A simple fixture for sharpening drills with your own hands. Production of fixture for sharpening swelling with your own hands Stand for sharpening drills with your own hands

If you have to drill only wood, then you can not think about the sharpness of the drill, since the drill can regularly serve months and years without sharpening. But when it comes to the drilling of metal, the drill sharpness becomes very important, in other words, you can only drill the metal sharp drill. The difference is easy to feel, taking absolutely new drill. Starting quite quickly cut into the metal, with each minute the drill will be immersed in the metal, everything is slower, and it is still stronger to put pressure on it. The speed of blurring drill depends in particular from revolutions, feed speed, cooling and other factors, but no matter how try, the operation time of the drill to unsatisfactory performance is measured by moments. If the volume of work is significant, constantly buying new drills will turn out to be consistent, so it is better to learn them to sharpen them. Although it is still worth having several drills of one diameter (3-10, depending on the oh diameter and, accordingly, the price) to return to sharpening only when all the drills fumbled.

On the periphery of drill the speed of cutting maximum, and, therefore, the maximum heating cutting edges. At the same time, heat removal from the cutting edge corner is very difficult. Therefore, the blunt starts from the corner, then it extends to the entire cutting edge. Clearly visible her rounding. Then the back line is abrase. It appears strokes, risks coming from the cutting edge. As the risks wear are merged into a solid strip along the cutting edge, wider by the periphery and narrowing towards the center of the drill. The transverse cutting edge when wearing is crushed.

At the beginning of the blurring, the drill makes a sharp creaking sound. If the drill is not sharpened on time, the amount of heat released will increase and the process of wear will go faster.

To facilitate control of the geometry of the drill, the main thing that should be done is the template described below. With it, even if the sharpening is performed without fixtures, you can always check where it is still necessary to remove the metal, and, in the end, to get what it should happen (can not be that it does not work out, even if you have to run half the drill length) . To comply with symmetry, try to sharpen the time of each site and the pressure of the push were constant.

Sharpening spiral drills

The sharpening of the drill is made by its rear edges. It is very important that both feather (tooth) drill are sharpened completely equally. Perform it manually very difficult. It is also not easy to manually create the desired form of the rear face and the specified rear angle (where what angle see below).

For sharpening there are special machines or devices. If possible, it is better to sharpen drills on specialized equipment. But in the conditions of the domestic workshop, such an opportunity, as a rule, does not happen. Drills have to be hosted manually on an ordinary sharpe.

Depending on which form is attached to the back surface, there are different types Sharpening: single-layer, two-plane, conical, cylindrical, screw.

With single-layer sharpening the rear surface of the pen is performed as a plane. The rear angle should be 28-30 ° with such sharpening. With single-layer sharpening, the risk of painting the cutting edges is large. This method is the easiest performed when manual sharpeningrecommended for drill with a diameter of up to 3 mm.

Universal drills with a diameter of more than 3 mm are usually subjected to conical sharpening. In order for the features of such sharpening, consider the conical sharpening scheme on the drill machine with an angle of 2 φ at 118 °. The figure below shows the grinding wheel and pressed to its end to the cutting edge and the rear surface of the drill.

Imagine a cone forming which is directed along the cutting edge and end grinding CircleAnd the vertex is the drill diameter by 1.9 of its values. The angle at the top is 26 °. The axis of the drill intersects with the axis of the imaginary cone at an angle of 45 °. If you rotate the drill, around the axis of the imaginary cone (as if to roll the cone from the end of the grinding circle), then a conical surface is formed on the rear face of the drill. If the axis of the drill and the axis of the imaginary cone are in the same plane, then the rear angle will equal to zero.. To formed the rear angle, it is necessary to shift the axis of the drill relative to the axis of the imaginary cone. In practice, this offset will be equal to 1/15 diameter of the drill. The swing of drill along the axis of the imaginary cone with this mixture will provide the conical rear face and the rear angle 12-14 °. The greater the displacement value, the greater the rear corner. It should be reminded that the rear angle is changing along the cutting edge and increases to the center of the drill.

It is clear that it is very difficult to perform all these sharpening conditions. The drill, designed for sharpening, take the left hand for the work part, maybe closer to the intake cone, and the right to tail.

The cutting edge and rear surface of the drill is pressed to the end of the grinding circle and, ranging from the cutting edge, smooth movements right hand, without taking drills from stone, shake it, creating a cone surface on the back facet. Then repeat the same procedure for the second pen.

