How to properly prune tree branches. Pruning fruit trees in autumn

It is naive to believe that having planted a seedling of a fruit tree (even if all agricultural practices are followed), you can wait with folded hands for it to start bearing fruit. Without proper pruning, apple and pear trees will soon turn into thickened trees, overloaded with tops and competing branches, which prevent the seedling from developing, and therefore actively bearing fruit.

In the first three years after planting, the formation of crowns should be an important concern of the gardener. fruit trees... Along with pruning, this is one of the most demanding jobs in horticulture. The fate of the harvest and the further condition of the tree itself largely depends on it.

When pruning and forming the crown of apple and pear trees, one should take into account the species, varietal and individual characteristics plants as well natural conditions district.

How to properly prune apple and pear, depending on the age of the trees, is described in detail in this article.

Pruning apple and pear trees: correct formation of fruit trees

The first thing that novice gardeners need to take into account when pruning apple and pear trees is that the strength of the crown of a fruit tree is achieved primarily by the correct ratio in the strength of the development of the central conductor and the main skeletal branches (branches of the first order). The guide should significantly outstrip the skeletal branches in development.

As branches of the second order, lateral branches growing in the horizontal direction are most suitable. When pruning apple and pear trees, those branches that are directed towards the conductor or upward are cut into a ring, because they thicken the crown. Shoots developed from external buds (with outside branches) are also unsuitable as skeletal branches of the second order, because under the weight of the crop they easily sag and often break off.

To form the crown of apple trees and pears, it is necessary to correctly leave branches with angles of departure and divergence. The angle of departure is the angle between the skeletal branch and the central conductor, and the angle of divergence is the angle between two adjacent skeletal branches in the crown in a horizontal section.

To prune apples and pears correctly, remember that branches with a small angle of discharge do not give a strong connection to the trunk and easily break off under the weight of the crop. Branches with angles of departure from 40 ° to 90 ° at their base form a very strong bond with the leader due to an annular inflow in the place where the skeletal branch leaves the central conductor.

It has been established that the strength of fusion is achieved if the thickness of the branch of the first tier does not exceed half the diameter of the trunk and the angle of deflection is not less than 45 °. Therefore, when forming the crown of most varieties, branches with an angle of departure less than 40 ° are not left as skeletal branches. The best angles of departure are from 45 ° to 65 °.

The angle of departure in the crown of a skeletal branch can be changed not only by pruning: in pears and apple trees, the overgrowing branches on the main skeletal branches and the central conductor between tiers should be folded back in a leafy state at the end of June - beginning of July, when growth in thickness continues with subsequent lignification. This will make it easier to fix them at a given angle after pre-bending and holding in this position for some time. Branches with acute angle the branches are pulled to the ground, and with an angle of 90 °, on the contrary, they are pulled up, tying them to the central conductor.

At the same time, there is an opinion that the reception of a guy in order to give the branch a more inclined position is ambiguous, because in this case only the angle of inclination of the entire branch will change, but not the angle of departure from the trunk. However, when the upper lateral branch deviates and the leader is cut over it, the angle of departure from 70-80 ° changes to 0 °, and after a few years it is very difficult to find the place of removal of the old top of the trunk. It is difficult to bend thick branches. It is recommended to pre-file them slightly from the bottom before bending them.

Various schemes for pruning branches of apple and pear trees (with photo)

In order for the crown to always be transparent, the number of skeletal branches must be strictly maintained in accordance with the chosen type of crown. The branches of the second tier should be placed in the middle of the divergence angle of the branches of the first tier. The most widespread is the sparse-tiered crown.

Such a crown combines tiered and single placement of skeletal branches. The height of the trunk is standard -60-80 cm.

For the strength of the crown, it is important that, with proper pruning of apple and pear trees, there should be no less than the number of branches in the tier above each tier of single branches. The distance between adjacent tiers or between a tier and a single branch should be 40-70 cm. With strong tree growth, one single branch or a tier of two branches is laid annually. They are evenly placed in space to avoid shading of the lower branches with the upper ones, and so that the crown does not turn out to be one-sided. The uppermost skeletal branch must necessarily be single. Above it, the trunk conductor is cut out if it does not deviate to the side by this time. This is done in order to limit the height of the tree.

Some gardeners offer the following scheme for the formation of the crown of a pear tree. The entire crown should consist of 4-5 branches of the first order, and the height of the trunk is left in the range of 50-70 cm. The lower tier, as a rule, consists of two closely spaced opposite branches. The distance between the lower tier and the third skeletal branch is made about 60 cm.The rest (fourth and fifth) are placed along the trunk at intervals of 25-30 cm.

