August 27, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

No one doubts that electrics are essential in the bathroom. After all, this is not only light, but also a working washing machine, razor, hair dryer and more exotic devices. However, few people know how to install wires with their own hands without losing their lives later. Or, at least, consciousness.

This happened to my relative from Krasnoyarsk. Having finished renovating the bathroom, he decided to please his wife and bought a washing machine. But there was no outlet in the room to which it connects (well, he didn’t think about it in advance).

As a result of his inept actions - knocked out machines, blown fuses in the washing machine and ugly black spot soot on tiles. Well, frantic calls to me asking for an educational program on how to properly make a socket and switch in the bathroom.

It's good that everything ended well. But I do not advise you, my readers, to make sockets in plumbing rooms by trial and error. Below are instructions, strictly following which, you will construct a safe and reliable utility network in the bathroom.

Specifications and Features

To begin with, I would like to note, although it is obvious, that a bathroom is a room with a specific microclimate, which is characterized high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations. And sometimes by the presence of a large amount of water on the floor.

Therefore to electrical wiring and the devices that are installed in it are subject to increased safety requirements. Moreover, regardless of whether you carry out the installation yourself or entrust this task to specialists.

The situation is further aggravated by the fact that modern plumbing units contain many more electrical appliances than when I first started working as a builder. Moreover, many of them are powerful, which requires more larger section.

However, the fact remains and instead of complaining about the difficulties, you can simply make wiring that meets the requirements that I will discuss in the next section.

Current safety standards

Technical requirements for electrical networks are fixed building codes and rules numbered 3.05.06-85 and GOST of Russia 50571.11.

These documents indicate that specific specifications Electrical wiring and outlets in the bathroom are determined by the type of electrical appliances used.

In addition, there is a standard according to which it is recommended to make the wiring in the plumbing room hidden. This does not mean that it cannot be done on top. However, in the latter case you will have to take additional measures to ensure the safety of people in the room.

It is very important to choose the correct cable cross-section, method of insulation and number of cores. I recommend that even before starting a bathroom renovation, you make a design of the electrical system indicating all connection points and wires, which you then show to an experienced electrician. It will help identify bottlenecks and shortcomings before you even begin work on the project.

Basic installation rules

If you don’t have the phone number of an experienced electrician, or at least someone you know like me, I’ll give you some tips to help you do your bathroom wiring in compliance with all safety regulations:

1. Choose the cable of the required cross-section. To do this, you need to calculate the power of all electrical appliances in the room, and then select the desired wire according to the following list:

• cable with a cross section of 1.4 sq. mm withstands 4.1 kW;
• cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm can withstand 5.9 kW;
• cable with a cross section of 4 sq. mm can withstand 8.3 kW.

I think you are unlikely to need more if you are not going to install an electric sauna.

I prefer the three-wire one copper cable(even though its price is quite high). However, if your apartment electrical network is made of aluminum cable, don't take copper. These two metals will oxidize at the junction.

1. The wiring must have a separate grounding conductor. Although, to be honest, I recommend doing such wiring throughout the entire apartment. Otherwise, one day something happens in the house and almost everything in your house burns down. electrical devices.

1. The junction box where the wires are connected must be made outside the plumbing room. I always install a box between the bathroom and the toilet, this makes it more convenient to connect forced ventilation systems.

1. Personally, I still recommend laying the wires secretly. This is safer and does not spoil the interior of the bathroom. But do not forget that electrical cables can be walled into the wall only in a protective corrugated casing.

1. To avoid defeat electric shock it is necessary to use an RCD(residual current device). This unit turns off the electricity supply to the bathroom in the event of an emergency.

Now I’ll tell you not about regulatory requirements, but about tips and recommendations that have been developed over years of practice. I think they will be useful if you are planning to install an electrical network in the bathroom:

1. It is very important to choose the right location of outlets in the bathroom. They should not be placed too low on the floor, otherwise water may get in and cause a short circuit.
2. All sockets through which electrical appliances will be connected must be located at a distance of at least 60 cm from the shower stall.

1. All sockets must have a grounding contact, to which the third (grounding, yellow-green) conductor is connected. Naturally, you need to take care of purchasing and laying such a wire in advance.

