Conditions for growing pelargonium zonal at home. Pelargonium "Angels" - Angel pelargoniums

Pelargonium zonal, well known to every flower lover, is often not quite correctly called geranium. This decorative culture has been one of the first places in the world industrial floriculture for many years.

To date, the genus Pelargonium has about 280 species. Basically, these species grow in various parts of South Africa. The most famous of them is zonal or garden pelargonium. This complex hybrid was obtained as a result of numerous crosses, in which almost 200 species participated.

Pelargonium zonal - perennial culture, in open ground in our latitudes is used as annual, in rooms it can grow and develop over many years.

In the garden pelargoniums are planted not only in flower beds, but also in hanging containers along with fuchsias, lobelias and other crops. They grow and develop well in portable outdoor containers.

From the very beginning of its cultivation, zonal pelargonium attracted attention with its abundant and spectacular flowering. As a result of the work of breeders, a huge number of various shapes and colors were obtained (tall and dwarf species, plain and variegated, simple and double flowers).

Now this culture still retains its leading position in the world's industrial floriculture. Recently, new varieties and hybrids of pelargonium have appeared, which are distinguished by their special endurance.

About new varieties of pelargonium

The modern assortment of this culture amazes with a huge number of varieties and hybrids.

To obtain healthy plants that retain all varietal characteristics, special firms use in vitro propagation (from a piece of tissue).

A large surge of attention to pelargonium occurred after the creation hybrids that reproduce by seeds. Such specimens are distinguished by excellent evenness (that is, they have the same size, develop the same way and bloom at the same time).

Different varieties and hybrids of pelargonium differ from each other in the size of the flower and the entire inflorescence, the height of the plant, as well as the number of simultaneously flowering inflorescences.

tall pelargoniums have large inflorescences and flowers that bloom quite late. The number of inflorescences in such plants is not very large. Low growing varieties and hybrids This culture with small inflorescences attracts attention with early and lush flowering.

It is worth recalling the Goldsmith pelargoniums. Many lovers of this plant are already familiar with her series "Maverick", "Elite", "Orbit". These series of plants can be perfectly grown from seed.

Reproduction of pelargonium zonal

Pelargonium zonal propagates by seeds and cuttings. Both of these methods have their advantages.

Pelargonium grown from seeds, are more compact and better resist various adverse factors and diseases. These hybrids in flower arrangements are planted in well-lit places. They retain their evenness and beautiful appearance until the fall, and also tolerate small frosts well.

In large flower beds for plants obtained from cuttings, require more thorough and painstaking care, as they are more sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. In addition, in such pelargoniums, flowering is reduced with the onset of cold nights.

Plants obtained from seeds, are more resistant to heat, and specimens from cuttings grow and develop better in the shade.

Growing pelargonium zonal from seeds

The seeds of zonal pelargonium have a dense leathery shell, therefore, before sowing them, it is necessary to carry out scarification:
- rub between two sheets of fine sandpaper,
- soak the seeds for 3 hours in warm water;
- another way to scarify: alternately pour boiling water over the seeds and cold water(can be repeated several times), then put in boiling water and leave for 24 hours.

Seeds can be sown without scarification, but this reduces germination and increases germination time to 1-3 months.

If you purchased seeds in the form of dragees in the store, scarification is not needed for such seeds, go straight to planting.

Sowing seeds of zonal pelargonium is carried out in December - March. The deadline is April.

Sowing seeds is carried out in a substrate consisting of a mixture of peat with coarse sand or vermiculite, or from soddy soil with the addition of peat, sand or vermiculite. Convenient to use for seeding peat tablets.

Before sowing, the substrate (peat tablets) is moistened. At the same time, it is useful to treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide to prevent black leg.

When sowing in boxes, the earth is lightly tamped, the seeds are laid out on the surface, lightly sprinkled with a substrate on top and additionally moistened with slightly warm water from a spray bottle.

Landings are placed under plastic bags, which are removed once a day for ventilation. The substrate is maintained in a wet state, but without the "swamp".

Containers with sown seeds are kept at a temperature of 20 to 24 degrees.

Dried and scarified seeds usually germinate in 7-12 days, but can take up to 3 weeks to germinate.

Seedlings are sprayed daily with water room temperature, monitor sufficient soil moisture, carry out preventive maintenance once a week fungal diseases(watering with potassium permanganate or fungicide).

In the phase of 3 true leaves, seedlings can be picked. When picking, soil is also cultivated against the black leg. Subsequently, you need to spend another 1-2 watering with potassium permanganate (fungicide).

To form lush bushes over the 6th leaf, the plants are pinched.

Before planting in the garden (at least 2-3, preferably 10-14 days), you need to harden the seedlings. To do this, it is transferred to the street for a while (first to a covered loggia, if available). The air temperature should not be lower than 10-12 degrees. The first time the “walk” takes 2 hours (in partial shade), then the time is increased and the plants are gradually accustomed to the sun.

Video about picking pelargonium seedlings:

Reproduction by cuttings

Pelargonium cuttings can be planted from January to April. It is convenient to combine this procedure with spring pruning.

Cuttings are cut from existing plants, each cutting should have 2-3 internodes (pairs of leaves).
It is preferable to use apical cuttings. They root better.
The lower cut is made oblique, the upper cut is straight (for stem cuttings).
The resulting cuttings are kept for 2-3 hours in the air in the shade so that the sections dry out.
Placed for rooting in water or a light substrate (coarse sand, peat, vermiculite).
When planting, the substrate must be shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (prophylaxis of the black leg).
Landings are placed in a bright place at a temperature of 20 to 24 degrees.
Rooting occurs within 3 weeks. After that, the cuttings are planted in separate containers and placed in a well-lit place so that the plants do not stretch.

In mid-May, plants can be planted in a permanent place in the garden.

Video about the propagation of pelargonium zonal cuttings:

Planting pelargonium zonal

Pelargonium can be used for planting in flower beds, in mixborders and borders. It is perfect for hanging containers, portable containers, balcony boxes and a variety of large pots, stone and concrete flower beds.

V open ground pelargonium is planted in seedlings. Seedlings are grown as described in the propagation section.

Location selection

Like all geranium crops, pelargonium loves an abundance of light and grows well in areas of the garden that are open to the sun's rays. When cultivating pelargonium in places that are slightly shaded, the splendor of flowering decreases, but the size of the flower becomes larger.

Soil preparation

This culture develops best on loose, breathable, nutritious soils with neutral acidity (pH 5.8-6.2). In addition, fertilizer with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus must be added to the ground. You need to dissolve it little by little over a long time.

Before planting, the soil in flowerbeds and rabatkas must be dug up to a depth of 25 to 30 cm, then carefully leveled with a rake.

Landing dates

Zonal pelargonium is planted in flower beds or on a garden bed only after May 15, and it can be taken out to a closed balcony or loggia a few weeks earlier, but be sure to take care of frost protection.