Thus, the upper branch is laid at a height of 1.8-2.2 m. After the creation of five skeletal branches of the first order in the crown, the formation of skeletal branches of the second order is allowed on the lower tier, but no more than two. They are placed no closer than 50-60 cm from the trunk and 30-40 cm from each other. They should take a lateral position along the axis of the pine branch. On all skeletal branches (both first and second orders of branching), semi-skeletal ramifications are formed with a length of 1-2 m, depending on the location in the crown and orientation.

Watch how pruning pears and apple trees is done in this video for beginner gardeners:

In some cases (for example, when a fruit tree has grown near a building) one of the sides has to be cut, and a crown is obtained when the branches are directed only to three cardinal directions.

Some gardeners are interested in apple pruning schemes, the crowns of which are formed in a flat shape (palmette). Each tier for oblique palmette is formed from two skeletal branches on opposite sides of the trunk. For the strength of the crown, the branches are removed at a distance of 5-10 cm from one another, and not from adjacent buds. Free palmette differs from oblique in that it is formed without the use of stakes and a garter of branches, but exclusively with the help of one pruning.

You can also form a vase-like crown. How to properly prune an apple tree in this case? This crown does not have a leader (central conductor). It is cut out after laying the lower tier of 3-4 skeletal branches, which take over all the functions of the trunk, The vase-shaped crown can be displayed on a stem 20-40 cm high. The vase-shaped crown differs from the leader in its lower height, ease of care and collection of fruits, their best quality ... The big advantage of vase-shaped crowns is the increased winter hardiness of the tree. The disadvantage of this scheme of forming the crown of a pear or apple tree is the lower mechanical strength compared to the leader. However, it can be easily eliminated by internal fastening branches-trunks with each other or with a ring in the center of the crown.

When pruning and forming the crown of an apple or pear, sufficient subordination of skeletal branches to the leader, large angles of departure of these branches from him, as well as large angles of divergence between branches in a tier are the main conditions for the strength of fastening parts of the crown.

In these photos, the pruning of apple and pear is presented various schemes crown formation:

Photo gallery

Crown formation when pruning young apple and pear trees: video instruction for beginners

Since during their development fruit trees change the nature and ratio of growth and fruiting processes, approaches to pruning apple and pear branches at different stages of their life should be different.

There are two main pruning methods: pruning, which removes part of a branch, and thinning, where the entire branch is removed. Shortening is carried out in cases where it is necessary to weaken any branch so that it does not develop into a strong skeletal, but turns into a semi-skeletal or overgrown. If annual growths are shortened, pruning is called regulating, and if perennial branches are called rejuvenating. When less than 1/3 of a one-year shoot is cut off, shortening is considered weak, when up to half of it is removed, it is medium, more than half is strong.

Beginners should pay special attention to pruning young apple and pear trees, because the period of the first three to five years is the most important in the formation of the crown.

In young trees, only strong annual shoots are shortened, reaching lengths of 45 cm or more; the continuation shoots on semi-skeletal branches are not touched.

Young apple and pear trees that have not yet begun to bear fruit and non-flowering mature trees can be cut not only in March and April, but also in May and June, after bud break.

When pruning pear and apple trees, shortening the ends of the branches causes increased growth of shoots from the lateral buds, which leads to thickening of the crown. To prevent this from happening, during the growing season, part of the growing shoots should be broken out or cut out, without waiting for their strong regrowth. The faster growth of the shoot comes from a bud located directly near the cut. The more the branch is cut, the more buds will awaken on the remaining part, and the more growth they will give. Therefore, a strong shortening when pruning a young apple or pear should only be done as a last resort.

Due to the fact that the buds on the branches are arranged in a spiral, cut to the one that "looks" into a more advantageous space for future escape. Shorten the branch above the selected bud so that the cut line is just above it. If the cut is made lower, then the bud can dry out, but if you leave the longer part, then after the shoot grows out from the bud, the remaining part of the branch above the bud dries up, and diseases and pests can develop on it. In which direction the bud is directed, over which the branch was pruned, the shoot will grow in that direction.

If the branches of the tree are drooping, although this is rare, then during the formation of the crown of pears and apple trees, the growth is shortened to the inner bud (or branch), and if the crown is raised, narrow (compressed) - to the outer bud (or branch). In other words: a branch with an angle of origin of 80-90 ° is shortened above the bud directed upward and inward of the crown, and a branch with an angle of departure less than 40 ° above the bud directed outward of the crown.

