Garden rhododendron: planting and caring for shrubs in the open field. Planting rhododendrons in spring and autumn: care and cultivation in the open field Rhododendron planting and care

AT spring garden it is difficult to find bushes that bloom more spectacularly than rhododendrons. While these are very popular and beloved plants, they are not the easiest to grow.

Find out how rhododendrons are planted and cared for in the open field, what are their requirements for soil, watering, and fertilizers.

Description of the plant, species and varieties

Rhododendrons are a genus of plants from the heather family (Ercicaceae). It includes several hundred species and thousands of varieties and hybrids, which can be divided into 2 groups:

  • evergreen - with leathery leaves, called rhododendrons;
  • deciduous - with soft, slightly pubescent leaves falling in winter, called azaleas.

Beautiful, large, multi-colored flowers of rhododendrons appear on stems from early spring, bloom until early summer and resemble magnificent bouquets of roses. Therefore, the plant got its name - Rhododendron (Rhododendron), where rhon is a rose, dendron is a tree. In Greek, the name of the plant means pink tree.

Rhododendron garden can be grown in almost any garden, choosing the size of the shrub to the landscape:

  • impressive shrubs reaching a height of 4-5 meters;
  • small shrubs, not exceeding 50 cm in height.




Due to the great diversity, rhododendrons are divided into several groups, the most popular of which is shrubby, classified as large flowering rhododendrons. Plants are characterized by large size, huge, numerous, colorful inflorescences. Flowers of these varieties can be found in many color combinations:

  • white,
  • shades of pink,
  • red,
  • purple,
  • orange,
  • yellow.




The following bushes deserve attention:

Russian name for rhododendron Latin name Photo
Yakushimansky Rhododendron yakushimanum
Giant R.maximum
Violet or Katevbinsky R.catawbiense
Pontic R. ponticum
large-leaved R. macrophyllum
short-fruited R. brachycarpum

When deciding to grow a "rose tree", it is worth remembering that close relatives also belong to this type:

  1. azaleas;
  2. Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron obtusum).

They are shorter, more compact, have smaller, softer, seasonal or semi-evergreen leaves, and are frost tolerant. Unlike rhododendrons, azaleas require a more sunny position.

Growing and caring for rhododendron

Landing place

The success of rhododendron cultivation in the garden largely depends on the choice of the correct position, which provides the plant with conditions close to natural.

Requirements regarding the site of the plant are quite high:

  1. The evergreen foliage makes the bushes sensitive to low temperatures and physiological drought.
  2. You need to choose a semi-shaded place, protected from the wind, with high humidity. You can achieve this by planting a rhododendron next to larger clusters of shrubs that provide a decorative backdrop.
  3. Tall trees will also be great company. Since the roots of the shrub grow superficially in the plane of the topsoil, it is better to plant the rhododendron near trees with roots growing deep into the ground, such as oak.
  4. Since the plant naturally occurs in regions with high humidity, favorable conditions help create a neighborhood. small ponds, streams.


Soil Requirements

Rhododendrons, like all heather plants, are demanding on the soil. It is necessary to provide soil with the following characteristics:

  1. high content organic matter;
  2. acidic pH (between 4.5 and 5.5) – although varieties are available that are more tolerant of elevated soil pH or grafted onto rootstock less vulnerable to abnormal pH, they will grow better in any soil.

Unfortunately, in most gardens, the soil is not suitable for acidity, so before planting the bushes, it is necessary to properly prepare them.

To increase the acidity of the soil, you need to prepare the substrate before planting:

  1. dig a hole 1-1.5 meters wide, 1 meter deep;
  2. fill the pit with a mixture of acid peat, leaf soil and compost pine bark in proportions of 2: 1: 0.5.

If it is not possible to prepare your own substrate for planting rhododendrons, you can fill the hole with ready-made mixture for heather plants, available at every garden center. A bush is planted in this prepared substrate, watered heavily and the hole is filled with the rest of the soil.

Mycorrhiza for rhododendron

When planting a plant, it is worth noting that maintaining a sufficiently acidic soil can cause some difficulties. Therefore, it is worth using the phenomenon of mycorrhiza.

Mycorrhiza is a mutually beneficial coexistence of plants and specific symbiotic fungi in direct contact with the roots of the plant. Mycorrhiza in the garden can be introduced with special mycorrhizal additives in the substrate for heather plants.

In the case of acidophilic plants, including the rhododendron flower, mycorrhiza produces sensational results. It is enough to prepare suitable additives in the substrate for heather, rhododendron, magnolia or blueberry. Soil can be acidified traditional way by mixing with peat. But acidification of the soil, done with peat, is short-lived.

Meanwhile, thanks to the use of a mycorrhizal additive, the effect lasts for many years, and rhododendrons will be beautiful even with unfavorable soil pH.


Fertilizer

Healthy shrub development requires proper fertilization. They begin to fertilize in April, finish in mid-July. You can use multicomponent mineral fertilizers or special balanced fertilizer complexes for rhododendrons. Since the plants do not tolerate too much salinity of the soil, they cannot be fertilized "in reserve". Top dressing should be even, in small doses. Before using fertilizer, the litter is removed from under the bushes, and after application, they are laid out again.

Cheap fertilizers

Of the cheapest fertilizers for rhododendrons, the following should be recommended:

  1. ammonium sulfate - added to spring-summer period, it nitrogen fertilizer, acidifying the soil;
  2. potassium sulfate - suitable as autumn fertilizer, it also acidifies the soil, the drug is rich in potassium, which facilitates the preparation of plants for winter.

These are the cheapest solutions, but not always optimal. Often such dressings are not enough and a special fertilizer is required for rhododendrons with trace elements.

Signs of missing elements

Rhododendrons need a certain amount of macro- and microelements for proper development, their lack quickly manifests itself in the form of various problems visible on plants:

  • weak flowering;
  • leaf browning;
  • weak staining and discoloration of the leaves.

Signs of deficiency of certain elements

Therefore, for fertilizer it is worth choosing special formulations for rhododendrons, containing all the necessary macro- and microelements, selected in appropriate proportions.

If symptoms of nutrient deficiencies are observed on shrubs, soil pH should be measured. This can be done with any pH meter. Simple and inexpensive pH testers are available at garden stores.

Based on the measurement results, the following conclusions are drawn:

  • If the soil pH is more than 6, it is necessary to acidify the soil, because if the pH is too high, the rhododendrons cannot take up some of the nutrients from the soil.
  • If the pH is satisfactory, it is worth using an auxiliary fertilizer for rhododendrons, which, after dissolving in water, can be used for watering and foliar spraying. As a result, the fertilizer ingredients are transported very efficiently to the plant tissues, which quickly gives visible results and improves growth.

