Making a boat with your own hands from rubber, aluminum, wood, plastic bottles photo video. How to make a boat from plywood with your own hands: dimensions and drawings Homemade boats for hunting and fishing

Despite the abundance of fishing and tourist boats in specialized stores different forms and sizes, many are still interested in how to make a homemade boat from plywood. main reason Such interest lies, perhaps, in the ineradicable craving of our compatriots for creative work.

Even though you can buy anything today, there is some indescribable charm in a homemade dinghy or dinghy, made according to drawings almost from the magazine “Rybolov”.

In the article we will give some tips, using which you can quickly learn how to make homemade boats from plywood.

Materials and tools

Not so long ago, homemade mini plywood boats were very popular. This made it possible to work out methods for their production, as well as determine the most suitable materials.

Of course, today the list of available varnishes, impregnations and adhesives for plywood is much wider than it was even ten years ago - but to make a small-sized watercraft with our own hands, we don’t need anything complicated:

Plywood is the most main component . For the manufacture of boats, sheets of glued natural birch veneer with a thickness of about 5 mm are most often used. Individual parts, such as frames or keels, are cut from thicker (10 - 15 mm) material.

Note!
To ensure sufficient reliability for the sides, only use quality plywood, without cracks, delaminations, knots, etc.
Of course, the price of first or second grade material will be higher, but you will be confident in the safety of your boat.

Wood is used to install internal struts, decorate sides, and seats etc. It is advisable to use edged planed boards made of light wood.
Suture material is used for connection individual parts sheathing in one piece. Seams can be made using fairly thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line, etc.
Glue is needed to ensure proper sealing of the seams. Today, craftsmen have practically abandoned natural casein-based compounds and prefer modern polymer resins.

In addition, we will need special varnishes and impregnations that protect the wood from swelling and rotting. It is also worth stocking up on fiberglass or similar material for gluing all seams. As an alternative to fiberglass, you can use fiberglass - then the entire bottom and sides will be covered with it.

Well, don’t forget about the paint - after all, we want our ship to be beautiful!

As for the tools, the set will be almost standard:

Saw on wood.
A jigsaw with a set of blades of different lengths.
Sander.
Hand tool(hammer, pliers, chisels, etc.)
Clamps for clamping plywood when gluing.
Brushes for impregnation, varnishing, etc.

Making a boat

Drawings and layout

Before we start work, we decide what kind of vessel we need. Today, on the Internet you can find a variety of drawings of homemade plywood boats, so nothing is impossible either in building a fishing punt or in assembling a tourist kayak.

If none of the found drawings suits us, we can start designing ourselves.

True, in this case you will need certain skills to calculate the carrying capacity, otherwise the boat may turn out to be purely decorative.

Having studied available projects homemade plywood boats, or having made your own, we transfer the outlines of the main parts onto paper.
Using paper templates, we draw lines on the plywood sheets along which the frames and sheets for sheathing will be cut.
If the factory length does not suit you (and this happens in 99% of cases), then it is necessary to splice them. To do this, we cut the ends of the plywood under acute angle so that the length of the resulting bevel is 7-10 times the thickness of the sheet itself.

Having attached the beveled parts to each other, coat them with glue and clamp them with clamps. This technique is called a “whisker” connection.
At the same time we prepare wooden beams, from which the frame of our future boat will be made.

Advice!
To make work on the project easier, you can assemble special trestles from beams with a section of 50x50 mm.
It will be much more convenient to place all the parts on these sawhorses during the joining process, especially if you work without assistants.

Housing assembly

When everything is ready, let's start working:

Using a wood saw or jigsaw, . The deviation from the design size should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not “converge” when sewing.
We glue the transom parts (rear side) and frames to obtain the required thickness and strength. The glued parts will be a little heavy, but that's okay!
If you plan to install outboard motor, then the transom should be additionally glued with fiberglass and reinforced with a hardwood board.

Advice!
To increase the strength of the connection, the frames and transoms can be additionally secured with self-tapping screws.
In this case, the length of the screws should be such that the tip does not pierce the part through.

