Roses park frost-resistant for Siberia. Roses in the Urals, planting and care

Rose is a very beautiful, but rather picky flower. However, breeding work does not stand still, and even in the harsh Siberian climate, you can successfully grow beautiful floribunda roses.

It is not easy for a delicate and capricious rose to survive in the harsh climatic conditions of Siberia. And even varieties that are zoned and adapted to the cold need constant and considerable care.

Features of the climate of Siberia

In Siberia, spring comes late, summer does not last long, and severe winter drags on for almost half a year. Seedlings that were grown in local Siberian nurseries are best adapted to such conditions. Also, some varietal roses grafted onto winter-hardy rose hips are characterized by good survival.

Floribunda roses - what are they?

Floribunda is a hybrid of polyanthus and hybrid tea roses, which combines best performance these plants. His main distinctive features- Abundant and almost continuous flowering, good winter hardiness and resistance to diseases and pests.

But still, with the onset of cold weather (usually in October), floribunda roses need to be covered. It is best to use the air-dry method of shelter. It should also be remembered that in the spring it is important to remove the covering material in time: otherwise the plants will dry out.

So, what varieties of floribunda roses can be successfully grown in Siberia?

Arthur Bell

This winter-hardy rose is very popular in Europe and the UK, but it also feels quite comfortable in the Siberian expanses. Upright bushes of this variety with a height of about 80 cm look perfect in group plantings. Semi-double buds in the shape of a bowl with pale yellow petals and pink edging are collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces. The flowers exude a subtle fruity aroma.

The only drawback of this rose is the rapid fading of the inflorescences: in sunny weather, the beautiful yellow color becomes pale cream.

deja vu

This variety of Siberian selection has good winter hardiness. Upright bushes with several branches are abundantly strewn with double flowers that resemble a cone in shape. The petals have a bright yellow color, along the edges - a wavy edging of coral color.

Like most varieties from the floribunda group, Deja Vu roses are great for group plantings. And also this plant is suitable for cutting: the flowers do not fade for 14 days. Therefore, this rose is in high esteem among florists.

Jack Frost

The bushes of this spectacular rose, reaching a height of 70 cm, are strewn with double buds of white color with a barely noticeable greenish tint. Flowers (up to 9 cm in diameter) are shaped like a glass and are collected in small inflorescences.

Sunsprite, or Freesia

Since 1970, this rose has been deservedly considered the best representative floribunda groups. It is not only stunningly beautiful, does not fade in the sun, but also tolerates frost well (-30 ° C with light shelter), can grow on poor soils and is resistant to various diseases.

Dense bushes of this rose reach a height of 70 cm, their leaves are leathery, glossy. Golden-colored double flowers resemble a bowl in shape, collected in inflorescences of 3-8 pieces.

The disadvantage of the Sunsprite rose is that its flowers fall off quickly. But flowering comes again, so you can have time to enjoy the attractive and very fragrant buds.

Evelyn Fison or Irish Wonder

The bush of this rose is branched, rather sprawling and prickly, grows up to 80 cm in height. Its leaves are leathery, greenish-shiny. Cupped buds with many double petals of bright red and burgundy at the edges are simply mesmerizing. The flowers do not fade in the sun and are not injured by heavy rains.

Rose Evelyn Fison grows well both in the lit area and in partial shade, the most suitable soil for her is with neutral acidity.

Plant these attractive roses in your garden - and necessary care they will delight you with stormy and fragrant flowering every summer, even despite the harsh Siberian climate.

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floribunda roses

Roses of this species, depending on the variety, can reach a height of 30 to 100 cm. At the top of each shoot, a whole bouquet of flowers of bright color is formed. They can be terry or simple, goblet or cupped. Flowers with a diameter of 4 to 10 cm bloom in mid-summer. Their advantage is that they bloom not in one wave, but throughout the summer, forming more and more flowers that adorn the garden until autumn.

Depending on preferences, floribunda roses can be grown as a shrub, stem or pot plant. You can decorate them with a garden plot, a loggia, a gazebo or an apartment. They stand well in the cut and are often used to make bouquets.


	The flowers of this variety of roses are white to cream, medium size, densely double (up to 50 petals), with a high center, in inflorescences. The bud is pointed. It has a pronounced aroma. The bush is medium, with straight shoots. Rose blooms are profuse. The variety is suitable for winter forcing.


	This winter-hardy, cheerful floribunda has a rich fruity aroma. The disadvantage is the burnout of flowers: at first they are wonderfully bright yellow color but quickly become lemony and creamy. The flowers are semi-double, with crimson stamens. They appear in medium-sized racemes in a bush with thick, hard, prickly shoots. The flowers are rain resistant. Forms a tall bush in dense leathery foliage, flowers are large, resistant to bad weather. Resistance to black spot and powdery mildew is good. Flowering begins in early summer and continues until autumn.


	Tight, cone-shaped, with a slightly elongated shape, the bud of this variety of roses has about 30 wavy petals. The color is pinkish-orange with a yellow overflow and red edging. The flower is terry, grows up to 9-12 cm in diameter. The branchy bush has straight shoots and a medium size. The height is about a meter, and the width is within 60 cm. The buds appear 2-6 pieces per shoot. The stems are covered with medium-sized leaves. The aroma is light, pleasant. The variety is well suited for landscaping personal plots. Winter hardiness is high, but it is advisable to cover the bush for the winter. Above average disease resistance, but additional processing would be a big plus. Rosa Deja Vu loves sunlight very much.


	This variety of rose is one of the most unpretentious. The bright yellow petals of this rose have a uniform color of the purest yellow and remain bright throughout the entire flowering period, from June to September, with virtually no fading. Buds appear singly or in racemes, 4-7 flowers each. The foliage is shiny, has a rich dark green color. The rose has a strong stem that can withstand strong winds well and does not bend even in heavy downpours.


	The bush of this rose is branched, rather sprawling and prickly, grows up to 80 cm in height. Its leaves are leathery, greenish-shiny. Cupped buds with many double petals of bright red and burgundy at the edges are simply mesmerizing. The flowers do not fade in the sun and are not injured by heavy rains. Rose Evelyn Fison grows well both in the lighted area and in partial shade. The most suitable soil for it is with neutral acidity. Plant these attractive roses in your garden and, with the right care, they will delight you with stormy and fragrant blooms every summer, regardless of the harsh Ural climate.


