Hand excavation drills by hands. Making a hand drill at home

Digging holes under the pillars with a shovel with your own hands is a laborious and long process. This can take more than one day if a decision is made to build a fence. The way out of this difficult situation is to do everything with the help of a garden drill. The device is simple, does not require the use of an energy carrier, that is, it is a purely manual tool. It's easy to work with it, no big efforts. As practice shows, in 15 minutes you can dig a hole in the ground with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of one meter. That is, in just a couple of hours, you can completely prepare the places for installing the pillars.

Manufacturers today garden tool offer a fairly wide range of hand drills. They cost differently, but if the work they are doing is one-time, then it might be worth making it yourself. How difficult is this creative process? Basically, for anyone home master who are friends with simple locksmith tools and can handle electric welding, this task is quite feasible. Let's look at how you can make a garden hand drill from scrap materials.

Required materials and tools

What materials will be required for this:

• Metal pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm.
• Strip 3-5 mm thick.
• Metal sheet 3-4 mm or a disc from a circular, you can use a cutter.
• Bolts with M6 nuts, if a drill with removable knives will be manufactured.

Instruments:

• Welding machine complete with electrodes;
• Hammer;
• Hacksaw for metal or grinder;
• Roulette.

Attention! Pay attention to the inner diameter of the cutter, it should be slightly larger than the outer diameter of the pipe by about 5-7 mm.

Manufacturing process

First of all, the length of the hand drill for the posts is determined. Roughly, you can take within 1.5 m. Therefore, a piece of this size is cut off from the pipe. Pruning is done with a grinder.

Highly important element- this is the tip of the drill. It acts as a guiding element. But if we come to the issue of ease of drilling soil (especially hard), then it is worth making a small drill from the tip. Therefore, it is better to make the element itself from a metal strip 5 mm thick. How to do it right.

• A segment of 10 cm in length is cut off from a strip 5 mm thick and 20 mm wide.
• One end is sharpened under the cone. This can be done with a grinder by putting an emery disc on it.
• The other end is turned on both sides so that it can easily enter the pipe. Turning length - 5 cm.
• The tip is inserted into the pipe and welded with electric welding from all sides.
• You can change the design of the tip (improve) by making a small drill out of it. To do this, you will have to heat the device and shape it into a screw, something in the form of a corkscrew.

It is the corkscrew design that will help increase the ability of the element to bite into hard soil rocks. It is important to set the direction of the twist precisely here. It should match the angle of inclination of the main blades of the drill. Usually, the tool is twisted clockwise, which means that the sharp edge should be located on the right side.

There is another option, how to make a drill tip with your own hands. To do this, you will have to cut the end of the pipe in the longitudinal direction to a depth of 3-5 cm. This is done with a grinder. There should be four or five cuts, between which the same distance (or approximately the same) is left. Now, with hammer blows, it is necessary to adjust the edges of the cuts to the center of the pipe diameter. After that, the joints of the cut strips are scalded with electrodes, and the end of the device is sharpened with a grinder.

Now you can proceed to the installation of the main knives. They can be made by hand from different cutting working tools. The above listed cutters and discs from the circular. Basically, this list is longer. If no cutting discs were found, then the knives can be made from sheet steel 3-4 mm thick. A circle is simply cut out of a sheet of the required diameter, by the way, this can be done both with a grinder and electric welding. Then a hole is made in it with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. And after that, the steel circle is cut into two even halves.

You can first cut the circle in half, and then cut semicircles under the pipe on the two halves. It is important here to finish the process by sanding all the raw edges. The outer edges of the half-discs are sharpened to a certain sharpness. Then both knives are welded to the pipe. There are a couple of guidelines here:

• The distance from the point where the tip is welded to the place where the knives are installed is 10-15 cm.
• The knives themselves are installed one above the other, the distance between them is 5 cm, the angle of inclination of the installation is approximately 20 °.
• It is necessary to weld the disks so that their working edge is directed downward with the tip, that is, when drilling, the drill should easily cut into the ground.

It remains only to weld a small piece of pipe perpendicular to the drill pipe. This will be a pen. Its length is 50 cm, but here everyone chooses for themselves. To prevent the effort of human hands from disrupting the welding between the two pipes, it is necessary to weld the kerchiefs cut from the metal sheet on both sides.

