Why tulips dry up. Why do Tulips have short legs? How can you help, feed them? Which variety to choose for planting
Tulips - moisture-loving plants... They need a lot of moisture to form a healthy bulb that gives a beautiful flower stalk. Moisture enters the plant as follows: first - into the bulb, then - along the stem to the flower, and last of all - to the leaves. If there is not enough moisture in the soil, the leaves will also lack it, and they will wither. To eliminate this factor, it is necessary to thoroughly spill the tulips with water.
Watering may be sufficient, but the weather is very hot. Tulips - do not like early spring flowers and heat. When planting tulips, it is better to choose places where there is no bright sun, which can be too hot in late spring or early summer. If the location is sunny and the leaves of the tulips are drooping, try spraying the plants and shading them from the sun at noon.
Lack of nutrients
If it's not about watering, it's likely that your tulip bulbs are lacking in nutrients. The shortage is also primarily reflected in the leaves. Watering will help again. This time with mineral fertilizer. If the reason is a lack of moisture, after watering in the evening the next morning, the leaves will become healthy again and rise. After compensating for the lack of nutrients, flowers need more time to come to their normal state. You can notice changes for the better in 3-4 days.Diseases and pests
But if, despite all the measures taken, the leaves remained lethargic, began to turn yellow and dry, then your tulips are sick or damaged by pests. There are about thirty fungal diseases that tulips can be susceptible to. The most dangerous of them are fusarium, gray rot and sclerocial rot. They damage the bulb. And in this case, sluggish leaves can be a signal that the entire plant will die.To verify the presence of a fungal infection, it is necessary to remove one plant with drooping leaves from the soil along with a bulb and inspect. If the bulb is damaged, all plants should be treated. For fungal diseases, the soil under the tulips must be watered with copper preparations ( copper sulfate). If vitriol is not at hand - with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. You can spray all plants with a 1% Bordeaux mixture.
The most common pest on tulips is the onion mite. It can be found when inspecting the bulb in which the pest makes moves. With a plantation infected with a tick, proceed as follows. the bulbs are dug out and before laying on winter storage processed with hot water + 45 ° С for five minutes. The next year, it is better to break a flower bed with tulips in another place.
Have you ever seen large, healthy tulips in amateur gardens? Probably very, very rare. Although these joyful and bright first spring flowers are loved by everyone. People enthusiastically buy bulbs and plant them in their gardens in the hope that now they will surely admire the luxurious flowers every spring. Indeed, tulips differ from other bulbs, such as daffodils and hyacinths, in that they feel great in middle lane Russia. But over the years, and sometimes already the next year after planting, the bulbs become smaller, and then completely disappear. Surely this has happened with you. There are many reasons for this. Let's try to figure out the most common mistakes in tulip cultivation.
IMMEDIATELY such a gross violation of technology as the non-annual digging of bulbs should be excluded. To better understand what is the matter here, let us briefly consider the morphology and biology of this plant. You buy the bulbs in August - September. By this time, a flower bud is already fully formed in a large bulb. It is located in the center of the bulb at the top of the bottom. It is densely surrounded by 4-5 juicy, white scales, also sitting on the bottom. The structure of the onion will be clearly visible if you cut it in half lengthwise. But it is usually a pity to destroy a tulip, so do the same with a regular bulb. onions- their structure is similar.
Bulb
The tulip bulb is dressed in dense scales on the outside Brown... And under it are juicy scales containing a supply of nutrients sufficient to drive out the stem with leaves and bloom. This is the basis for forcing (obtaining flowers) bulbous in winter-spring time... The tulip bulb is annual, although the plant itself is considered a perennial. The fact is that buds are laid between the scales of the bulb, which develop during the growth of the stem and flowering and by the end of the growing season turn into new bulbs, in the amount of 1-5 pieces. They sit in the nest, clad in the shell of a completely depleted mother bulb. The largest of these new bulbs is called replacement, and the others are called smaller ones - bulbs of the second or third analysis, even smaller - children.
If the nest of new bulbs remains in the ground, then they will lack everything - food, water, air. This is the same as non-thinned seedlings of other crops - full-fledged plants will never grow from them. But in a tulip, all this is hypertrophied. Let me explain why.
Tulip is an ephemeroid with a very short growing season. After all, we plant the bulbs at the end of September, in October they take root (the roots grow up to 20 cm), bloom in May, and in June the aboveground part of them already dries up. And during these four months, the bulb must take root in such a way as to withstand the winter frosts, in the spring to form a stem with leaves and a flower or flowers, and also to give a whole nest of new bulbs, and the replacement in good conditions is not inferior in size to the mother bulb, and often exceeds her. Now we can conclude that, leaving the tulips un-dug, it will no longer be possible to restore their original qualities.
In addition to the annual digging, tulips for the same reasons require major preparation of the planting site. The plant must have enough nutrition to go through such a vigorous cycle of development and growth. Along with the quality of the planting material, it is the preparation of the land that will determine the success of the culture. The site should be chosen on a warm slope or flat surface, in the sun or in partial shade (diffused shade of trees), groundwater should not be closer than 60 cm from the surface. Tulips love the soil of medium or light loamy, with a neutral reaction, very high fertility and cultivated to a depth of at least 35 cm. This dosage is recommended for lean lands, with an average of 25 kg. organic fertilizers... It is not recommended to plant tulips on heavy, clayey soils and in damp places.
The land is prepared in the spring of the year of planting or in the fall of the previous year. In addition to organic fertilizers (it can also be humus or compost), lime is added - 200-400 g and simple superphosphate - 100 g per 1 m2. Double digging is used, and half of the fertilizers and all of the superphosphate are mixed with the lower layer of the earth, and the second half with the upper one. Sand is added to heavy lands - up to 20 kg per 1 m2. In summer, the site can be occupied with annual flowers or green vegetables, but it must be vacated a month before planting, at the end of August. Dig up, having previously scattered potassium magnesium - 100 g per 1 m2.