Landing technology

Ready seedlings are planted in flower beds so that the distance between plants in a row and between rows is 20 or 25 cm, depending on the height and width of the bush. In portable containers and hanging planters, plants are planted close enough, but be sure to ensure that they do not touch each other with leaves.

When planting, pelargonium is placed 2-3 cm deeper than it grew in seedling pots. This helps the formation of new additional roots in young plants.

It is advisable to pinch elongated specimens when disembarking. Such an agricultural technique will slightly delay the appearance of flowers, but the bushes will quickly get stronger and their summer flowering will be more lush.

Agricultural rules

Watering

Since zonal pelargonium belongs to drought-resistant crops, when planting outside, only young specimens need regular watering (until the moment when they begin to grow intensively). Watering is also required for adult pelargoniums if the weather is hot and dry for a long time and if the leaves begin to fade near the bushes.

In portable containers and hanging planters, plants are also watered regularly throughout the growing season, but the top layer of soil (3-5 cm) must dry out between waterings.

top dressing

In order for pelargonium to develop well and bloom luxuriantly, it needs top dressing. mineral fertilizers with nitrogen and potassium. Moreover, nitrogen should be less than potassium. This proportion of macronutrients in top dressing keeps the plant in the best shape.

Pelargoniums, which are grown in containers, are fed under the root and along the leaves (foliar feeding).

It is worth knowing that when fertilizing under the root with fertilizers, the acidity of the soil increases, and a decrease in pH below 5.7 provokes diseases in adult plants and seedlings.

Pelargoniums planted in flowerbeds and rabatka are fed every 10-12 days from the time of planting until mid-August. And plants located in hanging containers and boxes on balconies or loggias are fed at weekly intervals. At the same time, foliar and root top dressing alternate.

Pruning inflorescences

To maintain the beautiful appearance of plants growing in portable containers and concrete flower beds, dried inflorescences and yellowed leaves must be cut off.

Also, inflorescences (including those that have not faded) should also be removed from pelargoniums growing in flower beds if the weather is cool with precipitation for a long time, since in such humid conditions the inflorescences can become ill with gray rot. From inflorescences, the disease quickly passes to shoots and leaves, especially if the bushes were fed with large doses of nitrogen.

Pelargonium zonal in autumn and winter

The flowering of this crop continues in the fall, as pelargonium can easily tolerate small frosts (-3 degrees Celsius). To prolong flowering, plants can be planted from a flower bed into a container and brought into the room. If, when transplanting a bush, a large clod of earth with roots is preserved, then flowering will not be interrupted for a single day. On a well-lit window, pelargonium will continue to bloom for another two to three months.

After its completion, the containers with plants are moved to a bright room with a temperature of 10-12 degrees. If this is not possible, then cut the shoots and limit watering. With the beginning of spring, pelargonium is transplanted into fresh and nutritious soil, the stems are greatly shortened, placed on a bright window and watering is increased. As soon as the shoots move away, they begin to fertilize with fertilizers with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

This flower is called differently: some derogatoryly-disparagingly call it geranium, others respectfully-respectfully call it pelargonium. Although the latter are right. The fact is that the taxonomy of plants is a rather complicated matter, and there have been disagreements regarding pelargonium for a long time.

This indoor plant belongs to the extensive geranium family, which includes many plants, among which representatives of the genus "geranium" - "geranium" are very common, only these flowers are not grown in rooms. Another name for real geranium is crail, and this flower grows in our meadows and fields, some species in flower beds. Distinctive feature representatives of this genus - the symmetrical structure of the flower. But representatives of another genus of the geranium family - pelargonium (pelargonium) grow exclusively in southern countries and in our strip are mostly grown as a houseplant. Pelargoniums are distinguished by an asymmetrical flower structure: their two upper and three lower petals have different sizes and shapes. So, according to the scientific classification, the grandmother's flower growing on the windowsill is pelargonium. Although until now, even in very authoritative sources, they sometimes continue to be called geraniums. The most important thing, however, is that we understand what is at stake.

It is interesting that some flower growers consider old long-known types of pelargoniums (for example, zonal) as geraniums, while only the most spectacular representatives of the genus are classified as pelargoniums. However, do not laugh: even some very well-known foreign sites use such a classification.

So, we agreed: the heat-loving plants growing on our windowsills are pelargoniums, and the winter-hardy crails are geraniums. But this is not the only difficulty. It turns out that in the genus Pelargonium there are a huge number of species and varieties. It would probably take a whole book to list and describe them all.

First of all, it is well-known and beloved, the most common and popular pelargonium zonal. It is so named for a special stripe on the leaves - a dark zone that is present in most varieties. Zonal pelargonium has almost round notched leaves. Probably everyone is well aware of the characteristic smell of this plant, which is even used to repel insects. Some people like this smell, but still the majority treats it without much enthusiasm. Perhaps the smell is one of the few disadvantages of the plant.

The correct name for this houseplant is pelargonium. Geranium is a plant related to pelargonium, cold-resistant and widely grown in middle lane both in meadows and flower beds.

Zonal pelargoniums have settled on our windows since time immemorial. I still remember one amazing beautiful balcony, on which a huge variety of multi-colored pelargoniums grew. When they bloomed, they looked like lush roses from afar. Yes, zonal pelargonium is now often grown in boxes, planting several cuttings nearby, although this method cannot be called ideal. Pelargonium does not like crowded content, especially because with such growth, plants are easily infected from each other with various diseases. Nevertheless, even in the distant times of our childhood, when we knew nothing about new varieties and could not exchange plants over the Internet, the color of zonal pelargonium flowers was very diverse: from bright red to pink, salmon and white. If someone thinks that this is an uninteresting, out-of-fashion grandmother's flower, he will be very surprised when he finds out how many different varieties of this plant have been bred recently. They differ not only in color, but also in the shape of the inflorescences, as well as the color of the leaves.

A variety of zonal pelargonium stellars has a special leaf shape. It is characterized by star-shaped leaves with a variety of colors; there are, among other things, two-, three-color varieties. There are many other varieties with a variety of leaf colors. These are fancy leaf varieties that tolerate direct sunlight very well, silver leaf, the leaves of which have a white border. The tri-coloured variety is amazingly beautiful, its leaves have more than three colors in their color, and the butterfly leaf has a butterfly-like spot in the center of the leaves.

Even more you can find varieties of pelargonium with different unusual shape and flower color. Some of them resemble roses and tulips. These are the well-known rose buds (rosebuds). Their flowers have an amazing structure: a large number of petals that do not have time to open and therefore resemble roses. Other pelargoniums are called tulip flowered because their flowers really look like small, unopened tulips. Speckled flowered - differ in multi-colored spots on the petals. Even more amazing are the flowers of cactus-flowered pelargoniums. They have long and narrow petals that make them similar to cactus flowers. However, this is only a small part of the varieties of zonal pelargonium known today.

