Homemade lathe chuck. Homemade universal lathe for metal Homemade chucks for a lathe for wood

A faceplate for a wood lathe is a part in the form of a steel disk with holes for fixing a dimensional workpiece. There are many types of faceplates that differ from each other:

material of manufacture;
disc thickness;
the size and configuration of the mounting holes;
manufacturing method;
heat treatment;
availability of additional accessories.

Turning is often encountered when working with concave workpiece planes, while the machined parts have a large section and thickness. It is problematic to fix such materials on other machines, bending prevents the necessary part of the workpiece from being captured.

Part characteristic

Faceplate is a cast metal disc with a threaded central hole for fixing it to the spindle of a wood lathe. In the faceplate, the workpiece is fastened with metal screws. They go right through the holes and screw into the wood securely.

When realizing a woodworking lathe is completed with a faceplate with an outer diameter of 100–150 mm. Additionally, specialists can purchase similar products of any size, with a different arrangement of mounting holes and working thickness.

When buying for home use, you must choose a faceplate with a maximum outer diameter. It should correspond to the base size of the workpiece bottom.

Prerequisites for using faceplates

When turning wood products, situations often arise when a turner is obliged to make jewelry processing of the edges, the accuracy of such manipulations on a standard unit is impossible. Especially if the part has large dimensions and uneven corners. Fixation of the workpiece on the faceplate is carried out using hooks.

The blank used to grind the bowl must be secured in the most careful way, otherwise the part will fall off the place of fixation and the work will be ruined.

There is a high likelihood of serious consequences and accidents if a heavy workpiece is torn off the machine spindle. Many professional wood turners make special fasteners with their own hands.

Universal holders, special chucks can provide a reliable way of fixing wooden blanks, especially if the machine is made by hand. But the safest among all highly qualified turners is considered to be a homemade faceplate made by a master for personal use. The product costs much less than the purchased ones, and in terms of reliability, durability, quality it is much superior to them.

The dimensions of the unit itself are small, it can fit in a small workshop or garage of a private house. Forced ventilation is not required in the room where the equipment will be used. Many craftsmen install the machine between two windows to enhance natural ventilation.

Flatbed at home

To assemble the unit at home, the master must know the work schedule, this will simplify the installation of all parts and allow the machine to be used for a long time. The technique is quite simple, but all points require attention from a specialist and dexterity. Step-by-step instructions for making a homemade faceplate:

Take a flat steel sheet 10 mm thick.
Steel, undamaged corner 50 × 50 mm, M8 × 30 bolts in the amount of 8 pieces, flat washers and nuts for them.
Carefully consider how a homemade faceplate for a wood lathe will be mounted in the spindle of the unit. Buy or carve a threaded sleeve.
Mark the steel plate with a circle of the required diameter. Apply two axes so that they pass through the center and intersect at a 90º angle.
With a jigsaw, make a circle along the marked line, sand carefully.
Moisten the through grooves along the central axes, not reaching 3 cm to the border of the part, moving away from the center by a few centimeters. It is better to pre-drill slightly larger holes than pre-drilled bolts.
Saw off four equal segments from a solid corner. Drill one shelf of each segment with the same drill as the plate.
In the other two shelves of the corners, cut the M8 thread. Screw the bolts into it.
Weld the threaded bush for fastening to the shaft to the plate.
Screw the corners to the faceplate through the washers with the bolts.
The faceplate for the lathe is made by hand. It is necessary to fix it on the spindle of the unit and start work.

Attach the faceplates to the spindle

To fix the workpiece with such a washer, the corners are moved to the required position and fastened with nuts. Each part is securely clamped with bolts, they are screwed into the shelves with an angle M8 thread.

DIY video instruction on how to make a cartridge, faceplate, photo and price

All photos from the article

There are many versions of lathes that can be used to machine wood blanks. They can be very tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and equipment elements.

In our case, we will use materials, the main ones of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at the construction market or in a store.

In the photo - wood lathe 3 in 1

Most of us, most likely, will doubt our abilities and will not even try to repeat what is proposed. At the same time, everything written below will not be difficult for those who have ever worked with wood. You will not see any special methods or techniques here, everything is as simple and accessible as possible.