The best time to plant tulips in central Russia is from September 20 to 30. It is important to maintain the planting depth - there are two more bulb heights above the bulb. For large ones, it will be 10-12 cm from the bottom. And the distance between the bulbs is at least two of their diameters - 7-8 cm. Small bulbs and the baby are planted smaller and denser. Sand is poured under the bottom with a layer of 3 cm, and the onion with the head is also covered with it, so that there are fewer fungal diseases.
Landing
Inspect the bulbs carefully before planting. Their skin should be clean, without spots, and the bulb itself should be firm and heavy. Remove the skin from suspicious ones and, if spots appear on the white surface, destroy the onion. For prophylaxis, treat healthy bulbs with 0.2% foundationol for 30 minutes, dry and plant.
To get large flowers, extra bulbs are usually planted with a diameter of more than 4 cm and 1 parsing, with a diameter of 3.6-4 cm - for the Darwin hybrids class, in other classes, including Liliaceae, Terry, Fringed, Parrot, bulbs smaller in nature.
Care
Planting care is also important, although with good preparation of the land, it is insignificant. If the autumn is dry, then the plantings must be watered, and so that moisture saturates the ground to a root depth of 35 cm.Then mulch with weathered peat with a layer of 3 cm.In mid-October, add 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 for better growth roots. With the onset of frost, they cover them with spruce branches - from mice and in case of a winter with little snow. The bulbs not only take root in the fall, but also form a sprout that almost reaches the surface of the earth. That is why tulip tubes appear so early in spring, almost directly from under the snow. In harsh winters, the flower bud can be damaged.
In the spring, spruce branches are harvested and the plantings are immediately fed with ammonium nitrate in the same dose as in the fall. After 10 days, they are fed again with the same nitrate with the addition of potassium sulfate - 20 g, and after another two weeks - with one potassium sulfate, also 20 g per 1 m2. Tulips are also given 3-4 deep watering, and they are watered before the yellowing of the aerial part, about two weeks after the end of flowering. It is at this time that new bulbs continue to grow. Faded flowers must be pinched off. This technique is called decapitation. For a bouquet, tulips are cut with one or two leaves, otherwise good bulbs will not work.
Dig up the bulbs at the time of the yellowing of the aerial part, without waiting for complete drying. Otherwise, the nest will crumble and some of the bulbs will remain in the ground. These bulbs will go deeper into the ground every year, it will be difficult to dig them out. The dug out bulbs are dried under a canopy or in a shed for 3-4 days, then cleaned and stored in a well-ventilated room (for example, in the attic) at a temperature of 20 C until mid-August, and then at 17 C before planting, constantly monitoring their condition.
It is not so difficult to deal with tulip blooming. There are certain steps that you need to follow, getting from cell to cell, without changing the trajectory, and then you will achieve the result, eventually getting beautiful tulips.
Depending on the variety of tulips, their development sometimes occurs at different times, respectively, flowering also occurs at different periods. When you try to plant tulips so that they all arrive at the same time, or if you artificially drive them out at a certain time, you can screw something up somewhere, make incorrect calculations and ruin the tulip crop year.
But not everything, of course, depends on ourselves, because there are also external conditions, which, no doubt, are very important in the process of tulip flowering. One of the problems that is quite common is the short flower stalks of tulips. The question can be interpreted in different ways: why tulips have short peduncles, why tulips flower stalks are low, small, and so on. The bottom line is that the flower stalks of tulips do not meet the quality or standard at all, so they are much smaller even than the leaves of tulips, and this is not to the liking of all flower growers, especially those who grow tulips for sale.
If the reason for the improper care lies in us, then most likely we all watered little tulips, because of this, the soil mixture did not receive required amount moisture in order to feed the tulip bulb, which, in turn, did not feed the tulip arrow in any way. The solution in this case is very simple - water the tulips well, and then develop an irrigation system in such a way that the tulips will never again get sick from the lack of water.
There is also an option so that spring (and that's when tulips are planted) was very dry, then watering should also be increased. Although the reason for the short peduncles of tulips did not depend on you, the solution and the essence of the problem are still the same. A rapid rise in temperature can also affect. Tulips are very susceptible to any change, so it is not known how a particular variety might react to a whole bunch of different weather manifestations. At some certain point, some complex of external anomalies can lead to negative results in the process of our cultivation.
Basically, the problem is based on these two points, therefore, having corrected it, we can restore at least some part of the crop, and also, as an option, correct a little already chopped, short peduncles, but it happens that the cause cannot be identified and everything that no matter how hard you try, tulips still have short peduncles. Most likely, this or that variety just got accustomed to you. Try to plant a new one, hone your approach to caring for it, and then expect new results in the new year. Insofar as nutrients tulips are taken from a potting mix, it is important to understand what fertilizers we apply and how they will affect the plant. if you apply low-quality fertilizers, you can thereby spoil the bulb, disrupt it internal system circulation nutrients, and thereby worsen the peduncles. If this is the case, and you remember that you were adding something wrong to the earthen mixture, remove the irritate and try to restore the balance of the open ground.
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Timely and proper care behind the plants allows you to get high-quality tulip flowers and bulbs, but you should not forget about the health of the plants. For this, it is important to learn how to recognize diseases, know how to deal with them and, more importantly, be able to prevent these diseases. Preventive measures for the protection of tulips include the following measures:
Selection of a site for tulips that meets the requirements of this plant;
- careful preparation soil before planting;
- application of organic fertilizers only for the previous crop and within the required norms;
- timely feeding with mineral fertilizers with exact adherence to the dosage, especially nitrogen fertilizers, the surplus of which helps to reduce the resistance of plants to diseases;
- strict adherence to the cultivation-borot - tulips should be grown in the same place no more than once every 4-5 years. Good results are obtained by soil disinfection;
- careful selection and culling of sick and suspicious bulbs, planting only healthy planting material;
- compliance with the required depth and density of planting bulbs;
- timely implementation of care measures, maintaining a good sanitary condition and cleanliness of the tulip collection;
- timely harvesting of bulbs, drying with good ventilation;
- mechanical damage to the bulbs is unacceptable, it is necessary to reject damaged bulbs;
- use of disinfected containers for storing bulbs and tools for cutting flowers;
- removal and destruction of diseased plants along with roots and leaves.
