From plants sheltered for the winter. How to tie ornamental grasses? Preparing plants for winter

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Winter is a difficult test for our plants. For trees, and this is much more dangerous than for herbaceous plants, since their buds are high above the ground, are not protected by snow cover and are open to winds and frost.

So that in the spring you will not be disappointed, it is necessary to select an assortment that will endure our winter well. The quality also plays a significant role. planting material. Plants should have a well-developed root system that is not damaged during digging and transportation.

At the end of autumn, it is necessary to help the plants go into a dormant state. From the second half of summer, young shoots stop growing in length and begin to be covered with bark, which protects the branches in winter. Branches that have not formed a bark will not survive until spring.

By the end of July, trees and shrubs stop applying nitrogen, which stimulates plant growth. To prepare for winter, plants need potassium and phosphorus (fertilizer doses should be read on the package).

It is also necessary to cover plants that were planted this year and those that need to be acclimatized. After that, the plants adapt and they no longer need shelter. Some, especially tender plants, for example, rhododendrons, cover every year. This, of course, adds to the hassle in the garden, but the flowering of these plants is so bright, unusual and exquisite that all the labor and time spent is paid off by the joy that we get when contemplating this flowering. In order to overwinter well, they must be watered abundantly, until the first frost. Evergreens in the first two or three years are best covered with spruce branches. And undersized - fall asleep with dry oak leaves. Deciduous rhododendrons (azaleas) are covered using a different technology. Branches need to be bent to the ground and lightly sprinkled with soil. In winter, they will be covered with snow, and they will not freeze.

Shelter begins to be carried out when the air temperature drops to -5 C at night. You should not do this earlier, because the plants need to get a little hardened, get used to low temperatures. Night frosts and small frosts are not terrible for them. The main one is spruce or pine spruce branches. It helps to accumulate snow, which protects the plant from severe frost.

But, mice love to settle in such cozy huts in winter. They eat the bark of trees and shrubs, and this can lead to the death of the plant. Mice especially love fruit trees. We'll have to put the poison under cover. Most convenient way are wheat grains treated with poison. You can buy them at hardware stores and garden centers.

Shelter must not damage or break the branches of plants in any case. Therefore, sprawling bushes will first need to be carefully tied with a rope, then wrapped with burlap and only then covered with spruce branches in three layers. Fragile plants cannot be tied; for them, special frames must be made, which are covered with burlap and covered with spruce branches. For rhododendron bushes, these can be cubes, and for young Christmas trees, pyramids with three or four faces.

Snowless frosty winters pose a significant danger, when even good shelter cannot save plants from damage. It's not scary if the frosts last 1-2 days, it's bad when they stand for a long time. Therefore, those plants that need shelter are best placed in places protected from the wind, where more snow accumulates.

The spruce branches should be positioned in such a way that the upper side of the branches, where the needles are thicker, looks up, which means that snow will accumulate better. The spruce branches are also fixed with a rope.

Branches and buds are adapted to withstand very coldy, which cannot be said about the roots. They suffer greatly in snowless winters, so we must try to accumulate snow in trunk circles. The same spruce or pine spruce branches can help with this.

In the spring, when the temperature is set to 0-5 C, and the snow begins to melt, the shelter is removed. This usually happens in the second half of March. Do not open the plants immediately, it is better to do it gradually: first remove the spruce branches, and after a few days the burlap.

For winter shelter of plants, you can also use agrotextile or agrofibre. Agrofibre comes in different densities: 17, 23, 30, 40, 50, 60 mm per kV m. The greater the density of agrofibre, the more it protects against temperature changes. Features of agrofibre are that it promotes air circulation inside and outside, reflects UV light, lets heat in, thereby creating a microclimate inside the covered plants. Agrofibre with low density can be used in spring to protect crops, plantings, plants from spring frosts.

Danger threatens plants even when winter is ending and the sun is getting brighter. First of all, this applies to conifers, which in the second half of winter suffer from sunburn. Bright light is amplified by the reflection from the snow and damages the needles. You can protect plants from the sun with the help of burlap, in which the crown is simply wrapped. You can remove this shelter when all the snow has melted. After a few years, the plants will adapt and there will be no need to hide them.

