DIY carved hammer handle. Are hammers easy? What are hammer handles made of?
A hammer is the most important tool in the house. And he will hammer a nail, and split a nut, and straighten the wire. This is the father of all equipment and all tools. The development of hammer production is characterized by high level progress, so you can easily find the most effective tool for each activity. If you do metalwork, then you will need a plumber's hammer. No master can do without this percussion instrument.
The purpose of a plumber's hammer
Humanity has known and used a hammer for a very long time - even at the dawn of existence. This is the very first tool, as well as a part-time weapon of primitive man. People, as they developed, improved and changed the hammer. The materials of hammers of ancient times corresponded to the development of people and changed in the following sequence: bone - wood - bronze.
The design of the hammer has not changed these days: the butt plate, the striking part with the striker and the handle. The firing pin and the handle are connected to each other through a hole in the body and a wedge driven into the handle. The tail may be various shapes. The body is usually made of steel, but can be made of copper, wood, lead and rubber. The handle is most often made of wood, metal or plastic.
There are many types of hammers. Doctors and architects, cooks and musicians, not to mention carpenters, metalworkers, mechanics and builders, use hammers in their work. The most famous hammers are copper hammers, sledgehammers, straightening hammers, carpenter's hammers, mason's hammers and metalworker's hammers.
It is the last of these, the plumber’s hammer with a round striker, that is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to prolong, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the desired point, assisting another tool - a chisel, chisel, punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows for a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A plumber's hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, give metal tubes their shape.
Construction of a plumber's hammer
Locksmith's hammer differs from the usual one in that it has 2 different strikers in its design - a flat one, which is intended for driving nails, and a tapering end, which is convenient for breaking various objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down or oblique surface of the striker, without hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of square-faced machinist's hammers is cheaper, so this variety received in plumbing practice wide use for light work. And hammers with a round striker have one advantage, which is that the striking part significantly outweighs the rear, which ensures greater accuracy and impact force.
The force of impact with a plumber's hammer depends on the level of gravity of the working part and the movement of the tool. This speed is regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element is regulated by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The striking part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. The handles are predominantly made of hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and are at least 250 millimeters long for hammers. Bench hammers weigh 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Making a plumber's hammer
A plumber's hammer has one weak spot - the section of the hammer handle, which is located under the striker. When driving pins, nails, and wedges, problems arise, especially at the initial stage of their fastening; craftsmen often miss the target and usually hit the nail not with the striker, but with this section of the handle.
As a result, chips and gouges appear on the handle. Hammers very often become loose, fly off the handle, or break. And buying a plumber's hammer does not guarantee the opposite, since plumber's hammers do not have a special tongue for protection, as, for example, in axes.
Of course, in retail outlets and construction stores sell hammers with plastic or metal handles, which are completely devoid of the problem of fitting the head, however, locksmith's hammers with wooden handles are traditional. In addition, they fit more securely in the hand and are warmer to the touch.
Therefore, today we will make a mechanic’s hammer with our own hands with wooden handle. Remember that it is enough to firmly and securely fasten the handle on it once, and it will work without question.
Handle of a plumber's hammer
So, let's start by making a handle for a plumber's hammer. First, let's talk about the dimensions: the handle should have an oval cross-section, approximately 250 - 350 millimeters long, tapering smoothly towards the end on which the tool head will be mounted. The best wood for making a handle is beech, oak, birch, maple, hornbeam, ash or rowan. It is considered absolutely unacceptable to make handles from easily scratchy wood: spruce, pine, alder or aspen.
Most often, handles for plumbing hammers are made from birch. To do this, you will need a small board, from which you need to carve the shape of a handle according to technological map making a plumber's hammer, then sand it well using construction sandpaper.
If you plan a handle from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, well-ventilated and shady place. Do not try to dry wood using artificial heat sources: air heaters, electric fireplaces and radiators, because with such drying the wood will inevitably crack and lose its strength.
If wooden handle for a machinist's hammer it will not be dried enough, it will dry out over time and decrease in volume. And therefore the head will dangle on it, constantly trying to fly off the hammer handle. To make the handle even smoother, it is recommended to coat it with a special furniture varnish. That's it, the handle for the plumber's hammer is ready, you can move on to the next stage.