In addition, among all the varieties described above, which differ in the type of flowers and leaves, dwarf and miniature plants are distinguished. Dwarfs have a height of no more than 20 cm, they are grown in pots with a diameter of 11 cm. Miniature varieties are even smaller, their height does not exceed 12.5 cm, and the pot that suits them should not be more than 8 cm in diameter.

The second, also very common type of pelargonium - royal pelargonium. By its name, one can judge the appearance of the plant: it has amazingly beautiful large flowers of different colors. In royal pelargonium, in addition, the leaves have a different shape and a jagged edge. If zonal pelargonium is grown in flowerbeds in summer, a home plant can be planted in open ground for the warm season, then royal pelargonium grows exclusively in room conditions.

Very common and unpretentious fragrant pelargoniums. They really have a pleasant smell, which can be very diverse. This group includes a large number of species. Their main feature is that when touched, they can emit the smell of roses, lemon, peppermint. Most often, interspecific hybrids of these plants are grown among amateurs, for example, odorous pelargonium and radens pelargonium. They have beautiful carved leaves and flowers of different colors of medium size.

Another group of pelargoniums that is gaining more and more popularity are ivy-leaved pelargoniums. These are very common in Europe ampelous plants that are grown in hanging baskets. Their leaves, indeed, resemble ivy leaves, and the flower petals are narrower.

Worth mentioning succulent geraniums with powerful shoots. These plants can also be grown as a bonsai tree.

Finally, angels and unique ones, well-known among connoisseurs of pelargoniums. At angels the flowers are similar to pansies: the top two are usually darker and larger than the bottom three. The flowers seem to be voluminous, turned inside out. The leaves are almost the same as those of the royal pelargonium, only smaller. At the same time, there are variegated varieties. Care for angels is almost the same as for zonal pelargoniums, although these plants were obtained as hybrids of royal and curly pelargoniums. unique, oddly enough, - a very old group of pelargoniums, known since the 19th century; these are hybrids bred on the basis of royal pelargoniums. At first, they tried to grow them as a flower bed plant, and it was not possible to achieve the flowering of a new variety. Only then, during a dry summer, the unique ones finally bloomed. The flowers of unique pelargoniums generally resemble royal pelargoniums, only smaller. These pelargoniums need bright sun.

Origin

Pelargoniums (unlike geraniums) are of southern origin, they come from Africa. This is truly a plant for all times, in Europe they began to be cultivated in the 17th century. However, pelargoniums received special distribution in the Victorian era.

In the taxonomy of pelargoniums, a certain confusion was introduced by Karl Linnaeus, known to any botanist, who united all geraniums into one genus. And only the Frenchman Ch.-L. Laritje singled out a separate genus "pelargonium". The plant got its name from the Latin word pelagros - "stork". Interestingly, already in the 19th century there were quite a few cultivars this plant. However, in the last century, their number began to grow at an astonishing rate. V last years more and more new cultivars appear, which are purchased with joy and impatience by numerous collectors. Interestingly, in the United States, homemade pelargonium is called "Lady Washington", and in the UK, all indoor plant varieties are called royal pelargonium.

My Pelargonium Story

I have been growing this flower for many years: both successfully and not very well. Remarkably beautiful zonal pelargonium plants grew on my south window. The only thing I didn't like was the need for constant pruning of the plant. I always feel sorry for throwing away cuttings, so soon the number of my pelargoniums exceeded all allowable limits. These were the most common varieties with red, white and pink flowers. I planted a lot of cuttings in a long box on the balcony, they grew wildly and bloomed with amazing intensity. We had to distribute cuttings to whomever we could. There was absolutely no problem with the plant other than its incredible desire to grow and spread.

The passion for pelargonium ended as soon as I changed my apartment. On the dark eastern windows of the new house, the appearance of the plant was, to put it mildly, depressing. Pelargonium grew quite well and even bloomed, but the number of inflorescences was 5 times less than what I was used to. And the most unpleasant thing is that by the middle of summer all the plants sported an ugly bare stem and a small bunch of leaves at the top. It was not possible to force the plant to take a compact form. Constant pruning led to the fact that flower buds did not have time to be laid, flowering almost stopped. In general, pelargonium is not a plant for dark rooms. And if you have a lot of light, it will give you unforgettable joy with its incessant flowering and magnificent appearance.

At work, they gave me a process of fragrant pelargonium. To be honest, I do not know exactly its species name. My window faced north there, so the plant also stretched a lot, I cut it off, it stretched again. True, it still bloomed a couple of times, but you can call it beautiful with a big stretch.

Bloom

Although there are a large number of pelargoniums valued for their beautiful leaves, flowering is still the main advantage of this plant. Pelargonium blooms a lot and for a long time, almost from spring to late autumn. The color and shape of flowers is different and depends on the type and variety.

Lighting

Bright lighting is very important for all varieties and types of pelargonium. Although many books on indoor floriculture, especially old ones, talk about the shade tolerance of pelargonium, this is fundamentally wrong. On the northern windows, the plant will not die, but its appearance will be more than deplorable. It is unlikely that you will be satisfied with the lack of flowering, thin, weak, bare stems at the bottom, small pale leaves. On the east and west window, pelargonium will grow and bloom, but the most beautiful, compact form and regular flowering can only be obtained on the south window. Pelargoniums require at least 4-8 hours of direct sun per day. Keeping on a south window or in a garden in the sun is essential for the flowering of royal pelargoniums. True, on the hottest days it will not be superfluous to shade the plant. Too bright sun is especially dangerous for ivy pelargoniums. It can cause yellow spots on their leaves.

To form a compact form in winter, you can use additional illumination of plants by placing lamps at a height of 8-10 cm above them.

Proper watering can also be called one of the fundamental factors in the care of pelargoniums. On the one hand, plants really do not like overdrying, in which case their leaves quickly droop and turn yellow. However, excessive moisture is also unfavorable for pelargoniums, especially in cold winters. It is best to water infrequently when the topsoil dries out, but plentifully. In winter, pelargoniums are watered rarely and little by little, about once every 2 weeks, and it is better to water in the morning so that the soil has time to dry out a little by evening. Excessive watering most often leads to rotting of the root system and death of the plant.

Waterlogging is extremely dangerous for miniature varieties of pelargoniums, the root system of which rots very quickly when waterlogged.

Fertilizer

Like most flowering plants, pelargoniums require complex fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. The relative proportion of nitrogen should be low, because. otherwise, the plant will start growing and stop blooming. Dwarf and miniature pelargoniums will begin to produce huge leaves. On the contrary, a lack of nutrients will slow growth and lead to leaf chlorosis. The optimal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 9:18:11. It is better to use fertilizers in chelated form. Either special top dressing for pelargoniums or tomatoes, or Kemira-lux fertilizer, will do. Of course, it is worth fertilizing no earlier than 1.5 months after plant transplantation. In addition, it is better to use a very dilute fertilizer, but apply it more often.

