Preparing the floor for laminate: mandatory requirements. How to prepare the floor for pouring screed Preparing the surface for laminate

Before you start laying laminate flooring, it is imperative to properly prepare the floor surface. If this is not done, then the finishing material for the floor will quickly deteriorate, and further operation will become impossible. Preparing the floor for laminate has its own distinctive features in accordance with the starting flooring, the functionality of the room and the type of finishing material. The master must necessarily take into account these starting criteria, which will determine further actions.

What is the preparation?

Laminate flooring has a long service life if it is properly cared for and installed with high quality. But during the repair process, it will take a lot of effort to create ideal conditions for this type of finishing material.

Preparing the floor for laminate flooring consists of the following points:

The floor surface must be perfectly flat. There should be no slightest differences in the form of depressions or bumps. After all, at active use incorrect distribution of the load on the board due to unevenness leads to a violation of the integrity of the joint of the boards.
High humidity can lead to deformation of the laminate board, so you should take care of the quality of the cement screed, remove all cracks and crevices. A special substrate is laid on the cement screed in order to protect the material from moisture.
Care should be taken to insulate the floor and additional sound insulation. To do this, lay an additional layer of durable substrate. The screed itself is processed by special means, which prevent the formation of fungus, mold and the appearance of insects.

These steps are essential for preparing the floor base before laying laminate flooring. If the operation of such a floor provides for a long-term option, then you should take care of strengthening it.

Additional material

Additional material is determined according to base surface on which the laminate will be laid. Auxiliary material is a substrate for the main finish:

To form a high-quality screed, it is additionally necessary to purchase: plaster, packaged building mix, hermetic mass.
Wood substrate can be plywood, bitumen-cork base, layers of needles.
Polyethylene foam is one of the most popular underlay options when the room is too damp.

Other components may be needed. Determine the need for others finishing materials possible if you carefully study the situation. Auxiliary mixtures and agents for stripping and processing are sometimes required.

Required Stripping Tools

Preparing a floor for a laminate requires not only experience and auxiliary material, but also the availability of appropriate tools:

An electric jigsaw is necessary for curly cutting auxiliary substrates.
Building level, with which the error in the unevenness of the floor is set.
A drill that is used as the basis for mixing the screed solution.
Roller with a needle nozzle used in the process of pouring the screed.
Spatula for removing the unevenness of the old coating.

Additional tools may be needed if there are any special materials or installation conditions. For example, during the installation process itself, a screwdriver and a rubber hammer are required.

Algorithm for correct operation

Preparation of the floor for laminate flooring is carried out in several stages:

Only after completing all the steps described above, you can start laying the laminate. Otherwise, the quality and further operation of this floor covering may remain in question.

Self-dismantling of the old coating

The method of dismantling the old coating depends on what material is present on the floor. If the gaps and slopes are normal, and there are no deformations and chips on the surface of the old coating, then the laminate can be laid without prior dismantling. This can be done with almost any surface except carpet. Because it can further shrink, which will adversely affect the laminate.

Do-it-yourself preparation of floors for laminate flooring is carried out by dismantling the old coating:

Carpet or linoleum is removed as follows: you need to unscrew the sills and skirting boards, pry off the old coating with a metal spatula, remove the material and vacuum it.
Tiles or tiles will have to be dismantled with a small chisel and a rubberized hammer. The chisel must be fixed in the seam between the tiles at an angle of 45 degrees. Lightly hit the chisel with a hammer. All work is done with the utmost care.
The floor from boards or plywood is dismantled by cutting parts at the junction of the elements, that is, at the seams.

The quality of laying will depend on the optimal deviation parameters: a difference of less than 3 millimeters per 1 running meter and a maximum of 1 millimeter of clearance per 1 linear meter.

Features of preparing a wooden floor

Preparation of a wooden floor for a laminate requires compliance with two main points: the difference between the boards is a maximum of 2 millimeters per 2 meters of length; a maximum of 4 millimeters of slope per 2 meters of space.