We install the transom on pre-made trestles and begin to attach the bottom and sides to it, bringing them together at the bow.
We fasten the sheathing parts either using suture material (if not very thick plywood is used), or exclusively with glue, cutting off the edge of the plywood at an angle.

At this stage, it is very important that all elements match in size, since to reduce the gap you will have to disassemble the entire structure and partially trim the frames.

After the “rough assembly” you can start gluing.

Glue works

The instructions for gluing and sealing our vessel are as follows:

We prepare a mixture of epoxy resin and aerosil (silicon dioxide). Mix the components in a 1:1 ratio using a drill attachment. The optimal consistency of the mixture is like thick sour cream.
We strengthen the corners between the bottom, sides and transom using wooden fillets - small corners that ensure the rigidity of the connection.
We glue strips of fiberglass and fiberglass onto all the seams from the inside, thoroughly coating the joints with epoxy-aerosol compound.

Note!
Since the majority adhesive compositions contain volatile toxins, all paint and varnish works must be performed using respiratory protection!

After the glue has dried, we install the frames in the selected places.
To fix the frames we use the same glue. If the dimensions of the vessel are large enough, then in order to strengthen the structure, the frames should be additionally fixed on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.

We lay the flooring on the bottom, fasten rowlocks, seats and other parts provided for by the design.
If you plan to equip the boat with a cockpit ( closed space in the bow), install the cover, fixing it on the sides and frames.

After waiting for the entire structure to dry, we remove the boat from the trestles, turn it over and sand the outer surface. Then we treat the seams with an epoxy mixture and glue the bottom with fiberglass.

Coloring

At the final stage, we need to provide our boat with protection from moisture and give it an attractive spring look:

First, thoroughly degrease all parts.
Then we treat the wood with impregnation. The composition for sea or river vessels from Tikkurila is quite suitable here.
We putty all surfaces, masking cracks and irregularities, and then treat them with a special primer.
You can paint homemade plywood boats with almost any paint, but if you want to ensure durability of the vessel, it is better to use special pigment mixtures designed for processing wooden ships.

The average paint consumption is 1 – 1.5 l/m2. It is best applied with a brush, but a spray gun can also be used.

Conclusion

A homemade plywood boat made using this technology will be quite suitable for fishing trips, family outings, etc. Of course, you shouldn’t go out into the open sea in it, but as practice shows, for big rivers and lakes in our country, such a design is quite reliable. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Similar materials

Hunting and fishing are a favorite pastime of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod early in the morning in the reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.

Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, are used in different ways - rubber, aluminum, boats made of PVC and even plywood.

You can buy absolutely any watercraft, if only you had the money, but how can you make a boat with your own hands? We'll tell you in our article.

Plywood boat

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

The most important preparatory moment in construction are boat drawings. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to waste time and effort on remaking and adjusting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. By transferring the drawings to paper, we will receive life-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now we can “cut out” our product and cut out the blanks with a jigsaw. Once you have all the cut out parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect the load-bearing structural elements, the transom (cut of the aft part) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

To connect all parts, use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but will also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having secured the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to strengthening the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this with wooden corners, then proceed to sealing the seams.

To obtain suture material, epoxy resin and Aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Next, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the entire structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs processing; it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, and sand the surface after drying. Then prime and paint.

Repairing damage to a PVC inflatable boat

If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then you probably often experience leaks due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult; it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and do better repairs in a workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat within a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, upon return it is necessary to redo everything, since a hastily glued patch and without proper technology will not last long.

If a puncture occurs while fishing or hunting, use only the repair kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

For overhaul boats you need:

Repair kit (included with the boat);
Scissors;
Roller;
Pencil;
Solvent promoting degreasing;
Brush for adhesive.

Cut out a rounded patch from spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Note!

Spread the area to be repaired on a flat surface, clean it from dirt and degrease it with a solvent. Place the patch over the hole and trace with a pencil, coat both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and again give time to dry. After 5 minutes, the restoration itself can begin. Touch the surface of the patch with your finger; it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site; a hairdryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the adhesive side, and carefully expel all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then leave it to dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Note!