	A variety with flowers of stunning beauty: the petals at the base are painted in a delicate cream color, which gradually turns into crimson-pink tones towards the edges. The buds have a rich crimson color. Flowers bloom slowly, as if giving the opportunity to admire their perfection. Flower size 7-8 cm. Re-blooming variety. The plant is low, about 80 cm, but bushy, with dark green glossy foliage. Weak resistance to rain and fungal diseases. This rose was bred as a cut rose, so the flowers last a long time in bouquets. The variety is suitable for creating hedges.


	Dazzling, cheerful, unusually pretty rose. In heat and cold, in rain and drought, she is always neat, impeccably fresh and friendly. The flowers are medium in size (6-7 cm in diameter), semi-double, with light silky wavy petals of golden yellow (like a buttercup) shades, hiding fluffy amber stamens in the depths. The aroma is delicate, fruity. Blooms all summer until late autumn. The height and diameter of the bush is 70-80 cm.


	One of the most popular and recognized varieties among rose lovers. Charming blonde with warm white satin petals. As it matures, the flower may acquire a slightly pinkish tint. Blooms continuously all season! Semi-double flowers 6-7 cm in size are collected in large inflorescences. The aroma is weak, hardly noticeable. Bushes are branched, fast-growing, 1-1.5 m high, with large glossy light foliage. Plants are resistant to any vagaries of the weather, are slightly affected by fungal diseases. Winter hardiness is very high.


	A rose of incomparable beauty. Turned, as if created from expensive porcelain, flowers with white petals and a bright crimson contrasting border. The stronger the flower blooms, the wider the border on the petals and the more cherry shades in it. Flowers 9-10 cm in diameter, double, with a barely perceptible aroma, retain their shape for a very long time. Remontant flowering, twice a season. Bushes about 80 cm high. Sufficiently resistant to heat, rain and fungal diseases. They hibernate without shelter down to -25°C. They look equally good in group plantings, in flower beds or as a tapeworm.


	Charming, delicate and sophisticated beauty-rose, captivating with warm coral-pink hues. The flowers are large (8-10 cm), moderately double, elegant goblet-shaped, turning into a cup-shaped in full dissolution. The petals are silky wavy, golden yellow at the base, saturated bright crimson along the edge, which provides the effect of an unfading radiance. Blooms for a long time, looks flawless in any weather. Height 60-80 cm.


	The bush is well thickened, reaches a height of 80-165 cm, a width of 60 cm. The flowers are medium-sized, semi-double, 5-6 cm in diameter, contain about 20 petals and are evenly scattered over the bush. The shape of the flowers changes during flowering from a conical bud to a flat cup. Rhapsody in Blue surprises with a combination of purple-purple petals with a white open center and golden yellow stamens. Roses are collected in brushes, consisting of 3 - 7 buds. Depending on external conditions (weather, landing site, lighting), the petals may be purple or purple-blue. When blooming, the flowers have a gray-blue tint. Flowering is plentiful, begins in June. It consists of two long waves with a break of about a month. Roses are very fragrant, with a slight smell of cloves and spices. This variety is suitable for growing in central Russia, provided it is sheltered for the winter and planted in a place protected from cold winds. Resistant to powdery mildew.


	A magnificent low rose suitable for any situation - part floribunda, part miniature rose, part scrub or ground cover rose - and great for planting in a small garden or large masses in the landscape. Barely opened, especially in cold weather, the flowers have a pink hue in the center. Later they become pure radiant white. They appear in huge numbers in racemes of 2-15, so that the whole bush is covered with flowers. The petals shed well before they wither and turn brown, so the bush always looks fresh and tidy. A bush of good shape, dense, sometimes more in width than in height, with small foliage. The variety is very disease resistant, apart from some exposure to rust in infected areas. It blooms very profusely and almost continuously until late autumn, winters well under light cover.


	Very floriferous floribunda with large double flowers on a compact bush. Flowers pale apricot, fading to pink, nostalgic form, in racemes. The foliage is dark green, dense, sweet aroma. Flowers can behave differently depending on the climate in which they grow. If the rosette gets everything it needs, then it will develop rapidly and bloom profusely until late autumn. Medium resistance to powdery mildew and strong resistance to black spot.


	A disease resistant rose from the undersized red floribunda category. Attracts attention due to excellent disease resistance and abundant flowering. The flowers are bright crimson red, medium-sized, semi-double, appear in large racemes. The bush is branched, erect, compact, up to 60 cm in height. Foliage is dark green and very glossy.

We have described the most popular varieties of floribunda roses among gardeners in the Urals and Siberia. But there are many more the most beautiful varieties, to which we also advise you to pay your attention.

Lilac floribunda roses

White floribunda roses

yellow floribunda roses

pink floribunda roses

Orange floribunda roses

Red floribunda roses

Mixed color floribunda roses

The Scientific and Production Association "Gardens of Russia" has been implementing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. The association uses the most modern technologies, a unique laboratory of plant micropropagation has been created. The main objectives of NPO "Gardens of Russia" is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material of popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery planting material(seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post. We are waiting for you for shopping: NGO "Gardens of Russia"

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The best frost-resistant varieties of roses for the climate of Siberia

Not all plants can endure the harsh Siberian climate. As the Siberians themselves joke: "In our area, weaklings do not survive." In winter, the air temperature can reach -50 degrees, and in summer +35. Sharply continental climate with late spring and in the short summer creates difficult conditions for flower growers. But nothing is impossible if you set a goal. There are roses that can withstand the Siberian weather. These specially bred varieties are intended for flower growers of the north. Let's consider them in more detail.

What roses are the most unpretentious and winter-hardy

When buying seedlings, priority should be given to plants grown in Siberian nurseries. Flower growers also distinguish Canadian varieties, which are also suitable for growing roses in the conditions of the north. But getting them is not so easy, besides, deceivers often come across who pass off ordinary seedlings as Canadians. A reliable proven supplier will be able to guarantee the quality of the goods, so you should not unconditionally believe ads that promise to sell seedlings at fabulous discounts.

As long-term observation has shown, grafted seedlings take root best of all in Siberia. Due to their high immunity, they practically do not freeze out in winter.

Fans put this type of flower growers in the first place. A plant with large, dark pink flowers, fading at the ends. This rose blooms repeatedly in waves, the first time is very plentiful. In a more severe climate, the flower will be smaller than in the south of Siberia, where it can reach twelve centimeters in diameter. This climbing rose has very good immunity, it is resistant to fungal diseases. Rosarium Vetersen has powerful stems up to three meters high. It is simply impossible to break them in strong winds and even with the wrong laying on winter period. The rose bush is placed in an arch, pergola or other structures.

Westerland German

This variety is very popular and loved by Siberians.