Of course, the listed measures do not give an absolute guarantee that tulips will not get sick, but compliance with these measures will significantly reduce the degree of disease damage to plants, reduce the area of their distribution and reduce the loss of bulb yield.
Tulips, like any others ornamental plants, are damaged by a large number of different diseases and have numerous pests. More than 30 fungal, viral and bacterial diseases of tulips are known within our country, but many of them are quite rare. The greatest harm to tulips is caused by such fungal diseases like gray rot, fusarium blight, sclerocial rot. Of the viral diseases, variegation is the most dangerous. Non-communicable diseases do not pose a serious danger and arise as a result of unfavorable external conditions.
Fungal diseases of tulips
Gray rot
(pathogen - Botrytis tulipae) is most pronounced in rainy and cool weather, which contributes to the rapid spread of the fungus. The disease spreads very quickly, which is why it is often called “fire”. Tulips planted on heavy soils are particularly affected. Gray rot affects all aerial parts of the plant (leaves, stems, flowers and buds), as well as bulbs. Moreover, the bulbs are affected both during the growing season and during storage. Usually planted diseased bulbs or soil are the source of infection. On the affected parts of the plant, yellowish-gray depressed spots of various sizes and shapes appear. In a humid environment, the size of the spots quickly increases, and they quickly become covered with a gray coating from the spores of the fungus. The tissues of the diseased plant dry up, gradually soften and become ash-gray, it seems that the plant is burnt - hence another name - “tulip burn”. The stem of a diseased plant is bent, the buds do not develop, and if flowers are formed, then they are deformed, ugly in shape. The growing season of diseased plants is significantly reduced, so the bulbs do not have time to grow to their normal size and gradually become smaller.
Affected bulbs have yellow-brown spots in a reddish halo on the outer scales. During storage, the affected bulbs soften, darken and shrivel. Sometimes, with gray rot, cracking of the bottom of the bulb from the center to the edges is observed. On the surface of the covering scales of diseased bulbs, black sclerotia of the fungus appear, which become a new source of infection. If a tulip is severely affected by rot, the bulb rotted during storage, and if it is weak, the disease in the form of spotting may be unnoticed, and the bulb is planted in the soil.In the spring, such a bulb will give a weakened, curved shoot, which will gradually turn brown, become covered with a gray bloom and die. Fungus spores from such a plant are carried by the wind and infect healthy plants. In the soil, the spores of the fungus remain viable for 4 years. Therefore, in the spring, it is necessary to carefully examine the seedlings of tulips and destroy all sick and suspicious plants.
Gray rot can affect tulips at all stages of development, but they become especially susceptible during the budding period. The incubation period under favorable conditions is 1-3 days. The spread of the disease is facilitated high humidity soil and air, thickened plantings, insufficient illumination, excess nitrogen in the soil and spring frosts. Gray mold affects almost all tulip varieties, but not all are equally susceptible to the disease. Usually early varieties suffer less from rot, which have time to finish flowering before the maximum development of the disease. Of late-flowering tulips, parrots are relatively resistant.
Control measures: to prevent the defeat of the bulbs with gray rot in large flower farms, they are powdered with a mixture of TMTD, sulfur and ether-sulfonal in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 at the rate of 8-10 g per 1 kg of bulbs. TMTD is also used in the form of a solution of 0.3-0.5% concentration for etching the bulbs before planting for 30 minutes. It should, however, be remembered that dressing protects the bulbs from soil infection for a short time. Therefore, during the growing season of tulips, to protect against secondary infection, it is necessary to spray the plants. The number of treatments depends on weather conditions, the degree of contamination of the soil with infection and the state of the plantings. As a rule, 2-3 treatments are usually sufficient. For spraying use Bordeaux mixture of 1% concentration or euporen 0.5-1% concentration, which is considered the most effective remedy to combat gray mold. It is advisable to spray tulips three times: at the beginning of the growing season, during the budding period and after flowering.
As a result of many years of observations by flower growers, it has been noticed that the presence of sufficient potassium and magnesium in the soil reduces the incidence of gray rot, while the quality of the bulbs improves. And planting tulips on an area where they have already grown bulbous plants, increases the likelihood of disease by 4-10 times, compared to growing them in a new place. The same growers who try not to use chemical plant protection measures on their site can do without them. At the same time, it is important to observe the whole range of agrotechnical measures, timely cull and destroy diseased and suspicious bulbs and plants, which will significantly reduce the degree of damage to tulips by gray rot. In addition, to improve the soil, it is recommended, after digging the bulbs, to sow plants that emit phytoncides (calendula, marigolds, nasturtium, mustard, etc.) in the vacated area, followed by their autumn digging and embedding in the soil.
Root rot. Causative agent- mushrooms from the genus Ruthium, usually P. ultimum.
Brown spots on roots caused by Pythium sp.
In the early stages of the disease, symptoms are reduced to partial decay of the root system, which, however, does not significantly affect the viability of plants. Serious cases of infection lead to stunted tulips, a decrease in the decorative effect of flowers, the roots become transparent, watery with brown strokes, break easily, and later turn completely brown. The activity of the pathogen and the risk of disease increase with an increase in humidity and a rise in soil temperature above 0 ° C. Susceptibility to disease depends on the variety.
Control measures
For cultivation in open ground, greenhouse, boxes use fresh soil.
The contaminated substrate is disinfected with a fungicide.
It is very important that the soil is well structured and drained.
Botrythia rot. Causative agent- mushroom Botrytis cinerea.Typically, this pathogen invades damaged or weakened plant tissues.
Infected bulbs turn dark brown and soft. Large dull black sclerotia are formed on them. Infected tulips (the Dutch call them “spotted”) become brittle and can suddenly break. Flowers of diseased plants are dull in color. Heavily infected specimens lag behind in development or do not germinate at all. High humidity increases the disease, which is spread by spores (conidia) and is more common on long-stored, late-planted bulbs. The use of fresh peat or steamed soil also contributes to the activation of pathogens, since these substrates do not contain natural antagonists of the pathogen.
Control measures:
A little (20%) of coarse sand or disinfected soil is always added to clean peat.
Before planting, the bulbs are etched with a fungicide, and after that they are sprinkled with a layer of coarse sand.
