Soldering the wire and loop to the board. The most reliable wire connection without a soldering iron How to solder contacts without a soldering iron

The issue of soldering polypropylene pipes today is acute for every owner of his apartment, because everyone, without exception, wants high-quality fastening of pipes, since this directly depends on:

service life of the water supply or heating system,
the need for repair costs.

Therefore, many are interested in how to properly solder pipes in order to avoid troubles in the future.

For soldering polypropylene pipes, of course, a special soldering iron is required. But what if there is no such tool in the house? The answer is simple: use the materials and tools at hand. For example, a gas burner.

Undoubtedly, every home should have a gas burner. But if it is not there, when choosing this tool, you should take into account its main parameters:

gas used;
connection of the cylinder.

This brazing method is suitable not only for small diameter pipes, but also for large diameter pipes.

Using a gas burner, you can independently repair or install the heating system in a short period of time.

Soldering requires:

accuracy,
care,
striving for quality,
preparation for the main work.

Polypropylene pipe: soldering instructions

Let's consider step by step how to properly solder pipes:

Step 1. We select pipes of a suitable diameter. Please note: newly purchased pipes must match the old ones in diameter. This will help avoid connection problems.

Step 2. Having measured, cut off the required pipe section. Do not forget to add an additional 25 millimeters, which will subsequently remain fused into the fitting.

Step 3. Heat up the pipe and fitting with a burner. This must be done at the same time.

Step 4. After that, the parts need to be connected and held a little, waiting for them to cool.

Please note: Before installing the pipes, it is necessary to draw up a detailed diagram according to which they will be connected. It should be noted the installation locations of the slewing angles, tees and cranes.

It is recommended to purchase fittings and pipes from the predominantly one manufacturer. This is an important point, since each manufacturer has its own technology for manufacturing these elements. This means that the melting temperature of the parts may differ, which is not suitable for the solidity of the structure.
Before the main work, the parts must be cleaned and degreased, which will avoid disturbing the quality of the connection.
Practice first on the pipe sections so that you know how much effort is required to get the expected result. Please note: the pipe inserted into the fitting must not be turned in any way, this will break the strength of the connection, since the surfaces of the parts will gather in waves.
If you choose quality, don't skimp! Good products last longer than you save in the future.
If the room temperature is below + 5 ° C, there is no need to take risks and start work, because its efficiency is significantly reduced. The joints in this case will be fragile, and the connecting parts will require additional heating. And this is fraught with unnecessary melting and deformation of elements.

Soldering wires: how to solder if you don't have a soldering iron?

Surely many have come across the fact that you need to fasten two wires, but there is no soldering iron at hand. It remains to rely on the ingenuity of contemporaries who offer easy soldering methods that everyone can master.

The following materials are offered on the modern market:

Soldering tape.

Soldering without a soldering iron using paste

Solder paste is a mechanical mixture of flux, solder powder and lubricant, that is, a binder.

Manufacturers of solder pastes practice their manufacture on the basis of silver, which makes it possible to use this mixture for soldering various types of nickel, steel, as well as copper alloys.

Requirements for pastes

Solder paste should:

exfoliate very quickly, but not oxidize;
be viscous (which is very important!) and maintain deformation;
have adhesive properties;
washed off in common solvents;
do not drain beyond the boundaries of the applied layer;
do not leave indelible residues after application;
do not affect the technical properties of the board.

Soldering steps

Step 1. The primary task is to prepare the wires. We clean the surface of the wire using a clerical knife or wire cutters.

Step 2. We twist the wires.

Step 3. Carefully smear the place of soldering with soldering paste. It is necessary to apply drops of paste over the entire surface of the wire evenly.

Step 4. Warm up the place of application. To do this, you can use a regular lighter. After warming up, the paste will form a strong seal.

Step 5. We put a heat-shrinkable tube on the wire, which we also process with a flame, so that it is evenly distributed over the surface of the wire.

