Sticky drops appeared on the rose. How to protect indoor hibiscus from pests and diseases
Aphid is a sucking insect from the order of Hemiptera green, brown, black, 2 mm. Forms colonies mainly on the tops of the shoots. There are colonies of wingless and winged individuals. When the plant is located outdoors (on the ground) in the summer, ants are often indicators of damage, which feed on the sweet secretion of aphids, droplets of sticky honeydew are also observed on the leaves.
Measures to combat aphids. Single or double treatment with Actara (spraying at a concentration of 4 g / 5 l and watering at a concentration of 1 g / 10 l), Akarin, Agravertin or Iskra-bio (spraying 5-8 ml / l), or another insecticide according to the instructions. During processing, insects may not die immediately, but after a few hours. All plants in the house should be treated, as aphids move easily.
Weevils.
Weevils are shiny small beetles, the body shape is elongated to rounded. Distinctive feature- the presence of a rostrum (an elongated part of the head). They feed on leaves, flowers, roots, sometimes being inside plant tissues. Often, adult insects feed on the aerial parts of plants, their larvae feed on roots. On indoor plants, the presence of weevil can be identified by round or semicircular holes in the leaves. You can not see the weevil right away, because it is nocturnal. The most effective will be systemic preparations of intestinal action Measures to combat the weevil. Manual assembly adult insects, spraying with Aktara (4 g / 5 l), spilling the soil with Aktara (1 g / 10 l), 4-fold treatment every 7-10 days.
The spider mite belongs to arachnid arthropods; it feeds on cell sap through leaf bites. It is a common pest of indoor plants. Signs of damage: on the underside of the leaf (sometimes on the top) there are small, about 0.5 mm, light grains (as if sprinkled with flour), with a massive lesion, a cobweb is visible. The leaf at the bite is discolored, covered with small yellow spots. Subsequently, with a strong defeat, the leaf falls off. The mite easily spreads through the air, is present always and everywhere, but affects only weakened plants. Strong plants that are kept in optimal conditions are able to resist the mite. Risk factors include too dry air, overheating of a plant or a clod of earth in the sun, drying out of the soil, dehydration (sometimes roots rot and die due to excessive watering), improper feeding, often an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.
Methods of dealing with spider mite. In order to prevent the plant, it is useful to spray it often with cold (namely cold) water, especially the underside of the leaf. For emergency assistance, it is necessary to wash the plant in the shower and treat with acaricides. V room conditions it is better to use Vertimek, Fitoverm. However, these preparations do not act on all stages of the tick - at least three treatments are required at + 200C after 10 days, or at + 300C after 3-4 days. Treatment with Akarin, Agravertin, Neoron will also help (4-fold treatments with an interval of 7-10 days). However, if the rules for caring for the plant are not followed, chemical treatments will only help for a while. To completely get rid of the tick, it is necessary to provide the plant with optimal conditions. Then strong cell walls are formed, which the tick is not able to damage. Prophylactic irradiation of medical equipment is effective. ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes weekly (to prevent the development of a new generation of individuals from eggs, which occurs exactly within 7 days). Methods of dealing with gall nematodes. It is necessary to try to remove badly damaged areas of the roots. Thermally treat the root system and soil by immersion in a large volume of water with a temperature of +500C. From chemicals Fitoverm or Agravertin are recommended when dry powder is introduced into the soil, but in this form, preparations in retail missing. Ecogel proved to be effective against nematodes, which was initially considered only as an anti-stress drug. Chitosan, which is part of the Ecogel, strengthens the cell walls so much that the nutrition and spread of the nematode in the tissues of the plant becomes impossible. It should be borne in mind that in some plants the presence of nodules on the roots is the norm, they should not be confused with galls. In members of the legume family, nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in such nodules. The water-oil emulsion is based on the effect of oil blocking the spiracles of insects. To give greater covering power, the oil is mixed with soap solutions. A glass of water is taken a little dishwashing detergent or soap and 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of machine (can be sunflower) oil, all this is shaken until an emulsion is formed and applied with a cotton swab or brush to all surfaces of the plant, while it is imperative to protect the soil from emulsion drops. The plant is left treated for several hours, then thoroughly washed in the shower. The tolerance of the leaves to such exposure should be checked.
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Hibiscus: care
Who doesn't want to have a flowering tree in their house? Especially if, in terms of whimsicality, it is inferior to many of its brethren! Chinese hibiscus is called a rose for a reason, the flowers of some species really resemble a blossoming rose bud. How to provide the conditions in which the plant will bloom?
Family: Malvaceae. Flowering: regularly. Cultivation: simple.
Hibiscus - Chinese rose (species, photos)
The first information about the plant refers to Ancient Greece. By the way, the Mediterranean climate is a favorable environment for Chinese rose! Its habitat covers the countries of the tropical and subtropical climate. For example, on the streets of Vietnam or Thailand, the rose feels great! The flower belongs to the mallow family, and its genus includes not only shrubs, but trees and even herbs, in total there are up to 500 different species.