Now we will describe the process of preparing a wooden floor for a laminate with our own hands:

Small defects can be removed by looping. If the problem is big, then you can mount it on an uneven floor chipboard sheets, plywood.
Completely eliminate squeaks and other extraneous sounds, which in the future can lead to deformation of the laminate itself.
If alignment with chipboard did not give the desired effect, then you should think about the complete dismantling of the old wooden floor.
Sometimes, instead of plywood and chipboard, a self-leveling screed is used, which is mounted in accordance with certain rules.

When the surface is smooth and clean, you can mount the substrate. Elimination of large defects between the boards is carried out using construction foam, sealant.

Concrete floor treatment

Preparation of the concrete floor for laminate flooring is carried out in accordance with the initial state of the concrete. Sometimes it is necessary to pour a self-levelling compound over the entire surface. It happens that a partial restoration of the concrete base may be necessary.

The new self-levelling fill is mounted like this:

The concrete is primed.
Filled with screed.
It is leveled with a prickly roller.
After drying, rolling is carried out.

Partial restoration is done with cement mortar. Focal repair work are made in accordance with all the rules: holding the level, grinding.

Features of laying laminate in the apartment

The floors in the apartments are exclusively concrete, so all installation and installation is carried out in accordance with the conditions of preparation. concrete pavement. If there is on the floor old linoleum, then you can also leave it and lay the laminate on the starting surface.

Preparation for the laminate has its own characteristics associated with mounting the lining. If the laminate is laid on the ground floor, then auxiliary waterproofing is required. It is organized using polyethylene with a thickness of 0.01 cm. Polyethylene in the seams is fixed with construction tape.

The lining spreads on the same principle as polyethylene. Its joints must match the connection points of the polyethylene base. This will help increase the effectiveness of waterproofing.

Plywood for flooring

The floor is prepared for laminate flooring with plywood quite often. This trick is used to improve the surface quality of a wooden floor. Often plywood is also used for the following purposes:

Strengthening the wooden floor.
Floor insulation.
Improved sound insulation.

First, lags of small height are fixed. Plywood sheets are applied to them, the height of which is not more than 12 millimeters and not less than 10 millimeters. The distance between the screws is no more than 15 centimeters.

Condition of the flooring before laying the laminate

Preparing the floor for laying laminate is not only the successful formation of an even base, but also the correct installation of the floor covering. First of all, it is worth checking the quality of the self-leveling screed, if any. The screed must be dry. Some brands guarantee complete drying in a week. Normally, all moisture from the screed "disappears" after two weeks.

If the alignment was carried out using plywood sheets or chipboard, then the seams between the plates must be sealed with sealant. Mounting foam less often used, as this material can shrink over time.

Depending on the characteristics of the microclimate of the room, the lining is installed. It is guided by it, you need to make the choice of substrate material. Additional materials for insulation, they are laid on a lining and fixed with adhesive tapes.

Where can I learn the secrets of laying laminate flooring?

To learn some secrets about proper styling laminate flooring, you can turn to qualified specialists who independently installed and dismantled floor coverings.

It is quite difficult to lay out a laminate in an apartment with your own hands, so it is better to seek help from professionals. If you still want to learn how to lay it yourself, then for you there are special courses or forums for preparing floors for laminate, where you can learn how to work with building materials different configuration. Recommendations can also be obtained using paid consultations of a specialist.

Laminate is a common choice for those looking to renovate their floors. And this is not surprising, since the laminated coating looks beautiful, durable, does not create difficulties in operation and installation. With the exception of one "but": the laminate categorically does not like when it is laid on an uneven surface.

The height differences for this coating cannot be more than 2 mm per 2 meters of floor, and the slope cannot be more than 4 mm with the same surface length. Otherwise, from a constant load, the laminate will begin to take the form of an uneven base, and this will lead to the destruction of locks, creaking and even breakage of the coating elements.

In addition to the smoothness of the floor, the laminate is also picky about humidity, so the floor underneath must be reliably protected from water vapor. And the last requirement is the purity of the base. Dust, sand and crumbs different origin cause unpleasant sounds: crunching, squeaking, and will also lead to abrasion of the substrate.