Tulips are grown in open, well-ventilated areas.
Soft rot. Causative agent - some strains of the fungusPythium ultimum.Infected bulbs (they become pink, watery and give off a characteristic bad smell as with Fusarium lesion), short shoots develop. Seedlings and roots look healthy at first, then rot. With a later (during cultivation) infection, the tips of the leaves turn yellow, the plants go numb, the buds dry out just before flowering. Bulbs are usually attacked in the first few weeks after planting, when soil temperatures are 12 ° and above.
Soft rot on the bulbs
Photo from the magazine "Floriculture" - 2003 - №2
Control measures:
Same as for root rot.
In addition, the bulbs are treated with a fungicide. In the first two weeks after planting tulips, the temperature in the greenhouse is kept below 10-12 °.
White (sclerocial) rot. Pathogens - Scleritinia bulborum, Sclerotium tuliparium... There are several types of this disease. In one case, white rot affects the point of growth and the neck of the bulb, which are covered with a white felt bloom, later turning brown. Sometimes the disease manifests itself in the form of weeping rot around the growing point of the bulb. Gradually, rot covers the entire bulb, and it dies without sprouting. Since tulips affected by white rot die during the growing season, the planting material cannot be a source of infection. Infection occurs through the soil, in which the spores of the fungus can remain viable for up to 5 years.
Acidic soils and high humidity are especially conducive to the spread of this disease. Uneven seedlings in spring are the first sign of white rot infestation. Diseased bulbs usually do not germinate or give very weak shoots, which gradually turn yellow and die. A characteristic feature this rot is also served by the presence of a healthy root system in the diseased plant, which is not affected by the fungus. Watery spots appear on the shoots of affected plants, which become bluish-gray.
Control measures: soil, previously well-treated, a month before planting the bulbs, spill with a 2.5-3% solution (up to 6%) of carbation at the rate of 10 l / m 2. The soil treated with a 6% solution is watered with water. Diseased bulbs, together with the aerial part of the plant, are removed with a clod of earth and destroyed. The place of excavation is sprinkled with ash. To prevent this disease, it is also necessary to observe the culture rotation and return the tulips to their original place no earlier than after 5 years. Do not plant them after lilies, daffodils, irises and crocuses, also affected by this disease. If it is impossible to transplant tulips to a new place, the infected soil must be disinfected with a 1.5% formalin solution at the rate of 10 l / m 2. After processing, carried out at above-zero temperatures, the soil is tightly covered for 2-3 days. Formalin is also used to disinfect tools, tools, boxes with which the infection can be carried.
Tifulez- one of the varieties of sclerocial rot. Pathogen - Typhula bolealis... The first signs of the disease are reddish sprouts, non-expanding leaves, growth retardation, emerging buds remain underdeveloped. In affected plants, yellowing of the roots is observed, which then die off. The bottom of the bulb rots, and the plant dies completely. Typhulosis spreads especially strongly after a warm winter and wet spring (low above zero temperatures and humidity are favorable for the development of this disease). The source of infection is usually weakly infected bulbs that have fallen into storage and on the beds. The carriers of the disease are the weeds on which the causative agent of the disease lives, as well as the soil that serves as a carrier of fungal spores.
Control measures: removal and destruction of affected plants, timely weeding and removal of weeds from the site, careful examination and culling of bulbs during storage and dusting them chemicals before boarding. After the tulips have been dug, the site must be dug deeply with a turnover of the layer, since at great depths the spores of the fungus do not germinate and die over time (after 70-80 days). It is advisable to pickle the bulbs dug from the area where typhulosis was affected in a solution of 0.5% potassium permanganate. If you carry out chemical disinfection of the soil (with a 1.5% formalin solution at the rate of 10 l / m 2), then you can refuse from deep digging.
Fusarium, or wet rot causes great damage to tulips. Pathogen - Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. tulipae. Most often, the disease manifests itself by the end of the growing season, the development of the disease is facilitated by an increase in air temperature to 20 "C and more. Infection occurs through the bottom and roots, and in a young bulb through the covering scales. Plants with fusarium do not bloom well, their peduncles are short and thin, size The roots of these tulips are poorly developed and have a yellowish-brown color.
Fusarium infection
Photo from the magazine "Floriculture" - 2003 - №1
Fusarium can cause great damage during storage of the bulbs. During storage, bulbs sick with fusarium rot, and during this period, large losses in the yield of bulbs are possible. On the bottom of the infected bulb, brown spots appear, clearly bounded along the edge by a red-brown line. Gradually, the spots darken, the rot penetrates into the bulb, and it rots, emitting a pungent specific odor. Diseased bulbs in storage represent a significant source of contamination, and the disease can spread quickly as spores end up on healthy bulbs. This is also facilitated by the temperature in the storage facility (above 25 ° C) and high humidity. Spores caught on healthy bulbs during storage can cause their death in storage or in the next growing season. The causative agent of fusarium is highly resistant to adverse conditions external environment and remains viable for a long time. The greatest activity of the fungus is manifested at a temperature of about 25 ° C and an air humidity of over 90%. Tulips differ greatly in their resistance to Fusarium, but there are no varieties that are absolutely not affected by this disease.
Control measures: annual change of the site and return to the previous one not earlier than after 5-6 years, timely digging of the bulbs, a thorough examination of the plantings and bulbs in the storage and culling of diseased and suspicious bulbs. Such drugs as Uzgen, Fundazol and Benlight are highly effective in the fight against Fusarium. 2-3 weeks before planting or immediately before, the bulbs are etched in a suspension of the drug (0.2-0.25%) for 30 minutes. To make the preparation better adhere to the bulbs, dusting of pre-moistened bulbs can be applied.
