Learn how to make 3d floors. Coating with protective varnish

Stunning three-dimensional paintings on the floor, which have gained immense popularity around the world, appeared thanks to the development of 3D self-leveling floor technology. You can decorate the floors in an unusual style apartment with the help of specialists, but not everyone can afford such expenses, since the wages of qualified craftsmen should be added to the prices of materials and tools. The question of how to make 3D floors with your own hands worries many adherents of self-repair of their homes, and professionals have begun to train those who wish with the help of detailed lessons in which they willingly share their secrets of craftsmanship.

It is quite difficult to achieve the desired effect: you need to buy building mixtures according to the list, Decoration Materials and tools, choose a three-dimensional drawing or make it, process it in a graphics editor and print a photo, carefully study each stage of work, see how experts make 3D floors with their own hands (video).

Step-by-step instructions for making self-leveling 3D floors from a to z with drawings and a video lesson will help beginners complete all the steps without any problems.

Tools and materials for self-leveling floor 3D

When installing self-leveling floor, you will need:

wide spatula;
rule;
needle roller;
ordinary roller;
wide brush;
grinder or grinder with a disc with a diameter of 18 cm;
sand;
cement;
water;
construction mixer;
perforator;
respirator;
gloves;
protective glasses;
paint shoes (shoes with spikes);
construction laser level;
water level;
primer;
wallpaper knife;
drill with a nozzle;
containers for mixing the composition;
two-component polymer composition;
photo or drawing in 3D format on vinyl backing;
colorless varnish;
industrial vacuum cleaner.

What is a self-leveling floor and how to make it

Self-leveling floors are seamless floor coverings made of polymer compounds - cement-acrylic, polyurethane, methymethacrylate, epoxy. Filling technology consists of several stages.

Stage one - preparing the foundation

How to make a self-leveling floor? First you need to prepare the base for it:

remove all furniture, remove skirting boards, doors with boxes, dismantle the old floor covering to the screed, remove dust and debris;
lay in rooms with high humidity;
on top of the waterproofing layer, make a concrete screed or cover the surface with a mixture of cement and sand;
completely dry base to process grinder or Bulgarian;
remove notches and irregularities with a perforator;
fill cracks with a mixture of cement and sand;
check the horizontalness of the screed surface with a rule or a laser level;
after drying, thoroughly clean the room - it is advisable to use construction vacuum cleaner. Particular attention should be paid oily spots, which must be removed with a solvent and acetone.

You can proceed to further work on the design of the self-leveling floor with your own hands only after complete drying. concrete screed which can take up to 30 days.

Stage two - primer

For high-quality adhesion of the polymer bulk coating to the base, it is necessary to cover the surface of the screed in two layers:

pour the primer and evenly distribute it over the entire surface with a spatula, roller or brush, leaving no gaps at the joints of the floor with the walls;
apply the second layer of primer when the first one dries, and smooth it thoroughly;
leave for at least 24 hours for the last coat of primer to dry.

Stage three - pouring the base layer

At this stage of the installation of the self-leveling floor, you must perform the following steps:

Prepare the polymer composition for the base layer by mixing the components with the solvent in a container in a ratio of 2:1. It is necessary to use a construction mixer, since manually mixing the composition to a homogeneous consistency is almost impossible due to the many small lumps and the rapid solidification of the polymer.

Important! You can not immediately mix the composition in one large portion, as it will harden and become unusable. It is better to cook in small batches alternately.

Pour the ready mix for the self-leveling floor onto the base, quickly and very carefully distribute a thin even layer over the surface with a spiked roller. Make sure there are no bubbles.

Advice. In a large room, the self-leveling floor should be poured in strips, starting from the corner opposite the entrance. Smooth the borders with a wide spatula. Ensure that there are no overlaps during pouring. We must try to spend no more than 10 minutes processing each strip.

Stage four - installation of a 3D image

When the base layer of the self-leveling floor hardens, you can start laying the decorative layer:

dilute the polymer composition with a solvent and apply a thin layer on a dry surface;
place a pre-prepared drawing or photo on a vinyl basis on the treated surface, align the edges, which should protrude beyond the perimeter of the base and lie on the walls;
press the image element to the self-leveling floor with a dry roller and, starting from the center of the room, roll it out over the surface so that there are no air bubbles between the base and decorative layers, which will subsequently lead to cracking of the decorative layer;
when the decorative layer sticks to the base layer, carefully cut off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife;
Carefully clean the treated surface from dust and grout residues.