When sharpening, it is desirable as you can rather repeat the shape of the rear surface, which was after the factory sharpening, so as not to lose the required rear corners.

Another method of sharpening, widely used by domestic masters, is as follows. As in the previous case, the drill take the left hand for the work part is possible closer to the intake cone, and the right to tail. The cutting edge of the drill is pressed to the end of the grinding circle and the smooth movement of the right hand, without tearing the drill from the stone, turn it around its axis, draining the back surface. It is very important to maintain when rotating the drill the desired angle of its inclination to the end of the grinding circle. To do this, often use special sleeves when sharpening.

As a result of such sharpening on the rear surfaces of both feathers, a conical surface will be obtained, but the rear corner will not be formed. When driving the back surface about the wall of the opening and, therefore, the heating will be greater.

Due to friction about the grinding wheel, when sharpening the tool is heating. This causes a vacation to the tempered part of the instrument. Metal softened, loses hardness. Inappropriate sharpening leads the blade tool into disrepair. Therefore, sharpening should be carried out with multiple cooling of the drill in water or in water-soda solution. This requirement does not concern carbide drills. It is impossible to use for cooling oil. If for any circumstances the tool is sharpening dry, then:

for one pass, a slight layer of metal is removed;
the speed of rotation of the abrasive circle should be as low as possible;
the drill should never warm up to such an extent so that this is not tolerated.

Practice shows that the tool sharpening should be carried out against the movement of the grinding circle. Then the cutting edge is more durable, it is less likely to fminine and teasing.

For sharpening, grinding wheels from electrocorundu (grades 24a, 25a, 91a, 92a) with graininess of 25-40, the hardness of M3-cm2, on ceramic ligaments is used.

In production, it is usually imposed by imprisonment. The finishing makes the surface smooth, removes small jar. Drill, subjected to refinement, more resistant to wear than drill after sharpening. If you have the opportunity to execute the finish, use it.

For the finishing, grinding wheels from green silicon carbide 63C grain 5-6, the hardness of M3-cm1 on the bakelite bundle or circles from Elba Lo, the graininess of 6-8 on the Bakelite bond.

One of the main conditions proper sharpening Drills - preservation of its axisymmetry. Both cutting edges should be straightforward and have an identical length, the identical value of the corners at the top (and the angles of the pointing) in relation to the axis of the drill.

The correctness of the sharpening is verified by a special template.

a - pattern; b - checking the angle at the top and length of the cutting edges; in the alarm angle; G - angle between the jumper and the cutting edge.

It is made independently of the sheet of copper, aluminum or steel with a thickness of approximately 1 mm. The most durable pattern, of course, from steel. The template check the angle at the top, the length of the cutting edges, the angle between the jumper and the cutting edge. Instead of the rear angle, which is very difficult to measure, the pattern is measured by the alarm angle. The template is advisable to make before using the new drill to transfer the desired angles from the latter.

The uneven length of the cutting edges and the slope of them to the axis of the drill lead to the unequal load. The drill will be faster due to the intensive wear of the overloaded cutting edge.

a - wedges of the cutting edges of the unequal, the middle of the jumper does not coincide with the axis of the drill; B - the cutting edges are sharpened at different angles to the axis of the drill, the middle of the jumper coincides with the axis of the drill.

The uneven load on the part of the drill will cause its beating in the cutting process and, as a result, an increase in the diameter of the obtained opening.

The easiest way to check the correctness of the sharpening is a trial drilling. If the feathers drill are sharpened unenochnakovo, then the less loaded will be less chips from the corresponding groove. Sometimes the chips appear only through one groove. The diameter of the opening can be exaggerated in comparison with the diameter of the drill.

The device consists of a fixed base and a removable holder with holes for drilling different diameters.

1 - Rake; 2 - drill; 3 - emery circle; 4 - base; 5 - Holding.

