Drawings of a catfish boat from plywood. Homemade motor boat

Although the construction of a motorboat with plywood sheathing and a traditional hull design - with a transverse set and longitudinal rails along the grooves on the keel, cheekbone and along the upper edge of the bead - is not too difficult, it still requires certain skills, care and accuracy when working. First, the builder will have to mark out the outlines of the frames in full size - break the plaza, then assemble the frame frames or strong assembly patterns across the plaza, finally, build a solid slipway, precisely position and align the entire transverse set on it, and then - the longitudinal set (keel, stringer, fenders), remove the bead from the rails, and only after that you can start adjusting the outer sheathing sheets and installing them in place. In general, the work turns out to be quite laborious; it is required to occupy any assembly room for a long time, which can present a problem for a city dweller.

Meanwhile, there is a simpler technological method for assembling small plywood boats, which does not require the manufacture of a slipway and a large number of transverse frames or patterns - construction of a boat using the "stitching and gluing" method... This method with the use of copper wire clips and fiberglass tapes has been successfully tested by our amateur shipbuilders in the construction of small rowing and sailing boats (see, for example, the description of the construction of a yacht tuz) or the “Crab” boat). We suggest using the same “stitching and gluing” method for the construction of a four-seater motor boat.

The difference between this method of building boats by the “stitching and gluing” method from the traditional one is that the outlines of the boat's hull are obtained during its assembly thanks to pre-cut sheathing sheets, and the assembly of the hull consists in joining these sheets along the edges. In this case, it is not required to build a slipway - a flat surface of the floor or an open air area is enough. The work performed itself no longer requires great art. The residence time of the housing during assembly in the room can be minimized. All workpieces and parts can be stored in an apartment in a "flat form" and take the volumetric shape of a vessel literally in 3-4 working days.

"Som" - a small cabin motorboat with moderately keeled bottom contours, which can be used for fishing trips or for weekend tourism. "Faceted" hull contours, made up of long sheets of outer skin and deckhouse coamings, make it possible to apply the above-mentioned method of stitching and at the same time ensure sufficient rigidity of a practically set-free hull. The bulkhead of the cabin, only one frame, transom, the structure of the aft sofa and the sub-engine niche give the hull shape and strength. The bottom sheets are already reinforced by four stringer strips and intermediate floor supports for the flooring after the end of the cladding assembly. This is necessary so that when sailing on waves, the plywood bottom does not start working like a thin membrane: with constant multiple bends of the skin plates, fiberglass joints along the grooves - along the keel and cheekbone - can, if not collapse, then lose their tightness.

increase
1 - inner lining of coaming and recession, δ = 6; 2 - facing strip, 15x25, oak; 3 - rail 25x25; 4 - 25x30 rail for fastening the steering seat; 5 - plexiglass, δ = 5 ~ 6; 6 - breshtuk δ = 20, pine; 7 - stem, δ = 24; 8 - beams 16x60; 9 - support rail 25x30; 10 - rail 16x32; 11 - bed flooring, δ = 4 ~ 6; 12 - flora 20x135; 13 - bottom stringer, 20x25; 14 - sub-engine niche flooring; 15 - rail 16x55; 16 - knit, δ = 6; 17 - rail 16x32; 18 - beams 16x55, glue from nine strips 16x6; 19 - door frame-platband, 16x55; 20 - transom harness 32x32; 21 - transom, δ = 8 ~ 12; 22 - transom knit, δ = 6; 23 - sub-motor board, 160x32; 24 - rail 25x25; 25 - collar 25x25, oak; 26 - rail 20x25; 27 - locker bulkhead, δ = 4 ~ 6; 28 - felling coaming, δ = 6; 29 - side sheathing sheet; 30 - bottom sheathing sheet; 31 - suture edge, 16x75.


increase

For cladding, it is advisable to purchase a 5-layer (aviation) waterproof plywood with a thickness of 6 mm. You will need 14-15 of its sheets of standard sizes 1525x1525 mm.

