Care of deciduous trees and shrubs. Summer tree and shrub care Spring garden dressing
Planting trees and shrubs in the permanent place of the landscaping object is not the end of the landscaping work. After planting, care for plants includes agrotechnical measures that ensure the survival of plants and create conditions for their normal growth and development.
The first years after planting are the most critical for plants, since they are found in unusual environmental conditions with damaged root systems. At this time, plants, with proper care, heal wounds, gradually restore root systems; along with this, the growth of the aerial part is improved. The time of plant survival and full restoration of their vital activity can be different depending on the biological properties, condition and age of the seedlings. Shrub plants take root most quickly; the period of their complete survival lasts 2-3 years. The period of full survival of 6-11-year-old trees-seedlings lasts 3-4 years. In large trees and shrubs, the survival time is longer and lasts 5 years.
Post-planting care is carried out taking into account the timing of planting and natural and climatic factors. In all cases, post-planting care is carried out regularly throughout the season and is usually reduced to such activities as thorough and regular watering, loosening and mulching of the near-trunk space, and top dressing.
For more active root formation during the growing season, it is recommended to add solutions of growth stimulants, such as salts of heteroauxin or beta-indole-liloacetic acid, simultaneously with watering. Heteroauxin is usually produced in tablets, each of which contains 100 mg of the active ingredient. To add it to the soil in the form of a solution, one tablet must be dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Research and practice have established the following rates for the application of a growth stimulator (in l) per plant, depending on the age and size of the plant:
standard shrubs-seedlings (3-5 years) ……. 10
standard trees-seedlings (6-11 years) ……… 20
Stimulants are best applied in the spring, at the beginning of the regeneration of root systems. The stimulant solution is introduced into the seedling holes immediately after watering evenly over the entire area of the near-stem circle with the calculation of soaking the entire root zone. For plants planted with a lump, the solution is applied along the borders of the coma, where the root cuts are located. To this end, a shallow groove is dug around the perimeter of the lump, into which the solution is carefully poured. After distributing the liquid along the groove, the soil surface is mulched with dry peat.
The next treatment is done no earlier than 5-6 days later. It is especially necessary to treat clearly weakened plants with growth stimulants, which is usually detected by the state of the leaves at the beginning of the growing season.
In the first growing season, systematic watering of the planted plants plays an important role: during the season, the plants must be watered at least 7-10 times. The irrigation rate depends on weather conditions, biological properties of plants, their size and age, as well as on the mechanical composition and water-holding capacity of the soil.
Depending on the size of the plants and their root systems, practice has established the following average rates of watering per plant (in l):
shrubs-seedlings ……………… .10--20
seedling trees …………………<10--50
large trees …………… 100-150
big trees …………………… 200-250
Before watering, the rollers of the holes are looked through and straightened, and the mulch is raked off and stacked in piles. Water the plants with a hose from a water washer.
Watering of the planted plants is stopped in August, so that the plants are normally prepared for winter, their shoots are sufficiently lignified, and the buds are differentiated. At the same time, if summer and autumn are dry, watering should be continued until late autumn in order to provide the plants with moisture and thereby prevent them from drying out in winter.
Loosening of the soil in the near-trunk holes is of great importance. This event is carried out regularly in order to destroy weeds, ensure respiration of the root systems and aerate the surface layer of the soil at least 4-5 times during the growing season to a depth of 4-5 cm so as not to damage the root systems. Loosening is carried out with garden hoes.
It is very useful during the summer period to sprinkle the crowns of young tree seedlings and the aboveground part of shrubs with water, especially in dry weather. In the second year after planting, it is useful to combine sprinkling with foliar dressing in the form of solutions of mineral fertilizers.
urea ………………… ..… ..0.1%
ammonium nitrate …………… 0.2%
superphosphate ……………… 0.5 --- 1%
potassium chloride ………… ..… .0.5% - now
Working solutions of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are prepared on the day of use by dissolving in cold tap water, and superphosphate is infused a day before use.
During the summer period, young plantings are constantly monitored: they check the attachment of trees to the stakes, tighten loose garters, and replace the broken ones with new ones. Fixing stakes are straightened if they bent or replaced if broken. In the third year after planting, after the plant is completely rooted, the fastening stakes are removed.