The base is performed from a planed board with a thickness of 30-40 mm, to which at an angle of 30-32 ° (depends on the angle 2φ, see below, 30 ° for 2φ \u003d 120 °, 32 ° for 2φ \u003d 116 °) is sewn (nailed, glued ) wooden rail With a beveled at an angle of 25-30 ° (for single-layer sharpening) side face. This rail and focuses under the desired angle with a hidden with a stuffed drill with a grinding circle. The holder is made of a rectangular wooden bar, one of the sidewalls of which is be built at an angle of 60-65 ° (depends on the angle of the side faces of the rail). This sidewall holder is pressed to the rake on the base board, which ensures the sharpening of the front angle of the drill in the required limits (25-30 °). On another sidewall, the holder is placed and drilled perpendicularly plane of this sidewall through holes For each drill of a diameter. The length of the holder is chosen such that it is convenient to keep it when sharpening drills.

You will not install the fixture to the usual backrest (armrest), so you have to invent some table or shelf for it, you can transfer a sharpening machine to the table where there will be a place for this device. On the basis, put the holder with a drill to be sharpened close to the rail to be sharpened. Turn the drill in the socket so that the stuck edge is oriented horizontally. Left hand hold the drill at the stuffed edge, the right - drill shank. Climbing the power to the bevelled rail, move the drill to the emery circle and sharpen one edge. Then expand the drill and also process the second edge.

It can be done easier:

Sharpening angles and other drill characteristics

Spiral drill is a rod having two screw grooves to relieve chips. Thanks to the grooves on the drill, two screw feprenes are formed, or, as they are different, the tooth is called.

Spiral drill consists of working part, cervical, shank and paws.

A - with a conical shank; B - with a cylindrical shank; A -Ommer's cutting part; B - neck; B - the width of the pen; g - foot; d - leash; e - groove chip screw; f - feather; s - shank; and - jumper; L is a total length; L 0 - the length of the "working cutting part"; D - diameter; Ω - the angle of inclination of the "groove inlet screw"; 2φ - angle at the top; F - spiral ribbon width; ψ - the angle of tilt the jumper.

The working part is divided into the cutting and guide. All the cutting elements of the drill are located on the cutting part - the intake cone. The guide part serves to direct during cutting and is a spare with a drill in a blow. On the feathers of the guide part over the screw line are cylindrical chamfer tapes. The ribbon is used to direct the drill in the hole, as well as to reduce the friction of the drill on the wall wall. It should not be wide. Thus, the width of the drill ribbon with a diameter of 1.5 mm is 0.46 mm, a diameter of 50 mm - 3.35 mm. The shank drill and the foot serve to fix the drill in the spindle of the machine or cartridge. Drills can be performed with both neck and without it.

The diameter of the drill, measured by ribbons, unequal drill length. The intake cone is somewhat more than the shank. This reduces the friction of ribbons about the wall of the hole.

In order to understand the device cutting part of the drill, consider the basic principles of the operation of any cutting tool (including drills). One of the most important requirements for the cutting tool is that the separated chips freely separated from the place of cutting. The surface of the tool for which the chips runs is called the front face. This face is deflected back at some angle from the vertical plane.

1 - Wedge; 2 - processed object; γ (gamma) - an angle of front; α (alpha) - rear angle; Δ (delta) - cutting angle; β (beta) - angle of acunifications.

Thanks to this corner for the tool, cutting into metal and chips is freely coming on the front face. The angle between the front edge of the tool and the plane, carried out perpendicular to the cutting surface, is called the front angle and is indicated by the Greek bucken γ.

The surface of the tool facing the details is called the rear face. It is deflected on some corner from the surface of the workpiece to reduce the friction of the tool on the cutting surface. The angle between the rear face of the tool and the cutting surface is called the rear angle and denote the Greek letter α.

The angle between the front and rear face of the tool is called an angle of acuction and denote by the Greek letter β.

The angle between the front edge of the tool and the cutting surface is called the cutting angle and denote the Greek letter Δ. This angle is the sum of the alarm angle of β and the rear angle α.

Front and rear corner are the corners that need to be observed when sharpening.

And now we will find the faces described above and the corners on the drill, which is not at all similar to the instrument shown in the figure above. To do this, disseminate the cutting part of the drill with the plane of the AB, perpendicular to its cutting edge.

The cutting edge is the line of intersection of the front and rear edges of the tool. The front angle of γ in the drill forms a screw groove. The angle of inclination of the groove to the axis of the drill determines the magnitude of the front angle. The magnitude of the angles γ and α along the cutting edge of the variable, which will be described below.

The drill has two cutting edges, interconnected by a jumper located at an angle ψ to the cutting edges.