It is impossible not to say about how the lawn winters, because these are also plants. lawn grasses Also, you can't feed nitrogen fertilizers starting from August. From now on, only potassium and phosphorus, elements that help plants prepare for winter, can be given. Do not mow the lawn before the onset of winter, let the grass 8-10 cm long go under the snow. Just like for woody plants, for the lawn the best protection from frost is a soft blanket of snow. In rare cases, when there are severe thaws and the snow melts, an ice crust can form on the surface of the lawn, which must be broken, because it does not allow the grasses to breathe. And of course, it is not permissible to arrange an ice skating rink on the lawn.

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Majority garden plants(fruit, ornamental and berry) tolerates winter well and does not need any shelter. However, some of these plants, if certain conditions coincide, can be damaged. For example, in early spring there was little snow and a lot of sun. At the same time, some coniferous plants may burn. Or frequent change of thaws and frosts. Or severe long frosts, withering plants.

It often happens that the same plants tolerate a harsh winter well, but die in a warm one. Apparently, the coincidence of a number of other conditions affects here. And in the fall you can’t guess what winter will be like and how it will affect different plants.

In addition, the microclimate in different zones garden plot also changes.

The photograph shows that in one winter the fir near garden house was open. And in another it was covered with snow.

Therefore, significantly easier in autumn cover those plants that may suffer in winter. And sleep peacefully afterwards.

For example, in Siberia, it is imperative to cover garden blueberries and rhododendrons, as well as fir, if it is located in a sunny place. It is advisable to cover thujas and rare conifers in the first few years after planting in the ground. It is desirable to cover roses for the winter, but in spring time- necessarily.

There are many ways to cover plants, all have their advantages and disadvantages.

Of all the tested ones, we liked the shelter with the help of needle-punched geotextile brand “D” the most. It is a white synthetic fabric, strong and durable.

When do we cover plants? After the onset of permanent negative temperatures-6-8 Happy day and night. It is better to cover the plants later than before. During autumn thaws, plants can prop up or grow under cover.

How do we hide? We lay the fabric on the plants so that an air cavity forms under it and so that it does not touch the plants. There should be a gap of at least five centimeters between the fabric and the plants.

To do this, we throw the fabric on the supports, which hold the weight of the snow and create an air cavity inside.

Supports can be: chocks, logs, racks (bars) hammered into the ground, wooden or plastic crates, arches, masonry mesh.

We used plastic arcs as supports. When sheltering roses, they were strongly bent under the weight of wet snow in the spring. Then, when the snow melted, they partly straightened out.

But when sheltering rhododendrons, the arcs withstood the weight of the snow, since the distance between the ends of the arcs was small and their degree of rigidity was higher.

We lay the geotextile on the supports so that there are holes for ventilation along the edges. The cracks should be 5-10 cm wide, in winter they will fill up with snow. But they are needed mainly in the spring, when the snow is actively melting and ventilation of excess moisture from under the shelter is needed.

The edges can be attached to the ground using bent electrodes. But it is better with the help of washers for fixing the insulation, without a dowel. Such washers are plastic and galvanized. It is better to use galvanized, as they are more durable. Press the geotextile to the ground, put a washer on top, insert a construction nail 200 mm long into the central hole and hammer it into the ground with a hammer.

Examples of plant cover.

Blueberry.

The shoots were tilted and attached to the ground with electrodes bent in the form of the letter "P".

Along the perimeter of the bush, logs were installed as racks.

Geotextiles were thrown on top and attached to the ground.

Rhododendrons.

Two plastic arcs were installed above the bush.

They put geotextiles on them and attached it to the ground.

Roses.

We cut off the unripened shoots and remove the leaves.

Long shoots were tilted and attached to the ground with electrodes.

Plastic arcs were installed on top.

Geotextiles were placed on the arcs and attached to the ground.

In the spring, the shelter was removed only after new shoots grew by 4-5 cm. We remove geotextiles in the evening or cloudy weather.