In places of original growth, local aboriginal women wove its flowers into their hair, perhaps that is why the plant was called the “flower of beautiful women”! Initially, Chinese hibiscus was a tree up to 5 meters high, but for indoor cultivation, breeders bred more miniature varieties. And, although the rose allows you to admire its flowers for only one day, the flowering period can last for months! And terry flowers will delight you for up to three days.
Do you know?
In Malaysia, the flower received the title of national. Its five-petal variety is a symbol of the five commandments of Islam!
By the way, the view is not limited to the Chinese representative. Syrian hibiscus, native to Asia Minor, is a shrub suitable for outdoor cultivation. However, only for the southern strip of Russia. Indeed, in the conditions of a short summer, he simply does not have time to bloom! Its flowers are often confused with mallow.
There is another species that is sometimes called a weed, this is the ternary hibiscus. A flower up to 80 cm high has chosen the African continent, and grows by itself in pastures and wastelands. Perhaps that's why he got such an offensive nickname!
hibiscus syriacus and trifoliate
Hibiscus dissected-petal - this beautiful view received the name "princess earrings". It is shaped like a bell with curved petals reminiscent of the wings of an exotic bird! It comes from Brazil, grows in the coastal strip, or tropical forests, suitable for home floriculture.
hibiscus dissected
Do you know?
The plant is edible! The flowers are used in tea, the leaves are added to salads, the seeds are used for confectionery purposes, and the ripened fruits are highly valued for making jams, compotes and even soups.
By the way, the famous hibiscus tea has nothing to do with the usual indoor rosan! The raw materials for it are the cups of Sudanese hibiscus flowers, which increase in size after flowering. Unlike its relatives, this species is distributed mainly in the Arab countries, especially in Egypt and Sudan due to climatic preferences.
sudanese rose
Care rules
At home, hibiscus is not picky. Sometimes it's amazing to watch flowering plants in completely unsuitable conditions! And yet, if you want to achieve a beautiful crown and long flowering you need to put in some effort! Hibiscus care and cultivation.
Temperature and lighting
The only whim of a flower is that it needs light! In summer it should be diffused sunlight, with shading from direct rays. In winter, when the sun is scarce, it is necessary to provide it with artificial lighting in order to extend daylight hours to 10-12 hours. How to create backlight for flowers?
Hibiscus Chinese is able to bloom even in winter, if the room is warm and light. Feel free to take it out in the summer! The flower is not afraid of temperature changes. But when it drops to 12 degrees, it is advisable to return it to the room, in such conditions the roots stop absorbing moisture.
Watering and humidity
In summer, wide leaves actively evaporate moisture, the higher the temperature, the more active watering should be. However, don't overdo it! It is better to water it less often, but more abundantly than to supply water often and in small doses!
In addition, the flower itself signals the need for watering by lowering the leaves. It is preferable to water in the morning, during the day the roots actively consume water. With a decrease in temperature, watering is reduced. 8 questions about watering indoor plants.
Be sure to spray the chinese rose, she needs wet air regardless of the season! Sometimes give the plant a warm shower, after covering the pot with a bag. Hibiscus, the care of which is not difficult even for a beginner grower, is a very grateful plant. If the minimum conditions are met, it will definitely bloom! No wonder it is called the “flower of love”. During abundant flowering it is desirable to minimize spraying. After all, moisture that gets on the petals of flowers accelerates the process of their withering.
Fertilizers and top dressings
Experienced flower growers have noticed that an excess of phosphorus is not in the best way affects the quality of flowering! Conventional fertilizers for flowering crops contain minerals in next proportion≈15-21-25 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). A more successful dosage would be ≈ 10-4-12 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Therefore, carefully study the composition of the fertilizer! How to choose mineral fertilizer.
To prevent chlorosis, Chinese hibiscus can sometimes be fed with magnesium on a leaf (leaf method). The plant responds well to organic fertilizers- mullein and ash. Fertilizing a rose is especially important in spring-summer period, during flowering and the growth of new leaves. By the way, before you "feed" the roots with fertilizer, you must first moisten them with water for irrigation! How to use organic for flowers.
Will be useful foliar top dressing- spraying with stimulating preparations, organic or mineral fertilizers in a reduced concentration (10 times lower than with root dressings). In winter, if the leaves continue to grow, you can fertilize the rosan once a month. With a pronounced dormant period, fertilizers are not used!
Hibiscus pruning!
Hibiscus care involves regular pruning, it is needed to renew the crown and is a guarantee of flowering. If your pet already blooms regularly, and also has a crown desired shape He doesn't need a haircut. Although they say that this flower can be cut all year round, this is not true! In conditions of short daylight hours, it will be difficult for him to grow new leaves, and the old ones will turn yellow. Therefore, it is more reliable to cut the crown in the second half of March-April, when the sun is already active. Then it is guaranteed to bloom in June-July. Do not be afraid of "cardinal haircuts", new leaves will grow quickly!