Having received general view On the geometry of the cutting part of the drill, let's talk more about its elements. The front edge of the spiral drill is a complex screw surface. The face is the name conditional, since the word "face" suggests a plane. Screw groove, the surface of which forms the front line, intersecting with a fence cone, creates direct cutting edges.

The angle of inclination of the screw groove to the axis of the drill is indicated by the Greek letter Ω. The more this angle, the greater the front angle and the easier the chips. But the drill with an increase in the tilt of the screw groove is weakened. Therefore, drill with a small diameter having less strength, this angle is done less than the drill of a large diameter. The angle of inclination of the screw groove also depends on the material of the drill. Drills from high-speed steel can operate in more intense conditions than carbon steel drills. Therefore, for them, the angle Ω may be greater.

The selection of the angle of inclination affect the properties of the material being processed. What it is softer, the angle of inclination may be more. But this rule is applicable in production. At home, where one drill is used for processing different materialsThe angle of inclination is usually associated with a drill diameter and varies from 19 to 28 ° for a drill with a diameter of 0.25 to 10 mm.

The shape of the groove should create sufficient space to place shavings and provide a lightweight removal from the groove, but it is not very weakening the drill. The width of the groove should be approximately equal to the width of the pen. The depth of the groove determines the thickness of the core of the drill. The strength depends on the thickness of the core. If the groove is deeper, the chips will be better placed, but the drill will be weakened. Therefore, the thickness of the core is chosen depending on the diameter of the drill. In the drills of small diameter, the thickness of the core is a large proportion of the drill diameter than in the drills of a large diameter. So, for the drill with a diameter of 0.8-1 mm, the core width is 0.21-0.22 mm, and for the drill with a diameter of 10 mm core width of 1.5 mm. In order to increase the strength of the drill, the core thickness increases towards the shank.

The front edge of the drill does not drag.

The design of the screw grooves is such that, as the drill is approached from the edge to the center, their inclination angle decreases, which means that the front angle is reduced. The working conditions of the cutting edge at the center of the drill will be harder.

The rear corner, as well as the front, varies in size at different points of the cutting edge. At points located closer to the outer surface of the drill, it is less, at points located closer to the center, more. The rear angle is formed when the intake cone sharpening and on the periphery of the drill is approximately 8-12 °, and in the center of 20-25 °.

The jumper (transverse edge) is located in the center of the drill and connects both cutting edges. The angle of incitement of the jumper to the cutting edges can be from 40 to 60 °. In most drills ψ \u003d 55 °. The jumper is formed by the intersection of two rear edges. Its length depends on the thickness of the core of the drill. Since the thickness of the core increases towards the shank, the length of the jumper increases as a result of each sharpening. In the process of drilling, the transverse edge only interferes with the introduction of drill to metal. She does not cut, and the scraper or, or rather, presses the metal. No wonder she was once called scraping blade. With a decrease in the length of the jumper twice the feed force can be reduced by 25%. However, the decrease in the length of the jumper by reducing the thickness of the core will lead to a weakening of the drill.

A great influence on the operation of the drill is an angle at the top of 2φ. If the angle at the top is small, the chips to its lower edge will hurt over the wall of the hole and the conditions for the proper formation of chips.

Figure below shows the drill with normal angle Selection cone.

The edge of chips in this case is well fit into the groove. The change in the angle at the top changes the length of the cutting edge and, consequently, the load per unit of its length. With an increase in the angle at the top, the load per unit length of the cutting edge increases, while the resistance to the introduction of drill to the metal increases in the feed direction. With a decrease in the angle at the top, the force required to rotate the drill is increasing, as the conditions for the formation of chips deteriorate and friction increases. But at the same time, the load per unit length of the cutting edge decreases, the thickness of the cut chips becomes less and the heat from the cutting edges is better.

Usually an angle at the vertex (2φ) of standard universal drills from carbon, chromium and high-speed steel is 116-118 ° and is considered suitable for many materials. But in order to provide best conditions Works, change it, as shown in the table.

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Feature right drawing Fixtures for sharpening drills, you can make homemade full-fledged equipment at home. Thanks to such a device, the task of ensuring the desired geometric shape of the instrument is significantly simplified.

When it is used, there is no need to worry not only about the rotation of potentially dangerous grinding stones, but also about sharpening angles that need to be properly withstanding, catching every degree manually.