DIY boat photo

Note!

Every professional fisherman or hunter simply must have a boat in their arsenal. On this moment the market is crowded with a variety of boats various models and modifications for different tastes and incomes.

This article will outline detailed description, how to create your own boat with your own hands.

Self-assembly of a boat from plywood

Many people wonder whether it is possible to make a high-quality swimming device on their own, save on it and enjoy the manufacturing process.

Homemade boats have a number of undeniable advantages in front of their factory “brothers”:

Product weight. When using plywood, weight is significantly reduced compared to similar wooden or metal models.
Usage solid sheets will allow you to create ideal forms, which will provide excellent stability and ensure ease of launching.
Minimum final cost. It will be spent, you will only have to Consumables, such as plywood, boards and glue, varnish. It is worth noting that a lot can be found in the garage of a thrifty owner.

People with carpentry skills will spend one and a half weeks on this work, subject to working in their free time or two full days.

Dimensions and drawings

Let's consider technical capabilities future boat in more detail.

Relatively flat and narrowed bottom with a slight rise in the bow and stern. The height of the bow of the side is 540 millimeters, which in turn is more than many motor boats similar class.

To ensure that the high nose does not interfere with visibility, a cut is made along the length of the nose by 100 millimeters. Bow designed in such a way as to facilitate boarding or disembarking of passengers, as well as loading.

Special cargo compartments are provided under the bow and stern. The design allows for the use of oars and low-power motors of up to 8 horsepower.

This model can be safely called multifunctional, as it is perfect for hunting, fishing and just household needs.

It is possible to install a canopy, in case of bad weather conditions on a special aluminum construction for which there are nests on the side of the boat.

Maximum length in meters 2.3. Width in meters 1.34

Side height:

The nose is 54 centimeters.
The back is 40 centimeters.
Stern height 45 centimeters.
The body weight is twenty kilograms.
Load capacity 180 kilograms.

Possibility of installing an outboard motor from two to eight horsepower.

It is possible to use one pair of oars.

Figure No. 1:

A) View of the bottom.
B) Top view.
B) Transom (blanks)

Figure No. 2. External cladding(sheet preparation):

A) Board.
B) Cheekbone.
B) Bottom.

Materials for construction

To build a homemade boat, you will need some experience with carpentry tools.

Below is a list of tools you will need:

Screwdriver
Manual milling machine.
Hand sander.
Clamps.
Electric jigsaw.

List of materials for assembly:

Waterproof plywood with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters and dimensions of 2.5 by 1.25 meters and one and a half sheets of 6 millimeters.
Planed boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters.
Wooden slats.
Brass nails.
Self-tapping screws for wood.
Epoxy resin.
The varnish is waterproof.
Fiberglass.
Beam 50 by 3400
Beam 40 by 20 by 4000

Assembly - detailed instructions, step by step

Making a frame for the sides

The frame is assembled on a workbench and finished on the ground. Place the keel on the workbench, to one side of which the sternpost with a pre-attached transom is attached, and to the other side the stem.

The keel part with attached frames and stems is connected with nails.

You should carefully check for any distortions and, if there are any, make adjustments.

Adjustments can be made by stretching the string between the stem and the transom. After making sure that the axes coincide, you can finally fix it.

A thin cloth or paper impregnated with thick paint or resin is laid between all connections.

After the stems have been secured, you can begin installing the frames.

A cutout for the keel should be made on the frames at right angles. For a tight and reliable fastening of the frame, the cut under the keel should be made 0.5 millimeters narrower than the frame.

Fit should be checked taut rope, which should coincide with the beams. By installing the frames at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the keel, you can finally secure it. After all the operations performed, you should set the deflection angle.

For this purpose, you can use a round or rectangular beam, which is temporarily fixed to the ends of the keel from the inside, and an 11-centimeter beam is inserted between the keel and the beam.

To eliminate lateral distortions, the stems and transom, as well as the beams, are fastened with some kind of beam.

Frame covering

After this, he will draw in the same dimensions the formats of the plywood sheets prepared for cladding and try on templates on these sheets to minimize the amount of waste.