Stage four - finishing the self-leveling floor

The last step in the design of the 3D self-leveling floor is the application of a finishing layer, which will help emphasize the effect of a three-dimensional image and keep the coating from scratches, dents, and deformation for a long time. To fully comply with the technology will require:

using a construction mixer, mix a transparent polymer composition with a solvent in the same proportion that was when connecting the components of the base layer of the self-leveling floor;
pour the composition and carefully spread it over the surface with a roller so that the layer thickness does not exceed 0.3 mm;
the polymerization process will take about 30 minutes, after which it is necessary to cover the self-leveling floor twice with a colorless varnish.

Not worth it immediately after completion finishing actively use the room, drag furniture there and put it on the newly made self-leveling floor. It is necessary to wait until all layers dry evenly, the polymerization processes will end, which depends on the temperature and humidity of the air, season, weather. If you managed to make 3d self-leveling floors in the apartment with your own hands in all rooms, you will have to ask to live for one or two weeks with relatives, friends or go to the country. It is better to make a self-leveling floor in stages - first in one room, then in another, and so on.

Important! At each stage of work with a bulk coating, a respirator, gloves and goggles should not be neglected, since dispersed dust and vapors of polymer compounds settle on the skin of the mucous membrane of the nose and mouth, get into the eyes and throat, causing skin irritation, a feeling of sand in the eyes, runny nose, cough.

Cost of work

The price of a self-leveling floor with a 3D image in Moscow ranges from 5,000 to 7,000 rubles. for 1 m2, in St. Petersburg from 4,500 to 6,500 rubles. for 1 m2. This cost, as a rule, includes material and payment for work, and depends on the footage of the room in which the self-leveling floor is made: the larger it is, the lower the price.

To finally understand how to make self-leveling 3D floors with your own hands, the video presented on the site will help.

Floor coverings with 3d effect are increasingly being used in the interior design of houses and apartments. 3D floors are valued not only for their decorative effect, but also for their high reliability and durability, which other types of floors do not possess. Of course, the cost of such a coating is much higher than a laminate or tile, and the pouring technology is quite complicated. And yet, if desired, anyone who has at least a little construction experience can make 3d floors with their own hands.

Before starting work, you should study the process of pouring the floor well, familiarize yourself with the numerous nuances, and select an image. First of all, you need to know what such a coating is. Self-leveling decorative floor consists of three layers: the base layer, the layer with the image and the finish layer. Very often, the finish layer is additionally coated with a special colorless varnish, then no mechanical effects will leave marks on the coating.

For the manufacture of the base and finish layers, a two-component polymer mixture is used, consisting of a hardener and transparent base. When mixing the polymer, it is very important to keep the proportions, otherwise the mixture will turn out either too liquid or too viscous. In both cases, the quality of the fill will be reduced, which will adversely affect the strength and durability of the floor.

The decorative layer may consist of a banner fabric, self-adhesive vinyl film, resistant acrylic paint and various small elements - pebbles, shells, coins, pieces of wood. When using small decor, you will additionally need polymer clay or gypsum for grouting, since voids are necessarily formed between the elements. The finished drawing on film or fabric from the company will cost the most, because it is the printing of the image that increases the cost of the self-leveling floor. The use of natural materials will significantly reduce the cost of the process, but it will require much more time for laying. If you have enough time and patience, this option is optimal. You can draw a picture yourself or hire an artist, as well as use ready-made stencils and stickers.

How to make and print a picture

If you decide to make a 3D floor with photo printing, you can try to select and process the picture yourself. This will take some time, but it will save a lot of money on repairs. For work, you will definitely need a graphics program (Photoshop) and a camera.

Step 1. Selecting a picture

A variety of images are suitable for a 3D floor: flowers in the grass, sea waves or sand on the beach, abstractions, leaves, stones, ornaments. It is important to choose a picture that best matches the interior, pleasing to the eye, calm colors. You should not choose aggressive or creepy images, pictures with whirlpools, abysses, too contrasting drawings. The photo you like should have a high resolution - at least 300 dpi.