Weed removal

Plant care includes regular removal of weeds until they have intertwined the roots of the shrub, otherwise their removal will injure the bush. Tsapka need to choose the smallest, because the roots of the shrub are located high to the surface of the soil. It is allowed to use a thin hoe.

pruning

Rhododendron requires proper pruning:


Removing faded inflorescences

After flowering, faded inflorescences should be cut off. You need to gently break them off with your hand, trying not to damage the formation of new kidneys. If the inflorescence is not removed, it will slow down growth. Due to the removal of inflorescences, the shrub does not waste energy on laying seeds, giving energy to the development of new flower and leaf buds. Next year the bush will bloom more abundantly.

Important! Inflorescences do not need to be cut, it is necessary to break off, imitating natural fall.


winter care

Evergreen shrub easily tolerates frost. On sunny or windy days, the leaves evaporate a lot of water that the plant cannot take from the frozen soil. Therefore, bushes should be protected with spruce branches or by creating protective fences around large bushes made of non-woven materials or film.

Also close the base at the foot of the bush to protect the root collar from frost. The best protection from frost is snow. If the winter is snowless and cold, the soil around the shrub is covered with:

  • leaves,
  • bark,
  • peat.


If the leaves curl during long periods of frost, the bushes take on an unhealthy look - this is a sign of a lack of water in the soil. In the next thaw, when the ground is thawed, you need to water the shrub abundantly. You can water preventively in late autumn, at the last moment before the onset of winter.

Leaving in the fall - how to protect rhododendrons for the winter?

Evergreens adorn gardens all year round, but you need to protect them for the winter, because unpleasant consequences can appear in the spring. It is important to know how to protect rhododendrons for the winter in order to get lush green leaves and a lot of beautiful flowers. If the winter is cold, last year's flower buds and growth buds may freeze and the bushes will not bloom.

Frost resistance of shrubs

The frost resistance of the shrub varies depending on the variety. The most frost-resistant varieties and varieties of rhododendron:

  • Azores azalea (Rhododendron catawbiense);
  • Finnish varieties - Haaga (Haaga) and Helsinki (Hellikki).

All other varieties need to be covered in winter in the first years of cultivation.

Deciduous rhododendrons are less sensitive to frost. Japanese rhododendrons (Rhododendron japonicum) need to be covered, they are sensitive to low temperatures.

The need to protect rhododendrons for the winter depends on the site conditions:

  • shrubs winter better in shady, warm, sheltered places;
  • shelter is necessary in sunny and windy places.

Hilling

Shrubs often dry out in winter. The first symptom is falling and curling main leaves. The reason for the phenomenon is the lack of available water on cold days. This condition is exacerbated by sunny weather, when plants lose water through evaporation and cannot replenish it, because the surface layers of the soil, together with the water contained in it, are frozen.


Photo. Curled leaves in winter mean the plant is not getting enough water.

To prevent drying, you need to protect the shrub from lack of water with abundant watering in late autumn, shortly before the onset of frost. At the foot of the bush create a mound of pine bark or peat. Pine bark, in addition to reducing the evaporation of water in the soil, also protects the root system of the rhododendron from freezing. The mound pile should be 20 cm high.

Protection with agrotextile

A popular, effective plant protection material is agrotextile, which allows water and air to pass through and protects shrubs from:

  • low temperatures;
  • cold wind.

It is necessary to wrap the bush 2-3 times and tie the cord to the base so that the material does not slip off during the winds, covering the plant from all sides.


Shelter branches

Another great way to protect rhododendrons for the winter is to cover them with coniferous branches. It is enough to cover the base of the bush with spruce branches. This protects the roots from low temperatures, and the snow that remains on the branches looks very natural.


Diseases

Caring for rhododendrons requires providing plants with proper development conditions. Incorrect position, lack of proper care can lead to the appearance dangerous diseases. Observation of rose trees will allow for early detection of disease symptoms.

Diseases, pests and improper care become common causes why the rhododendron does not bloom, the leaves turn yellow, brown.

Phytophthora

Signs of phytophthora damage:

  • First appear dark spots at the bottom of the stem - under the layer of bark, pathological changes occur, the tissue becomes brownish-red.
  • The rot progresses rapidly, the leaves become gray, twisted, the plant dies.

The disease mainly affects the roots, so the gardener does not notice major changes. The plant ceases to collect a sufficient amount of mineral salts and water.

The disease is caused by fungi of the Phytophthora species, which develop in humid, warm conditions at temperatures above +20 degrees Celsius. No effective drug that will save the rhododendron. The infected plant should be removed and burned; azaleas and rhododendrons should not be planted in its place for several years.



Exobasidium lingonberry

Plant deformation is caused by the fungus Exobasidium vaccinii.

Symptoms:

  • hard growths appear on the leaves;
  • the trunk is distorted;
  • bud growth is strongly inhibited.

This rhododendron disease is favored by:

  • temperatures above +10 degrees Celsius,
  • wet air.

Control measures:

  1. it is necessary to remove and burn the affected parts of the bush;
  2. the plant is treated with a suitable natural or chemical antifungal drug:
    • in spring, before the appearance of buds, Biosept Active is sprayed (concentration 0.1%);
    • when the temperature rises above 18 ° C, the bushes are treated with Topsin M 500 SC (concentration 0.1%), the treatment is carried out twice after 7-10 days;
    • in amateur cultivation, you can use the convenient and easy-to-use finished product Baymat Ultra 0.015 AE.



gray mold

  • Causes. The disease appears in conditions of high humidity, at a high temperature of +20 +30 degrees Celsius.
  • Prevention. To avoid disease, provide space around the plants, free air circulation.
  • Consequences. The mold causes the death of flower buds and flower deformation.
  • Control measures. To control the disease, it is necessary to spray an appropriate fungicide, such as Topsin 2-3 times every 7 days.


Physiological diseases

Deficiency or excess of certain minerals can lead to leaf discoloration:

  • when there is a nitrogen deficiency, the plant develops poorly, the leaves fall off;
  • with an excess of potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, the absorption of other nutrients from the soil is blocked, which affects the condition of the leaves.

If the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the bush is chlorosis. The causes of chlorosis are iron deficiency, or inappropriate acidity. It is necessary to maintain the acidic state of the soil.


Pests

During the growing season, pests attack the shrub, causing numerous damage - spots, holes in the leaves, discoloration, distortion of shoots and leaves. We will tell you how to deal with pests of rhododendrons, how to prevent their occurrence.