In autumn, the tree-trunk holes of trees and shrubs are loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm and peat or humus is poured over the surface with a layer of 3-4 cm to insulate the plants.
It is always conducted in two main directions:
- care for the root system (feeding, watering, loosening the soil);
- caring for the crown (providing protection from pests and diseases).
Let's talk about watering first.... It must guarantee constant normal soil moisture throughout the entire depth of root growth of shrubs and trees. The best development in a tree is achieved with an average soil moisture of 60-70%. Watering should be done daily in the morning or evening. The irrigated area should not be less than the crown projection area. The optimum watering depth is 50-60 cm.
In the first few years after landing trees and shrubs require more frequent watering. Shrubs are recommended to be watered 3-4 times during the growing season at rates of 20-25 liters / 2 near-stem area. During the dry autumn, somewhere in the second half of October, a few weeks before the onset of frost, additional watering of the plants should be carried out, especially if they are moisture-loving.
Loosening the soil and mulching the soil should also be given due attention. These steps involved in tree and shrub maintenance play an important role in the vitality of many plants. For mulching, you can use peat, compost, vermicompost or leaf humus. Mulching is usually done at the end of April.
Optimal loosening depth the soil is 5-10 cm for trees, 3-5 cm for shrubs. The first loosening should be done in the spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the upper layers of the soil are sufficiently dry. The average amount of loosening is 2-3 times during the growing season. It is best to loosen the soil after watering or heavy rain.
The nutrient intake of each plant is different and depends largely on age. For hardwoods: nitrogen - 50 grams of active ingredient per 1 m 2; phosphorus - 90; potassium - 40. For conifers: phosphorus - 50; nitrogen - 12.5; potassium - 10. For shrubs: phosphorus - 5-7; nitrogen - 5-7; potassium - 6-8.
The first feeding should be done in the spring, during the period when the kidney scales open and shoots grow. The second feeding is done in the fall during the period of active leaf fall.
- This is one of the main activities for the care of shrubs and trees. During pruning, dry and damaged branches are removed, old branches of the crown are removed and the desired shape and size is given, necessary for landscape design. It should be remembered that a haircut for many shrubs is not only useless, but also carries some harm. Therefore, before trimming various plants, you should make sure that it does not harm them.
For the winter, many trees and shrubs are sheltered from frost using kraft paper or special non-woven materials, if they are not frost-resistant. These plants are revealed only in the second half of April.
Compared to other types of planting (rockeries, mixborders, rose gardens), trees do not require as much attention to themselves if they are properly cared for during the first few years.
Basic maintenance activities include watering, loosening, weeding the crop circles, top dressing, and formative pruning.
Within two to three years, you need to regularly check the straps (ensure the immobility of the root ball in the ground and protect the growing roots from rupture in windy weather) and weaken them as the trunk thickens (constrictions prevent the flow of nutrients from the roots to the crown, slow down the growth and development of the tree ).
Spring
In March-April, before bud break, the dead bark is cleaned from the boles with a metal brush. At the same time, trees are pruned:
- sanitary - remove sick, frozen and damaged branches;
- forming - they form the habit of the plant, regulate its size, create a symmetrical, uniform crown and a strong skeleton, which affects the resistance of trees to wind and the illumination of the crown, leads to an improvement in the quality of flowering, an increase in the size of fruits. Formation includes pinching, shortening shoots and thinning the crown. Thinning of crowns ensures physiological and biological conformity of the crown and root system, better ventilation and illumination of the crowns. Sick, damaged, old, intertwining and weak branches are cut out and create a feathery, stemless, standard, tiered, spherical or flat crown.
- removal of sick, drying out, broken and growing inside the crown of the branches;
- removal of branches growing below the grafting site;
- cutting of one of the branches close or rubbing against each other, and the weakest is removed;
- removal of branches growing upward (at an acute angle to the trunk).
In fast-growing species (poplars, ash-leaved maple, green ash, etc.) at a young age, it is recommended to remove 60-70% of the annual growth, and in slow-growing (apple, lime, elm, Norway maple, etc.) - 20-50%. This shortening promotes the formation of strong shoots from the middle part of the crown. Fast-growing species (poplar, downy ash, etc.) are pruned annually. Slow-growing (maples, elms, lindens, etc.) are pruned every two to three years by shortening the annual growth.
