Tool for self-sharpening drills. Drawings of a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands Stand for sharpening drills with your own hands

How to sharpen drills with the correct sharpening angle without much work and skills? Unfortunately, many of us do not succeed the first time. This device is very simple in design. Therefore, each of you each will be able to repeat it. Many people know that the edges of bolts and nuts have the same angle as the standard sharpening of the drill. This is what we will use. We won't weld the two nuts together to get the correct template. The design is slightly different.

First you need any nut. The larger the diameter, the larger the drill diameter can be sharpened in it.

The nut has 6 faces, 2 of which we need. We take a caliper and mark 4 mm from the edge of the nut. We turn the nut over and over and make a mark on the edge that is one and a half mm larger than the first one. We make a triangle with 2 sides. Cut with a hacksaw or grinder. It turned out a nut with cuts.

We weld on one more. The device is almost ready. He lacks the puck, which we throw in the middle. You will also need a bolt, it is screwed into a small nut.

The cuts in the nut have different depths, which differ by 1.5 mm. This difference is hardly noticeable to the eye. We insert the bar, fix it, apply a ruler. The gap between the ruler and the round timber is smaller on the left than on the right. That is, the device has a certain angle. Where the gap is smaller, the master has put a mark.

The work of the mechanism is adapted

We take an even, not sharpened drill, place it in the device. Where the mark is, the drill must be placed, as shown in the photo and video. We fix the drill so that it looks out a little from the edges. The drill will be sharpened on the working side. IN the above example can be clamped up to 8 mm in diameter.

When we start to grind the edge of the drill on emery, there is a guide in the form of a plane of the edge of the nut, which sets correct angle sharpening.

This is a cool device for those who cannot find the right angle by eye.

The video shows how to set the tool in relation to the emery wheel. From 6 minutes you can see how the drill is being machined.

Alexander Polulyakh.

In addition to this video tutorial, there is another DIY device using bolts and nuts.

Drawing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8iB5ht2WrqOMEJiZlRtZ2VWdVE/view

For fast and high-quality drilling of holes, you need sharp drills, which tend to dull over time. Best of all, this tool hones the machine for sharpening drills... At home, you can also use special tools.

1

Drill sharpening machine is a highly specialized automated equipment designed only for sharpening drills. According to the scope of use, the following types of these devices are distinguished:

Industrial - they have high power, they sharpen various drills with a diameter of 20 mm and more. The main purpose of such equipment is intensive work on large enterprises with high degree profile specialization. In industrial equipment, the drill is sharpened in whole or in part automatic mode at the desired angle using a fixing unit (special clamp).
Household - used exclusively in small production or at home. The device of these machines is characterized by low power, compactness and mobility. It is possible to sharpen drills of medium and small size, which are used most often in everyday life.

A household machine for sharpening drills in front of all other devices and devices used to restore the sharpness of the tool has a lot of important advantages, among which, first of all, it is worth noting the following:

works from electrical network with standard voltage;
high degree of productivity;
ease of use;
high level of sharpening accuracy and functionality;
affordable price in acceptable limits the capabilities of any home master;
has a low weight and compact size;
comfortable ergonomic system control provides regulation of speed and intensity of sharpening.

2

All household machines are designed for sharpening from high-speed steel of a certain range of diameters that is structurally incorporated into the device. Many machines can sharpen tools equipped with carbide inserts- for this, a diamond wheel is supplied or additionally purchased in the kit. Usually, their capabilities provide for sharpening drills with a taper angle at the apex in the range of 90–140 o along the flank surface with backing and sharpening of the cutting transverse edge. But there are also specialized modifications for metal drills:

left;
with two-plane backing;
high-performance;
three-toothed;
others.

The most convenient machines for home use are machines with universal chuck for clamping drills of various diameters within the technically permissible range of sizes, as well as devices equipped with a set of removable chucks that are attached to the body of the machine itself and are always at hand.