Features of the use of sharp homemade fixtures

In the process of drilling holes in metal productsThe drills are quite exhausted, which leads to their heating and loss of their properties. To avoid such a phenomenon, measures are required to ensure regular restoration of their geometric parameters. You can perform this by special equipment for sharpening a drilling tool. Creating such a simple device can be performed independently, which will allow you to exercise high-quality sharpening without any significant financial costs.

Many experienced specialists practically do not apply sharpening devicesAs they are absolutely confident in their experience and eyelash, which allows them to correctly sharpen drills. But in practice, the use of such devices is extremely necessary, as it allows you to carry out mechanization this process . As a result of such works, the maximum accuracy and quality of the sharpening will be ensured.

The modern market suggests different kinds equipment that allows you to qualitatively restore geometry cutting tools, even in the absence of experience in this matter. At the same time, there is no acute necessity in the acquisition of such products, since they can be made with their own hands on the existing drawings of fixtures for sharpening drills.

Drawings of simplest devices

The simplest devices for sharpening can be sleeves, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the transverse dimensions of the drill. The bushing is rigidly fixed in a reliable base with regard to a certain angle. When selecting the bushings for such devices, you should pay attention to the correspondence of its internal diameter with transverse size Bold tools. It is forbidden that the processed tools hang out in the sleeve, because even with a deviation of 1-2 degrees along the axis from the required values, the quality and accuracy of sharpening can significantly reduce.

Such homemade devices For sharpening the drills must be equipped with robes. For their manufacture, copper or aluminum tubes are suitable, the internal diameter of which is equal typical size used drilling tool.

In some cases, the task can be simplified by installing on this design. wooden barberin which holes must be drilled, with a diameter of the appropriate tool used. One of the most important elements Such a product is considered to have a girlfriend, which is necessary for:

ensuring proper fixation of the drilling tool and the possibility of accurate movement with respect to the surface of the abrasive stone;
create a stubborn point for the drained drill.

Such products from oak bars, which provide solid-caliber holes are the most reliable. Thanks to them, a high-quality and accurate sharpening tools are performed. The main task that must be solved by a homemade machine or a similar device is the correct orientation of the cutting part of the tools processed to obtain the accuracy of the desired sharpening angle.

For the manufacture of homemade machine For sharpening drills, a number of different design variations of such equipment can be used. If there are appropriate drawings and understanding the principle of operation of this equipment, you can make sharpening equipment yourself at home.

The design consists of the following items:

Playground promotional

Mount for drill and stubborn screw

Bolts, nuts, pins, screws

Exist important rulesthat must be respected during the operation of such a device, namely the sharpened tool should not rotate around its axis. In case of even a minor turn, sharpening must be performed again.

Sharpened tool must be cold natural way. After that, check its restored geometric parameters. To do this, you can use the template. It should be borne in mind that each cutting edge of the drill may have difference with each other, no more than a tenth stitch. Wherein, special attention It is worth paying this parameterIf the drills have a small diameter.

Video "Device for sharpening drills according to the drawing"

Drawing of a full-fledged device

Pretty simple way to manufacture homemade sharpening equipmentwhich is practically no different from the factory product. For its assembly on ready-made drawings, about 1.5-2 hours of time is required.

For manufacture with your own hands, fixtures for sharpening the drill must be provided for the following supplies, equipment and tools:

welding machine;
electric drill;
bulgarian;
standard locksmith set of tools;
corner, the size of the shelves of which is 30x30, and its length is 100-150 mm;
metal plates having different thickness (3-5 mm);
studs or pieces of steel rods whose diameter is 10-12 mm;
washers, screws, bolts and nuts having different sizes.

First of all, the manufacture of the bed is performed, which will be the base in the grinding device. For this, the steel plate is used to be welded with a steel bar (12 mm in diameter) at an angle of 75 degrees. He will be the axis.

After that, on the welded rod, it is necessary to put a puck, which will be a reference bearing. The magnitude of the angle, the rotation of the bed when draining the drill will be insignificant, therefore there is no reason to use the standard ball bearing.

The bed, where the sharpened tool will be placed, is performed from the prepared corner. One side by angular Profilethat faces side grinding stone, It is necessary to rest at an angle of 60 degrees. On the bed, according to the drawing, the bracket is welded by which the fixation of the rotary assembly will be performed. As a result, a design will be made, the angles of which, in the case of a parallel position of the bed and the beds, should be located to the surface of the abrasive stone in accordance with the angle of the decayable drill.