For the experiment, part of the geofabric was removed and replaced with a black “T” brand geotextile. After the geofabric was removed, it was noticed that rose shoots began to grow faster under the black geotextile than under the white one. Apparently this is due to the fact that the black fabric was heated in the sun and it was warmer under it than under the white fabric.

Therefore, in winter, roses can be covered with white geotextile of brand "D", and in spring, replace it with brand "T".

Tui.

Above the plant, a frame was made of slats.

The frame was wrapped with two layers of geotextile and tied with a cord.

A ventilation hole was left at the top, and the geofabric was additionally tied with wire for strength.

It's getting colder outside, people are putting on warm jackets. In the garden, it's time to protect plants from frost! Why is it important to know how to properly protect plants from the cold? In this article, we will tell you which plants need to be protected from frost, and when it is best to do so that they can cope well with cold winds and low temperatures. In the photo you can see how the winter coating can look aesthetically pleasing and even, to some extent, provide a decorative effect!

Covering plants for the winter allows the most sensitive species of trees and shrubs to overwinter. Sometimes you can find opinions that shelter from frost is an unnecessary procedure, and sometimes even harmful. This assumption is probably due to mistakes that can be made in the course of protecting plants from frost with unsuitable materials or if work is carried out at the wrong time. When and how to cover plants for the winter correctly?

In winter, the frozen ground does not allow the plant to consume enough water, while the cold wind increases the effect of cold, as a result, the plant is subject to freezing and drying out. This is especially dangerous for evergreen crops. To protect against frost, it is very important to know at what temperature it is optimal to cover the plants, and for which crops which type of cover is best. Let's consider these questions in more detail.

What plants require frost protection?

• evergreens, for example, rhododendron, Japanese cherry, laurel;
• roses, for which you should make a mound of soil or compost (while trying to avoid peat);
• magnolias, honeysuckle, garden hydrangeas are also subject to shelter;
• don't forget the grass, and especially the Japanese sedge.

How to protect ornamental grasses?

After the ornamental grasses fade in autumn and the first frosts begin, it is worth considering how to ensure their wintering. Many species require additional shelter. It is worth noting that in the first year, almost all newly planted ornamental grasses require frost protection.

How to tie ornamental grasses?

As soon as we see that the stems and leaves of ornamental grasses begin to wither, we should begin to prepare them for the cold. It is best to choose a day with dry and sunny weather for this event, if possible. On such a day, grass leaves are easier to tie into bunches. If you are sure that the stems of ornamental grasses are dry, you can proceed to tying them. Some sheaves need to be tied in two or three places to form correct form ligaments. Proper bunching is very important, because during windy weather and on frosty days some crops lose their leaves, as is often the case, for example, with the leaves of the giant Miscanthus.

In order to tie the leaves of ornamental grasses, it is best to use jute or packing twine (it can also be a simple cord). It is strong and holds the bundled stems well, which, under their own pressure on windy days, can break a weak knot.

The binding of ornamental grasses should be double, as in the photo. It is very important not to cut wilted leaves in the fall, as they provide extra protection from frost.

Bark, peat or spruce branches?

If frost persists for more than three days, it is advisable to protect ornamental grasses with bark mounds. It is important not to do this too early because the stems can become steamed and rot, which negatively affects their health and survival in winter.

Usually pine bark or dry horticultural peat is used. You should scatter them around the grass and form small hill which reliably protects root system.

Mound of pine bark at grass roots

Branches and agrofibre

Evergreen ornamental grasses (for example, Japanese sedge or fescue) should additionally be covered with spruce branches for the winter, that is, with branches coniferous trees or agrofibre. For shelter, only suitable white agrofibre can be used. Before using this material, evergreen grasses must be tied, but not too tightly, then covered with agrofibre and tied again so that snow does not penetrate from above.

Straw

Another material that will help protect ornamental grasses for the winter is straw mats. Mats are placed around the sheaf and carefully tied. To protect against frost, it is worth avoiding the use of colorless film, bags or bags from coniferous bark!

Ornamental grasses, even tied in bunches, will beautifully decorate any garden. Sprinkled with snow, they create a mysterious atmosphere in the garden.