Such equipment is usually equipped with a window through which you can observe the centering of the drill in the working area of the machine. The machine comes with standard accessories: CBN discs, a set of collets, keys, spare parts. Additional accessories can also be supplied: diamond circles, additional set of collets, lamp for working area and others. Most known types similar machines: Drill Doctor, GS and their Chinese counterparts.

According to the range of sizes of drills to be processed, these machines are produced in two main types (with different extreme values of diameters): from 2 mm to 13 mm and from 13 mm to 34 mm. Their disadvantages: poor sharpening of thin drills (the accuracy of machines is not designed for this) and the impossibility of sharpening very thin ones. For small-diameter tools, you will need a special machine for sharpening drills - for example, VZ-389SP, designed for sharpening 0.4–4 mm tools and equipped with a 30-fold optical device to control the sharpening process.

3

Before choosing a machine for sharpening drills, it is necessary to determine the future scope of work for it, because when buying, you need to be guided by certain operational parameters . If the device is supposed to be used at home (for example, in the country or in the garage), then you can purchase a low-power, inexpensive model- given that the machine will not be used constantly, high-power equipment will be completely useless. In addition, industrial devices are designed for sharpening large-diameter drills and consume much more electricity than household models.

When buying a machine, you should pay Special attention for the presence of a special regulator designed to adjust the spindle rotation. This option will make the work as efficient and safe as possible.

Another important parameter is the size of the drills, which should be determined by the range of the proposed work. Selectable household machine should have enough low level the noise generated, especially when the equipment is planned to be used not in a separate room, but directly in a residential area.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the design of the vending model - it is best if it is as simple as possible. In this case, any breakdown will not cause much trouble - it will not be difficult to find and purchase the necessary new part and put it instead of the broken one. It should be noted that most foreign models in terms of their Maintenance quite expensive, and finding the right part for replacement can sometimes be difficult. And the last recommendation: choose a drill sharpening machine only in specialized retail outlets and stores where a warranty card and technical passport will be issued.

4

In enterprises, in some cases, the driller sharpens the drills himself by hand on conventional sharpening machines, which are equipped with a special device for this purpose. To do this, he must first study the rules for sharpening drills and take special preparatory courses. The used drill sharpener is a steel structure equipped with a movable drill clamp with an adjustable angle of inclination relative to the rotating grinding wheel and having a fastener for fixing on the body of the sharpening machine.

It is also not uncommon for an enterprise to use no devices at all when sharpening by hand on an ordinary sharpening machine. The drill right hand hold by the shank and with the left as close to the cutting edge as possible. The cutting edge of the tool is pressed against the side surface of the abrasive wheel and, at the same time, with the right hand, the drill is smoothly rocked, trying to achieve that its rear surface takes the desired shape and acquired the correct slope. You need to remove the metal in small layers, slightly pressing the tool to the circle. It must be ensured that the cutting edges of the drill are of the same length and have the same sharpening angles.

Errors made during manual sharpening, can lead to the following disadvantages of the drill:

cutting edges of unequal length;
the angles formed by the cutting edges with the tool axis are different;
the transverse blade has a one-sided groove.

As a result of these defects, the drill will:

beat;
incorrectly, unilaterally loaded on the cutting edges - may break;
drill holes larger than the drill itself.

After sharpening, the tool should check for the transverse edge its width and correct position relative to the cutting edges, the length of the latter, the angle: in plan φ, inclination of the transverse edge, clearance angle α, double sharpening φ1, at the top 2φ. To check all these parameters, enterprises use special templates. The correct location of the jumper is determined using an optical device. At enterprises, in a number of cases, the runout of the drill is checked - they use for this special device.

Drills for metal from high-speed steels are sharpened on wheels for grinding made of white and normal alumina on a ceramic bond with a grain size of 16–40, hardness CM, as well as on wheels made of elbor. When sharpening tools that are equipped with carbide inserts, they are used from synthetic diamonds, as well as from green silicon carbide with a grain size of 16–40.

