How to make an electric drill for the earth. Electric drill for earthworks: specifications, instructions, reviews

Fans of fishing in the winter season have long appreciated the benefits of using an ice screw. Both professional and novice anglers know how easy it is to drill holes in ice with this device. Naturally, you can use the ice pick in the old fashioned way, breaking through the ice, but it will greatly facilitate the process of an electric ice drill made at home. Moreover, if you have drawings and a desire, you can quickly and easily make an ice drill from a screwdriver with your own hands.

Advantages of a homemade electric ice drill

An automated home-made device made from a screwdriver has many advantages over store-bought products. The main advantages include:

• self-connection of an electric drive is much cheaper than buying a factory product;
• the manufacturing process requires a minimum of consumables and a standard set of tools;
• the improvement of a conventional drill takes place at home, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

The result of the efforts of the home master will be an excellent automated device for drilling ice of any thickness, which will turn into an indispensable assistant to the angler in winter fishing.

In order for a do-it-yourself ice drilling product to cope with the tasks, it is important to choose the right screwdriver model with high power ratings. Using a weak tool will cause problems when drilling a hole in a thick layer of ice.

Given that the ice ax must be mobile, you need to buy a power tool with a battery. Also, the electric drive must have maximum physical strength and reliability. It must withstand various loads, mechanical shocks and other troubles that happen while fishing.

A power tool for a homemade ice drill must meet the following specifications:

An excellent product is a powerful Bosch ice drill screwdriver. You can also use a good Japanese Makita brand power tool. Although it all depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the angler. The main thing is that the product is suitable for power and battery capacity.

Types of battery

Today, an autonomous electric screwdriver, which can be used for self-manufacturing of an electric ice drill, is equipped with different batteries. At the same time, the following batteries are popular:

• The lithium-ion battery is lightweight, fast charging, but is afraid of low temperatures. Plus, this battery is expensive.
• The nickel-cadmium battery is heavy, but is able to operate at extremely low temperatures, which is important for winter fishing.

Experienced anglers always take two batteries with them on the ice. To prevent the battery from draining quickly, it is better to store it under a jacket in a specially made pocket or case. The presence of two batteries allows you to significantly extend the autonomy of the screwdriver.

Electric screwdriver substitutes

Naturally, to create an electric drill for drilling ice, not only an electric screwdriver is suitable . Home craftsmen can easily adapt other tools:

• electric drill;
• electric wrench;
• chainsaw.

The latter option is convenient in that it runs on gasoline, and not on a rechargeable battery. However, without a special tool and a lathe, it is very difficult to make an ice drill from a chainsaw at home.

It is important to understand that not any ice drill model can be attached to screwdrivers. This is due to the peculiarity of domestic products, which, when drilling ice, rotate in the direction of unwinding the power tool chuck. This brings a lot of inconvenience to winter fishing. Of course, you can additionally use a reduction gear, but not every home craftsman can make it.

Therefore, when manufacturing an automatic ice drill, it is better to give preference to imported models. Ideal for any Mora model, which easily adapts to an electric tool. For them, all the necessary adapters can be bought at the store, which will allow you to attach the cartridge to the auger with high quality.

The Tonar model deserves special attention. The manufacturing company is engaged in the production of removable screws with cutting heads, which are easy to connect to a cordless screwdriver. And to drill through thick ice, you can adapt a store-bought extension cord.

Features of the manufacture of the screw part

Most fishermen are accustomed to making their own accessories. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy a quality device in a store, and even more so if it is mechanized. For the manufacture of such a product, you will need to prepare spare parts from the following list:

1. Metal pipe of suitable diameter.
2. Metal plates for the manufacture of auger.
3. Quality steel knives.

Electric welding is required to connect all the individual elements. After all the parts are welded, they are cleaned with a grinder. The resulting product is painted for corrosion protection. Given the complexity of such work, you will need to contact a specialist. Therefore, it is better to buy a finished product in a store.

cutting part

Every fisherman dreams of comfort while fishing.. It is important to remember that the quality of ice drilling depends on the following parameters:

• Blade hardening. In modern models of drills, blades with hardness values ​​​​from 30 to 70 units are used.
• The quality of the cutting blade. The knife has two cutting edges. The speed of ice drilling depends on the quality of sharpening of the latter.