Materials and equipment

Before you learn how to make a wood lathe yourself, you need to prepare for work.

In this case, you will need:

plywood 18 mm thick, from which basically all parts will be made;
boards 50 mm thick for the manufacture of the headstock;
bar with a section of 50x50 mm for the bed.

Equipment should be prepared:

Electric motor for 220V or 380V, depends on what voltage is suitable for your workshop.
Pulley - it is better to take a 3-strand pulley, with which you can adjust the optimal processing speed. It is advisable to purchase a joint pair.
V-belt.
Drill Chuck - Used as the main holder on the headstock. This is a kind of homemade chuck for a wood lathe.
An electrical box with a switch and its protection against unauthorized pressing.
Wood screws in various sizes.
Bolts, washers, butterfly nuts and T-nuts.
Plastic protective cover.
Steel plate.
Mounting rail for the movement of the tailstock along the bed - if its price does not suit you, you can replace it with an aluminum cornice.
Screw rod - adjusts the reliability of fixing the workpiece in the centers of the machine.
Union nut - is a stopper on the headstock.
Metal loops - allow for optimal belt tension on the pulleys thanks to the console.
Retaining rings - used to hold bearings in their seats.

A homemade faceplate for a wood lathe is used instead of a lathe chuck

Below is a step-by-step guide to the process.

Manufacturing the bed

The element has an important functional value and is a solid foundation for the rest of the moving parts of our machine.

"Bed" is made of 2 sheets of plywood, which are connected to each other using glue and self-tapping screws:

the first has a size of 18x500x1200 mm;
the second - 25x500x1200 mm.

"Bed" of the future wood lathe

Measure two 1200 mm long pieces on the block and cut them off.
Install on the “bed” with 50 mm spacing.
In each bar in the middle, make grooves for rails with a length of 900 mm for installing the headstock and install them.

Tip: instead of the standard T-shaped rails, you can use used aluminum curtain rods, they work just as well.

Machine engine

In this step, everything will depend on what kind of equipment you can buy or find in your home. We'll use a grinder motor, but it's better if you can get a motor with a low RPM speed of 1750 rpm.

Therefore, in our case, we will have to reduce the declared speed of 3000 rpm using sets of pulleys, for which it is better to use two sets - for the motor and the headstock of the machine.

A set of pulleys of different diameters allows you to adjust the rotation speed of the wooden workpiece

It is enough to purchase 3-step pulleys, which will help to set the speed from 700 rpm to more than 4000 rpm on the workpiece. Here is some sample data:

The motor is mounted on a plywood platform, which hangs freely, which creates the necessary belt tension

The engine platform will be plywood, which is hinged to the main frame. In this case, please note that each of them should be located 60 mm from the edge for secure attachment.

Self-made wood lathes with their own hands usually use a belt drive, while you need to move the belts on the pulleys yourself

For easy access to starting and stopping equipment, install an on / off button on the front of the lathe. Connection is not difficult - you have to insert it into the circuit between the motor and the 220/380 V network.

Protect the button with the top cover against unauthorized equipment start-up

Headstock

The element transmits rotation to the workpiece from the engine, reliably holds the equipment parts, so it must be powerful enough. Basically, the dimensions of the headstock depend on the diameter of the pulley. It can be made from hardwood or using a plywood sandwich that will be equally reliable.

The headstock must be as reliable as possible

In our version, we used 2 T-shaped blanks made of solid wood with a thickness of 150 mm and a height of 165 mm. We connected them together with a third workpiece of the “thorn-groove” type. The depth of the structure should correspond to the normal rotation of the largest diameter pulley.

Tip: you can also make 3 parts of the headstock from plywood.

All elements of the headstock must be screwed on securely

Its mechanism consists of two mandrels with bearings and retaining rings. Each of them is screwed to the headstock on both sides with self-tapping screws.

Tailstock

For manufacturing, take a ready-made sandwich made from glued plywood sheets.

T-shaped blanks have the following overall dimensions:

width - 150 mm;
height - 215 mm.