Therefore, before laying the laminate, the floor must be prepared. It is believed that it can be laid on any surface, as long as it is hard and smooth. In principle, this does not contradict the truth, but you still need to check the base, otherwise it will be very disappointing when, after a few years, the wooden floor rots, the linoleum cracks, the tiles begin to move away, and the old screed cracks.

What threatens uneven surface and the lack of verification of the grounds is understandable. Now the most important thing is how to assess the quality of the surface and how to correct a critical situation. Floors in houses are concrete or wood, and each of these coatings requires special measures.

Must be removed first existing coverage: remove the linoleum, disassemble the parquet. If the old concrete screed does not fall apart, then it can be left, repaired if necessary, but if it went cracked, then you have to remove it.

Roughness measurement

Deviations from the horizontal can be measured with a long rule or ruler. The tool must be attached to the floor. If it does not come into contact with the surface tightly, it is worth measuring the existing gap.

The slope is calculated with a laser level and a ruler.

If the bumps and pits create drops of more than 2 mm by 2 meters, and the slope is more than 4 mm, then the floor is necessary.

Video - Laser level

There are several ways to level a concrete floor, and each of them will depend on the initial condition of the coating, as well as the wishes of the one who started the repair. Leveling begins with the preparation of the concrete base.

It consists in removing significant protrusions and cracks. Large bumps must be knocked down, and the cracks primed and sealed with mortar. Then remove all debris from the floor, preferably with a vacuum cleaner, and even better - spend wet cleaning. This will help get rid of any sand and dust particles that will prevent the leveling coat from adhering to the substrate. Be sure to waterproof the joints of the plates and the gaps between the wall and the floor.

It does not hurt to align the walls along the baseboard, as they are usually as far from ideal smoothness as the floors. It will be very ugly when a gap forms between the wall and the baseboard.

After preparatory work finished, you can proceed directly to the alignment. If the slope and height difference is not more than 3 cm, then the floor can be leveled using a leveling solution.

It's pretty convenient way to bring to an ideal condition relatively flat floors. The method is fast and does not require special construction skills.

What will be required?

Buy a mixture, and at the same time a primer for the floor.
Apply a primer to the repaired and clean floor. It is designed to improve adhesion and reduce the ability of concrete to absorb moisture.
Glue damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
Prepare the solution according to the instructions. It is better not to stir the mixture manually: firstly, the result will be worse than when mixing with a drill, and secondly, it will take longer. One bucket for the whole room is not enough, therefore, until the first portion is seized, you need to have time to dilute and pour the next one on the floor.
Pour the finished solution in the far corner of the room and, so that it spreads as soon as possible, distribute it with a spatula in the direction of the exit, and then roll it with a spiked roller. This will get rid of air bubbles. Then quickly, without allowing the mixture to set, pour out the second portion and especially carefully work with a roller the junctions of two different batches. It is not necessary to level anything - the liquid will spill itself.
The solution will dry fairly quickly, but exact time when it can be subjected to maximum loads, it is better to clarify on the packaging.

Video - Leveling the floor

In the event that the magnitude of the height difference turned out to be more than 3 cm, the use of a leveling solution will have to be abandoned. There are three ways to choose from the developer: laying a classic cement-sand screed, dry screed or floor extension on logs.

This method allows you to get a solid monolithic floor, but is only suitable for medium height differences. If the maximum thickness of the future screed is more than 10 cm, its weight will create a significant load on the floors, so you will have to resort to other leveling methods.

You can make a cement-sand screed with your own hands, but it will require, if not building experience, then at least diligence. By the way, it dries for quite a long time - this is its main drawback. In order to level the floor with your own hands, you will need to carry out a number of activities.

