Homemade devices for a circular saw. Making a parallel stop and other useful devices for a circular saw

These simple and very useful attachments for a handheld circular saw -

parallel stop,
device for perpendicular cross cutting and trimming of boards,
guide bar for cutting sheet material,
positioning bars for precise placement of any guide and adjustable miter guide

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular machine and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and it will turn into a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

The second part of the video.

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How to make a circular saw with your own hands from a hand saw

If a person lives in a personal home or he has a summer cottage, then the presence of a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home master is not only better, but sometimes necessary. The simplest homemade guide rail for a circular saw or DIY. Unfortunately, the price of an industrially made standard of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply not affordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using a sewing machine drive or an ordinary electric drill for this. Selection of a saw blade for a circular saw blade. Disc needed for Choice of 190mm disc for. But the quality of the work and the range of operations performed almost entirely depend on the frame circular saw.

Bed design

The simplest frame of a circular saw, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8 ... 12 kilowatts, is quite affordable to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden bars. Below are several ways to make a table for a hand-held circular saw. For the drive, you can use the BOSCH GSB 19-2 electric drill (power 0.85 kilowatts) or DWT SBM-1050 (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, it is necessary to purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. Do-it-yourself guide for a hand-held circular saw. Of course, a wooden frame is not suitable for professional work, but in order to dissolve the boards, quickly saw through the bars, such a home-made design is quite enough.

In the general case, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, with manual self-production circular saw should strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the desktop will primarily be determined by the design of the attachment point of the cutting disc. Do-it-yourself guide rail for a hand-held circular saw. In self-made circular devices, either a circular disk is used, fixed directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-bearing shaft driven by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Countertop manufacturing

A few simple tools for manual circular saw. Part 1

These are simple and very useful. fixtures for manual disk saws- parallel stop adaptation.

Miter box or trimming for manual circular saw do it yourself

VK group It's easy to make adaptation, for sawing at different angles, c.

On the underside of the sawn piece, a slot for the disk is marked. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, fixing it with your own hands in an electric drill chuck. Circular table from a manual circular saw with your own hands. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple home-made copier from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps.
Further work depends on the disc attachment mechanism circular saws. The easiest way is to manually install it on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To give additional rigidity to the tabletop along its edges, it is desirable to fix stiffeners, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffening ribs are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the junction, which will fix the bar to the countertop along the entire junction plane.
The distance from the edge of the countertop to the bar should be 2.0 ... 4.0 centimeters.

Base design

For the safe operation of a homemade circular saws the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and solid base. To make it manually, the master's fantasy is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the dimensions of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing details

The main parameter that determines the design of a home-made "circular" is the thickness of the sawn boards. Have a circular saw A circular saw is a hand-held circular saw for sawing boards like. For do-it-yourself household work, it is usually not necessary to cut wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of cut, you can use and / or make a special disc lifting mechanism, but this will greatly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the frequency of rotation of its shaft should be taken into account. Do-it-yourself circular saw repair: how. Thus, the idea was born to make a table for a manual circular saw with your own hands. Using a belt drive, you can make a change in the number of revolutions with your own hands. If it is intended to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with a variable chuck speed, then use such a circular saw made do it yourself, will be a pleasure.

When you have your own house or suburban area, then a static circular saw will be an excellent assistant for you. With its help, you can quickly and efficiently carry out complex work on cutting various products. Such a tool can be purchased if the budget allows. Or you can create your own. It is also important to have the necessary equipment for it.

A circular saw. concept

A circular saw is a special saw that allows you to quickly and evenly cut wood products, plywood, laminate and various boards.

There are household and professional models. The first can function with pauses. Their engine needs breaks of 15-20 minutes. They do not withstand significant loads.

The latter have more powerful engines. They can work intensively for a very long time. Therefore, they are usually used in production.

For use in personal households, household modifications are used. And keeping professional versions is unprofitable.

The level of work and their types are determined by the bed of this tool.

About bed elements

Devices for different. The main one is the bed. If the power of the saw is insignificant (no more than 1.2 kW), it is easy to build such a bed yourself. Its length is affected by the length of the material going to the cut.

The Bosch electric drill is suitable for the drive, its parameter is 0.85 kW. It is mounted under the stove with a special bracket.

The accuracy and evenness of the cut is better when the workpiece rests entirely on the table surface. And if the table has too large parameters, it will fill the entire working area. We need an average here. The height is selected according to your height, so that it is more convenient to work.

Materials and tools

Bakelite plywood with a minimum density of 5 cm is bought for the table.