In winter, they fertilize about once a month, diluting the mineral complex 4 times. Miniature and dwarf varieties do not fertilize at all. For pelargoniums, along with top dressing, spraying with zircon is useful (4 drops per glass of water).

When caring for pelargonium, it is very important to remove wilted flowers and dried leaves in a timely manner in order to avoid the appearance and spread of various fungal infections.

Humidity

Pelargonium is one of the few plants that does not need high humidity and regular spraying. However, in winter, pelargoniums extremely poorly tolerate dry air from radiators. Therefore, it is better to place the pots in pallets with wet expanded clay.

Temperature

Different types of pelargonium have slightly different requirements for temperature regime, however, all indoor representatives of geraniums are thermophilic, they are unlikely to be able to tolerate temperatures below +8 0 С. Pelargonium zonal in summer, it will prefer a daytime temperature of + 20-23 0 C, and at night - a lower one - + 13-15 0 C. However, in the heat, the flowering of pelargonium weakens: at temperatures above +30 0 C, zonal pelargonium will stop blooming.

In winter, the temperature of the content of pelargoniums can be + 18-20 0 C during the day and + 12-13 0 C at night. It is very important to protect plants from drafts and dry air from batteries. Leaves should not touch cold glass.

Of fundamental importance for flowering and normal growth is the temperature of the winter content for royal pelargoniums. Some reference books on floriculture even say that these plants bloom only once in an apartment, after which the plant can be thrown away. The fact is that for flowering and the formation of a compact form of royal pelargonium, along with bright light, a cool winter content at a temperature of + 8-10 0 C is required. It is best if these plants remain in the winter on a warmed loggia, where they can withstand temperatures even +4 0 C (of course, the plant should be watered at such temperatures very carefully). In the event that it is not possible to ensure a cool wintering of royal pelargonium, the way out will be to gradually take the plant to the balcony in the spring, when the temperature there reaches about + 8-10 0 C. Of course, the plant must be slowly accustomed to low temperatures, leaving it on the balcony at first for 2-3 hours, gradually increasing the time spent in the cold (otherwise, the leaves of the plant may turn yellow en masse). In this case, the pelargonium will surely bloom, but a little later: not in February, but in the middle of summer. One way or another, some flower growers claim that they manage to achieve flowering of the plant, even without a cold dormant period, but there is no full guarantee of flowering with a warm year-round maintenance of the plant. However, there is good news: some varieties of royal geraniums, such as "Sally Monroe ( Sally Munro)" do not require a dormant period for flowering.

Because in winter, with insufficient lighting, pelargoniums tend to stretch out, sometimes they are forced to enter a state of rest. For example, plants can be taken out of pots, shake off the ground and hang in bunches at a temperature of +3-8 0 C. Sometimes it is still necessary to lower the roots into the water in order to avoid complete drying of the plants. In the spring, the plants are shortened by a third and planted.

It is possible to shorten the plants by half before the onset of winter dormancy (and zonal pelargoniums even by 2/3), cut the roots, plant the plants in pots and keep them in pots all winter. cool place(during the winter, yellowed leaves are removed and check that the plant does not rot and the soil does not dry out).

substrate

The soil for pelargoniums should not be too humus, because. in this case, the vegetative mass will begin to develop intensively: shoots and leaves, and flowering will be weak. It is preferable to choose a loose, breathable substrate, consisting, for example, of equal parts of humus, leafy, soddy soil and sand. You can use a mixture of peat, perlite, sand and loamy soil (pH 6.5). You can use sand-rich cactus soil to which vermiculite is added (half a cup per liter). To two parts of this mixture, it is desirable to add one part of the peat mixture. Charcoal can be added to the soil mixture to prevent rotting, especially if there is a tendency to constantly flood the plants.

Transfer

Pelargoniums are transplanted when their overgrown roots appear through the drainage hole. Transplantation can be carried out during the entire growing season, i.e. from spring to autumn, sometimes you have to replant plants even 2 times a year. When transplanting young pelargoniums, the diameter of the pot is increased by no more than 1.5 cm; when transplanting adult plants, it is not necessary to increase the size of the pot, you just need to change the soil substrate. It is very important not to use large pots for dwarf and miniature varieties, as in a pot that is too large, the probability of rotting of their root systems is very high. It is better to choose clay pots for pelargonium, because. in them root systems they breathe better, but it is worth considering that the soil will dry out faster in them.

Formation

Correct formation pelargonium is one of the main difficulties in caring for them. It’s worth remembering right away that if you don’t form a plant, then soon they will either turn into ugly elongated sticks with rare flowers, or, even worse, various diseases can develop in the absence of sufficient air exchange and light. On the other hand, pruning and pinching delay flowering, because. the laying of a flower bud lasts about 3 months.

Zonal pelargoniums should be cut most radically, especially in autumn, because. they are the fastest growing. Angels tend to form more or less compact bushes.

Royal pelargoniums are usually pruned at the end of the season. The last pinching must be done no later than August-September, so that young shoots have time to form. First of all, cut too elongated shoots, as well as branches that grow inside the crown. Royal Pelargoniums should not be shortened too much; in general, this species does not need radical pruning.

For trimming, use a sharp blade, which must first be disinfected.

Difficulties

Among the pests of pelargonium, the most insidious is the whitefly, which most often affects the plant. If the lesion is not very strong, wash the plant well enough, treat with soap and cover with a bag for several days. If the number of pests is very high, it is necessary to water the plant at least three times with actara with an interval of 6-7 days.

Pelargoniums can also suffer from spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids.

Another formidable disease that cannot be fought is the black leg. Most often it affects cuttings and young plants. Its cause may be a heavy waterlogged substrate, low temperature, too large a pot. Saving the plant is almost impossible.

Another problem is fungal infections and mold. The symptom is yellowing of the leaves and a grayish coating on them, brown spots. The plant must be immediately treated with a fungicide.

If white circles appear on the leaves, and a brown powdery coating underneath, this is a symptom of rust.

Stretching of the plant, weak flowering and rapid exposure of the lower part of the trunk is a sign of a lack of light. The lack of flowering and a large number of large leaves is the result of an excess of fertilizers. Yellowing of the lower leaves can be a symptom of insufficient watering. The leaves can dry out at too high a temperature.

reproduction

The most common and easiest method of propagation is cuttings. It is this method that allows you to save the varietal characteristics of the plant. If the plant is very stretched, its constant renewal from cuttings may be the only way to keep it. Cuttings are harvested in March-April or August-September (for plant renewal), although the rooting of pelargonium goes well throughout the year.