It is better to prune three days after watering. Keep in mind that the location of the leaf gives the direction of the escape! So, leaving the last leaf growing down, you will get a new branch that will repeat its direction. As shown in the photo, when cutting, step back from the sheet by about 5 mm.
Reproduction and transplant
The cuttings obtained after pruning are easily rooted in water, after which they can be planted in the ground. Some varieties are successfully propagated by seeds. It is desirable to transplant Chinese hibiscus by transshipment, as its roots are fragile and thin! A transplant is required only if the rosette, in your opinion, is cramped in a pot. In a container that is too large, the tree gives new leaves, but does not bloom. How to choose a flower pot.
The soil for the plant must be nutritious and moisture-intensive, for this garden soil is mixed with humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. The flower must be provided good drainage and air access to the roots. Don't forget to loosen the ground sometimes! The first time after transplanting, it is recommended to water the rose from the pan to stimulate root growth. What kind of soil is right for your flower.
Growing problems?
Hibiscus, the care of which does not require much effort, can sometimes still be capricious! What are the most common ailments associated with?
- If the hibiscus turns yellow and the leaves fall ...
In winter, the cause of leaf fall may be a lack of sun. For deciduous plants this is the norm! To keep up the strength room rose, you can carry out foliar feeding with a solution of magnesium sulfate. However, if there is massive yellowing, it is worth checking the rose for pests. For example, spider mites! Especially often it attacks weakened plants. Its presence is betrayed by a cobweb between the leaves, and sometimes the tick itself can be seen on the back of the leaf. In any case, bathe the rose in the shower more often as a preventive measure!
Another reason could be temperature fluctuations. In the cool, the roots stop drinking water, so the plant can be easily flooded. Be careful!
- If the hibiscus has faded leaves ...
In this case, the spider mite could “try”! But, perhaps, a plaque from water, or dust, simply accumulated on the leaves. Keep in mind that the older the leaf, the less bright its color becomes. Mostly young leaves are juicy! Shaping pruning, enough light and periodic warm showers can save the situation.
- If the hibiscus has deformed leaves ...
This phenomenon is often observed after transplantation if there has been damage to the roots! The rose will quickly recover if it is provided with good lighting, regular watering and top dressing, including foliar. It is worth noting that a slight deformation of the leaves, namely corrugation, is a natural feature of the Chinese hibiscus!
Also, the reason may be a sharp change in conditions of detention: cooling, watering or spraying with cool water, excess fertilizer. Delicate leaves noticeably react to any changes, especially with regards to the temperature regime. Even a short-term drop in temperature could cause deformation of young foliage! If conditions stabilize, new leaves should grow evenly.
- If the tips of the leaves of the hibiscus dry ...
Usually this situation occurs in winter, when the apartment is dry from batteries and there is not enough light. Winter is a hard time for a flower! If possible, you need to provide it with artificial lighting, spray it often, wash it in the shower and water it with great care. During this period, do not rush to fertilize hibiscus, it is better to start top dressing in the spring. If the room is cool, or the pot is on a cool windowsill, the roots may stop absorbing water altogether. In this case, watering is reduced to a minimum so as not to flood the plant.
This plant needs at least 6 hours of sunlight to flower! Put it closer to the window, in the summer you can safely take it out to the balcony or veranda. Fresh air does wonders for the plant! But, do not forget to shade the tree from direct midday rays.
- If the hibiscus is dropping buds...
According to one version, he may not have enough light, or food. An overabundance of minerals in the soil is also possible! Think about whether you have overfed your flower? Feeding should be carried out no more than once every 10 days, strictly observing the dosage. Also, the reason could be a change in location, or temperature. In general, when the rose has bloomed, it is better not to change the conditions of detention.
- Sticky sap on hibiscus leaves...
droplets of sticky substance inside leaf is normal for a Chinese rose! It may be due to temperature changes, or overheating. And yet, it is not superfluous to check the plant for pests (aphids, scale insects).
It's important to know:
If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments or on the forum. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.
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Hibiscus indoor. Care
The very first indoor “flower” that I grew with my own hands was the Chinese hibiscus, or, as we called this plant, the Chinese rose. I remember very well the day he appeared in our house. I am 15 years old. In the lobby of the polyclinic, a huge and obviously once beautiful bush. Constantly looking around, I 
I break off a branch and hide it in my bag.
Over the years, the Chinese rose has experienced many events with me. And just recently I celebrated her 25th birthday.
Chinese hibiscus, or Chinese rose (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a plant of the Malvaceae family. The birthplace of this incredibly beautiful flowering shrub Southeast Asia and Polynesia. In nature, it reaches a height of 4 m or more. Thanks to the work of breeders, today there are about 250 varieties of Chinese roses of a wide variety of colors, and 25 years ago we knew only a red-flowered terry form.
