Orchid disease care and treatment. Pests of phalaenopsis orchids and their treatment with a photo and description of how to save the "royal flower" from the invasion of parasites

- very beautiful flowers. Each one is unique and original in its own way. Proper care of the plant will allow you to observe gorgeous flowering and abundant greenery from year to year. But there are times when the bush begins to wither before our eyes. The reasons may be in proper care or emerging illness.

Many people want to enjoy flowering on their windowsill of a tropical flower. But not everyone who has acquired a flowerpot with an escape knows how to properly care for a capricious specimen.

It happens that, out of ignorance, the gardener makes a diagnosis of a life-threatening orchid. Immediate therapy begins, which can lead to the death of the pet. Do not take drastic measures, but pay attention to the conditions of the flower.

There are several signs that indicate malaise:

Wrinkled, sluggish leaves with imprints of dots - the pet is hot, there are negative changes with the roots. If the points are strongly pronounced - the result of a lack of moisture. Damaged greenery acquires yellow, dries up and disappears. Overheating occurs in winter time due to a hot battery, in summer due to direct sunlight. Under conditions, moisture evaporates rapidly, without lingering in the cells of the bush. When the roots suffer from heat, the nutrient fluid is either not absorbed at all, or in minimal quantities.
In other cases, a wilting condition may occur due to abundant watering and stagnation of water in the pan.
Yellowing of the leaf - a change of residence, causing a stressful state, lack of vitamins (potassium, iron), rotting of the roots, natural aging of the shoots.
A crack in the center on a canvas of greenery - the causes are accidental damage, abundant irrigation at the time of cold ventilation, dry air and temperatures from 300.
Spots dark shades with a yellow border - the result of a long stay in the sun or in the vicinity of the battery.
Growths, swellings, bumps on the outside of the green process - due to swelling of the shoots as a result of heavy watering, mechanical damage.
Spots, stripes on the sheets - burns after watering, appear as a result of irrigation in the bright sun. The drops remained, the sun dried them up and accidentally burned through the delicate green coating.
A change in the upper young shoot, its decay - occurs if moisture enters the center of the bush.

Orchid diseases: types and signs

Allocate significant ailments:

Black rot - the problem lies in the temperature regime and the settlement of pests.
Fusarion is characterized by yellowing green cover, the appearance of spots. Leaves to the touch - soft, sluggish, twisted, there is a touch of a pink tint.
Brown rot - spots of a light earthy hue, watery consistency are present, intensified by darkening of the affected areas and grow on large territories. Start to accelerate the development of the disease gives frequent watering and cool room.
Root rot is expressed by the acquisition of the surface of young shoots of a dark shade. When probing, the roots become soft, growing decay is visible.
Gray rot - appear gray spots with outstanding fluffy villi. The leaves are affected, then the soil, the inflorescences are the last to suffer. hallmark is a small brown blotches on the petals. The reason is the frequent application of fertilizers with large quantity nitrogen.
Anthracnose. Rounded small spots appear with clear outlines of an earthy hue. They can also grow from several single closely spaced ones, degenerate into one large black tone. The neoplasm dries out the damaged area, leaving a dent on the leaf body. The reason is the lack of fresh air.
Leaf spot is a dangerous disease of infectious origin. The culprits are midday rays, excess fertilizer. On the cavity of the process, weeping islands are formed.
- characterized by the appearance of a sticky white coating. The affected areas dry up, the flower dies.
Viral diseases are rare. There are spots in the form of stripes and circles. Marble stains are noted on the shoots.

Each of these ailments has its own symptoms. The only thing that unites them is the cause of the disease - an increase in temperature and an increase in humidity in the room.

To correct the consequences after improper care, few actions are required. If overheating is detected, the bush must be removed from the battery (in winter period), move it deeper into the room. At the same time, make sure that the bush has enough daylight.

Otherwise, it is recommended to include additional fluorescent lamps. If the plant began to wither and the reason lies in waterlogging - drain excess liquid from the pan, dry, do not water for 2-3 weeks.

The flower itself will tell you when it should be provided with moisture - the roots will become faded and inconspicuous, they will be depleted.

With sufficient watering, the tone of the roots will acquire a rich light green hue. In case of burns in summer period it is recommended not to water in the early hours, so that foci of inflammation do not form on the leathery tissue. In addition, shade at lunchtime.

Black Rot:

Treatment. Remove problematic parts, spray with Bordeaux liquid. Clear the affected soil and transplant into a sterilized substrate. Spray nearby flowers with Bordeaux or a preparation containing copper.
Who can get infected: Cattleya, Parphiopedilum

Fusarion:

Treatment. 10-day treatment with Fundazol (0.2%), by immersing the entire pot in liquid - 3 times in 24 hours. Stop spraying - contributes to the growth of malaise, ventilate the room.
Who can get infected: Phalaenopsis, Epidendra, Miltonia.