When forming the crown of a young apple or pear tree, by thinning, all unnecessary branches are removed to the base (thickening, intersecting, extending from the trunk at an acute angle, growing inside the crown), cutting them into a ring, that is, under the edge of a ring-shaped influx. Cutting out even a large number of branches does not cause an increase in branching and growth of shoots, but, on the contrary, promotes the establishment of short fruit formations on the remaining branches. If there is a competitor, it is also cut into a ring. It happens that a competitor is located more successfully - in such cases, they leave him, removing the conductor.

Often, not the entire branch is cut, but only part of it for the lateral branch. When pruning the crown of a pear or apple tree, this technique is used to transform a strong skeletal branch into weaker semi-skeletal or overgrown branches, as well as to expand the crown in trees with a pyramidal or broom-shaped structure. In a pear, many varieties have such crowns, and in an apple tree these are anise, Arkad tenenkovsky, Grushovka Moscow, Papirovka's Daughter, Zhigulevskoye, Kazanskoye, Cinnamon striped, Medunitsa, Papirovka, Northern Sinap, Spartan, Terentyevka, Welsey.

Strong unnecessary branching of medium length with wide angles the branches, not to mention the small branches on the trunk, are not thinned out or shortened. They gradually become semi-skeletal and overgrown branches. They host the harvest in the first years of fruiting.

When pruning, it is important to take into account the type of fruiting, the awakening of the buds and the shoot-forming ability (the ability to branch). In trees with a thin crown, weakly forming new shoots, shortening of shoots is mainly used, and in plants with a dense crown, thinning is used. Most often it is necessary to use both shortening and thinning.

In apple and pear, the conductors of semi-skeletal branches, in contrast to skeletal branches, are shortened by about 1/2 growth almost every year. Shoots of the horizontal direction are not shortened if there is enough space for them. Branch shortening is mainly used to reduce the height of the tree.

In trees of such varieties as Anise striped, Antonovka ordinary, Iyulskoe Chernenko, Papirovka, Northern Sinap, which have survived thirty-five degrees of frost, autumn wounds heal as well as when pruning in spring. Only for autumn and winter pruning, the cuts should be of high quality, without scoring bark and cracks in the wood.

Here you can find a video tutorial on pruning young apple and pear trees for novice gardeners:

Tips on how to properly prune adult apple and pear trees

Mature, well-growing and abundantly fruitful trees can be pruned after the buds open, but not later than the beginning of flowering. Non-fertile young trees in the summer can only be thinned out, since the shortening of the branches during this period greatly oppresses them.

At the end of May - the first half of June, all spare nutrients concentrate at the end points of growth. If at this time the tops of the shoots are shortened, that is, chasing, then instead of long shoots, which usually happens after early spring or winter pruning, short, or even just ringlets and spears grow. Embossing promotes earlier and more abundant fruiting in well-formed young trees.

Thin branches and shoots (up to 2 cm) are cut with a garden knife or pruner. With a knife, cuts are made with one quick movement of the blade. When pruning pruning of adult apple trees is performed with pruning shears, the counterpart of it is placed on top of the branch to be cut. In this case, the cut is smooth, the bark around it remains intact and no hemp remains on the supporting branch. When a branch with a small angle of departure is cut, the pruner is brought to it from below, and not from the side.

When cutting branches, do not rotate the secateurs around the axis of the branch to be cut. From this, the bark on the branch will be torn off, and the wound will not heal well. Good advice on how to properly prune a pear or apple tree - when removing a branch or shoot with a pruner, it is necessary to leave a spine 1.5-2 cm long above the bud. Large branches should be removed carefully. From the base of the branch intended for cutting, 30-35 cm recede and file from the bottom to about half of its thickness. Then, retreating 10-15 cm above the cut along the branch, saw it from above, and the branch breaks off along the line of both cuts. The rest of the branch, holding it with your hand from below, is cut down in the usual way into a ring.

Using a high-quality garden saw and pruning shears when pruning the formation of apple trees and pears, the cuts are so smooth that they do not require additional cleaning. Sections made with bad or blunt saws and pruners must be cleaned with a sharp garden knife or chisel to a depth of 1-1.5 mm to healthy tissue.

This video shows apple and pear pruning as an adult:

Rejuvenating pruning of old apple and pear trees (with video)

Often, gardeners ask for help in pruning very tall apple trees that are 50 years old or more. As a rule, it is difficult, it is easier to completely destroy an old tree, having previously grown a young one. But you can understand an elderly person who finds it difficult to part with his beloved apple tree. The seedling was planted in his youth, and uprooting a tree is tantamount to carving out a piece of your own life. So you have to pore over pruning for 2-3 years in order to bring the tree into a divine form.