W. sharpening machineThis presented in the drawing is provided for fixed tilt angles, but for great opportunities it is desirable to ensure the possibility of controlling the angles. In such cases there will be more chances of using the device, if necessary, restore the tools, with different angles sharpening, for example, if you need to sharpen drills for metal, concrete, etc.

To create a more functional node, you can use the drawings of other structures with the ability to adjust the corners:

Video "Device made according to the drawing"

Metal drills are always overloaded, but products can overpire. Naturally, this is not a reason to throw them out. If you wish, you can sharpen the drill with your own hands using professional equipment or homemade devices.

The main types of sharpening

Experienced masters know that the sharpening drill on metal is different depending on the diameter and features of the application.

A single-layer sharpening is designed for drills with a maximum diameter of 3 mm. In the process of performing work, it is possible to "choke" the edge, so it is necessary to be very neat. To correctly sharpen the product, it should be applied to a circle and move parallel to the surface.
The conical procedure is designed for larger metal tools. In this case, the tool must be kept with both hands, producing consistent sharpening.
The finishes are performed after the end of the sharpening. Thanks to this procedure, it is possible to polish the cutting edge and eliminate even the smallest naval.

To sharpen the drill with your own hands correctly, you need to use the appropriate machines. Similar devices are divided into 2 groups.

If you are interested in the question of how to sharpen the drill on metal, then be sure to purchase the appropriate machine. For home conditions will suit inexpensive model with medium power. It will allow you to sharpen small metal drills.

Naturally, when buying is necessary pay attention to the noise level, as well as the design of the model. Optimal option It will become a simple machine, because it will be easy for him to find it easy.

Buying such devices is necessary only in specialized places, since here the technical passport is provided here. Moreover, you will be given a warranty card.

Use of machine tools at home

As mentioned earlier, at home it is advisable to use household machines. With their help, it is possible to sharpen various types of drills. It is important to remember that the corresponding circles will have to buy for some species.

To alone sharpen the drill, it is worth a preference to a machine tool equipped with universal patron. It allows you to clamp the elements of various diameters.

Included often go:

keys;
canggi;
spare parts;
luminaire for the working area.

Equipment from Drill Doctor and GS is the greatest popularity. Such products are designed for sharpening the drill with a diameter of 2-13 mm and 14-34 mm. Unfortunately, this equipment does not allow too thin drills to sharpen. For such a goal will have to purchase a special machine.

All equipment designed to sharpen drills at home, has a number of advantages:

the possibility of working from the mains;
high performance;
easy use;
functionality;
sharpening accuracy;
affordable price;
compact dimensions;
low weight;
a convenient control system, which can adjust the sharpening intensity and its speed.

Homemade fixtures for sharpening

If you do not have a corresponding machine, you can perform sharpening with the help of other devices. We are talking about electric drills or homemade equipment, created according to the drawings. It is best to give preference to the second option, otherwise you can spoil the set of drills before weighing the correct sharpening.

You can create a suitable device with your own hands even from wood. So, a ram with holes corresponding to the horizontal surface diameter drill. The mentioned holes are performed under a slight tilt so that it turns out the desired sharpening angle.

Some masters prefer electrically equipped with appropriate nozzles. Naturally, assortment of similar elements smallthat complicates sharpening with your own hands. As a rule, in a set with nozzles there is a stone and a leash. If you plan to sharpen the drills using a specific drill, the leash should be immediately shortened.

If you wish, you can independently make a similar shock for a drill, guided by the recommendations given in the appropriate video. Such devices must be equipped with fasteners for fixing the drill.

Features of sharpening process

If you first decided to sharpen the item with your own hands, perform work in a strict sequence.

First of all handle the rear surface. Thus, the drill is tightly pressed and constantly monitors the sharpening angle remains the same. As a result of processing, the tip of the drill will resemble the correct cone.
Next comes a turn of the cutting part.
The last stage suggests the back of the rear surface. At the same time, it is necessary to make sure that the size of the jumper is no more than 0.4 mm. Naturally, for a large metal drill, such a parameter should be slightly larger.

If something came exactly from the first time, it is not necessary to despair. It is best to start practicing from tools that are hardly needed. The main thing is to learn how to adjust and withstand angle. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the side parts of the drill are responsible for drilling, and not a tip. Accordingly, the edges are necessarily sharpened.