Video - Cement-sand screed

Prepare the floor: clean, lay waterproofing and stick damper tape.
Find the zero level - the place of intersection with the walls of the horizontal plane of the future coating. To do this, add to the highest point of the floor minimum thickness screeds. For cement-sand it is 3 cm, although it is possible to use ready mixes with other options. The resulting value will be the height of the screed.
In accordance with the zero level found and marked on the walls set beacons. Usually this is a metal profile laid on the hills of the solution so that its tops coincide with the zero plane. The distance between such guides should be slightly less than the width of the rule so that it rests on the beacons when leveling the mortar.
Prepare a solution.
Lay the solution on the floor and level with a long rule.
Dry the finished screed. It is covered with a film or moistened with water for two weeks to prevent uneven drying, and then left for another two weeks for final drying. Three days later, when it will be possible to walk on the screed, you need to remove the beacons and level the grooves from them.

Suitable when the height difference is more than 10 cm. This is usually due to a large slope, and cement strainer in this case, it will create not only a heavy load, but also an uneven one. In addition, a dry screed is good when there is no time to wait for drying.

Floor preparation, as in the previous case.
Search zero level and setting up beacons. Any material can be used as a substrate.
Filler filling. Most often it is expanded clay, but it can also be perlite, polystyrene foam or quartz sand.
The filler must be compacted, aligned with the beacons and laid on top of the sheets rough coating, for example, GVL. This material is usually laid in two layers, with overlapping seams. As the coating is laid, the beacons are removed. The sheets of the coating are attached to each other, and a flat floor is obtained, ready for further work.

Another "dry" way. It is also able to level the most hopeless floors without weighing the floor, but it significantly raises the floor. This must be taken into account - suddenly such an alignment will prevent the doors from opening or you will have to raise the radiator.

Video - Leveling the floor with extensions

Features of a wooden floor determine how to level it. There are also several of them, which makes it possible to choose, but each is preceded by preparation.

First you need to inspect the floor, evaluate its quality and repair if necessary. Creaking and bending boards should be replaced, protruding heads of nails and self-tapping screws should be drowned in the surface. Then check for slopes and holes.

The most common ways of leveling a wooden floor are scraping, pouring with a self-levelling mixture for a wooden floor, puttying with a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue, and leveling with plywood.

Most often, this method is used to level the coating before varnishing, but the result obtained allows you to get a surface suitable for laminate. Before scraping, it is necessary to drown the heads of the self-tapping screws by at least 5 mm so as not to damage the machine knives.

Such tools allow you to even out even significant irregularities. The filling layer reaches 2 cm, and if necessary, several layers can be poured.

Removal of paint or varnish remaining on the floorboards, sealing cracks and holes. For this purpose, you can use a densely diluted composition for pouring.
Primer with a moisture-proof mixture.
Zero level mark.
Seal up the gaps between the floor and the wall with polystyrene foam.
Waterproofing flooring with an overlap on the walls.
Mixture preparation.
Distribution of the mixture on the floor, rolling with a spiked roller.
Drying the layer, applying a second if necessary.

This method is cheap and allows you to level the floors even in large rooms. Such a composition can be bought ready-made, or you can make it yourself from moistened sawdust and glue. The downside is the need to wait a long time for drying, especially when several layers are needed.

Now there is a large selection of such substrates, and you can choose for any whim: thicker, with a foil layer, from natural materials. All have their pros and cons.

For example, polyethylene foam is affordable, protects the laminate well from moisture, is not susceptible to mold, but sags over time.

Bitumen-cork are made of reinforced paper impregnated with bitumen and cork chips. They protect well from moisture, are durable, retain heat, but are quite expensive.

Cork substrates are environmentally friendly, durable, do not deteriorate, but are afraid of moisture, so you need to additionally lay a film under them.

So, the preparation of the floor surface for laying the laminate in the first place comes down to leveling. There are quite a few ways to do this. Each of them has its pros and cons, but all are available for do-it-yourself work. Therefore, a beautiful laminate floor is a dream that can be fulfilled on your own.

Laminate - practical cover for home floors, which is not only easy to install, quick to clean, but helps to transform, make it more comfortable.

The durability of the material depends on the evenness of the floor surface and compliance with the laying rules.

Having wondered how to prepare the floor for a laminate with your own hands, you should first familiarize yourself with the main stages and secrets of this process.