For ordinary pelargoniums, the cutting length should be 7-15 cm, while for dwarf and miniature varieties, the cuttings can be only 2 cm (it is quite difficult to cut them). The cuttings are cut across the stem with a sharp blade under the leaf node, 0.5 cm lower. Peduncles are removed (although sometimes it happens that even a pelargonium stalk blooms, but it is better not to allow this, otherwise the stalk will spend a lot of energy on flowering, and they will not be left to form roots and green mass. Cuttings of royal pelargoniums after flowering will not take root at all). Too much large leaves can be cut in half to reduce evaporation. The cut can be dried and treated with root if the cuttings are weak or taken from weakened plants (but this is not necessary). Cut off the bottom sheet.

In most cases, zonal pelargonium cuttings root perfectly in water. However, it is better to plant them in a substrate of peat and perlite. It should be damp, but in no case wet, because. the main reason for the death of the cutting is that the black leg occurs in a too wet and heavy substrate, in the cold. It is best to use a transparent glass to monitor the development of the roots. The next time you need to water the stalk in about 1-2 days. Rooting is preferably carried out in diffused light conditions. For zonal pelargoniums, it is better to maintain a temperature of about + 20-25 0 C, rooting lasts about 2 weeks. For rooting angels, ivy and royal pelargoniums, the optimum temperature is +18 0 C, it is better not to root them in water. Royal pelargoniums can take root up to three months. After the formation of the roots, young plants are placed in conditions of brighter light. If the cutting was rooted in August-September, it will bloom in spring, and with normal maintenance even in winter.

Pelargonium can be propagated by seeds. They must first be prepared by placing them in a wet paper towel. If the seed has a thick skin, it can be gently rubbed with fine sandpaper. However, commercially available seeds usually do not have a thick shell.

Seeds are sown in a wet mixture of peat and perlite (1:10). Seeds should be lightly sprinkled with soil mixture (about 3 mm), cover the bowls with seeds with glass or plastic wrap. Germinate seeds at a temperature of +21-23 0 C. As a rule, germination lasts up to two weeks. After the emergence of seedlings, the glass is removed, and the bowl is placed in conditions of diffused lighting. Watering is slightly reduced. After the appearance of 2-3 leaves, the seedlings dive. For the normal development of plants, illumination is desirable. If very valuable varieties are germinated, in order to avoid their possible mass infection, it is better to germinate each seed in a separate pot.

Toxicity

Pelargoniums are not toxic, on the contrary, they purify the air of pathogens.

If on vacation

If you leave for 2-3 weeks, pelargonium will wait for your return. Do not overwater the plant before leaving. It is better to remove it away from the south window, cover the top layer of soil with wet expanded clay, and place the pot in wet peat.

(The article uses materials from the magazine "Home Flowers" and "My Favorite Flowers" for 2010-2013.)

These flowers have been living on our windowsills for centuries. We habitually call them geraniums, although in reality they are pelargoniums. A relative of field geraniums, together with her she belongs to the same family - Geraniaceae. Pelargonium care at home is simple, and a huge variety of varieties will allow everyone to choose a plant to their taste.

The genus Pelargonium is numerous and includes about 250 species. But not all of them are introduced into the culture. Through the efforts of flower growers, many magnificent varieties of this flower have been created. Similar features make it possible to distinguish its following groups.

Pelargonium is zonal.

This most numerous group includes about 1000 varieties. The plant is unpretentious. When grown outdoors in countries with a warm climate, it resembles a tree, reaching a height of several meters. In room culture, the dimensions are much more modest, but some specimens reach a height of 1 meter. There are absolutely crumbs no higher than 12.5 cm - such zonal pelargonium called miniature. All varieties of this group are united by one common feature: ringlets on the leaves, which can be bright and contrasting or barely noticeable. The color palette of inflorescences is very diverse - all shades of red and pink, white, cream and yellow. There are varieties whose petals are painted in several shades of the same or different colors. The varieties of this group are so diverse that within it there is a division according to the strength of growth, the number of petals and the shape of the inflorescence. Variegated varieties are distinguished separately.

Rosebuds or rosebud pelargoniums. Sometimes they are also called rosaceous - the numerous petals of double flowers twisted towards the center really resemble miniature roses. Varieties of rosebud pelargonium: Scarlet Rambler, Australian Pink Rambler.
In star-shaped pelargoniums, the flowers resemble stars, and the leaves are strongly dissected and look like an open human palm with spread fingers. Popular varieties are Faye Brawner and Robyn Hannah.
In clove-shaped pelargoniums, the edges of the petals have teeth like carnation flowers. The most interesting varieties: Pat Hannam Graffity, Violet.
Cactus pelargoniums with their disheveled flowers resemble cactus dahlias. Noteworthy varieties are Ardwick Cinnamon and Bevis.
In tulip-shaped pelargoniums, represented by three dozen hybrid varieties, the flowers look like small tulip buds that do not fully open. The most unusual and original varieties are Happy Birthday and Lovely, Popcorn.
Very attractive terry Salmon Komtess, Appleblossom, Edwards Embers, Langelands, Brixworth-Rosebud and miniature so-called "Deacons": Moonlight, Birthday, Finale.

Pelargonium royal.

They called it so for demanding conditions of detention, and not for large flowers, sometimes called large-flowered. It has several hundred varieties with a variety of colors. In some of them, the size of the flower reaches 8 cm in diameter. They are never monochromatic and there are always contrasting spots or stripes on the petals. The leaves of the royal pelargonium are slightly corrugated, have pointed edges. Beautiful Mandarin, Strawberry cream, Candy Flowers Peach Cloud.

Among the royal pelargoniums, a variety called "Angel" stands apart. Some flower growers distinguish them into a separate group. Its peculiarity is large flowers, similar to pansies, with small bush sizes - only about 30 cm. This species is less capricious than royal pelargonium - plants bloom well even in the shade and do not require formation, keeping neat bushes on their own. The most interesting varieties are Spanish Angel, Darmsderm, Sardunya, Henry Weller.

Pelargonium ivy.

Its leaves are similar to ivy leaves and do not have pubescence, and long flexible shoots hang down in cascades, for which it is often called ampelous pelargonium. Indeed, this flower looks most advantageous when planted in a flowerpot. Among ampelous pelargoniums there are varieties with variegated leaves, and the color of the flowers varies from purple to red. Interesting varieties: Tomcat, Jester Red/Wite, Aristo Black Beauty.

Pelargonium fragrant.

This species is not bred for its flowers, which are generally small and rather nondescript. The main advantage of this group is fragrant leaves with the smell of various fruits, flowers and spices: nutmeg, verbena, apple, pineapple, peach, lemon. If you touch the leaf, it releases essential oils, which this plant is so rich in, and they cause a strong smell. The following varieties can be found in the room: Chocolate Mint smells like mint, Attar of Roses smells like rose, and Cy's Sunburst smells like lemon. The leaves of the latter variety are strongly corrugated and have a golden border, which makes it very decorative.