If the socket is needed only for connecting, for example, a razor (not washing machine), and you live in an old house, where the presence of a grounding conductor is not provided at all, you can use an isolation transformer.

1. There is no need to install sockets on cold walls, where water vapor dissolved in the air often condenses. In any case, you need to take connection points that are protected from water by additional sealing gaskets and covers. Their cost is slightly higher, but I would not recommend saving on your own safety.

Self-installation of sockets

I seem to have described the basic requirements to you. Now I’ll tell you how to install electricity in the bathroom, that is, install an outlet for a washing machine or other device of similar power.

Installing a new outlet

To begin with, instructions for those who are thinking about installing wiring before starting decorative finishing. Therefore, he has the opportunity to groove the walls, lay wires in them and install as many connection points for electrical appliances as he wants (naturally, he needs to take care of the availability of a cable of the required cross-section).

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First, we draw a sketch of the future wiring. Immediately on it I usually indicate the cross-section of the wires to be laid and the location of sockets and switches. It is better to make several more sockets so that later there is no temptation to insert a tee or extension cord.

By the way, you can draw a sketch not only on paper, but also directly on the walls. To do this, I use a black marker, which then serves as a guide for cutting the grooves.

1. Having finished with the design, I move on to gating. For this I have a special device - a wall chaser. You don’t have to buy it, but rent it from a hardware store.
   As a last resort, you can use a grinder. Use a cutting disc to make two parallel furrows, and knock out the excess concrete between them with a hammer drill and chisel.

1. Then I drill out recesses for installing cups for switches and sockets. Again, I have a special diamond crown for drilling mineral surfaces, which is what I use.

You can do the following:

• attach plastic cup for the socket to the wall and circle it with a marker;
• drill along the resulting line a large number of holes;
• knock out the concrete inside with a hammer drill.

1. The next stage is cable laying. It should be housed in a corrugated plastic casing, which provides additional safety.

I’ll immediately say a few words about connections:

• use cables in which each core is one wire (rather than many small ones);
• connect cables not with twists, but with solders, which are more reliable;
• connect all electrical system bathroom with a similar utility network apartments through a separate machine (so that when short circuit do not deprive the entire home of light);
• after circuit breaker you need to install a residual current device whose rating is less than the rating of the machine (I recommend using an RCD with a shutdown current of 10 milliamps);
• For the fan, provide a separate cable, which will allow you to install an exhaust unit with a humidity indicator or timer (that is, make it independent of the light switch).

1. Having finished everything installation work and having tested the system for operability in all modes (the presence of current in the sockets can be checked using an indicator screwdriver), you can begin sealing the gates.

Installing an additional outlet

Now the second option for installing the socket. This is when you have already completed the renovation of the bathroom, and only then thought about where you will need to connect the washing machine (or when the renovation is still in the plans).

The most enterprising will say that in this case there is nothing simpler than connecting the washing machine to the mains using an extension cord. I will answer that this method is not only ineffective and inconvenient (the bathroom door will not close), but also dangerous.

This raises the issue of safety, that is, protecting people in the bathroom from electric shock. To protect your loved ones from troubles, you need to do:

• branch with grounding, which should be carried out from the nearest distribution box;
• branch with a separating transformer.

Under no circumstances throw the “ground” onto metal pipes heating and other similar parts. And be sure to install a residual current device.

Conclusion

Connecting all the wires, sockets and switches together is easy. But it’s important to do it right, otherwise not only will you suffer washing machine, but also your loved ones. And this is already very serious.

I would like to know exactly what electrical appliances you use in the bathroom and how they are connected to electrical network. You can tell about this in the comments to the material.

As for other aspects of renovations in the bathroom and toilet, they are covered in the video in this article.

August 27, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Hot summer greetings from Taganrog to everyone!

In my new article, we will look at the issues of replacing an old-style double-switch socket block, which was previously installed in all Khrushchev-era panel houses. The replacement will be carried out with a new switch block with a socket under one frame.

As usual, there will be a lot of photos, a connection diagram, recommendations for installing and connecting this device.

What this miracle of Soviet design and technology looks like is shown in the photo on the left.

Such a block consists of one socket (without grounding, of course) and two or three switch keys. Switches turn on the lights in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen.