Work begins with joining all sheet blanks to the desired length. The best way is to glue the sheet with epoxy glue (or other waterproof glue) "on a mustache"; the necessary recommendations can be found in the book or, for example, in the article about the construction of the windsurfer "Flying Fish", published in "KiYa" # 82. Then, on the inside of each sheet, straight mutually perpendicular lines are applied to mark the contours according to the sketches given; these lines will also be needed for control during the subsequent assembly of the case. Smooth curves of the edges can be drawn along the marked points using a thin flexible strip at least 3 m long.

Sheets are cut along the edges with a hacksaw with a fine tooth and pierced with a plane in such a way that when stitching, the edges are joined with as little clearance as possible; the planes of the ends of the plywood have to be cut "at an angle" (as the shipbuilders say - to remove the bevel from the edges).

Parts of the transom, bulkhead and frame are cut out from the remnants of plywood sheets. When assembling the body, these nodes play the role of transverse patterns.

The assembly begins with joining a pair of bottom sheathing sheets along the keel groove. Departing from the edge of the keel by 6 mm, a line is drawn on both sheets, which will serve as a center line for drilling holes for wire clips. First, the edges of the sheets to be joined are fastened after 75 mm. At the bow, where the mating edges form the stem line, it is better to reduce the pitch between the staples. In one of the edges to be joined, holes can be drilled immediately along the entire length, and in the edge of the second sheet, it is better to drill holes in place - sequentially, in sections 500-600 mm long, otherwise, when bending the edges along a curved line, the distances between the holes may turn out to be mismatched.

Staples are made from copper wire with a diameter of about 2 mm; After cutting pieces of wire about 40 mm long and bending them in the form of deep staples, the clips are inserted from the inside of the casing into the holes and the ends are twisted from the outside with pliers. At first, there is no need to try to bring together the edges of the sheets to be joined too tightly - this will need to be done immediately before pasting the grooves with fiberglass.

a - wire upsetting; b - the connection is ready for pasting with plastic; c - pasting the connection from the inside.

It is better to start setting the staples from the stern, and when the staples stand at the length of the groove of 1-1.5 m, it is recommended to temporarily install the transom in place - it will help to give the bottom the required deadrise and, during further work, get the correct longitudinal contour of the keel. Later it will also be possible to temporarily "bait" the bulkhead of the cabin and the frame in the bow of the boat. Having passed the entire keel groove in this way, you need to make sure that the contours and the tightness of the plywood edges fit, twist the wire in places where an excessive gap appears.

Then both sheets of side siding are put in place; they are tied to the set with the help of clamps, a strong cord and studs, and then their edges are connected to the edges of the bottom sheets along the cheekbone, working from the transom in sections of 500-600 mm alternately on both sides.

After tightening the brackets, the temporarily supplied transverse set can be removed, having previously marked the position of the floras on the bottom skin, and on the floras - the places of cutouts for the passage of the longitudinal strips - stringers. Stringer blanks are put in place on glue and nails driven through the skin in a checkerboard pattern for a secure fit of the rail to the skin along the entire face. In the nose, where the bend turns out to be large, it is better to put rivets or screws.

Staples are rather mounting elements than fastening sheathing sheets for the entire duration of the subsequent operation of the boat. The main strength of the joints is given by fiberglass, which is formed using thin fiberglass tapes glued with epoxy glue in several layers on both sides of the joint. To get a dense layer of fiberglass without air bubbles and peeling from the plywood, it is necessary to carefully sink the wire of the staples into the wood, which protrudes from the inside of the body in the form of "bridges" above the groove. This can be done with a hammer and chisel with a rounded chopping part or other similar tool; in this case, the seam receives an additional seal.