Those who decide to have a hibiscus in their home should remember that this is a sprawling, fast-growing shrub that will need a large pot, and, therefore, a fairly spacious place in the house. True, now compact slow-growing varieties have appeared on sale.
Hibiscus is easy to grow from non-lignified green shoots remaining after annual spring pruning. Cuttings with 2-3 leaves are cut from them. Large leaf blades are shortened by half to reduce moisture evaporation. Sometimes, in the process of rooting, the leaves on the cutting fall off, but the cutting itself remains alive. As soon as roots develop on it, new leaves grow from sleeping buds.
Hibiscus can be rooted in water. When small white growths (callus) appear on the lower end of the cutting, it is planted in a small pot in an earthen mixture, watered abundantly and placed in a greenhouse. It can be replaced by a plastic bag or transparent plastic bottle necessarily with ventilation holes. With the advent of young leaves, the plant can be removed from the greenhouse and put on permanent place.
Rooted cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Already 4-month-old young shoots "throw out" bud after bud from the apical point of growth. It's funny to see how tiny buds appear on a thin stem. They gradually increase, and within a few days a huge double flower blooms, up to 10 cm in diameter!
It lasts exactly a day, and then falls off, giving way to the next one. Continuous flowering occurs until late autumn, and on the southern windows - all year round.
As soon as the hibiscus begins to prepare for flowering, it should be given more attention. The fact is that buds and flowers are a great delicacy for peach aphids. If you find uninvited guests, then immediately treat the plant with the Fitoverm insecticide or any other drug that kills the pest. If there are too many aphids, it is better to remove the emerging buds until the plant is completely healed.
Hibiscus needs to be shaped. In the spring, in mid-March-April, long shoots are shortened to stimulate branching. If the plant has only one shoot, it is cut off at an arbitrarily chosen height. If a bush has formed, then you need to follow certain pruning rules recommended by experts. Each shoot is cut 1/3 above the leaf facing outward. I did a little experiment. Part of the shoots was cut according to the recommendation, and part contrary to it, that is, above the inner bud. Those branches that were cut according to the rules gave several side shoots. And the “wrong” ones grew only one young shoot from the upper bud.
In the spring, simultaneously with pruning, the hibiscus is transplanted or transferred to a fresh substrate; young plants annually, adults, start 7-10 years old - as needed. For large-sized tub specimens, it should be changed annually upper layer earth.
Hibiscus are big "gluttons", so I add a little rotted mullein to a fresh substrate.
Previously, when I was just starting to do indoor floriculture, I collected rotted leaves in the park and mixed it into the earthen mixture during transplantation. Feed hibiscus every 2 weeks with fertilizer for flowering crops.
In the summer it is better to take them out into the open air. Watering with soft rainwater, an abundance of sunlight, fresh air harden the plant before a long and difficult winter. The minimum temperature that Chinese hibiscus can withstand is plus 10-12″C. A further decrease in temperature can lead to hypothermia of the root system and death of the plant.
In the autumn-winter period, the flowering of hibiscus weakens or stops altogether. Half-opened buds fall off, and new ones do not form. There is a period of relative calm. At this time, the plant is fertilized no more than once a month. With the inclusion of central heating batteries, another danger appears - the invasion of the spider mite. This pest should also be disposed of with the help of appropriate preparations. A few years ago my hibiscus got sick. What happened, I still don't know. The leaves began to fly around, the shoots stopped growing, the growth points dried up. Wait for death. I didn’t become a plant, I took it out of the pot, examined the roots. They were knotted and very densely interlaced, I did not find anything else alarming. Slightly "stirring up" the root system, cut it off a little with scissors and shortened the shoots. I planted a bush in another pot, completely changing the substrate. Now all that was left was to wait. For about a year, the hibiscus showed no signs of life. He didn't die, but he didn't grow either. No fertilizers and stimulants helped. Quite desperate, I began to water him with urea diluted in water. Slowly, very slowly, the plant began to come to life. For 8 months I tried to help him, and when my hands dropped, my hibiscus suddenly “woke up”: young leaves began to appear, shoots grew. Every day he became more and more like himself. He met his 25th anniversary, covered with new shiny dense foliage.
Chinese hibiscus is propagated not only by cuttings, but also by seeds. However, of all the varietal seeds found on sale, I managed to grow only hibiscus ‘Tsar Bell’. All 5 seeds sprouted together after 3 days, and after 4 months the seedlings reached 50-70 cm in height and began to prepare for flowering. A huge (15 cm in diameter!) flower opened on one of them. Surprising vitality was shown by seedlings, for lack of space left in small pots. Sometimes the substrate in them completely dried up, the leaves hung down and it seemed that the plants could not be saved. But as soon as the pots were immersed in the ox, the turgor was completely restored after a few hours. in the fall due to insufficient lighting seedlings began to lose leaves, then shoots began to die. When about 10 cm remained to the base of the stems, the dying off stopped. In the spring, the plants began to grow. After the earth warmed up, I planted all 5 seedlings in the ground. However, despite the fact that the inscription “Winter-hardy!” was emblazoned on the colorful seed bag, the plants felt uncomfortable in the open field, the growth of the shoots stopped. Until autumn, only 3 seedlings “reached out”, and not one survived the winter.