It blooms early and remains blooming almost until wintering.
The German rose has a large flower (10 cm in diameter) of apricot or orange.
This type of plant is the most unpretentious, does not require additional care, for which it received the ADR certificate.
If you carefully and timely remove the fading flowers, then the rose bush will begin to grow actively and form many new buds.

New Dawn

Pale pink and very fragrant rose. Blooms almost all season and never gets sick. New Dan is of American origin and translates as "New Dawn". But the Siberians gave him their name - "Very". Thus, they characterized the possibilities of this type of roses: very fragrant, prickly and unpretentious. When buying, you should be more careful, as there is another variety of this variety that blooms only once at the very beginning of summer.

William Sheakespeare 2000

This rose is of English origin and was bred by the famous breeder David Austin. William Shakespeare has beautiful fragrant purple-red flowers. The height of the stem is slightly more than one meter with many processes. Due to the high immunity to fungal diseases and undemanding care, William has become a real favorite among all gardeners in Siberia. When buying, you should carefully read the name of the variety, the fact is that there is still William Shakespeare without the number 2000. This ancestor of William Sheakespeare 2000 does not have the same frost resistance as the modern species, so it is better for Siberians not to take it.

See also: Lilies: planting and care in open ground

Last fifth place in the ranking best roses for Siberia, also occupies a David Austin selection product called Golden Celebration. No wonder this variety was called the Golden Holiday. Big yellow buds with a caramel and lemon scent really create a sense of celebration. The only disease that this plant does not tolerate is black spot. Austin roses are the best varieties for the Moscow region - Princess Margaret and Alexandra Kent. All these varieties tolerate cold well, but this does not mean that the bushes can be left uncovered during the winter at a winter temperature of 35 degrees.

Chippendale

Heads the rating of roses for the Moscow region - Chippendаle. An unpretentious species, resistant to heat and cold, is the best suited for growing in a continental climate. This rose has beautiful large (12 cm in diameter) orange flowers with a discreet pleasant aroma. A cut stem with a flower can be stored in a vase for about two weeks. This variety is especially loved by country designers, it is good to form various design solutions from it. These flowers are a real find for cottages and home gardens.

Black Magic

A variety of frost-resistant roses from German breeders. Very beautiful, frost-resistant and unpretentious roses can stand in a vase for up to three weeks. Black Magic has a dark red (black) bud color and large, very beautiful leaves. The variety was bred for commerce, but it is grown with pleasure by all flower growers of the northern countries as a decoration for the site.

Robusta

The frost-resistant Robusta variety is suitable for both flower growers in the Moscow region and Siberians. The peculiarity of this rose is that it is able to recover even after a slight freezing. The choice of shades is quite large, which allows flower growers to create various color compositions on the site.

Rugelda

The frost-resistant Regelda rose has lemon-colored flowers and double petals with light red edges. Judging by the reviews of summer residents, this park variety is so frost-resistant that gardeners do not even cover it for the winter. These roses do not require special care.

Hansaland

Perhaps the most unpretentious bush variety for the Moscow region is Hinseland. Due to the fact that this rose lends itself well to formation, Hansaland has become one of the favorite flowers of garden designers. Lush buds of rich red color are the best fit as a decoration for a garden plot. This plant has a height of about 1.5 meters, which makes it ideal for creating a hedge. As already mentioned, one of the ideal options for flower growers in Siberia are Canadian varieties of roses.

Mackenzie

Tall, up to two meters rose bush with pink or red odorless flowers. This plant usually blooms all summer and is quite plentiful. Mackenzie is very cold hardy and is perfect for the Siberian climate. It may not be closed in winter.

Morden Centennial

Bright pink flowers of medium size in Centenary Morden are collected in inflorescences. The bush of the plant is usually a little more than one meter, the aroma of the flower is unexpressed. This variety can withstand frost and over -30 degrees, but if the bush is covered for the winter, then the rose will bloom more abundantly in summer. Judging by the reviews of flower growers, this Canadian variety is equally loved by all residents of the northern regions of Russia.

Wasagaming

Outwardly, this variety resembles a small tree about two meters high. Wasagaming does not need shelter for the winter. The only thing Wasagaming doesn't like is excessive humidity. Flowers planted in the seaside are often attacked by gray rot. It is propagated by cuttings.

See also: Dicentra flower: description, types, reproduction and care

Prairie Joy

Pink buds with a pleasant, slightly perceptible aroma. The petals grow burgundy, and when they grow, they become a deep green color. Prairie Joy's fragrance is mild and does not irritate others. The variety is valued by summer residents of Siberia due to its frost resistance. It is lightly covered for the winter with branches or film, as the shelter helps to get more abundant flowering bush.

Adelaide

This variety has advantages over the others. It grows very quickly, and flexible branches enable country designers to create the most unthinkable solutions. Judging by the rave reviews, an unpretentious, frost-resistant variety with bright red flowers collected in inflorescences is very popular with flower growers in the Moscow region.

In my experience, one can judge a good wintering in Siberian conditions of elegant varieties of David Austin roses.

Austin varieties that winter safely in our garden: "Graham Thomas", "Glamis Castle" (charming and prickly hard work - blooms continuously), "Tamora" (huge delicate flowers; winters with us, although recommended for the southern regions), "William Sheckspeare 2000".

Olga Nikolaevna Plotnikova (Novosibirsk)

How to plant, cover and propagate Siberian roses

Spray roses care and cultivation

Landing time. Taking into account the climatic features of the region, hardy roses it is best to plant starting in May, waiting until the earth warms up to ten degrees Celsius. Siberian flower growers even found a sign: as soon as dandelions bloom, rose seedlings can be planted. The deadline for landing is the fifteenth of June. Otherwise, the rose bush will not become stronger during the short Siberian summer and will freeze in winter.
Soil for planting. For landing winter-hardy varieties roses will need acidic soil with plenty of humus, and loam can be used as a base. The best composition, for a rose the following: 1 part clay, 1 sand, 2 peat, 3 humus and 0.5 wood ash.
Planting a seedling. The pit for planting should be at least 0.5 m. Before planting, the roots of pink seedlings are kept in a growth stimulator solution for three and a half hours. If the root is long, it is pruned. Thus, the lateral roots will be stimulated. If these are tea or English varieties (William Shakespeare, for example), then the planting should be a little deeper than usual. The grafted place is deepened by 8 cm to the surface of the earth. So, the bush becomes more resistant to wintering. It happens that the plant lets out roots just above the grafting site and develops its weak root system. Such roots should be removed immediately.
Watering and hilling. The root should be straightened along its entire length. The hole is dug in and watered. If desired, you can water the plant even before instillation. The landing site must be hilled, otherwise the water can evaporate. If a rose is planted in a very cold region, then at night it is advised to cover it with lutrasil, so the bushes will be protected from night frosts.