In principle, the idea is not bad, but over time it all becomes unusable, because these switches are used in the apartment much more often than all the others combined.

Connection diagram for switches with sockets in one block

The scheme is generally simple, but I will give it below.

Subscribe! It will be interesting.

The following wires come into the unit being replaced: phase, zero, and two wires “go” to power the bathroom and toilet lamps. The phase is used to power sockets and switches. Zero – only for the socket.

Connection diagram for switches with socket

Strictly speaking, when installing electrical wiring, lighting groups are usually separated. That is, different power wires should go to switches and sockets, and they should be turned off differently in the electrical panel. But they did this before, out of poverty.

Dismantling the old block

Almost every day we come across the concept of “Kick-Ass”. Another kicker - at the end of the article.

So, we remove the cover, we see:

What do we see? Everything is loose and rickety, the two upper switches are in a completely dead state, the third is not connected, and according to the owner, it never worked. The socket is more or less compared to them, considering that in such a place it is almost never used.

The panel house is 40 years old. The lights in the kitchen and bathroom are turned on at least 10 times a day. 40x365x10=146 thousand times. We did a good job.

At this stage, we understand the wires, check where the phase is, and turn off the power. In this case, you must have a headlamp; you can’t do without it.

We take out the insides. The main thing is not to break the wires and notice where everything goes.

3. We take out all the insides - old socket, switches, metal box

The bad ends that went to the switches had to be cut off - they were still short.

The two bottom wires go to the socket. On the left is zero, on the right is the phase, which in the old days electricians designated with black rag tape (there was no other tape, no markers).

It is worth saying that for some reason the antique metal installation box is attached as tightly as tin. It is fastened with some screws and nuts that must be turned. I have replaced such blocks more than once, and each time tearing out this box is torture. I use powerful pliers and a large flathead screwdriver.

4.No one will ever need this again. Thanks for your service!

Installing a new switch box with socket

Here's what's best to use in such cases:

Also, to install a block of socket and switch, you need a double frame, it was not included in the frame. On latest photos she will, I promise.

What's new in the VK group? SamElectric.ru ?

Subscribe and read the article further:

Switches and sockets in Lately I use only Turkish ones, most often VI-KO. They are the best in price/quality, and are very easy to install. The photo shows the VIKO Carmen model, their design is a bit old. And finishers don’t like them because of their rounded shape. In this sense, VIKO Karre is better - they have modern design, and they are perfectly rectangular in shape.

Karre sockets – television and power under a triple frame. Photo from article

There are ready-made solid blocks just for such purposes, where a socket and a double switch are combined in one housing. Made in Belarus and Russia. Very inconvenient, bad, clumsy. I DO NOT RECOMMEND.

The box is specially designed for two installation places, one-piece. It is better to use it than two separate ones with a jumper.

We install the distribution box. You have to cut out part of the top side to minimize bending of the old aluminum.

At the bottom you have to trim a little so that the box is flush with the wall:

Next comes the longest, dirtiest and most unpleasant part. We work with alabaster or gypsum putty, use a spatula and preferably a level. After this, you can relax - smoke or (in my case) ask the hosts to pour some tea.

Now we use pieces of copper wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2 and , which are a great help.

It is important that in order for this entire structure to stand for many years (up to), it must be electrically properly protected. The current of the circuit breaker in this case should be no more than 16 A, or better yet, 13 or even 10 Ampere. I have already written in detail about the choice of a circuit breaker (circuit breaker) more than once.

We act from below.

9.Connect and install the socket first

I use double Vago terminals to extend the wires to the switch, quadruple terminals for phase distribution, I managed to screw the neutral onto the socket directly, the length allowed.

We fix the socket with self-tapping screws in the box. I already wrote, for those who haven’t read it, I highly recommend it. We don’t tighten it too much, but you can completely ignore the spacer lugs and even throw them away.

We install and connect the switch according to the connection diagram. We securely and evenly fix the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

10.The socket and switch are connected and installed. See the gap between the outlet and the double switch? It should be 0.5-1 mm wide and the same along the entire length.

The matter is nearing its end. A few deft moves...

11. We put on a double frame

And the installation of the socket block with switch is complete!