About a year before the rejuvenating pruning of old apple and pear trees, all dry, dead and excess branches are cut out. The essence of rejuvenation consists in periodically shortening old branches for perennial wood, but it should be carried out in more than one year. Heavy pruning can kill the tree.

Rejuvenation begins with thinning to ensure good lighting of the inside of the crown. At the same time, the hanging ends of all branches are cut off so that between the soil and the lower part of the crown there is a space free from branches with a height of 80-100 cm.

Then the crown is reduced, cutting off its upper part and the conductor by 1-2 m, and the skeletal branches - to the lateral branches directed to the periphery of the crown. If during thinning and reduction of the crown a large number of branches were removed, rejuvenation is postponed for the next year. If few branches were removed, then it is carried out immediately. All cuts are made for transfer to the lateral branch. Even if it is a weak branch of the fruiting type.

Light anti-aging pruning is used on an apple tree at the age of 18-20 years, and earlier on early varieties. At the same time, the ends of all branches are cut off with an increase of the last 2-3 years. Annual increments are determined by annular influxes on the branches. Medium anti-aging pruning is carried out on an apple tree at the age of about 25 years, if this crown has not been rejuvenated. Cut off all increments 4-7 recent years... The lower branches are cut into branches oriented upward, and the upper branches are cut to the sides in order to reduce the diameter and raise the lower edge of the crown, as well as reduce the height of the tree. The rule of subordination is observed: the main branch must be longer and thicker than its ramifications.

The main techniques for rejuvenating pruning of apples and pears are presented in this video:

Apple trees aged 30-40 years need strong pruning with the removal of growths 10-12 years old and older. With strong anti-aging pruning, the diameter of the crown decreases by about 1.5 m, and the height by 1 m. It is carried out according to the same rules as the average anti-aging pruning.

After pruning, especially if it was associated with a sharp decline in the crown, many tops will appear. They usually grow very strongly, reaching up to 1.5-2 m in a year. All season they draw "juices" from the tree. And next spring they are cut out. To avoid the consumption of food resources available to the tree, the growth of tops must be prevented.

With a hand or a hook on a stick, they simply break them to the ground. They get to work when the length of the tops is about 7-10 cm (up to 15-20 cm is possible if they did not have time). The break is going fast. It is only necessary to sharply bend the shoot down or to the side, pressing it at the base. If such a top remains tied to the tree with a narrow strip of bark, it does not matter. Even good. It will not grow, but some of the synthesized substances can give to the tree.

Before pruning old apples and pears, watch this video:

A garden in the country or in the courtyard of a private house is the dream of many people. It's nice to spend time on a bench among the trees with a book in hand. But after all, people want to see not only nature, but also have a good harvest in order to harvest fruits. The garden needs care. You need to know exactly how and when to properly cut fruit trees, at what time of the year it is better to carry out these actions, because it is from proper care the quality of the crop will depend.

What is pruning for?

Many hobby gardeners find it easy to do without pruning fruit trees. In their opinion, the crown will grow by itself, the fruits will appear earlier, there will be high yield... No, this assumption is wrong correct pruning trees - the key to a long life of fruit. Also, the volume of the harvest will increase with each season.

If a person does not know how and when to properly cut fruit trees, and will do everything at his own discretion, then soon the fruits are crushed. With each season, there will be less and less fruit, and as a result, a year will come that will not bring a harvest at all.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs is important. Every gardener should understand this and produce correct actions... Pruning is needed for young, old and aging trees. Thus, the wood is rejuvenated and bears fruit better. And many valuable varieties bred by breeders are especially in need of pruning. There are specialists who offer their professional services in the garden.

When is pruning done?

Gardeners often do not pay special attention to the timing of the rejuvenation of the garden plot. Let's figure out when the spring pruning of fruit trees should be done.

The best time is the end of February or the beginning of March, when the danger of a return of severe frosts passes. Pruning begins with young seed orchards. First, these are pears and apple trees, black and red currants (if the thickness of the snow allows).

In late March or early April, most of the crops are pruned. First, these are pome trees, then stone fruit trees. Young crops should be cut off before the start of sap flow, since at a later date the plants weaken with each lost branch.

In May-June, pruning is carried out during the flowering of trees and shrubs. Adult plants can be rejuvenated even after sap flow, thus reducing the regenerative processes of growth.

Care in the warm season

V summer period also pruning some crops. This procedure allows you to delay the flowering of the tree for the next year, which helps to minimize yield losses during early frosts (for example, this is true for apricots). They also carry out breaking and pinching unnecessary shoots. V summer season cut off ornamental plants... To resume flowering, remove inflorescences and flowers.