Tailstock chamfered angles don't matter, just 25˚

A hole should be made in the center in the upper part, which should coincide in level with the headstock chuck. To securely fix the workpiece in the centers, a 180 mm long screw rod is used.

The tailstock is attached to the bed with butterfly nuts

A lock nut is also used internally between the tailstock parts to limit the extension of the rod.

The lock nut allows you to adjust the extension of the screw rod

Inside, between the parts of the tailstock, additional wood elements must be inserted, which will increase its reliability. To move the screw rod from the outside, we recommend making a flywheel from interconnected pieces of plywood.

A plywood handwheel will make it easier to adjust the clamping of the workpiece on the machine

Protector for belt and grindstone

We hope you haven't forgotten how important safety precautions are when working with rotating elements. In our case, we should install a protective cover on the belt and the second part of the grinding mill, so that neither one nor the other can harm us in case of rupture or breakage.

Make a protective cover for the drive belt and grindstone

In the first case, you can purchase it in a store or make a plastic casing yourself, fixing it on both sides with two bolts and nuts. Its dimensions, for example, can be as follows - 450x170x270 mm. The main thing is that he does not interfere, but only protects the worker.

In the second case, you can use an old plastic bucket of a suitable diameter, which must be fixed over the emery wheel. It will spin constantly, so this protection will never be superfluous.

Support

To make it, take 18 mm plywood:

Make the base of the element from a wooden block measuring 100 x 300 mm. Then make a groove in it for free movement of bolts with butterfly nuts, which will be able to securely hold the caliper in the desired position.

Finished caliper on the bed

The second part is designed for installation on the base of the caliper and is rotary. The bar has rounded corners and two holes for bottom and top fastening.

Fastening the caliper to the bed

The third part holds the swing arm.
The fourth element is the main block for holding the support arm. Its sides should be cut at an angle of 45˚ for greater reliability. Can be replaced with metal.

The caliper consists of 6 elements

The most important element is the support arm, which must be glued and screwed to the bottom base as securely as possible. Its size is 100 by 200 mm, the bending of the sides is completed at a distance of 30 mm to its top, which is beveled at an angle of 30˚.
A metal plate mounted with 4 self-tapping screws on the top will reduce wear on the element.

With the support of the slide, you can machine the workpiece

Tip: Before using the caliper, check that the tool can slide easily on the plate.

Output

Today you learned how to make a wood lathe, which made the most of wood as the main material - plywood, beams and planks. It is quite possible to make this structure at home on your own, for which you will need to purchase or use an electric motor with transmission pulleys.

During work, it is necessary not to forget about the safety rules and goggles. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.

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Chucks for a lathe for wood, DIY manufacturing

Turning is a specific branch of woodworking, its difference lies in working with a rotating workpiece driven by a lathe motor. The master makes the supply of the cutting tool (cutter, milling cutter) with his own hands or by means of a mechanical drive. To reliably fix the workpiece and transfer torque to it, various devices and lathe chucks are used, the variety of which is due to a large number of techniques and turning techniques. Some of them can be made by hand without special equipment.

Four-jaw lathe chuck for woodworking machines

Thrust centers

Turning centers are subdivided into drive (gear), and persistent. The first ones are installed in the headstock of the machine and directly transmit the force; for better adhesion to the tree, they have several teeth. The latter are placed in the tailstock and support the part; by design, they can be rotating and stationary. Typically, the centers have a Morse taper shank.

Planes

The faceplate is a round metal plate with holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, mounted on the machine shaft by means of threads or bolts. They differ in diameter, presence or absence of teeth and additional fasteners. Used for turning plates, bowls and other similar products. Often made by hand. Working with a faceplate is thought out so that part of the wood into which the screws are screwed is subsequently removed.

Faceplate for 4-jaw chuck

Jaw lathe chucks

The most comfortable and functional. They work both in compression and in unclenching, so they can grip the workpiece both from the outside and from the inside. They differ in the number of cams and their drive mechanism.
Unlike metalworking, two and three-jaw chuck is practically not used for turning wood. Also, the options with a spiral drive and fixed cams are not popular.
The most common type of lathe chucks for woodworking are self-centering four-jaw chucks, with rack-and-pinion gear and interchangeable jaws.
They are supplied to the Russian market by the brands Axminster, Jet, Barracuda and other less well-known companies.