The choice of steel in the manufacture of an electric ice drill with your own hands is important if all its parts, except for the electric drive, are made independently. If you buy a finished model in a store, you can ignore this parameter. For the manufacture of the cutting part, the following materials are used:

1. Hard special steel grade P18 or similar. It is important to pay attention to the hardness of the material, its shape and the quality of sharpening.
2. Titanium plated metal. Blades with this coating have a maximum service life.

Do-it-yourself adapter preparation

It is important to remember that the manufacture of the adapter depends on the characteristics of the drill. If you use the Swedish drill Mora, then an adapter for an ice drill for a screwdriver of the following type is suitable:

• for the standard model, a product with a diameter of 1.8 cm is required;
• if the Mora Nova model is used, the diameter of the adapter must be 2.2 cm.

To prevent the screw from turning in the screwdriver sleeve, the adapter must have a hexagonal working surface. And to prevent accidental loss, a special stop is installed.

There are also adapters with handles. They are easier to use while drilling ice. Higashi's 1.8 cm adapter model works well with all Swedish drills and some domestic products.

Assembly of individual elements

Having dealt with all the elements that make up the device, you can begin to assemble an ice screw with your own hands at home. This is a simple process if the elements discussed earlier are prepared:

• auger part of the drill;
• electric screwdriver;
• adapter of the appropriate diameter.

The cartridge is connected to the auger with an adapter. This completes the assembly of the automated ice drill.

Tool care rules

Whatever ice drill based on a screwdriver is made, so that it works as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it. To do this, you should adhere to the following rules:

As you can see, making an ice screw with your own hands is a fairly simple process. The main thing is to correctly select the adapter, screwdriver and cutting part of the product. By combining all the components into a single design, you get an indispensable assistant in winter fishing. Such a tool will allow you to drill a hole in the ice of any thickness in a few minutes.

To create a well or carry out other type of excavation, it is possible to use not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists. With a small scale and a sufficient amount of time, simpler equipment can be used.

The simplest design of an earthen hand drill

One of these tools is an earthen drill - a device that appears in many variations and varieties. It is most in demand in garden and summer cottage work, it is also used in various industries.

The design and purpose of the drill

An earthmoving drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the ground (to be more precise, its upper layers are drilled).

It consists of a rod (rod), a handle and a drive.

At the bottom of the rod is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of screws or cutters.

All drills can be conditionally divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with engines.

A hand drill is an extremely simple and primitive design, it opens and passes through the upper layers of the soil without any problems. And mechanized devices used in industry, having electric or gasoline drives, can drill wells up to 3 meters deep, while they easily pass the hardest layers of soil.

The drill for drilling the earth on the farm finds a huge number of applications: it creates wells for planting trees, drills wells for installing pile foundations, pillars and other building structures.
to the menu

Types of Boers

Classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is performed into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.

Petrol hand drill

A gasoline land drill (aka a motor drill) is the best option for domestic use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough.

It easily opens soil layers up to 2-3 meters deep, in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the stem extension.

In addition to devices for household use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators.

They are equipped with high power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or soil with a high content of mountain inclusions.

The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transferred to the rock breaking element.

Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light ones - coaxial gearboxes.

The fuel is usually gasoline mixed with oil 92.

The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:

• Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4-stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke ones;
• Handle for holding;
• Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
• Screws are usually used as a food-destroying element.

The cost of devices for domestic use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When buying, first of all, you should pay attention to manufacturers such as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.

Electric hand drill

There are also a large number of companies where it is possible to rent a motor drill. In general, renting is a great option if you only need the device for a few days. To date, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1,000 rubles per day, plus you will need to make a deposit of 5-10 thousand.

Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but also common and well-known.

The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is an electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and disadvantages to the device.

The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, an electric drive is practically inaudible.

The disadvantages are as follows: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.

For domestic use, this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use, this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat narrows its portability, since any batteries have an unpleasant feature to sit down at the most inopportune moment.