Eliminate irregularities. Differences within 2 mm per 200 cm of the floor surface, on an identical length of the surface no higher than 4 mm. Ignoring this point is a direct path to the deformation of the laminate under the shape of an unleveled base, squeaks and breakage of the material.
Eliminate excess moisture. Eliminate the formation of water vapor under the laminate.
Remove all contaminants. The cleanliness of the base is a guarantee of the absence of extraneous sounds during the operation period. The presence of foreign objects under the laminate can cause abrasion.

Obviously, the first thing to examine is the surface on which the laminate will be laid.

Foundation preparation

Floor leveling is carried out in several ways, the choice of which depends on the quality of the coating and the personal wishes of the customer. In any case, prepare first concrete base.

This process begins with priming and filling cracks, knocking down bumps. After that, the litter is removed with a vacuum cleaner, and additionally, wet cleaning is carried out in.

This is done to eliminate foreign particles, grains of sand and small objects, which can then adversely affect the laminate flooring. Carry out waterproofing of joints and cracks.

It is important to level the surface along the baseboard to prevent gaps from forming. After completing the preparation, start working with the floor. If the discrepancy is not more than 30 mm, then it is best to use a leveling solution.

The use of a floor leveler

The second part is poured out and rolled most carefully with a roller at the junction of the two parts of the batches. There is no need to level the solution, it spreads on its own.

The leveling solution dries quickly, but each manufacturer has its own exact time. Before proceeding, you need to look at the drying time on the package.

The magnitude of the differences exceeding 30 mm involves the application of additional layers of cement or special mixtures or building up the floor on the logs. The use of a leveling solution is impractical.

Cement-sand mortar screed

This is used for medium differences.

Its thickness should not exceed 10 cm, otherwise the pressure on the floors will be too great.

This type of screed can be made without the participation of professionals.

It will take effort and a lot of patience, because a significant disadvantage of the cement-sand screed is its hardening time.

Clean the surface of debris, lay waterproofing and glue the perimeter of the room with polyethylene foam tape.
Defines the intersection point of the roof plane with the walls. Add 3 cm to the highest floor mark (min. screed thickness), however, alternative mixtures with a list of other parameters can be used.
Arrange beacons, focusing on a specific intersection point (zero level). Put the profile on the mortar slides so that its upper parts are in the zero plane. The gap between them should be slightly less than the width of the rail so that it rests on the beacons when distributing the mortar.
Knead the solution and pour it on the floor, leveling with a rail-rule.
Wait until the screed is completely dry. Uneven drying is leveled by wetting the necessary areas during the first two weeks. Or cover the screed with foil. It is necessary to wait another 14 days before the moment when it will be possible to walk on it. A couple of days after that, they pull out the beacons and close up the holes after them.

Dry screed

This leveling method is used for height differences above 0.1 m and when there is no time to wait for drying. The use of a cement-sand screed in this case will only add an uneven load to the floors. To level the floor you will need:

Carry out the initial preparation of the floor.
Determine the zero level and distribute . The substrate can be any.
Pour filler (expanded clay, perlite).
Distribute filler evenly. cover everything GVL sheets, preferably in a couple of layers, overlapping the seams and fastening. During the laying of the rough coating, the beacons should be removed.

Building

How to prepare a floor for a laminate without a screed? Simply, you can use the "dry" leveling method, which is designed for the most difficult cases.

It raises, so you should evaluate in advance the feasibility of using extensions, because otherwise you will have to raise the batteries and the doorway. To level the floor you will need:

Prepare the base, focusing on these instructions.
Determine the zero point. To the highest mark of the floor, add data on the thickness of the beam, rough coating, linoleum, located under the support.
Lay the legs. A self-adjusting system is purchased in a store or made by hand from 40x100 mm bars. The frame is laid out in the form of a lattice, where the width of the cells depends on the coating. For the correct horizontal position, place the remaining materials under the logs, and linoleum under the supports. The main thing is to make sure that the grid is on the same level with the zero mark.
Attach the joists with anchors.
Attach draft plywood to them with self-tapping screws.