5

Without a special machine, at home you can use the following equipment for sharpening drills:

ordinary sharpening machine;
electric drill;
homemade sharpeners.

To use a simple sharpening machine, it is better to purchase a special device, because before you independently learn how to properly sharpen the tool without it, you can ruin more than a dozen drills. This device for sharpening drills has approximately the same device as the industrial described above. There are options not with attachment to the machine body, but with a separate installation on a horizontal surface near the rotating grinding wheel. Such a device can be homemade. It can be made of wood: on its base, a bar is attached with several holes for the diameter of the required drills, drilled at an angle, providing the desired sharpening angle. It is possible to provide for a change in the slope - the sharpening angle.

In the case of an electric drill, a special attachment for sharpening drills is used. Unfortunately, they come across on sale only for sharpening at an angle of 118 ° and only for tool sizes 3.5–10 mm (domestic) and 2.5–10 mm (imported). Moreover, both those and others are only for drills with a spindle neck with a diameter of 43 mm. There are 15 drill holes in the body of these attachments. different diameters... The attachments are equipped with a stone, the sharpening surface of which is located at a certain angle, and a leash for it, inserted into the drill chuck.

Having changed the length of the leash once (by shortening it), the nozzle is adjusted to work with one specific drill. They work with it as follows: a leash with a stone at the end is inserted into the drill chuck; the nozzle is put on the spindle and fixed with a screw; start the drill and insert the drills into the hole of the nozzle body of the corresponding diameter. You can also make a similar device yourself. IN homemade nozzle it will be possible to provide for the required sharpening angles and tool diameters.

Homemade devices can be made in the form of conventional sharpening machines. It is better to immediately provide for a method of attaching and sharpening drills on them, so as not to come up with additional devices for this.

In the process of machining hard workpieces, drills are subject to rapid wear. A blunt working element heats up significantly and loses its strength characteristics. This is due to the "release" of the metal alloy. The tool needs to be sharpened from time to time. However, this point does not only apply to drilling attachments.

Drills are fairly cheap items. At least the variations used at home. One way or another, but acquire new nozzle immediately after its bluntness is at least unreasonable.

There are also factory tools for sharpening, but this violates the concept of the expedient use of home tools.

Drills designed for wood processing are almost never blunt. The product can only be "driven" in resinous construction and at high rpm. Pobedit tips required for processing stone and concrete are usually not sharpened. All that remains is the sharpening of the metal fixtures. Some experienced locksmiths do this work with their own hands, without resorting to the use of additional funds.

But in this case, the accuracy and quality of work may be in doubt. And not every home craftsman has a good eye.

How to make a sharpener for drills yourself

First you need to make a template which will allow you to control the precision of the machining.

Conventional drills designed for working with ferrous metal are characterized by an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If you constantly work with various materials, you should read the following information:

textolite and plastic - from 90 to 100 degrees;
any wood - 135;
granite and ceramics - 135;
cast iron, carbide bronze and steel - from 115 to 120;
soft bronze and brass-based alloys - from 125 to 135;
aluminum alloys - 135.

Based on this data, you can make several useful templates that will help you make the highest quality and most accurate sharpening of the drill.

The easiest sharpening option- different bushings, which are fixed on a reliable and sturdy base.

It is recommended to make a clip of aluminum and copper tubes, matching them to the most common drill diameters... You can also drill several holes in a block of non-solid material. The most important thing is to put a comfortable handguard on the sharpener, which serves as a support and allows you to move the sharpening device at the required angle.

This method was actively used by our grandfathers. And for the material of the corner (sharpening machine), they used a strong oak bar.

In fact, it is enough to place a workbench or table on the side of the emery - and the device for sharpening drills with your own hands is ready. At the same time, the level of accuracy and quality of sharpening will be extremely high.