Plant protection in pots

Plants grown in pots also require protection in winter. They hibernate best in bright light. cool place at a temperature of 5 °C. When it is not possible to move the pots into the room, you can bury them in the ground, preferably in a calm place. If this is not possible, at least very simple protection against low temperatures should be provided. Namely, it is necessary to make sure that the pots do not stand directly on a concrete or stone surface. To do this, you can put a layer of foam about 10 cm thick under them, which isolates the pots from concrete or stone. This arrangement will prevent freezing of the roots.

Overview of materials

Permeable materials should be used to shelter plants from frost. Film or other waterproof and airtight covering materials should not be used, as this will cause the plants to overheat, lose hardening, and then freeze. Lack of ventilation also leads to the development of fungal diseases, so you should take care of some air access.

For winter shelter, you can use:

• white agrofibre 50 g/m² thick, with which the plant is wrapped two or three times;
• needles and spruce branches (branches) of coniferous trees;
• shading nets;
• straw mats;
• in some cases horticultural peat;
• leaves that fall from trees in autumn.

White agrofibre tied with decorative tape

A photo. Use of agrofibre and pine bark. We tie the whole bush with white agrofibre and tie it with a decorative ribbon, and warm the roots with a slide of pine bark.

A photo. Roses covered with straw

In winter, plants risk losing a lot of water because they are unable to get enough water through the root system if the soil is very frozen. Therefore, it is desirable to perform mulching around the plants, thereby protecting them from freezing of the soil. You can make a mound of earth, compost or bark to a height of 20-30 cm right at the base of the bush.

Frost-sensitive perennials and small shrubs can be covered with spruce branches (coniferous branches). Here you can also add decorative elements to improve the aesthetic effect. Such compositions often become not only effective measure sewn up, but also a real decoration of a sleeping winter garden.

Evergreen hardwoods and conifers require shelter at a young age, especially from frosty, dry winds and the sun, which creates large temperature differences between day and night, which often occurs in February-March. To do this, you can use branches of coniferous trees, agrofibre, straw or corrugated cardboard.

A film or other material that is impervious to air is not suitable for coating, as it contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Covering is carried out after the appearance of small frosts - in November - December, depending on the climatic zone.

Tall shrubs (such as magnolias) are less resistant to frost and require shelter, especially when young. Covering the entire bush more than 1 m in height is quite troublesome. Therefore, it is desirable to protect at least the base of the bush by 30 cm in height. In the event of freezing during a harsh winter, the upper part of the bush, the base with dormant buds will endure frost without damage and give new shoots that can quickly restore the bush. Suitable for this purpose:

• sawdust;
• bark;
• the soil;
• mulch (fallen leaves).

rose care

In order to cover roses for the winter, the best and cheapest way is to use the earth, which is raked into mounds, and then covered with branches, making a mound 20-30 cm high. When raking the mounds, care should be taken not to expose or damage the roots . Therefore, in the place where we take the earth for the mounds, it is recommended to scatter well-decomposed cattle manure, which in the spring we cover with earth taken from the mounds. But for the mounds themselves, you can’t use manure!

Good to know! Low rose bushes can be bent to the ground and a hill of earth can be poured on top to protect against frost.

To shelter roses on a trunk from frost, you need to tie the bowl and gently tilt it to the ground, then you should strengthen it with sticks so that it does not straighten. After that, the bowl (most sensitive to frost) is covered with a mound of earth, compost, bark or sawdust. The thickness of the mound should be about 20 cm. For a full guarantee, you can also cover the trunk.

Deadlines

When and at what temperature should plants be covered? The time when plants should be covered depends on the climate of a particular area, it comes when the first frosts begin, on average, this is mid-November. You can not cover the plants too early, because winter shelter will raise the temperature of the soil, which can lead to further vegetative growth of plants, delaying their entry into a state of winter dormancy. In this case, the plants may die from rotting. Therefore, shelter should be done only when regular frosts have set in, and the soil has frozen to a depth of 3-4 cm.

Everything that is useful to us for work, for example, agrofibre, protective caps and other materials, should be prepared in advance so that everything is ready and we do not miss the right moment.