Wood floor preparation

For a wooden floor, there are several leveling methods, for each of which it is necessary to properly prepare the floor.

Gender out wooden planks examine and determine its quality. They change worn out components, hammer nails to the end. Determine the presence of slopes or drops.

Scraping the surfaces of cycles

Scraping is usually used before varnishing the surface, but this method can also be used to level the surface for laying the material. At the beginning, they check whether the heads of the self-tapping screws are sunk deep enough into the tree. This will ensure the safety of the elements of the machine.

Self-levelling compounds for wooden surfaces

If there are significant defects in the floor surface, then best solution will become a self-leveling mixture. It can be filled in several layers.

The thickness of each of them does not exceed 20 mm. To level the floor you will need:

Prepare the surface of the wooden floor.
Remove paint and varnish residues, seal cracks and holes.
Prime the surface with a waterproofing mixture.
Determine the zero mark.
Fill the gaps between the floor and walls with styrofoam.
Lay the material so that it covers a small part of the wall.
Dilution of the mixture for alignment.
Pour the mixture in the opposite corner of the room from the entrance, spread it over the floor, moving back, and roll it over it with a roller with a surface of needles to eliminate air bubbles from the thickness of the solution.
Dry the layer.

Putty with a mixture of sawdust and PVA

A cheap leveling method that will be very useful for large spaces.

The components of the putty are connected independently, taking wet sawdust and special glue or bought in a store.

A significant disadvantage of the method is considered to be a long drying time, and a plus is the application in several layers.

To level the floor you will need:

Prepare the floor surface for work.
Arrange beacons from rails.
Prepare and apply it to the surface between the slats with a layer of 20 mm.
Check the evenness of the layer with the rule and eliminate defects.
After the first layer has dried, a second layer can be applied.
Lay thin plywood.

Using plywood for leveling

The method is identical to the floor extension method. To level the surface, a log construction is also used, insulation is placed in the cells and everything is covered with plywood sheets.

After leveling the floor, but before laying out the laminate, lay out a layer of the substrate. It is needed for better noise reduction, as well as for smoothing out bumps and cushioning.

Best of this moment counts cork backing, it is also recognized as the most expensive.

However, there is a greater choice among these materials, which allows you to choose the most acceptable analogue. For example, polyethylene foam underlays are durable and are sold at very affordable prices, in addition, they provide good waterproofing for laminate and do not sag over time.

From reinforced paper, which is impregnated with bitumen and cork crumbs, bitumen-cork substrates are made. These materials are distinguished by good thermal insulation, protect from moisture, but their cost is high.

Cork substrates are famous for their durability and environmental friendliness, but they are defenseless against moisture. For their durability, it is necessary to additionally lay a film coating.

Laying a laminate in all cases begins with leveling a wooden or concrete floor. There are various ones that allow anyone to level the floor in their house without any problems by themselves or using the services of builders. Everyone can choose a method suitable for time, means and abilities.

Read more about preparing the base for laminate flooring:

As always, before starting work, it will not be superfluous to refer to the basic standard SNiP 3.04.01-87 / SP 71.13330.2011 “Insulating and finishing coatings”. The concrete floor surface must meet the basic requirements of this document and be:

Modern adhesives are mixtures of cement, mineral fillers and modifying additives. Therefore, floor leveling is allowed tile adhesive in the presence of irregularities up to 5 mm.

It would be useful to recall that before starting all work, you need to read the instructions for using dry building mixtures for tiles and porcelain tiles. This will help to avoid many mistakes during the installation process.

We also note that this article discusses the preparation of the floor for laying tiles in the kitchen, bathroom, hallway or any other room. When installing a shower in the bathroom, the technology becomes more complicated due to:

Leveling the floor for tiles: methods and features

Any floor finish must be installed on a flat, dry and solid foundation. But rare concrete surface meets these requirements. Therefore apply various ways leveling the floor under the tiles with your own hands:

Tile adhesive (ready-made dry mixes);
Self-leveling (levelling) compositions;
Cement-sand composition (screed).