Pelargonium: growing features

Each type of this plant has its own characteristics in the care. But there are also patterns that are common to all flowers of this genus. Geranium vegetation is subject to the change of seasons and care in each season for a flower will be different.

Home Care

The homeland of most pelargoniums is the savannas of South Africa. Hence the love of the sun, and the ability to endure the lack of moisture. Prolonged cultivation in room culture did little to change the habits of the plant.

Ground requirement

Properly selected soil will ensure the good development of the plant and its abundant flowering.

What should it be?

loose, it is good to pass air and water, and also to hold it;
light in texture with the inclusion of sand, moss or perlite;
the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic;
pelargonium suitable nutrient soil, but without excess nitrogen, which will cause the growth of leaves, not flowers.

For a beginner grower, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made soil mixture specifically for pelargoniums. Connoisseurs make up the soil on their own. There are several planting mix options.

ready soil - 10 parts;
crushed sphagnum moss - 1 part;
sand - 1 part;
humus 0.5 parts.

Or this: a mixture of humus, leaf and sod land, peat and sand, taken in equal parts.

Temperature, humidity and lighting

During the period of active vegetation and flowering (from March to September), the temperature comfortable for pelargonium is from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. During the period of forced rest, it is lower - from 12 to 15 degrees. The plant loves fresh air, but it does not like a draft, and royal pelargonium is especially sensitive to it.

The flower does not need high humidity. It is enough if it is within 50%. These plants do not need spraying - pubescent leaves do not tolerate water drops.

All types of pelargonium love light. But they need different lighting. If even the midday sun is suitable for ivy-like ones, then it is better to shade the royal and zonal ones during these hours. But for this plant, an excess of sun is less destructive than a lack, therefore, with poor lighting, flowering weakens, the color intensity of the leaves decreases.

In any light, the pelargonium pot needs to be rotated slightly clockwise every few days so that the plant is symmetrical.

Watering the plant

This plant is better under-watered than over-watered. It will easily endure a slight drought, and overflow is fraught with rotting of the root, root collar and the appearance of gray mold. Pelargonium is time to water if the topsoil in the pot is dry. In summer, this is done more often, depending on the air temperature, while in winter, watering should be rare, and their amount depends on the lighting. With a long daylight hours and intense lighting, water the plant more often. Water for him needs soft, having room temperature.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Intense flowering requires good nutrition. But this flower does not tolerate organic fertilizers. Suitable fertilizer mixtures for flowering plants or special fertilizer for geraniums "Pelargovit". Before flowering or at the beginning of it, additional feeding with phosphorus and potash fertilizers will be required. During the period of forced dormancy, additional nutrition is not required for plants.

Pruning and transplant

If from drainage hole roots appeared in the pot - it's time to transplant geraniums. This usually happens once every 2 years.

How to transplant a plant?

Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. Too spacious a container will cause rapid leaf growth, and flowering may not occur until it is completely filled with roots.
At the bottom of the pot with a large hole for water drainage, drainage from expanded clay, brick fragments and pieces of old pots is placed.
The plant in the old pot is watered, taken out, carefully separated from the walls and without destroying the earthen clod.
Pour a little damp earth into a new container, place a flower and fill the voids along the walls of the pot with moist earth, too.
Next watering in 3 days.

Pelargonium pruning is an integral part of care. During the winter, the flower is strongly stretched, the stems are exposed. In the spring, to give it a beautiful shape and stimulate the growth of new flowering shoots, the stems are cut, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each. All sections are treated with fungicide, colloidal sulfur or crushed coal. During the summer, dried leaves, faded flowers are removed and, if necessary, shoots are pinched for better tillering.

Geranium care in autumn, preparation for winter

In order for the plant to rest, conditions are created for it to be in a state of forced rest: the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees, top dressing is canceled or made rare. Watering at this time is best done through the pan, leaving the top of the soil in the pot dry. But the lighting for the plant can not be reduced. If it is not possible to greatly lower the temperature, the geranium needs to be illuminated.

Reproduction of pelargonium

It is very easy to propagate this flower. Cuttings taken from plants root well. For non-hybrid varieties, seed propagation is also used.

cuttings

The easiest way to get a new plant. Pelargonium is short-lived, after 4-5 years the plant degenerates and it has to be replaced with a new one grown from a cutting. They can be taken during the entire period of active growth and flowering, but it is easier to combine this procedure with spring pruning - there will be enough material to select good cuttings. For ordinary varieties, the cutting length is from 5 to 7 cm, for dwarf and miniature varieties - only 2-3 cm.

How to root them?

We make a lower oblique cut.
Remove the 2 lower leaves with stipules.
Let the cutting dry a little.
Immerse the cut in a root stimulator powder.
We sterilize the soil for planting and pour it into a small container.
We plant the stalk in moist soil.

The rooting process lasts from 2 to 4 weeks. A rooted plant is planted in a permanent place.

Seeding algorithm:

we sow in loose moistened soil, spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, to a depth of about 2 cm;
cover the container with glass or put a plastic bag on it, put it in a warm place;
do not forget to ventilate the crops and moisten them with a spray bottle;
as soon as shoots have appeared, we remove the shelter;
water as needed;
We plant in pots after the formation of 2 true leaves.

By dividing the bush

This method is used if the bush has grown strongly. Usually it is combined with a plant transplant. The pelargonium taken out of the pot is carefully divided into parts, keeping a growth point and part of the roots on each. All damage is sprinkled with crushed coal or colloidal sulfur. Divided plants are planted in separate pots.

Disease and pest control

When the soil is waterlogged, gray mold may appear - a gray coating on the leaves. All diseased leaves are removed, the plant is dried and treated with a fungicide.

When root rot or root collar rot appears, no measures will help - the plant will die.

Sometimes there are others in pelargonium fungal diseases: verticillium wilt and rust. From all fungal diseases, preventive treatments with fungicides before wintering are effective.

If geranium is affected by whitefly, mealybug, aphids and thrips, it must be treated with approved for use in indoors insecticides.

Why does the geranium turn yellow, dry, not bloom?

If the plant is in good condition, but it does not want to bloom, the possible reasons are as follows:

too spacious pot;
excessively high temperature;
excessive watering;
insufficient lighting.

The leaves begin to dry and turn yellow with a lack of moisture. And if the stem is very bare, the plant does not have enough light.

Pelargonium is a plant of the geranium family, often referred to in everyday life as geranium. This one is not quite right, but it so happened that if we are talking about an indoor flower, it is still rarely called pelargonium. Meanwhile, geranium is a plant of a different kind, which does not even intersect with pelargonium, but belongs to the same family. Real geranium is an outdoor, perennial, cold-resistant plant. In room conditions, various types and varieties of pelargonium have been growing for a long time. This is a very decorative houseplant that has undergone significant changes, thanks to the efforts of breeders, and has become even more beautiful.