Rejuvenating pruning is carried out to stimulate the life of plants by pruning 2-4 years old wood. Such rejuvenation of plants is carried out only in trees that have stopped growing, and only in those that tolerate pruning well (willow, poplar, almond, hawthorn). The rejuvenation process is carried out gradually over 2-3 years so that new shoots can form a natural crown shape. Trees that have undergone anti-aging pruning require careful maintenance.
Shrub pruning
Shrubs differ in their biological characteristics. Some bloom on last year's shoots, others on this year's shoots. Everyone has a different growth rate and shoot-forming ability. As a result, they require different pruning.
Beautiful flowering shrubs are grown for great flowers, so the main purpose of pruning them is to achieve abundant flowering. By the peculiarities of pruning, flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.
The first group includes shrubs that do not form powerful replacing shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growth of these shrubs appears along the perimeter of the crown. Of the most common plants in garden plots, such shrubs include: common viburnum, cotoneaster, scumpia, irga, magnolia (stellate and Sulange), Japanese quince (chaenomeles). They need minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the skeleton of the plant from strong branches. To do this, in the early spring (during the dormant period), remove all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots. Pruning mature shrubs can be limited by removing dried, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some live shoots are also removed or pruned in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative appearance of the bushes.
The second group includes shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots. These include: broom, action, forsythia, kerria, blood-red currants, ash spirea, Tunber spiraea, Wangutta spiraea, nippon spiraea, sharp-serrated spirea, honeysuckle, stephanandra, weigela, forsythia, tamarix, lilac. They usually bloom in spring or early summer. The planted plants are not cut off much - they are limited to the removal of weak and damaged branches. Immediately after flowering, faded branches are cut off, leaving a strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed. And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Faded branches are cut off, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush. You should also regularly cut to the base a fourth of the old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the emergence of young powerful shoots from the base of the bush.
However, there are some nuances. In Japanese kerrias, faded branches should be cut to the base or into strong young shoots. Garden hydrangea (especially at a young age), on the contrary, is pruned purely "cosmetically" - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only a part of the old stems are removed in order to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots.
The third group includes shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the current year: buddleya of David, tseanotus, treelike and panicle hydrangea, privet, snowberry, fieldfare, three-lobed almonds, Japanese spiraea, Boomald spiraea, willow spiraea and Douglas spiraea. In early spring, adult shrubs of this group are strongly pruned so that they form powerful shoots - then they bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. They cut out a weak growth and shorten the growth of the last year by ½, and in strong-growing ones by 2/3. Without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases. In the first year after planting, young seedlings of these shrubs are not cut as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system). Subsequently, they are heavily pruned annually in early spring. In this case, all last year's shoot growths are cut to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem. If after a few years the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative effect of the bush.
Ornamental deciduous shrubs types and forms with original foliage include: white-bordered form of white turf, golden form of black elderberry and spirea of Bumald, barberry of Thunberg, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, scumpia, blister. This also includes species with beautiful annual shoots: varieties of white deer, willow, raspberry. They must be pruned annually in early spring, and pruned quite strongly (shorten last year's growth to 3-5 cm) in order to cause active growth of young shoots and their leaves have reached the maximum decorative effect.
Shrubs prone to thickening of the crown (chubushnik), it is better not to shorten, but to thin out every three years.
Evergreen rhododendrons do not prune, but carefully twist the flowers without damaging the growth buds under them. Frozen branches are cut out in late spring, when the buds are already swollen.
Trimming lavender and heathers aims to keep the bush compact and should therefore be done regularly.
Before the buds dissolve, the shelters are removed: first, the shelter is raised, increasing the ventilation, but leaving partial shading, and after 10 days they are removed altogether; rake off the warming mulch to thaw the soil.
At the first opportunity, it is necessary to loosen the topsoil to a depth of 4-5 cm to preserve moisture reserves at a distance: 0.5 m from the trunk of trees up to 5 years and shrubs; 1.0 m from the trunk of trees 5-15 years; 1.5 m from the trunk of trees for more than 15 years.