Please note: This soldering method is primarily suitable for bonding small diameter wires, such as headphone wires.
Soldering with Solder Tape
Solder tape is a material used in electrical wiring installation, repair or replacement, in domestic and field conditions, as well as in the automotive industry.

Let's consider the step-by-step process of soldering by means of a soldering tape:

Step 1. It is necessary to remove the insulation from the wire, that is, to strip it with wire cutters.

Step 2 Twist the wires, and then wrap the twist with soldering tape. After removing the protective film, we apply the side with the flux to the surface of the wire and crimp it.

Step 3. Heat the place of the winding with a match or a lighter until the solder completely spreads over the surface of the wiring.

Step 4. Wait until it cools down, and then remove excess flux.

As you can see, it is not at all necessary to run to buy a soldering iron to solder the wires, you can use the methods described above. This will save both time and money.

Sometimes the question arises of how to solder without a soldering iron, because soldering is the most common way to connect small parts at home. But what to do when you urgently need to connect the wires, and the soldering iron is broken.

A soldering iron is a handy and simple tool. You can combine small products with it at home.

A soldering iron is a simple and handy tool. Probably everyone knows how to combine metals with it. But how to solder without a soldering iron when there is no electricity is a question that should be considered in more detail.

Tinning without a soldering iron

Tinning is the preliminary application of a thin layer of solder to the surface of the parts to be joined. It is made to improve electrical contact and improve the quality of soldering.

Tinning can be done without a soldering iron. To do this, you need to prepare a small metal trough. A metal can lid, for example, from under instant coffee, is best suited for size. Small pieces of POS60 tin-lead solder (even better - pure tin) and rosin are placed in the lid.

If you need to solder the wires, then the insulation is first removed from their ends at a distance of about 20-30 mm. The container with solder and rosin is heated until the solder melts. An electric stove, candle, fire or any open flame can be used as a heater. The exposed end of the wire is immersed in the molten rosin so that the flux covers the entire surface. Then the processed section of the wire is placed in the solder melt for 2-3 seconds. After removing the wire from the melt, with a quick movement of the hand, using a rag, excess solder is removed. A thin, uniform layer of tin should remain on the surface of the wire.

If it is necessary to tin an area of a flat part, then finely planed solder and a small piece of rosin are poured onto its surface. The flame for heating is brought from the bottom of the part, under the soldering area. After melting, the solder is rubbed over the surface with a steel rod. The excess mass is removed with a rag. When tinning a steel part, rosin is not used. The soldering area is carefully treated with soldering acid. The tinning process itself is similar.

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Soldering wires without using a soldering iron

The question of how to solder without a soldering iron for copper wires with a cross section of up to 0.75 mm² is easy to solve. Tinned wire ends are twisted together. The soldering area is heated until the solder layer melts. As a heater, you must use a source of a narrowly directed flame: a candle, a lighter, matches. The solder applied to the surface during the tinning process should be sufficient for.

If you need to solder a wire to the middle of another wire, then wind its end around the junction (2-3 turns) or grab this section, bending the wire 180º. The soldering itself is performed in the same way as connecting the ends of the wires.

When soldering larger wires, the tin mass in the tinned layer may not be sufficient for a reliable connection. In this case, pour finely grated solder on top of the twisted section and heat until it melts and fills the gaps in the twist. So you can solder copper wires with a diameter of up to 2 mm without a soldering iron.

Sometimes it is necessary to solder the wire to a flat surface. For this, the end of the wire and the surface area of the part (body) are pre-tinned. The wire is pressed against the plane of the part, and finely sawed solder is poured onto the soldering section from above. By heating the parts from below, the tin is melted.

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Features of soldering in the gutter

Soldering wires with a diameter of up to 3 mm can be done without a soldering iron using a groove. Such a groove is made of aluminum foil with a thickness of about 0.8 mm. Soldering is done in the following order. At the ends of the wires to be connected, insulation is removed over a length of about 30 mm. Bare ends are twisted together or stacked in parallel.