You can modify the drill design, or rather, improve. Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig holes for posts longer than 1.5 m. Therefore, it is recommended to add a couple of additional pipes to the instrument, which will build up the instrument itself along the length. How to make these elements correctly.

• First: it is necessary to modify the handle of the drill, making it removable. Therefore, it is not welded tightly, but made in the form of the letter "T". In this case, the section of pipe that will be inserted into the drill barrel must have a diameter less than the diameter of the barrel. And at the same time, the handle should enter the barrel unhindered, but not so much as to reduce the strength characteristics of the tool itself.
• Secondly: in the barrel of the handle you need to make two through holes perpendicular to each other. The distance between them is 5-6 cm.
• Thirdly: exactly the same holes with a diameter of 7 mm must be made on the barrel of the drill at the entry point of the handle. It turns out that both elements will be connected with two M6 bolts.
• Fourthly: several pipes 1.5 m long are prepared, corresponding to the diameter of the handle barrel, in which all the same holes are drilled from both ends. Locations as on the barrel of the handle.

To lengthen the manual drill two or three times, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening bolts, remove the handle, insert the pipe into the pipe, fasten them with bolts, install the handle on the free end of the extended drill, attaching it with two bolts.

As for the diameter of the holes for the posts, then it can also be changed if the knives are made removable. To do this, at the place where the knives are installed, it is necessary to weld two shelves cut from a 5 mm thick strip. You can make the shelf in the form of a circle with an internal hole for the tool pipe. A circle with a diameter of 8-10 cm is cut from a sheet of iron, a hole is made in it for a pipe, and this element is installed and welded to the trunk. In it, you first need to make four through holes, two on each side. Removable knives will be attached to them.

Attention! Removable knives are fastened with M6 bolts. The installation of the bolts should be done with threads upwards towards the handle. They just in this position will not interfere with the process of drilling the soil.

You can increase the efficiency of the drill by installing a additional element... This is, in fact, a flat cutter that will loosen the soil before cutting in the knives and center the drill itself. A small addition will make it possible to increase the drilling speed, especially in hard soils, and in places where there are a large number of plant roots in the ground.

It is not difficult to make such a flat cutter with your own hands. This requires a plate with a thickness of 4-5 mm and a width of 30 mm. Two pieces of 80 mm long are cut from it. They are welded opposite each other to the drill barrel. The right edge of the additional knives is sharpened. To prevent heavy loads from breaking the plane cutter, you can add two metal scarves to their mount.

In principle, this is how you can make a hand drill for digging holes for pillars with your own hands. Let's face it, but it won't take very long to make this instrument, two hours, no more.

An earthen drill is a device for drilling holes in the ground. Those who start country house construction often need such a thing as earth drill, which you can buy, but you can do it yourself.

Such a tool is usually used to install various supports, as well as posts for structures and fences. Pits, holes, holes in a summer cottage are needed in the most different places... Therefore, a hand drill is simply vital in conditions garden work... With this versatile tool, you can make planting holes, and it is also much easier to arrange drainage systems and wells.

Earth drill - is it worth the candle?

If on a garden and suburban area are used, mainly, only quality tools, for example, a hand drill, then almost any holes can be made in just a couple of minutes. It should be said that factory-made manual drills may not meet the requirements necessary for a particular construction site. It can have a shallow immersion depth, it can have limitations associated with the insufficient diameter of the knife attachments.

Commercial hand drills that are commercially available come in a variety of configurations. For example, to be a completely one-piece structure, while having only a certain length. They can also lend themselves to complete or partial disassembly and at the same time have a set of extension rods, and, of course, have various attachments.

As for the nozzles, here you also need to know that they can be different: two-bladed or with a screw shape, while resembling a worm. In order for the construction of the drill to serve long enough and properly, the knives are usually made of steel alloys with very high strength, and to facilitate drilling they are made with cutters on the sides.

The parts of the drill, which are designed to drill, can consist of several layers. Usually, an earthen manual drill starts with blades, with a smaller diameter, and then going to increase.

An earth hand drill in construction is a very useful tool that, depending on the type of work, can be subject to transformation:

• function of increasing the length of the stem;
• the ability to change nozzles;
• the function of changing handles from small and short sizes to the longest and with large diameters.

It is worth saying that depending on the configuration in the minimum version (with three nozzles and a short stem), as well as in the maximum versions, the price of industrial drills can change significantly, upward.