How and when to prune correctly in the fall? Is it possible to carry out such procedures this season? Yes, for the restoration and rejuvenation of neglected apple trees, and red currants, raspberries and many others.

If gardeners know how to prune fruit trees in spring, then the garden's harvest will always delight the owner with healthy and juicy fruits. The plant will live for many years.

Existing species

To rejuvenate trees and shrubs, use different types trimming, there are about five of them, it is also possible to combine.

The first type is formative. Initially, it is required to give the desired shape and size to the crown. But you need to know how to properly prune fruit trees. All unnecessary branches are cut off at the very trunk, large ones - by a third, thin - twice.

The second type is regulatory. Aimed at maintaining a balance between crown growth and fruiting. All vertical, skeletal branches and branches inside the tree are cut off. Such actions will allow you to give the crown the shape of a pyramid.

The third type is anti-aging. This pruning is done to maximize the growth of all branches (old and young).

The fourth type is restorative. If the tree or its branches have been exposed to frost or mechanical damage, then partial pruning is carried out.

The fifth type is sanitary. This is pruning damaged, painful, dry, or broken branches. In practice, gardeners often combine all types of rejuvenation.

Decent maintenance prolongs plant life

In order to understand how and when to properly prune fruit trees, it is enough to study the literature and try to apply the knowledge gained. People often turn to specialists for help. Pruning fruit trees is different from pruning ornamental shrubs, because pears, apricots, apples, currants, cherries are grown for delicious fruits and berries. When inexperienced gardeners carry out pruning themselves, shoots often grow a little later. They need to be removed, possibly several times. Trees with large roots can live up to thirty years if properly cared for. Vegetation with short roots bears fruit much earlier (three years after planting).

Pruning apple trees

Each fruit tree needs separate care. The apple tree is quite popular in our country. It grows in almost every garden. Pruning apple trees depends on the general condition of the tree: age, structural features, crown. In a separate period of time, different actions are performed. At the time when the apple tree bears fruit, it is pruned according to the regulatory form. During the aging period, rejuvenation is carried out. During the growth and development of the tree, formative pruning is carried out.

If the apple tree is quite old, then it needs special care... As a rule, such trees have many small fruits at the very top. Apple trees are tall and have many dying branches. You need to cut such a tree gradually, over the course of 2-3 years. They start from the south side. A low and narrow crown is suitable for apple trees.

Pruning stone fruit trees and berry bushes

Gardeners want to make the most of their plot. For such a purpose, fruit trees and berry trees as much as possible. In pears, the crown itself is similar to a pyramid, therefore it does not require constant adjustment. One problem: the tree quickly starts up vertical branches, some need to be removed, the rest should be turned into fruit-bearing ones.

Stone fruits form from two to four years of age. It is impossible to delay pruning for a long time, since cherries, plums and sweet cherries are very difficult to bring into the desired shape... Fruiting stone fruit trees have a hard time removing large branches.

In the spring, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries require rejuvenating pruning.

Shortening and thinning

There are two ways to prune fruit trees. The first is called shortening - partial shoots and branches are removed. This approach stimulates the growth of the kidneys. It can be shortened strongly, by half a branch, medium by one third, and weakly - a quarter of the shoot is removed. With this method, trees are rejuvenated. If the branches are large and old, then a strong pruning is done.

The second method is called thinning (cutting). In this case, branches and shoots are completely removed. The method is suitable for fruit which are too thickened.

If you take care of your garden properly, then fresh and juicy fruits will always be present on your table!

Necessary event. Its goal is to heal, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but on the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for the care of cultural garden trees and preventing them from running wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives the necessary amount of light and its own space, without interfering with others. Also, pruning is used as a therapeutic measure for various breakages due to natural processes.

Finally, by pruning old dead branches, you free the tree from unnecessary burden and allow it to focus its efforts on growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inappropriate time and place.

In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is best to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a very important procedure for the health of the plants and the quality of the crop. It regulates metabolic processes inside the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agrotechnical methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

roots;
wood;
leaves;
fruit.

During its existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different rates at different times, directing forces:

to strengthen the root system;
to build up green mass;
for intensive growth;
for flowering and fruiting;
to protect against disease;
to prepare for a period of calm, and so on.

His age, physical condition, state of health change. In this regard, the goals for which "surgical intervention" is done are different, and the type of trimming depends on them.

Based on the intended goals, they share six types of trimming:

- Delays aging and prolongs life.
Formative- simulates the appearance of the crown.
Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
Restorative- Tones up the parts of the plant.
Sanitary- heals the tree and removes unnecessary burden.
Supportive- refreshes and rewards with new strength.