There are many blueprints for the manufacture of the structure of sharpening devices. You can resort to already ready options or make them on your own. The most important thing is to understand the processing principle.

When processing, do not allow the drill to rotate around its own axis. In the event that the tool is turned even a millimeter, it will deteriorate and you will be forced to grind a certain length for additional processing.

Errors

To the most common mistakes self-sharpening drills include the following:

For that, to make a fixture yourself for sharpening drills, you should adhere to the following rules:

All the means for creating such a device can be found even at home or in the garage. They should be processed with a grinder, welding and a sharpener.

Drill sharpening can be done manually, on machines or special abrasive discs.

If you are sharpening the drill by hand, then it is necessary:

hold firmly by the shank, and with the other hand guide its spiral part;
cutting edge press the drills to the side surface of the abrasive wheel;
after sharpening one side, it is necessary to smoothly turn the drill, while the cutting edges must necessarily have the correct inclination to the axis and take the desired configuration.

The drill is sharpened on both sides alternately. When doing this, be sure to check the cutting edges.

Remember! The point of the drill should be exactly in the center.

Otherwise, it will deviate during operation. It is worth noting that in no case should you press hard on the drill, otherwise it may get defects (bending).

For example, if after sharpening, you notice that the cutting edges are uneven and sloped under different angles to the axis, this means that the middle of the cross edge is not in the center of the drill, and it will not work correctly.

When sharpening, be sure to pay attention to the initial angle of the tool. It is he who will become your guideline in the future. Then inspect the gimbal for damage:

if you find serious defects, then you can use coarse sandpaper;
if the defects are small and the drill is just a little dull, use a lapping wheel. This operation is necessary for thin drills;
if a drill for concrete has defects in the shank taper - process the upper part of the tool, gently pressing it against the grinding wheel;
after processing, carefully inspect the back surface of the drill again;
if you notice, or determine with a template that you have got a perfect taper, you have sharpened the tool correctly.

After that, machine the cutting edge of the drill. The size of the jumper for rational turning of the tool should be 1-1.7 mm.

What are the features of grinding machines

The self-made device for sharpening drills is designed for through and blind gimbals made of steel, cast iron and various hard alloys. Depending on the type, the machines can be provided with different functions. On some of them, the angle can be varied during operation.

Sharpening machines are:

universal - used for various cutting tools;
specialized - for one type.

It is to universal machines include devices for sharpening drills, because they can handle:

taps;
cutters;
dumbbells;
countersinks.

Machine tools fall into two categories:

Industrial - have high power and are designed for sharpening large-diameter tools. The power depends directly on the engine.
A household drill grinder is quite compact and is often used for home use. Even small diameter drills can be processed with it.

There are seven sharpening methods:

One-plane.
Complicated screw.
Shaped.
Elliptical.
Conical.
Two-plane.
Screw.

How to make a drill sharpener

To make a homemade machine tool, you will need:

toggle switch;
abrasive wheel;
stub;
engine;
stand;
wires.

Follow our advice:

For safety reasons, place the homemade machine in the case, leave only the axle and the abrasive wheel outside. Remember, the device will operate on mains power.
In advance, choose a place where your drill sharpener will stand. It is desirable that it be on a metal table.
Next, place the electric motor on the tabletop using fasteners (clamps) and mark the locations of the holes for the bolts if it has legs.
Then remove the motor and make 4 holes.
Reinstall the motor later and secure it carefully with the bolts.

Advice: If the engine does not have legs, you can strengthen it with metal strips (clamps).

The electric motor for our future machine should be equipped with a special elongated shaft, on which a granular disc should be put on. For this:

Install the retaining nut, having previously cut the right-hand thread on the end of the shaft.
Secure the disc with washer and nuts.

If the diameter of the shaft and the bore of the disc match, install a washer and then an abrasive disc on the shaft. If the diameter of the shaft and the hole do not match, then you need to add a bushing.