Brown rot:

Treatment. Minor damage - cut off part of the shoot with the affected area, process. A massively spread disease - it will not be possible to save, destroy, irrigate blue vitriol 1 time per month.
Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Parfiopedil,.

Root rot:

Treatment. Spray with a solution of Topsin or Fundazol (0.2%), 3 times in 2 weeks.
Who can get infected: Parphiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium.

Gray rot:

Treatment. Cut off the damaged parts to a healthy zone, completely irrigate the entire bush. In case of relapse, the drug for the fight should be changed - the fungus develops an addiction to the drug that is affected. Recommended - Immunocytophyte.
Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis

Anthracnose:

Treatment. Remove the affected leaves entirely, process the sections of the cut. For treatment - copper-containing substances. Remove and . Humidity - no more than 70%, frequent ventilation.
Who can get infected: Miltonia, Phalaenopsis, Oncirius, Parphiopedilum.

Leaf spot:

Treatment. Remove all areas with symptoms. Do not water for a week, treat with chemicals.
Who can get infected: Phalaenopsis

Powdery mildew:

Treatment. Spray with a solution of colloidal sulfur, preparations Skor, Topsin-M.

Viral disease:

Treatment. There is no cure. Remove from healthy plants- destroy.
Who can get infected: All species.

Thus, by doing nothing, you can lose a valuable copy. At the first signs of the disease, it is recommended to take up weapons of struggle.

- love abundant sunlight. But in the daytime they prefer partial shade, the bright rays of the star can burn the delicate skin of the green cover. It gets along well if you follow some rules for the maintenance of an exquisite specimen:

On the northern windows it does not feel very comfortable. Normal light mode - 12 hours. If it is not fulfilled, then either you should choose another place of residence, or highlight. Otherwise, the arrow will not be able to bloom and develop fully.
For any type of exotic beauty, +27 C is considered an acceptable temperature. Some species perfectly tolerate an increase in the degree to +32 C. In winter, the plant feels good at +18 C., +13 C is considered the minimum threshold. At this stage certain types begin to freeze, they urgently need to be moved to a warm room.
Watering is welcome, but not plentiful. Each species should find its own approach. In one case, watering into the pan, the buds bloom almost all year round. With another bush, this method is not suitable, it begins to wither rapidly. Then it makes sense to try to irrigate with a shower under direct jets directly into the ground. In this way, the entire soil is moistened. It is recommended to water so that there is no stagnation of water, since excessive liquid is detrimental to the roots. Constant moisture is necessary only during the period of budding and flowering. With a lack of moisture, the leaves wrinkle, the buds fall off. Water required room temperature. A soft, settled or boiled chilled liquid is best suited. In summer, if necessary, watering increases to a maximum of 2-3 times a week.
Does not need abundant, they can adversely affect healthy growth. Top dressing is useful only 1 time in 4 weeks. Frequent supplements tend to lower immunity.

Thus, the orchid is a rather capricious lady, both in choosing a suitable place and in watering. To prevent the flower from dying, you should carefully monitor its condition.

More information can be found in the video:

Looking at the photo of the Phalaenopsis orchid, few flower growers will remain indifferent to this spectacular flower. In addition, these plants are relatively unpretentious in care. However, they can also be affected. dangerous disease or harmful insects. In this case, from proper treatment depends on the life of the orchid.

What conditions are required for the Phalaenopsis orchid

Most often, the poor health of an orchid is signaled by its leaves: they begin to turn yellow, wither, dry out. It doesn't always mean illness. Novice amateur flower growers are faced, rather, with a violation of the rules of care.

Orchid owners should be mindful of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis loses one or two lower leaves every year.

Required level of illumination

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct sunlight, but they love good lighting. That's why the best place for their placement there will be a window sill on the east or west side of the room.

On the south window, an orchid of this species must be shaded, moving away from the glass or covering it with a screen from a source of direct light.

Do not forget that proper growth and healthy development are possible with 12-15 hours of daylight. From mid-autumn and throughout the winter, install additional lighting over the orchids, for example, a phytolamp. This light source is the best option, it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves have darkened, become soft and elongated, then this indicates a lack of light.

External factors: temperature and humidity in the room

Orchids - tropical flowers they need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, you need to maintain the room temperature within 20–25 ° C. The minimum allowable for an orchid (and then in certain cases, for example, during a dormant period) is not lower than 12 ° C.

The ideal humidity level for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator in the entire room, and besides, it is not very useful for people. The best option there will be regular airing of the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis do not tolerate cold drafts) and increase the humidity in one of the following ways.

Proper watering

For a Phalaenopsis orchid, it is better to use water:

rain;
settled for at least a day;
boiled;
passed through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in cheesecloth, dip this bag in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, this will soften the water.

Watering rules:

If the problem is clearly beyond allowable limits, and is not associated with aging or care errors, you will have to look for the cause in the disease and the effects of pests.