Many species and varieties of plants are not resistant to frost and require shelter. There are many ways to protect, it is only important to choose the most suitable one depending on the type of plantings. In addition to agrotextiles, other materials and raw materials available in the garden can also be used: straw, dry leaves, sawdust, softwood branches, straw mats and bark will be suitable for covering from the cold.

It is also important not to miss the timing of the onset of frosts, and at the same time not to cover the plantings too early so that they do not enter the growing season and do not rot. This should be done when the first frosts appear, and the topsoil freezes. In November, the weather sometimes plays tricks and, despite some cooler days, it can also surprise you with warm and sunny days. Therefore, it is important to wait until the temperature (during the day) is around -5 degrees for several days in a row.

The owners of plots with blackberry plantings, especially beginners, often face questions in the fall: should bushes be covered for the winter, and if so, when should this be done. This article is devoted to the answers to these questions. We will tell you about what materials are best for covering, when to cover and how to do it competently.

Things to take care of in the fall before shelter

In order for the blackberry to endure wintering more easily, before shelter it is necessary:

1. Continue to water the bushes after harvest until the onset of cold weather, if the weather is dry.
2. Thin out the shoots, cutting off those that have already yielded a crop, as they have served their time, as well as young branches. 6 to 8 branches are enough for 1 bush. The remaining branches are shortened by about 20 cm.
3. Weed the weeds, loosen the soil.
4. fertilize potash fertilizers without chlorine - it will facilitate wintering.
5. Sprinkle the soil with sunflower leaves or husks to protect the roots and retain moisture.
6. Remove the plant from the supports and gently press it to the ground. The closer to winter, the bushes will be more brittle, so you need to remove them earlier. If the plant is upright, you need to bend down gradually, weighting the top with some kind of load.

Important! To avoid the spread of diseases and the reproduction of pests, cuttings of blackberry bushes should be thrown into the fire.

When is the best time to start hiding?

Blackberry bushes freeze at a temperature of about -17 ° C, a sharp drop in temperature is especially dangerous, which can destroy the plant even at -10 ° C. Best time for shelter comes at a time when the temperature is constantly kept at -5 ° C, that is, usually at the end of October or at the beginning of November (the time period may vary depending on the region).
If you cover the bushes ahead of time, then under the influence of heat they will continue to grow, and in the absence of light and ventilation, the young shoots will rot and rot. Rotting of roots and ground shoots is promoted by condensate that forms under cover from excess heat and lack of air.

Important! High humidity is a companion of fungal diseases.

Thaws are dangerous, as the resulting moisture turns into ice during subsequent frosts, and the blackberry dies.

How to cover blackberries for the winter

For shelter, you can use improvised or purchased materials.

improvised materials

As improvised materials for shelter, suitable:

1. The soil- This type requires a lot of time, but gives a good effect. Of the minuses, one can name the difficulties with removing this type of shelter in the spring - the thorns can scratch the hands, and the remains of the soil on the tops of the bushes cause increased growth of side shoots.
2. Snow- in a snowy winter, it will reliably protect the plant, however, in the event of a thaw, it can be a dangerous source of excess moisture, which, when cold weather sets in, will freeze and damage the plant.
3. Vegetable tops- used dried and healthy, which is harvested in the process of harvesting vegetables.
4. hay and straw- both materials are easy to use, they are easy to remove in the spring. Of the minuses - such a shelter can attract mice for wintering, which will readily feast on blackberry bushes.
5. Fallen tree leaves- this species is characterized by low labor intensity, but here it is important not to cover with foliage from fruit and berry trees, since pest larvae can be transmitted with it.
6. corn leaves- this material is characterized by rigidity, therefore it can protect the shrub well, it also does not absorb water well. The leaves are dried after harvesting the corn or used naturally dried, laid in a thick layer. Make sure the leaves are healthy and undamaged.
7. Sawdust and shavings- it is not recommended to use due to the fact that they reduce the nitrogen content, acidify the soil, strongly absorb water, which then freezes into an ice block, and contribute to the reproduction of pests.
8. Peat- characterized by a high degree of moisture absorption, so it does not fit well.
9. Coniferous tree branches- a thick layer of this shelter allows the shrub to breathe, retains heat well, repels rodents and insect pests.
10. Sunflower, buckwheat, rice husks- the material is good because it does not absorb water well, but it will take a lot to cover it.

positive side the use of improvised materials is the lack of financial costs, negative - the impossibility of their use over large areas.