Thanks to communication with foreign breeders and the entry into our flower market of new, hitherto unknown varieties we now know much more about hibiscus than before. There are varieties whose flower size reaches 25 cm in diameter! Now no one will be surprised by the old variety with red double flowers, but he is dear to me, as an old and reliable friend.
On a note:
Varieties of gladioli - VARIETIES OF CHAMPIONS OF GLADIOLUS
Diseases of indoor plants with sticky leaves immediately give out their cause and pathogen.
Causes of sticky plaque
A sticky leaf on any plant means that organic secretions are deposited on its surface with big amount carbohydrates.
At healthy plant this is possible only if something that sticks to the outer covers of the leaf has got on the leaf blade from the outside. This happens rarely. And if all the leaves of a plant are suddenly covered with something sticky, these are signs of a pathology that develops so quickly that soon not only a few leaves and the whole plant, but also the nearest space around, are covered with a sticky mass. This indicates the presence of a constant process of violation of the integrity of the leaf blade.
Possible consequences
This phenomenon has causes and consequences. The reasons are simple - microorganisms are planted on the plant that damage the leaves. As a result, juice flows from the leaf wound all the time.
Reaching a certain number, the pest forms a sticky cover on the leaves. Since he drinks juice, his secretions are not only thin, but also sticky. As a result, the sheet is covered with a continuous layer of the mixture own juice with the secretions of the organisms that eat it.
Such a process may have the following consequences.
- 1. The plant loses water and nutrients.
- 2. Fungi, bacteria, viruses can settle on permanent damage, which can cause a new disease.
- 3. The sticky cover clogs the stomata, making it difficult to breathe and evaporate water.
- 4. Since the plant is not provided with enough oxygen and carbon dioxide, the formation of organic matter in the process of photosynthesis becomes unproductive. This leads to the loss of the leaf and the gradual withering of the entire plant.
- 5. Stomata closed with a sticky substance stop evaporating water. As a result, the movement of water from the root hairs to the leaves slows down. For this reason, the supply of minerals to the ground organs of the plant also slows down. This is the reason for the deficiency of minerals. The intensity of bio and photosynthesis decreases. As a result, the plant ceases to bloom and bear fruit, gradually dying.
Thus, a sticky coating on the leaves of a plant is a signal of trouble. Who is responsible for these troubles?
Organisms that damage the leaf blade
It is difficult to identify a pest that destroys a plant. These are mainly insects or mites, that is, multicellular organisms. However, they are so small that it is difficult to see them. In addition, only a specialist can determine the type.
Nevertheless, it is necessary to know the enemies of plants. Here is a sample list of them.
- 1. Spider mites are the most common houseplant pests. They belong to the arachnids. Their presence is usually detected by indirect signs. Leaf stickiness is the first sign. Then barely noticeable cobwebs appear. If the plant is in bloom, the web concentrates on the flowers. Chrysanthemums, citrus fruits, and roses suffer the most from spider mites.
- 2. Scale insects, or false scale insects, are small insects from the Hemiptera family. They got their name because they look like they are covered from above with a dense protective shell, similar to a shield. Compared to a tick, they are quite large - they can be seen with the naked eye. They lead a sedentary lifestyle. If you try to remove them from the plant, you can feel resistance. It creates a feeling of adhesion of the shield to the surface of the sheet. They usually concentrate near the veins or on a young shoot.
- 3. Aphids for houseplants are not as popular as the previous ones. The reason is simple - these insects are larger, so people notice them faster and take action. However, they are colored to match the color of their food supply, which reduces the likelihood of their early detection. Infection with these insects occurs quickly. This is due to their ability to fly. If previous pests migrate through the soil, then these can fly to new plants.
- 4. Mealybugs are representatives of the same family as scale insects. These worms are not worms at all. In size and lifestyle, they are more like aphids. A person who does not understand the biology of invertebrates usually does not see the difference between aphids and a mealybug. However, there are some indirect signs. The accumulation of these small white insects creates the effect white plaque, as if the plant was sprinkled with flour.
- 5. Whiteflies are small white butterflies. They usually concentrate on the underside of the leaf, since the cover is less solid there.
These butterflies lay their eggs where they feed. Translucent larvae emerge from the eggs, bite into the leaves, move along their surface, leaving a layer of sticky sweet coating. If the concentration of larvae is high, and the leaves are not processed, then the plaque turns from green to black. This is due to the fact that fungi begin to multiply in a sweet environment.
How to deal with adversity?