Pests that make holes in the leaves

Skosar single

Holes on the edges of the leaves, yellowing, drying of the bushes are signs of the appearance of Skosar single. Black adults, 8-11 mm long, damage rhododendron leaves in May-June. Beetles feed at night, hiding in the ground during the day. The females lay their eggs in the ground, which hatch into larvae that damage the roots. Beaver attacks other garden plants with fleshy leaves, like a rhododendron.

Control measures: after removing the damaged leaves, the plants are sprayed late in the evening with Fastac 100 EC insecticide (at a concentration of 0.02%). It is important to deal with the beetles before they lay their eggs, the control of the larvae is difficult, often ineffective.


pear bug

Signs of an attack by a pear bug (Stephanitis oberti):

  • yellow, mosaic spots on the upper side of the leaves;
  • dark wastes resembling resin appear under the leaves;
  • pest eggs overwinter on the underside of the leaves; yellowish-brown wingless larvae appear at the end.

Adults appear in July.

Bedbug-infected rhododendrons are sprayed with drugs of your choice:

  • Decis 2.5 EC (concentration 0.05%);
  • Sumi-alpha 050 EC (concentration 0.04%).

The treatment of the plant from the bug must be repeated.


Leaf yellowing pests

Some pests cause yellowing of the leaves, which can easily be mistaken for disease symptoms.

whitefly

Sticky, yellowing rhododendron leaves may indicate that the plants have been attacked by a whitefly. Around the shrubs in May-June, small white butterflies are visible - insects 1.2 mm long, bright yellow, with white wings. The females lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves, then greenish-yellow larvae hatch, producing large amounts of nectar on which fungi grow, forming a black coating on the leaves.

Control measures. After detection of the whitefly in the period from June to July (adults feed the larvae), the infected plants are treated 2 times with an interval of 14 days with Provado Plus AE insecticide.


Aphid

In spring, aphids form large colonies on the youngest, growing leaves. The insect sucks out plant juices, strongly inhibiting the growth of young shoots, distorting the leaves, polluting them with honeydew and numerous white slits.

Prevention measures: preventively, you can treat the plant with a solution of potassium soap with the aroma of garlic.


Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

Rhododendrons and azaleas growing in the garden can be propagated by layering. This is a relatively simple method, but requires patience. In spring or August, you need to dig a groove 15-20 cm deep near the bush, bend one of the branches into the groove and sprinkle it with earth. You can slightly damage the bark on the side of the shoot that will be underground. Layers usually take root after 2 years.

Scheme. plant propagation by layering


Reproduction by cuttings

Propagation of rhododendron from annual cuttings consists in obtaining new plants from leafy shoots and planting them in a mixture of peat and sand. The seedling is prepared in the second half of August or early September in a greenhouse at a temperature of 11 degrees Celsius. Plants will take root in 2-4 months.


How to plant a rhododendron?

Landing dates

The best time to plant rhododendrons is in the spring, although container-bought shrubs can be planted during the growing season.

Wet or dry place?

If the soil is light, permeable, there may be a shortage of water, you need to regularly water the bushes with soft water, preferably rain. Great idea- cover the ground around the bush with a layer of mulch. Ideal pine bark, acidifying the soil. Thanks to mulching, the soil dries out more slowly in summer and better tolerates cold in winter.

More dangerous than the lack of water, its excess occurring on heavy, impenetrable soils. Stagnant water leads to suffocation of the development of the roots of the plant. In this situation, it is worth taking a number of measures:

  1. plant shrubs on a gentle slope;
  2. make drainage;
  3. prepare a discount in the form of an embankment surrounded by tree trunks or stones.


Where to plant rhododendrons?

Well cared for and grown in the right conditions, rhododendrons make an unusual, colorful sight in the garden every spring. Shrubs can be planted in different ways:

  1. individually;
  2. make decorative groups with other plants;
  3. create unformed hedges.




Considering that rhododendron does not like pruning, at the beginning of cultivation, as much space should be allocated to the bushes as the variety requires, so that neighboring plants do not grow too much, do not shade each other.

Against the background of high varieties, it is worth planning to plant low plants, because over time the lower parts of the shrubs can become bare. This role is perfect for:

  • heather plants;
  • larches;
  • podbel ordinary;
  • gaulteria.

Rhododendrons can be combined with larger heather plants, such as broadleaf kalmia, pieris.

Landing - step by step



Planting a rhododendron requires shallow roots, too deep planting deprives the plant of nutrient assimilation. The root system of the shrub requires protection in winter with a layer of leaves, peat, and soil. If the winter is dry, the gardener's calendar should include watering the rhododendron.

Planting on different soils

Clay soil is very fertile and rich in ingredients needed for rhododendrons. However, if the root is planted deep into such soil, the plant will weaken. The problem is the poor permeability of clay soils to air and water. Rhododendron roots need fresh air, they cannot stand in water.

When placing a rhododendron on heavy soils, it is important to plant it correctly. When planting in heavy soils, a bush should be placed so that excess moisture can quickly drain. The problem does not occur on sandy soils.


To improve the drainage of the root system of a rhododendron seedling, it is not planted directly in clay, but in a small cavity. Below are 2 easy ways to plant a rhododendron.



The proposed landing methods can be used in other cases:

  • on alkaline soils;
  • on soils with very low acidity (if the pH is above 6.0);
  • under trees with aggressive roots.

After planting, rhododendrons need watering and observation.

How to transplant a rhododendron?

Sometimes plants grow densely, or other reasons arise and a rhododendron transplant is necessary.

The shrub can be transplanted at any time, except for frost. Plant transplantation can be carried out even during the flowering period, when the leaves are in active growth. Care must be taken, during the growing season the shrub is sensitive to any errors during transplantation.

Rhododendrons are best transplanted in early spring or autumn when there is no active leaf growth. Autumn is considered the best time.

The plant is large, from 70 cm to 2 meters in size it is more difficult to transplant. However, rhododendrons are easy to transplant because they have compact, shallow roots. A two-meter rhododendron can have a root diameter of 100 cm.

Stages of work

Attention! In a new place, we plant a bush 2-3 cm higher than in the old one. No way deeper!

Rhododendron flowers are considered in demand and interesting plants, which are the decoration of any garden. They belong to the genus of deciduous or semi-deciduous trees and shrubs. They belong to the Vereskov family. The literal translation of the name of this plant is rosewood, since the inflorescences really resemble unique and attractive roses in appearance.

Rhododendrons

Note! Rhododendron flowers can vary significantly in size and shape, as well as in color, which allows you to choose the best type of plant for each grower.

Description of rhododendron

In nature, rhododendrons grow in Japan and the Himalayas, and are also found in North America and South China. Often grow on the coast of different seas, rivers or oceans.