It is important to remember that in the process of sharpening food small particles are formed. Because of the heating, they differ in the form of sparks. For this reason, it is necessary to adhere to safety. We are talking about the use of protective glasses and mittens. Also when sharpening it is necessary to make sure that the drill is securely recorded. Otherwise, it may accidentally break out of the hands.

If you decide to use the appropriate machine for sharpening, be sure to prepare workplace. In particular, we are talking About good lighting. Also need put protective mittens and glasses.

To correctly sharpen the drill with your own hands, you need take advantage of a suitable device. It can be a household or industrial machine, as well as an electric door with a special nozzle. If you have not previously tried to sharpen the drill, first familiarize yourself with the corresponding video.

In principle, bring the fastened tool to the proper state can be manually. But how much will the speed and accuracy be high with this technology? In addition, if the drill is carbide, it is quite difficult to do it. The author offers its own hands to assemble the machine for sharpening drills, which will allow them to use them repeatedly.

Equipment for industrial manufacture is quite expensive - from 43,900 rubles.

True, Chinese products (for example, "GQ-D13") can be bought for 6,800 - 7,200.

But hardly such cheap models will arrange homemade Mastersif we consider that the case of plastic, and the engine power is within 80 - 120 W. In addition, they can be sharpened only by some types of drills, so you do not have to talk about the universality. Consequently, such machines are not counting. The feasibility of manufacture with your own hands "sharpened" for household use is more than obvious.

This article does not consider the options for the manufacture of a grinding machine based on the OSM ("Bulgarian" is not in every home, and it is unlikely to buy it for these purposes) or e-drills (to which you have to still search in stores special devices). The easiest I. convenient option - The traditional "sharpened" from the priest materials, with which almost any of us came across, and not once.

There is nothing complicated in the design of such a machine. However, a number of features in its assembly with their own hands are available, and here is the author and pays attention. Having understood with all the nuances, make the installation for the "home" application of labor will not ().

What will take for assembly

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On the machine to be raised different drills, including a large diameter. In addition, the primary processing of the cutting edges of the instrument and their finishes are separate stages of work. Therefore, you have to change the circle and put the one that is at hand of purchased in advance. Since the machine is the equipment of long-term use, it is necessary to mount it to the perspective. Based on this:

Engine power: enough about 1.2 - 1.5 kW;
Meals: single-phase. Any garage or a small workshop (shed) on the site, with a rare exception, connects to line 1F 220/50. From this you need and proceed.

Grinding circle

Moreover, there must be several, with different graininess. For reliable fixation of the abrasive on the shaft of the engine, sleeves are prepared, which clamp it on both sides.

Sharpener

It can be limited to the simplest "shelf", but then it will not be possible to withstand the desired angle. Such work requires great practical experience.

The device can also be purchased, although it is quite rare on sale.

The optimal option is to make it yourself. For example, here are:

Elements of the scheme

A magnetic starter (with 3 vapor contacts) for a 3 f scheme.
Start / Stop button or 2 different - to turn the machine to turn on and off. And necessarily the third - emergency stop. It is often combined with a pedal, which is much more convenient and safer, because when sharpening drill hands Will be busy.
Wires. At the same engine power, it is sufficient to 1 "square".

The simplest inclusion schemes for three-phase engines are shown in the pictures:

An acceptable is easy to find on the Internet, depending on which engine is used, how to connect its windings ("star" or "triangle"), to which voltage source it will be connected (1 or 3 phases).

Protection elements

Casing over the circle.
Screen (preferably).

There are certain types of work, when executing which a sharpening drill is performed only on machine equipment, rather than manually.

When drilling to a greater depth when a minor lift is required.
If drills are universal, allowing to work even with elevated density materials.
To do the "deaf" holes with a special tool.

It is not recommended for sharpening drills with the help of "Bulgarian" for several reasons. First, the ESM is unlikely to succeed securely. Secondly, the accuracy will be unsatisfactory. Thirdly, after the end of such sharpening, the correct conclusion of the drill is quite difficult to make. Fourth, such a technique is suitable only for partial restoration of the working capacity of a relatively small diameter tool (no more than 5).

Making the machine is not all. It must be properly placed to sharpen the drills as possible as possible. Place, installation height - Master's personal business. But there is general requirement - eliminate the slightest vibration of equipment and ensure its horizontal.