The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent - from 1000 rubles per day.

Hydraulic drills are a category of serious industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electric devices is the reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass problematic soil layers.

Hydraulic hand drill

In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes the hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.

But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible shaft speed control, which allows you to choose the optimal drilling mode for different soil layers.

The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the "tenderness" of the drive. It is always necessary to keep it clean, as mechanical impurities inside the drive significantly reduce the service life of the device.

The hydraulic earthen drill, in comparison with analogs, differs in several times higher cost. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.

5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case one hour of time is paid. Such a rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.

How to make a drill with your own hands?

If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earthen drill with your own hands.

To create a homemade drill, you need the following tools:

• Welding machine;
• Bulgarian (with circles for metal);
• Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.

The process of drilling the earth with a hand drill

It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:

• For the stem - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
• For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
• For a cutter - a disk from a circular file, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
• For the "needle" (guide element) - a drill for metal with a diameter of 15 mm.

A homemade hand drill for earthworks is made as follows:

• We make cutters (blades) of the drill. If you take a disk from a circular for this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
• To make a cutter from such a disc, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades that the disc was originally equipped with. At first, it is not necessary to sharpen the edges of the cutters, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - sharpness is given after all connections are completed.
• In the case of using ordinary metal, make an approximate marking on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which a hand drill for earthworks will be used - for drilling a well for a foundation, or a well for planting trees.
• If there is no clear goal, then the best option "for all occasions" are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
• We prepare the fittings for the rod. It is not recommended to make a stem from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will fall apart.
• A drill for metal is welded to the end of the rod, it acts as a home-made guide element (the optimal drill length is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
• We weld milling cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
• We take a grinder, put on an abrasive wheel for metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: we remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
• We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicularly to the upper part of the rod.

You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for earthworks with an extendable stem.

To do this, a bolt is welded to the handle of the drill, and a nut is welded to the upper part of the rod.

A piece of metal pipe is used as an extension, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and stem.
to the menu

The design and use of the drill (video)

page » Drilling tools

Source: https://byreniepro.ru/byr-instrumenty/zemlyanoy-bur.html

Electric drill for earthworks: the advantages of modern devices

In the garden, you have to use various equipment. To plant trees or build a fence, the owner will need an electric drill for earthworks.

This device is simple in design and has high performance.

It is only necessary to choose the right device, and the work will take less physical effort and time.

general information

Before going to the store for such a device, you should find out what an electric earth drill is and how it generally works.

Most models have a special frame as the main structural element. There are two handles on it, as well as an electric motor, supplemented by a gearbox.

The latter is necessary to increase the torque when using the device.

There are many criteria for choosing an electric drill

During operation, the unit must be held by two people at the same time. When the gearbox shaft rotates, the torque is transmitted to the screw screw.

Thanks to him, it becomes possible to perform a variety of earthworks. How much you have to spend on the purchase of equipment depends largely on its characteristics.

The most important are:

• dimensions;
• power;
• terms of Use.

The range of such devices on the Russian market is small, which is explained by the limited scope of their use. But in fact, an electric drill is a fairly versatile device.

The consumer must make a choice in favor of a particular type, starting from the type of soil prevailing on the site.

In addition to it, you can purchase a variety of nozzles that manufacturers offer for different surfaces.

In this video you will learn more about the earth storm:

Advantages and disadvantages

Although an electric earth drill is available in stores, it is rarely used on sites. Many refuse to buy a device because they simply do not know about its main advantages:

1. Saving physical strength. These devices are powered by electricity, so the work associated with drilling holes in the ground becomes an easy task.
2. Environmental friendliness. Unlike gasoline appliances, their electric counterparts do not emit exhaust gases during operation, so there is no harm to plants and the environment.
3. Noiselessness. The electric drill during work does not create noise. Thus, its use completely eliminates discomfort for neighbors.
4. Minimum weight. Modern models are lightweight, which also gives them an advantage over gasoline appliances.