Let's dwell on each type more thoroughly.

Rejuvenating

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten branches that are too long, which will "wake up" the adventitious buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve its health. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetics of the appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from located in a good place. This procedure can be carried out both in the fall and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring, approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of formative pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will grow intensively, while the Marchpruning will slow down this process.

Purposes of formative pruning:

acceleration of the onset of flowering;
increased productivity;
well-groomed appearance;
ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
increased endurance;
easy access to branches for harvesting and leaving.

Formative pruning is carried out on young tree, 3-5 years after its planting.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is formed in stages by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired, may also need it.

Regulatory

With regulating pruning the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform illumination, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and yield of fruits and creates conditions for the renewal of wood and the intensity of growth.

It is carried out from the end of February to April, as well as from August to September, and is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant has suffered for some reason, restorative pruning will help to restore the possibility of further development. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, usefulness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

mechanically injured or frostbitten trees;
if the tree has not been cut for a long time and now has a rather neglected appearance;
when there was an excessive growth of the crown, which interferes with neighboring plants and makes it difficult to harvest and the necessary care;
if it becomes difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient in sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance... Like most therapeutic measures, it should be carried out as needed, when the plant is sick, has dried or broken branches, or frostbitten them.

This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and the beginning of summer, when the tree woke up, is considered the best time. Sanitary pruning performed regularly and annually will make the tree healthier, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. Consideration should also be given to the age of the tree and its size.

Supportive

held regularly during the existence of plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:

do not let out the growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
avoid exposing large branches;
rid skeletal branches of young shoots annoying them;
maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determinants and timing of pruning

The main burden on the gardener falls at a time when the frosts have already passed, and have not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, you no longer need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning is allowed up to the flowering period.

Did you know? An unusual double tree grows in the city of Piedmont, Italy. It came out of, on top of which a cherry pitted, who knows how, sprouted. While developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.

Early spring is the time when pruning begins fruit trees... The first "swallows" in this matter are, and in general pome fruits. They start with stone fruits a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of pruning are:

tree species;
condition of fruit plantations.

If the plant is planted in the fall, it must be corrected before the juices wake up. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops. If frosts have severely damaged the branches, it makes sense to wait until the time when the damage is clearly indicated.

Apple trees- the most resistant crops that are least influenced by others unfavourable conditions... It is with them that the work on health improvement, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.

Branches of apple trees are prone to freezing at the ends even in frost, it is better to remove this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principled approach is as follows:

Strong cherries or cherries should be pruned after they are harvested;
if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
pruning the plum is recommended during the harvesting process, or in mid or late June.

They pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the case when branches withbroke under the weight of the snow, ortrunk splitting during a blizzard, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

In the spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts have subsided, but it will be right if the gardener waits for time, when the sap flow is about to begin.

Such a time is considered the most suitable, since the plant tissues during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. Under such conditions, the cut will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is made correctly and processed properly. If a shaping procedure is required, it is quite possible to wait with this, or even manage in another year.

So, the basic rules that any gardener should adhere to:

the earliest when you can start cutting is the time when the main frosts have gone, but it is better to wait until the moment when the juices are ready to start moving;
the cut is made over the eye growing from the crown outward, making it smooth and even from the inside out.
the skeletal branches, with which the trunk continues, remain longer;
weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes; on strong trees, eight or more eyes are left.

Summer

The concept of "summer pruning" includes several techniques carried out with green shoots that did not have time to acquire bark, for the purpose of thinning the crown for access to sunlight:

pinch- so that shoots grow from awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
pinching- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the mother branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
breaking- for the removal of young shoots that have no value for the crown, it is easily transferred and does not need to be processed;
break- a rarely performed technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Thus, pruning fruit trees in summer makes it easier to work in spring and autumn, helps conserve nutrients inside the plants, and improves fruiting.

Did you know? Designers have learned to shape various objects from a living growing tree, for example, furniture, using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.

In autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in spring, leave protective links. This technique is also good at this time of the year for very. They begin to prune trees in the fall then, when leaves fall.

If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frosts can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will badly affect the buds in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.

However, if there is a need for sanitary pruning, the above considerations lose their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not spread to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees are not very good at pruning in the fall, and some may die or become very sick after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.

In winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frosts are rare and winters mild. It is good because:

plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
the slices made are more accurate and of high quality;
it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all branches are very clearly visible.

The procedure is performed on warm winter days, when it is not lower than -5-7 ° C outside - when it is colder, the wood becomes especially fragile.