Pelargonium is an easy flower to grow. Modern hybrids have adaptation properties and rare ones have special requirements for growing conditions. These plants are often on sale, and amateur flower growers also distribute surpluses of their collections. The cost of the flower is affordable.

Landing

Optimal time

On sale, pelargoniums appear in large numbers in the spring in the form of adult plants covered with buds and flowers. It is at this time that they appear in the house.

Landing method

In this form, it is not desirable to change the land in them, the transport soil, a little tucked on the farm nutrients, must be left on the roots. Therefore, planting implies at this time transshipment into another pot, with the addition of soil, if necessary, along the edges of the container. And one more thing: very often Dutch pets are planted in the ground without drainage, when buying from the bottom holes, overgrown roots are already visible. This encourages new plant owners to opt for a much larger pot. But this is wrong.

The pot is selected 1 - 3 cm larger in diameter and the same depth. Drainage is added to the bottom, covered with soil, the plant is removed from the transport pot and placed in a new one. The gaps are filled with earth, the plant is watered. Everything, the planting is done. It is better to put it in a cool and not brightly lit place for some time to adapt to new conditions.

substrate

For growing pelargoniums, ready-made universal soil, not particularly rich in organic matter, is quite suitable. Otherwise, too nutritious soil will contribute to the rapid development of foliage at the expense of flowering.

Care

Place and light

Pelargoniums love fairly bright lighting, but they prefer east or west to the south window in summer. In winter, they grow well on the south side. Many respond well to light shading during flowering - in this case, the corollas of flowers turn out to be more saturated in color, and the flowering itself lasts longer.

In winter, in the absence of a dormant period, it is necessary to provide very good lighting.

Air humidity

The plant does not require high humidity and spraying. The leaves of pelargoniums are arranged in such a way that the evaporation of moisture occurs very sparingly, and they do not suffer from the dryness of the surrounding air. After hygienic water procedures, the flower should not be exposed wet in the sun, it is necessary to wait for the leaves to dry completely in the shade.

Temperature

Pelargoniums are able to grow and develop well in summer at elevated temperatures, however, at moderate temperatures, the inflorescences on the plant last longer. That is why autumn bloom it is usually more lush and long-lasting than the summer season.

A cool habitat is also beneficial in winter, but this is not an absolute requirement: most modern hybrids grow and bloom well. all year round without temperature drop.

Watering

Pelargoniums do not like excessive watering. They require abundant, but not frequent soil moisture. Between irrigations, the soil should dry out quite strongly. In winter, at low temperatures, this is especially important - excess moisture can destroy the plant.

top dressing

Fertilizers are rarely used. After spring transplantation and summer flowering, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is possible, but in no case with nitrogen. In winter, pelargoniums are not fed, no matter how they are kept at this time.

pruning

By spring, especially during a warm winter, the plant is very elongated, it becomes "ankle-legged", because. lower leaves fall, internodes increase. To increase the decorativeness of the bush, the branches are shortened.

Trimming method

No matter how the pelargonium grows during the winter, it should be cut into a stump no more than 15 cm high. This will help awaken dormant buds, which will give rise to new branches. The plant will be thick and strong.

The cut parts are divided into cuttings and used for propagation.

Transfer

In the spring, the plant is also transplanted. These procedures are convenient to combine.

Transplant method

After pruning, the stump is removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned of the old soil, straightened and cut. Having dipped the slices in charcoal, the plant is planted in a fresh earthen mixture. The pot can be used the same - the number of roots and branches has decreased, it is not required to increase the volume. The soil is well compacted, but not watered abundantly - there are still few leaves on the stump or they are absent at all, evaporation will be minimal. The first week after transplantation, pelargonium is kept in a shaded place.

reproduction

Another spring event held in the spring is breeding.

Reproduction methods

seminal: mix seeds are often on sale. They are quite suitable for organizing a collection, because. sown in early spring or at the end of winter, young plants bloom in the same summer, and then it becomes clear what color the plants appeared in the house. Usually propagated by seeds undemanding plants but none the less beautiful. Often, as a result of partial splitting of the characteristics of hybrid varieties, plants are obtained that are peculiar, of unusual color, even unique.
cuttings : after spring pruning, a large number of cut branches remain. They are cut into cuttings of 10 cm, the lower leaves are cut off, the sections are dried a little (about 1 hour) and planted in the ground or put on rooting in water in an opaque bowl.

Important: little water is poured into the container, the lower end should be immersed in it by 1 - 2 cm, no more. And it is better if it does not touch the bottom of the container.

Bloom

Pelargonium blooms profusely and for a long time every year.

Dates and flowers

From early spring to late autumn, pelargonium is in bloom. During this time, several waves of flowering pass, between which new branches grow. For some owners, these plants bloom all year round, not focusing on the season, which means that the conditions are suitable. But it’s more correct to give pelargonium 3 months of rest so that it can gain strength.

Flowers are collected in an inflorescence umbrella. The colors are the most diverse, of all shades, up to almost black, and mixed, as well as speckled.

After flowering

With the beginning of the withering of each inflorescence, it is removed, because. very quickly unnecessary fruits are formed that deplete the plant. At the end of the flowering period, in the fall, you can once feed the pelargonium with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. To stimulate new flowering in winter, you need to prune before spring. In this case, the lighting should be very good. It should be remembered, however, that any continuous flowering plant exhausted early, becomes weak and at the slightest trouble falls ill.

There are not so many types of pelargonium grown at home. But within each species there are a sufficient number of varieties, which makes the assortment of pelargoniums truly immense.

Pelargonium zonal(garden) – the most common and most cultivar species. characteristic feature- rounded leaves, with highlighted areas. This zonality is especially noticeable when growing a plant in good light.

This species gave rise to the classification of pelargoniums according to the shape of the flower:

simple: in inflorescence simple five-petal flowers, often quite large (chandeliers), numerous, creating an umbrella of impressive size, one-two-tone color, sometimes speckled, for example, Carmel;
semi-double : the flower is no longer flat, but also not terry, the color is varied, for example, Gerda;
terry : double row of petals of various colors, for example, miniature Brookside (Brookside), standard Lara;
stellate: the petals are not rounded, but sharp, narrow, simple and semi-double, the color is varied, for example, miniature Vectis (Vectis);
rosebuds (rosebud, rosebud) - flowers in the form of roses, collected in a characteristic umbrella - a very popular direction in breeding. Simple rosebuds of small size, usually red and its shades. More complex hybrids - large, diverse color combinations. Apple Blossom varieties are very decorative ( Appleblossom) , Denise, April Snow (April Snow), dwarf Odencieu ( Odensjo).
tulip-shaped : flowers in an umbrella inflorescence in the form of unopened tulips, in white-pink-red tones, for example, a series Pandora Red and Pink (Pandora Red and pink).