The main and only disadvantage of these devices is that the drill is tied to a 220 V electrical outlet. If the site is not electrified, then there is no way to use such equipment. Although many models are equipped with batteries, the battery power is not enough for continuous operation of the device.

Application rules

Usually, an earthen electric drill is used to make holes for planting fruit trees or shrubs. But during construction work, this device can also come in handy. It is great for creating holes where piles or other supporting elements will be installed later.

Performing work on creating holes in the ground manually is a time-consuming task, and it is noticeably complicated by the encountered stones and tree roots.

However, the use of an electric drill allows you to solve the problem easily and quickly.

In a situation where it is necessary to drill holes in a hard-to-reach place where it is not possible to place overall equipment, such a device will greatly facilitate the process.

A variety of electric drills are available on the market today. Between themselves, they differ in size.

They can even be used for jobs such as drilling a well or making a well.

If you need a device to perform a wide range of tasks in the garden, then it can be easily purchased at any specialized store.

Nuances of choice

In order for the equipment to provide high efficiency when used, it should be properly selected, focusing on the tasks to be solved. The main points that deserve attention when choosing an electric drill are the power of the device and the equipment of the device.

It must be understood that low power limits the scope of use. But buying high-power equipment is also an irrational decision, especially if it is planned to be used only occasionally in the garden. The best choice would be to purchase a device with a power of 1.5 kW.

If an electric drill is required to install a pile foundation or perform another laborious task, then models from 2 kW and above should be considered.

A well-equipped fixture ensures easy performance of a variety of jobs. Such a device can be considered universal, but this leads to an increase in its cost.

In specialized stores, the minimum price for such equipment is 15,000 rubles.

To get at your disposal a high-quality and reliable device, you need to seriously spend money.

Main manufacturers

Drilling equipment for use in garden plots is produced by many companies. In countries such as Japan, Sweden and Italy, there are many companies that produce electric drills. . Among Russian consumers, the devices of the following companies are most in demand:

1. ECHO. This Japanese company produces a variety of products. Models are highly reliable and delight with their performance characteristics. Their feature is a fairly simple design. This eliminates frequent breakdowns and facilitates maintenance. The average price tag for devices from this manufacturer is 28,000 rubles.
2. EFCO. A manufacturer from Italy offers a variety of devices for drilling. A feature of the devices is increased strength, they can easily withstand severe loads. The fixtures are great for frequent use. Brand products are offered at an average price of 29,000 rubles.
3. STIHL. The equipment of this company is well known in the Russian market. The domestic manufacturer offers a variety of devices. Its product line also includes electric drills. Models are practical and durable. They are also economical to use. Devices can be used to perform work of varying complexity, equipped with a safe locking system. The average price for them in comparison with foreign counterparts is much lower and amounts to 15,000 rubles.

By choosing a device from one of the well-known manufacturers, you can get a reliable device that will last a long time. You don't have to buy equipment.

The best solution is to cooperate with the dealer.

You can buy really high-quality equipment from the official representative of the brand, besides, in this case, competent service is guaranteed.

: do-it-yourself pit drill on a tractor drawings.

Electric drill - an indispensable device in the garden area. Many jobs are hard to do without this versatile tool. Modern models are very easy to use and allow you to solve a variety of tasks.

Even the creation of pits for a pile foundation does not require large expenditures and physical strength, when such a technique is used, it is only necessary to choose the right device. Preference should be given to products of well-known companies.

Source: https://zaborprofi.com/instrument/jelektrobur-dlja-zemljanyh-rabot.html

How to make a homemade earthen drill

When building a house and landscaping, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing pillars, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures.

The same pits, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing a pile foundation. Make these holes with a motorized or manual drill. They are available in stores in sufficient quantities, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products.

In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are a lot of them.

Designs and application

There are three main designs of earth drills:

• Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A hand drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting, from which it is called "garden". But pits are made with the same tool when installing poles for fences, arbors and other light buildings. An example of a home-made earthen garden drill
• Auger drill. It differs in that it has a longer cutting part. It is used for the same purposes - to make holes for poles. Due to its design - a longer cutting part - it needs to be removed less often, so drilling is usually faster.
• Drill for piles TISE. This design is similar to a garden drill, but has an additional retractable blade to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile, characteristic of this type of foundation. The retractable blade is a feature of the TISE pile drill

Easier-to-make garden earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified.