When the kidneys swell, the injuries are treated - the wounds are cleaned and disinfected with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.
Immediately after the snow melts, nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 10 g of urea per 1m 2.
The plantings are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3-0.4%) against pathogens.
With budding, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing frozen branches - they are easy to distinguish by unblown or dried leaves at the beginning of blooming.
When buds appear, you can once again process the plantings with a 0.3-0.4% solution of copper oxychloride in combination with a 0.1% solution of actellik, kinmix, decis or others against diseases and pests (it is impossible if the fruits will be used for food) and deep loosening followed by mulching with peat, humus or crushed wood chips.
If the weather is dry, it is necessary to water the plants. On average, the following irrigation rates (l) are applied:
Shrub saplings ……… .10 - 20;
Saplings of trees …………. 40 - 50;
Large trees ... ... 100 - 150;
Big trees ……………. 200 - 250.
Simultaneously with watering, you can add 0.001 - 0.003% heteroauxin solution to stimulate root formation. The stimulant solution is usually applied to the wells immediately after watering, evenly over the entire near-stem area.
Top dressing for tree plantations is just as important as for flower beds. They are necessary for the good development of the crown, large foliage, and abundant flowering. Hedges, which are regularly trimmed, can especially suffer from a lack of nutrients.
On young plantings, foliar feeding is useful, which is produced by spraying plants with solutions of urea mineral fertilizers (0.1%); ammonium nitrate (0.2%), superphosphate (0.5-1.0%), potassium chloride (0.5%). Foliar dressing is combined with treatment with insecticide solutions. Process in the morning and evening hours or cloudy days without rain. Do not process in strong winds, before and immediately after rain. To ensure the effectiveness of feeding in dry soil, plants must be watered before treatment.
If the trunks are not mulched, then during flowering a third cultivation is carried out in order to improve root respiration and destroy weeds.
Summer
After flowering, early flowering shrubs are pruned. On all breeds, shoots are removed and tops are removed. Hedges and borders are trimmed to give them a given decorative shape. At the same time, up to 1/2 of the growth of shoots is cut off from hedges and borders. During the season, 3-6 hedges are cut, depending on the growth rate of the plants. To fix hedges that are bare from below, you can cut off the entire above-ground part and leave hemp 5-10 cm high.
If you grow varieties with variegated foliage, then the appearance of green branches is not possible. They have a higher growth rate, and you will not notice how the whole plant "recolors" to its normal color. Therefore, green shoots are immediately cut out.
Many garden plants are grown as grafted, which means that you need to cut out the shoots in time (they come from the stock).
In dry weather, 6-8 waterings are carried out. The first watering is combined with liquid mineral fertilizing with mineral fertilizers in the following composition per 10 liters of solution: urea - 30 g, superphosphate 20 g, potassium salt - 10 g. 0.001 - 0.003% heteroauxin can be added to this solution. Watering at the rate of 30 liters for trees 10-20 years old, 50 liters for trees over 20 years old, 10-15 liters for shrubs. Optimal watering is ensured by the capillary irrigation system, which is one of the elements of the automatic irrigation system.
Watering is completed in mid-August with water-charging irrigation - 70-80 l / m2 for shrubs and 100-150 l / m2 for trees. After each watering, in the absence of mulch, the trunks are loosened.
During the summer, 5-6 washings of the crowns of deciduous shrubs and trees and 8-10 of conifers are performed. Crowns are washed to remove dust and insects from the leaves. Washing the crowns improves photosynthesis, metabolism and heat exchange. Washing is carried out in the early morning hours or in the evening until the leaves, branches and trunk are completely wetted. Water consumption per tree depends on its age. So, for a tree 8-11 years old, you need 15-20 liters of water, 12-20 years old - 20-30, 21-30 years old - 40-50, 30 years and older - up to 100 liters.
In July, 30 g / m2 of potassium salt is applied to increase frost resistance and enhance the setting of flower buds.