If the workbench in the garage is rather "chlipky", you will have to mount a special table on metal legs. To do this, a large corner is suitable, a pipe or a chamber. Countertop, taking into account the weight of the machine (first of all, the engine) should be durable. Thin sheet iron is not an option. Stand for the machine can be made of wood, but sufficient thickness. His fastening also requires attention. It should be as reliable as possible, in all points provided on the window, and only on bolts.

Determining with the engine power circuit, it is necessary to envisage the possibility of changing the number of revolutions. Since you have to work with various drills, you need to know - the harder the material of the tool, the lower the angle rotation speed of the abrasive circle should be.

As practice shows, not all considerable masters understand when the drill needs sharpening. Signs, testifying that the tool fastened:

grinds (sometimes "buzz") at the initial drilling stage;
Fast metal heating, often accompanied by a characteristic odor.

Untimely sharpening significantly reduces the service life of the drill and is the most frequent cause His breakdowns.

You need to have the drills always sharpened, and the special machine in the afternoon with fire will not delete even in specialized stores? And make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands. You can easily handle the assembly of a simple design if you have at least a little experience in working with basic instruments.

Homemade Machine

Device for sharpening the drill may be greater value in household as with the help this device You can independently sharpen the drills of any diameter and type. In addition to the manufacture of a special unit, you will need an electric motor with a grinding stone.

Main materials:

Metal plate with holes - 1 pc.;
Bolt or hairpin 70x15 mm;
A set of washers;
Corner - 30x30 or 40x40;
Plates - 3-4 mm thick;
Shplot - 30x1,5 mm;
Clamps.

In addition to the materials you will need tools for them. mechanical processing and compounds, in particular electrical welding and Bulgarian.

Instruments:

Electric welding.
Drill.
Bulgarian.
Hammer with shock beacons.
Special clamps 2 pcs.
Spanners.
Pliers.

Manufacturing process:

1. Production of the mounting plate

The mounting plate is made of metal lining with holes with a thickness of about 3-4 mm. On the one hand, the part is cut off by 3 centimeters, while during the cutting required to save the finished hole. The cut part will be needed for the manufacture of the next part of the grinding device, and the large element for the lining during the installation of the product on the table.

2. Corner for fixing drill

The element is designed to fix the drill during sharpening. It is manufactured by cutting a part of a regular corner of 30x30 or 40x40. total length It vary in the range of 60-90 mm, while the extreme part is trimmed at an angle of 60 degrees to give the desired level to be drawn plane.

3. Fastening for a locking corner

The cut part with a hole from the plate is connected to another metal plate, while the elements are applied to each other are welded with an electric welding to the corner. For welding, it should be cut on the plates of a mounting cut to install items and rollery.

In the connected parts, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the bolt or stud, and the parts themselves are thoroughly cooled from all sides to give stiffness.

4. Bolt welding

Bolt or hairpin is designed to fix the corner. The element is welded at an angle of 75 degrees to the main plate. During the yard, the lower plane should be taken into account, if necessary, remove the slag to eliminate the skew of the product.

5. Fastening the washers to the bolt

A bolt washer is set at a level of 25 mm from the uppermost part. The approximate diameter is 30 mm. The element is welded using electrical welding in the desired design position in compliance with all levels by plane.

6. Hole in the heel

In the absence of a hole for the installation of a pin in the bolt (stud), it is required to make it using a drill and drill the desired diameter. Due to this technical element, a fixing corner will be fastened. The diameter may be different, but the main condition is reliable fixation.

7. Far for drill

It is made of a metal bar and a special hiking clamp. The bar is welded to the locking corner from below. The clamping mechanism is mounted on the rod, while on the device should be equipped with a special cup-stop for drill.

The system is mounted on a grinding table and fixed by additional clamps.

Video: how to make a fixture for sharpening drills.

Sharpening machine from a drill

This method is available to anyone. To do this, you will need a drill. Perhaps not immediately from the store of the store, but already morally outdated and you are not used. She will act as a motor.

It must be fixed on the bed, insert a sleeve or a finished circle or a universal fine-grained disk into the cartridge. Everything. Turning on the drill, you get a rotating abrasive, which is about which to sharpen the drill is one pleasure.

Very simple sharpening solution. However, do not forget about the fixtures for sharpening the drill that fixes the stuffed element relative to sharpened.