Step 2. Taking a picture of the room

You need to take a picture of the floor of the room where the filling will be done. To do this, it is recommended to become so that the entire area falls into the lens; It is best to shoot from the doorway. The photograph must also be sufficiently clear, without light spots and blackouts.

Step 3. Processing photos on a computer

After loading a photo of the room into a graphics program, overlay the selected picture on top. Carefully align the borders of the images, fix and remove everything superfluous with the help of the program so that only the floor with the picture remains. As a result, the image will be expanded at the bottom and narrowed at the top. Align the borders of the picture into a rectangle, edit the clarity of the picture and copy the picture to a USB flash drive.

Step 4. Printing the picture on the fabric

To transfer the picture to the fabric of the desired size, you need to contact any company engaged in outdoor printing. The cost of their services is much lower than the finished canvas for decorative flooring. Order first black and white image desired dimensions on plain paper. Spread the paper on the floor and check how realistic the picture turned out. If everything is correct, you can order color photo printing on banner fabric.

Do-it-yourself 3d floor laying technology

After the drawing is printed, you can begin preparing for pouring the floor. Please note that the whole process will take a lot of time, and you will not be able to use the premises for at least three weeks.

First, prepare everything you need for work:

Step 1. Surface preparation

The old floor is dismantled to the screed, debris and dust are removed. Carefully inspect the surface and seal all detected defects with cement mortar. After the solution dries, it is recommended to grind the base to eliminate all roughness and small irregularities. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the surface, because even a slight slope will complicate the pouring of the polymer and increase its consumption. Finally, the screed must be thoroughly vacuumed.

Step 2. Applying a primer

Before applying the base coat, the substrate should be coated with two coats of primer. It is poured onto the floor and stretched over the entire surface with an ordinary roller or a wide brush (if the room small size). The primer should be distributed in a continuous even layer, well filling the joints between the floor and walls. The second layer is applied no earlier than the first one dries, after which the base is left for a day.

Step 3 Filling the Bottom Layer

The components for the base layer are poured into a container and mixed with a construction mixer or powerful drill with nozzle. It will not work to prepare a high-quality solution manually: firstly, many small lumps are formed that are difficult to break, and secondly, it will take too long to mix, and the polymer will begin to solidify. The finished mixture has a uniform structure and color, flows smoothly from the nozzle.

The polymer solution is poured onto the base in the corner farthest from the doors and rolled out over the surface with a spiked roller. If the area is too large, the floor should be poured in strips, carefully smoothing the borders of the strips with a wide spatula. Since the working composition hardens quickly, the pouring of adjacent areas should be completed within 10 minutes. During the rolling of the mixture, it is necessary to ensure that the layer is as uniform as possible and that no air bubbles remain inside.

Step 4. Laying the decorative layer

To glue the canvas, take the same polymer composition as for the bottom layer, dilute it twice with an organic solvent and apply a thin layer on the floor. Next, take the canvas with the image, straighten it on the working surface, align the edges. With a dry roller, press the fabric to the base and carefully roll it out, starting from the center of the room. It is very important to squeeze out all the air from under the canvas, otherwise bulges form on the coating, which can crack over time. The edges of the material should protrude slightly beyond the perimeter of the floor and go onto the walls; they are carefully cut after fixing the decorative layer.

The laying of the decorative layer must be done carefully to prevent the appearance of bubbles under the banner.

If small prints are used instead of photo printing decorative elements, you first need to consider their location on the surface. The easiest way is to lay the material in a chaotic manner, placing the elements close to each other. All of them should have the same thickness and not rise too much above the base. The floor area is primed with a diluted polymer composition, after which they begin to lay out the decor. This process requires great perseverance, accuracy and patience, otherwise beautiful coverage will not work. When the whole area is filled, the voids are overwritten polymer clay and leave to dry.

Step 5. Applying the finishing layer

A transparent polymer for finishing pouring is mixed in exactly the same way as the base composition. The surface is pre-cleaned from the remnants of grout and dust, the mixture is poured out, rolled out with a roller. In order for the three-dimensional effect to be more pronounced, the transparent layer should have a thickness of 3-4 mm. Half an hour after application, polymerization occurs, and the surface can be coated with a protective varnish. The floor will be ready for use when it is completely dry. upper layer, before that, any load on the coating should be excluded.

The nautical theme is very popular and suitable for any room.