Did you know? In England, there is a legend that blackberries can only be harvested until October 11 - on this day the devil spits on them, and people who eat berries harvested after this date become unclean.

Synthetic materials

Blackberries can be covered with synthetic materials purchased in the store:

1. Film- its thick layer will serve good cover in a snowy winter, but can cause problems if a thaw occurs. In this case, a lot of moisture and heat form under it, which will lead to decay. Snowless winters pose a danger, in which case a greenhouse effect occurs, which is created by the sun on a frosty day and forms a high temperature under the film. After sunset, a drop in temperature leads to frostbite. Alternatively, you can put paper under the film or sprinkle it with sawdust on top.
2. Ruberoid, pieces of old linoleum- ease of use of this type of shelter resists fragility during frosts.
3. Felt or synthetic winterizer- this species is suitable only for northern latitudes, where there are snowy and frosty winters, since during a thaw the material can pick up moisture, and the blackberry will rot.
4. Burlap - used as an additional covering material in conjunction with improvised means of shelter.
5. nonwoven fabric(spunbond, agrotex, lutrasil, agrospan) - the advantage of this type of material is good protection from frost and the ability to pass air. It does not create a greenhouse effect, so you can cover it before the start of frost, and remove it long after it ends.
6. Styrofoam- protects well, but expensive and easily gnawed by mice.

Did you know? Styrofoam98% consists of air.

These types of shelter can protect large areas of planted berries, they can be used several times, but they require some financial investment.

How to hide

After graduation preparatory activities the blackberries are pressed as close as possible to the mulched soil, trying not to damage the fragile branches. If it is not possible to bend down the bushes, they are covered with plywood and slate boxes. To film or nonwovens not frozen to the plant, a layer of mulch is poured under them from improvised materials or a frame is built that will not allow materials to come into contact with branches and leaves.

The non-woven material can be black and white, the difference between which is only that White color better reflects the sun's rays and is suitable for snowless winters. It also happens in different densities: a material with a density of 100 g per 1 sq. m can be laid in 1 layer, 50 g per 1 sq. m - in 2 layers. It is often recommended to cover with 2 layers of a thinner version. When choosing the width of the material, you should stop at 1.6 m.

Important! No need to try to wrap the shrub in a covering material, like in a diaper, the warmed soil gives off heat, not the flooring, so try to cover more territory around the plant.

The edges of the flooring must be pressed to the ground with something heavy (stones or sprinkled with earth) so that it does not blow away with the wind. It is recommended to throw a layer of snow on top of the flooring in order to retain more heat.

Do I need to cover frost-resistant varieties of blackberries

Frost resistance characterizes the ability of blackberries to withstand low temperatures. However, the fact that the plant survives does not mean that it will not suffer - in winters with little snow, the buds and shoot tips may freeze, as a result, the harvest will not be rich. Of the frost-resistant varieties, the most famous is Agave, which can withstand more than -20 ° C. But young branches of this variety can freeze in such a frost. Although new shoots will grow in their place in the spring, they will not produce a crop this year. Based on the above, frost-resistant varieties blackberries also need shelter, otherwise a weakened plant will not please you with berries.

So if you want to get good harvest blackberries, bushes for the winter must be covered, but this must be done correctly. For small plantings, improvised materials are suitable, for larger ones - synthetic (white agrofibre). However, do not cover too early, otherwise the plant will rot and die. Follow our recommendations, make the right shelter for blackberries for the winter, and you will definitely feel the difference.

Video: blackberries - how to properly cover

Your house and cottage in the fall need special care, since winter is just around the corner, and there are fewer and fewer warm days suitable for work. On the land plot all living things seem to freeze in anticipation of unusual metamorphoses. By slowing down life processes, plants are struggling to prepare for the most unfavorable time of the year.