How to properly cover roses in Siberia

Resourceful flower growers have invented several ways to keep their favorites from frost. Here are some of them:

Roses can be covered with snow simply by throwing more snow on each bush. Fortunately, in Siberia, the snow does not melt during the winter, but lies stably, only being added from time to time.
With the help of plastic arcs, a frame is made and leaves with earth are poured on top. From above, the frame is reinforced with spunbond and film. The edges of the film must end on the ground so that they can be fixed with a brick. Until the most severe frosts, the film is kept slightly ajar, otherwise the bush may ban.
Another option is to make a polycarbonate hut. To do this, Siberian gardeners take two parts of polycarbonate and put them over a bush, fasten them with twine and put a film on top. As in the previous case, the film is kept slightly ajar until the most severe frosts.
Small bushes can be hidden for the winter under plastic buckets. To do this, sprinkle each rose spruce branches and put buckets on top.

With the advent of hardy and frost-resistant varieties, rose cultivation became available in the gardens of Siberia. Here, the regional climate is somewhat harsh for culture, so gardeners are required to have good knowledge and adherence to agricultural technology, careful selection of winter-hardy varieties and shelter for the winter.

This review presents the most hardy, frost-resistant varieties adapted to the climatic and soil conditions of Siberia. These plants are distinguished by strong immunity to major diseases and pests., do not lose their decorative effect during heavy rainfall.

Chippendale ( Chippendale

A plant that forms a shrub 80-120 cm high and 100 cm wide. Double flowers in the old style, bright orange color with a diameter of 10-12 cm. Recommended for planting in massive flower beds, as an accent in the background.

Queen Elizabeth ( queen elizabeth

Bush height from 100 to 250 cm. Terry flowers, goblet-shaped, pink, 10 cm in diameter. The plant forms compact bush suitable for landing in confined spaces. Grows well on poor soils.

Golden Celebration ( Golden Celebration)

A rounded shrub 120-150 cm high and 120 cm wide. The flowers combine an old shape and an unusual copper-yellow color, they are large in size from 14 to 16 cm in diameter. Features of the variety - rapid growth of shoots, spicy-fruity aroma of flowers. During heavy rains, the flowers do not open. A great option for decorating mixborders.

The variety is considered to be the best among red roses. The plant forms lush bush 100-120 cm high and 100 cm wide. It is distinguished by the rapid flowering of new shoots, the formation of large brushes that stay on the bush for more than 2 weeks. The flowers are densely double bright purple hue, more than 10 cm in diameter with a characteristic aroma. Suitable for single and group landings.

New Dawn ( New Dawn)

Climbing plant, which with support reaches up to 5 m in height, and without it up to 2 m. The variety is characterized by continuous flowering from June to late autumn.. Pastel pink flowers, 7-8 cm in diameter. The bush opens most vividly when planted near a tree during the free hanging of the lashes from the branches.

Westerland ( Westerland

The variety is distinguished by a tall (2 m) and wide bush (1.5 m). Terry flowers 10-11 cm in diameter with a pronounced aroma. They change color during the season: orange, apricot shades smoothly turn into pink. The plant can be used as a climbing and bush. The variety is self-sufficient for single plantings.

rose garden Yutersen ( Rosarium Uetersen)

Lush shrub 200-350 cm high and 200 cm wide. Flowers 9-12 cm in diameter, densely double, rich pink shade with a slight aroma. Suitable for decorating spacious lawns.

Plants of these varieties are distinguished by repeated or continuous flowering throughout the season. In rare cases, shrubs can be seen without a single flower. But even at this time, the bushes do not lose their decorative effect. Bright green glossy leaves, beautiful shoots and thorns are attractive in their own way.

What roses should be chosen for Siberia?

Features of the climate of Siberia - late spring, a small number of warm days, severe winters, strong Siberian frosts. Such conditions can withstand only plants zoned in the regional climate. So the first rule for gardeners is to purchase a seedling from local nurseries.

Roses grafted onto wild roses are much easier to take root and are distinguished by their endurance. It is distinguished by strong immunity to diseases, the ability to adapt to any conditions and quickly recover from cold damage.

A scion should also have a good characteristic. The best indicators in all respects show varieties of Canadian selection, derived taking into account the climate of this country, similar to the conditions of Siberia. Roses for planting in Siberia must have high rates of frost resistance, resistance to diseases and pests.

Winter hardiness depends not only on the characteristics of the plant, but also on the efforts of the gardener - proper care during the season, regular top dressing with minerals, proper preparation for winter.

Features of planting roses

Since spring is late in Siberia, the soil often does not have time to warm up to a temperature comfortable for the roots, it is recommended to plant them on the south side of the site. To prevent bud burnout, it is desirable that the plants are in the shade during the hours of the most active sun.

The climate of Siberia is characterized by cold northern and western winds. Therefore, from these directions, the rosary must have protection. These can be the walls of buildings, plants with a dense crown, arbors or hedges. So that the wind barrier does not greatly obscure the roses, they are planted at some distance.

For the rose garden, if possible, select elevated areas. In such places, the soil does not have time to freeze to critical temperatures and quickly thaws. This means that the roots will develop faster in the spring, less at risk of rotting due to excessive moisture.

In Siberia, roses are recommended to be planted in spring. Event planned for the period from May 15 to June 15. In this case, the air temperature should not be lower than +10°C. The shoots of plants planted later than these dates do not have time to mature, which causes death in the very first winter season.

Otherwise, planting roses in Siberia differs little from warmer regions. A planting hole (50x50x50x) is formed on a pre-dug area for plants and a substrate is prepared. To do this, components are mixed on a piece of film:

humus 3 parts;
peat 2 parts;
weathered clay 1 part;
river sand 1 part;
wood ash 400 g

Minerals superphosphate 300 g and potassium sulfate 30 g are added to the soil mixture.

The roots of the seedling, longer than 20 cm, are cut and immersed in a growth stimulator for 3-4 hours. A rose is planted with a deepening of the grafting site: for climbing roses by 10 cm, and for bush by 7 cm.

During planting, a hill is formed at the bottom of the pit, on which a seedling is placed and the roots are straightened. After powdering the roots and compacting the near-stem circle, water 10 l warm water . After that, the bush is spudded to a height of 10-15 cm, the soil under the bush is mulched with peat or humus. For the first time after planting, seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight.