12. The socket and switch block are installed in the bathroom

That's basically it. If anything is not clear or you have something to add, ask and write in the comments. If you are interested in what I will publish next on the SamElectric blog, subscribe to receive new articles.

Update from April 26, 2014: Here’s another “kick-ass”: a switch for two rooms. This is an apartment in the old district of Taganrog, it doesn’t happen there (for example, there are two phases in the apartment, because between the phases there is 220V, not 380) - there was one room, now there are two. But the switch remains...

If you have any questions about how to connect the unit double switch with a socket - please contact us in the comments!

If you notice.

Top 10 Broke Stars It turns out that from time to time even the most resounding fame ends in failure, as is the case with these celebrities. 10 lovely star children who now look completely different Time flies, and in one wonderful moment minor celebrities become adult figures who are no longer recognizable. Pretty boys and girls are transformed into villages. 15 symptoms of cancer that women mostly ignore Many signs of cancer are similar to the symptoms of other diseases or conditions, which is why they are often ignored. Pay attention to your body.

And here are 10 things. Never do this in church! If you are not convinced whether you are behaving correctly in church or not, then perhaps you are not acting because you should. Here is a list of scary ones.

9 famous ladies who fell in love with ladies Showing enthusiasm for something other than the opposite sex is not something unusual. You are unlikely to amaze or shock anyone if you admit it. These 10 little things a man always notices in a lady Do you think your man doesn’t understand anything about female psychology? This is wrong. Not a single little thing can be hidden from the gaze of your partner who loves you.

Connecting the switch bath toilet kitchen with socket

Switch block for bathroom and toilet

How much does it cost to install pipes? Replacing water supply pipes in an apartment, replacing pipes in a bathroom, the price of installing water pipes in apartments in Moscow and the Moscow region. Qualified specialists of our company perform the full range of plumbing work related to the installation and replacement of water supply systems in apartments in Moscow and the Moscow region. Apartment water supply can be installed different ways. A collector or series circuit for water supply wiring, or you can use a combined series-collector circuit. And the laying of water pipes and sewer pipes mount using open or hidden wiring method. The collectors are equipped with taps, which is very convenient, so each outlet can be closed independently of the others, which allows, if necessary, to easily and quickly shut off the water supply selectively to the required plumbing fixture in the bathroom without turning off the others. All pipe/manifold connections are located in the bathroom very compactly and in one place. Installation of such a water supply system is more expensive and is usually carried out in a hidden way pipe laying. Hidden installation of apartment water supply pipes. This method of laying water pipes allows it to be carried out hidden installation in wall grooves, boxes, niches, channels, floor screeds and plasterboard structures. Installing water supply pipes using this method is more practical, which generally improves interior design bathroom, toilet, kitchen through which the apartment’s water supply system is usually laid. Prices for installing an apartment's water supply (without the cost of materials) We offer you the following most common options for installing water supply in apartment bathrooms; we have roughly divided them into three main classes: economy, standard and luxury. How much does pipe installation cost?

Everyone says that we are the best and give a bunch of arguments. supposedly the company will do it and disappear, but we have been working for 30 years. They say the same thing in the housing department...

Switch block with socket for bathroom

Such a failure, I changed the block: socket, three switches (well, standard) to the block: socket, 2 double switches, bathroom kitchen toilet, and lighting fixture...

IN panel houses Three-key switches with a socket are widely used. They stand in the corridor and control the light in three rooms - the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The socket here is provided for various household needs, for example, to turn on a vacuum cleaner, razor, hair dryer, etc. A lot of time has passed since they were installed and today they require replacement. Buying such three-key switches with a socket is not difficult, but not everyone can figure out its connection diagram. In this article, I analyze in detail the connection diagram for a three-key switch with a socket, with which you can do everything yourself.

Before starting all work, be sure to turn off the power to the apartment or this line. Safety comes first.

When dismantling the old unit, remember, or better yet, label all the wires that you will disconnect. This will allow you to quickly figure out which wire goes where. In a nutshell about wires - the meaning here is this:

• one two-wire wire comes from the distribution box to the switch block and is connected to the socket contacts;
• from this socket, from the “phase” contact, there is a jumper to the common contact of the switch block (this is the only black wire in the figure below);
• Three phase conductors go from other contacts of the switch block to the lamps.