However, often plants do not always manage to fully enter the hibernation season and successfully transfer it without human help. Everything appears on our sites every year more species and varieties native to warmer climates. Often these are already well acclimatized hybrids, able to more or less easily adapt to harsh weather conditions, although when compared with local flora, these plants are noticeably inferior in terms of endurance.

Particularly at risk of death in winter period trees and shrubs, the ground part of which during hibernation is not covered with protective insulating materials and snow. Blown from all sides by a frosty wind, the branches can get local frostbite, the worst of which is freezing and death of the buds.
Touching upon the topic of winter hardiness of plants, it is important to understand that the endurance of varieties to cold depends on many cumulative factors:

Cultivated plants imported from warm climatic zones, as well as local ones crossed with heat-loving varieties, rarely tolerate a drop in temperature starting from -25 ° C;

Long stay in low temperatures leads to the complete death of both the ground and underground parts of heat-loving plants;

The garden in autumn is characterized by a disastrous alternation high humidity at a temperature of about zero with a sharp freezing and thawing of the soil;

Late cold summers with prolonged rainy weather lead to a prolongation of the vegetation process, when the seeds begin to ripen in the pre-autumn period, without having time to reduce growth rates by winter;

Incorrect agricultural practices, excessive or late application of top dressings rich in nitrogen can significantly prolong all vegetative processes, bypassing quality preparation for seasonal hibernation.

Covering materials

Covering materials can be used for any plant in your area, both for decorative flower species and for food.

Consider the main materials:

1. The spruce branches of coniferous species, like the needles themselves, have excellent snow-retaining and heat-insulating properties.

2. Lutrasil is an artificial canvas of various densities used as a conventional covering material on top of the soil, as well as when fitting three-dimensional structures and frames (for example, hammered together pyramids for conifers).

3. Ready-made mulch mixture from ecological natural ingredients, which can be easily purchased at any flower shop it is mainly used to shelter varieties that are sensitive to even the slightest temperature fluctuations (often as a shelter for roses and other capricious crops).

4. Humus, fresh and rotted foliage of tree species, peat serve as a convenient material for mulching and hilling a sheltered piece of land.

5. Kraft paper, due to its density and high insulating ability, provides high-quality protection against frost and temperature extremes.

All of these materials are capable of showing excellent frost protection, but it is worth considering separately the strengths and weak sides shelters. So, with all the ease of use of lutrasil, one should not forget about its ability to insulate without producing sufficient air circulation. The heat accumulated inside can cause plants to overheat during even short winter thaws.

Kraft paper pleasantly pleases with its imperviousness to light, as a result of which your pets (in particular conifers) will not face any sunburn.

Vegetable mulch taken from natural environment may be infected dangerous pests and diseases, the manifestation of which will be noticeable already in the next growing season. Many gardeners and summer residents, when preparing a garden for the winter, prefer to buy ready-made mulch, which can also act as a pleasant decorating material.

rose cover

When preparing the site for winter, gardeners are especially anxious about the quality shelter of roses. To date, there are a huge variety of their forms, for each of which there are certain rules for preparing for hibernation.

For example, climbing roses they finish fertilizing with nitrogen-containing dressings already in late July - early August. In October, unripened shoots are removed from roses to the point of ripening. Taking the moment, you can try to form a bush, cutting off old useless unproductive lashes.

It is advisable to cut off the foliage from the bushes or cut them off with disinfected scissors - here, as you like. It is advisable to bend the whips themselves and fix them as close to the ground as possible so that they do not touch it.

Standard roses are also bent to the ground, trying not to damage the root neck, it is best to do this anatomically along its visible bend. All other roses do not have to be bent down and freed from leaves when pruning, the main thing is that the remaining ground part allows you to apply a covering material on top, especially if it is a box or fabric.

It is important to remember that the preparation of roses must be carried out at a positive or near zero temperature, since sheltering roses in winter is more than a futile exercise - the flowers will die anyway. If you are accustomed to spud and cover roses with a cloth, you have probably already encountered the problem of rotting and overgrowing of the bush. dangerous fungus. As a rule, this occurs due to a violation of air microcirculation inside the shelter, accumulation and heating of moisture during thaws.