Each of the above means has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them in more detail.

Tile adhesive

From a professional point of view, it is better to use specialized products - levelers, thin-layer finishing compositions. But since in adhesive composition there are all necessary components(cement, quartz sand, plasticizers), it is indeed allowed to be used for the purpose of smoothing the floor for laying tiles. But there are several nuances here.

If the floor is almost even and a thin layer is required, then you need to close the adhesive large quantity water to obtain the consistency of liquid sour cream;
Preparation of the floor for laying with differences of 5-10 mm is carried out with a thicker mixture, optimally - in 2 passes. That is, for the first time, a preparatory layer with a thickness of 3-6 mm is poured and stretched, and in the second - a finishing layer, no more than 4 mm.

Secondly, many craftsmen prefer to use cheap mixtures for leveling, and already directly when working with tiles or porcelain stoneware, use expensive, professional compositions with a high degree adhesion and plasticity. In addition, they already contain special water-repellent additives, due to which preliminary waterproofing is not required. This is true for kitchens, balconies, hallways and other similar rooms.

Thirdly there is no clear instruction. Each master develops for himself his own algorithm of work, but the principle is the same: cleaning, priming and applying a leveling mixture. The discrepancy is only in proportions, and most importantly, in timing. Cement needs at least 28 days for full maturation and strength development, but the percentage of its content in adhesive mixtures less than half of the total mass. In addition, a variety of plasticizers are included in the formulation, including hardening accelerators, workability enhancement, and the like. Therefore, it is worth focusing on such an indicator as the period after which a full load on ceramic flooring is allowed. As a rule, when internal works this period is 5 to 7 days.

The technology is simple:

Self leveling compounds

Incredibly convenient development that allows you to smooth the surface of the base with a layer of 2 mm to 10 cm - these are leveling compounds. They are divided into basic levelers (coarse-grained), universal and finishing (fine-grained thin-layer). We note right away that all three types are suitable for our purposes (depending on the thickness of the layer). For the formation durable coating it is better to use cement or cement-gypsum compositions.

The advantages of bulk compositions are in the speed and convenience of working with them. Allowed laying ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, artificial or natural stone already 3-5 days after filling. You need to select the appropriate composition based on:

Applications (indoor or outdoor);
Method of use (manual or machine);
Layer thickness.

The device of a bulk floor has to be made strictly according to the instruction. The surface is cleaned of dirt and old coatings, weak areas are removed and filled repair mixtures. Next, a primer is applied in 2-3 layers with mandatory drying for 12-24 hours.

Along the perimeter of the room, the level of the new floor is marked on the walls or point beacons are installed. When forming a layer with a cross section of more than 1 cm, it is desirable to use a damper tape.

The solution is kneaded in the proportion indicated on the label, poured onto the surface and distributed with a spatula, doctor blade. The coating is rolled with a needle roller for deaeration and compaction. The leveled base will be ready for further work in just a few days.

Screed

Cement-sand mixture is a universal and inexpensive means of leveling any type of base. Due to the high content of the binder, the surface is very hard, practically does not deform and withstands significant loads. But the period of drying and curing is too long - up to 28 days. Because of this, preference is often given to bulk trains or tile adhesive.

To level the floor with a layer of more than 3 cm, a full-fledged screed fits perfectly. You can purchase a ready-made packaged mixture or form it yourself in an approximate proportion: 1 part of cement, 3-5 parts of sand and water in an amount sufficient to obtain a thick solution (approximately 20% by volume). You can add screenings, crushed stone, reinforcing fiber, expanded clay, crushed slag to the composition. That is, everything that will allow you to give the screed additional properties: strength, thermal insulation, etc.

Lighthouses are installed on the floor. These can be reference products, metal profiles fixed with mortar, or even just nails screwed into the base at the required level. The finished composition is applied to the surface and distributed by the rule. After pouring, experts recommend covering the floor with a film and periodically moistening it for uniform maturation of the cement and gaining strength. After 14-28 days (depending on the thickness), the screed is ready for laying tiles or porcelain stoneware.

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