I think these explanations are not enough, so I drew a diagram for connecting a three-key switch with a socket, where I described everything in detail. Here you pay attention to the drawn lines and don’t pay too much attention to the bunch of wires in the block, since this is an amateur project and the owners of the apartment have powered another outlet. See below...

In the photo above, a plastic box from a new three-key switch with a socket is already mounted into the wall. It fits exactly into the groove made from the old switch. It can be placed on plaster, or it can be attached with dowels. Here the choice is yours.

Here is a photo below without my art. This unit is located in the apartment of a retired family. The wiring here is old and they under no circumstances wanted to change it. Some of the wires were broken and they were extended through single terminal blocks. Next we see a yellow-green wire - this is the “neutral” conductor going to the socket mounted in the kitchen (this is an amateur activity of some electrician).

Below, the switches themselves are already in place. In fact, they do not need to be removed, since there is still access to the contact bolts.

I took them off just for fun...

Now we put the body in place. It is secured with three bolts.

We put the side key...

Now another side key...

At the final stage, set the middle key. That's all, the three-key switch with socket is ready for use. In order to disassemble it and get to the contacts, you need to follow the steps in reverse order described here.

If these explanations are not enough for you, then read new material supplementing this article: Addition to the article "Connection diagram for a three-key switch with a socket". Here I am considering two different schemes connection of such a block and provide detailed explanations.

Let's smile:

Physics teacher - Vovochka:
- What happens if you insert a magnet into a coil and take it out again?
- An induced current occurs in the circuit.
- Right! What if it takes a long time?
- An electrician may be born.

Replacement standard block switches

Many still have them in their apartments electrical switches old style combined with a socket. Such switches were mainly used to control the light in the kitchen, toilet and bathroom...

Offered range of replacement switch units according to standard sizes not large and limited to a few species.
It’s easier to replace a standard old box in the wall with a modern one, where you can put a separate switch and socket, or like in the photo, where there are two switches and a socket.

Remember! Working under voltage is dangerous to life! If you do not have the necessary qualifications, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist.

To replace the switch block you will need the following materials
1. Box for switches and sockets.
2. New switches and socket
3. Gypsum plaster or alabaster

Required Tools
1. Screwdrivers
2. Spatula
3. Hammer (preferably with chiselling mode)
4. Container for diluting the solution
5. Phase probe

The box should not be very deep, so that the seat in the wall needs to be deepened as little as possible; when purchasing sockets, make sure that they will fit freely in the box and will not interfere with each other.

Before starting work, it is necessary to de-energize the entire switch block by turning off circuit breakers in the central panel, after which we dismantle the block by first removing the keys (on an old-style switch, they are removed by pulling the key towards itself and then moving it upward), and then releasing the screws securing the wires.

We unscrew the socket itself and the switches, disconnect the wires, having previously remembered which wire should go where. Having taken out the switch block, we dismantle the metal box of the switch block.

After dismantling the old block with the box, bend the wires to the side, mark the new seat, and use a hammer drill to very carefully extend the socket under new box.

As mentioned earlier, it is better to use a hammer drill with a chiselling mode. If the hammer drill only allows you to drill, then you can gradually expand the space for the box by carefully drilling and chipping away the concrete in small fragments.

We must not forget that the block is usually located on a thin wall of a bathroom or toilet, so when lengthening and deepening the socket you need to be extremely careful so as not to break through the wall.

It is advisable to remove the wallpaper around the socket for the socket, as it may be necessary to putty the wall around the box.
After expanding and deepening the seat under the box, before cementing it is necessary to thoroughly sweep away the dust and moisten the nest in the wall; for this it is convenient to use a regular paint brush.

The wires are inserted into the box, and the box is installed in its place. Having diluted a little solution ( gypsum plaster or alabaster), fill the gaps around the box with a spatula, try to keep the box upright, the box should not protrude from the wall and should stand straight.

Gypsum plaster sets more slowly than gypsum or pure alabaster; after the solution has dried, you can install new switches and sockets in the box.

When performing work, do not forget to follow safety precautions when working with electricity; work only by turning off the power and checking the absence of a phase using a tester or a special probe.

Related materials:

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