It is for this reason that it is worth thinking about how to make an earthen drill with your own hands. This can significantly save your budget, and if it is made correctly, it can additionally gain in functionality.

How to make a drill - the process of selecting tools and parts

There should not be any difficulties in making such a simple tool as a homemade earth drill. The main thing here is to choose the right components.

Required tools:

• welding machine;
• an electric drill, which should have a rich set of drills for metal surfaces;
• it will also not be superfluous to have an abrasive wheel, most likely, some elements will have to be ground using a machine;
• in addition, you may need various locksmith equipment.

For the manufacture of a stem, you can use fittings or a pipe, which will be at least two meters long. And in order to understand what the diameter of the pipe should be, you can take an old drill (about thirteen millimeters) and try it on the pipe. The diameter of the rod or pipe must be less than 15 mm.

Excavation Hand Drill - Step-by-Step Assembly

Many advice from experienced professionals in this matter indicate that it is best to weld all the elements for reliability.

• First you need to weld the horizontal handle, completely perpendicular to the stem itself, and give the end on the opposite side a sharp shape. The old drill needs to be welded to inside pipes.

• The most important point in the manufacture of a drill should be that the stem must fit well into the ground, thereby helping the upper (auger) part.

• You can use a disc to create knives circular saw, which is cut into two halves and then welded at an angle of approximately 120 degrees. You just need to remember that the edges of the disc are jagged, so they need to be grinded off.

• To reduce the effort to a minimum when earthworks ah, you can weld a few more discs to the rod, then the drill will enter the ground "like clockwork".

• If it is necessary to extend the stem, you can come up with a bushing system, and also think about other threaded connections.

There is nothing better than making a tool with your own hands. And most importantly, when implementing an idea, you can safely experiment, increasing the functionality and other features of your instrument.

If in your country house there is no water supply, and water supply networks do not pass nearby, then the only option is to drill a well or build a well. If the depth of the aquifers is very large, and the soil is too hard, then you cannot do without a team of drillers with equipment. But with a shallow location of water layers and relatively soft soil, you can cope on your own. To make a shallow hole in soft ground, you can use homemade drill... Moreover, the maximum well depth cannot exceed 20 m. There are several types of drills. We will look at how to make them with your own hands. A detailed video self-drilling instructions will help you understand the process better.

Not always for small water supply country house or summer cottages, the construction of an expensive artesian well is justified. For seasonal water supply of a small private house or summer cottage, it will be quite enough to make a shallow well for sand or a well.

Among the main conditions hand drilling you can list:

• bedding groundwater at shallow depths (up to 20 m);
• the soil should not contain rocks, that is, a hand drill can only cope with sandy and clay soils.

To make a drill for a well with your own hands, you must have at least some experience in plumbing work. Using drawings and photos from the network, you can independently make three types of homemade drills.

For self-fulfillment wells or search for water for a well, two types of drilling are suitable:

• shock rope;
• rotational.

The first type of work is convenient because it does not require the use of complex special devices. It is enough to make a simple drilling rig from scrap materials. Moreover, you can drill a well alone without the involvement of assistants.

The essence of the percussion-rope drilling method is as follows:

1. To make a well, a heavy pipe with a pointed end is dropped into it from a considerable height. It is tied to the frame with a rope.
2. Under the weight of the pipe, part of the soil is separated and gets inside the device.
3. Then the drill is again brought to the surface and dropped from a height into the borehole again.
4. During drilling, the wellbore gradually deepens and the soil accumulates in the percussion device.
5. After making several blows, the pipe must be removed to the surface using a winch and cleaned of accumulated soil. To do this, the product is pulled away from the well and cleaned by blows of a heavy hammer.
6. The well continues to be drilled in this way until they reach the aquifer when the desired depth is reached.

Rotary drilling involves the use of a drill that cuts into the ground and lifts the rock upward as it rotates. It will take two people to drill this way. They should stand on the sides of the drill rod and twist it with metal pipe or scrap.

This drilling method allows you to quickly make a well without the use of special equipment. For work, you only need a drill of the required diameter, rods to increase the length as you go into the ground, pipes or crowbars for the wrench.

For rotary drilling, one of two types of drill is usually used: spiral, spoon. How to make them, we will consider in our article further. And you can learn how to properly drill a well with a hand drill from the video at the end of the article.