Video: about the rules for caring for orchids

Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids

Name of the disease or pest	external symptoms
powdery mildew	Leaves and buds are covered from the base with a white coating, which rises higher over time.
spotting	The leaves are covered with spots in the form of a mosaic, circles or stripes.
brown rot	Light brown watery spots on young leaves and shoots.
root rot	The leaves turn brown, the roots soften and rot.
Gray rot	Gray fluffy coating on leaves and sprouts, brown dots and small spots on flowers.
Anthracosis	Small black spots of a round shape, increasing with time and merging into a large area.
Rust	Light spots on the underside of the leaf, eventually covered with a red bloom.
Fusarium rot	Leaves lose turgor, soften, curl; a pink patch appears.
	Small insects of green or black color are visible on flowers, sprouts and on the reverse side of young leaves. The leaves lose their shape, become covered with a sticky coating.
whiteflies	A mass of white small insects appears on the plant. The leaves turn yellow and take on a variegated color. The plant quickly sheds foliage.
	Leaves change color. Small dots and strokes are visible on the surface of the sheet plates. A silvery film appears on all parts of the plant.
Shchitovki	The leaves are covered with small but clearly visible growths and tubercles, under which insects live.
	A thin cobweb on any part of the orchid. Yellow spots on the plant. The leaves curl up and dry out.
	White coating, similar to lumps of cotton wool, on leaves, substrate, roots and walls of the pot.

Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

Symptom	care mistakes	Disease	Pest
Lower leaves turning yellow	natural aging of orchids; insufficient watering; incorrect content during the dormant period.
Yellow spots appear on the leaves		powdery mildew; fusarium rot.	spider mite; red flat tick; whitefly.
Leaves become sluggish		Bacterial spotting.	spider mite.
Sticky spots appear on the leaves		Bacterial spotting.
The leaves are covered with a white sticky coating		bacterial spotting; powdery mildew.
Leaves are covered with black spots	Spraying orchids in conditions of cold and poor ventilation.	Black rot.	Spider mite.
White spots or dots on leaves	too much low temperature in the room; frostbite of leaves under the influence of cold; in autumn and winter, the orchid is placed on a cold windowsill.	Powdery mildew.	mealybug; spider mite; thrips.
Leaf loses turgor (becomes soft and wrinkled)	insufficient watering; low air humidity; lack of light; untimely watering in the summer.	bacterial spotting; fusarium rot.	red flat tick; whiteflies.
The leaves are rotting	too frequent or abundant watering; cold, unsettled water is used for irrigation.	Fusarium rot.
Leaves dry	insufficient watering; low air humidity.		whiteflies; scale insects.
The leaves turn red	excessive watering at low temperatures; contact with water on the leaves at low temperatures.	Fusarium rot.	thrips; whiteflies.
leaf scorch	direct exposure to sunlight; low humidity in the room; room temperature is higher than expected.
The leaves are curling		Fusarium rot.	red flat tick; spider mite.
The edges of the leaves turn black		Bacterial spotting.
Mold on leaves	High humidity in an unventilated room.		whiteflies;
Silvery coating on leaves	low air temperature in combination with high humidity; excess fertilizer containing nitrogen.	powdery mildew; gray rot.	spider mite; mealybug; thrips.
White bugs on leaves			mealybug; whitefly.
fungus on leaves	too frequent watering; high air humidity.		whitefly.

Phalaenopsis orchid disease control

Most often appearance Phalaenopsis orchids suffer from improper care. If you notice this in a timely manner and begin to correct the situation, the plant will quickly get stronger and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is lost, then fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, which can very quickly destroy the orchid.

The consequences of violating the rules of watering: why the leaves become lethargic and fall off

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high humidity indoor air. Many novice flower growers try to compensate for the lack of moisture with frequent and plentiful watering. This is fundamentally wrong: in Phalaenopsis, from such an attitude, the leaves lose turgor and crumble.

If this happened during the hot season, do the following:

wait for the substrate to dry and continue to water the flower every 2-3 days;
maintain the required humidity;
in the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2-3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and carry out ventilation by opening windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Edema: what can cause the root system to rot

Low room temperature, abundant watering and water on the leaf plate can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, over time, the roots begin to rot. In the cold season, keep orchid pots away from window sills, reduce watering, and remember to remove excess water from the pan.

Exposure to low temperatures: why dark spots appear

In winter, Phalaenopsis orchids need special care because they are not cold hardy. Keep the plant warm (at least 16°C) and regularly ventilate, avoid spraying. Otherwise, the leaves will be covered with dark spots of fungal origin.

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid from a store and brought it home in the fall and winter, you may run into another problem. The flower is hard to adapt in cold weather, its leaves are frostbitten and covered with white spots. Cut off the affected areas to healthy tissue and sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white bloom appear on the plant

Most often, we owe the development of fungal diseases on an orchid to improper watering, non-compliance with the temperature regime and excessive humidity. Most of all, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, and less often to rust.

Bacterial diseases: for what reason leaves turn yellow or darken

Of this type of disease, the Phalaenopsis orchid is most often affected by brown spotting. As soon as you notice yellowing, darkening or softening of the leaves, the appearance of ulcers with a sticky liquid, immediately cut out the infected areas completely. Grease the edges with iodine.