Connection of head and handle
After making the handle, you need to insert its thin end into the hole in the tool head. It is considered ideal to fit the head of a metalworker's hammer on the handle with a certain force or “with interference,” as the craftsmen used to say.
If the handle turns out to be thick, you should first process its thin end with a rasp, and then with sandpaper. The end of the hammer handle should ultimately be a gentle cone. Place the head of the plumber's hammer on the handle, making sure it is perpendicular to the axis of the handle.
Hold the handle strictly vertically, with the head of the hammer up, and strike it with the back wide end against a hard surface from top to bottom. With each blow, the head of the plumber's hammer is slowly but surely pressed onto the expanding handle, becoming stronger and stronger on it. During subsequent blows, the immobility of the tool head indicates that it has firmly “sat” on the handle.
Wedging the hammer handle
There are several methods for making a plumber's hammer, but the most reliable is to use wedges. You can make wedges for a plumber's hammer with your own hands. Prepare a place for a wooden wedge. To prevent it from going to the side and damaging the handle, use a narrow chisel to make a notch that is approximately 5 millimeters deep, at an angle of 30 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade that is approximately 3 millimeters thick, approximately 15 millimeters wide, and ranges in length from 30 to 50 millimeters. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end must be made blunt.
After you hammer the wooden wedge into the handle of the hammer 15-20 millimeters, use a hacksaw with a fine tooth to saw off the upper part of the handle that sticks out from the head of the hammer, so that it protrudes beyond the boundaries of the head by at least 2-3 millimeters .
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal of the same shape and size as the wood wedge, but make it shorter - no more than 20 millimeters long. Take a sheet of iron that is about half a centimeter thick. Sharpen the wedge on a special machine and drive it into the handle under the same acute angle to the longitudinal axis of the hammer at 30 degrees, but from the center line on the other side.
After the metal wedge is completely driven “flush” into the hammer handle, the work on making a plumber’s hammer can be considered completed. Then you should place the plumber's hammer in water for 5 hours so that the wood swells. When the wood dries, the plumber's hammer will no longer wobble.
Using a plumber's hammer
Hammering a nail into a board using a plumber's hammer is not such an easy task, although it may seem so at first glance. If you make a bad hammer, then the surface underneath will break through and dents will appear, and this is not the most pleasant outcome. To drive a nail, make sure it fits work surface. Finish the job with 2-3 strikes.
In order for the connection to be strong, the nail must penetrate at least one third into the working surface. To make the connection rigid, drive the nails towards each other at an angle. The board will not split if the nail has a diameter of no more than one-fourth of its thickness. If you have to hammer a nail into a thin piece of wood, first use a pair of pliers to bite off its tip, which can tear and split the wood. It is easier to drive a nail into wet wood with a plumber's hammer than into dry wood.
When driving a nail into dry wood, hold it in the middle with pliers so that it does not bend under the resistance of the dry wood. Boards that are about 10-12 centimeters wide are fastened with one nail, wide boards are nailed with two nails. If you need to drive multiple nails, place them in a staggered pattern in several rows rather than in a straight line. A fairly convenient substitute for driving nails with human fingers is a wooden clothespin or a narrow strip of paper folded in half.
What do a sledgehammer, an ax and a hammer have in common? Operating principle. They need a swing to strike. That’s why a handle is needed, and the heavier the tool, the longer it is, as a rule.
During the swing, a centrifugal force acts on the metal part of the instrument, which tends to tear it off the handle. Moreover, this force is greater, the more massive the head and the longer the handle of the axe, sledgehammer or hammer.
Traditionally, to strengthen the head on the handle, a wooden wedge is driven into its end after the metal part is seated. Sometimes one or two smaller metal ones are driven in at an angle to the main wedge.
But there are also alternative ways securely fastening the parts of the above-mentioned tools relative to each other. Below we will consider and practically implement one of them.
Place the hammer on the handle without a wedge using rubber
The handle can be purchased at a hardware store or made yourself from hard wood, which includes: oak, birch, maple, rowan, beech, ash, dogwood and others. Just when choosing, you should pay attention to the end of the workpiece and choose the one whose annual rings are located longitudinally and not transversely. Such a handle will be stronger and last longer.