The contours of parts of natural size when marking on plywood can be obtained by connecting the points found when setting the given dimensions from the axes of the parts using a long ruler or pattern.

All parts are cut out with a jigsaw with fine teeth, taking into account a margin of 2 - 3 millimeters. For subsequent joining of sheets, you will need to add 70 millimeters.

Before gluing, you should align the axes of the parts to be glued using a thread driven between the boards on which the workpiece will be attached.

After the glue has hardened, identical parts of the board should be knocked together with small nails and adjusted together with a plane.

Along both edges of the cheekbones, at a distance of 12 millimeters, holes with a diameter of 2 millimeters are drilled in increments of 50 millimeters for the wire fasteners that will be used to connect later.

Fastening the casing should begin from the bow of the boat, fastening it with copper wire through holes made along the bottom and side. Twist the wire with outside two or three turns with a little slack.

Then we sheathe the transom and bottom of the boat

After the sides are assembled, templates A and B are installed and temporarily secured in the positions shown on the layout of the skin drawing.

Having assembled the bottom according to the same principle that was used when assembling the sides, you should install the boat transom and secure it with 3x18 screws at a distance of 50 millimeters using glue.

There is a possibility that the sides will protrude aft beyond the transom; in this case, the edges should be trimmed with a plane.

After all the above operations have been completed, you should finally tighten all the paper clips with pliers and crimp everything from the inside.

Fiberglass

All cracks and joints of the resulting boat should be glued with fiberglass cut into strips.

The first layer must be at least 25 millimeters wide, and the next two layers at least 80 millimeters, however, it is worth considering that the 2nd and 3rd layers must be offset by different sides from 10 to 15 millimeters.

After the fiberglass has completely hardened, cut off the protruding ends of the wire fasteners and glue them with fiberglass on the outside.

The bottom should be reinforced with strips to increase its rigidity and increase its service life. This is done this way:

The prepared strips are drilled for screws in increments of 20 - 25 centimeters. After this, the blanks are laid out in place and attached to screws, marked with a pencil and removed.

The marked areas are treated with glue and the workpieces are screwed back.

After the glue has dried, the screws can be unscrewed and the holes filled with specially prepared nails cut from wood.

After removing the auxiliary devices, all holes in the boat skin must be filled with sawdust or wood flour mixed with epoxy resin.

The inside of the body is treated with hot drying oil. You can use it to paint the bottom and cans of a ship. regular paint oil based.

Glue selection

The following adhesive materials are used in the construction of boats:

Epoxy resins.
Vinyl ester resins.
Polyester resins.

Let's take a closer look at the above listed resins:

Epoxy resin can safely be called a universal resin used in the production of swimming aids, found indispensable application in composite structures and ship repair. These resins provide the most high quality glue seam.
Vinyl ester resin is essentially a hybrid compound. Increased strength is provided by epoxy molecules. Moderate shrinkage during hardening, and high strength prevents the formation of cracks during hardening. It is also worth noting the increased toxicity of this type of resin and the rather high cost compared to other types.
Polyester resins can easily be called the cheapest kind of resin, used in the construction of ships using plastic.
The main advantage, in comparison with other types of resins, is the relative cheapness of this product. The only disadvantages include the fact that it is used only for gluing fiberglass.
These types of resins are used for the construction of boats and yachts and are used to impregnate products in the process of plastic reinforcement.

Regardless of the material, absorbency and adhesion are undoubtedly key to making a quality boat.

Not everyone will be able to purchase a ready-made boat, since the prices are very steep. In addition, not all designs meet the needs of different clients. If you take inflatable boats, then these are not very reliable models, since they can easily get damaged in difficult conditions. This means that they are not very reliable. In such cases, a decision is made to make a boat with your own hands from plywood. The construction of a small craft begins with sketches, which are then transformed into very professional drawings.

This exciting process and it is only possible for those fishermen who are in constant creative search. In addition, building a boat is a factor of self-affirmation. But if you look at the process seriously, then there is nothing complicated.