If you find white dots, brown shields, cobwebs, sticky plaque on the plant, then you can not look for the culprits, because the control measures are the same. They boil down to the following:
- Detected pests can be removed. Wash the plant with the solution laundry soap(72%). You can use special green soap.
In a soapy state, the plant can remain no longer than 24 hours. After that, the soap coating must be washed off, since the soap prevents gas exchange between the plant and the atmosphere.
Repeat the procedure after 3 days.
- In some cases, soap procedures do not help. Then you have to turn to special preparations. Fitoverm belongs to such means. According to the instructions, it is used to treat indoor plants if they are affected by aphids, mites and thrips.
Using Phytoferm is simple. It is necessary to dissolve the contents of the ampoule in water. Attention should be paid to the toxicity of the drug to humans, so the treatment should be carried out with all precautions and outside the living quarters, as there will be an unpleasant odor.
7 days after the first treatment, the entire procedure must be repeated. This is due to the fact that most pests live in the soil, and this drug does not damage them, so the next generation appears.
After about 30 days, you will understand whether Fitoverm helped or not. If not, then it's time to take more drastic action.
- Preparation "Doctor" (thiamethoxam) in the form of briquettes. Distinctive feature This means is the destruction of pests in the soil. To do this, briquettes are introduced into the soil. There they gradually dissolve, killing larvae and adults - aphids, scale insects, scale insects, thrips, whiteflies.
- The entire series of preparations "Commander" has universal properties. They can be sprayed with crops growing in the open field, in pots on the windowsill. These are water-soluble crystals that are effective against aphids, whiteflies, thrips. The concentration of the solution must be selected for specific conditions in accordance with the instructions.
- Some people put the pot with the affected flower in a plastic bag and spray dichlorvos inside, then the bag is tightly closed for several hours.
This method can give its results, but dichlorvos is dangerous for people and can burn the plant, it works for a short time, killing only active insects and mites. The larvae remaining in the soil do not die.
There are many means and methods of pest control. The main thing is prevention. Be careful with soil selection.
There are several diseases that affect different parts of the flower:
Differences from pest damage
Possible consequences
The consequences of diseases for the Chinese rose directly depend on which disease struck and at what stage the lesion. If the disease was detected on time, then the plant can still be saved by taking urgent measures.. The main consequences of the diseases remain:
- loss of decorativeness;
- growth retardation;
- death.
When is resuscitation possible and when not?
Resuscitation for a plant is an emergency measure that will save the flower from death. It makes sense to hold such events if the state of the rose is not running. Then stressful situation will allow him to activate the processes of growth and development. If the disease is running, then resuscitation is useless.
Instructions on what to do at home
If the Chinese rose dries up, then the first thing to do is to normalize its watering. From spring to autumn, the flower needs moisture. Use distilled water for irrigation room temperature.
The next reason for the drying of the plant are mites.. To combat them, you can try the following drugs:
These products are toxic, so be sure to open a window, wear gloves and a respirator before using them.
Processing looks like this:
- To begin with, carefully water the flower, and treat the stems and leaves with soapy water.
- Now you can proceed to spraying, and use several drugs in turn.
- Re-treatment is carried out after 7-10 days.
As for folk remedies, they are effective only at an early stage of infection. Popular recipes:
- Onion infusion. For 20 g of husk 1 liter of water. Infuse for 5 days, spray the bush with infusion, wipe the leaves and branches.
- Infusion of garlic. Pour 2 large and chopped heads of garlic, pour 1 liter of water and leave for 5 days. Before use, dilute the infusion with water in equal proportions and spray the bush.
Hibiscus withers
If the plant began to wither, then it can be very difficult to cure it. But you can try if you use the following recommendations:
- Remove all dried parts of the plant, lightly affecting its healthy fragments.
- Treat the rose with antifungal drugs: Fundazol, Topsin, Dezavid. You can use a folk remedy - a solution of Trichopolum (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).
- For additional stimulation of the rose, treat with such preparations: Epin, Zircon, Domotsvet.
IMPORTANT: If at the initial stage it was not possible to cure the hibiscus, and it still fades, then you will have to get rid of it.
Curling of azalea leaves occurs as a result of the activity of the whitefly. To combat it, drugs are used:
When working with drugs, use gloves and ventilate the room well!
leaves fall
- Shchitovka. Leaves are mechanically cleaned with a soap sponge. Next, process 0.155 Actellik solution (1-2 ml per 1 liter of water).
- Aphid. To combat it, spraying with Dirris, Fitoverm, Decis, Aktellik is used. If the lesion is severe, then repeat the treatment after 10 days.
turns yellow
To prevent the appearance of yellowness on the leaves or get rid of it, you will need to follow the following recommendations:
- Watering should be moderate, avoid standing water.
- No draft.
- Timely subcortex.
- No direct sunlight.
- Leaf processing by special means for prevention.
ADVICE: In case of damage of viral origin, it is pointless to carry out treatment, remove the diseased flower immediately so that the rest of the plants do not become infected.