Video - DIY 3d floors

This article is addressed to those home craftsmen who want to try to pour polymer floors with a pattern, or, as they are often called colloquially, do-it-yourself 3D floors. This technology is a relative newcomer to construction and repair practice, but it is rapidly gaining popularity and is in growing demand.

The desire of a certain part of the apartment owners to give the premises of their dwelling absolutely unique the view forces them to look for completely unexpected solutions. The range of parquet, laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles offered in flooring stores cannot satisfy them, and then polymer floors with an optical three-dimensional effect come to the rescue.

Such a coating is usually carried out by a team of craftsmen with the appropriate qualifications, since the process of phased pouring is quite complicated and replete with nuances. And is it possible to do it yourself?

It should be noted right away that specific features such a filling, the need for extreme accuracy and scrupulous, to the smallest detail, following all technological recommendations, no one will undertake to guarantee success at the first experience. Any mistake can become "fatal", as fast-curing compositions are used, and it is extremely difficult to eliminate the consequences of an error. Therefore, before making a final decision and running to the store for materials, carefully read this publication in order to realistically assess your strengths and abilities. Perhaps someone will understand that it is more expedient to turn to professionals.

5 best epoxy coatings for self-leveling floors

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1			⭐ 100 / 100
#2			⭐ 99 / 100
#3			⭐ 98 / 100
#4			⭐ 97 / 100
#5			⭐ 96 / 100

What is 3D-floors and their main advantages

A 3D floor is a coating with a durable transparent polymer top layer a few millimeters thick, under which graphic images of varying degrees of complexity or material objects are placed. Taken together, this design has a spatial optical effect that completely transforms the interior of the room.

Bold experiments on this designer decoration floor coverings began to be carried out in the West several decades ago, mainly in large public institutions - supermarkets, concert halls, exhibition areas, etc. Over time, these technologies "migrated" to residential buildings - similar floors began to decorate kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and then living rooms.

What are the advantages of such floors:

First of all, of course, it is worth noting the decorative qualities. There is always the opportunity to perform perfectly exclusive design premises.
No less important are the operational qualities of such a coating. It, when properly performed, has a pronounced resistance to abrasion and impact, which determines the durability of the floors.
A high-quality coating is chemically inert and is not afraid of exposure to aggressive chemicals from among all those that can be used in everyday life.
Such polymer coating absolutely harmless from the point of view of ecology, and can not cause any harm to human health or pets.
The polymer layer completely “seals” the concrete, while preventing dust formation and waterproofing the base.
Another important quality is that most of the compounds used to create 3 D floors in residential premises belong to group G1 - they absolutely non-flammable.
Caring for such a coating is not difficult - a periodic light wet cleaning because the floor does not absorb dirt and dust.

The disadvantages include the complexity of the installation technology of such a coating, a rather high price for it. And, of course, the material is not natural, and definitely loses to the same wood in terms of "natural" warmth.

An important issue is the choice of graphics for 3D- gender

How is it created decorative effect, or, in other words, that can be used as graphical objects that create volumetric image.

One of the options - on a concrete base or underlying layer are performed using cutting tools or, conversely, by applying mortars, embossed inscriptions, textures or primitive drawings. After pouring a transparent coating, a three-dimensional effect will appear. This approach is appropriate if the room is designed from the standpoint of minimalism, for example, in the loft style.
An interesting effect is given by small objects laid out on the floor and filled with a transparent layer. So, you can use beautiful sea pebbles, shells, coins and even dry tree leaves.

Sometimes, in the presence of artistic talents, on the underlying layer acrylic paints drawing is applied. It can, for example, be screen printing.

More complex options based on technique three-dimensional painting, are available, of course, exclusively to professional artists. Such work is very costly. big money Therefore, they resort to them extremely rarely and only very wealthy homeowners.

In other words, a drawing is a drawing of strife, and someone will like the simplest patterns or images made independently or even together with a child. The memory of such children's creativity will remain for many years.

Most often they resort to placing a selected layer under a transparent layer. graphic image, executed by a special technology in a typographical way. It is impossible to make it on your own without special expensive equipment, so you will have to turn to the services of printing houses or companies specializing in outdoor advertising.

As a rule, such companies will always be happy to offer a considerable range ready-made solutions. However, it is quite possible to choose your own version - the number of images on the Internet is incalculable.