Autumn
In September, once every four years, the main fertilizer is applied in doses (per instance):
- shrubs - superphosphate 60g, potassium salt 30g, manure 5kg;
- trees up to 5 years old - superphosphate 120g, potassium salt 60g, manure 10kg;
- trees 5-10 years old - superphosphate 240g, potassium salt 120g, manure 20kg;
- trees 10-15 years old - superphosphate 480g, potassium salt 240g, manure 40kg;
- trees over 15 years old - superphosphate 1000g, potash salt 480g, manure 80kg;
On fertile soils, the dose should be reduced by 1.5-2 times.
After the fertilizers are evenly distributed over the soil surface, they are embedded to a depth of 14-18 cm.
When leaf fall occurs, especially if your site suffers from any pests and diseases, it is better to rake the falling leaves and destroy, since it serves as an excellent wintering place for insects and phytopathogen spores.
In thermophilic crops, the trunks are mulched. After leaf fall, they are sheltered for the winter (using boxes, frames, covering materials).
The tree trunks are tied to prevent damage from rodents with spruce branches, tar paper, roofing material, fiberglass, metal mesh, and other material to a height of at least 70-80 cm - not lower than the snow cover. Any shelter is covered with earth so that the mice cannot get close from below.
Winter
In winter, it is necessary to periodically shake off snow from plantations, especially hedges. Otherwise, snow piles will cause branches to break, walk-throughs will appear in the hedge, and tree crowns will become asymmetrical and you will have to start their formation anew.
Lianas, with the exception of climbing roses, are less whimsical to care for. Roses and clematis need a garter to support, the rest of the climbing plants do an excellent job on their own. The main thing is to limit their growth in the space allocated for them.
Proper, constant maintenance will make your garden beautiful, neat and healthy. During this time, the garden is prepared for the fruiting season, the crown is restored, fertilizers are applied, and the plants are protected from pests.
First works on the site
In early spring in the garden:
- carefully examine the trees;
- free branches from loose snow;
- build supports for bent branches;
- remove insulation from boles;
- reveal cracks formed from a sharp temperature drop.
Under the detached bark, pests quickly colonize, fungal infections develop, and hollows form in frost holes. Wounds heal immediately.
After the snow melts in the garden, they put things in order:
- raking leaves;
- collecting broken branches;
- pulling out the first weeds.
Spring whitewashing of trees is carried out immediately. Timely execution of work will help to avoid burns of the bark by the spring sun, and will protect from pests. The composition of the solution, its concentration should be determined by a specialist.
They also put things in order in the plantings of the shrubs: they remove the mulch, last year's leaves. It is better to burn all the remains, since larvae and harmful insects can hibernate in them.
Spraying trees, shrubs
Processing helps to destroy overwintered pests, fruit rot, and prevents the development of diseases. In the spring, three treatments of trees and berries are carried out with special preparations.
The first spraying is done before the buds swell, as soon as the threat of night frost has passed. The next irrigation is carried out before flowering, the last one - a week after it.
Only an agronomist can choose the right chemicals, prepare combined compositions. depends on the height of the tree, the density of the crown.
| № | Height of tree / shrub | Unit rev. | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Up to 1 m | PC. | from 100 p. |
| 2 | 1-2 m | PC. | from 200 p. |
| 3 | 2-3 m | PC. | from 300 p. |
| 4 | 3-4 m | PC. | from 400 p. |
| 5 | 5-7 m | PC. | from 1000 rub. |
| 6 | Above 7 m | PC. | from 2,000 rub. |
| 7 | Lawn | weaving | from 500 p. |
Spring feeding of the garden
The introduction of mineral fertilizers in the spring is necessary to replenish nutrients in the soil, the growth and fruiting of trees.
On flat areas, fertilizing with mineral compounds is carried out before the snow melts. Together with the melt water, useful additives will be absorbed into the soil. Gardens growing on slopes are fertilized after the snow melts.
It is important to choose the right dosage of fertilizers: excess or lack of nutrients negatively affects the development and fruiting of trees and bushes. The amount of fertilizers is calculated by the agronomist depending on the age of the fruit tree, the state of the trunk, and the bark.
In the spring, fruit trees and berry crops are carefully poured twice. The first watering is carried out before the buds swell, the second - three weeks after flowering.