Basic care for Siberian roses

The roots of roses penetrate deep enough. Therefore, plants do not require frequent watering. It is enough to carry it out once every 3-5 days, depending on the weather.. At the same time, the earth lump should be completely wetted, the norm is determined by the size of the bush from 10 to 20 liters.

In the first year after planting, the plants do not need top dressing. In subsequent seasons, it is important to feed the roses regularly.:

in early spring: aqueous solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g / 10 l);
after 15 days re-fertilization with ammonium nitrate, watering with infusion of mullein (1: 10), 4 liters under each bush;
at the start of budding a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon / 10 l);
a week after that useful foliar top dressing : solutions of double superphosphate, potassium nitrate, infusions of mullein or ash, macronutrients to choose from;
before flowering solutions of potassium magnesia or potassium humate;
after flowering and sanitary pruning mineral complexes with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus (1 tablespoon / 10 l);
at the beginning of August organic solution, after 2 weeks with potassium-phosphorus complexes, and after another week with potassium sulfate.
in September potassium magnesia.

In August, the application of nitrogen fertilizers is completely stopped.

Rest seasonal care consists of regular weeding and loosening of the trunk circle, shaping and sanitary pruning. To prevent diseases in spring and autumn, the bushes are sprayed with fungicidal solutions.

To stimulate the ripening of shoots, watering is stopped from August. In the third decade of September, in dry weather, water-charging irrigation is carried out. The water rate for one bush is 40-50 l. Moistened in the deep layers, the soil freezes and thaws more slowly, retains heat longer.

During this period, loosening of the trunk circle and forming pruning are stopped. This is necessary to prevent the growth of new shoots.

Before shelter, all leaves and petioles of plants are removed, unripened shoots are cut off.

Before the cold weather is below 0 ° C, the shoots of the rose are tied with twine and bent to the ground.. It is important to avoid contact of the branches with the soil, which leads to rotting of the stems, so they are fixed with a wire hook.

On top of the prepared shrub, wooden shields are installed in the form of a roof, securing them with pegs. The ends should only be closed when the temperature is below -7°C. On top of the shelter lay a dense polyethylene film and fix.

The main cause of damage to roses in winter is the effect of moisture on the plant. Therefore, measures to cover roses are carried out only in dry weather, and in winter they prevent humidification of the air inside the shields. To do this, with prolonged thaws, the ends of the shelter must be slightly opened.

Despite the whimsicalness of plants, gardeners admit that cultivation of roses in Siberia allows you to create in personal plot special atmosphere. Only the first 2 years are considered especially difficult. As they grow older, properly cared for roses become much hardier and do not require close attention.