Bonding of the joints starts from the inside of the skin. Before gluing the first fiberglass tape, it is useful to limit the width of the binder strip by applying adhesive tape on both sides of the groove. A pre-prepared binder (epoxy resin - 100 parts by weight; polyethylene polyamine - 10 parts by weight; dibutyl phthalate - 15 parts by weight, or other components according to the instructions for using the resin available from the boat builders) is applied with a brush, then a dry tape of fiberglass. In this case, the tape is simply rolled out, but not stretched. Outside, the fiberglass is tapped with a brush dipped in a binder until the tape is uniformly impregnated - at the same time it becomes transparent. Air bubbles must be carefully removed, otherwise they will subsequently cause delamination of the plastic and filtration of water.

It is advisable to use factory-made tape - it is widely used for insulation work. It is only necessary to check that the fiberglass is not impregnated with a sizing agent; if it has high humidity, you will have to ignite the tape in the oven of the gas stove.

It is enough to apply three layers of tape on both sides of the sheathing in order to obtain an equal-strength connection with the plywood. If, when the first layer is applied, the binder protrudes from the outside of the joint, this indicates good impregnation of the joint. Layers must be applied, slightly shifting towards the board in relation to the previous one, so that an overlap of 10-15 mm is obtained along the edge. If the tapes have to be cut from fiberglass ourselves, you can make the upper layers wider in advance. The ends of individual pieces of tape should also be overlapped.

When the fiberglass is gelatinized, you can remove the adhesive tape and leave the housing for 24 hours until the joint is completely solidified.

The next stage of construction is to put in place (with glue and screws) the transverse set of the hull and the deckhouse coamings, which are connected to the upper edges of the side skin on paper clips in exactly the same way as already described.

The builder is given the opportunity to choose one of two design options for the bow of the boat above the waterline. You can either sew both edges of the beads with paper clips and not put any stem, or make a stem from a board, as shown in the drawing, and attach the nose edges of the beads to it with glue and screws. It all depends on whether the builder likes the blunt bow of the boat or prefers to make it sharp.

Before gluing the grooves from the outside, you need to bite off the protruding twists of the wire with pliers as close as possible to the surface of the sheathing, and saw down the remaining ends of the wire flush with the plywood. Then along the groove, a bounding adhesive tape is laid and the fiberglass is glued as described above.

Upon completion of the design of all longitudinal joints, it remains to mount all the furnishings inside the wheelhouse and cockpit, and then draw in place and put on paper clips the roof of the wheelhouse made of plywood with a thickness of 5-6 mm. If there are difficulties with the bending of the roof, cut from one solid sheet, it can be cut along the DP and connected on a longitudinal rail - a carlengs that reinforces the roof of the deckhouse.

Outside, it is recommended to glue the bottom with a continuous layer of fiberglass so that its edges go to the sides slightly above the cheekbones. When processing all surfaces covered with fiberglass, it should be remembered that the resin layer must not be removed and the fiberglass fabric is not exposed: in this case, the glass threads will begin to filter water through the capillary channels between the fibers and the edges of the plywood in the joints closed with plastic on both sides will soon begin to rot. Therefore, such places should be carefully putty with epoxy putty.

When finalizing the boat, one should not forget about such details as the layouts that shape the upper edges of the coamings in the cockpit, transom and recess bulkheads; flanges along the sides; a metal strip on the stem (it is advisable to extend it along the entire length of the keel). In addition to decorative purposes, these parts protect the body from abrasion and impact, cover the edges of the plywood from moisture penetration between the layers.

D. Antonov, “Boats and Yachts”, no. 83.

Any kind of watercraft, be it a flat boat, boat or yacht, gives a certain feeling of freedom, which is now available to many. It would seem that quite recently, home-made plywood boats have just ascended to their peak of popularity, but since then a lot of ways of performing such structures and methods of processing plywood products have appeared.

Since the proposed design will be small, the construction of a boat from plywood will not cause any difficulties. It is enough just to stock up on materials and tools, as well as make the appropriate calculations.

