutrients, and top dressing at this stage will allow the best way distribute fertilizers in the ground. Organic fertilizers applied in spring and autumn.

Video about the lawn, preparing the land for sowing

The leveled earth must be trampled down with small steps or so that it does not sag after the rain. In addition, the grass will root better on compacted soil. When the soil under the lawn is thoroughly compacted, go over the surface with a rake again, leveling the unevenness and removing stones. As a result, the surface of the earth should look like a cake sprinkled with sand crumbs, while remaining quite dense inside.

This completes the preparation of the soil for the lawn. It is recommended, if time permits, to leave the site for one and a half to two months under fallow - the earth will shrink a little more, and you can eliminate the defects that have appeared, as well as destroy the wave of weeds that will inevitably grow on freshly cultivated land. After that, it remains to loosen the surface of the site again with a rake and sow lawn grass seeds.

At the word "dacha" most of us imagine cozy house in the middle of a flat lawn, neat beds and ranks fruit trees, well-groomed flower garden. But to achieve such an ideal, the gardener has to work hard. And the first step is to level the lawn in the country.

Often under new land wastelands are provided near the city limits. The land on them, as a rule, is very far from level. Therefore, after buying a plot, leveling all the unevenness of the landscape becomes a considerable headache for a happy landowner. How to level the ground to create a lawn, what tools are needed and can you do this work yourself?

How to level a plot of land under a lawn

Leveling the ground under your lawn is important for a variety of reasons:

Most lawn grasses grow best on level ground.
The smooth surface of the lawn will ensure uniform irrigation, preventing water from draining down the slope and creating over-dried areas and areas with insufficient moisture on the lawn.
Uneven terrain (bumps, holes, general slope, etc.) will also affect the even distribution of light on your lawn, which will lead to overgrowth in some areas and oppression in others.
On the aesthetic side, the lawn also looks much better when presented with a level area. Such a platform is decorative in itself, and besides, it favorably emphasizes decorative elements relief, such as alpine slides.

Therefore, it is obvious that before planting lawn mixtures, it is worthwhile to make an effort to level the unevenness of the site. The invited specialists will help to level the site, but if you want to save money, you can do the work on your own.

How to level the area under the lawn with your own hands

Before you start leveling the site, it is worth preparing it. First you need to divide the territory of the future lawn into nine equal parts. The easiest way to do this is using ropes and pegs. With their help, we mark a square on the site, divided into 9 cells, located in 3 horizontal and 3 vertical rows.

To control the alignment visually, we pull the ropes at a low height from the ground (3-4 centimeters). Now, guided by the ropes, you can track all the unevenness of the site.

After completing the preparation, we remove all excess soil from the hillocks and fill it in the holes, focusing on stretched ropes... It may turn out that the soil cut from the hills is not enough to fill all the holes or ravines available on the site. In this case, additional land will be needed. The easiest way is to buy it.

The described method is applicable if the site does not have a noticeable slope, but is only spoiled by pits or ravines. But how to level an uneven piece of land under a lawn if there is a general slope? Here, first of all, you need to find out how big this bias is. If the slope is small, you can use the method described above. But if the slope exceeds 20 degrees, then you should think about dividing the site into several terraces of different levels. Such redevelopment is easier to perform, and it looks much more impressive. It is best to place terraces on slopes facing south or east, since these sides are considered the warmest and most well-lit.

Before leveling the ground, the site must be thoroughly cleared, free from stumps, tree roots and other obstacles.

Equipment for leveling the area

Equipment for giving a flat surface of the site depends quite strongly on the area of the site and the amount of work. If the plot is more than the standard six hundred square meters or there are too many irregularities on it, then it will be advisable to use the technique. First of all, you need to run in the area with a tractor with a blade to level the ground. Such a run-in is done twice, first along the section, and then across.

After running in, the site is plowed with a cultivator, and then leveled with a weighting projectile. An impromptu skating rink can be metal barrel filled with rubble, sand or water. After such processing, the site will become flat and it will be good to keep the plane and slope even when digging for the winter and spring.