Growing roses in Siberia: choosing winter-hardy varieties + planting and care rules Siberians joke that wimps do not survive in their harsh winters. We need a strong character, not only for people, but also for plants. So the criteria for selecting colors for site design in Siberian conditions are much more severe than for the Moscow region or the southern regions of the country. And yet, residents of cold regions successfully grow even beautiful roses. They have developed many interesting ways plant shelters, planting tricks to protect the root system in harsh winters. We looked through the forums of Siberian gardeners and chose the most important information about frost-resistant varieties, shelter technology for the winter, and what features planting roses in spring in Siberia has. Contents Rose Varieties for Cold Climates 1st Place: Rosarium Uetersen 2nd Place: Westerland 3rd Place: New Dawn 4th Place: William Sheakespeare 2000 5th Place: Golden Celebration Location Selection: Looking for the Sunny Side Planting Rules: Light Earth + Buried Siberian Ways to Cover These Roses Varieties roses for cold climates The Siberian climate is known to be characterized by late spring, short summers and harsh winters. To withstand such conditions, plants must initially be zoned in the local climate. Those. in terms of survival rate, seedlings grown in Siberian nurseries are in the lead. Gardeners give second place to Canadian roses, because the climate of this country is similar to Siberian. But real Canadian roses, unfortunately, are rare. This category of plants is too attractive for buyers, so it is most often faked. Canadian varieties it is better to purchase only from a reliable supplier, and, of course, not from the hands or on the market. The second selection criterion is vaccination. According to statistics, grafted varieties of roses in Siberia endure winters much more easily and do not freeze out, because they have higher immunity. The rootstock for a varietal rose is usually rosehip, and its immune system is much more enduring than that of its own rose roots. Here is how, according to Siberian gardeners, the five most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties of roses look like: First place: Rosarium Uetersen Belongs to the Climber group, i.e. large-flowered climbing roses. It can also be grown as a stem. It blooms with dark pink petals with gradual fading. The size of the flower can reach 12 cm, but the colder the climate, the smaller the inflorescences will be. The approximate size of flowers for Novosibirsk is 5-6 cm. Rosarium Uetersen is loved for its resistance to fungal infections, repeated flowering (the first is the most abundant, and after - in waves). Powerful stems are not afraid of frost or wind. Gardeners can ruin this rose unless it is laid incorrectly for the winter, when the stems break from an unsuccessfully chosen laying direction. The bush grows up to 3 meters. Rosarium Wetersen fits perfectly into arches, pergolas and other supporting structures, and if desired, it can be grown as a stem. Second place: Westerland A German variety, adored in Siberia for its continuous flowering. This rose wakes up and blooms very early, and after that it practically does not remain without flowers. The flowers change color from bright orange to apricot-salmon. In diameter - up to 10 cm. It has an ADR certificate as one of the most unpretentious roses. Timely removal of fading flowers from the Westerland climbing rose stimulates the bush to vigorous growth and the formation of new flower buds. Third place: New Dawn A descendant of American roses. It blooms with pale pink, fragrant flowers almost the entire season. Siberian gardeners gave her the nickname "Very", i.e. very frost-resistant, very unpretentious (grows everywhere), very prickly, very fragrant, etc. The only caveat: recently New Dawn specimens have appeared that bloom only once. Therefore, before ordering, specify the number of blooms, otherwise you can see this beauty only once, at the beginning of summer. Siberians believe that New Down lives under the motto "Everyone will perish, but I will remain", because it survives in the most inhuman conditions. Fourth place: William Sheakespeare 2000 English rose of a new generation, grown by the world famous breeder David Austin. It blooms with velvety rich red flowers, gradually turning into a purple hue. Fragrant, medium height (up to 110 cm), on each branch forms a lot of flowering brushes. When buying, pay attention to the presence of the number 2000, since there is also an ancestor of this rose - William Sheakespeare, who does not have such a high immunity to fungal infections. William Shakespeare 2000 - the result of selection of the English "ancestor" of the same name, which is distinguished by high immunity to diseases and excellent frost resistance. Fifth place: Golden Celebration Another pet of David Austin. It blooms twice, bright yellow large flowers, similar to balls, exuding a lemon-caramel aroma. In cold climates, it grows up to one and a half meters tall. Practically not susceptible to diseases, except for black spot. Looks great in mixborders. Sunny, large inflorescences of Golden Celebration smell like lemon candy, so they are planted near resting places to enjoy the wonderful aroma Location choice: looking for the sunny side Due to the fact that spring comes late in Siberia, and there are not very many sunny days a year a lot, they try to plant roses on the south side. But completely open area not very profitable, since the flowering period is significantly accelerated, and the flowers burn out in the heat. It is best to consider light penumbra with the help of sparse-leaved shrubs or trees. Roses are planted near them in such a way that in the hottest time of the day they are protected by the foliage of the "neighbors". It is advisable to select high places for the rose garden. There, the degree of freezing of the soil is always less, which means that the roots will wake up faster. This will save the plant from high humidity, which is characteristic of the lowlands. Too much moisture provokes the development of rot and fungal infections. Strong winds are not uncommon in Siberia, with a cold front coming from both the north and the west. From these directions (north, northwest and northeast), roses need protection in the form of buildings, arbors, hedges, etc. But the wall should be at such a distance that no shadow is cast on the bushes. Landing rules: light ground + deepness Desirable for the Siberian climate spring plantings, and their term is much shorter than in other areas. The planting season begins in May, when the soil warms up to 10 degrees. Growers define optimal time dandelions: as soon as they bloom, it's time to plant rose bushes. Grafted seedlings are planted first, because the wild rose is not afraid of sudden late frosts. Own-rooted roses - not earlier than May 15. The maximum landing date is June 15th. If you are late, the rose will not have time to get stronger in a short summer and will leave for the winter without a lignified trunk. Which means it will freeze easily. Siberian landing roses is not much different from the rest of the areas. Prickly beauties like slightly acidic soils with a high content of humus. The basis of the soil can be loam. It is good when planting to lay on the bottom of the pit and sprinkle with earth rotted horse manure, which will warm the roots. Bushes are not planted directly in manure, so as not to burn young roots. The optimal composition of the earth: 1 part clay + 1 part sand + 3 parts humus + 2 parts peat + 0.5 parts wood ash. Not bad if they immediately make a special fertilizer for roses. Landing rules: The depth of the landing pit is at least half a meter. Purchased seedlings are dipped in a solution of water with a growth stimulator for 3-4 hours so that they are saturated with moisture. Too long roots (above 20 cm) are shortened, stimulating the growth of lateral roots. Paraffin is removed from the aerial part and the branches are slightly cut (to a healthy green color). Most important point: slightly recessed fit. Many gardeners in Siberia have found that tea, English varieties and floribundas survive frost better if the grafting site is not 5 cm below the soil level, but 7-8 cm, i.e. a little deeper. Accordingly, climbing roses need 12-15 cm. Such plantings can be covered more weakly, and some owners completely abandoned shelter by buying varieties with high frost resistance. When planting in depth, the rose can release roots above the grafting site, developing its own root system, which is weaker than that of the wild rose, so the “wrong” roots must be removed. When planting, the roots of the rose are straightened so that they go only from top to bottom, and not wrapped in a ring. A planting mound can help this arrangement: fertile soil is poured into the bottom of the pit, a seedling is placed on its top, the roots are straightened along the mound and sprinkled. When planting, a mound is watered after the rose is planted. With a normal planting, you can first shed the roots, and then fill it with soil. After planting, they certainly spud a bush to a height of 15 cm. This is necessary so that the water does not evaporate quickly. The earth will also protect the tender branches from the scorching sun, because at the time of engraftment they dry out very quickly. In the northernmost areas, plantings are covered with lutrasil to protect them from night frosts. Siberian ways to shelter such roses To grow roses in Siberia did not end with the freezing of bushes in the very first winter, gardeners came up with a lot different options shelters. Their similarity is that for roses in a cold climate it is necessary to create a dry shelter, i.e. protect each seedling from above with waterproof material. It will protect the plant from moisture, which instantly turns into ice. Cover Options: Snow Blanket. If your area has consistently snowy winters, then throwing snow on each bush is the best shelter option. Indeed, in Siberia, snow both falls and lies until the very spring, so there is always a stable temperature under it. "Frame made of plastic arcs". They make a frame of two intersecting arcs, put it over a rose, cover the bush with half dry earth or leaves, cover it with a double layer of spunbond or lutrasil on top, on top of which they must spread the film so that it captures part of the soil. Sprinkle the edges of the film with earth. Before the onset of a stable frost, the film should be ajar so that the stems do not rot. "Polycarbonate House" Instead of plastic arcs, two pieces of polycarbonate are placed above the rose, fastened at the top with twine. It turns out a house. Top cover with lutrasil and film. But at the ends, the film is closed only after the onset of frost. From plastic buckets. Each bush is spudded to a height of 20 cm, covered with fir paws and covered with plastic containers without holes on top. This is how it all looks like: You can’t cover roses only with lutrasil without using a film, because during a thaw moisture accumulates inside, and during the first frost it will settle with ice on plants Covering roses with spruce paws is recommended for those owners who have a lot of mice, since they they like to build nests in lutrasil In any type of shelter in early spring, many Siberians repeatedly spill the soil with epin to reanimate their pets. Grateful roses endow their owners with abundant and fragrant flowering, although nature has given them very little time for this.

We have selected varieties of roses for those who have never grown roses!

Getting started is half the battle! Choosing the right varieties for a beginner rose grower is not an easy task.

If you do not know how to prune roses in spring, how to cover them, how to protect them from diseases and how to treat them, you should not be upset. There are roses that will teach you this.

Below is a list of the easiest varieties to grow. All varieties in 3 and 2 climatic zones require shelter with loose garden soil and lurtasil (density not less than 60) along the frame. For 4 and 5 climatic zones, only earthen shelter (in the second year after planting)

Varieties for the most beautiful places in the garden, for front flower beds:

Mozart and Ballerina (European collection) are two time-tested varieties. The same type of growth, but with a different color of the flower. The inflorescences are massive and resemble clusters of huge hydrangeas.

Parfun de l'Hay and Rosario de l'Hay (aroma oil collection) - these two varieties were described and recommended at the beginning of the 20th century by Mr. Desyatov, the largest rose grower of pre-revolutionary Russia.