Jaw lathe chuck 4-jaw lathe chuck Ø150 mm 4-jaw lathe chuck Ø100 mm

Varieties of cams

In terms of shape and purpose, replaceable jaws for wood turning chucks are divided into several types with special markings:

A, G, M - for compression, differ in size and depth of capture;
D and F - act on unclenching;
C and H are universal. Different shapes of sponges;
for soft, compression-sensitive wood, rubber-mounted cams are used.

Additional accessories

When turning thin-walled products or working with fragile wood, metal fastening rings are used. Having the skill of handling metal, you can make them yourself.
Also, type C jaws can be paired with screw inserts that screw into a pre-drilled hole in the part.
Cartridges for specific woodworking tasks:

cam with independent adjustment - for eccentric turning;
collet - clamps round workpieces when tightening the tapered collet petals with a clamping nut. Has a small gripping range;
cylindrical - a tube with three or more threaded clamps around the circumference;
vise - for gripping rectangular workpieces. Parallel jaws are compressed with a screw;
vacuum - for fine finishing. Works due to the difference in air pressure generated by the pump;
drilling - for fixing drills. Fastened to the tailstock quill.

Set of driving cartridges MK2

Making a lathe chuck for wood with your own hands

For the manufacture of cam chucks, high-precision industrial equipment is required and it is hardly possible to make them in a home workshop. However, there are simpler designs, which are not difficult to build with your own hands.

Homemade wood turning faceplate with adjustable clamps

You will need a flat sheet of steel with a thickness of at least 10 mm, a steel corner 50 × 50 mm, eight M8 × 30 bolts with nuts and washers. You should think in advance how the device will be mounted on the machine and, if necessary, make or purchase the corresponding threaded bushing. Then you can start:

Mark on the existing plate a circle of the required diameter and two axes passing through the center and intersecting at right angles.
Cut out the workpiece of the faceplate with a jigsaw along the markings and grind it thoroughly.
Saw through the grooves along the resulting axes, stepping back from the center a few centimeters and not reaching 2 - 3 cm to the edges. It is easier to do this by pre-drilling holes of a slightly larger diameter than the stock bolts.
Saw off four identical segments from the corner and drill one of the shelves of each with the same drill.
In the second shelf of the corners, cut the M8 thread and screw in the bolts.
Weld or solder the threaded bush for mounting onto the shaft.
Bolt the corners to the faceplate through the washers.
Fix the resulting chuck on wood on a lathe.

To fix it with such a homemade cartridge, the corners are moved to the desired position and secured by tightening the nuts, finally the part is tightened with bolts screwed into the threaded shelves.

DIY wood vacuum chuck

If your lathe headstock spindle has a through hole for knocking out a gear center, you can add a homemade vacuum chuck to your arsenal. For this you will need:

Powerful vacuum cleaner
Closed bearing, approximately equal to the outer diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose
A piece of dense rubber hose for connecting the vacuum cleaner and the bearing
Clamp
Standard chuck with center hole
A small piece of MDF or thick plywood
Textolite for adapter

A bushing is machined from the PCB, one side of which should be equal in diameter to the inner dimension of the bearing, the other - to the spindle. This self-made adapter is pressed into the bearing with glue, it will be held in the machine due to the tight fit. The resulting structure is connected by a piece of hose with a vacuum cleaner and fixed with a clamp.

A disc is cut out of MDF or plywood, attached to a faceplate and turned. Better to make the surface slightly concave. On top, to ensure a tight fit, linoleum or thin rubber is glued.
The center of the disc is drilled through to remove air.
Such a hand-made cartridge provides a clamping force of 40-50 kg, sufficient to hold medium-sized parts during finishing.

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One of the most common tools for processing metal workpieces is a lathe. It can be used to make elements such as bush, coupling, bolt, nut, flange and others. The equipment can be purchased ready-made in specialized stores, but it is possible to make a homemade metal lathe at home.