Rhizoctonia disease. Causative agent- Rhizoctonia solani.The symptoms of this disease are different depending on the cultivation method. So, when grown in a greenhouse, orange-brown spots and stripes appear on seedlings. Later, the affected tissue cracks, the ends lower leaves bend back, but flowers look healthy. With more intense infection, the lower leaves and the underground part of the stem are damaged, on which oval, deeply depressed spots are formed. These tulips are stunted and break off easily. When cultivated in boxes, after bringing them into the greenhouse, small brown-black spots and stripes are visible on the shoots. Plants bloom normally despite damage to the ends of the lower leaves. Susceptibility to disease depends on the variety. The fungus infects many agricultural and garden plants including potatoes, lettuce, tomatoes, chrysanthemums, cereals. Therefore, an infection can appear even if the previous crop was not tulips. The pathogen develops well at 15-18 °. The disease is favored by high humidity and acidic reaction of the substrate, thickened planting.
Symptoms of Rhizoctonia solani on leaves
Photo from the magazine "Floriculture" - 2003 - №2
Control measures:
The infected substrate is steamed, the soil adjacent to the greenhouse is treated with a fungicide, which is carefully mixed with the top (10 cm) layer.
The distillation boxes are washed and dried well.
With 5-degree distillation technology, tulips are planted so that the tops of the bulbs remain above the substrate.
Plantings in boxes are mulched with coarse sand or fine gravel, without covering the tops of the bulbs.
The damaged leaves are removed.
Rhizoctonia. Causative agent- Rhizoctonia tuliparum.This fungus does not produce spores and usually infects bulbous plants at soil temperatures below 13 ° C. It is distributed by a contact-mechanical method, through planting material... With the constant cultivation of tulips in the same planting site, they can suffer greatly from the disease.
Typical symptoms of rhizoctonia on the bulb
Affected plants do not come out of the soil. They have well developed root system, however, the infected seedling develops normally at first, but soon begins to rot. Sometimes the soil around the bulb and the shoot is permeated with mycelium. It often contains sclerotia, shape, color, the size of which varies greatly. Large bulbs appear on the scales brown spots with gray "mold". On the transverse section of the bulb, which is usually rotting, the characteristic brown rings are visible. The focus of infection, as a rule, is clearly visible due to plants that are stunted and die prematurely. In heated greenhouses, at 20 ° C, the development of the disease stops.
Control measures:
Fresh substrate is used in the boxes; in the open field it is renewed.
The infected soil is steamed or treated with a fungicide.
Do not store the contaminated substrate near greenhouses.
Sick plants are destroyed.
Forcing boxes are cleaned, washed and dried well.
The planting material is etched with a fungicide.
Late boarding bulbs significantly reduces the risk of disease.
Trichoderma. Causative agent- Trichoderma sp.This fungus is commonly found in peat-based substrates. Infected roots become glassy, become covered with fungal hyphae and rot over time. The leaf tips of diseased plants turn light gray. At a later stage, the affected tissue turns white and dries up quickly. Tulips are more likely to get sick with late forcing in boxes with a purely peat substrate. Susceptible varieties include Ad Rem, Angelique, Coriolanus, Keys Nelis, Pax", "Prominence", "Rosario" and others.
Brown color of roots caused by the fungus Trichoderma sp.
Photo from the magazine "Floriculture" - 2003 - №2
Control measures:
Pure peat is always mixed with coarse sand or uninfected garden soil in equal proportions, fine-grained sand is poured on the bottom of the box in a layer of 1 cm.
In rooms where rooting takes place, a high relative humidity (90-95%) is maintained so that roots growing through the cracks of the boxes do not dry out.
Penicillosis appears on tulips during the growing season with high humidity, affects the bulbs, for a long time stored for spring forcing. Diseased bulbs are covered with yellow-brown spots with a bluish bloom, the plants are stunted and form weak peduncles. The death of a plant occurs only with a strong infection with a disease. This disease is not as harmful as sclerocial rot and usually accompanies gray rot or other tulip diseases. Infection of healthy bulbs with penicillosis is possible through mechanical damage to the scales and bottom.
Control measures: To prevent penicillosis, the main attention should be paid to observing the rules for storing the bulbs and creating optimal conditions for the growth and development of tulips during the growing season. If infected bulbs are found in storage, they should be etched in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried.
Viral diseases of tulips
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Variegated is the most common viral disease of tulips. This disease is as old as the history of tulips themselves in Europe. Back in 1576, Professor Clusius noted the appearance of variegated banding in tulips. But for a long time the reason that caused it was unknown and the sign of variegation was considered varietal. From the very beginning of tulip cultivation, varieties with variegated flowers were considered the most valuable, many growers sought to obtain such tulips. Obviously, almost all tulips with variegated petals were infected with viruses, and only a few of this trait was genetically fixed. Varieties with variegated or striped petals still exist today. And only in 1928 it was established that variegation is a disease of a viral nature. This virus not only changes the color of the flower, but also affects other decorative and biological traits: infected plants are weaker, their flower stems are shorter, in addition, the weight of the bulbs is reduced. Such tulips will continue to bloom and grow for many, many years, but the variety is gradually degenerating - the disease destroys the main characteristics inherent only to this variety. Such plants are no longer valuable and must be discarded. Although today there are lovers who like colorful tulips.
This disease is caused by the mosaic virus, or mottling. It affects exclusively plants of the lily family. In diseased plants, the formation of a coloring pigment - anthocyanin - is disrupted. The virus changes the color of the flower, it becomes heterogeneous. Depending on the original color of the variety, the virus on the flowers manifests itself differently. So, in pink, purple and lilac varieties, the color of the flower becomes heterogeneous: strokes appear along the edge of the petals on a white or yellow background, and in the middle of the petal there are asymmetrically located stripes against the background of the original color of the variety. In tulips of red, crimson and purple colors, their own color is enhanced in the form of streaks and stripes of a darker color. In this case, it is much more difficult to distinguish viral plants. It is even more difficult to recognize the presence of the virus in white and yellow varieties, since the shading on such flowers is not noticeable at all. But upon close examination, you can find the symptoms of the disease: a decrease in flowers and the general habit of the plant, a narrowing of the petals, especially in the lower part. Streaks and faint stripes of a pale green color sometimes appear on the stems and leaves. Near the stem, the petals do not touch each other, and gaps appear between them.