Drawing can be done on vinyl film (self-adhesive or not) or on banner fabric. Some caution should be observed here - for example, the manufacturer of self-leveling floors Elakor, the company TeoChem (the technology for pouring this particular floor will be discussed below) immediately warns that the use of banner fabric is not allowed. You should clarify in advance the compatibility of the graphic object with the components of the floor.

Video: Imaging materials for 3D floors

You should never rush to make a decision on the choice of a particular pattern. It’s better to look at dozens, maybe hundreds of options in order to accurately determine one of them:

Firstly, the production of such a panel is very expensive, prices are calculated at least from 1000 rubles per square meter(and at high print quality, with a resolution of over 1400 p, it can be much higher).
Secondly, such a coating is usually done for decades. It is worth weighing carefully whether the drawing will introduce some kind of discomfort after the first feeling of novelty passes. The desire to surprise guests is understandable, but friends will admire and leave, and you will have to live with it for many years. In addition, some unusual, "vintage" plot of the picture today it seems original and “cool”, in a year or two it will begin to be perceived as ridiculous or frankly stupid, cause irritation and unnecessary experiences.
Thirdly, probably, a consensus should be reached in the opinions of all family members. An image that delights one may be negatively perceived by others. It happens that some patterns or “flashy” colors even lead to certain health disorders.
Fourthly, do not forget that the drawing must correspond to the general design style rooms. It is necessary to evaluate whether it will be easy to pick up to him suitable furniture, wall and ceiling decoration, other elements of the interior of the room.

It would seem beautiful. But will such a bright color in the room not “get bored”, and how to choose the situation for it?

As a field for bold experiments, only small, isolated rooms are acceptable, for example, a bathroom, an entrance hall, a bathroom, and to some extent a kitchen. Bright colors and large, detailed graphic objects are allowed here.

But in living rooms it is better to limit yourself to soft natural colors, an unobtrusive pattern. This is especially true for bedrooms and offices. In the children's room, if the child so desires, heroes of popular cartoons or fairy-tale characters will be appropriate. But everything should also be in moderation, without aggressive or frightening images.

When ordering a printed pattern of certain sizes, a small margin is necessarily taken into account - it will be easier to fit the canvas to the size of the room, trimming its edges as needed.

So, we decided on the type of decoration and a specific pattern. You can go to building materials, which will be used to fill the 3D floor.

What is required for filling 3D-sex do it yourself

Basic materials for work

Currently, there are many varieties of polymer flooring systems on sale that can be used, among other things, to create 3D compositions. They can be on epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate basis. From the point of view of ease of use, strength of the resulting coating, complete environmental friendliness, including during technological operations, preference should be given to epoxy compounds. Unlike, for example, polyurethane, they have no smell at all in their original or diluted state.

In principle, the technologies for pouring 3D floors with different systems are generally similar. So, schematically, the device of such a coating can be depicted as follows:

1 - concrete floor base. Self-leveling floor, in principle, can be arranged according to wooden base, but only if the condition of its parts (log and flooring) does not cause any concern, and there is a guarantee that it will be stable for many years.

2 - a primer layer that provides hardening, waterproofing of the base and increases adhesion to the compositions poured onto it.

3 - Sealing and base layer. Provides the required perfect evenness of the surface, full coverage concrete base.

5 - The front transparent layer, which, along with the functions of the top coat, will also serve as a kind of "lens" for the decorative composition.

It is not shown in the diagram, but one more layer is always recommended - this is a protective varnish coating that will prevent abrasive wear of the surface, prevent scratches or abrasionsthat can spoil the visual effect of the 3D floor.

Self-leveling floor systems from various manufacturers, of course, have their own pouring technologies. It will not be possible to tell about everyone, and in order not to finish with general phrases, the technology for arranging a 3D floor using the Elakor-ED system will be considered in stages.

The products of the Russian company "TheoChem" can be trusted

it — development of the Russian company "TheoChem". In terms of quality and durability of use, in any case, it is in no way inferior to the products of leading European manufacturers, and in terms of cost it looks much more attractive.

The table below shows the calculations of the required amount of materials and its cost. For greater convenience, the data are calculated for 10 square meters of area with a front layer thickness of 3 mm. If necessary, it is easy to carry out your own calculations, based on the actual area of \u200b\u200bthe room in which the floor will be poured.