It is believed that the slot in the handle for driving in the wedge weakens it. If you use rubber to securely attach the hammer head to the handle, then loosening does not occur, since there is no need for a wedge fastening, and therefore no need for a slot.
It is necessary to prepare the handle blank for the attachment. To do this, we adjust the side with a smaller cross-section to the hole in the head using a carpenter's knife, a wood file or an emery wheel. The seating part of the handle should fit freely into the hole in the head without tension and correspond in length to it.
Next, we cut out a strip from a bicycle inner tube or any elastic rubber, the length of which should provide a girth around the seat of the handle with some clearance, and the width should have a margin of about 1 cm in both directions.
Lubricate the outside surface of the rubber with lithol to facilitate the attachment process.
To do this, hit the opposite end of the handle on a stable surface. It is best if it is a massive wooden block.
After making sure that the hammer head is in place, we remove the squeezed out excess lithol with a rag and cut off the ends of the rubber on both sides of the hammer head with a sharp knife, so to speak, flush.
Then carefully cover the joint between the mounting hole of the hammer and the handle with glue (PVA, “Moment” or something similar). We do this, on the one hand, in order to strengthen the connection, but, mainly, to ensure that moisture does not penetrate into the connection between the hammer head and the handle. After all, water, once in an unprotected gap, can over time cause rotting of the wood and oxidation of the metal, which will inevitably lead to weakening of the fastening and failure of the tool.
What else is the advantage of fitting the handle into the head of the hammer this way? The presence of a rubber layer between the parts of the tool, as it were, isolates the handle from the head and the force of impact of the striker on another hard surface is damped and the hand does not experience all the energy of a hard and sharp contact.
All of the above can be repeated one to one, both with an ax and a sledgehammer. The glue, of course, may come off in places over time, so you will have to restore it. The handle can be burned using blowtorch or gas burner and then wipe thoroughly with a rag. This will give the handle a noble appearance and ease of use.
In custody
Grease of mineral origin, which includes litol, has a bad effect on rubber over time and it begins to deteriorate. It is better to replace it with thick soap jelly. It also makes the attachment easier, but after the water evaporates, it loses its sliding properties and further strengthens the connection.To seal joints, instead of PVA and other adhesives that harden and become brittle, it is preferable to use silicone sealant, which remains always flexible and less prone to cracking.
Since attaching a hammer, ax or sledgehammer with rubber requires considerable effort, the opposite end of the handle should be strengthened while attaching, by clasping it with a clamp and tightening it tightly. The clamp can be replaced with construction tape or vinyl insulating tape, tightly wrapping the handle in several layers.
Also, instead of rubber, you can use a tube made of galvanized sheet metal with a seam, which is put on the handle and inserted into the hole of the hammer. Next, as usual: a few blows and all the parts take their places, and very firmly and reliably.
When buildings break down and require restoration, you may need a repair hammer, which is a much more effective tool than your bare hands =).
But how can you make a repair hammer in The Forest?
To do this you will need the following set of resources:
- 1 stone
- 2 sticks
- 2 rags
- 10 pieces of resin
After crafting, you will be able to use the hammer for its intended purpose, for clearing bushes, as well as for collecting sticks from small trees. Unfortunately, the hammer does not cause damage to other players, so as a weapon it is absolutely useless in multiplayer and online play.
A short but informative video guide on crafting a hammer in Forest:
Use this tool wisely and you will always be on top.
Sledgehammer handles are designed, as the name suggests, for sledgehammers. You can buy a handle for a sledgehammer at a price of 19 rubles 60 kopecks. Both small and large sledgehammer handles are available. These handles are universal and will fit any sledgehammer.
Hammer handles are intended for completing hammers without handles, or for replacing damaged handles. At any construction site included hand tools Spare hammer handles are a must. Since replacing the handle is much cheaper than buying a new hammer. You can buy a hammer handle for a price starting from RUB 11.30. Large and small hammer handles are always available. They can be purchased both retail and wholesale - for terms of purchase, please contact the company’s managers.
Buy axes
Ax handles are needed for completing and replacing ax handles for axes. You can buy an ax handle from 39 rubles. Prices for ax handles are large from 42.7 rubles.