The variegation virus spreads with the sap of diseased plants, and it is transmitted different kinds aphids, thrips, leafhoppers, bugs, whiteflies and other insects. Since the mass appearance of these insects is observed in the second half of May, the motley virus is mainly affected by varieties of middle and late flowering periods. Early flowering varieties, including varieties from the Kaufman, Foster and Greig classes, are also susceptible to this virus, but by the time aphids appear, the aerial part of these tulips has already died off, and bulb infection becomes impossible. Often, infection occurs as a result of mechanical damage and when cutting flowers - through cutting tools.
Control measures: There are no special pesticides to combat the variegation virus, therefore the only way to reduce the likelihood of tulip infection is to take preventive measures, namely: removal and destruction of diseased plants along with the bulb, the infected plants are buried in deep holes and sprinkled with burnt lime. To prevent the disease in the vicinity of tulips, it is better not to plant lilies, on which the virus can be without visible signs of illness, and planting tulips after lilies is simply unacceptable. Another measure to prevent mottling is to thoroughly disinfect the cutting tools. In order to avoid the transfer of the variegation virus from diseased plants to healthy ones, one cannot use one knife for cutting flowers and decapitation. Experienced florists usually used for cutting several dozen razor blades. After use, the cutting tool is disinfected with potassium permanganate, alcohol, soda solution or formalin, or simply boiled. The likelihood of transmitting the virus is further reduced if you break off the flowers with your hands. One of the preventive measures is the growing of large bulbs from the baby, since it is believed that in most tulip varieties the baby is immune to the mottling virus. And since the main vectors of the virus are aphids, it is important to monitor their appearance on tulip plantings and timely control them.
Control measures: removal and destruction of infected plants with a clod of earth. Timely destruction of weeds that can serve as a source of infection. The soil after diseased plants must be disinfected, and the soil used for forcing must be steamed. After such treatment, the spores of the fungus die. And one of the main preventive measures is strict adherence to culture rotation. Even when planting absolutely healthy planting material in an area where diseased tulips have already grown, re-infection cannot be avoided.
Non-communicable tulip diseases
Mostly, these diseases appear during forcing and are usually caused by unfavorable external conditions.
The appearance of "blind" buds most often occurs during forcing, but may also occur when growing tulips outdoors. When tulips are planted too early, when the soil temperature is still quite high, the bulb actively starts to grow, but the roots develop poorly. This is a violation of the growth process and leads to the appearance of "blind" buds. Another reason for the appearance of "blind" buds - bulbs, sick with fusarium. It has been found that Fusarium-infected bulbs release ethylene, which has a detrimental effect on healthy bulbs and causes “blind” buds. Planting diseased bulbs will prevent healthy bulbs growing nearby from blooming.
Control measures: observance of the terms of planting and storage conditions of bulbs, careful culling of tulips infected with fusarium.
Drooping peduncle also commonly seen during forcing. A glassy spot with droplets of moisture appears on the top of the stem. The plant tissue in this place shrinks, and the stem droops. This lesion can appear on any part of the stem or on the leaves, but it usually manifests itself in the upper, most actively growing part. This disease is associated with a calcium deficiency in plant tissues with too much rapid growth tulip caused by high fever. Calcium, in comparison with other elements, is absorbed by the plant much more slowly and is transported by it for a longer time. Most often, the disease manifests itself in plants dug up too early, the bulbs of which did not have time to ripen.
Control measures: maintaining the correct temperature regime, curbing too much tulip growth when forcing by lowering the temperature. In addition, during active growth, it is useful to water tulips with a 1.5% solution of calcium nitrate or apply fertilizers containing calcium before planting in the soil.
Calcareous disease observed during storage of the bulbs. The bulbs are soaked in lime, as it were, becoming hard and white. The disease manifests itself in the case of premature digging of tulips, when the bulbs have not yet ripened, as well as at elevated temperatures and humidity in the storage.
Control measures: observance of the terms of digging the bulbs, maintaining optimal storage conditions.
Gum therapy bulbs are caused by excessive sunlight. Plants become most sensitive to light exposure at the end of April and in the first half of May. The disease often affects them during this period. On the storage scales of the bulbs, yellowish and bluish-brown spots appear, from which a colorless liquid begins to ooze, forming sagging when dry. Such bulbs are not carriers of infection and are quite healthy, normal plants grow from them. However, the spots of the disease can become a place for pathogens to enter the bulb and cause the plant to become infected with another disease.
Control measures: timely digging of the bulbs, shading them during harvesting in order to avoid sunburn... Etching the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate. Maintaining optimal storage conditions.
Pests
Root onion mite- the most dangerous pest, damaging not only tulips, but also many other types of bulbous and corms. This insect is less than 1 mm long, light yellow, shiny. The mite penetrates between the scales of the bulb, bites into its tissue, while the bulb quickly decays and may no longer germinate. If the bulb nevertheless sprouts, then it gives a low-growing weakened plant, a shoot. During the growing season, the growth of such tulips is delayed, they turn yellow, the quality of flowers deteriorates, and the leaves die off prematurely. Such plants usually become targets for attack by other diseases and die quickly. In some bulbs, small tunnels and cavities filled with brownish powder can be found, a typical sign of mite damage.
Bulbs can also be damaged by onion mites during storage if the pest remains on old scales and roots. It reproduces especially well at a temperature of about 25 ° C and an air humidity of more than 70%. Under unfavorable conditions, ticks enter the resting stage and can maintain their viability for a long time. In mite-infected bulbs, the outer surface of the scales is gradually covered with brown dust, the bulbs rot and dry out. The pest spreads through the soil, with planting material or is carried on tools during tillage.
Control measures: careful examination of the bulbs during digging and storage and removal of mite-affected plants. Collect and destroy after digging all plant residues... Before storing the planting material, it is necessary to pickle for 10-15 minutes in a 0.3% solution of celtan or rogor, then dry and store in normal conditions... You can sprinkle the bulbs with chalk, which sticks to the body of the ticks, and they die from desiccation. An effective way to combat onion mites is to heat the bulbs. Affected bulbs are immersed in hot water(35-40 ° C) for 5 minutes. It is better to plant the treated bulbs on a separate bed. If a tick is found on tulips during their growing season, they are sprayed with a 0.2% solution of rogor or celtan, but it is better to dig up and destroy the infected plants. On a site infected with an onion mite, bulbous and corms cannot be grown for 3-4 years. For preventive purposes, after digging tulips (or other bulbs), plants resistant to this pest are planted on the site: tagetes, pyrethrum, tomatoes, radishes and others.