The features of garden rhododendrons include:

  • is a shrub equipped with leaves of different configurations and dimensions, and shrubs can be annuals, biennials or perennials;
  • there are sessile or petiolate, as well as serrate or ovate leaves;
  • rhododendron is incredibly popular due to the attractive appearance of the leaves, but flowers with a white, pink, purple or red tint are considered the most beautiful;
  • flowers are collected in brushes or shields, so they form rather large bouquets that amaze with their decorativeness and sophistication;
  • rhododendron flowers may have various form, which completely depends on the variety and type of plant, so they can be funnel-shaped or tubular, bell-shaped or wheel-shaped;
  • in many varieties, flowers have a unique pleasant aroma;
  • as a fruit, five-leaved boxes, which contain many seeds, act;
  • rhododendron seeds do not exceed 2 mm in length;
  • the root system of the plant is compact;
  • the roots are located on the surface of the earth, so transplanting a rhododendron is a simple and quick job.

Note! This flower is in demand in areas where beekeeping apiaries are arranged, since the rhododendron is an early spring honey plant.

Types and varieties of rhododendron

There are a huge number of different types of rhododendron, but the most popular are:

  • Dahurian rhododendron. It is found in nature near coniferous forests or on rocks. It is represented by an evergreen shrub, characterized by significant branching and medium height. Its height varies from 2 to 4 m. It has gray bark and long branches pointing upwards. Leaves possess small size, since they usually do not exceed 3 cm in length. Moreover, the plates are smooth on top and scaly on the bottom. Some leaves do stay on the shrub throughout the winter. The flowering of this rhododendron lasts about 3 weeks, and the inflorescences appear before the direct blooming of the leaves. The flowers are funnel-shaped and purple-pink. Their size in diameter reaches 4 cm. Flowering is often repeated in autumn time. The species is considered resistant to frost and propagated by cuttings.

Daurian rhododendron (Rhododendron dauricum)

  • Japanese rhododendron. This species grows naturally in Japan, and is considered one of the most attractive and interesting. It is represented by a branched shrub, the height of which is within 2 meters. It has bare shoots, and some may have silver bristles. The leaves of this rhododendron are green in color and oblong in shape. They have soft pubescence on both sides. In autumn, they acquire a reddish tint. The flowers are bell-shaped, and their size is about 8 cm in diameter. They are collected in racemose inflorescences of about 8 pieces. They have an orange or red tint.

Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

  • Hybrid. This includes many varieties obtained as a result of the combination different types rhododendron. The most popular varieties are: Blue Peter, Alfred and Rose Marie.

Rhododendron Blue Peter (Rhododendron Blue Peter)

Rhododendron Alfred (Rhododendron Alfred)

Rhododendron Rose Marie (Rhododendron Rose Marie)

Thus, before directly acquiring a certain type or variety of rhododendron, one should decide which variety is optimal for growing.

Rhododendron - planting

Russian climatic conditions are considered not very suitable for this plant, therefore only winter-hardy varieties are selected. The procedure for planting a plant is accompanied by certain features:

  • it is recommended to plant rhododendrons in the ground between the beginning of April and mid-May, and it is also allowed to carry out the process in the fall, namely in October;
  • it is not allowed to plant during the flowering period, so this process is usually carried out 2 weeks after it ends;
  • for planting rhododendron, it is desirable to choose shaded areas of the territory, therefore the northern side of the building is considered optimal;
  • loose soil with a high acidity index is prepared, and it is desirable to additionally add humus to it;
  • the soil must be well-drained;
  • if groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth, then it is recommended to plant rhododendron using a raised bed;
  • it is optimal to plant a plant next to oak or larch, as well as other trees whose roots go deep into the ground;
  • for planting a rhododendron, an optimal planting pit is created, the diameter of which is approximately 60 cm;
  • its depth should be approximately 40 cm;
  • a mixture of peat and loam is poured into it, since these components are considered optimal for creating a high-quality planting mixture;
  • this mixture is well rammed in a hole, after which a hole is made in it, the dimensions of which are completely equal to the root whoa of the prepared seedling;
  • it is recommended to prepare rhododendron seedlings well, for which they are lowered into the water before planting and kept there until air bubbles appear on the surface;
  • the roots of the plant descend into the prepared hole, after which the hole is covered with a substrate;
  • it is well rammed, since voids are not allowed;
  • if the soil was not moistened in advance, after planting the rhododendron is well watered with water, and it is important that the soil is moistened by about 20 cm in depth;
  • the trunk circle is mulched with peat, and oak leaves or moss are also used for this;
  • if a rhododendron seedling was purchased, equipped with big amount buds, then some of them are eliminated so that all the forces of the plant are directed to rooting;
  • to protect against the wind, it is recommended to use a support, and it leans towards the winds, and it is removed after the rhododendron bush is well rooted.

Note! With the correct planting process, the root neck of the seedling is at ground level.

Rhododendron - care

These plants are considered easy to care for, so light actions are performed for optimal growth:

  • it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the soil next to the rhododendron bushes, as the roots located near the surface of the earth can be easily damaged;
  • weeds are removed exclusively by hand, so you can not use a chopper or other auxiliary tools;
  • rhododendron is considered a specific plant that needs in large numbers moisture, not only in the soil, but also in the atmosphere, and this is especially true during the period when buds are formed or the flower begins to bloom;
  • it is recommended to water the flowers with exceptionally soft and settled water;
  • it is allowed to add a little peat to the water a day before its use;
  • the number of waterings of rhododendron is quite easy to determine after examining the condition of the leaves, since if they become dull, then it is necessary to water them;
  • it is necessary to water with a significant amount of water in order to shed the soil to a depth of about 30 cm, but it is not allowed to flood the roots heavily, as this can lead to lowering and folding of the leaves;
  • it is recommended to additionally spray rhododendron leaves in hot weather;
  • pruning of the plant is minimal, since the bushes themselves form an attractive and regular shape, but sometimes it is necessary to cut excessively tall bushes;
  • frozen shoots are removed by pruning, and this process must be performed in early spring;
  • slices are processed with garden pitch;
  • top dressing is certainly introduced for all rhododendrons, and this process must be carried out in early spring and in the middle of summer after the end of flowering;
  • it is desirable for this plant to use liquid fertilizers obtained using hornmeal and cow dung;
  • water the plant well before using top dressing;
  • rhododendrons are grown in acidic soil, so fertilizers suitable for such soil are selected.

Note! A specific feature of rhododendron is that in one year it strikes with abundant and attractive flowering, but the next year, fruiting and flowering worsen, and in order to prevent such consequences, it is recommended to remove wilted inflorescences after flowering, as this will lead to the fact that all the forces of the plant will be directed to the formation of new kidneys.