The foil is cut in the form of a short strip with a width equal to the width of the connection section, and bent in the form of a groove, covering the joined wires. The crushed solder and rosin are evenly poured into the groove. One end of the foil is tightly wrapped around the area to be joined so that the solder does not spill out. When working, pliers with thin noses are used. The area covered with foil is heated by a candle, lighter, etc. before the solder melts. After the mass has hardened, the foil is removed.

If necessary, remove excess solder with an emery cloth or file.

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Soldering utensils or containers

It is often necessary to solder a small hole in a saucepan or bucket. If the hole is no more than 6-7 mm, soldering can be done without a soldering iron. To do this, it is enough to use POS60 solder. The area around the hole must be carefully sanded inside the container so that the hole is tapered (expanding into the container). Then this area is treated with hydrochloric acid or brazing acid. A small thin plate is placed at the bottom of the hole to prevent solder leakage. From the inside of the container, crushed solder and rosin are poured into the hole. The container is placed on a directional fire source. The molten solder seals the hole.

If you need to solder aluminum dishes, then you should prepare a special solder in advance. You can use one of the recipes: tin and zinc in a ratio of 4: 1; tin and bismuth in a ratio of 30: 1 or tin and aluminum in a ratio of 99: 1. Such alloys can only be prepared at high temperatures by melt stirring.

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Soldering using paste

Required tools for a paper clip soldering iron: 1 - autogenous lighter, 2 - metal clip, 3 - flat-nose pliers, 4 - slotted (flat) screwdriver.

You can solder a wire or radio component without a soldering iron using solder paste. Such a pasta is also prepared with your own hands. To obtain the "tinol" paste, 32 ml of concentrated hydrochloric acid is poured into an enamel container and mixed with 12 ml of water. 8.1 g of zinc is added to the liquid, and after its dissolution - 7.8 g of tin. After the end of the chemical reaction, the water is evaporated until a pasty composition is formed. Further operations should be carried out in porcelain dishes. 7.4 g of lead and 14.8 g of tin are added to the paste, as well as 10 ml of glycerin, 7.5 g of dry ammonia, 29.6 g of zinc in the form of dust and 9.4 g of rosin. The added substances are preheated and mixed in the form of a powder.

Soldering a wire or part is done in the following order:

The soldering area is cleaned.
Paste is spread on it with a brush.
The soldering area is heated on the flame of an alcohol lamp or a candle until the paste melts.

When soldering small radio components or a thin copper wire, you can use a slightly different composition: 7.4 g of lead powder, 738 g of zinc dust, 14 ml of glycerin, 4 g of rosin, 14.8 g of tin in powder form. The pasty state is achieved mainly in two ways: by mixing with glycerin or with a solution of 10 g of rosin in 10 ml of diethyl ether.

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Homemade soldering iron

In places where there is no electricity, you can use a homemade analog of a soldering iron. To do this, you need to find a copper rod (wire) with a diameter of 4-5 mm and a length of about 10 cm. One end of the rod is grinded in the form of a screwdriver, and the other is fixed in a wooden handle. This round handle is easy to cut from a tree branch. Heating of such an elementary soldering iron is carried out from an open flame. The soldering process itself is not much different from soldering with an electric soldering iron. It is only necessary to adapt the heat-resistant stand into which the device is installed when heated. Installation should be done quickly - with one movement of the hand. Solder and rosin should be in a flat container. The very soldering of the wire or other parts is carried out in the immediate vicinity of the heating source.

The success of the soldering operation depends on the cleanliness of the tip. Before the first use, the sting must be sharpened, giving it the desired shape, depending on the nature of the work ahead. This operation can be carried out with various tools, but most often a file is used.

The second necessary operation - the tip of the soldering iron must be fornicated, that is, remove the oxide film and cover the surface of the working part with a stable layer of solder. This is done by immersing the tip in rosin at the first heating, after which, immediately wipe the tip on a wooden surface or a special sponge. Then, the tip must be covered with solder by immersing it in the melted (soldering iron) solder.