In addition to it, you will need:

Board 5 x 10 cm.
Bars 5 x 5 cm.
Clamps.
A set of self-tapping screws.
Glue and varnishes.
Manual circular.
Electric jigsaw.
Manual cutter.
Drill.

Making a table

When you need to assemble fixtures, the first step is to create a bed. It consists of a base and a tabletop.

The design of the second element is influenced by the fastening structure of the working disk.

The process of creating a key attachment for a circular saw takes place in several stages. They are outlined below:

Creating legs

The assembly of a complete fixture for a circular saw is not limited to the indicated stages.

For the legs you will need a board 5 x 10 cm. Their height is 1-1.2 m.

The board is cut along the longitudinal vector. In this case, a slight angle is observed on one side.

The legs fit on the table top. During installation, they should be slightly apart.

They are attached outside the stiffeners. Fastening method - bolted. To strengthen their stability, you will need screeds. They need a 5 x 5 cm bar.

It is placed in the previously created groove from the bottom zone of the countertop. The sole is fixed with bolts. The disc is placed in the slot.

The table is varnished in 3-4 layers. This is a measure against moisture.

Turning on and off

The assembly of the main attachment for the circular saw is almost complete. It remains to establish the launch and shutdown of the tool. The simplest solution here is this - the start key is pulled together with a wire, and the saw is turned off by the mains wire.

A more complicated method - this key must be shunted. And the control buttons are displayed on the outer plane of the front stiffener.

The miter saw attachment is especially useful when you need good cross cuts.

Such a device can be made independently using the proposed technology:

The base is being assembled. Two parallel strips 2.5 x 5 cm are glued to the upper zone of plywood with parameters 1.8 x 30 x 122 cm. They are attracted with screws.
Corners are attached to them (their material is aluminum). Fixing method - countersunk head screws. Mounting angle - 90 degrees. Fastening occurs in parallel at a distance identical to the width of the saw base.
The tool is adjusted to cut the planks to a shallow depth at the base.
The device is fixed with clamps. The workpiece is placed under the corners. A cut is made.

If the saw does not go well, this area can be smeared with paraffin, but with a thin layer.

Long cut question

Creating a fixture for a hand-held circular saw that will help you make long cuts is relevant for many home craftsmen. It makes the job remarkably easy.

Its easy to make. DVP is taken. A sample is cut from this material. It is identical to the distance from the extreme side of the tool base to the extreme part of the disk from the inside.

When cutting, you need to rely on the length of the base of the tool.

The edge of the sample is aligned with the designation of the cut on the workpiece. A straight piece is applied to the second side. This is a guide. It is fixed with a clamp.

On the second marking, this operation is duplicated, but on the opposite side of the workpiece.

To create a template, it is best to use a router or a jigsaw.

If chips are obtained from the disc in work, you can not do without the following device for a hand-held circular saw, assembled by yourself.

Technology:

The hardboard element is cut out. Its density is 6 mm. When cutting, you need to focus on the width of the base of the tool.
The disk is removed. The protective cover is raised. The result of step 1 is attached to the base with double-sided tape. After that, the saw starts. The disc fits smoothly into the hardboard. It turns out zero clearance in work.

Sawing should be done with a slight return on the created base.

tenoning device

The tenoning device for a circular saw increases the efficiency and accuracy of the production of tenon-and-groove joints. They are involved in the assembly of various carpentry products: furniture, doors, frames, frames, etc.

With this device:

Workpieces are located without distortions.
Operations are repeated scrupulously.
The end result is of high quality.

Such a device can be purchased or made on your own. Experts recommend the first option. This is a full guarantee of achieving excellent results.

Often buy these models: Felisatti FTJ and Festool VS 600 GE.

This is a reliable and proven technique.

sharpening question

The circular saw should be sharpened when the following symptoms appear:

It becomes harder to work with her.
It leaves black marks on the material.
There is a foul odor and smoke.

Ideally, it should be sharpened on a professional machine. If not, you will need a tool for sharpening circular saws.

Necessary set for work:

Vice.
File with a flat functional side.
Bar.

You should work with gloves.

Sharpening steps:

Hard drive fixation. It is removed from the saw and fastened in a vise. In this case, wooden dies are used. You can leave it in the saw, but stick a bar between its teeth. The bar rests on some surface.
The initial clove is marked.
The back of the tooth is processed with a file. They need to swipe it several times. The effort is small. Each tooth is sharpened in turn. At the same time, the movements are uniform, the number of file passes is the same.
The anterior parts of the teeth are being processed. The principle is the same.