Thus, there are no particular difficulties with caring for rhododendrons, so if you carefully study all the rules, they will always delight you with abundant and beautiful flowering.

Rhododendron after flowering

In autumn, it is required to water the plants well in dry weather. If the rains are regular, then you can not water the rhododendrons at all. In November, the bushes are insulated next to the roots, for which a fairly dense layer of peat is used.

For optimal wintering, it is recommended to cover the plants with burlap, under which spruce or pine branches are laid. Such a shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts.

Diseases and pests of rhododendrons

Often on the plant there are pests:

  • spider mites, bedbugs and weevils, and they should be destroyed with diazinon;
  • flies and mealybugs, as well as snails, scale insects and other pests are removed by karbofos.

Fungal diseases in rhododendrons are common, which include cancer, rust, or leaf spot. Usually their appearance is associated with poor aeration of the roots. Used to eliminate diseases blue vitriol or other special preparations.

From chlorosis, rhododendrons turn yellow, therefore, when watering, it is recommended to use water with the addition of iron. Cancer-affected shoots are removed, and the entire plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid for prevention.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region

Many people are interested in the possibility of growing rhododendron in the Moscow region, as this plant is striking in its sophistication and attractiveness, so it can become an ornament to any site.

Note! Many people acquire a plant, plant it in the territory and observe the attenuation of the rhododendron, and this is due to improper care of it.

The main features of growing a flower in the Moscow region include:

  • only frost-resistant varieties are selected that can withstand a significant drop in temperature;
  • landing is carried out in the spring and in a place where there is partial shade;
  • the close proximity of the rhododendron to other flowers is not desirable, so a distance of about 1 m is left between them;
  • it is recommended to purchase a special soil designed for rhododendrons;
  • a hole for planting is made 2 times larger than the root system of an existing seedling;
  • if there is clay soil, then a drainage layer is made at the bottom of the landing pit;
  • it is not allowed to significantly deepen the root neck of the rhododendron;
  • the seedling is watered after planting;
  • balanced, regular and deep watering is certainly carried out;
  • if a lot of sunlight gets on the rhododendron, it is recommended to cover it with gauze or mesh;
  • circles are mulched next to the plant, but it is not allowed to loosen or dig up the flower.

Thus, the key to effective and optimal growth and development of rhododendron in the Moscow region is its competent planting and proper care.

Properties of rhododendron

Rhododendron has not only an attractive and unique appearance, but also some useful properties. These include:

  • present in some varieties ascorbic acid, and its content is maximum in the summer;
  • rhododendron is used to reduce pressure, get rid of edema and shortness of breath, and also helps to remove excess fluid from the body;
  • can be used as an antipyretic and analgesic;
  • used for sedation.

Note! Rhododendron is not a harmless plant, therefore it is forbidden to take it to pregnant and lactating women, as well as people with kidney disease.

Rhododendron flowers - photo

Rhododendron Mother's Day

Thus, rhododendron is a beautiful plant, for the growth and flowering of which it is necessary to provide optimal care. With a competent approach, a truly attractive and bright plant is obtained, which becomes a real decoration of the territory. It can be used to treat various diseases due to its many beneficial properties.

There is an opinion that caring for a rhododendron is quite complicated, and the shrub itself is capricious, so not everyone undertakes to grow it in a temperate cold climate. And only when you get to know this amazing and beautiful plant better, you understand that the matter is not in complexity, but in the specifics of culture. Rhododendron is not complicated - it's just not like everyone else.

Rhododendron bush in bloom - such a handsome man is worth the effort!

General requirements for the growing environment

It so happened that the rhododendron belongs to the elite of the flower-decorative kingdom. By purchasing such a valuable specimen, many strive to allocate the best place in the garden for it - in the sun, with fertile soil generously seasoned with humus. Stereotypes are triggered that have nothing to do with the real needs of culture, and this is the main mistake of inexperienced gardeners.

Under natural conditions, most species of rhododendrons grow in the undergrowth, that is, in a special microclimate under a tree canopy, where they are reliably protected from the scorching sun, piercing winds, and drafts. When planting rhododendrons in the garden, they need to create growing conditions, focusing on the principles of life in the natural environment.

  1. The light needs intense, but diffused. It is this lighting in the lower tiers of the forest, and it is this intensity of solar radiation that determines the structure of the leaves and the type of photosynthesis. Evergreen species are more sensitive to excess sun - on open space they get leaf scorch.
  2. Acidic and well-drained soil. Under natural conditions, most of the root system (and in rhododendrons it is superficial) is located in deciduous forest litter, consisting of rotted and fresh litter, humus, and podzolic soil. This environment is not very nutritious, has an acidic pH, but is saturated with air, which is important given the structure of the plant's roots.
  3. Symbiosis with fungi is the basis of plant nutrition. Rhododendron roots, like other representatives of the heather family, do not have root hairs. The role of the supplier of nutrients from the soil to the tissues is performed by the mycelium of mycorrhiza - the simplest fungi that live directly in the cells of the plant. So that the mycelium does not suffocate, a constant flow of air is needed, therefore dense clay soils are absolutely not suitable for heather crops.
  4. Increased soil and air moisture. Rhododendrons have a special relationship with moisture - they suffer from both a lack of water and an excess, especially in case of stagnation or flooding. The problem is solved by a properly selected structure of the planting substrate, which should not only be filled with moisture and retain it, but also have sufficient aeration.
  5. Protection from winds and drafts. Many, including winter-hardy, species that tolerate temperatures of -30⁰ C and below, suffer from winter piercing winds and drafts. For protection, agricultural practices are used - a protected place, shelter for the winter, planting in groups.

Thus, if rhododendrons are grown taking into account biological features, they will not create any problems and will delight the owners with magnificent flowering for decades.

The right choice and planting is the key to the longevity of the plant

So that the acquired rhododendrons do not become a culture of one season, you should thoroughly prepare for the reception of the plant. Agrotechnical measures preceding planting are conditionally divided into several stages - the choice of a suitable variety, the storage of components for the substrate, and the selection of a site.

plant selection

Agrotechnics of planting and caring for rhododendron largely depends on the species. If you are new to gardening, or if you are not sure about the temperature in your area, it is best to start with deciduous varieties. Firstly, they are more adapted to a cold climate; they do not require crown shelter for the winter; secondly, they are not so demanding on moisture and can grow in the open sun.

Of the deciduous shrubs, R. Canadian, Japanese, Dahurian, Schlippenbach, yellow, and pink are suitable for the middle lane. Moreover, it is better to start with species rather than varieties - they are more viable and resistant to adverse conditions.