To connect the wires in this way, you need to perform the following operations:

Free the ends of the wires from insulation if available. This operation is best done with a special tool called a crimper; when stripping with a knife, there is a risk of damage to the wire, which will negatively affect the connection - its durability and the characteristics of the network with such a connection.
Strip the bare ends, while:
- Strip the wire from the varnish coating (if any).
- Place the bare end of the wire on a piece of rosin and heat it with a soldering iron until the flux melts, gently pull the tip out and let it cool.
- Take a drop of solder on the tip of the soldering iron and apply it to the wire, achieving an even coating of the wire with solder.
Repeat operation with the second end of the wire.
Attach the ends to be soldered to each other, collect a drop of solder on the tip of the soldering iron and apply it to the junction, achieving a uniform monolithic layer.
In some cases, it is better and more reliable to twist the wires to be connected, which will increase the strength of the soldered joint.

How to solder wires

To earphone and plug

Remove the outer sheath from the cable, strip the ends of the wires. Remove the varnish mechanically with a knife. Tinker the ends and solder them to the channels, respectively. The left channel is marked with a red lash, the right one - green. If there is a common channel, its wire is usually used without insulation.

To the board

When performing this operation, the preparation of the end of the wire for soldering is the same as in the examples described above. The peculiarity of this operation is that it is impossible to overheat the conductor on the board, it may burn out.

Therefore, a heat sink must be installed near the soldering point. As such, tweezers can be used, with which you can hold the soldered end with an emphasis on the conductor on the board. The soldering point should be immobilized until the solder solidifies completely.

To LED strip

A very important operation- cleaning contacts on. They are covered with silicone, and the slightest residue on the tape can lead to irreparable consequences. Strip the contacts on the wires shortly and irradiate them.

Separate the wires between themselves, cutting the insulation by about 1.5-2 cm. Put a heat-shrinkable tube on the cable that matches the size of the LED strip. Put on the cut ends of the tubes of a smaller diameter.

Solder very quickly, for about 1 second, so as not to melt the silicone body of the LED strip. Use a lighter to seat the smaller tubes, slide the large tube onto the LED strip and heat it down. The top heat-shrinkable tubing must be transparent.

To the dynamics

The peculiarity of this operation is that the speaker leads are very thin and operate under constant vibration. In addition, they are glued to the membrane. Before soldering, you need to carefully separate the wire, strip the end, and irradiate. Pick up a similar wire and solder it to the broken end. Solder the other end to the speaker terminal, leaving a small loop. Glue the finished conductor to the membrane with Supermoment glue.

Required materials and tools

The main tool for soldering is a soldering iron.

There are many varieties of them and they are used depending on the nature of the connection performed by soldering:

The most common type of this tool, in which the rod is heated by a nichrome heating element. As a rule, these devices are equipped with thermostats to prevent overheating of the soldering iron and burnout of the heating coil.

A time-tested thermocouple is usually used as a thermostat. Structurally, these soldering irons are made in various versions. The simplest ones have a nichrome spiral, which is wound on a dielectric material and, when heated, transfers heat to the core. These products usually use a copper bar as the core because copper has a high thermal conductivity.

Ceramic

As a working body, a tip made of this material is used, to which contacts are connected. When current is passed, the tip heats up to the desired temperature. Ceramic heating elements are considered the most advanced and durable, provided they are used correctly. In such devices, a wide range of temperature and power adjustment of the working body is possible.

Induction

The tip is heated through an induction coil. When a current passes through it, eddy currents are induced on the surface of the tip, rapidly heating the working body.

When the core heats up to a certain temperature, its ferromagnetic coating ceases to induce eddy currents and it cools down until it reaches the induction temperature of the stray currents. Thus, thermoregulation is carried out smoothly and the instrument maintains an almost constant temperature.

Pulse soldering irons

They form a separate category of such instruments. They are characterized by the fact that the heating element in them is included in the electrical circuit and, when current passes through it, it instantly heats up. The power supply circuit provides a high-frequency transformer designed to lower the voltage, and a frequency converter that increases the frequency to 20-40 kHz.