This is the beauty of home-made drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not only about size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in design features.

Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. Works well on "light" soils. On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

• cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the holes to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable - bolted. The drill for poles can be with a prefabricated rod
• Kernel. This is a round or profiled pipe (square section). A crowbar can also be used, but it is very heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod is the required depth of the pit, plus 50-60 cm. If you make it shorter, then the last centimeters will have to be drilled in a deep slope, which is not at all easy. If, with this calculation, the total height is higher than 1.5 meters, it makes sense to make a prefabricated bar. Then the rod is built up with pipe segments of the same diameter, having come up with an articulation system.
• Pen. Most often, a crossbar in the form of the letter T is welded to the rod. The minimum length of the handle is 40 cm, the optimal is about 50-60 cm.
• Tip-drill. This is the part that is under the blades. She is the first to loosen the ground, and at the initial stage she is responsible for centering the drill - it is easier to hold it vertically.

This is the basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a dredger can be made of.

materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4' to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Knives-blades can be made from:

• sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
• saw blade for a grinder of a suitable diameter. A dredger with blades from a saw blade for a grinder

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the ground easier to cut.

Piku-drill is made from different materials - there are a lot of its designs. They make just a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

Tip for earthen drill made of strip of steel Pika - one of the options for the tip Combined tip for crushing rocks

And finally, about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and the method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of a solid diameter.

On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades - for pits of different diameters

Holes will have to be cut in the center of the disks themselves - so that they fit snugly against the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, follow it with a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Manual buroyam with one turn

It is also necessary to spread the edges by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

Reinforcement of a hand drill for drilling wells in dense soils

The blades bend due to the fact that the steel used is not hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, then it is unlikely to be bent.

From saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, therefore it is sawn in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

Disc cut in half

Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high performance. Even used discs have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod.

From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters - large ones. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four.

The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it has a relatively small weight, it is easy to work with.

The process of work is this - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled it out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tormented by dragging a small amount of soil from the depth.

For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

A homemade drill with a land receiver is suitable for installing poles and piles

And all these are handmade drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when a drill is made for wells of great depth - for water, underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

This is what a screw drill looks like

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of discs is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut for the rod, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.

A sector is marked in the rings, cut out

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. Welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Almost done

Drill for piles TISE

In the author's version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife greatly interferes.

Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver.

This makes the job easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel acts as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed movably, when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is loosened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

In the photo below - the second version of a home-made drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to the hinged structure with bolted connections.

More complex design

The dredger is from an old propane tank. The earth is collected from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

Bottom view

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must constantly be moistened with water.

Blueprints

A self-made drill is good because its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product.

But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills.

As you understand, the dimensions are conditional, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.

Spade drill

For planting plants, making a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. They choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

Drill for soft soils

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

Drill for soft soils

This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden drill

Both of these units work well, but the garden one often has to be removed, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden drill for soil of different density

Detailed drawing in the projections of the auger drill

Garden drill drawing

Everything can be done by our Russian Kulibins, so a home-made ice drill is not a problem for us, if the task were set.

To begin with, let's decide what manufacturing process we have to do, because each thing can be:

• make from scratch;
• finalize;
• retool.

Today's editorial assignment obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and refining existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.

What are we not talking about?

In this material, you will not read about the conversion of manual ice drills to electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual manufacturing here, but there is a connection of three parts: an auger, an adapter and a drill together.

Manufacturing from scratch

It is even scary to begin to describe this complex process. Without locksmith, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let's start.

To describe the manufacturing process, we have chosen several models:

• shoulder blade
• annular;
• framework;
• screw.

They have one thing in common - the upper part with handles, or a brace. So let's try to make it first.

Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:

1. We select a pipe of a suitable diameter.
2. On the ground or floor, we draw the bends of our rotation.
3. Pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with corks so that it does not spill out. Bending without sand can damage the metal.
4. We bend the pipe using a gas burner or a blowtorch.
5. We weld a bracket to the bottom of the brace for connection with the auger.
6. We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul storm.
7. We grind and paint the workpiece.
8. We buy a repair kit for the Tonar ice drill in the store.
9. We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.

The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - the manufacture of the lower part of the mechanism.

shoulder blade

This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting piece cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the down tube. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.

Although such a drill can make a hole in the ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of shortcomings:

• dulls quickly;
• the absence of an auger makes it often necessary to scoop out sludge;
• slowly cuts ice;
• difficult to rotate.

Annular

At the base of such a drill is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. A strip of steel is twisted into a spiral and fixed pointwise to the frame. It appears to be a fully functional model.

Framework

This do-it-yourself ice screw is also easy to manufacture. Let's describe this process in detail:

1. We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
2. In the lower part, steel bars are welded to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
3. At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis from the pipe. You should get two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately equal to eighty degrees.
4. We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives with bolts and nuts.
5. We adjust the angles of attack of the knives with the help of additional linings made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.

Sludge from the holes made by an ice drill of this design will also have to be scooped out with a scoop.

Auger

This one cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main detail of such a mechanism is the base for knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.

Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:

1. We weld a part to the pipe from above for connection with a brace.
2. From below we also attach a seat for knives for welding.
3. We cut circles from sheet metal.
4. We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
5. Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
6. We grind and paint the resulting product.
7. We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
8. We screw the knives.

Motorization refinement

In this part of our story, we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.

An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Shtil, Hugsvarna or Chinese comrades, also require the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.

Converting a trimmer to an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding bar. The adapter for connecting such a mechanism to the screw is the easiest to make.

Each of the chainsaw or trimmer models requires its own refinement, so there is no one universal manufacturing recipe. It is best to find an experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together with him make a decision and draw a scheme for manufacturing the desired adapter.

No less important for work on winter fishing is the gearbox for the ice screw. With its help, the parameters of the rotation of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.

If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some kind of operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.

An important task is the correct choice of the auger for the ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of the gasoline tool.

It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and the finished product will be used for a long time. It is important to make sure that the finished tool is easy to repair and maintain, parts are available and interchangeable.

An earthmoving electric drill is successfully used in cases where it is necessary, for example, to drill a hole for piles, make a trench or recess for mounting fence posts, drill a hole for planting a tree or shrub, etc.

Brief description of the device and the advantages of the equipment

By design, an earthmoving electric drill is an electric motor that has two handles, as well as a clamping mechanism used for clamping. This tool is most often made in the form of an auger. It is worth noting that the nozzles are removable and can be of different diameters, which allows you to adjust the size of the hole that will be drilled. It is also worth noting that there is a conditional division of drills into types, depending on their purpose. Allocate garden, earthen and pile tools.

An earthmoving electric drill is a rarity among people with suburban areas, despite the fact that it has some advantages. If we compare it with the manual type, then, of course, the advantage is that the main rotational force is due to the electric motor, and not human forces.

If we compare the device with a gasoline unit, then the advantages include silent operation, environmental friendliness and readiness for work (you don’t have to start it like a gasoline one).

Equipment Application

As mentioned earlier, one of the biggest benefits of using a drill is that it can handle piling holes with ease. Of course, you can do this with a manual type of unit, but an electric drill for earthworks will cope with this task much faster. In addition, the presence of small stones or roots inside the soil will make it very difficult to dig a recess if it is done by hand, for an electric motor this is not a hindrance.

Another convenience of using the equipment is that it is more compact than a conventional drill, and therefore its operation in places with limited space is most acceptable. Small dimensions and high functionality of the unit are its main positive qualities. It is also worth adding that, in comparison with gasoline models, the weight of the electric drill is less, which makes it easier to work with it.

Models and disadvantage

Large models of earthen drills are also used for digging wells, for example. Types with a smaller diameter nozzle are used for domestic use (planting plants, installing poles, etc.). However, it is worth noting that in the line of models there are also multifunctional types with removable nozzles. This makes it possible to use them depending on the needs, as well as on the quality and type of soil with which you have to work.