If, nevertheless, the choice was stopped at evergreen rhododendrons, start with the Katevbinsky, Caucasian, Yakushiman species or varieties and hybrids created on their genotype.

Important! When choosing planting material, give preference to plants from local nurseries. Although they are not as attractive as those grown in the mild climate of Europe, they are hardened and adapted to the conditions of the region. The optimal age of the seedling is 3-4 years.

Location selection

The most problematic areas of the garden, unsuitable for light-loving crops, are often suitable for growing rhododendrons - in the shade of trees, on the north, north-west side of buildings. The main thing is that it be secluded, protected from the winds prevailing in the region and midday sunlight.

When placing a shrub under the trees, you need to choose varieties of the latter with a deep root system in order to delimit the plant nutrition zones. Rhododendrons prefer growing next to pines, junipers, oaks, maples, apple trees.

Substrate preparation

In our gardens, soils suitable for growing rhododendrons are quite rare, so the planting substrate should be prepared in advance. Necessary components for the soil mixture:

  • riding (red peat) with an acidic pH;
  • coniferous litter, consisting of semi-decomposed needles, twigs, cones, mixed with humus and other plant residues;
  • river sand or sandy soil (top fertile layer);
  • rotted sawdust of coniferous trees.

The substrate is prepared from peat and coniferous litter in equal proportions with the addition of one part of garden soil or river sand. Needles can be replaced with sawdust, acidify ordinary lowland peat by adding sphagnum moss, acidic fertilizers, such as potassium sulfate or ammonium. The main thing is that the substrate is light, breathable and acidic. If there is nowhere to take suitable ingredients for the substrate, you can purchase targeted soil for azaleas.

Important! One of the reasons why the rhododendron does not bloom may be alkaline soil. Such an environment has a depressing effect on the plant - in addition to not blooming, it weakly adds to growth, is affected by pests, leaf chlorosis develops.

Landing technology

Container-grown seedlings are planted both in spring and autumn. AT spring period- it is advisable to do this before the start of active vegetation, approximately in April. The autumn month of planting is September, so that the plant has time to take root and adapt before the cold weather.

A mandatory agrotechnical requirement when planting a shrub is the preparation of a deep (at least 50 cm) and wide (60–70 cm) planting hole, which is filled with a prepared substrate. It is carefully compacted and spilled with water.

Before planting, the seedling is lowered into the water so that the earthen lump becomes limp, the roots are straightened and placed in the prepared hole. Another requirement is that in no case should the root neck be deepened, it should be at the same level as before transplantation.

After planting, the root zone must be mulched. For these purposes, coniferous needles, rotted sawdust, leaves, straw are suitable. Their layer should be at least 5–7 cm thick. Mulch not only retains moisture, but also serves as a light organic fertilizer for rhododendrons.

The shrub loves group plantings - natural thickets reliably protect shoots from winds and freezing. The distance between seedlings depends on the height of an adult shrub, but not less than 1 meter.

Seasons: seasonal worries

For rhododendron, the specifics of care are determined by seasonal changes: in spring - withdrawal from winter sleep and preparation for flowering, in summer - care for growth and laying flowering buds for the next year, in autumn - preparation for winter.

Spring chores

When positive temperatures are established and there are no strong night frosts, the covering material is removed. This should be done in cloudy weather, it can be done in several steps, gradually opening the bush, first from the north, and a little later from the south. Leaves overwintered without access to light are sensitive to the bright spring sun and can get burned.

The leaves of the rhododendron in the spring remain twisted for some time, without receiving an impulse from the roots, so the first thing to do is to start the root system. To do this, rake the mulch so that the soil thaws faster. If after a week the leaves are still twisted, then they have lost a lot of moisture and the root zone should be watered with warm water.

After the buds swell, the shrub is inspected and frozen shoots and dried branches are removed. If the weather is dry, the plant must be watered at least 2-3 times a week before flowering. Watering rate - 10-15 liters per adult bush.

Important! Water for irrigation of rhododendrons should have a pH level in the range of 4-5 units, otherwise it will alkalize the soil, which is undesirable. To acidify the water, 3-4 g of citric, oxalic, acetic (70%) acid or 15-20 ml of electrolyte for batteries are dissolved in 10 liters of liquid.

Spring is the only time of the year when rhododendrons can be fed. organic fertilizers. Only well-rotted manure can be used, if possible, riding peat is added to it. A bucket of this mixture is poured into the trunk circle instead of mulch and watered abundantly.

How to feed rhododendrons in the spring, if there is no organic matter? At the end of flowering, top dressing with Kemir's targeted complex fertilizers for azaleas (rhododendrons) is effective. It is fully balanced and, in addition to containing necessary elements nutrition, acidifies the soil.

Summer care

After flowering, rhododendron care is aimed at replenishing the strength for the growth of young shoots and laying flower buds. The plant needs the following agrotechnical measures.

  • Regular, abundant watering and spraying the crown with water summer temperature during the hottest hours.
  • Removing seed pods so that the shrub does not expend energy on seed maturation, but directs them to young growth. This should be done in hot weather so that the injured shoot dries up immediately.
  • If the plant was not fertilized with Kemira during flowering, June top dressing is needed with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, ammonium nitrate (25–30 g per 10 l of water). Nitrogen is needed for the growth of green shoots. Irrigation rate - 2 buckets of solution per adult bush.
  • In addition to fertilizing rhododendrons in spring and June, some gardeners recommend fertilizing in the second half of July. By this time, the shoot completes its growth, its leaves become dense, leathery, and a flower bud appears at the top. Top dressing at this time with a phosphorus-potassium composition is a guarantee of abundant flowering next year.

Advice! For top dressing in three doses - in early spring (100 g / m²), during flowering (100 g / m²) and in mid-July (50 g / m²), use the following universal composition acidic fertilizers. Mix superphosphate (10 parts) and sulfates - ammonium (9), potassium (4), magnesium (2).

Preparing for winter

An important element of rhododendron care is proper preparation for winter.

An evergreen shrub should be very well saturated with moisture in winter so that it is enough for long months of cold weather, so it is recommended to water it abundantly in autumn. Deciduous shrub needs watering only in case of dry weather.

Both deciduous and evergreen species need to cover the root system with a thick layer of mulch (up to 20 cm). The soil is covered in trunk circle to crown radius.

For shelter, a frame of wire or wooden slats is built around the bush - a kind of impromptu wigwam. It is covered with spruce branches or covered with 2 layers of breathable covering material (burlap, lutrasil). Low-growing varieties fall asleep with fallen leaves, needles.

When growing rhododendrons, the main thing is to understand their nature, learn to recognize problems and needs according to the condition and appearance of the shrub. The plant is responsive not only to the correct agricultural technology, but love and care and will definitely reciprocate.