Technological operation	Material used	price for 1 kg	consumption per 1 sq.m	required quantity	cost per 10 sq.m	cost per 1 sq. m
Padding concrete surface	Primer "Elakor-ED 2K/100	360	0.4	4	1440	144
Filling the underlying layer	Epoxy self-leveling floor "Elakor ED"	325	1.1	11	3575	357.5
	Purified quartz sand	8	3	30	240	24
Finishing layer	Epoxy self-leveling floor "Elakor ED" transparent	515	1.8	18	9270	927
Protective polyurethane coating	Varnish "Elakor-PU Lux" transparent glossy	505	0.2	2	1010	101
TOTAL:					15535	1553.5

It should be noted that the calculation was carried out for their maximum allowable thickness finishing layer - 3 mm. Here it is quite possible to save money by reducing it even to 2 mm. But to exceed the thickness - absolutely unnecessary occupation. Firstly, it will give a serious overrun of the material. Secondly, too thick a transparent layer leads to light refraction, distortion or deterioration in the quality of the picture. And thirdly, in terms of performance, it is not not there is absolutely no benefit to the set - the strength of the floors will not increase from this, it, subject to the technology, is already more than sufficient at 2 ÷ 3 mm.

The prices in the table are retail (up to 40 kg) as of the end of February 2015. The cost of materials is from the manufacturer, that is, in retail chains it may be slightly higher.

Please note that the cost of the self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" for the underlying layer and the finish coat varies significantly. With the similarity of the name and, in principle, equal operational qualities they have significant differences.

For the underlying layer, a two-component epoxy composition is used (main component A + hardener "B"), which is diluted in a ratio of 5:1. This also predetermines its commercial packaging: a 20 kg metal bucket + a 4 kg canister (in total 24 kg), or a 25 kg polypropylene bucket and a 5 kg canister with a hardener (total 30 kg).

This composition is opaque, and has a certain tint - from pure white to other shades from the catalog. It becomes possible to make a colored “substrate” for the drawing, which is especially important if the artistic composition is not planned for the entire floor area.

The front layer is made of an absolutely transparent Elakor-ED composition, and it is much more expensive. Nobody bothers to use it for the base layer - the quality will not suffer from this, but it will not look cost-effective. However, for some artistic compositions, this will be the only possible option.

The proportions of components "A" and "B" are different here - 2: 1. It goes on sale in containers at the rate of 10:6. Standard factory packaging: 8 kg metal pail + 4.8 kg canister (total 12.8 kg), or 16 kg pail with 9.6 kg hardener canister (25.6 kg).

To finish with the materials, we should also mention the epoxy putty " Elakor - ED, Putty 2K». It may be needed if the concrete base of the floor requires repair work - sealing cracks, sinks, potholes and etc.. it is also a two-component composition, which is prepared in a 5: 1 ratio.

The retail price of this material is about 275 rub/ kg, but it is difficult to determine the quantity in advance, since its consumption will directly depend on the quality of the concrete base.

In general, this repair material shows excellent qualities, is easy to apply, has high adhesion with primed surface and absolutely does not shrink during polymerization.

It is recommended to use purified quartz sand as a putty filler. So, for primary puttying, it is added at the rate of volume from 1:1 to 1:1.5, and for finishing - from 1:0.5 to 1:0.8.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Necessary tools and accessories

To get started, you will need to prepare certain tools and accessories:

For mixing two-composite compositions, a construction mixer or a drill with a power of at least 800 W is required. A prerequisite is the adjustment of the speed of the drill and the presence of a reverse function (rotation in the opposite direction). If a drill is used, then a mixing nozzle is needed for it. The best option- double-threaded screw part, made of metal strips. Nozzles whose blades are made of fine wire or round bar are not allowed.

To distribute and level the composition on the floor surface, it is most convenient to use a doctor blade, on which you can set the required gap.

Squeegee - handy tool for spreading the composition on the floor surface

According to the technology, the flooded floor must necessarily be rolled with a spiked roller.

Mandatory tool for pouring the floor - spiked roller

For priming the surface or applying thin layers of material, padding rollers with a pile height of about 12 ÷ 15 mm are required. For hard-to-reach places soft hair brushes are required. We take into account that when working with epoxy compounds, this tool becomes, as a rule, disposable.
For repair work, puttying, as well as for distributing the poured composition over the surface, it is necessary to prepare spatulas with a width of 120 to 600 mm.
To move on a freshly poured floor surface, paint shoes must be worn on shoes.