Thus, the working tip is heated for a few seconds while the start button is held down. When released, the soldering iron turns off. Modern products of this type allow you to solder large enough parts, and not only work with electronic circuits.

Gas

They are used as stand-alone devices. Work is carried out in a jet of flame from a gas burner. Refueling is made from an ordinary can of gas for lighters.

Rechargeable

Also belong to the class of stand-alone devices. Their power is usually about 15 watts, they are used for small repairs of electronic devices.

Soldering stations

There are two types of these devices on sale:

Hot air- the soldering zone is heated by a stream of hot air with a temperature of up to 300 ° C, focused by the soldering iron nozzle. The pressure is created either by the impeller in the soldering iron body (turbine), or by the compressor (compressor).
Infrared- in them, heating is carried out by a stream of infrared radiation.

Soldering stations are used in cases where soldering irons with their copper or ceramic tip are inconvenient or generally unsuitable for work. This is the case when working with modern miniature boards that use SMD mounting.

Solders

It is the material that connects two parts during the soldering process.

Depending on the chemical composition, two types are distinguished:

Fusible with a melting point of up to 400 o C.
Refractory, in which this figure is higher than 400 o C.

The choice of the right solder depends on the characteristics of the materials to be soldered, the conditions and purpose of the soldering, and many other parameters. They are produced in the form of wire, tubes, plates, pastes and in other forms.

Low-melting metals and their alloys are used as solders:

tin;
lead;
cadmium;
antimony;
bismuth;
zinc;
copper;

Alloys of these metals with fluxes are actively used, which allow combining two main operations: tinning and soldering itself.

When heated during soldering, oxidation of the surface of the parts to be joined is inevitable, which prevents the solder from spreading over the surface of the conductors and reduces the adhesion of the solders to the metal. For surface protection, fluxes are used. The flux melt destroys the oxide film, improving solderability.

Conditional division of fluxes - active and passive. Active fluxes are capable of destroying the soldering point during operation. Therefore, the adhesions must be thoroughly rinsed with water. They are not used for work with electronic assemblies.

The following are used as fluxes:

Rosin- processed resin of coniferous trees, quality indicator - light tone.
Alcohol rosin flux- a mixture of rosin (10-60%) with alcohol, is actively used in radio installation.
LTI fluxes- a mixture of rosin and alcohol with the addition of triethanolamine, used for soldering iron, copper, brass and other metals.
Soldering paste from a mixture of flux, tin and lead with the addition of up to 2% silver, is used in radio installation.
Soldering fat and soldering acid- are used for soldering iron parts, actively removing the oxide layer from the surface.
Bura- high-temperature flux (melting point about 900 ° C) for brazing parts made of iron, cast iron, copper, brass and other materials.

The list is far from complete, there are a lot of varieties of fluxes.

Price

Name	Image	Appointment	Price, rub)
Mounting binocular		Eye protection when soldering, increasing the visibility of the working field when installing small parts	350
Soldering set (6 pieces) ZD-151 REXANT		Installation of parts, cleaning of contacts and soldering points and other auxiliary operations	500
Soldering iron stand "Cast iron square" ZD-10A REXANT		Storing the soldering iron when heated and between operations	550
Anti-static bracelet ZD-152REXANT		Grounding of static charges	300
Holder "third hand" with lens and stand for soldering iron ZD-10A REXANT		Retention of parts during work, backlight. Applied in electronic installation and watchmaking	1200
Desoldering pump for solder ZD-108 REXANT		Removal of excess solder or flux during assembly / disassembly in electronics	350
Sponge for cleaning the soldering iron tip 40x70 mm ZD-929 REXANT		Cleaning the soldering iron tip from the remains of solder and flux	80

The table shows examples of the execution of devices, in fact, these products are produced in an uncountable number of varieties and by many manufacturers.

How to solder a wire without a soldering iron?