Pre-make it a special side opening threaded for the bolt to be able to fit tightly onto the shaft. Then you can put on the sleeve.

If you cannot decide on an electric motor, then just take the old motor washing machine... It is perfect for homemade device sharpening.

It is worth noting that you must prepare the starter and the wires in advance, which will subsequently need to be connected. It is very important that the starter has at least three to four open contacts. Its winding must be connected with two buttons to the phase line.

Attention! The electric motor will be unsafe, regardless of the type - during operation, the rotating shaft can accidentally wind up the cord, wire, hair.

Advice: Craft metal box to protect the machine from dust, abrasive particles, and you from accidental injury.

How to sharpen a drill correctly on a machine

When sharpening, make sure that the two drill shoulders are the same. If you achieve such a match, then the axis of rotation of the drill will completely coincide with the center of the hole.
Always make sure the abrasive wheel is firmly attached before sharpening.
Always start the process with a coarser abrasive. After the burr appears on your drill, you can change the abrasive to a finer one.
Watch your sharpening angle.
Do not switch the windings to reverse the abrasive wheel. It should always only move in the direction of the blade.

Please note that the drills cannot tolerate excessive heat build-up. Cool the gimbal regularly while sharpening. But under no circumstances immerse a red-hot drill into the water, as cavities may appear in it.

Additional accessories

Guide

To avoid holding the drill bit while sharpening (this can lead to injury), provide a backing or guide in the form of a small attachment. It is made from a strip of metal, bent as shown in the figure and screwed to the bed (base). The drill is supported on it and brought to the circle at the desired angle.

Protractor

Make on the guide described above, marks (marks) at the required sharpening angles. It will become much more convenient to use it.

If this is difficult for you, cut off the top of a regular protractor and glue it onto the guide.

Angles less than 30 0 are not used for sharpening, so we sacrifice them.

Universal fixture

To facilitate sharpening of tools, in particular drills, a mechanism has been developed that consists of a drill chuck, a shaft, roller guides (slide) and a protractor.

The main backing described above is made wide. A protractor is glued to it. A hole is drilled into which a bolt is inserted, which serves as an axis for the pivot surface.

A plate is installed on it on a roller slide, on which a pipe with a chuck on an axis is fixed. The plate itself moves forward / backward using a conventional feed mechanism (threaded axle).

In the lower part of the swivel plate, an offset stop indicator is fixed. It serves to rotate the device to the desired angle and to stop it.

Working with the fixture

The device for sharpening drills is useful in any household. After all, working with a blunt drill is one torment. The mechanism can be made by hand using unnecessary and outdated parts.

Drill sharpening rules

The drills can be sharpened on special grinding wheels, manually or on machine tools. Before starting work, carefully examine the drills: if there are serious defects on the surface, you need to start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. If the tool is a little dull, use a lapping disc.

When sharpening by hand with your own hands, you need to follow the rules:

hold the shank with one hand, adjust the working end with the other;
process the cutting edge with the side of the grinding wheel;
first, one side is sharpened, after which the drill is carefully turned over and the other is processed.

It is important to maintain the original shape of the drill and the direction of the cutting edges during machining. Care must be taken to ensure that the tip of the nib does not move away from the center, otherwise, during operation, the tool will deviate to the side. If the angle of the cutting edges is not the same after sharpening, the drill performance will be poor. This is determined using a template made by hand, or by eye: the shape of the tip should make a cone. To avoid mistakes, it is better to edit on specialized devices.

Types of sharpening equipment

A homemade device is provided for sharpening drills from various metals, cutters, taps, cutters, countersinks, cutters.

Equipment can be:

specialized - processes a single type of instrument;
universal - used for all types of cutters and drills.

Self-made mechanisms are more often of a universal household type. Industrial machines are powerful and handle large tools. There is no need for such at home, they are noisy, take up a lot of space and are energy-intensive.