Making a percussion drill

We will describe how to make a percussion drill for a well and build a simple drill rig. To do this, you should follow our instructions:

1. First, you need to make a tripod over the drilling site. Usually a structure with a height of 2-3 meters is sufficient.
2. We fix the rope block on its top.
3. To lift the drill, we will use an electric winch or with manual control... We attach it to one of the tripod supports.
4. To make a hand-held percussion drill, you need a thick-walled pipe. Moreover, its diameter should be equal to the width of the wellbore.
5. The upper end of the pipe is welded with a thick strip of metal. In this case, in the center of this plug, it is necessary to make a hole equal to the thickness of the rope used to hang the pipe.
6. The lower edge of the pipe is sharpened. In this case, you can simply sharpen the pipe wall, or you can make a toothed thread. To increase the strength of the striking part of the structure, it is better to harden the sharpening in a muffle furnace.
7. To make it easier to remove the soil accumulated during drilling from the device, its upper part is equipped with radial holes or slots.

Tip: if you have the opportunity to install a powerful winch, then to increase the efficiency of drilling, the pipe can be additionally weighted. For this, removable steel weights are installed on its upper part.

Making a spiral (screw) drill

The second name of the spiral drill is auger. Such a drill for a well with their own hands is made from a pipe with thick walls, which serves as a vertical rod, carbide cutting tool at its bottom and spiral turns from the bottom along the bar. For the manufacture of turns, hardened steel is used.

To drill a hole, you need to rotate the tool. In this case, the cutting edge will cut through the rock, and the hardened steel turns will begin to push the soil upward. Thus, the ejected soil will create additional pressure in the direction of drilling. Thus, during operation, the rock will accumulate between the turns. To improve the efficiency of drilling, it is necessary to periodically remove their wells and clean the turns from accumulated soil.

The simplest version of such a drill is a disk drill. Before making a drill for a well, you need to prepare the necessary materials:

• thick-walled pipe;
• steel disc with a thickness of 0.4-0.6 cm (the diameter of the disc must be equal to the required hole width).

We carry out work on the manufacture of a disk drill in the following order:

1. The bottom of the prepared pipe must be sharpened. Sometimes a sharpened tip is welded in instead. It is better to make it from hardened steel.
2. The steel disc is sawn in two halves. Outer side halves are sharpened evenly or serrated sharp cuts are made.
3. Both halves of the metal disc are welded to the vertical bar. In this case, it is necessary to retreat from the sharpened tip by 12.5 cm.Two parts of the disc are welded with different sides... Moreover, in relation to the longitudinal axis, they should be located at an angle of 70 degrees. As a result, the angle between the halves of the disc will be 40 degrees. It is better if you consider the design of the spiral drill in the photo on the net. This will make it clearer for you.
4. A threaded sleeve is made at the upper end of the rod. It will allow the rod to be lengthened as the well is drilled.

Tip: for the manufacture of the auger, you can take not an ordinary steel disc, but a disc cut into two parts from a circular saw. The main thing is to choose the correct diameter so that it corresponds to the required hole width.

A more difficult option for one-hand execution is a screw drill. It is made from strips of steel that are heated and twisted. Moreover, the step of adjacent turns should be equal to the width of the blade.

Making a spoon drill

The bur-spoon is ideal for working in soft rocks. In this case, loosening of the soil occurs not only in the lower, but also in the lateral parts of the device. The selected soil is accumulated inside the cylindrical body. When you drill a well with such a device, you will need to periodically remove it and clean it of accumulated rock.

The bur-spoon is made from a pipe with thick walls. Moreover, its diameter is selected according to the width of the well. In addition, for manufacturing, you will need a welding machine and a set of locksmith tools. We carry out work on the manufacture of a drill in the following order:

1. Make a longitudinal cut in the pipe. The drawing shows very clearly how the hole should be located.
2. Then, with the help of a crowbar and a heavy hammer, the pipe is given the desired profile (spoon).
3. The bottom and side edges of the pipe are sharpened.
4. A drill is welded to the bottom of the structure along the central axis. It should be thick enough with a diameter of at least 1.8-3.6 cm.
5. A rod is welded to the upper end of the pipe. In this case, its axis should be shifted to the side relative to the axis of the pipe by 1-1.5 cm.
6. All cutting edges of the drill are recommended to be hardened.