Does not bloom
If the hibiscus does not bloom in any way, it needs to be stimulated:
- To stimulate flowering, it is necessary to cut off old branches in a timely manner.
- Replace old soil with new.
- Set the plant in a sunny location.
- Do not forget to apply fertilizer to stimulate new shoots and buds. But nitrogen-containing compounds to reduce.
Watch the video about the reasons for the lack of flowering of hibiscus and how to fix it:
If the Chinese rose is on the verge of death, then urgent resuscitation is necessary. It includes the following procedure:
At high humidity and good lighting, dormant buds will wake up and the root system will begin to develop. Zircon treatment should be carried out every day, as it restores turgor.
Prevention
To prevent the development of a recurrent disease, it is necessary to take the following measures prevention:
- Temperature indicators should not go beyond the norm - 18-22 degrees Celsius. Drying and waterlogging are unacceptable.
- Timely pest control. It is they who lead to deformation of the leaves and the development of diseases. For processing, use Peretrum, Aktofit.
- It is best to use mineral complex fertilizers to regularly apply nutrient compositions.
- The air in the room should be moderately humid, but not dry.
Care
- Temperature. Chinese rose is a heat-loving plant. In spring and summer, temperatures will be 25 degrees Celsius, and in winter - 15-20 degrees. If in winter the temperature is below 10 degrees, then the leaves will fall off. In the summer, put the flower on the balcony, protecting it from rain and wind.
- Lighting. Hibiscus is a photophilous culture. For him, diffused light is important. If direct sunlight hits the flower in summer, then this is fraught with the development of a burn. Grow the plant on east or west windows.
- Watering. In spring and summer, the Chinese rose needs abundant watering. Use settled and room temperature water. Avoid over-wetting. In winter, watering is moderate. Before the next irrigation, wait until the soil is completely dry. Be sure to provide good drainage.
- Air humidity. In the summer, hibiscus needs high humidity. It is useful for him to carry out frequent spraying. Only water should not fall on the flowers, otherwise they may fall off. In winter, less moisture is required. But carried there is central heating, then spraying is carried out every other day.
- top dressing. From spring to autumn, apply complex nutrient formulations intended for flowering houseplants. Do this once every 2 weeks. Starting in August, reduce nitrogen-containing top dressing.
- pruning. Prune China rose heavily every spring. This will allow the bush to acquire a compact form with a large number of buds. If the plant begins to stretch strongly, then cut it off during the growth period. Thanks to pruning, the flower can take the form of a shrub or tree.
Conclusion
Chinese rose, like other ornamental crops, is affected by certain diseases. The main task of the grower is to detect the problem in time, understand the cause of its development and proceed to effective treatment at home. Only quick and coordinated actions will help save both the flower itself and its decorative appearance.
sticky drops
Sometimes, hibiscus can secrete drops on its own and this is not a pathology, but the localization of these secretions should be at the junction of the petiole with the leaf.
In other cases, the appearance of a sticky coating indicates damage to the plant by pests: aphids or scale insects. And if aphids can be seen with the naked eye, then the scale insect betrays its presence only with sticky secretions.
To help the flower, you need to give him a shower. At the same time, the soil must be covered with a waterproof film so that washed-out pests do not get into it. Then the hibiscus must be dried and treated with an insecticidal preparation, according to the instructions.
Spots
The appearance of small, yellow, watery spots indicates that the hibiscus is affected by bacterial spotting. The shape of the spots is irregularly angular, and along their edge there is a light green or yellow border. This ailment is caused by bacteria and treatment should be carried out with the use of antifungal drugs.
Also manifestations of bacterial lesions can be so-called bacterial burns. The spots in these cases are quite extensive, shapeless, black. Treatment is also carried out with antifungal drugs; untimely assistance to hibiscus will lead to its death.
Leaf blades fell off
The cause of this symptom may be:
- Deficient, or, conversely, excessive watering.
- too high or low temperature air.
- Lack of lighting.
- drafts.
Improvement of hibiscus, if the disease has arisen due to the above reasons, is to adjust the conditions of detention.
Also hibiscus can shed its leaves due to damage by a spider mite, or due to excess content nutrients in the ground. In the first case, insecticide treatment will be required, in the second it is necessary to adjust the composition of the soil.
White bloom
The plant is affected by mealybug or powdery mildew:
- In the first case, it is a pest.
- In the second - a fungal disease.
The waste products of the mealybug visually look like cotton balls on the leaves and stems, treatment consists in washing the plant and treating it with insecticidal preparations.
For the treatment of powdery mildew, which creates a visual effect of dusting the leaves with flour, antifungal drugs are used.
Black dots
A disease with such a symptom is called dropsy. Black dots appear from a combination of waterlogging and cold. This defect can be corrected by restoring conditions acceptable for hibiscus.
Leaf blades are drooping
If the plant has dropped leaves, it either lacks moisture, or it is very waterlogged. Sometimes such a symptom can occur at a high temperature. Adjusting the conditions of detention will help relieve hibiscus from malaise.