A small watercraft that can carry 2-3 anglers on board, and is not heavy, can easily be made from plywood, as one of the most affordable building materials. Moreover, the boat can move both with the help of oars and with the help of a boat motor or sail. This does not require special professional training, which is quite feasible even for beginners.

Plywood is a strong enough material to build a small boat, not to mention expensive yachts, where plywood is also widely used in their manufacture. In addition, it is easy to process using electrical or manual tools.

In addition, if you install a motor on such a boat, it can develop a respectable speed with good performance characteristics. In addition, a plywood boat is much more reliable than an inflatable boat.

Materials and tools

Firstly, you will have to select an appropriately sized room where the boat could freely fit. It is advisable that the room be heated, since all work can take place in winter. In the summer, it’s unlikely that anyone will start building a boat: in the summer you already need to sail on it. Moreover, the room must be ventilated, with the ability to maintain optimal temperature regime. Since you will have to work with wood, the humidity must be optimal.

To draw a diagram, you need to have:

drawing supplies;
pencils;
elastic bands;
patterns;
rulers and triangles;
line;
cardboard and drawing paper;
paper glue;
calculator.

At the construction stage you will need:

jigsaw;
hammer;
axe;
clamps (up to 10 pieces, no less);
brushes, spatulas (metal and rubber);
screwdriver;
electric and manual plane;
screwdrivers;
chisels;
stapler;
circular and hand saw.

Materials for manufacturing can be:

plywood (sheet 1.5x1.5 meters), thickness 4-5 mm;
pine or oak boards;
fiberglass for covering the boat hull;
putty for filling cracks;
waterproof glue;
drying oil or water-repellent impregnation for wood;
oil paint or waterproof enamel;
nails, screws, self-tapping screws;
metal strip, metal for various fasteners.

Main dimensions of the boat

If you use plywood with a thickness of 5 mm, then its optimal dimensions will be:

The total length of the craft is 4.5 meters.
The width of the craft (at its widest point) is 1.05 m.
The depth of the boat is 0.4 meters.

What is the boat made of?

The boat consists of a key element - the keel, which serves as the base and to which other elements of the boat are attached. The bow of the boat is called the stem and with reverse side there is a sternpost. With the help of these components, the boat is given longitudinal rigidity. Such structural parts can be made from a single piece of wood or individual components connected by gluing, as well as nailed or twisted with screws.

The shape of the hull is determined by the presence of transverse load-bearing elements called frames. The planks connected to the frames, stem and stern post form the sides of the boat.

If you cover this frame with plywood, you will get a boat. A deck is laid inside the boat - a slant, which is the lower deck to protect the bottom of the boat.

Plywood boats for motors

Motor boats are not particularly different in their design considerations compared to boats designed to be propelled by oars or sail. The only difference is in the organization of the place for mounting the engine. As a rule, a transom board is attached to the stern, where the outboard motor is installed.

Certain designs of small vessels are equipped with other elements, such as a cockpit, deck stringers, side stringers, etc. To improve stability and unsinkability, special gaps are provided in the craft, which are filled polyurethane foam. This approach eliminates the possibility of flooding the boat if it capsizes.

Working drawings of the boat

All work on building a boat begins with drawings, which must be drawn up professionally. If this is not possible, then you can turn to the Internet for help, where you can find ready-made drawings. The main thing is that they correspond to the basic imaginations. But even here you need to be careful not to miss the main stages of assembling the boat and making additional components.

As a rule, most drawings are drawn on graph paper. This will make it possible to calculate in detail all the structural components.

A large sketch of the drawing can be drawn using the following algorithm:

A line is drawn that conditionally divides the boat into two parts. This takes into account the fact that the two parts, left and right, must be symmetrical and absolutely identical.
The drawn line is divided into several equal segments. Subsequently, frames will be installed in these areas.
Both a vertical display and a top projection are drawn.
The shapes of the frames are drawn using the transverse marks.
The main dimensions of all components are checked to scale.
The shape of the frames is drawn on a scale of 1:1 on cardboard or thick paper.
Flexible lines of the boat shape are drawn using a ruler or pattern.