Household tools are suitable for sharpening small and medium diameter drills, they are compact and economical.

Making a sharpening machine

To assemble the machine with your own hands, you need to prepare:

electric motor;
grinding disc;
toggle switch;
stand;
electric cable;
stub.

All components of the machine with their own hands are placed inside the case. This will make your work safe and comfortable. Only the motor pulley on which the grinding disc is fitted should be accessible. The machine is permanently attached to the workbench, so a place must be chosen in advance.

place the electric motor in the right place, mark the attachment points on the table;
drill holes for the mounting bolts;
put the electric motor back in place and screw it to the workbench; clamps made of thin metal strips are suitable for fastening;
install the protective case;
Slide the grinding wheel onto the engine pulley.

It is advisable to select an engine with an extended pulley, otherwise it will have to be delivered. The washer is put on first, after which the circle. If the diameters of the pulley and disc do not match, an adapter sleeve is used. The side of the sleeve is done threaded hole, an additional mounting bolt is screwed into it.

By power for homemade machine suitable engine from washing machine... Do not select a motor with high revs, as the sharpening of the drills takes place at a low speed.

Now you can connect the electrical component: toggle switch, motor and connect them to the outlet.

Additional devices

Hand-made accessories will make the work of sharpening drills more convenient and accurate.

Template for verification. The template is cut from a sheet of thin (1 mm) soft metal (aluminum, copper). The template reveals the angles at the tip, the length of the working edges, the angle between the working edge and the bridge. Since it is almost impossible to check the clearance angle of the drill with a template, the angle of sharpening is verified. Cut out the template before using the drill for the first time.

Guide. This is a small attachment, which is made of a metal strip and is fixed to the body with a bolt. During operation, the drill is placed on the guide and brought to the grindstone.

Protractor. On the stand, which is described above, the divisions of the sharpening angles are applied. You can cut off part of the metal protractor with corner marks and attach to the stand. You need to cut off a part with angles of more than 30 degrees, since smaller ones are not used when sharpening.

A device that facilitates sharpening drills. It is a fixed bed and holder with holes for inserting cutters different sizes... The holder can be removed. The bed is made of a 50 mm board, a rail is attached to it at an angle of 32 degrees. The rail exposes the tool holder to the required angle. The do-it-yourself holder is cut from a bar, the surface of which is removed at an angle of 65 degrees. The beveled part fits to the rail. The bevelling angles of the holder and lath depend on the type of sharpening.

Multifunctional mechanism

Drill sharpening will become easier with this mechanism. The device consists of:

roller skids;
guide;
shaft;
protractor;
drill chuck.

The guide should be made wide enough, a protractor is attached to it. The pivot is a bolt inserted into the hole provided. Guides and a movable plate are placed on the rotary part. An axis, a tube, is fixed on its surface, on one side the axis ends with a drill chuck, on the other with a handle. The movement of the thrust plate is provided by the threaded axle.

At the bottom of the thrust plate there is a limiter (also known as a pointer), which simultaneously indicates the required displacement angle and fixes it in the desired position.

The mechanism works as follows:

the drill is fixed in the chuck;
the thrust plate is locked at the required angle;
the tool is rotated along the longitudinal axis using the handle;
mark the corner;
turn the cutter 90 degrees and process the second half, reaching the marked angle.

Sharpening rules on a homemade machine

When machining the drills, both shoulders must be identical. This means that the drill will fit exactly into the hole and perform well drilling.
Before starting the machine with your own hands, secure the grinding wheel securely to the pulley.
Carry out the initial processing with a disc with a coarse abrasive. When you notice a burr on the drill, the disc should be replaced with a thinner one.
Hold the desired angle at all times while sharpening.
The circle should only rotate in one direction, along the blade.
Do not overheat the torch; cool it periodically during processing. Do not immerse an overheated instrument in cold water, this contributes to the cracking of the metal.

Several options for sharpening drills in the videos.