Viral diseases: is it possible to save the plant

Phalaenopsis orchids are not resistant enough to viruses, and if they become infected, then it is very difficult to cure them. Most likely, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed, since there are no absolutely effective drugs and methods, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring flowers. If you see mosaic-like spots, circles and stripes on the leaves, show the orchid to a specialist who will confirm or refute the diagnosis.

Photo gallery: diseases characteristic of the Phalaenopsis orchid

Brown spot most often affects Phalaenopsis orchids
Rot plows the roots and neck of the orchid
Fungal diseases are dangerous for Phalaenopsis
With powdery mildew, the leaf is covered with a white coating

Video: care errors that cause orchid diseases

Phalaenopsis Pest Control Methods

Having purchased an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately put it on the window, where other flowers are already located. On the plant and in the substrate may be insects, and often dangerous.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests can infect the plant itself or root system.

Thrips: who leaves light paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown indoors with a high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is no more than 2.5 mm) also love warmth, so they are happy to settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that it is difficult to detect insects: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is evidenced by black dots and silvery paths on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the entire plant: juices are sucked out of the leaves and stems, larvae are laid in the roots.

Having found traces of thrips activity, carry out the following activities:

Treat the orchid, the substrate and all the plants that were nearby with a solution of Actellik or Fitoverm.
Repeat the treatment 3 times every 7-10 days.

Shields and false shields: where did the sticky spots come from

As soon as you see characteristic brown or yellowish tubercles on the stems and leaves of an orchid, you should know that the plant is affected by a false shield. Such plaques are not always immediately noticeable, but they are the "house" of an adult female insect.

The larva of the false shield crawls over the plant in search of a suitable place, after which it sticks to it, drawing out the juices, and eventually becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on the juices of the flower and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Shchitovka is also often found on Phalaenopsis. Its shell cover is denser than that of the false shield, rounded-convex and covered with a wax coating. The effect on the plant is almost the same.

Ways to solve the problem

wash the plant thoroughly with soapy water;
remove the remaining pests;
treat the plant and substrate with Aktellik or Fitoverm solution;
spray again after 7-10 days;
transplant the flower into a new substrate.

Mealybugs: what is the cause of withering leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can be significantly affected by the mealybug as this pest is not easy to detect. small white insect with an elongated body covered with fluff, it hides at the roots, bases of leaves and at their junctions. The worm sucks the juice from the plant, leaving behind a powdery liquid. You can definitely notice them when the leaves of the flower dry out.

What to do to get rid of the mealybug

completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid;
carefully examine all hidden areas of the plant, select all pests found using toothpicks;
every day inspect the orchid for new worms;
regularly wipe all affected areas with soapy water;
treat the substrate 2-3 times at weekly intervals with Fitoverm;
all month examine the orchid. If you do not find new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whiteflies: why the leaves withered

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by tiny white butterflies themselves and their larvae. Due to their impact, the flower weakens, the leaves dry. Adults lay their larvae in roots and on leaves.

To fix the problem, you need:

wash the orchid and substrate with soapy water;
spray the plant with Fitoverma solution, repeat after a week.

Aphids: because of which it is difficult for the plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not so much dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The secretions cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the plant's breathing and becoming a convenient environment for bacteria and fungi.

The remedy is as follows:

wash the plant with soapy water;
treat the plant and substrate with Fitoverma solution.

Ticks: who entangled the buds with cobwebs

An orchid can become infected with ticks both at home and in a greenhouse. There are 3 types of spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous punctures of the leaves, through which they suck out the juice. These traces are clearly visible on the leaf plates, which begin to dry, turn white and discolor. The buds are falling off.

Spider mite elimination

collect all the ticks from the orchid by hand;
thoroughly wash the flowerpot and the window sill under it;
Treat the entire orchid and substrate with Fitoverma solution. Repeat treatment after a week.

Nematodes: what is the reason for stopping growth

Very small nematode worms no larger than 2 mm in size penetrate the stems and roots of the orchid, feed on its juices and poison the products of their vital activity. The orchid stops growing, rots.

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both adults and whitefly larvae.
Traces of the mite cover the entire surface of the leaf
Mealybugs are not easy to spot between orchid leaves.
In the presence of nematodes, the Phalaenopsis orchid stops its growth
Due to the sticky secretions of aphids, the respiratory process is difficult in orchid leaves.
Thrips suck all the juices out of the orchid

Orchid diseases, photos and how to deal with them are of interest to beginner gardeners and housewives. Orchids are one of the most popular flowers grown at home. They attract with their beauty and tenderness. According to flower growers, the plant often gets sick. Only professionals know how to deal with orchid diseases. The photo in the article will help you find out the causes of ailments and start treating your favorite plant.

Orchids are one of the most popular flowers grown at home.