When a tree is damaged due to strong wind, icing of branches or excessive weight of snow, and, moreover, threatens with further splitting or breaking, the gardener does not have a question whether it can be cut off. You need to cut it off, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, a decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gateway for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, while large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.

Important! In young peaches and apricots, when planting and pruning, even the smallest wounds should be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw used to cut, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - process special means designed for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any other paints besides oil paints - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

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Today, the processes of editing photos on computers have already become completely commonplace, in which almost any user understands. But novice users who are not familiar with the intricacies of working with Windows or other operating systems often ask themselves the question: how to crop a photo on a computer? In any system, you can use its own tools, and some additional features in the form of graphical editors or even online services.

How to crop a photo on a computer: Paint editor

In any modification of the Windows operating system from Microsoft Corporation, you can find a standard graphics application called Paint. And if earlier this editor looked absolutely uncompetitive in comparison with other software products, since it allowed only primitive operations and supported a minimum of graphic formats, today it has become much better. So first let's see how to crop a photo in Paint.

This is done quite simply. The selection tools are used first. These are rectangular or freehand selection buttons indicated by a dotted line area. Then cropping from the same menu is applied. In this case, the selection will remain, and everything else will be deleted.

Another method to solve the question of how to crop a photo in Paint is to delete the selection using the appropriate command from the main panel menu or the Del key. In this case, it is the selected area that will be deleted.

You can go the other way. First, the selected area must be copied or cut, then set the size of the picture to some minimum (for example, 5x5 pixels) by pressing Ctrl + E. Then paste the cut or copied object from the clipboard.

In principle, if you use a similar but more advanced Paint.NET editor, the actions performed will not differ in any way. In all cases, after finishing editing the picture, you can quickly save it using the Ctrl + S combination or apply standard saving with a new name and the desired file format.

How do I crop a photo on my computer? Windows 7: Microsoft Picture Manager

The tools offered by Microsoft are only standard applications are not limited. You can also use the rather good utility Microsoft Picture Manager, which is sometimes included in the basic Office packages.

Here, the question of how to crop a photo on a computer is solved in almost the same way as in previous editors. Only the sequence of actions performed begins with using the "Picture" menu in the main panel, where crop is selected. But the selection of the desired area or fragment of the image is made after that.

Cropping procedure in Photoshop

Adobe's Photoshop editor is powerful. How to crop a photo on a computer in this particular program? The problem is also solved quite simply.

As usual, first the "Frame" tool is selected, with the help of which the required fragment is selected. After that, a mesh appears on the selected area. On it you need to use the right click, choosing crop. The photo will be cropped. And it only remains to preserve it.

In principle, in this editor, you can also use some specific tools that even allow you to cut layers. But for cases when it is required to leave a single fragment from a photo or picture, the above proposed method will be the simplest and fastest.

Applications for Mac OS X and Linux systems

Today, not only Windows systems can boast of the presence of standard graphical tools.

For example, in Mac OS X you can use Apple iPhoto or Apple Aperture. On Linux, GIMP, Shotwell, Dartable or DigiKam applications are perfect for this purpose, which you just need to install from the repository. In general, there are enough funds.

Online Editors

Finally, there is one more, perhaps the most inconvenient of all those techniques that help find a solution to the problem - how to crop a photo on a computer without programs. This can be done with the help of numerous online editors and resources that provide such services.

However, here you need to clearly understand that you will need an Internet connection to work with them. Moreover, their use is not always justified. Why turn to them, if all the simplest actions can be performed using standard tools of any OS or using installed graphic editors?

Don't like using editors? You can use the tools offered by the functional sets of graphics viewing applications like ACDSee and the like. Well, the question of choosing the most convenient tool remains with the user. Although for the simplest operations in Windows, the usual Paint editor is enough. But the use of more powerful tools will be justified only if you need to do professional editing with the use of special tools.

Seed reproduction in the garden strawberry we are used to, unfortunately, leads to the appearance of less productive plants and weaker bushes. But another type of these sweet berries - alpine strawberries, can be successfully grown from seeds. Let's find out about the main advantages and disadvantages of this culture, consider the main varieties and features of agricultural technology. The information presented in this article will help you decide whether to allocate space for her in the berry.

Often, when we see a beautiful flower, we instinctively bend over to smell it. All fragrant flowers can be divided into two large groups: nocturnal (pollinated by moths) and daytime, whose pollinators are mainly bees. For a florist and a designer, both groups of plants are important, because we often walk around the garden during the day and relax in our favorite corners with the onset of the evening. The fragrance of our favorite fragrant flowers never fails.