Video about preparing rhododendrons for winter:

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These shrubs are great when in bloom. At the beginning of the 19th century, the gardens of Russia for the first time began to decorate rhododendrons. Varieties, outdoor cultivation, planting, care, reproduction: we cultivate rhododendrons according to all the rules.

The genus of rhododendrons is quite extensive - more than 1,000 species, which include diverse varieties of this wonderful plant. The natural distribution area of ​​​​rhododendrons is limited Eastern countries: China, Japan, Korea, Himalayas; some varieties of the plant are found in the Caucasus, North America, northern Africa and Australia. On European territory, two varieties of rhododendron grow in the mountainous regions of Germany.


Rhododendron is a magnificent plant with a long flowering period.

The culture belongs to flowering deciduous or evergreen shrubs of the heather family. The branches of the plant may have a smooth bark or pubescence. Leathery, dark green small ovate leaves sometimes have pubescence. Flowers are bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, simple and double. The color of the petals varies depending on the variety: white, pink, lilac, red, purple. Modern varieties of rhododendron have a yellow and orange color. Numerous small seeds ripen in boxes.

Rhododendrons, the most suitable for cultivation in Russia, are limited to 26 species belonging to three groups of plants.

  • Evergreens are tall shrubs that do not shed dark leathery foliage even in winter. Large flowers are painted in different colors and tones. Growing evergreen rhododendrons in the open field requires compliance with a number of necessary rules: plants are placed in places with scattered shade; the soil for them should include a large amount of peat.

Rhododendron evergreen

Tip: It is important to choose the right neighborhood for evergreen rhododendron species, especially when designing territories in landscape design. It can be all types of conifers, heather, ferns grown in the open field.

  • Intermediate (semi-evergreen) - low shrubs that winter well under a layer of snow. The plant is characterized by a compact form, a huge number of flowers during the flowering period. AT winter period the main part of the leathery leaves falls off, only a whorl of leaves remains at the ends of the branches, from the center of which new foliage grows.

semi-evergreen rhododendron
  • Deciduous - rhododendrons of this group are most adapted to the conditions of the Russian climate. Growing these plants is not difficult, and the plants themselves do not need to specially adapt in the winter. Flowering in spring, repeated in autumn.

Rhododendron deciduous, grade "Fireworks"

Planting a plant

Rhododendron: planting and caring for plants in compliance with agrotechnical rules - transplanting plants in spring and autumn is allowed. In autumn - in any of the three months, in spring - in warm, settled weather, when the soil is no longer frozen (usually April or May).

The choice of a place for planting a plant must be carried out with great care. Planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing wind and direct sunlight. It is important that the bush is available for viewing, then decorative look plants during the flowering period will decorate the territory and delight the eye.

Tip: before planting a plant from a container in open ground, it should be thoroughly saturated with water.

A landing pit for rhododendron bushes is prepared based on the actual size of the root system, and should be 2 times larger in volume. Natural soil should be removed completely. For planting a plant, it is required to prepare a special earthen consisting in equal parts of heather land; peat; garden soil or leaf humus; rotted manure; needles (pine).


It is very important to plant the plant correctly, then it will quickly take root.

The prepared pit is filled with a mixture, a place is prepared in it for planting a rhododendron bush, which must be placed strictly vertically. The soil around the root system of the plant must be tightly compressed - the formation of voids and "pockets" in the planting soil is not allowed. With a high level of groundwater, laying a special drainage layer at the bottom of the pit should be provided. The top layer of soil after planting should be mulched with peat chips.

Rhododendron: proper watering

Watering of the planted plant is carried out at the time of planting - plentiful, sufficient to moisten the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm. Subsequent watering of the rhododendron should be done with soft, acidified water, with complete soil moisture.

Tip: When planting a plant with buds, it is necessary to remove most of them.

plant care

A transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular abundant watering, rhododendron requires spraying on the foliage, especially when planted in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to retain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.


The plant needs regular watering.

The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, thin hairs, similar to tangled hair, so loosening the soil, especially deep soil, should be excluded from flower care measures. Weeds growing near the plant must be removed periodically.

The appearance of the plant will immediately report a lack or excess of water - the leaves of the rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering is required to be carried out in sufficient quantities, but without overflow, this is one of the main rules for caring for a crop.

To provide proper care for rhododendron, it is important to carry out timely pruning of overgrown bushes. Places of cuts to prevent infection of the plant are smeared with paint or garden pitch.


Bushes need to be trimmed periodically

Compliance with simple requirements for caring for a plant will allow you to grow a wonderful flowering bush.

Fertilizer and top dressing of rhododendron

In the first year, transplanted plants already require careful fertilization, which is applied in highly diluted form, in small portions. The plant itself will signal the need for fertilizer: it will stop growing, shed its leaves or the leaves will change color, the formation of flower buds will stop.

Organic fertilizer for feeding rhododendron bushes - semi-decomposed manure that needs to be infused in water. Top dressing is carried out aqueous solution manure. To increase the formation of flower buds, as well as to prolong the flowering period, granular superphosphate, or double superphosphate, is used, which is scattered on the moist soil under the plants. Useful for the plant and fertilizing with microelements - fertilizers are applied in the form of watering or spraying the green mass of the bush. Intensively fertilize the bushes until the end of August.


Rhododendron before flowering

Reproduction of rhododendron

Growing a rhododendron involves propagating the plant by layering and seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, and cuttings.

Reproduction by seeds- a great way to get plants with improved traits. Sowing is carried out from the end of December to the end of March. The second period suitable for seed propagation of rhododendrons is the end of November.

Sowing seeds is carried out in shallow bowls or boxes filled with a nutrient mixture of peat, sand, coniferous and soddy soil, taken in equal proportions. Seeds are pre-soaked for a day. Sowing is carried out on the top layer of soil, without embedding deep into the ground. Sowing is moistened by spraying. It is required to provide seedlings with 12-hour illumination with fluorescent lamps. The timing of seed germination depends on the variety. The first flowering of seedlings is possible in 3-4 years.


Rhododendron seeds

This method has its advantages, but with seed propagation of rhododendrons, it takes up to 5-6 years to obtain full-fledged plants.

New plants can be obtained faster with vegetative methods of crop propagation: cuttings, division of the bush, rooting of cuttings.

Diseases and pests

Fulfillment of the requirements for agricultural technology of rhododendrons guarantees excellent growth and development of plants. However, repeated overmoistening or overdrying of the soil, alkaline reaction of the soil, sunburn of the leaves, can provoke a surge in crop diseases.

Plants can be damaged by blotches, rust and chlorosis. Disease control measures – improvement of plant conditions, application of special means to fight disease. Often diseases of rhododendrons are caused by pathogenic fungi: gray rot, fusarium, late blight.