Feature of machines

There are many types of lathes for metal processing. Each of them has its own design features, on which their functionality depends. In addition, each type has the ability to perform additional operations, for example, milling or drilling.

Regardless of the type of unit, their design may consist of the following units:

Depending on the type and model of the device, it can be equipped with additional attachments that will increase the functionality of the equipment.

Types of universal devices

Modern manufacturers offer users an extensive list of lathes. Among the most popular are the following types: turning-screw-cutting, turning-milling, turning-boring, turning-revolving.

Screw cutting machine

A feature of this type of equipment is the presence of the tailstock quill stroke. Thanks to this, it is possible to equip it with a drill chuck. This allows the machine to be used not only for turning operations, but also for turning workpieces with different profiles, leveling, making grooves and recesses in the workpieces, trimming to the required parameters, drilling holes. For this, dies, cutters or taps can be used.

Through the use of screw-cutting lathe units, you can work with workpieces made of ferrous or non-ferrous metals. This type of device is most often used in tool production, in the field of instrument making or watch production.

If the choice fell on a screw-lathe, it is recommended to take into account its following properties:

Milling device

With the help of this type of equipment, you can grind workpieces not only from ferrous and non-ferrous metals, but also from plastic and wood. The design of the device combines two types of machines (milling and turning).

The universal turning-milling machine can be used to perform such types of operations as through turning, tapping, chamfering, filing, cutting straight and curved grooves, drilling holes. This became possible due to the presence of the milling part located in the vertical plane of the bed. Such machines are often installed in school workshops.

The popularity of turning and milling equipment is due to the presence of its inherent advantages:

Availability. The combination of the two machine types results in cost savings.
Compact size. It can be installed in a workshop with a small footprint.
Possibility of mounting a variety of additional elements (cutter, drill, tap, reamer, cutter, chisel).

When choosing this type of equipment, it is necessary to take into account its following characteristics:

distance between centers;
workpiece size;
diameter of miter and end mill.

The presence of these qualities determines the popularity of turning and milling equipment among users.

Carousel

Machines of this type are mainly used for machining large diameters (more than 2000 mm) and dimensions in large enterprises.

Revolving unit

The main purpose of this type of device is to process workpieces made from a calibrated bar. The peculiarity of the machines lies in the fastening of the cutting mechanism, which is carried out on a rotating drum.

Machine tools with numerical software

In the process of working with this type of machine, minimal operator involvement is required. It is also worth noting the ability to perform all types of operations with high precision.

Each of the above types of metal lathes has design features and purpose.

Self-production

If we talk about what you can do from a drill with your own hands, you should pay attention to a lathe that can be made at home. This will help not only save money, but also make it possible to perform a fairly large list of operations with different materials.

In order to make a metal lathe with your own hands, the drawings of which can be found in specialized literature, you must first decide on the bed. It is considered one of the most significant pieces of equipment. It is on the bed that the turning attachment for the drill is mounted.

For the manufacture of the bed, you can use a plate made of a material such as wood, up to 21 mm thick. The drill is fixed by the neck of its body, on which the auxiliary handle will subsequently be mounted.

In order to be able to cut materials such as plywood or hardboard, it is necessary to install a circular saw in the drill chuck on the bed, the diameter of which does not exceed 2 mm. For the convenience of working with the machine, you can also mount an additional handle.

It is possible to replace the disc with a flat cutter. Thanks to this, the operator will be able to make shallow grooves.

Now you can start making the stop, which is designed to perform the function of the tailstock. Thus, a self-made caliper for a lathe with your own hands can be made from two wooden blocks and one adjustment screw with a sharpened tip. This will make it possible to use the machine for processing small pieces of wood.

If we talk about how to make a lathe out of a drill, it should be borne in mind that there are several options for devices that you can make yourself, the main thing is to have a ready-made template.

The support tends to wear out during the operation of the machine. At the same time, the possibility of backlash is not excluded, which will negatively affect the quality of the operation being performed. To avoid this situation, it is recommended to periodically adjust and tune the caliper.