The resulting drawing is folded along the drawn line to check for symmetry. Both parts must flawlessly repeat each other.

Transferring a design to a wooden piece

After once again checking the drawings for correctness, they are transferred to cardboard. Thick and rigid paper will make it easier to transfer the drawings to the workpieces. The drawing is transferred to the workpiece, taking into account all the contours and contours exactly as it was drawn, without all kinds of overlaps, reductions and increases in size.

When copying designs, take into account the direction of the wood grain. In this case, it all depends on the design of the boat elements. If the element is made of plywood, then the plywood layers themselves are arranged in such a way that the fibers of each subsequent layer are perpendicular to the previous layer.

As for making futoxas, they can be made larger in height, since they can then be trimmed.

Technological stages of production

To build a plywood boat with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

transfer the drawing to the template;
transfer drawings from templates to wood;
install the keel and secure the stem;
secure the frames;
secure the sternpost and transom board (for the motor);
cover the bottom with plywood;
trim the sides;
seal joints and stringers;
putty and paint the boat hull.

Boat hull

The frame of the boat and its hull are assembled from prepared parts. The assembly process must be carried out carefully and carefully, in all planes.

The frames are first pre-attached to the keel and only after the next inspection are they finally secured. Moreover, the fastening must be reliable, since the boat will have to be turned over before covering it with plywood.

Assembling the inner contour of the futox

The strength of the structure, including the sides, depends on how reliable fastening futox. Footoxes are integral part frame design, which consists of floortimber and two futox.

Flortimbers is Bottom part frame, which is designed to be attached to the keel. Futoxes are the side parts of the frames to which the sides of the boat are attached. The places where the futox and flortimber are attached are structurally made somewhat wider, which increases the stability of the entire structure. This is especially important for watercraft where engines will be installed, which increase the load on the structure in general and during movement in particular.

Material for stem

The stem has a complex shape, which is due to the loads acting on it during the movement of the boat. One of the most suitable materials oak can be used to make it, but, in extreme cases, elm can also be used.

You'll be lucky if you can find a segment suitable tree, having a natural bend. If this is not possible, then you can make a stem from individual elements, by gluing method. If you want to have a solid structure, then you need to take an ax and other tools and cut it out according to the shape of the boat.

Keel design

The keel is the simplest component of the boat design, and is a typical board, 25-30 mm thick and 3.5 m long.

Side boards

To do this, choose healthy, smooth and knot-free boards, 150 mm wide and up to 5 m long.

Making a transom

The transom is intended for mounting a boat motor. The transom board should be 25 mm thick. If plywood is used, it is better to glue several layers together so that you end up with a suitable thickness (20-25 mm). The base for mounting the motor must be rigid, so its thickness should not be less than 20 mm. If necessary, the transom board is reinforced from above wooden block. In this case, it all depends on the method of mounting the outboard motor.

Making a boat frame

The frame is assembled in the following sequence:

the keel is installed;
stems are installed;
the installation locations of the frames are marked;
installation of frames;
fastening frames, stems and transom to the side boards;
checking the correct installation of all elements before their final fastening;
It is advisable to treat the joints of structural elements with a waterproof compound or drying oil.

Sheathing a boat with plywood

According to the working drawing, blanks are cut out of plywood for sheathing the boat's hull.

Subsequently:

the frame of the boat capsizes upside down;
all surfaces of the keel and frames are treated with emery cloth and made absolutely smooth;
the parts of the bottom of the boat are installed in their place and secured with a stapler, after which the fastening points are pierced with nails;
The side skin elements are first tried on, and then fastened in the same way as when fastening the bottom;
When gluing workpieces, you should pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the outer layer of plywood. They should be located along, not across, the boat.

Working with glue

Work with glue is aimed at obtaining robust construction, and if necessary, fill seams or cracks with it. When working with plywood, all joints between the workpiece and the keel and frames are glued. After punching with nails, the areas connecting the plywood with the load-bearing elements are filled with glue if they do not fit tightly.