Orchid diseases: sticky drops on leaves

Housewives often encounter such a phenomenon when sticky drops appear on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid. What does this mean and how to treat a flower? Flower growers call this state of the Phalaenopsis orchid out of flower nectar. Drops appear on the leaves of the plant in the following cases:

To attract insects.
In case of protection from pests.
In case of violation of the rules of care.

The photo shows sticky drops on an orchid leaf.

It is often not possible to identify the exact cause of the appearance of drops. However, if this is a natural process for the formation of sticky nectar, then you should not worry. The owner of a phalaenopsis orchid, when sticky leaves are detected, can take the following actions, namely:

inspect the flower for an item. It can be centipedes, worms, ants, thrips, spiders, slugs, whiteflies, aphids. If a pest is detected or there is strong evidence of its presence, it is worth spraying the orchid with Actellik, Fitoverm, Aktara 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days;
strictly follow the rules for caring for an orchid. Even a violation of the irrigation regime can lead to the release of sticky drops on the leaves of the flower. Subsequently, a fungal infection joins and the plant dies. It is worth paying attention to temperature regime indoors, exposure to direct sunlight on the orchid;
correctly adjust the dosage of fertilizers. Some fertilizers are not suitable as top dressing for orchids. If the flower began to hurt after applying a new fertilizer, it is better to replace it or make sure that the dosage of the drug is correct.

Orchid diseases: rot on a flower, how to treat?

Phalaenopsis orchids are quite often susceptible to damage. various types rot. At the same time, spots appear on the roots, shoots, leaves Brown color or areas filled with mucus. If you do not start the treatment of the orchid, then the spots will increase in size, merge.

We offer you to learn about how to treat an orchid when rot appears

Florists distinguish several types of rot that affect orchids. Depending on the type of rot, the methods of saving the plant also change. How to treat an orchid when rot appears? Here are some tips from experienced flower growers:

Orchid diseases: dark spots on the leaves, what to do?

If the hostess found phalaenopsis on the leaves of the orchid dark spots with dents - this is anthracnose. Over time, they grow, merge, a pink coating appears on them - these are fungal spores that can migrate to neighboring plants. Why does an orchid get sick with anthracnose? Here are some of the main reasons:

High indoor humidity.
Bad ventilation.
Decreased air temperature.

Infection could have occurred through negligence. The spores are easily carried by drafts, water droplets from other plants, or by using infected tools during care.

The areas affected by the fungus are carefully cut off with a sharp knife, the place of the cut is sprinkled with activated carbon, ash. The flower is sprayed with antifungal drugs 3 times a day for 7-10 days. Suitable fungicides "Topsin", "Skor"

Orchid diseases: white spots on leaves, treatment methods

Plaque is the spores of the fungus that appear with powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew is a dangerous fungal disease in which orchid leaves are covered with white fluff. Plaque is the spores of a fungus. As the infection spreads, the leaves dry, wither, dry, and the plant dies. Reason for the appearance powdery mildew- poor air circulation, waterlogging of air and soil, hypothermia of orchids.

Treatment of Phalaenopsis orchids begins with the elimination of the cause that caused the disease. Then the flower is sprayed with any fungicide. The use of the drug "Fitosporin" leads to good results.

Orchid diseases and how to deal with them, video:

Many flower growers are distressed by orchid diseases. How to deal with them and how to treat your favorite flower? Photos and videos will help to cope with the symptoms dangerous disease plants. The main thing is to pay enough attention to the care of phalaenopsis orchids, engage in preventive treatment, and start treatment on time. We invite you to share your experience. What preparations did you use and what did you do to save the orchid?

Orchid - beautiful and spectacular indoor plant. But if it is not properly looked after, then various pests or diseases can appear on it. Advanced diseases of orchids can lead to the death of the plant. And so that it does not die, it is necessary to identify diseases and pests of orchids in a timely manner and begin treatment.

Before you start pest control, it is worth determining their variety. Various pests require special preparations for destruction, so beginner gardeners should be able to identify pests on their own.

This dangerous view the pest infects orchids. The pest itself looks like a small fluffy oblong lump that has long antennae. It usually lives in the axils of leaves near the ground. The pest feeds on plant sap. Because of this, the leaves of the orchid begin to turn yellow, and all parts of the flower become lethargic. home flower immediately separated from other plants, otherwise all indoor flowers will be affected by this pest.

To get rid of this insect, you must carefully examine the entire flower. All damaged leaves must be removed. If these pests of phalaenopsis orchids are found, then they should be collected and destroyed. The orchid needs to be dug up and the roots inspected, all damaged roots should also be removed. Destroy all old substrate. The new substrate must be treated with fitoverm, it is used according to the instructions. If the leaves are damaged, then it is worth treating them with soapy water. For the solution you need to prepare warm water and dissolve in it a small amount of grated laundry soap.

The flower is kept in quarantine for a month, and every day it is necessary to carefully examine the plants.