To prevent such unpleasant consequences it is important to ensure that there is a small gap between the ground and the fabric for breathing. Special purchased shelters of the “fur coat” type based on peat and sphagnum moss will help absorb excess moisture. The latter, in turn, apart from thermal insulation properties has a good bactericidal and antifungal effect.

The finished mixture is usually simply poured over the hilled bushes with a layer of several centimeters and that's it - a reliable shelter for roses for the winter is ready! Such a mixture guarantees effective preservation during wintering of almost all plants on the site, except, perhaps, trees and tall shrubs, whose branches can still suffer from a frosty wind.

Shelter of chrysanthemums

Ordinary chrysanthemums, cultivated by flower growers for many years, tolerate the winter heat well. Modern Korean varieties do not differ in impressive bud sizes, but they are adapted to our weather in the best possible way.

After the chrysanthemums bloom, they must be cut and bent to the ground like roses. From above, the bushes can be covered with mulch from foliage or humus, additionally covered with any waterproof material. As soon as the soil begins to thaw, you can lift the fabric (film), completely removing it only with the complete thawing of the earth.

Beautifully flowering Indian chrysanthemums amaze with the size of their buds and intolerance to even the slightest temperature drops. These flowers are best not left outdoors for the winter. For their safety, it is worth digging the underground part and placing it in a cellar or other poorly heated dark room before the arrival of spring.

The ground part is cut to 10-12 cm in height. For laying it is desirable to use wooden "breathing" boxes. Chrysanthemums laid with layering upwards are sprinkled with a substrate consisting of peat, sphagnum and coarse-grained river sand optional. Chrysanthemums should never be watered, as old roots may begin to take root, especially in the presence of at least a weak light source.

Clematis shelter

Clematis beds also need special care in autumn. Depending on the variety, clematis are cut to a height of 30 cm to 1.5 m. All unnecessary vines are cut out, the rest are twisted like a ring or spiral and laid closer to the ground. As thermal insulation material any natural material can act, which is sprinkled on plants with a layer of 20–40 cm.

The substrate must be well dried and porous. On top of the clematis, they are additionally covered (if necessary) with a box or frame, as well as any waterproof material. between earth and top layer shelter should remain a small gap.

This method of protection requires additional actions on the part of the grower. In winter, it is necessary to tread paths between plants so that mice cannot penetrate the gaps. In the spring, with the arrival of the first thaws, it is important to remove the waterproof material (usually a film) in time to prevent clematis from rotting.

bulbous shelter

In order for the garden and vegetable garden not to experience much stress in winter, it is necessary to stock up on mulching natural material in advance, because, as practice shows, there is not much of it - there is always something that could still be covered. This is especially relevant for bulbous plants, since their underground part contains a lot of water and is subject to rapid freezing.

Perhaps the most unpretentious among the bulbous are tulips, some small-bulbous, kolchikum, less often daffodils. Colchicum preferably planted in open ground no later than mid-August, so he will not require additional shelter, having managed to take root well. Landing in the 20th of October will require reliable shelter.

daffodils and some small bulbs are recommended to be planted no later than mid-September. tulips can wait until mid-October. If the planting dates are noticeably shifted forward, warming for the winter is a must. daffodils and lilies generally do not tolerate severe frosts, so it is advisable to play it safe and always cover these flowers.

So that the bulbs in the soil do not get wet, you can cover them with a film until the rain stops completely. Before the last preparations, dry mulch should be applied under the film with a layer of no more than 3-5 cm. You can leave a gap for breathing.

With the advent of autumn, it is usually shelters for roses that are of particular concern, and the importance of warming other plants in some cases is reduced to almost nothing. But do not forget that in our gardens and orchards there are more people from warm countries, demanding special attention. And not to be upset next spring the presence of flowers that have not risen, it is worth considering now how exactly you will insulate the plants for winter.

How to cover plants for the winter video

Successes in floriculture and good luck!