You will need a clean container for mixing the compositions and for soaking the tools after work is completed.
A powerful vacuum cleaner is needed to thoroughly clean the surface at the preparatory stage.
A hard plastic brush is required to carry out the quartz filling of the sealing layer.
Work clothes and means of protecting the skin and respiratory organs - gloves or mittens, a respirator or mask should be provided. It would be useful to hide your hair under a cap or bandana.
In the place where the mixing of the compositions will be carried out, it is necessary to cover the floor and walls with plastic wrap.

Stages of work

The work on the arrangement of the self-leveling 3D floor takes place in several successive stages.

Floor surface preparation

One of the key conditions is that the surface of the floor to be poured must be almost perfectly horizontal. Maximum differences are allowed no more than 1 mm per 1 linear meter. Of course, polymer compositions have the property of self-leveling, but if you imagine how much expensive material will be spent on such leveling, it becomes clear that it is cheaper to level the floor with a concrete screed.

All further work will be carried out only after its full maturation.

There are certain requirements for the strength and moisture content of the concrete pavement.

So, the brand of concrete should not be lower than M200.
The surface should gain the required strength - this is easy to check with a nail - it should leave only a slight scratch, but not cause crumbling.
Permissible floor humidity - no more than 4%. It is clear that there is no special device for measuring this indicator in household use. You can do the following: cover the surface with a sheet polyethylene film size 1 × 1 m, ensure a tight pressing of the edges and leave for a day. If after this time there are drops of condensate or even just perspiration on the film, work cannot be carried out.

In the room for work, it is necessary to create and maintain certain conditions:

The temperature of the concrete base is not lower than +5 and not higher than +25 degrees.
The temperature difference between the air and the concrete base at a height of half a meter from the floor is within - 4 degrees.
Relative humidity in the room - no more than 80%.
All applied compositions must be maintained in the temperature range from + 15 to +20 degrees.
There must be an inflow in the room fresh air, but a draft is strictly prohibited.

Work begins with a thorough cleaning of the floor from debris and dust. It is necessary to identify the weak points of concrete - where there are signs of crumbling, delamination, friability. Particular attention to stains that have impregnated the coating - bitumen, oil, paint residues. They should be cleaned or hollowed out to "healthy" concrete.

Small gaps, and it is best to cut a few (up to 5 mm wide) for further filling.

The guarantee of quality is a thorough cleaning of the base from dust and debris

Final cleaning must always be carried out using a powerful vacuum cleaner. Particular attention is paid to the removal of small particles and dust from recesses and crevices.

Surface priming and repair

During the pouring of the floor, you will have to repeatedly knead a variety of epoxy compounds. For this operation, it is necessary to provide a separate place outside the room where work being carried out. It is absolutely necessary to exclude the possibility of components falling on the floor surface. It is best if a separate worker takes care of this issue, who will prepare the compositions as needed.

When working with any epoxy compositions, it should be constantly remembered that they have a very limited period of use in the prepared liquid form. It must be indicated in the instructions, and, in addition, largely depends on the temperature in the room. Another nuance is that the prepared component composition loses its properties much faster, being in a mixing container - it is necessary to ensure its distribution over the surface as quickly as possible. In any case, only such an amount of the mixture is prepared that will be guaranteed to be produced within the next 30, last resort- 40 minutes.

According to the requirements of the technology, surface priming should be carried out no later than through 2 hours after the last dedusting.
The soil is diluted in the ratio of 2 parts "A" to 1 "B" in next sequence. The required amount of hardener "B" is added to the container with the base component "A" and mixed for average speed rotation 500 rpm. Be sure to alternate forward and reverse rotation.

After a completely homogeneous mixture is obtained, it is left for 3 minutes for the spontaneous release of air bubbles.
Then the composition is poured over the floor in the required amount (see table) and evenly distributed with a padding roller over the entire concrete surface. Particular attention is paid to the mandatory priming of all irregularities and cut cracks. For processing such hard-to-reach places, as well as corners, it is better to use a brush.
Ideally, you should get a uniform surface with a glossy sheen. In practice, it happens that there are areas with particularly strong absorption - in these places, the primer consumption should be slightly increased.
For normal polymerization, the soil requires about a day.