If a thick layer of plant roots forms a dense sod on the site, then a grader or bulldozer may be needed to remove it and then level the soil. These machines will not only effectively remove sod, but can also roughly level the surface of the site.

If the site is not too large, and its shape is not particularly difficult, then you can get by with a minimum of technology. In this case, it is enough to plow the area several times with a cultivator. Each time the plowing is carried out, changing the direction - first along, then across. It is possible to smooth out irregularities after plowing with a rake and shovels.

When leveling the surface of the earth manually, you can use simple improvised devices. For example, good results can be obtained from an ordinary old wooden ladder with flat steps. She is dragged across the entire territory of the site, tied to ropes. In this case, the steps of the stairs act like several rakes, smoothing the soil very effectively.

Also a beneficial advantage of self-leveling the land can be the creation of drainage system... If the soil is clayey and natural drainage is insufficient, then it is worthwhile to make grooves for water drain in advance and take care of arranging a catchment pit. If the soil is not too rich in clay, then natural drainage may be sufficient.

As you can see from the above, level the ground under the lawn with your own hands on garden plot quite possible. With just one effort, you can provide your site with an elegant and attractive look, as well as get rid of problems with improper water flow. Smooth green lawn will be a sufficient reward for your efforts and will delight the eye for many years!

The lawn roller is required element garden tools... Although it is used on summer cottage not often, but still its absence brings unnecessary trouble, so we recommend buying it in the store, or making it yourself.

Purpose of the skating rink

The skating rink in the country is used for several types of work:

Preparation of a gravel and sand base for paths.
Compaction and leveling of the surface for sowing the lawn.
Rolling the seeds after sowing.
Rolling.
Rolling asphalt during paving.
Rolling up cut grass and other mulch.

Ice rink selection

Before you go to the store, you should decide on the choice of the model of the ice rink that suits you in terms of financial capabilities and the amount of work that they will perform.

For vast areas of large suburban areas, a large roller can be recommended, which will be attached to any self-propelled mechanism.

For plantations that are not very large, a hand-held lawn roller is more suitable. It weighs less and is sized to fit in tight spaces, aisles and walkways.

When choosing a model, you should also pay attention to the smooth rotation of the roller drum around the axis, so it is advisable that the roller be equipped with bearings.

It is also a good idea if the roller is equipped with a screw plug for filling in sand or similar weighting materials. This will increase the functionality of the mechanism, apply it in a wider range of conditions.

Homemade ice rinks

Nothing is impossible for our dacha Kulibins, and therefore many of them use hand-made lawn rollers. Moreover, the fantasies of our summer residents can only be envied. Indeed, as rollers or materials for their manufacture, they use any available materials:

logs;
metal and asbestos pipes;
barrels;
bottles for water;
gas cylinders.

If you have experience welding works and the necessary equipment, it will not be difficult for you to make a real roller from a piece of steel pipe.

Below is a diagram showing how to make a lawn roller.

The sequence of work is as follows:

We cover the thick pipe with metal on both sides.
Cut holes for the axle in the center of the pancakes. This operation must be performed according to precise markings, centering of the hole is very important.
We weld bushings into pancakes or weld bearings.
We insert the axle and weld the handle or rings to it to attach it.
We attach a pre-made handle to the roller.

In another embodiment, pins are welded to the centers of the pancakes, which rotate in bearings or bushings mounted on the handle on the principle of a well drum.

Below is a photo of one of the many home-made devices.

If you have a metal barrel at your disposal, then it will also make a good lawn roller. You just need to insert a metal axle into it, and a reliable belt can also serve as a handle. The barrel has a filler plug through which it can be filled with a weight sufficient for the work that you are going to perform with the help of such a roller.

In addition to the above-mentioned structures, rollers are made of asbestos-cement pipes with a preliminary insertion of a metal axis and filling the interior with cement mortar.

When constructing a roller, a piece of such a thickness is selected from a piece of log so that its weight is sufficient to carry out the work. Steel reinforcement is screwed into the ends of such a log in the center as an axis, and rotation occurs at the junction with the handle.