The photo shows varieties of roses Louse Odier and William Buffin growing near the fence along the road.

The queen of gardens and parks, the rose has long and deservedly been loved by flower growers all over the world. Decorates this flower and Russian landscapes. Its climbing species are ideal for vertical gardening. Is it possible to grow beautiful and healthy roses in Siberia? Planting and care (photos and tips are provided in the article), properly implemented, as well as recommendations for disease control will help you cope with this task.

The choice of variety must be conscious

Before you start breeding roses, you should get acquainted with the varieties. Don't rush to buy. After all, you can purchase seedlings via the Internet, and this greatly expands the range and makes it possible to make a good choice. Study the varieties, chat with rose growers on the forums, read the relevant blogs. With live communication with flower growers, you can learn a lot of valuable information. Beginners do not even always know what requirements plants must meet.

Often, only a flower is visible in the photographs in the catalogs of stores. Its smell, the shape of the bush, capriciousness in care or unpretentiousness - all this is very important. How long does flowering last, how friendly is it, do the flowers burn out, how do they look after flowering? Such information is not always available from the seller.

If the photo shows a single flower, but does not show the entire bush, this may mean that the plant does not have abundant flowering or the bush is not able to boast of a decorative form.

Amateur gardeners who are just starting to master this plant always have many questions at first, for example: “Is it possible to grow roses in Siberia in open ground?” Certainly, it is possible. And this is not at all as difficult as it might seem at first glance. The area is huge, but very coldy happen everywhere.

Difficulties in growing roses in a harsh climate

Beginners can be advised to pay attention to cold-resistant varieties. But growing roses in Siberia in a greenhouse is possible even in the most northern regions.

In order for the undertaking to be crowned with success, and the noble plant endowed lush bloom, you need to know and follow some rules. If you master them, and they are not at all complicated, you will not disappoint, and perhaps even become a favorite hobby, planting roses in Siberia. The timing of the beginning and end of garden work is related to the ambient temperature and the degree of warming of the earth. Because in last years the climate is unstable, this adds new questions for the care of a delicate flower.

For the most part, they all agree in determining the timing of planting, in caring for a safe wintering, in the right fertilizer that provides long and abundant flowering, and in the fight against diseases. As for varieties such as Rambler or Clymer, and these are fairly common, unpretentious and well-mastered climbing roses by gardeners, planting and caring for these species in Siberia is not difficult. However, their cultivation is accompanied by other pleasant concerns, such as arranging them in the landscape.

Where to plant

They are light loving. Planting roses in Siberia in autumn should be carried out taking into account this feature. By the way, it has been noticed that if the shrubs are provided with proper care - watering, fertilizing, etc., then they feel great and bloom even in partial shade.

If you want to decorate the wall of your house with plants, then roses are not the best choice. Near the house there is a high risk of unwanted temperature changes. On the one side - cold air streets, on the other warm wall Houses. Snow melting or snow drifts are likely, icing during periods of thaw. Such contrasts are detrimental to delicate plants. Even good illumination of the southern wall may not save the situation. Roses should not be planted near the walls at all. For them, a well-lit place with partial shade in the center or on the outskirts of the site will be more comfortable. If you really want to decorate the house, then plant bushes at a distance of at least a meter from the south wall.

Soil preparation

Dig a hole about 40x40x40 cm, put it on the bottom. Roses are very sensitive to the quality of the soil. If it is clayey, fluff it up by adding sand, wood ash, humus, some peat and leafy soil. If the soil is more sandy, then manure, humus and leafy soil. These components will make it quite nutritious and moderately weighted.

Planting roses in Siberia is not tricky, and if you have a plant grown not on a rootstock, but on its own root, then you can not be afraid that in spring instead of cultivar you will have a well-wintered bush of wild rose hips on the site. Try to choose exactly rooted varieties, and in any case, deepen the root collar by at least 5 cm. It is also not recommended to deepen it further, since the rose will release new roots from the grafting site, and it will grow much weaker on the roots of the scion.

Half or a third of the prepared soil mixture should be placed at the bottom of the pit, under the roots. Then you should thoroughly moisten the substrate by pouring water into the pit. Powder the roots with ashes before planting and carefully and evenly place them in the pit. Pour the remaining earth onto the roots from above, trying to compact well so that there are no large voids between them. Water generously again.

How to save seedlings?

Autumn is more suitable for planting and transplanting an adult rose. Landing and care in Siberia in the spring - the best time for plants obtained from cuttings, as well as for roses sent by mail and overwintered in a cold room at home.

Start off garden work you can immediately after the snow has melted, when the shovel easily enters the ground. This usually happens in April. Old bushes can also be replanted in spring, but this is less advisable than in autumn - long-term habituation to a new place can negatively affect flowering, and you will think that the bush has degenerated or the place has been chosen inappropriate. But cuttings in the spring always work out perfectly. Harvest branches in the fall. Cut long shoots, bring home and disinfect in a weak place. Store them in the basement in a box of sand. If there is no basement, then put it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for fresh vegetables. To prevent the shoots from drying out, wrap them in a damp cloth, and then in polyethylene. In the spring they will be fresh and green.

Reproduction by cuttings

In April, when the snow melts, remove the thin upper parts of the shoots, cut the branches into 10-15 cm cuttings with buds on each, soak for a day in water with potassium permanganate and you can plant them. For a guaranteed result, use the root.

To spring frosts do not destroy the plants, plant them in a sunny, wind-protected place with a loose place. Cover each cutting with a plastic bottle: cut off the bottom, and use the top with a lid as a mini-greenhouse. Make sure the ground is constantly moist. After a month, you can begin to air the greenhouse bottles by removing the caps for a short while. This will gradually accustom the plants to the natural atmosphere. Do it very carefully. Rooting requires heat, a constant temperature, high humidity and lack of movement. Accustomed to such conditions and being in the fresh air, a pampered plant can not cope with complex adaptation and die.

It is believed that the appearance of the first leaves indicates that rooting has taken place. Do not rush to rejoice. You can permanently remove the bottles only after a couple of months. In addition, all this year you will have to carefully take care of young plants - shade from the scorching sun, fertilize, prevent the soil from drying out or stagnant water, protect from freezing.

Are there winter-hardy Planting and care in Siberia of many varieties of ramblers and climbings does not cause any particular difficulties, since they are characterized as unpretentious and winter-hardy. If you are a beginner, then choose a native root variety grown in a local nursery.