The soil in the tree trunks is regularly loosened, mulched, and weeds are removed. performed by our specialists. The cost of services does not include the cost of materials (geotextile, mulch).
Removing unnecessary growth
Fruit trees, shrubs often scatter shoots that reduce the attractiveness of the garden, slow down the growth, development of garden plantings, and disrupt the harmony of landscape design. In the process of updating the garden, it becomes necessary to remove mature trees.
Our specialists accurately and safely carry out all work on. The cost of work depends on the type, size of tree-like plants.
Notes:
1) The cost of removal depends on the size of the removed plant. The removal of plant residues is paid separately.
2) When removing the vegetable turf (lawn), transportation over a distance of 50 m is paid additionally.
Comprehensive garden care
our company will take responsibility for preparing your garden for the new season. We have sufficient experience, the necessary tools, the desire to help gardeners.
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Plants need care not only in the summer season, but also in the winter months, therefore, by summarizing the information on the content of various horticultural crops, you can draw up a so-called calendar for the care of trees and shrubs.
The timing of the work depends on the soil and climatic conditions of the area, the biological characteristics of the crops grown and the timing of the development of plants. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the weather conditions of the current year. The proposed recommendations are designed mainly for the climatic conditions of the middle zone. Based on this, each gardener should use the recommendations, taking into account the specific conditions of the area, weather and deviations of air temperature from the average long-term data.
January
The main concern in January is to protect trees and shrubs from frost damage. In the absence of snow, the roots may freeze if the soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm drops to -12-18 ° C. The best protection for roots and boles is snow. If there is not enough snow, then it is collected from the paths and from the ditches. To accumulate snow, branches and brushwood are scattered over the site in advance. If frosts below -30 ° C are expected, then the stems and bases of skeletal branches are covered with snow. After heavy snowfalls, branches of trees and shrubs can break off under the weight of the snow, so the snow is carefully shaken off, and during thaws it is removed with a long pole wrapped at the end with burlap or foam rubber.
In winter, the enemies of young trees and shrubs are rodents, eating the bark of boles and skeletal branches. It is not too late to protect trees in January (if there was no time to carry out appropriate measures in the fall). It is necessary to trample the snow tightly around the trunk, tie the trunk with spruce branches or wormwood (you can also use roofing material, roofing felt, metal mesh, plastic wrap).
In early January, Schisandra chinensis seeds are soaked in water for five days, changing the water daily. After this period, the seeds are sown in boxes with potting soil.
February
February is dangerous for trees to overwinter with sharp temperature changes, so you must constantly monitor that the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches are under a snow cover.
Mice and hares become more active in February. It is easier for hares to get to young branches, which are difficult to protect, along high snowdrifts. At this time, various deterrent agents are used, for example, the branches are sprayed with a solution of tar or creolin (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).
March
In the first half of March, the snow begins to melt, so we must strive to keep the melt water on the site. Under the rays of the sun, the snow quickly settles, freeing tree trunks, which must be examined for damage by rodents.
If there are only focal and superficial injuries on the bark and the wounds heal quickly, they may not even be treated. If a significant part of the bark is damaged, the wound is coated with garden varnish.
March is dangerous for trees and shrubs from sunburns on boles and in the forks of skeletal branches, the appearance of burns is explained by the strong heating of the bark on sunny days and the subsequent sharp change in air temperature, to prevent this phenomenon, they produce sunscreen whitewashing.
On warm March days, they usually start pruning trees and shrubs. It starts with older plants. After pruning, the shrubs are sprinkled in early spring with a 3-4% solution of nitrafen (300-400 g per 10 l of water) to destroy the wintering stages of pests. Also in March, they are preparing for the arrival of birds - orderlies of the garden: they clean and repair old bird houses, hang new ones.
In March, boxes with seeds of actinidia sown in autumn are transferred from the basement to a bright room with an air temperature of 15-18 C. Usually, shoots appear after 15-25 days.
April
Pruning is continued until bud break. The planting of trees and shrubs begins. First of all, winter grafts are planted, stored in a cold place.
After the snow melts, the near-trunk areas are freed from the insulation material, all last year's leaves and other plant residues are collected and used for compost.
All planting work should be completed in early May. Plants planted in autumn are carefully examined: if they are deeply buried or planted too shallow, they are replanted again, watered and mulched.