Tip: the dimensions of the longitudinal cut in the pipe are selected depending on the composition of the soil. The drier and looser the soil, the smaller size cutout.

If you need a very long drill rod, there are several ways to do it:

• A good option is to use threaded couplings to connect the rods. So, inside each pipe segment, a thread is made corresponding to the diameter of the pipes. Then a threaded sleeve of the required length is made. To protect against spontaneous disconnection of elements, a cotter pin is made.
• For small pipe diameters, a bolt and nut welded to the ends of the sections can be used. However, this method is not very reliable due to the fragility of the welded joint.
• The simplest and effective method- cutting of a coupling from a piece of pipe with a larger diameter than the dimensions of the rod. Then the sleeve is welded to the end of one section, and the other section is freely inserted into the sleeve and fixed with a crosswise inserted bolt and nut.

Making a one-piece drill pipe that is too long complicates the job. Better to make a detachable connection. To do this, it is enough to use sections with a length of 100-120 cm. So it will be easy for you to choose the required length of the drill pipe and build it up as the work progresses.

• To facilitate well drilling hand tools you can use a bailer. It facilitates the process of lifting the soil to the surface, since the rock is collected in a special container.
• If the hand drill cannot be raised to the surface, you can build a lever on an elevation from barrels or logs. Thus, the drilling process will not only be facilitated, but also accelerated, because the volume of the soil raised upward can be increased.
• To reduce the labor intensity of the work and accelerate the drilling process, special devices can be used to twist the drill.
• Homemade drills can be useful to you after the construction of the well. For example, they can be used to dig a foundation for fence posts, make pile foundations, and plant plants.

You can learn how to drill a well manually from the video below:

A hand drill is required for construction when renovation work... In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or in the vegetable garden. With the help of this object, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for installing supports in the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced with any other tool when drilling wells. Few know that you can make a hand drill for poles yourself, while saving a significant amount of money. All it takes to make this irreplaceable tool is detailed instructions describing how to make a drill, the presence necessary materials, tools and of course patience.

It is convenient to use a hand auger to dig narrow holes for posts or planting trees.

It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loamy base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made of high quality materials. In this case, its service life can be unlimited.

Materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do, you need to have:

• welding machine;
• welding clamps;
• grinders with a cutting disc for iron;
• electric drills;
• pairs of gas keys;
• dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
• die holder;
• vice.

Materials for making a drill: a disc from a grinder, a drill, pipes.

As practice shows, the use in this case of simple cutting inserts with a sufficiently large diameter is unable to give the desired effect. A hand drill made from this material will take up your energy and time while drilling earth holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened looseners. In this case, a hand-made drill, made by hand, will turn out to be much more efficient, and it will take noticeably less time when working with it.

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Device

The hand drill consists of elements such as:

1. A pen.
2. Insert.
3. Cutting head.
4. Clutch.
5. Bolt with nut.
6. Cutting plates.
7. Guide rod.
8. Blade.

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Production of looseners

As for the worm version of the tool, it is quite difficult to make it yourself. With this in mind, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded-on rippers with an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the resistance of the soil is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of applied forces for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.

The purpose of the first cultivator is to crush dense soil, then cut a wider pit radius and deliver the already loosened soil to the surface of the disc cultivator.

The disc ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil upwards. In one such process, the depth of a dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, it will be quite difficult to work with a hand drill.

An automobile spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm, can become a good material for the manufacture of pre-rippers.

To sharpen the cutting edge of such a ripper, a certain angle must be observed. This element should be butt welded to the main bar, after which you can proceed to welding the next section of the bar. The next step to it (end-to-end) is to attach the second loosener element. In conclusion, it remains to weld the sharp part of the bar. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise backlash may occur.

As for the disc, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole - for its manufacture it is recommended to use a processed circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disc is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges must be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements to the main bar, while observing the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid shifting forces, due to which the dug holes can turn out to be crooked.

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Threading

At the opposite end of the rod, it is necessary to cut a thread onto which the connecting sleeve will subsequently be screwed. For this purpose, you need a vise and a special die. Clamp the bar (end up) in a strong vise, while maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the bar, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, absolutely undesirable depreciation may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to an onslaught. File the end face to form a taper. This will ensure that the die will sit correctly and evenly on the barbell. After that, you can start cutting work.