There are several ways to connect wires without soldering:

Thoroughly clean and degrease ends of the wires to be connected, twist. Apply a few drops of Kontaktol glue to it, let it dry. Insulate the junction.
Roll up After preparing the connection points, connect the wires to a powerful power supply unit (5-6 volts, 4-5 amperes). Connect a massive conductor to the second contact, for example, a nail. Touch the twist with a nail. An arc is formed that reliably welds the wires. Insulate the junction.

If you need to make a responsible connection of wires, and the soldering iron is not at hand, or there is no way to power it, then this little trick will come in handy. After all, chance does not choose when to be taken by surprise and you need to be ready for anything. An ordinary gas lighter will be used as a soldering iron, so the twist will still be soldered and the strength of the wire will be exactly the same as that of a solid piece.

It will take

Gas lighter.
Heat-shrink tubing. You can buy in the store, but I ordered in China -
Tubular solder with rosin. If you are not familiar, this is a thin tube-shaped solder wound on a spool. And in the center of the tube there is a strip with rosin or active flux, ordered -.

We connect the wires securely without a soldering iron

We take a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing approximately 50 mm long and put it on one of the two wires.

Then, using a stripper, wire cutters or a knife, we strip 30 mm of insulation from each wiring.

We twist the disheveled veins together.

Now we wind the bare veins on top of each other. We put a cross and wind half of the core on the right, and the right on the left.

It should look like this.

Soldering without a soldering iron

We take solder, heat the twist with a lighter. Just do not bring it straight into an open flame, but barely touching it - there is nothing to excess temperature.

We touch the twist with the solder, and since it is hot enough, the solder melts and spreads well over it.

As a result, the connection will be no worse than soldered with a soldering iron.

I will repeat from a different angle. We heat it up with a lighter and bring the solder.

It spreads well over copper conductors.

The result is excellent.

We move the heat shrinkage worn earlier to the middle of the welded twist.

And we warm it up with the flame of a lighter.

The result is a very reliable, solid connection between the two wires.

This method will help you out when you don't have a soldering iron at hand.

Tip # 1: if the wire is not of the first freshness, then it must first be lubricated with solder paste or liquid flux.
Tip # 2: If the wire is thick, flux tubular solder can be wound in a random manner right on top of the twist. Then heat it up with a lighter and everything will spread by itself.

I am personally very pleased with the quality of the Chinese solder. Compared to our POS 61, this is earth and sky. But, as you know, there are no comrades for taste and color. All good luck!

Often you have to deal with a situation when, due to the lack of a working soldering iron at hand, you urgently need to connect the wires without soldering in its direct sense, using some special techniques. At first glance, this approach seems impossible, since soldering is the only acceptable way to ensure a reliable connection between two conductors.

But if you show a little ingenuity and use the available auxiliary tools, it turns out that it is quite possible to solder wires at home without using a soldering iron.

Learning to solder a variety of things and details without a soldering iron should not be considered something completely impossible. To do this, it is enough to master the method of preparing liquid solder, which is used for tinning and soldering.

The tinning procedure refers to the application of a thin layer of tin alloy to the surface of the terminals of radio components or wire ends to be soldered. Its main purpose is to improve the electrical contact at the junction and to facilitate the subsequent soldering process.

Solder preparation and heating

Tinning of wires can be organized without a soldering iron at all, which is quite possible with the following attributes:

you will need a small metal trough (like a lid from glass jars or instant coffee);
it is necessary to prepare strictly dosed (finely planed) pieces of low-temperature POS-60 solder and a little rosin crushed into powder;
Another condition for the possibility of tinning without a soldering iron is the presence of a hotbed for heating active compounds (any source of open fire is suitable for this, including a candle, dry alcohol or a small fire).

Heat sources

For safety reasons, the last method of heating the tinning zone can only be used outside a residential building (in a garden plot or in a vegetable garden, for example).

In urban conditions, some craftsmen manage to melt a solder mixture carefully prepared for tinning (rosin powder plus solder chips) with a steel nail well-heated on gas.