The woodworking joiner machine has a frame. For its manufacture, you can use beams or metal channels. Their thickness and dimensions are directly dependent on the load with which the equipment will be operated.

Shafts with longitudinal guides are mounted on the beams. To fasten them, you can use a welding machine, bolts or a screwdriver.

The headstock can be made of a hydraulic cylinder, in the cavity of which two bearings are mounted. The wall thickness of the cylinder can vary from 5 mm or more. The cavity of the hydraulic cylinder is filled with a special lubricating fluid. Then the electric drive is mounted.

The electric motor is responsible for the movement of the cutting part of the machine. The engine power is directly related to the power of the device. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the size of the blanks, which will be processed on the wall:

to work with small workpieces, you can use a drive with a power of no more than 1 kW;
if it is necessary to process large-sized workpieces, it is necessary to select an engine whose power ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 kW.

A manual machine for processing metal or wood should be assembled taking into account the fact that all its nodes must be insulated. This will ensure the safety of the operator when working with the machine, as well as the strength of the structure.

Possible cutter options

The machine tool is necessarily equipped with a cutting part. There are several variants of this node. Among the most reliable are the following:

The correct choice of equipment will provide the ability to perform an extensive list of operations when processing workpieces, increase the accuracy of the work, and also reduce the time it takes to complete it. And the independent manufacture of a lathe for metal processing will help to reduce the funds required to purchase ready-made equipment.

The quality and performance of any equipment depends directly on the state of its equipment. It is especially important to accurately, quickly and reliably fix the workpieces on CNC machines and machine tools that work as part of the GPS. To reduce the time for positioning the workpiece on the machine, as well as increase the reliability and accuracy of its fastening, chucks for lathes are widely used.

Features of the lathe chuck

The lathe chuck is an integral part of the equipment complex when carrying out turning works. This structural part is intended for fixing piece blanks and bar stock on screw-cutting lathes, grinding, revolving and turning machines, as well as metalworking equipment. With a lathe chuck, you can clamp a wide variety of workpieces. The workpieces are attached to the inner plane of its hole, the outer surface or the outer surface for the shaft.

Lathe chucks with mechanized drives allow reducing the auxiliary time required for installing the workpiece on the equipment and removing it after processing, thereby increasing labor productivity. On the other hand, these products increase the processing accuracy, since they ensure the coordination of the blanks relative to the working bodies of the lathe and their reliable fastening, which eliminates deformation or displacement during processing.

Rohm (Germany), Bison-bial (Poland), as well as some domestic factories of technical equipment, tools and machine units are among the most famous world manufacturers of wood turning chucks in Europe. These products are quite expensive, but today it is simply impossible to imagine production without the use of lathe chucks.

Working principle of the lathe chuck

The use of the lathe chuck must be carried out indoors and in the absence of corrosive substances that provoke corrosion. Before starting work, the tightening bolts are tightened to the maximum with a wrench, then the lathe chuck is fixed on the machine, all the bolts are tightened with nuts and the lathe is started. It should be borne in mind that low speed is set to begin with to check the values of the end and radial runout of the lathe chuck at idle.

For fixing products on lathes, two- and three-jaw chucks are widely used, less often four-jaw chucks. For fastening and holding parts, the lathe chuck contains cams, the number of which varies from 2 to 6. In this case, lathe chucks come with independent movement of the cams and with direct attachment of the cams to the flange end of the spindle. Depending on the method of fastening the lathe chuck to the machine, the following types of fastening are distinguished: to the flanged end of the spindle, through the adapter flange, directly to the lathe spindle itself.

Centering of the workpiece in the chucks is achieved by the simultaneous movement of the clamping jaws in the radial direction. The jaws of the lathe chuck move simultaneously with the help of a disk, which has grooves on one side in the form of an Archimedean spiral, a bevel gear, which is coupled with three others, on the other. The wrench sets one wheel in motion, while the disc also turns and moves all the cams evenly. The direction of rotation of the disc will determine whether the cams approach the center of the chuck (clamp the workpiece) or move away from it (release the workpiece).