The points of the teeth should be perpendicular to the surface of the disc.

Then all the teeth are inspected for defects. Edges must not be shiny. If so, they are smoothly filed.

After that, the disk is checked in the case. It is placed in a saw. She turns on. A test block is used. If the saw is light, smooth and quiet, then the sharpening is of high quality.

Otherwise, you need to check the height of the teeth. To align them, you need to bring the marker to the working edge. Then the disk must go through the entire revolution in the opposite direction from rotation. All teeth are marked. On it you can align their height. The highest teeth are carefully processed with a file.

Conclusion

A circular saw is a very useful tool in the household. But it becomes even more effective if it is provided with the necessary devices.

A manual circular electric saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting lumber.

Included with it are usually supplied devices that help the master in his work.

But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. Yes, and work experience will sooner or later lead to the appearance of completely home-made devices (as they are called), which, for all their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.

Parallel stop

The regular circular fence is a good example of how a small addition can make a big difference. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a parallel stop for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful tool.

The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values that allow it to cut with a width of less than 20–25 mm. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the protective casing of the saw. But it is enough to attach a wooden block to the parallel bar of the regular stop with screws - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts less than 15 mm, the bar does not allow the protective cover to close the saw blade.

Stop for transverse and angled cuts

A cross cut device is also often used. With it, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90 °. Such an emphasis is also used for trimming boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. A guide bar or rail with a height of at least 20 mm is fixed on it with glue or self-tapping screws. An emphasis is attached to the underside of the base, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar.

The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of a manual circular, the fixture is always made individually. It is usually attached to the material being processed with clamps.

Advanced craftsmen make their fasteners from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. The clamp is carried out with a wing nut on the screw. Such a clamping device allows you to very quickly fix the stop on lumber of different widths.

If you install the same bar on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first one, and then also cut off part of the base at 45 ° with a saw, you will get an angular universal stop for cuts at both 45 ° and 90 °. A more versatile design of the corner stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor, fixed on top. It should be noted that making a do-it-yourself protractor for a circular is a more difficult task.

saddle stop

If you have to saw a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then you should spend time making a simple saddle stop. Its use will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle stop works especially effectively when sawing thick bars, for which the disc requires two cuts from different sides.

Emphasis-saddle has a U-shape. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.

Side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls must be greater than the width of the cant in order to support the platform of the circular until the saw blade comes into contact with the cant.

The saddle is put on the beam at a distance from the cut marking, corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and is pressed against the beam with clamps through the sidewalls. Using the sidewall as a stop for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the beam is such that one cut is not enough, then it is turned over and another cut is made. The position of the stop does not change in any way.

Guide bar

For cutting large and long sheets of lumber on the table, a long hand-made guide rail for a circular saw will be useful.

The basis in this case is (8–10 mm) plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The tire itself can be wooden (a bar 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped profile. The tire is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it should remain a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for fastening to the sheet with clamps. On the other hand, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After that, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disk. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is fixed and the sheet is sawn.

Edge stop

This is already a rather complicated device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work, so as not to miss the size. In fact, such an emphasis is included in the circular saw kit, but its short length does not always provide an even cut. Large size and desired strength require the base of the stop to be made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. From it you can also make a stubborn bar.

Steps for making a stop:

at the base, longitudinal grooves are made for the dowels;
hardwood dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
between the longitudinal grooves, another through groove is made to secure the thrust bar during operation;
a hole is cut in the base for the circular saw blade;
on the sides of the base, restrictive strips are placed for the installation of a circular and clamps are provided for its secure fastening.

When the stop is placed on the material being processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the required distance and is fixed through the through slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to suffer every time with a ruler, you can fix it (or a piece of tape measure) on the basis of the stop along the guide grooves.

There are such small devices that even a tool is shameful to consider. At the same time, they are great for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.

Setting bars

The simplest detail that facilitates the installation of any stop and a marking guide is a bar of small section. Cuts are applied on it, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two of these bars will help to install any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. It remains only to fix the guide.

Pull-out protection

Protection can be any bar, the width corresponding to the thickness of the workpiece being cut. If it is fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the material being processed, it will act as a limiter and serve as protection against tearing and chipping.

These devices are not limited to a set of useful homemade products that make it easier to work with a hand-held circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others require time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for a circular with their own hands. There would be a desire.

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the artisan exerts force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back)	Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· The complexity of the design, · The weakening of the design of the circular table, · The fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or can be used.
Screwdriver.
Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Massive pine.
Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

clamp

Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or, as an option, a false table can be made “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.