How to choose a hammer - tips and instructions for selecting a quality tool + 51 photos
Buying spare ax handles is much cheaper than buying a new axe.
Shovel cuttings
Good shovel active use lasts for several years, which cannot be said about shovel handles, especially when used by unskilled labor. At any construction site and on a farm where shovels are actively used, it is imperative to have a supply of cuttings for shovels. You can buy a shovel handle for 21.2 rubles. Low prices Shovel cuttings help save company resources.
Study of the design of a mechanic's hammer. Study of the dependence of the hammer impact force on the level of gravity of the working part and the movement of the tool. Making an impact component from fiberglass or wood. Features of cleaning and testing the finished product.
Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.
Posted on http:// www. allbest. ru/
Branch of the federal state budgetary educational institution higher education« Siberian State University ways and communications" in Novoaltaisk
on the topic: “DIY WORKSHOP HAMMER”
In the discipline “Mastering primary professional skills”
Performed:
Nikolenko V.R.
Teacher:
Volovitsky S.M.
Novoaltaysk 2017
It is the last of these, the plumber’s hammer with a round striker, that is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to prolong, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the desired point, and assisting another tool - a chisel, chisel, punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows for a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A plumber's hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, and shape metal tubes.
Construction of a plumber's hammer
A plumber's hammer differs from a regular hammer in that it has two different strikers in its design - a flat one, which is intended for driving nails, and a tapered end, which is convenient for breaking various objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down or oblique surface of the striker, without hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square striker is cheaper, so this variety is widely used in locksmith practice for light work. And hammers with a round striker have one advantage, which is that the striking part significantly outweighs the rear, which ensures greater accuracy and impact force. metalworking hammer fiberglass stripping
The force of impact with a plumber's hammer depends on the level of gravity of the working part and the movement of the tool. This speed is regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element is regulated by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The striking part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. The handles are predominantly made of hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) and are at least 250 millimeters long for hammers. Bench hammers weigh 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Bench hammers (Table.
1) are produced with round (Fig. 1a) and square strikers.
Hammer production flow chart:
1. File surfaces I, II, III, IV with brute and personal files.
2 Cover with copper sulfate solution.
3 Completely mark the workpiece, see below and Figure 2.
How to make a hammer in The Forest?
Make a complete marking of the workpiece: using a scriber and a ruler, mark the center line on the edge.
6 Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm to a diameter of 12 or 15 mm.
7 File the final side of the VI striker with a personal file along the radius R.
8 Put a stamp
9 Harden the hammer, heat it in the oven to a light cherry-red color, take it in the middle with pliers and with quick movements, alternately cool the head and toe in water to a length of 30 mm.
10 Clean the hammer with abrasive sandpaper; Polish the surfaces of the striker and toe.
11 Hammer test, tested with three blows on unhardened steel.
Posted on Allbest.ru
Making a women's jacket in a business style
Selecting materials and creating sketches of a jacket model lined with cotton jacquard fabric. Development of a model design of the product. Production of drawings of working model templates. Lay out the patterns on the fabric. Assessment of the level of efficiency of the finished product.
course work, added 05/14/2012
Manufacturing of broaching tools
Design analysis and technical requirements broaching tool. Selection of product material and characteristics of its properties. The choice of method for obtaining the workpiece and its technical and economic basis. Purpose of technological schemes for surface treatment.
thesis, added 01/08/2012
Plumbing Basics
Organization of a mechanic's workplace. Parallel fixed vice. Arrangement of tools on the desktop. Measurement and classification of measuring instruments, their selection depending on the product and tolerances.
Purpose of marking depending on production.
practice report, added 12/30/2013
Determination of impact strength
Methods for preparing a mechanical impact driver and templates for installing a sample. Determination of impact strength using tables. Curvature of samples depending on the viscosity of steel during impact testing. Carrying out impact strength testing.
laboratory work, added 01/12/2010
Making a table from solid wood
Analysis of the manufacturing process coffee table from solid wood. Studying the requirements when working on surface thicknessers and jointing machines. Drying wood, processing finishing blanks, cutting boards, gluing blanks, assembling the product.
test, added 01/17/2015
Development of the design of a new model of women's suit for mass production
Selection of materials for designing a model of a women's suit. Development of primary patterns, cutting and sample production. Justification of methods technological processing products. Development working documentation. Calculation of the cost of the product.
thesis, added 12/20/2015
Influence of impact strength values and the proportion of fibrous component on the operating temperature of the material
Graph of changes in impact strength versus test temperature. Comparison of the characteristics of 40ХН steel under simple and complex conditions. Maintaining the share of the fibrous component, reducing the brittleness temperature and increasing the operational reliability of 40ХН steel.
article, added 04/30/2016
Making a faux fur product
Development of the design of a women's fur coat made of faux fur.