Tinning process

After thoroughly warming up the mixture of solder and rosin, the finished composition begins to boil. The section of the wire that needs tinning should be pulled through this melt. If it is necessary to tin only the bare ends of a flexible conductor or the legs of radio components (resistors or capacitors), it is enough to dip them into a liquid boiling mass for 2-3 seconds. After removing excess molten compound, an even layer of solder should remain at the ends of the wires.

When working with wires, a section of insulation with a length of approximately 20-30 mm must be removed from their edges.

In the case when it is required to tin the joints between copper sheet blanks, proceed as follows. First, these parts are tightly pressed against one another by means of clamps, after which the heated liquid mixture is poured directly into the docking area. After its complete cooling, the clamps can be loosened and two blanks ready for soldering can be obtained.

Another method of tinning flat parts involves the use of finely planed solder and a small solid piece of rosin for this purpose. In this case, the heating source (more precisely, the flame of an open fire) is brought to the bottom of the part located directly under the soldering area. After the solder is completely melted, it is rubbed together with rosin on the treated surface with a steel bar.

At the end of this procedure, the excess composition is removed with a clean soft cloth. When tinning the surfaces of steel billets, rosin is no longer required. In this case, instead of it, soldering acid is used, poured into finely planed solder. The process of tinning this metal without using a soldering iron is completely similar to the procedure already described.

Homemade soldering iron

Instead of an electric tool, you can make a soldering iron from copper wire and a wooden handle, which heats up in an open flame. The wire will act as a tip. With its help, molten solder is applied to the twist of two wires or to the area to which the conductor must be soldered.

For these purposes, a regular nail is also used, clamped with pliers. It is only important to warm it up well with a burner flame. In this case, the preparatory procedures (processing of the wire with flux and tinning) proceed as in conventional soldering. To solder the wires conveniently, the sting test can be wound around the lighter, leaving one end free. When you turn on the lighter, its flame will immediately heat up.

Tableware repair

In order to solder certain products without a soldering iron, their features should be taken into account. Although dishes are rarely sealed today, knowledge of the basics of technology will never be superfluous. Soldering wires without a soldering iron is even easier.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to fix household utensils (pot or bucket) in which a small hole has formed. It can be removed without a soldering iron only if the size of the damage does not exceed 6-7 mm. In this situation, you can also use a POS-60 type solder, which is melted specifically for this.

Before the start of soldering, the place around the hole is carefully processed with an emery cloth, and the hole itself is cone-shaped, expanding inward. Further, this entire area is treated with soldering acid, after which the hole is closed from the outside with a thin plate made of a fairly rigid and refractory material. Such a barrier is only needed to keep the solder in the soldering zone, so it can be replaced with any heat-resistant sheet partition.

Finely ground solder together with rosin powder is poured inside the cone, and then this place is located above a source of open fire. After the mixture has melted, the liquid solder fills the hole and then cools down.

In order to solder aluminum dishes, you will need to prepare a special solder that includes zinc, bismuth or aluminum components. It can only be obtained by mixing them at very high temperatures.

Soldering paste

It is possible to solder two copper wires to one another using a specially prepared compound called solder paste and containing the following components:

lead powder;
zinc dust;
glycerin and rosin;
tin, ground to a crushed look.

The pasty state of such a mixture is achieved due to the presence of liquid components in it. You can apply the paste without a stick, which greatly simplifies soldering.

Using foil

For soldering thin copper wires, you can also use the "groove" method, which requires foil no more than 1 mm thick. In the process of such soldering, the bare ends of the wires are first twisted and then laid on a flat surface.

After that, a strip of aluminum foil is taken, the length corresponding to the size of the area to be joined, and rolled up in the form of a groove (tube). In this case, one of its ends is tightly wrapped around the wire and clamped with pliers.

Then, in small portions, a carefully ground dry mixture of solder and rosin is poured into the resulting groove, after which it is heated over an open fire. When melted, the liquid composition first fills all free cavities, and then gradually cools down. Once the soldering process is completed using this method, all that remains is to remove the foil.