Gallery: home orchid (25 photos)

Shield and false shield

Spider mite infestation can be identified by white bloom on the leaves of the plant. White spots on orchid leaves at first have a small diameter, but then turn into one large spot. The tick feeds on the cell sap of the orchid. Before spraying the plant with a special preparation, it is necessary to manually remove most pests. You can clean them off with a damp cotton swab. The substrate must be replaced, and the pot itself must be thoroughly rinsed.

It is worth treating the plant twice with special preparations.

This pest looks like a small butterfly white color. It can live on all parts of the plant. The larvae are deposited on the roots or leaves of the orchid. All of them feed on the juice of the plant, which leads to a weakening of the orchid. And a weakened orchid begins to fall ill with various diseases.

Larvae and adult butterflies can be destroyed with a soapy solution. A large amount of laundry soap dissolves in water. You can also use Fitoverm.

Thrips: features

These pests most often settle even before the acquisition of the plant. Thrips are small black beetles that live in the substrate. But they feed on young roots and leaves. They move fast, it is not easy to catch them manually. Therefore, immediately after the purchase, you must get rid of them. The flower pot must be lowered into the water. Thrips cannot live in water, so in 10 minutes they will come to the surface.

Nematodes - inhabitants of the roots

These small worms live inside roots and stems and feed on juices. The plant loses vital substances and gradually dies. If there are few nematodes, then you can soak the pot or water the plant with a solution of Decaris or Levimisil. But if the lesion is severe, then it is worth pulling the plant out of the pot, cleaning the roots from the substrate and soaking the entire plant in this solution.

Leaf pest - aphid

These pests are easy to spot. First, they settle on the reverse sides of the leaves. They multiply rapidly and fill the entire plant. In places of settlement, aphids leave sticky secretions. To begin with, it is worth removing all pests with your hands. If individual parts are severely affected, then these areas are removed.

Then the whole plant is treated with Aktelik or Decis. Re-treatment must be carried out in a week.

Orchid diseases and their treatment

The plant can be subject to various diseases. They require different treatment.

Phalaenopsis orchid diseases and their treatment:

Bacterial. Most often, such diseases affect injured plants. Synthetic antibiotics are used for their treatment.
Fungal. These diseases can appear as a result of improperly selected temperature and water regimes. Exactly high humidity leads to the growth of fungal organisms. Treatment is usually carried out with the help of fungicides.
Viral. Usually appear when adverse conditions growing orchids. It is extremely difficult to determine such phalaenopsis diseases at home. Treatment is carried out by changing the growing conditions.

Phalaenopsis can be affected by various diseases, most often they occur due to the general weakness of the plant. Most often, phalaenopsis orchids are affected by diseases due to:

Wrong watering.
Insufficient ventilation.
Pest infestations.

Phalaenopsis orchids are most commonly affected by this disease. Fusarium appears if the plant is kept at high humidity, but ventilation is difficult.

The leaves of the orchid first turn yellow, then they begin to curl, and a pink coating forms on the surface.

How to treat an orchid? If Fusarium orchids are suspected, treatment should be started immediately. It is necessary to use the drug Fundazol. It is bred according to the instructions and the orchid is processed. You can immerse the plant completely in this solution. For a full recovery, you need to process the orchid daily for two weeks. It is also worth making sure that the roots are ventilated.

This disease appears at high levels of humidity, low air temperature, when using the wrong substrate and too abundant watering. First of all, it is worth using a light substrate, if it is too dense, then the airing of the roots is difficult and the roots experience discomfort.

The disease begins with blackening and rotting of the roots. Through a transparent pot, the onset of the disease is quite easy to detect. The roots completely rot, the flower lacks nutrition and the leaves turn brown.

Treatment begins with an examination of the roots. All black and damaged roots are removed. And the remaining roots should be treated with a fungicide solution. The substrate is better to take a new, high-quality. But if you have to use an old substrate, then it must be treated with a solution of Fundazol. The entire pot is completely lowered into the solution for 10 minutes. The plant itself should be processed three times. Between treatments it is necessary to maintain an interval of two weeks.

Gray rot appears due to the high dampness inside the pot and the low temperature in the room. Dark spots appear on the flowers, and the whole plant becomes lethargic. The disease develops quite quickly, and the orchid dies.

A good prevention of gray rot is the use of Kendal. It boosts immunity and protective functions flower.

The flower should be sprayed with a fungicide solution. If gray rot recurs, then the previous preparation cannot be used. It simply will not work, gray rot is resistant to such drugs.

anthracnose disease

First of all, small spots appear on the leaves of the flower. Then the spots on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid become larger and merge into one spot. The stain turns black. An infected flower should be isolated from the rest, otherwise the disease will spread to all plants.

To prevent the disease, it is necessary to ventilate the room well, create air humidity in the range of 50-60% and make sure that water does not stagnate in the axils of the leaves.

Large lesions are cut out with a sharp knife. The rest of the plant should be treated with a solution of fungicides. And it may take several treatments.

When a bacterial disease of orchids is affected, the leaves become lethargic, and cracks appear on their surface. Wet black dots and spots may also appear on the leaves. This disease is easy to cure.