Greenhouse aphid attacks tulips when forcing. It is an insect up to 2 mm long, oval, yellow, green or pinkish in color, wingless (winged individuals appear during the breeding season). Aphids appear on the stems, leaves and peduncles of tulips, but they can also damage the bulbs. The pest feeds on plant sap. Parts of the plant damaged by aphids are deformed and may die. But aphids are much more harmful as a possible carrier of viral diseases, especially variegation.
Control measures: good results in the fight against aphids are obtained by the use of various pesticides. The use of insecticidal plants (pyrethrum, tagetes and many others), which are planted next to tulips, also has a healing effect. It is also important to strictly observe their dosage when applying fertilizers, since overfeeding with nitrogen reduces the resistance of plants to diseases and pests, including aphids.
Onion hoverfly damages mainly daffodils and amaryllis, but also occurs on tulips. Onion hoverfly is a greenish fly up to 1 cm long. But the main harm to tulips is caused not by the fly itself, but by its larvae, which appear in June and (second generation) in September. The larvae enter the tulip bulb through the bottom and make moves in it. Affected bulbs grow poorly and do not give flower stalks, the leaves of such a tulip turn yellow and wither ahead of time, and if severely damaged, the plant may die. Fly larvae hibernate in bulbs, in soil and in storage facilities.
Control measures: removal and destruction during the growing season of plants affected by onion hoverfly, otherwise the pest can move to healthy bulbs. After digging, the bulbs can be disinfected in a 0.75% solution of karbofos for 5-10 minutes. You can destroy the larvae in the onion by using heat treatment... Soak the infected bulbs in hot water (at a temperature of no more than 43 ° C) for 2 hours. As an effective method of combating this pest, deep autumn digging of the soil with a turnover of the layer is also recommended. Mulching of the soil with peat reduces the spread of onion hoverfly, as it prevents the laying of eggs. Dusting the soil with mothballs scares off flies from planting tulips. As a prophylactic agent, it is useful to plant plants that emit phytoncides around the perimeter of tulip beds. Watering tulip plantings with infusion is also effective. wood ash(500 g per 10 l of water) at the rate of 5 l / m 2.
Purple scoop causes the greatest harm to tulips in the larval stage. The lilac scoop itself is a butterfly with a wingspan of up to 5 cm, which lays eggs on plant stems in August-September. Its caterpillars are reddish-purple in color, bite into the stem of a tulip at the root collar and make moves in it, then the caterpillar moves to a neighboring plant, and so on. Often, plants damaged by caterpillars die. Eggs of lilac moths overwinter on plants and plant debris.
Control measures: timely weeding, collection and destruction of plant residues. In May-June, dusting of the lower part of the stems of tulips with naphthalene or other preparations is used.
Khrushchev(larvae May beetles) damage the roots and bulbs of tulips. White fleshy larva 4-6 cm long, with a dark brown head, develops in the soil for 4-5 years, feeding first on humus, and then on plant food.
Control measures: an effective means is deep digging of the soil with rotation of the layer and collection of larvae. This is also facilitated by frequent loosening of the soil.
Wireworms damage tulip bulbs during their active growth, gnawing passages in them. Such bulbs easily rot and are affected by other diseases. Wireworms are the larvae of the click beetle that look like pieces of copper wire from where they get their name. Beetles lay their eggs in the soil near the root collar of plants. Areas overgrown with weeds, especially wheatgrass and sow thistle, which are the main food of wireworms, are especially favorable for laying. Beetles and larvae hibernate in the soil.
Control measures: timely and systematic removal of weeds, deep digging and loosening of the soil. Reducing the acidity of the soil by adding lime, chalk or ash, since wireworms prefer acidic soils. Laying out baits (pieces of potatoes, beets) and planting bait plants (wheat, oats, corn, barley) also contribute to a decrease in the number of pests. The introduction of ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate into the soil in an amount of 20-30 g / m 2 creates unfavourable conditions for the reproduction of beetles and leads to a reduction in the number of their larvae.
Medvedka causes significant damage to plants, gnawing their stems and roots. This insect is brown in color, 4-5 cm long, its front legs are adapted for making moves. The bulk of the passages is located at a depth of 2-4 cm, the pest goes deeper only for wintering and for laying eggs. Around its nest, the bear destroys all plants so that the nest warms up well (it is usually located at a depth of 10-15 cm) - this serves as a good guide for finding and destroying its nests. You can also detect the presence of a bear on the site by the numerous holes and holes in the soil, which become especially noticeable after rain or watering.
Control measures: nests of the bear are destroyed during deep loosening of the soil or digging, while the eggs and larvae thrown to the surface die. The most common way to deal with a pest is by setting traps. Starting in spring, sheets of plywood, slate, iron, etc. are laid out on the site, under which the insect crawls to warm itself. All that remains is to regularly view the traps and destroy pests. The use of bait pits is especially effective. In early autumn, holes up to 0.5 m deep are dug on the site and filled with manure. Insects settle in such pits for the winter. After that, with the onset of frost, manure is scattered from the pit, and the pests die. In the same way, you can fight with bears in early spring. To do this, small piles of manure are laid out on the site, in which the bears arrange egg-laying. Periodically, once a month, piles of manure are examined and pests are collected. You can catch a bear and water traps. For this, banks filled with water are buried in the ground so that it does not reach the edges by 8-10 cm. Once in the water, the pest cannot get out of it. All that remains is to bypass the traps every morning and destroy the pests that have fallen into them.
Slugs and snails cause a lot of trouble, especially in wet weather. They eat young shoots and leaves of tulips, gnaw grooves in the bulbs.
Control measures: effective in the fight against slugs, dusting the soil with tobacco dust or other means. In addition, traps are laid out on the site (pieces of plywood, boards, wet rags, bunches of fresh grass, etc.), under which there are quite a few slugs. Traps are regularly inspected and pests are destroyed.
Mouse rodents harm tulip bulbs during their growth and especially during storage.