Pelargonium grandiflora (royal, large-flowered) - leaves are jagged, hard, flowers are not collected in an inflorescence, solitary, large, non-uniform, for example, Bravo, David. Blooms profusely, requires a dormant period in winter.

Pelargonium ivy - leaves without pubescence, similar to ivy leaves. Often ampelous or creeping. In hybrid varieties, terry and rosebud flowers are found, for example, Viva.

Pelargonium fragrant - heavily cut leaves with a pronounced aroma. Flowers inconspicuous, small, simple, white, pink or lilac, rarely yellow. The smell of vanilla, pine needles, mint, rose, lemon, for example, citrose.

Zonal and ivy-leaved pelargoniums may have an additional decorative element - variegation on the leaves (different colors)

Diseases and pests

Pelargoniums, thanks to their essential oils repel most pests. Moreover, insects in general, including mosquitoes and flies, penetrate less into the room where these plants are.

With high humidity, fungal infection can occur. If the trunk is affected, the black leg at the base, then the specimen can no longer be saved. In this case, healthy parts are cut as early as possible for the purpose of further rooting. If the flower is affected by gray rot, then the diseased leaves are removed, the plant is treated with foundationazole.

Rarely, a viral disease of pelargonium occurs. Its symptom is the appearance of concentric spots on the leaves with a yellow center, which later necrotize. The virus infects the plant as a whole, cuttings cannot be taken for propagation, the flower must be destroyed.

Note to florist

For abundant flowering, pelargonium should grow in a cramped pot. A small volume stimulates the development of flower buds and prevents the occurrence of rot - the soil dries out quickly.
Pelargoniums purify indoor air not only from dust, but also from pathogenic microbes and viruses.

Frequently asked Questions

Pelargonium lives for a long time, but after 5 years it significantly loses its decorative effect. You can grow it in the future as a bonsai, using the thickening of the trunk as a decorative element, this is now a very popular trend. But for typical development, a cutting is rooted and a new plant is grown.

Is pelargonium poisonous?

The plant is not poisonous. Some species of related geranium are eaten.

Why doesn't it bloom? Some species, such as royal pelargonium, do not bloom unless there was a drop in temperature during the dormant period in winter.

In winter, pelargonium often does not bloom, even in warm conditions.

Why do the leaves turn yellow, dry, curl?

Most often this happens in winter. The plant does not have enough light, it stretches and sheds some leaves, especially at the bottom. After spring pruning, the buds will begin to wake up on the trunk, and the plant will be covered with greenery.

If the leaves turn yellow in spots, and not at the edges, and curl at the same time, then a viral infection is possible. This is incurable, it is necessary to destroy the plant in order to prevent spread to other flowers.

Why does pelargonium not grow?

Perhaps the plant is in a dormant period. Or is it a dwarf or miniature variety that remains very compact at any age.

Why does pelargonium fade quickly?

Individual inflorescences do not live very long - 2 - 3 weeks. But the flowering of the bush as a whole lasts more than six months, because. new flowers appear. The increased air temperature and too bright light, which happens in summer on the southern windowsill, shortens the life of flowers.

How to save pelargonium in winter?

It is best to provide her with cool conditions with minimal watering. If this is not possible, then you need to keep as close to the window as possible, preferably with additional lighting in the darkest months. Water sparingly, do not fertilize. At the end of winter, prune and transplant.

Pelargonium is not in vain loved by many generations of flower growers. It brings comfort and tranquility to the house, protects and decorates the home.

The modern variety of varieties allows you to assemble a collection for every taste.

What, no matter how bright colors, will decorate a window sill, balcony or mini-flower bed? For those who are not yet an experienced gardener, it is worth choosing a plant that is easy to care for. These include pelargonium zonal care at home which requires compliance with several important nuances but overall very simple.

Pelargonium, or more commonly, geranium, is popular with flower lovers in the home. It does not require special conditions, blooms a lot and brightly, pleases with flowering for more than one year, rarely exposed to diseases and pests, lovely decoration rooms or balconies. Pelargonium zonal has such a name due to the special color of the leaves - with a characteristic rim around the edges, dividing the entire surface into two differently colored areas. Flowers may be different shapes, terry or non-terry. Coloring - white, red, purple, coral, pale pink, orange, and others. The plant grows rapidly and reaches up to 60 cm in height.

Basics of home care

Zonal pelargonium, as already mentioned, is unpretentious. The main thing you have to do is to create the necessary conditions for it. First of all, to bloom profusely pelargonium zonal care behind it requires the location of the pot in the fresh air, in warmth, in the light. Sunlight should be diffused. It will be successful to place pelargonium on the east window. You can also in the south, but be sure to shade the flower at noon, otherwise it may get burned. It is good to take out pelargonium in the garden for the whole summer.

Soil, irrigation, fertilizer

Pelargonium zonal will suit a nutrient-rich mixture. For example, this: peat, garden soil, sand (2:2:1). You can take another: humus, sod land, peat, sand, mixed in a ratio of 2:2:2:1. Pelargonium seeds can also be planted in such mixtures. Don't forget good drainage. You need to be careful with peat - if you take too much of it, the soil will be waterlogged, and this will harm our plant. For pelargonium, it will be useful to loosen the soil from time to time so that more air enters the roots.

Zonal pelargonium is watered quite abundantly during the flowering period - in spring and summer, several times a week, but by winter watering is reduced. The flower does not need to spray the leaves, because it is able to accumulate moisture itself.

Pelargonium should be fed in spring and summer, during periods of growth and flowering. Phosphorus or potash fertilizers submitted every two weeks. It is useful for a flower to alternate mineral and organic top dressing. Chicken manure is often used as an organic fertilizer.

Transplanting, pruning and important care points at home

The plant is transplanted every two years or once a year. Choose a small pot. When the zonal pelargonium reaches 25-30 cm in height, it no longer needs a transplant. If you repot it often, it can disrupt flowering. If you plant pelargonium bushes in a flower bed, the distance between them should be at least 20-25 cm.

In the spring, the pelargonium bush must be cut off - by about a third, this stimulates future flowering. In autumn, weak shoots can be cut. In early March, pelargonium can be pinched at growth points, this will give more branching. If you purchased a cutting, you need to pinch the top of it so that the bush grows beautiful.

Conditions for flowering zonal pelargonium - light and temperature above 12 degrees. In such conditions, it can bloom even in winter. However, it will be more useful to give her a rest, putting her in a cool (but not shaded!) Place. Limit watering.

In spring and summer, the flower should be protected from direct sunlight only if it is behind glass. In the fresh air, they do not harm pelargoniums. The plant is afraid of drafts.

Follow these simple tips - and you will be pleased with a blooming and healthy pelargonium zonal, care for which it will not cause difficulties.

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