Chlorosis
This is a disease in which the process of chlorophyll formation is disrupted in a plant and the activity of photosynthesis decreases. The main symptoms of the disease are yellowing and leaf fall.
Chlorosis can be of two types - infectious and non-infectious. The non-infectious form is the most common. The reason for the occurrence lies in the wrong composition of the soil - excess or not enough nitrogen, potassium, iron and magnesium.
The symptoms of the disease are as follows:
- with a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow and fall off;
- potassium deficiency causes thinning of branches, lack of flowering or pale color of flowers;
- lack of magnesium or nitrogen manifests itself in the form of yellow or white spots on the leaves.
The causative agents of infectious chlorosis are fungal microorganisms and viruses. Symptoms accompanying the disease:
- yellowing and falling of leaves;
- general weakness of the plant;
- lack of flowering.
What is the treatment for chlorosis? To treat non-infectious chlorosis, it is necessary to bring the composition of the soil to an optimal state for hibiscus.
Infectious chlorosis is best prevented by avoiding contact of the flower with diseased plants.
As for treatment, the best solution would be to transplant a pre-washed plant into a new, disinfected container with fresh soil. Also specific preparations intended for the treatment of infections will be effective.
Twisting
It is observed when hibiscus is affected by fungi of the genus Verticillus, or Fusarium. After the leaves curl, they die off and only the tip remains on the plant. After the defeat of all leaves, a rapid drying of the trunk and death of the flower follows. For treatment it is necessary to use antifungal drugs.
Timely noticed indisposition of a pet - hibiscus, will help prevent critical conditions and prevent bitter disappointment from the death of a flower.
One of the reasons why the houseplant leaves begin to curl - these are pests. For example, a flower affected by a whitefly (whiteflies are one of the most dangerous pests) has yellow leaves covered with sticky drops over their entire surface. In addition to the whitefly, other hibiscus pests threaten the plant: aphids, gall midges and spider mites.
spider mite
Aphids are another misfortune familiar to people who are fond of floriculture. Aphids are usually attracted to the fleshy shoots of the plant, so they attack it quickly and drink juices from it. One of characteristic features The appearance of this pest is that the plant twists the leaves, and subsequently sticky droplets quickly appear on the leaves.
To combat aphids, the following methods are used: first they should be removed from the leaf and stem with a cotton pad, and then treated with soapy water or special preparations (Aktara, Iskra).
Gallica
Another reason why the leaf plate twists and falls off is the gall midge, which poses a threat to both the leaves and the root system of the plant. Usually, pest eggs can be found in the buds of a plant - it is there that worms hatch from the eggs, gnaw on the buds, and then fall into the soil, closer to the roots of the plant.
Diseases and their causes
In addition to the invasion of insects, your flowers can also be subject to diseases. Hibiscus diseases, if left to chance, can cause the death of the plant. Rotten roots, leaves starting to dry out are all clear signs that the hibiscus needs help. It's not about various types rot when the plant has rotted or its roots have dried up, but about diseases that affect the condition of the foliage of the flower. So, let's look at the main leaf diseases and their treatment.
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is nothing more than the loss of leaves of their color. The leaves affected by the disease rapidly lose color and become very pale, even slightly yellowish. The disease is most dangerous because the leaves may not only lose their color, but over time they may begin to fall off. Thus, if you do not take any measures, soon your hibiscus may remain completely naked.
sunburn
Another misfortune that poses a significant danger, but in essence is not a disease, is sunburn. Everything is simple here: sunburn occurs as a result of violation of conditions of detention. Hibiscus, like the vast majority of plants, does not tolerate direct sunlight. Therefore, if you forget about it and place him in a place where he will be under their direct influence, be prepared to accept the consequences in the form sunburn.
Also, this misfortune may appear if you kept your plant in the shade for a long time, and then abruptly put it in a bright place. In this case, it is not even necessary that direct sunlight falls on it - a simple change of scenery will be enough. In addition, sunburn can occur even if the leaf seems to stick to the glass.
Sunburn looks like a small reddish or yellowish dry spot on the surface of the leaf plate. Measures to save hibiscus are best taken immediately, because the longer you delay, the more rehabilitation the flower will need later.
Treatment and prevention
In order to fix the problems, you will need to cure the plant, saving it either from the invasion of insects or from diseases. If in the case of insects it will be enough to apply any effective insecticide or acaricide (and for those who like to use folk remedies- soap solution), then with diseases you need to act a little differently.
With chlorosis, it is necessary to treat the hibiscus with iron chelate and apply the necessary fertilizers (since the disease itself is often due to a lack of nutrients). In addition to improving the conditions of detention, you will not help the plant in any way.
In order to eliminate the effects of a sunburn, you need to remove all damaged hibiscus leaves, as well as optimize the conditions of detention - for example, put in a darker place.