Study of the properties and varieties of fur materials. Methodology for laying out and cutting out material. Development and practical testing of production technology for the product under study.
course work, added 12/04/2010
Development of a technological process for manufacturing the product “Trolley for gas cylinders»
Purpose of the “Trolley for gas cylinders” design, sketch and specification. Welding equipment and materials. Technological process manufacturing the product. Calculation of costs for the manufacture of trolleys, price planning. Occupational safety and health.
test, added 12/06/2013
Automation of abrasive cleaning device
Modular programmable controllers for solving automation problems of medium complexity. Modernization of automatic machine control on the abrasive cleaning device of the large-section workshop of OJSC EVRAZ NTMK. Description of the kinematic scheme.
course work, added 10/16/2013
Hammer drawing
Drawing of a hammer that is used in household to perform all kinds of work.
The hammer consists of three components:
01. Wooden handle. The material for making the handle is 1st grade wood (GOST 2695-83) without knots, cracks, rot, sprouts and wormholes (its moisture content is more than twelve percent) or premium birch.
02. Metal baize. The baek is made by casting and forging.
Making a hammer with your own hands
Manufacturing material – steel 45; 45L; 40X; 50; U7; 60; U8; 50L. Done inside the bike through hole with conical surfaces from the center, which allows you to securely fasten the baize to a wooden handle using a wedge.
03. Metal wedge. It is made of a metal plate in the form of a wedge.
The metal baize has two working surfaces.
One is flat, the other is narrowing, each of which is applied and used for its own purposes.
Absolutely not everyone modern man will be able to place the hammer on the handle. It would seem simple, but when performing such work, most home craftsmen encounter some problems. This is due to the fact that in order to maintain tools in good condition, it is necessary to regularly deal with them and understand the principle of their structure.
Today on construction market There are hammers whose handles are made of metal or synthetic materials and, accordingly, there is no need to plant it. However, along with modern tools, the use of traditional hammers with a wooden handle is often practiced.
Why is it necessary to attach the handle?
The popularity of wooden handles is due not only to their cheapness. The tree is lightweight material, and for hammers this is extremely important parameter. The handle should be light in weight, and his head should be weighty. This is necessary to increase the impact force. Using homemade wooden holders, a person has the opportunity to adjust the tool depending on his anthropometric characteristics, taking into account the thickness of the handle, its length and other dimensions.
For normal operation tools must be kept in perfect order. This is especially necessary if you have to use tools quite often. To drive several nails a couple of times a year, you can use a bad hammer with a dry handle. However, if the hammer is the most necessary tool to work, it must be maintained in excellent condition. If the instrument is not in proper condition, then you risk not only injuring yourself, but also causing harm to others if its striking part comes off.
It is important to note that on loose tools this happens quite often, not only due to wear of the material, but also due to improper seating of the striking part on the holder. In addition, the wood used as a handle is of particular importance.
What wood material is used for the hammer handle?
First of all, it is necessary to exclude the type of wood that easily splits and cracks. These include spruce, pine, aspen, alder, etc. At the same time, it is recommended to use hornbeam, maple, rowan, dogwood, ash, oak, beech or birch as a handle for metalworking steel hammers.
Before turning wood the material must be pre-dried, since the hammer must be placed exclusively on dry wood.
This is due to the fact that during the drying process, any material decreases in size, water evaporates and its volume decreases. If you use an insufficiently dried handle when seating the hammer, then over time it will dry out, constantly wobble and fall off.
Video “How to make a hammer that doesn’t fall off”
Choosing a Hammer Handle Shape
According to GOST, 3 forms are used to make a hammer holder. However, the master can create other ergonomically convenient shapes of handles at his discretion. This is often practiced when self-production handles, but correctly, one of the GOST variants is taken as a basis.