Ramblers

I must say that growing roses in Siberia from cuttings is best done with ramblers. The most well-established varieties in harsh climates are Dorothy Perkins, Bobby James and Excelsa. Cuttings can be practiced throughout the summer. For cuttings, branches are collected from the third quarter of the lash - the one that is closer to the end. Cut sticks the size of a pencil. Rooting in a greenhouse occurs within a month.

Ramblers are very handy plants for decorating small areas. Their whips grow up to five meters, they are very flexible and plastic. They are twisted around the support clockwise, trying to make the branch lie horizontally. This technique stimulates the growth of new flowering shoots of roses. Planting and care in Siberia varieties "rambler" is suitable for beginner gardeners. Its flowers are small, terry, collected in lush inflorescences, which cover the entire bush very densely. Flowering, though single, but very plentiful, lasts almost a whole month. In order for the flowers to decorate your garden longer, stop fertilizing as soon as flowering begins and monitor the moisture content of the soil under the bush.

Variety with fragrant flowers

Musk roses are highly prized by many gardeners. Planting and care in Siberia of this variety will be successful if you choose a place for them with loose neutral soil, well protected from cold winds and adequately lit. Traditional musk roses exude a strong amber scent. It does not come from the petals, as is the case with other varieties, but from the stamens, so even withered flowers continue to be fragrant. However, they do not always have such a bright aroma. Many hybrids are more ornamental than older varieties, but lack scent. produce flexible whips up to 2.5 meters long. This allows you to use them to decorate gazebos and arches. The best varieties are "mozart" and "ballerina".

Miniature climbing rose

Another charming example of climbing roses is the pirouette variety. Since its branches do not grow more than one and a half meters, it is often planted as a scrub - a single bush. Small flowers of a slightly apricot hue are collected in brushes. They open very amicably and so plentifully that foliage is not visible behind them. Flowering is long. The aroma is delicate, pleasant, sweet, although weak. "Pirouette", practically does not suffer from powdery mildew and black spot, which are often overcome by roses. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia is also convenient because it is cold-resistant. A little shelter, however, is still needed.

climbers

These are, one might say, monumental climbing roses. Planting and caring for this variety in Siberia can be complicated by shelter difficulties. Compared to ramblers, whose whips reach five meters in length, climbers are just babies. Their shoots do not outgrow the 2-meter mark. However, they are very thick and do not bend as easily as miniature ramblers. It is very difficult to wrap such an escape around a pillar or arch. If you put a branch vertically up, then it will bloom only at the upper end. Flowers are formed very abundantly if the branch is located horizontally. In the flower garden they are fanned out on fences and trellises. This stimulates the growth of new flowering shoots. If you want roses to bloom for as long as possible, then stop feeding when the buds are set, and water daily in dry weather. And the climbers are blooming luxuriously! Large fragrant flowers adorn the bush for almost a whole month, and for remontants - twice a season. The best varieties are "elf", "rosanne", "pink cloud" and "pierre de ronsard".

Shelter for the winter

How to keep roses in Siberia in winter? Planting and care, watering and weeding, feeding and pest control - all the things that you did in the spring, summer and autumn may be in vain, and the next year you will have to start all over again, including the search for a good reliable bush, if your bush is beaten freezing.

Roses are covered after the first frost, on a dry day. This is important because sheltering wet bushes will create an unfavorable microclimate and the development of fungal infections. The shoots are removed from the supports and carefully laid out on the ground. If you bend down the thick branches of the climber, then use the pitchfork to dig the ground. This will make it easier to roll the bush. No need to spread it on the ground very low. Let it rise a little. Your goal is to dress the plants in a fur coat. Very well in severe winters, non-woven materials such as lutrasil have proven themselves. Take the thickest and fold in several layers. Bushes should be covered with a continuous blanket, and not in separate fragments. Press bricks around the perimeter.

opening

How does the cultivation of roses in Siberia begin? Spring is the time when new bushes are bought and old bushes are opened. Shelter should be removed in several stages. First they ventilate, then they open slightly, increasing the time, and, finally, they completely remove it. This is done in order to accustom the flowers to new conditions. After removing the covering material, they look through the lashes and cut off damaged or dead ones to healthy tissue. At this time, it is very convenient to loosen the ground around the rose and select the roots of the weed.

fertilizers

Do they require any special ones in Siberia? Planting and care in this region is somewhat more labor intensive than in Europe, but this is only due to protection from freezing in winter. Everything else is the same. In spring, plants require large amounts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Roses are very dependent on the microbiological composition of the soil and are sensitive to the lack of one or another element. As for acidity, slightly acidic (pH 5.6) will be just right for them. From mid July nitrogen supplements that enhance the growth of shoots should be stopped. Otherwise, by winter there will be many young, fragile shoots on the bushes that will not withstand a difficult winter - the affected tissues of young shoots will become a breeding ground for infections, which can provoke the death of the entire plant.

If it is possible to feed the rose with manure, then do it in the spring, and she will repay you with beautiful growth and flowering. Decomposed manure and mullein are the best fertilizers for roses. Manure is a supplier of nitrogen, and the necessary potassium and phosphorus are found in wood ash. In addition, for proper growth and development, plants need calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese and copper. Therefore, do not neglect complex mineral fertilizers.

Diseases and pests

It's time to find out what roses are sick with. Planting and caring for these delicate plants in Siberia is not very difficult, but the harsh climate weakens the immune properties of roses, and they can start to get sick. The most common climbing rose diseases are black spot and powdery mildew.

black spot

This trouble is not as terrible as it seems, although it spoils appearance bushes. Occurs most often in the second half of summer. The leaves are covered with black spots, then turn yellow and fall off. It starts from the bottom of the bush and gradually rises up. V severe cases leads to the complete fall of all foliage. At the onset of the disease, it is enough to cut off the affected leaves and burn them, and spray the bush with a weak solution of mullein (20 parts of water for one part of the mullein). Two or three procedures are enough. If you can't find mullein, buy products at the store that contain penconazole, triazole, or mancozeb. It can be "Topaz", "Profit", "Skor" or "Ridomil Gold".

powdery mildew

The disease often affects roses growing in a greenhouse. In climbing roses, it occurs as a result of dampening as a result of too much watering in cool weather. Affects young parts. They are covered with a white powdery coating. Spraying the bushes with an infusion of wood ash is very effective in this case. First you need to remove the affected leaves, buds and shoots, cutting them to a healthy tissue. All this must be burned so that the pathogenic microflora does not resume activity. Cleaned bushes should be sprayed with a solution of ash, and after two hours, wash it off with clean water. In case of severe damage, preparations containing triazole are used - "Skor" and "Topaz".