There is nothing complicated in the threading process. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If the die is stuck during work, twist it and grind down the interfering burr. After that, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The most optimal thread is considered, the length of which is 10 cm.

In the next step, a coupling is screwed onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of ​​the butting seam. On this you can safely assume that you have coped with the main part of making a manual drill with your own hands.

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Handle making

The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at right angles in a T-shape. The main bar itself can be between 40 and 50 cm long. The recommended handle width should be no more than shoulder width. The point is that the resistance of the rod to the rotating force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand drill for the poles will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and drill the ground in moderate parts in stages.

Before starting welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, while making sure that the corners are straight. Thus, you will not only save correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not move to the side. The weld should be at the end of the main rod. At this stage, you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and durability of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes all the load of efforts, do not regret the electrodes for its implementation.

The unevenness of the joint is grinded with a grinder, this will not only give the tool more aesthetic appearance but will also eliminate cuts on your hands, which you can get during the operation of the hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod, similar to the previous one.

When building a house and arranging a site, it is often required to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when arranging a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but larger diameter and depth are required for the device pile foundation... These pits are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are enough of them in stores, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, a drill with your own hands can be made of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and application

There are three main designs of earth drills:

Garden earth drills, which are easier to make. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of home-made drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not only the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in the design features. Yes, regular borax in the store are inexpensive, but they are "universal". They work well on "light" soils. " On loams, clays, marls, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is a basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a ground drill can be made of.

Materials (edit)

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4 'to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

It is easier to make blades from saw blade... In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to additionally sharpen the side edges so that the soil is cut easier.

Pico drill is made from different materials- a lot of its designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a large diameter bar. The second option is to make something like a drill from a strip of steel. And yet - a combination of the two.

Steel strip earth drill bit

Pica - one of the tip options

Combi tip for crushing rocks

And finally, about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of round pipe... Its diameter can be selected according to the girth of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld thick steel shelves at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are divorced at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves have been welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will have to be made in the blades, and they will be installed on bolts of solid diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for pits of different diameters

In the discs themselves, holes will have to be cut in the center - so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required in the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, along it - a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - a rod will need to be inserted and welded into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected bar. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Manual drills with one turn

It is also necessary to part the edges by 25-30 ° degrees. In this case, the drilling efficiency will be maximized. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades can be brought together under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

Strengthening the hand drill for drilling holes in dense soils

The blades are bent due to the fact that the steel is used unhardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, it will hardly be possible to bend it.

From the saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option... They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and strong. But such a disc cannot be bent, therefore it is cut in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

The disc is sawn in half

Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high productivity. Even used discs have a well-sharpened edge. And to make drilling even easier, the drill is also sharpened on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. Below, near the peak, the smallest are welded, higher, retreating a few centimeters - the large ones. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then such a design is optimal - it has a relatively low weight, it is easy to work with it. The process of work is as follows - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tortured to drag a small amount of soil from the depth. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

Homemade drill with soil receiver is suitable for installing poles and piles

And all these are handmade boers. They are all different high efficiency- it is much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they make a drill for wells of great depth - for water, devices of underground probes for heat pump etc.

This is what a screw auger looks like

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The discs are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole for the rod is cut out, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.

A sector is marked in the rings, cut out

The disks are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. The welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Almost ready

Drill for piles TISE

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with a soil receiver and a wider folding knife, which forms an extension in the lower part of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - a folding knife interferes with it. Therefore, in some structures it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separate folding knife with a soil receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.

A do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles is one of the options

A cut-off shovel acts as a knife here, and a land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably, when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to folding structure on bolted connections.

More complex design

Dredger - from an old propane tank. The collection of earth takes place from the bottom, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

Bottom view

This shell works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly wetted with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is "sharpened" for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more modify the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This grave contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills. As you can imagine, the dimensions are relative, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.

Shovel drill

For planting plants, it makes no sense to make a serious structure. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. They choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply the markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, you will need to cut two small fragments, cut lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

Drill for soft soils

If the ground is soft conventional design doesn't work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slots on the sides. The slits are provided cutting edges... It is better to make them from well-hardened steel.

Drill for soft soils

This drawing shows an interesting design of the handle - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden unit has to be removed often, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden auger for soil of different density

Detailed drawing in projections of the auger auger

Garden drill drawing

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