Description of the required materials and tools

The advantages of a material such as plywood is not worth listing, since many have probably already encountered the advantages of plywood products.

Note! Plywood boat projects are made of FSF grade material. The thickness of the sheets used varies between 0.5-1.5 cm, depending on the purpose of the structural part, which will be made of them.

Plywood products of the FSF brand are distinguished by a high level of resistance to moisture. Nevertheless, in the process of operation, your cabin boat made of plywood will be additionally processed, and more than once. Pay special attention to the quality of the material when purchasing it. The surface of plywood sheets must be completely free of any defects, damage in the form of cracks and chips, as well as delamination and all kinds of knots that are often found on wood. This point is extremely important, since the final result of your work, as well as the reliability of the structure itself, depends on the quality level of the material.

Experts who have already had to deal with such a task as making a boat out of plywood will say that working with a large sheet is much more convenient and comfortable, and, therefore, faster. Therefore, give preference to large-format plywood products.

Supporting materials:

1. Edged planed wood, which will be needed to equip seats, internal spacing and sides. To make a functional boat out of plywood, opt for light woods.
2. A plastic clamp or thin wire that will be used as a suture material to connect the various parts that belong to the boat's skin. You can use nylon fishing line, but in this case, it should have a decent thickness.
3. An adhesive composition for sealing joints formed at the joints of parts. It is best to use mixtures based on polymer resins.

Of course, people who know how to build a boat from plywood can supplement this list with other materials. But in this case, an example is given of the minimum set of additional materials. Most often, all kinds of varnishing compositions are used as additions, as well as specialized impregnations that prevent rotting and swelling of a structure that has been in contact with water for a long time.

In addition, for pasting the seams between parts, you may need a material such as fiberglass, which can be replaced with an analogue - fiberglass.

And of course, do not forget about the external aesthetics of your product. For this, paint is also suitable, which will allow you to hide all the seams and achieve the desired color.

The set of tools is standard in almost every case:

• electric or manual jigsaw;
• a set of blades of various sizes included with the jigsaw;
• a saw designed for working with wood;
• Sander;
• pliers;
• brushes for various purposes: for varnishing, painting, impregnating;
• hammer;
• chisel.

As for the dimensions that a plywood boat can have, the design drawings can be very diverse, so one can hardly advise anything specific.

However, you can stick with the standard sizes:

• total length of the structure - 3.5 m;
• boat width - 1.35 m;
• the height of the sides is 0.5 m.

Having picked up a suitable design drawing, it is necessary to transfer all the parts to the plywood, after which the sheet is cut according to this markup. You need an electric jigsaw to complete this task, as other tools can damage the material and the cut line will be uneven and chipped.

Since in our case a boat is being made, its transom must be pasted over with an additional layer of fiberglass and, if possible, strengthen its structure. To do this, you can use hardwood planks. In addition, self-tapping screws will help you to strengthen the fasteners.

Note! If you have not yet fully figured out how to make a boat out of plywood, follow the advice of professionals: the stage of designing and calculating the carrying capacity is very important, because having made a mistake with the basic parameters of the vessel, the result of your work can hardly be called functional.

As for practical recommendations, before assembly, all structural elements should be finalized using a planer. It is preferable to use an electric tool. After that, you need to make the appropriate holes, which will be used later when you sew together the boat hull.

To facilitate the installation of the transom, you can use special trestles that you can easily build yourself. Then the bottom is fixed, then the side parts of the boat.

Note! These details necessarily come down to the bow. Remember to check the location and symmetry.

The sheathing parts and the sheathing material itself can be fixed in two different ways. In the first case, it can be suture material, in the second case, you can use a special adhesive composition. In the process, you will have to manually line up the edges of the plywood, while achieving a certain angle.

It is necessary to constantly monitor the correspondence of dimensions, otherwise, as a result, you may have a large gap between the parts, to eliminate which you will have to not only cut the frames, but also disassemble the entire structure.