Control measures: placement of poisonous baits in storage, dusting of bulbs with red lead iron, which reduces the attractiveness of bulbs for mouse-like rodents, placement of mousetraps.
N. Malov "Tulips" - M .: OLMA-PRESS, 2001. - 96p.
Materials of IBC "Bulbous distillation: diseases and control measures" // "Floriculture" - 2003 - №1,2
Tulips can be affected by fungal, bacterial, viral and non-infectious diseases. Preventive measures can help protect tulips from most of them. In our article - the most common diseases of tulips with photos, as well as methods of their treatment.
Fungal diseases of tulips
The most common fungal diseases include:
1. Fusarium (wet rot) infects tulip bulbs by penetrating through the roots and bottom. Diseased plants give short peduncles and roots, small buds. The disease is expressed by a putrid odor and the appearance of brown spots on the bulb, leading to its softening and decay.
Pre-planting treatment with a 0.2-0.25% solution of foundationol or uzgen of bulbs will protect tulips from disease.
One of the most common tulip diseases is fusarium.
Attention! Fusarium causes the greatest damage during storage of bulbs, leading to significant losses of planting material. The microclimate of the storage contributes to the spread of fusarium - high humidity in combination with t ° from + 25 ° C.
2. Gray rot is a disease transmitted through infected bulbs. It manifests itself in spots of brown color, over time causing darkening and shrinking of the bulbs.
The infected plant serves as a source of infection for other flowers. With a mild disease, signs of damage on the bulb are practically invisible, appearing on the overgrown aerial parts in the form of gray-yellow spots that increase during wet weather and become covered with a gray bloom. The disease causes softening and drying of tissues, leads to deformation of peduncles, leaves and buds, in some cases - to a lack of flowering.
Compliance with the rules for growing tulips and storing bulbs will help protect plants from gray rot. The dug out bulbs should be etched with foundation (0.2% solution) for 30 minutes before storage. Re-processing of the bulbs is carried out immediately before planting. During the growing season, to protect against infection with gray rot, it is recommended to spray tulips 2-3 times with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or euporenom (0.5-1%), for the first time - after the emergence of sprouts, the second time - after 2 weeks.
3. Soft rot - a disease that affects tulip bulbs, making them watery, staining pink. Infected bulbs are easily recognizable due to their putrid odor. When tulips are affected during the growing season, the disease manifests itself as yellowing of the tips of the leaves, leading to premature drying of the buds. Protect tulips from soft rot treatment of the bulbs with a fungicide will help.
Attention! The disease affects the bulbs in the first weeks after planting in greenhouses, if the soil temperature exceeds 12 ° C, therefore it is recommended to maintain the soil temperature at 10 ° C for the first 2 weeks.
Viral diseases of tulips
1. Necrotic spotting (August disease), manifests itself in the form of brown streaks, causing drying and cracking of plant tissues. As a result, infected tulips gradually dry out, or retain their vitality, form deformed buds, and in some cases do not bloom.
Brown spots appear on the bulbs, which are transmitted to children. Diseased plants become susceptible to fungal diseases.
Compliance with the rules of cultivation and crop rotation will help protect tulips from necrotic spotting. Affected plants are to be destroyed, along with an earthen clod.
Attention! Disease of necrotic spotting is most susceptible to early varieties tulips.
2. Variegation - the disease is expressed by a violation of the formation of pigment - the appearance of a variegated color of buds, leading to a change in honeycomb characteristics and degeneration of plants. The vectors of the disease are insects: thrips, aphids, whiteflies and others.
Attention! The disease of variegation spreads with plant sap, therefore, the source of damage is often cutting tools used for cutting flowers.
The destruction of harmful insects and the timely destruction of diseased plants, the rejection of the joint cultivation of lilies and tulips, the disinfection of cutting tools with a solution of potassium permanganate, soda or alcohol will help protect tulips from disease.
Non-communicable diseases of tulips
The source of this type of disease is unfavorable external factors.
1. The drooping of the peduncle is caused by a lack of calcium in the tissues during the period of accelerated growth caused by increased temperature. The cause of the disease is an unripe bulb dug out too early. The disease manifests itself in the form of a vitreous spot in the upper part of the plant. Compliance with the temperature regime, additional fertilizing with fertilizers containing calcium will help prevent the development of the disease.
Lack of flowers in tulips - planting too early or improper storage of bulbs
2. Blind buds appear as a result of violation of the rules for storing bulbs. The second reason is early planting in insufficiently cooled soil, which is why the bulbs are actively moving into growth, while the root system practically does not develop, causing a growth imbalance. The second cause of the disease is infection of the bulbs with Fusarium. Planting such bulbs provokes a lack of flowering in neighboring healthy tulips.
To prevent the development of the disease, compliance with the conditions for planting bulbs (soil temperature + 5-10 ° C), ensuring appropriate storage conditions, and rejection of bulbs infected with fusarium will help.
3. Limestone disease affects tulips if the bulbs are stored in humid rooms with high temperatures. The cause of the disease is the digging of unripe bulbs. The disease is expressed by the appearance of white hard spots on the bulbs.
Features of prevention
Carrying out certain measures can significantly reduce the level of diseases and reduce the area of their distribution:
- careful selection of the site, in accordance with the requirements for growing tulips;
- soil preparation, applying the necessary fertilizers to it;
- when cultivating tulips in a greenhouse - an annual soil change;
- soil treatment with fungicides before planting the bulbs;
- compliance with the conditions of crop rotation when growing in the open field - re-planting of tulips in one place is possible after 4 years;
- competent feeding with the help mineral fertilizers... Overdose nitrogen fertilizers leads to a decrease in the resistance of tulips to diseases;
- compliance with planting conditions, lack of thickening.
- weeding, timely destruction of infected plants;
- rejection of diseased and mechanically damaged bulbs;
- storage of bulbs in appropriate conditions and using a disinfected container.
Tulips are popular garden flowers with a variety of shapes and colors. The ability to recognize the signs of diseases and know how to deal with them, and most importantly, how to prevent the development of diseases in flowers, will allow you to grow beautiful and healthy tulips, and, accordingly, get high-quality planting material for their cultivation.