First you need to remove all damaged areas and stains. To do this, use a sharp knife and carefully cut out the damage. All sections should be treated with a disinfectant. For example, alcohol tincture of iodine or charcoal. Some experts recommend using cinnamon or ground pepper, they will also disinfect the cuts, but will not harm the flower.

If the damage is severe, then it is worth using a fungicide solution. If bacterial spot does not appear within two weeks, then the flower can be considered healthy.

Disease prevention

In order for the plant not to be affected by pests and diseases, it is necessary to correctly organize the conditions and care. It is more difficult to cure a disease than to prevent a home flower.

Conditions for disease prevention:

After acquiring a new plant, it is necessary to keep it for about one month separately from other plants, otherwise all flowers will get sick.
Periodically, it is necessary to inspect the plants, check for pests, damage to leaves and flowers, and the condition of the roots. At the slightest suspicion, the flower should be placed in a dry room separately from other plants.
Phalaenopsis orchid loves high humidity, with insufficient moisture, the plant can get sick.
Lighting must be continuous. In winter, you can increase the length of daylight hours with the help of phytolamps.

Phalaenopsis orchid - very beautiful and showy plant so it needs to be taken care of properly. Moreover, competent care will help to avoid the appearance of pests and diseases.

Orchid - extraordinary beautiful flower, which, with proper care, will delight with its flowering almost all year round. But it is with the care of the orchid that certain difficulties arise. Being native to countries with a warm humid climate, phalaenopsis is difficult to adapt to life in ordinary apartment . Spots appear on the leaves, the roots die. So why can flowers and leaves start to turn white and wither?

Healthy orchids have dense green leaves, enough big size. If the leaves of the plant have changed color and structure, this indicates a disease of the plant.

Why do leaves lose elasticity (turgor)?

Turgor - loss of leaf elasticity - the result of various care errors

There may be several reasons:

Temperature too high. In case the plant for a long time is in the sun, the leaves actively lose water. The soil is also heated, it produces vapor. Underground roots do not have enough moisture, and, oddly enough, they are supercooled, since the heat of the soil is spent on evaporation.

In order for the plant to be rehabilitated, it is necessary to protect it from direct sunlight, while providing enough daylight.

After normalizing the temperature between the roots and leaves, you can water or wipe the leaves with a damp cloth. In water you can add some fertilizer for an orchid.

Hypothermia. When choosing a place for a plant, be sure to beware of drafts: they lead to freezing of the leaves. For orchid frostbite will happen already at temperatures below 15 degrees.

It will not be possible to cure it, you will have to cut out the damaged tissue. To avoid such unpleasant consequences, place the flower away from drafts, and in frosty winter, place it further from the windows.

Pests. On the leaves ticks and mealybugs may appear that feed on plant sap, it withers, and the sheet loses its hardness and color.

Washing the plant with outside. Thoroughly clean the surface of the leaves to remove pest eggs.

sticky leaves- a direct sign of the presence of a spider mite

If the orchid was occupied by a spider mite, then you can get rid of it by increasing the humidity of the air: place the pre-watered flower in a plastic bag. However, in this case, protect the orchid from the sun, otherwise destructive evaporation will occur.

The mealybug feeds on plant sap. In addition, he injects poison, poisoning the orchid, and his habitats become sticky.

What to do to save an orchid from a pest? Firstly, it is necessary to isolate it from other colors. Then remove the worm from the surface and apply insecticides to the peeled leaves.

You should not rely only on chemical exposure: mites and other pests quickly adapt. Fight them comprehensively.

It is always easier to prevent a flower disease than to treat it afterwards. Therefore, it is imperative to inspect the flower daily in order to stop the reproduction of the pest in time.

Lack of moisture. The main rule for watering an orchid is watering only dry soil. Watering is best done by immersion for one hour in water.

The composition of the substrate affects the degree of moisture in the flower. Unsuitable bark does not absorb moisture, and water will not be able to linger in the plant. In this case, the plant must be transplanted into a good substrate.

for orchids suitable bark from sawn logs or dead wood of a pine, or any coniferous breeds. There should be no resin in the bark.

Why do phalaenopsis flowers dry out?

The reasons for the short life of a flower or bud may be the above problems with the leaves: pests, improper temperature conditions and the regime of watering the orchid.

Putting an orchid in the sun is a direct violation of the temperature regime, which has a bad effect on the flower.

What needs to be done to cope with these problems, we have already found out. However, it should highlight a number of features.

If an orchid has been blooming for a long time, it may simply fade and go into a dormant period.	This is a normal process and nothing to worry about.
Pollination of flowers by flying insects	If pollination fails, the flower will wither and fall off
Being close to vegetables and fruits	They secrete substances that activate the ripening of flowers, even unopened ones. This provokes the death of inflorescences
artificial heating	Hot air dries up flowers and unopened ovaries of buds.
Stress	If the orchid was recently brought from the store, then the flowers may wither due to stress. The plant could be poorly packaged, especially in cold weather: the orchid is already at zero temperature can drop flowers.