The clamping force in power chucks is generated by a hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder that is located at the rear end of the spindle. Through the central hole of the spindle, the cylinder is connected by a rod to the chuck mechanism, which moves the cams, which clamp the installed workpiece into the chuck.

During processing, compressed air or liquid enters the rotating cylinder using a special device called a coupling. As a rule, the movement of the cams from a mechanized drive reaches 5-10 millimeters, so the design of the lathe chuck in any case allows you to quickly readjust the product when switching from machining between batches of workpieces.

To increase the accuracy of fastening the workpiece during finishing, it is customary to use non-hardened overhead cams, which are bored on the machine for certain dimensions of the workpiece mounting bases. For this purpose, the main cams clamp a short mandrel to select gaps in all mates, and then the working surfaces of the applied cam are bored to the largest diameter of the base surface of the part.

The design of the non-hardened cams and their attachment using the dovetail mating allows the overhead cams to be installed with an accuracy of 0.02 millimeters and to avoid further boring.
For quick changeover between standard sizes of the workpiece, universal non-hardened cams are required, this is achieved by turning to a certain position the round or hexagonal heads of the top cams, which are fixed on the main cams and bored to the required diameter. Large diameter workpieces are clamped in such a chuck with reverse jaw stages.

When it becomes necessary to process two similar surfaces, it is customary to use non-hardened cams, the error in fixing the workpieces in which can be reduced to 0.03-0.05 millimeters. Shaft-type workpieces that have a large length can be installed in a lathe chuck, which has a rear center clamping.

DIY lathe chuck

You got acquainted with the device and the main types of lathe chucks, and now you are presented with a variant of a homemade lathe chuck for a woodworking machine. The main working part of the chuck is an elastic sleeve that has a diameter of 6 millimeters. It is necessary to use two types of bushings - polyurethane and rubber, for which you can take the trimmings of the sealing harnesses.

The union nut must be made of brass or bronze. Steel can be used for this purpose, but bronze nuts have less friction. Piglet can be made from any material, you can even take duralumin. Turn the body out of steel. An internal hole or thread must be present in its shank - this depends on the device of the shaft shank of the apparatus on which the chuck is to be installed.

The rubber bush and body are the most critical parts in the chuck. It depends on how accurately they are made, whether the drill, clamped in the chuck, will "beat". To reduce the likelihood of drill "runout", make both parts in a specific sequence. Grind the chuck body on the machine in one set. Such a technique will allow ensuring, with a certain accuracy, the alignment of the central hole and the shank under the sleeve.

The chuck body will remain in the lathe spindle after machining. Insert the blank of the elastic sleeve inside the chuck and slightly squeeze it through the notch with the union nut. Insert a 1 mm drill into the tailstock of the machine and drill out the clamped sleeve. By this method, it is advisable to make a few bushings in stock.

If you are not able to lock the shaft of the drilling device when clamping the drill, you need to make flats for a wrench on the body of a homemade chuck for a lathe so that you can tighten the union nut tightly. In the lathe chuck, you can clamp drills that have a diameter of 0.8 to 1.2 millimeters. For drills with a different diameter, the holes in the nut and sleeve must be made different.

The main difference of this chuck lies in the fact that the elastic sleeve will clamp the entire drill shank, and in order to install a standard drill in the Verbovoy chuck, it is recommended to cut its shank. Make a hole for the elastic sleeve not in the nut, but in the chuck body, it should be as close as possible to the clamping device of the machine spindle. This significantly increases the accuracy of the drill centering during installation.

Now you know what lathe chucks are for and what function they perform when working on a lathe. In addition, it is not at all difficult to make a lathe chuck with your own hands. To do this, you must first of all decide on the environment for using the product and strictly follow our instructions.

All photos from the article

There are many versions of lathes with which you can. They can be very tiny, in which a conventional electric drill is used as a motor, and quite powerful with large power plants and equipment elements.

In our case, we will use materials, the main ones of which can be found in the garage or basement, and the missing ones can be easily purchased at the construction market or in a store.

In the photo - wood lathe 3 in 1