Spotting - fungal disease rhododendron

Pests that damage rhododendrons: slugs and snails that eat young leaves and buds. The collection of these pests is done manually. In addition, the plant is harmed by: bugs (rhododendron), spider mites, mealybugs, weevils, scale insects, rhododendron fly. Getting rid of pests is not difficult with the use of systemic insecticides.

Rhododendron: combination with other plants

Planting plants in combination with conifers and a group of heathers has a positive effect on the development of rhododendrons. In this case, you should remember the height of the rhododendron bush. Low cultivars should be located away from the dense shade of mature trees, but avoiding direct sunlight.


Blooming rhododendron perfectly sets off coniferous plants

Great combination observed when shade-loving ferns and hosts are located next to rhododendrons.

Rhododendron in landscape design

In landscape design, rhododendron is an indispensable attribute for planting in partial shade. The huge advantages of the plant are its long and very decorative flowering. Rhododendrons are widely used in the design of heather gardens, as an addition to planting pine groves. The plant looks great in mono plantings.


Rhododendron in landscape design

Low-growing varieties of rhododendrons are planted near alpine hills, in mixborders and in decorative flower beds.

Planting a garden rhododendron: video

  • Style: heather
  • Flowering period: April May June
  • Height: 0.3-1.5m
  • Colour: white, pink, purple, red, yellow, purple
  • perennial
  • hibernates
  • Shade-loving
  • moisture-loving

It is difficult to imagine a suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their magnificent hats throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle lane and the southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. Finding an approach to it is not easy, but growing and caring for rhododendrons over time for some lovers rare plants turns into a hobby - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, but grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in the southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or in Stavropol. However, some varieties, such as Daursky or Canadian, thrive well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, the Urals, or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your country cottage area with its splendid blooms.

Literally translated from Latin, “rhododendron” means “rose tree” - and indeed, in its appearance, the plant is very similar to a rose, although it does not belong to rosaceae, but to heather

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known home azalea, which often adorns the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, North America, some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are separate bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of the mountains and in coastal marine areas.

Mountain varieties are small in size and are ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only up to 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (and there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will not be a problem either, since the color palette of cultures is almost limitless. Flowering culture begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to the luxurious color palette garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following the general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, that is, during the growing season convenient for you, excluding the time of flowering and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on spring planting, which continues, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted before this period are already covered with a thick color by the May holidays - against the background of barely hatched foliage and fresh grassy greenery, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering falls on the last decade of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right landing site, since in the bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not lush flowering.

It is best to break a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely closed from them.

Not only the walls of the building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shadow barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruces, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot stand alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

  • dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
  • the lower part is drained with a sand-pebble layer (10-15 cm);
  • they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), while the peat should be about 2 times more;
  • lightly tamp the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earth seedling;
  • lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and cover it with soil mixture up to the very root neck, which as a result should be on the same level with the soil surface;
  • water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
  • mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted needles, leaves and chopped oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to take root better in a new place, thoroughly soak the roots with water before planting - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

An approximate scheme for planting a rhododendron: 1 - garden soil; 2 - drainage; 3 - soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 - a layer of pine needles

There is another trick that contributes to a better development of the root system. At a flowering plant, cut off the most lush buds - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further care for rhododendrons - milestones, following which, you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to do the design of the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape, and decorate the base depending on the style of landscape design of your site.

The nuances of caring for flowers

Rules for proper care flowering shrub do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to observe the watering regime, weed and trim in time, feed the plant with suitable minerals and make sure that pests do not start.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, in no case do not use a chopper or garden knife, you can only work manually.

Irrigation mode and features

The ratio of rhododendron to moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even while choosing a landing site, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to observe the irrigation and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, previously acidifying the water - for this, 12-20 hours before watering, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water. It is better not to use tap water, in extreme cases, it must be defended. Perfect option- Rain fees. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy sheen and changed turgor, it's time to water.

When is the best time to prune a plant?

The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering shrub of the correct shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to be pruned. But sometimes you need to thin out the shrub, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, until sap flow begins. Choose strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and process the cuts with a specially prepared garden pitch or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will start, lasting throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Particular skill requires pruning of frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second - next

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly violent color, next year expect more modest results. To prevent this from happening, remove wilted buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branching shrubs with dense foliage and many buds are a great habitat for insects, half of which are able to destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the shrub.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are harvested by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealy worms. Treat stems and branches with 8% Tiram fungicide, Karbofos helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially the weevil, for which diazonin is used to get rid of. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to process not only the plant itself, but also the topsoil around it.

Along with pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux liquid is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Top dressing and fertilizer selection

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. Superphosphate, potassium sulphate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulphate or calcium, ammonium are used to preserve the acidic medium important for the culture, but in a minimum concentration.

Early spring top dressing is made up of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g per 1 cubic meter of liquid magnesium sulfate or ammonium), it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the fertilizer dose should be reduced to 20 g.

Ideal top dressing for rhododendrons - liquid solution natural fertilizers such as hornmeal or cow dung. The rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part of fertilizer to 15 parts of water), infused for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.

1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to renew the topsoil. To do this, peat is mixed in equal proportions with humus or compost and sprinkled around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium sulfate are added to the bedding (dry matter - 1 tablespoon each). As a dry powder, you can use "Agricola" for flowering garden plants. Remember that only carefully watered shrubs need to be fertilized.

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Consider the three most successful ways of propagating rhododendron in garden conditions:

  • seeds;
  • cuttings;
  • layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and laborious task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes with moist peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and exposed to a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

Seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm scheme. Seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Propagation by cuttings is also not tolerated by all gardeners. It is necessary to take the shoots, half-woody, and cut several cuttings from them about 7-8 cm long.

Leaves are removed from the lower part, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimum temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in the boxes, and only after a couple of years they can be transplanted to the main place of growth.

The most convenient breeding option is pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and lay the process in this groove.

So that it does not rise, the middle part of the stem is pinned, and sprinkled with peat on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck in the ground

The layering is looked after in the same way as the whole bush - watered, sprayed. When it takes root (in late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular country varieties

AT coniferous garden the 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will get along well. He is different abundant flowering buds up to 4 cm in diameter.

If warm season is delayed, then the Daurian variety will definitely please you with repeated autumn bloom, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom normally

Rhododendron Adams is an eastern guest accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with pale pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. In our country it is found infrequently, and in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual pale yellow or cream shade, which will remarkably dilute the more saturated, juicy colors of other varieties.

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in middle lane Russia

And finally - a short video on how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.