Frames are ribbed parts that achieve the required level of rigidity for your boat's frame. These parts are cut out of 6mm plywood sheets and installed in 0.8m increments.You should end up with 4 pieces.

Do not underestimate the importance of such a detail as a fender located along the side line. It can be placed externally or internally. If you have stocked up with clamps, then these devices can provide you with invaluable help and greatly simplify your work. If you do not have a sufficient number of clamps, it is advisable to fix at least control points with them in the process of pressing the fender. It will not be superfluous to use binders that can be placed between the clamps.

After completing the above work, you can start installing the frame. If you are not afraid to take risks and have fragments of plywood remnants at your disposal, this part can be made not whole. The main thing is not to forget at the same time, to form a hole in the middle of the frame.

If you cover this area with a deck, you can end up with a small enclosed area that can be used as storage for your belongings. You can also use leftover plywood to make the deck.

If you want to know in more detail how a plywood boat is made, the video review below will help you understand all the intricacies of this process.

Carrying out internal and gluing works

To carry out glue work, you will need to prepare a mixture consisting of epoxy resin and aerosil mixed in equal proportions. The corner zones of the bottom, transom and sides should be reinforced with wooden fillets or corners.

Sizing of fiberglass tapes is carried out on the areas of internal seams, using the previously prepared mixture. They are also used when fixing frames.

At the end of the gluing work, the bottom flooring, seats, oarlocks and other details that may be provided for in your vessel project are mounted.

After that, the structure is left to dry, and then all external work is performed on cleaning and pasting the seams with fiberglass.

In order to carry out a high-quality painting, you should:

• perform the surface degreasing procedure;
• cover the material with a special compound;
• apply a putty to eliminate all errors, if any;
• apply a layer of primer.

The dye composition can be absolutely anything, but it is preferable to use a pigment dye designed for working with wood. Using brushes instead of a spray gun will improve the staining result.

Fiberglass has become one of the common materials for building a boat with your own hands. With the help of such raw materials, you can independently design a boat of rather large dimensions: from 7.5 to 18 m in length.

General information

One of the most common fiberglass boats is the WaveRunner-285. It is considered a full-fledged planing vessel, which is quite suitable for sea trips or tourism. The ship, which is characterized by the fact that it has an increased freeboard, as well as a rather large width, is also convenient in that a comfortable saloon with an adjacent toilet and galley can be placed in its bow. In the stern of the boat, you can make a double cabin with your own hands, the location of which will be located strictly under the cockpit. The unit control section will be located above the engine compartment, and it will also be protected from wind and splashing water by sloping glass.

Boat power

When equipping a boat with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account which engine will be installed on it later. Specifically, this model is designed to install either one or two motors. However, it is important to take into account that the total power for the normal functioning of the facility should be in the range from 250 to 500 liters. with. They should also have a direct reverse gear, which will allow a speed of 15-30 knots, which in km / h ranges from 28 to 56. In addition, the vessel may also have propulsion systems or additional outboard motors.

It is worth noting that building a boat with your own hands saves from 50 to 75% of the amount that would be spent if the unit was purchased at the shipyard, and not built independently. It is also worth noting that the above technology for the construction of a small vessel is not the last word in shipbuilding. This is only a proven practice, a well-established method that will allow you to design an acceptable fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Beginning of work

The start of the construction of a small fiberglass ship is no different from the construction of any other material. The first step is to break down theoretical frames on a plywood board or on a sheet of cardboard, as well as a stem bypass. The breakdown should be in the actual size of these parts.

It is also important to note that the shield or plaza on which the breakdown is taking place must have a width corresponding to the width of the boat, plus 300 mm. The height of this object must be 400 mm higher than the intended height of the cabinet. Experts recommend that you first create drawings of boats, on which all the necessary details will be marked with an indication of the dimensions. This is done in order not to make mistakes in the manufacturing process.