Many gardeners consider the pumpkin the queen of the garden beds. And not only because of its size, variety of shapes and colors, but also for its excellent taste, useful qualities and a rich harvest. Pumpkin contains a large amount of carotene, iron, various vitamins and minerals. Thanks to its long shelf life, this vegetable supports our health. all year round... If you decide to plant a pumpkin on your site, you will be interested to know how to get the largest harvest possible.

Scottish eggs - incredibly delicious! Try to cook this dish at home, there is nothing difficult to prepare. Scotch Egg is a hard-boiled egg wrapped in minced meat, breaded in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fried. For frying, you need a frying pan with a high side, and if you have a deep fryer, then it's just great - even less hassle. You will also need deep-fat oil to keep the kitchen out of smoke. Choose farm eggs for this recipe.

One of the most amazing large-flowered tubs, Cubanola Dominican, fully justifies its status as a tropical miracle. Heat-loving, slow-growing, with huge and in many ways unique flower bells, Cubanola is a fragrant star with a complex character. She requires special conditions in the rooms. But for those who are looking for exclusive plants for their interior, there is no better (and more chocolate) candidate for the role of indoor giant.

Chickpea Curry with Meat is a hearty hot dish for lunch or dinner, inspired by Indian cuisine. This curry is quick to prepare but requires preparation. Chickpeas must first be soaked in large quantities cold water for several hours, preferably at night, the water can be changed several times. It is also better to leave the meat in the marinade overnight to make it juicy and tender. Then you should boil the chickpeas until cooked and then cook the curry according to the recipe.

Rhubarb is not found on everyone garden plot... It's a pity. This plant is a storehouse of vitamins and can be widely used in cooking. What is not prepared from rhubarb: soups and cabbage soup, salads, delicious preserves, kvass, compotes and juices, candied fruits and marmalade, and even wine. But that's not all! A large green or red rosette of plant leaves, resembling a burdock, acts as a beautiful backdrop for annuals. Not surprisingly, rhubarb can also be seen in flower beds.

Today, the trend is to experiment with non-trivial combinations and non-standard colors in the garden. For example, plants with black inflorescences have become very fashionable. All black flowers are original and specific, and it is important for them to be able to select suitable partners and location. Therefore, this article will not only introduce you to the assortment of plants with slate-black inflorescences, but also teach you the intricacies of using such mystical plants in garden design.

3 delicious sandwiches - cucumber sandwich, chicken sandwich, cabbage and meat sandwich - great idea for a quick snack or for a picnic in nature. Only fresh vegetables, juicy chicken and cream cheese and some spices. There are no onions in these sandwiches, you can add pickled to balsamic vinegar onion in any of the sandwiches, it will not spoil the taste. Having quickly prepared snacks, all that remains is to collect a picnic basket and go to the nearest green lawn.

Depending on the varietal group, the age of the seedlings suitable for planting in open ground, is: for early tomatoes - 45-50 days, average ripening - 55-60 and late terms - at least 70 days. When planting tomato seedlings at a younger age, the period of its adaptation to new conditions is significantly lengthened. But success in obtaining a high-quality crop of tomatoes also depends on the careful implementation of the basic rules for planting seedlings in open ground.

Unpretentious plants"Second plan" sansevierias do not seem boring to those who appreciate minimalism. They are better than other indoor decorative leafy stars for collections that require minimal maintenance. Stable decorativeness and extreme endurance in only one type of sansevieria are also combined with compactness and very rapid growth - Khan's rosette sansevieria. The squat rosettes of their rigid leaves create striking clusters and patterns.

One of the brightest months garden calendar pleasantly surprised by the balance of distribution of favorable and unsuccessful days for working with plants lunar calendar... A vegetable garden and a garden in June can be practiced throughout the month, while the unfavorable periods are very short and still allow you to do it useful work... There will be their optimal days for crops with planting, and for pruning, and for a reservoir, and even for construction work.

Meat with mushrooms in a pan is an inexpensive hot dish that is suitable for a regular lunch and for a festive menu. Pork will cook quickly, veal and chicken will cook too, so such meat is preferable for the recipe. Mushrooms are fresh champignons, in my opinion, the most good choice for homemade stew. Forest gold - boletus, boletus and other goodies are best harvested for the winter. Boiled rice or mashed potatoes are ideal as a side dish.

I love ornamental shrubs, especially unpretentious ones with interesting, non-trivial foliage coloration. I have different Japanese spireas, Thunberg barberries, black elderberry ... And there is one special shrub that I will tell you about in this article - the viburnum bladder. For my dream of a low-maintenance garden, it is perhaps the perfect fit. At the same time, it is able to greatly diversify the picture in the garden, moreover, from spring to autumn.