Sowing of stratified seeds is continued. Monitor the emergence of seedlings. In May, fruit crops are grafted with cuttings.
Rapid growth of leaves and shoots begins in May. But if the previous winter caused freezing of trees, they, as a rule, have a delay in vegetation. In this case, pruning is done in May (not April).
June
June is a month of intensive growth of shoots and ovaries. Both young and adult plants at this time should be provided with nutrition and moisture as best as possible. The soil is fertilized and kept loose. In trees with strong freezing of the aboveground part, strong growth of root shoots begins in June. If it is not removed in a timely manner and correctly, over time it can overtake the tree itself in growth and even destroy it.
Spraying from pests is carried out immediately after flowering. In early June, on some shrubs, especially in rainy and cool weather, a dangerous disease, powdery mildew, may appear. Its first sign is the formation of a thin silvery-white bloom on the underside of young leaves. With a severe defeat, the bushes may even die. The fight against powdery mildew is effective only at the very beginning of the disease, so in June it is necessary to examine the shrubs more often in order not to miss the first signs of the disease and spray the plants in time.
July
During the period of mass formation of roots in green cuttings, plantings are fertilized with fertilizers. The soil is loosened, mulched, freed from weeds, make sure that it does not dry out.
Siderates (mustard, phacelia, peas, vetch) are sown in the unoccupied aisles of the garden to enrich the soil with organic substances. They are especially useful in waterlogged areas, because they dry them out and stop the growth of trees, which contributes to better preparation for winter.
At the end of July, the seeds of some plants are harvested (for example, irgi). Many trees and shrubs are harvested in July.
August
The main agrotechnical task of this month is to create the necessary conditions for preparation for winter for trees and shrubs. If too much organic and mineral fertilizers have been applied, shoot growth is still
can continue.
Sometimes rainy weather in August causes secondary growth of shoots; to stop this undesirable phenomenon, it is necessary to remove the mulch, and pinch the tops of strongly growing shoots in young plants.
By August, hopeless, dead trees and shrubs that need to be removed from the site are clearly identified.
September
The main work of this month is related to harvesting and preparing plants for winter. Also in September, they carry out sanitary pruning of trees, cutting out all dried and diseased branches on a ring, which are clearly visible against the background of not yet fallen leaves.
At the end of September, they dig up the soil in the near-trunk areas, water it and fertilize it.
October
At the end of the month, seedlings are added in for the winter. To do this, a trench is dug 40-50 cm deep, the southern side of which is made inclined, seedlings are placed in one row at an angle of 45. The roots are buried to the level of the root collar and watered. The buried plants are covered with spruce branches.
To prevent the branches of young trees from breaking under the weight of the snow, they are lifted and the ends are tied to the central conductor. To protect against sunburn, the trunks and forks of skeletal branches are coated with freshly slaked lime or chalk with the addition of copper sulfate, previously dissolved in hot water (0.4 kg), and wood glue (0.1 kg).
In trees on dwarf rootstocks, as well as growing on hills and sandy soils, the root system can freeze under the absence of snow. It is especially important for them that the soil is loose, so it freezes less. A good protection for the roots will be to cover them with humus, foliage, peat.
November
In November, to prevent the washing off of the upper fertile soil layer, furrows are made across the existing slope.
On wind-blown areas, shields and other improvised means for snow retention are placed.
Before the onset of severe frosts, cuttings are prepared for winter and spring grafting. By mid-November, the main gardening work is completed.
If the soil was not dug up in October, it is better to do it now - in good weather. Before the snow falls, they finish whitewashing the boles and the bases of the skeletal branches. Young trees are tied for the winter. The soil of the shrubs is mulched with peat.
December
The first month of winter is characterized by particularly unstable weather - frosts are often replaced by deep thaws. Snow then falls, then completely melts, after which a sharp cold snap often sets in. In order to prevent complete melting of snow, one must strive to accumulate it on the site. When snow falls, shrubs huddle it, shovel it under the trees.
If the cuttings were not planted in the fall, then at the beginning of December, before the onset of severe frosts, they are cut and stored. In this case, planting is carried out in early spring.