Naturally, the main disadvantage of the drill is that its operation in places where there is no electricity is impossible. Yes, when buying a device, a battery is usually included in the kit, but charging it lasts for a short period of time.

The principle of operation of the unit

An electric drill is an electric motor and a shaft that has a type. When using such equipment, the hole in the ground will have smooth edges and a clear auger diameter. The direct drilling process is carried out due to the fact that the auger has a very sharp tip, as well as pointed helical blades. When the equipment is started, the electric motor begins to rotate, transferring its force to the shaft to which the auger is attached. This is how drilling happens.

Favorable cost of the device

The price of an electric drill for earthworks is also one of its advantages. The approximate cost of the device is 1,000 rubles. It is important to note here that the device itself and the basic nozzle included in the kit are purchased for this amount. And then you can purchase separately augers of different diameters, if necessary. Thus, you can greatly increase the functionality of the equipment at a minimal cost. Choosing the right one will also save you money.

If you plan to operate the device in the garden, that is, for garden needs, then a power of 1.5 kW is enough. If you plan to drill holes for construction needs (pile foundation), then you will need a device with a power of 2 kW or more. If there is such a need, then electric units can also be used for ice drilling.

Reviews about the electric drill for earthworks are mostly positive. Of the main qualities that buyers distinguish, it is worth highlighting the ease of operation, low weight, the quality of the device and its relatively low cost.

There are also negative reviews. However, most often they are left by people who have not understood the rules of its operation and have acquired, say, a less powerful model than was required to work with a certain type of soil. Naturally, the result was bad.

From this it should be concluded that it is necessary to examine the soil with which you will have to work, decide for what type of work the tool is purchased, and only after that buy it. It is also recommended to purchase products only from trusted companies. It is better to pay a little more, but buy a better item than to pay less and buy equipment again in a year.

Motodrills from "Hitachi"

Electric drills for earthworks "Hitachi" are products of quite high quality and reliability. The manufacturer of this equipment is Japan. However, it should be noted that the range of goods is not too large. Of the electric models, there are only garden types. This means that the manufacturer does not produce electric models with high power. Only gasoline models from this brand have high power ratings. Today, there are three main qualities due to which Hitachi products have become quite popular.

1. The assembly quality of the units is very high.
2. The efficiency of these devices is also high.
3. The service life of the devices is quite long.

Product selection and operation

When buying an earthen drill, it's best to always go to a specialized store where they can help with the choice. However, there are a few guidelines that should always be followed. You should always pay special attention to three parameters - power, screw head size and engine size (if it is a gasoline model).

Quite often, when working with this tool, it happens that the drill burrows into the ground. For this reason, almost all new models are equipped with a safety system that turns off the engine if this occurs. This system protects equipment from damage. To avoid such a shutdown, it is necessary to periodically stop work and clean the auger from dirt.

It is also intended to protect the unit from accidental start-up or to protect a person in case of loss of control of the product.

The modern market is saturated with all sorts of construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, a pit drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely suit the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But one should not always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or even is not at all capable of fulfilling the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, the engine speed drops from a heavy load, etc.

Buying a powerful and expensive device for a small amount of construction or garden work is not always advisable. Renting is also not cheap. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment already at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.

Earth drill from a drill

In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is a power plant (a powerful drill or a gasoline engine), which, using a simple mechanical drive, is connected to a conventional hand drill. The drill can be made independently.

Drill from a drill with your own hands.

On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial execution.

skyle FORUMHOUSE User

Many say that they just bought such an auger and fixed it to him a powerful low-speed electric drill.

Engine Specifications

Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill both directly and through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a reducer for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE User

At first, a gearbox was planned, but after field tests with a “drill-auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).

The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us not by chance. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.

Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE User

There is experience in the construction of a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a pit diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension cord from an ordinary steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).

In order to obtain holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).

But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).

A bit of theory

If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:

• N - power (W).
• M is torque (Nm).
• n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
• 9549 is a special coefficient.

Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most manufacturers of power tools indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3 ... 1/4 less than consumed. Accordingly, less torque. A drill with a power of 2 kW at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.

When choosing a power unit for your yamobur, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will seriously have to think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE User

Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows you to proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And the power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).

Focusing on the torque that a 2 kW drill creates (without an additional gearbox), you can choose the right device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the torque value that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the number of revolutions of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.

uvl77 FORUMHOUSE User

The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drilling nozzles, well diameter, etc.

The above quotation mentions drilling methods. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant removal of soil. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a large amount of torque.

During drilling with constant soil removal, the auger, which has drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed outside.

The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the target depth. The process is laborious, but it does not require high torques.

As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proved themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.

Gearboxes for yamobur and their varieties

The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, fixtures and components that have been idle for a long time, because there was no worthy use for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for a moped that has served its age, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around on an old shelf in the garage, etc.

When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal revolutions of the drill and that it is necessary to provide sufficient torque on its working shaft.

mechanic020 FORUMHOUSE User

I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gearbox from it. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back of the aluminum case with the gearbox), then fixed it through the gear to this gearbox, an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be about 300 rpm).

About the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE User

There is no gearbox, although it was planned to be made from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Is it possible to use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have such.

The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the ability to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of the gearbox posted by the user melomandk.

Melomandk FORUMHOUSE User

Here is a gearbox I found. That's just the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (on the body) - somewhere around 15 x 15 cm.

As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.

di grise FORUMHOUSE User

My yamobur is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is a grinder (3000 rpm at the output). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I did not try to drill clay, but I took a hard rammed earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - from the spring.

bed

If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special frame.

The design of home-made frames, as well as of mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.

lifting mechanism

As a lifting mechanism, you can use a chain drive installed inside the central rack. Raising and lowering is carried out either with an additional electric motor or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE User

The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). It didn't need to be deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.

In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.

Another design of the lift involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.

mechanic020 FORUMHOUSE User

The main electric motor of the drill drives up and down the square tube. It moves due to the winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil from the well.

For comfort mechanic020 made a control panel that controls the winch and the rotation of the drill during operation.

The drill, together with soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum under itself and exacerbating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.

DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE User

My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power - 1kW.

Bottom support for bed

The lower bed support can be equipped with two wheels (for easy movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, then the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working one by simply tilting the bed.

It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the frame, which will help to set the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.

Materials for the manufacture of the bed are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can perform a complex design calculation on their own, but anyone can use the experience of our portal participants.

Yes, user Tri.Dr.E made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper transverse bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.

User jumper_at_home laid in the design of the frame a different metal profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from a steel sheet 10 mm thick.

And here is a photo of the installation, which was created by the user PwrWW"from what was" (as he himself says).

PwrWW FORUMHOUSE User

The most difficult thing was to find two even solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they were not there, I would buy a profile pipe for 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of channel 80 and a corner from scrap metal. I also found 4 p-shaped plates of suitable length among the scrap.

Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that, if necessary, the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it. It is especially important to observe this condition on hard ground.

jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE User

Here is what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the handle hole that is on the drill body. Everything is bolted together with a sufficient plane of surfaces. If you want even more reliable, provide a clamp for the landing groove on the drill end switch.

mechanical drive

The design of a mechanical drive that connects a drill or other engine to the working shaft of an earthen drill does not differ in particular complexity. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical sleeve, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole, removable knees made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.

In order to prevent damage when the working body is jammed, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The hairpin is made of a metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a stud having a minimum diameter (4 mm).

Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE User

Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I have a 4 mm nail as a shear stud, and it has never been cut off. But, if an obstacle is encountered, then it does not give away in the hands.

Homemade drill

As we have already said, the working body of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.

To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Art. 65G). If you need a garden hole drill of small diameter, then you can use ordinary truck springs.

For the manufacture of blades, you can use disks from a circular saw.

The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes to be drilled.

We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.

Discarding the top handle, we get exactly what we need.

The design of a homemade drill must comply with the following parameters:

• The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
• The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°…60°.
• It is desirable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which the installation will be easier to enter into dense soil.

How to fix a garden drill in a drill.