Therefore, when buying, be sure to protect the flower from the cold. From the bright summer sun, flowers should also be protected with a simple paper bag.

What other problems can appear in the leaves

Dark spots or dots: what to do

What diseases are indicated by darkening on the leaves of a plant?

Hives. Dark lesions appear almost immediately after infection. They are small (up to 3 mm), rounded in shape. Spread quickly throughout the flower. The reason is low temperature, excessive humidity, insufficient ventilation.

Bacillus Cypriped or Brown Rot. Dangerous, common disease of orchids. Called pathogenic bacillus. A favorable environment for its reproduction is high temperature and humidity. At first, the spot is small and light, then it darkens and smells unpleasant.

Black rot, like any other type of rot, threatens the plant with death.

Black rot (Phytophthora) is one of the most serious diseases that affects orchids. First, purple spots appear on the leaves, which gradually darken and turn black. This disease occurs due to excessive watering and too dense soil.

Phyllostictosis. Infection strikes the leaf plate, which dies. Phyllostictosis manifests itself in different ways: from small black blotches to large black spots.

Burkholderia gladioli. A bacterial disease that occurs at high temperature and high humidity. Decay occurs very quickly. It is expressed in wet spots of dark brown color.

One and the same fungus can be individually expressed on a certain type of orchid. The manifestations of the vital activity of the fungus depend on the quality of the leaves and on the systematic care of the plant.

In addition, on the orchid can simultaneously develop several pests.

White spots on leaves

If the leaves begin to turn white in spots or dots, this may occur for the following reasons:

Excessive watering. When in contact with water, white spots form on the leaves. Nothing can be done about it, the spots will remain on the leaves.

Burn or excessive dryness. These reasons lead to the appearance of wet white spots. Damaged leaves must be removed.

White spots on the leaves are one of the signs that the plant was attacked by a fungus.

Fungal disease. It appears as white spots, similar to a burn. Fight fungal disease can only by special means . With timely measures taken, the plant can be rehabilitated.

black leaves

In addition to the lesions already described by fungal diseases, the leaves may turn black and die. Why might this happen?

Some types of orchids shed their leaves after the flowering period, which previously turn black.
Wrong temperature setting and orchid watering regimen
The leaves of the plant can infect the tick, often it is located with inside sheet.

Loss of elasticity and leaf density

Loss of leaf turgor is characteristic of root problems:

Root overheating and excessive or insufficient moisture. In this case, the leaf turgor is not maintained, and the orchid will begin to fade.

Remember - even specialty fertilizers can be harmful in high concentrations.

Wrong nutrition. Do not overdo it with fertilizers. Orchid roots are very sensitive, excess nutrients detrimental to the orchid.

Too dense soil. If the orchid is not transplanted for a long time, the soil becomes compacted and oxygen access deteriorates.

Orchid root problems: dry

The color of the roots of an orchid depends on the specific species, on fertilizers and complementary foods. Some species naturally dark color roots, but this does not indicate their soreness.

To assess the condition of the roots, it is necessary to carefully remove the plant from the pot, free the root system from the soil and inspect the roots. If they are firm, they are healthy. If the root seems to be hollow inside, it already irrevocably dried up.

Orchids have two types of horses: air and underground (internal). Underground are in the substrate. Aerial roots are those that are located outside the ground. This is normal for an orchid.

Aerial roots are important for the proper process of orchid photosynthesis.

Causes of drying of underground and air roots

Chemical burn with hard water and fertilizer salts.

Wrong watering. Why the roots dry when there is not enough water is obvious. If you keep the root system in constant moisture - roots will die and, oddly enough, they will wither or rot.

In most cases, white roots indicate that the plant was mercilessly flooded with water and does not participate in photosynthesis.
Dry air.
Injuries. Roots are easy to break. Even a slight scratch will cause the root to dry out.
Vital activity of fungi.

What to do with soft and sluggish roots

As soon as the grower is faced with sluggish and soft phalaenopsis roots, the question arises - what to do? We provide step by step instructions below:

Free the plant from the substrate.
By placing the plant in water, it will become clear which roots or parts of them have dried up. All dead sections are cut off to a living root. Treat the cut with cinnamon or charcoal.
To help the flower release new roots, prepare warm, non-hard water. You need to place an orchid in it. Baths are repeated every day, leaving the flower for an hour in the water. After moistening, the orchid must be dried.

You can use succinic acid, which encourages root growth. As an alternative, use "Epin" or other growth stimulants in a small concentration.

After the new roots reach a length of 5-6 cm, the flower is placed in a pot with a substrate.

Do not be afraid to try to prepare the substrate yourself - the main thing is to keep the proportions

To prevent the occurrence of diseases on an orchid, it is enough to observe three simple rules: keep the flower in a bright place, monitor the air temperature and observe the watering regimen. The rules are quite simple, with their proper observance, the plant will delight regular flowering and health.