To improve the strength and performance of the craft, plywood sheathing covered with fiberglass. Similar protection wooden structure increases the durability of the boat. The fiberglass fabric is evenly distributed along the plane of the skin, while folds or the appearance of bubbles are not desirable, which indicates poor quality work. The fabric is glued from the keel, towards the side boards.

Painting

As soon as the surface of the boat has dried well, proceed to the next stage - puttying and painting. Ready-made putty mixtures on an artificial basis are ideal. The boat is painted in two stages: first, a primer layer is applied, and then one or two layers of paint.

Registration of a watercraft

To register a boat self-made, the following documents should be submitted to the State Inspectorate for Small Vessels:

passport;
individual taxpayer number;
A certificate of initial technical inspection of the watercraft agreed and signed by the inspector with a conclusion on its suitability for operation;
settlement receipts for materials that were used in the construction process;
receipts for payment of state registration fees;

The boat greatly expands the possibilities of the fisherman! This is a generally accepted fact, and we will not have a long debate here. Another question, ? It is clear that, depending on the conditions, boats will be relevant different designs. Also, you can buy a boat, or you can make it yourself. About what there are homemade boats, about their advantages and disadvantages, about the feasibility self-made fishing boat- in this post.

Industrial boats are: inflatable (rubber, PVC) and rigid, usually awkward (made of plastic, wood, duralumin). What about homemade boats?

Make your own boat– it’s not an easy matter. They engage in independent boat building if there is stubbornly no money; if it is a remote region and there is nowhere to buy; if your hands are itching to make something, well, for example, a boat... In all other situations, it’s easier to just buy a suitable boat. Small inflatable - for small ponds and lakes; medium inflatable for medium lakes and rivers; a hard plastic one or a whole boat, if you have something to transport and plan to fish in large expanses of a river, reservoir or sea.

I have seen several designs of homemade boats, and I will tell you about them.

1. Rigid homemade boat made of plywood and wood. These are small boats, usually for fishing small ponds and lakes. One- and a half-seater (if you do more, it will be too heavy). The contours are quite straight. Such a boat is carried on a “crown”, the top trunk of a car.

The frame and skin of the boat are assembled using self-tapping screws. The outer surface, sides and bottom are dried, primed and painted.

A plywood boat can be made in a wide variety of shapes. Clumsy rectangular shapes can, if you have the skills, be made smoother, more boat-like.

The awkward one shown in the drawing wooden boat It can also be made folding, with a bottom made of rubberized fabric. The sides are hard, the bottom is soft. Make all cross braces removable. It will look something like this.

It is clear that such a boat will be more compact, and if necessary, it can be folded.

2. Homemade boat made of duralumin. In principle, it’s the same thing, only the boat’s hull is made of sheet duralumin. The joints are welded using argon welding.

3. The most interesting, in my opinion - folding duralumin boat. One of the spinners who lives next door uses this one.

A total of 6 duralumin parts: bottom – 2 parts; each side - 2 parts. The elements are attached using elastic, durable rubberized fabric. The fabric is attached to the duralumin with a series of rivets, through an overlay.

1 – part side (bottom); 2 – strip of rubberized fabric; 3 – duralumin overlay; 4 – rivets.

My neighbor is not completely disassembling the boat. He just removes the spacers and folds the sides inward. If desired, you can also bend the structure across. And so, he places the boat on the top trunk of the car and tightens it with rubber bands. It comes out quite compact.

The transverse struts of such a boat consist of: a hard seat with a cushion and two wooden struts, the ends of which are protected by pieces of aluminum tubes, which are inserted into special holes on the internal sides sides Before fishing, the spacers and seat are inserted into place, ensuring rigidity of the structure.

Such homemade boat It’s comfortable because the bottom is hard – it’s good to sit on. The sides are not afraid of hooks and snags... The only disadvantages include some instability. Those. inflatable boat It is extremely difficult to turn over, and even if you scoop it up, it will remain afloat. In such a duralumin you need to behave carefully and avoid sudden maneuvers. By the way, my neighbor has been spinning from such a boat for many years and claims that it is more convenient than any inflatable one. I agree with him in many respects.

In addition, such a boat is assembled faster than an inflatable one. There is no need to download anything here.