When making holders, it is important to take into account the fact that the size of the workpiece must be longer than what is needed in the end. The maximum margin is about 5 cm. Mainly, the handle should taper towards the end that faces the striking part of the instrument.
The process of attaching a handle to a hammer
Often the hammer head opening size at the top and bottom entry is slightly wider than in the middle. Thus, the dimensions of the blank for the handle in the thin end part must correspond to the dimensions of the holes in the middle of the striking part of the tool. It is imperative to check that the hole for the handle of the striker is well made with the tool. You can see how this was done in the photo.
It shows the head of an old hammer, which requires preliminary processing. Without this work, it will be impossible to install the handle. Paying attention to the picture, we can see that the casting of the striker was done rather poorly, there are large deposits of metal and unevenness, each entrance to the holes on both sides differs by 6-8 mm from the middle of the striker.
To correct all defects and irregularities, it is necessary to process the internal and outside hammer head using a file. Then you need to insert the thin end of the handle into the bottom hole of the hammer to adjust all the dimensions correctly. The tip of the handle should be flush with the opposite side of the firing pin. If the handle is thicker than the corresponding holes, then it must be sanded In the way that the element was inserted into the hole of the hammer with a certain interference.
Due to the fact that at the end of the handle we achieve a flat cone, then with more deep dive the head of the hammer will be pulled tighter. It is worth noting that during this process it is important to take into account that the firing pin on the handle is not distorted, but is installed at a right angle.
To hammer the handle into the hole of the striker, it is necessary to hit it with the back side in a vertical position on an anvil, workbench tabletop, etc.
Due to its weight, the striking part of the hammer will slowly press against the expanding cone of the handle under the influence of its weight. At the same time, hammer with hammers or hard objects back side in the handle is strictly not recommended, as this will lead to its splitting. This method can only be used when mounting a non-metallic striking part (wooden or plastic), for example, for a mallet.
After the head of the hammer is firmly seated and movement of the handle in the striking part is no longer observed, it is necessary to saw off the protruding part using hacksaw blade, having first retreated half a centimeter above the impact heads. This is why it is necessary to use a longer workpiece.
Wedging the hammer handle
Often, purchased hammers have incorrectly driven wedges. Basically, a metal plate is hammered into the center of the longitudinal axes at the end of the handle. Because of this, over a short period of time, the handle becomes loose and loose in the firing pin hole. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a notch on the back of the handle, the depth of which will be about 0.5 cm. To do this, you can use a narrow chisel. The notch must be made so that it is located not along, but across the entire length of the end. If done incorrectly, the handle may split during the process of driving the wedge. It is important that the wedges fit tightly into the handle, slowly pushing the wood layer apart.
For wedges, it is recommended to remove the same type of wood from which the handle itself is made. The dimensions of the Wedge are about 2-3 mm in thickness and width and about 1.5 cm, it all depends on the size of the hammer. In this case, the wedge should not be very long, a maximum of about 4-5 cm, otherwise it will simply break during the process of driving it into the handle. The front part of the wedge must be sharpened under obtuse angle. Before driving the wedge, it must be lubricated. It is recommended to use as a lubricant silicone sealant. Thanks to this substance, it will not only be easily immersed in the wood, but will also be securely fixed in the handle.
After the client has been hammered, the protruding end of the handle must be sawed off again In the way that the protrusion of the hammer head was no more than 2-3 mm.
If you use dry wood for the handle, it will be enough to drive one wedge, but if the material is softer, then it is recommended to drive a second, but this time metal wedge. Its width and thickness should be the same as that of wood, but the length should not exceed 2 cm.
The wedges are driven completely flush with the back of the handle. After all the basic work has been completed, it is necessary to finally process the handle using large and small views sandpaper. After this, the handle of the instrument is impregnated with drying oil and varnished. There is no need to use paint for coating.
The method described above for attaching a handle to a hammer is quite reliable. There is nothing complicated here. Having made the attachment according to all the rules, you will forget about hammering nails into the handle and screwing in self-tapping screws, which is often practiced by many craftsmen to avoid the handle dangling during work.
Video “How to properly attach a hammer”