Another important detail is that the upper ends of all frames must be extended to the height that is depicted as a horizontal line on the plaza. It is the perpendicular line of the DP and it is called the Shergel line.

Assembling patterns

During the work on the plazy marking of the patterns, it is very important to take into account such factors as the thickness of the strips and the thickness of the sheet metal, which will be used as sheathing of the inner surface of the matrix. In other words, when drawing up a drawing of the boat and subsequent assembly, it is necessary to put inward that distance from the theoretical line of each of the frames, which will correspond to the thickness of the rails and sheet metal in total. It is this markup option that should be used when cutting out patterns and their further assembly.

Separate parts of the cross patterns must be connected using materials such as overlays and knits made from pieces of plywood with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm. A similar indicator is suitable for a boat, the length of which will be in the region of 10 m. It is best to glue the overlays to the patterns, and then additionally fasten them with screws or nail them.

How to make a boat: sheathing and matrix

Further, before collecting the existing patterns in the matrix, you need to attend to the creation of the outer skin of the structure. In order to create the most comfortable conditions when working with the outer skin of the boat, it is necessary to provide a detail that ensures the tilt of the matrix on both sides of the ship.

If you do everything right, then there will be an opportunity to work while standing on the floor next to the workpieces. The matrix itself, in any case, must have a very strong and rigid structure. This is necessary so that during the construction of the unit, the shape of its body is not distorted.

How to make a boat with a solid die? Large structures are assembled from longitudinal beams, which will represent the horizontal base of the boat. Inside the resulting frame, it is necessary to install walkways that will facilitate the work of gluing the body. After the longitudinal beams, which are the base of the matrix, have been installed, the future position of all patterns is marked on them, and steel wire is pulled along the beams, which will be the string denoting the ship's DP.

Installation of patterns

It is recommended to start the process of mounting blanks from the midship frame. Before securing this element securely, it is very important to make sure that the piece is strictly vertical and perpendicular to the DP. It is attached to the beams, which are the base. After all the other blanks were mounted, the stand was installed in the DP of the transom, and all the elements were braced to avoid any movement, you can proceed to such a stage as sheathing the inner surface of the matrix using longitudinal rails.

To accomplish this task, material is most often used with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm and a width of 50 mm. For equipping the bottom of the boat, it is better to use rails with the same thickness, but with a greater width - up to 100 mm.

Aluminum watercraft

The low cost of raw materials, as well as lathes, led to the fact that many owners sewed on to the fact that they independently make certain parts and elements from metal. It is believed that the production of an aluminum boat is one of the most difficult tasks, which is practically impossible, and at the plant they are created without difficulty, since they have special tools for this. However, this is not the case.

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of this type of boat independently is the production of its patterns from metal. This term is understood as marking how exactly it is necessary to cut the necessary parts from aluminum.

In the manufacture of such a unit from metal, the whole process is reduced to the assembly of a kind of designer. This is relevant if the workpieces are not cut out on their own, since this still requires a lot of work skill and high-precision equipment, and a computerized model of the boat is purchased. Yes, the cost of such a model will also be quite high, but if you compare it with the purchase of a ready-made vessel, you will see significant savings.

High-speed small craft

Another option for a vessel that you can make yourself is a speedboat. A rather important part in the construction of this type of unit is the choice of the engine and its location. You can place this part in the cockpit of the vessel, and the part that will protrude can be closed with a hood.

This location was not chosen by chance. It will expand the range of devices suitable for installation. Engines from cars such as Zhiguli or Volga can be used. In addition to these models, it is quite possible to install a diesel engine from a tractor. However, this is only possible if additional hot air extraction is provided. To do this, you can use a fake chimney.

Air-cooled engines can also be installed. Since the speedboat must have good stability when moving quickly through the water, it is recommended to place this part closer to the center of gravity of the entire boat. The heavy weight of the engine will give greater stability to the entire structure.