After the first coat of primer has set, it's time to move on to repair work if they are needed.

Epoxy putty is diluted in a ratio of 5:1, and when mass uniformity is achieved, the required amount of quartz sand is added in portions, without stopping the rotation of the mixer.
The resulting composition is filled with all areas requiring repair or alignment.
If the defects are not so significant, it makes no sense to buy a separate package of epoxy putty. You can use the composition of the self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED", diluting a small amount in the usual proportion and adding also 1 - 1.5 parts of quartz sand.
The repair composition also needs time for polymerization - about a day. Then you can eliminate small defectsby applying abrasive materials, such as sandpaper.

By hardening the putty and removing dust (with her available), carry out secondary priming of the surface. Work is carried out in exactly the same way, but with the obligatory light powdering of quartz sand along freshly smeared surfaces. As a result, after curing, a smooth, rough surface should be obtained.

After a day, you can proceed to the next stage.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Base layer fill

The very purpose of the underlying layer is to completely cover the entire concrete surface while simultaneously leveling it to the ideal, and creating a monolithic rigid base for placing a 3D floor.

In the descriptions of the technologies for pouring the base layer, one can find recommendations to lay fiberglass under it - this will give the surface the required solidity and rigidity. In the case under consideration, the material manufacturer advises to do without such a measure, and apply the quartz filling method.

To do this, the epoxy primer is first diluted again. It will no longer be absorbed into the surface, and it is evenly distributed in a small amount, so that no puddles are created.
After 15-20 minutes, the surface is backfilled with quartz sand. At the same time, they do not spare him and fall asleep in excess, at least one and a half - two kilograms per square meter. With the help of a spatula, it is distributed over the surface.
In this case, the primer needs about 15 ÷ 20 hours for polymerization.
Then, using a hard plastic brush, the remains of sand that have not been absorbed into the primer are removed, and the surface is cleaned of the remaining grains of sand with a vacuum cleaner.
Now it is necessary to dilute the bulk composition, which was purchased specifically for the base layer.

The technology of its mixing has some differences.

- To begin with, only the main component "A" is mixed thoroughly for 3 - 5 minutes, using forward and reverse rotation.

- Without interrupting mixing, pour in a thin stream required amount hardener.

- When mixing, special attention should be paid to places where it is difficult - in the corners near the bottom. At the same time, hard contact of the mixing head blades with the walls and bottom of the tank must not be allowed.

- After achieving complete homogeneity, the finished composition is left for 3 minutes to release air, and then immediately used. It is unacceptable to keep it in a bucket for more than 10 minutes.

Before pouring, it is necessary to put on paint shoes on shoes - this will make it possible to move around the freshly applied composition. In this case, the leg should be placed on the floor and rise vertically, without shuffling movements. In this case, the pits from the spikes will quickly and without a trace be tightened under the action of the surface tension force of the semi-liquid solution.
The finished epoxy composition is poured on the floor in accordance with the consumption rates and evenly distributed with a spatula. Particular care is needed in difficult areas, in places where walls, columns, niches, etc. fit to the floor.

Following the distribution, but no later than through 10 ÷ 15 minutes, it is necessary to roll the entire surface with a spiked roller. This procedure will additionally evenly distribute the composition over the surface and allow the remaining air bubbles to escape.

The filled base layer is left for a day. At the same time, you need to make sure that there are no drafts and that there is no possibility of dust, construction debris, water, etc. getting into the flooded area.

Decorating layer

This is one of the most difficult and crucial stages, which requires extreme accuracy, special cleanliness in execution. Work should be carried out only in clean soft shoes, and it would be even better if you put shoe covers on them so as not to leave accidental marks from the sole.

The printed film may have a self-adhesive layer with a protective paper backing. The main difficulty is to carefully lay the film on a flat floor surface and expel air “pockets” from under it. It is better to do this work togetherto prevent wrinkles or, even worse, sticking of the film in the folds - it can be hopelessly damaged.
Difficulties may arise if the drawing is made of several fragments that need to be joined together very carefully so that the junction line remains invisible.
The printed typographic drawing may not have an adhesive layer. In this case, it is recommended to dilute a small amount of a transparent epoxy finish and use it as a pour. To do this, it is applied in a very small amount to the surface, and then a film is glued to it.
A similar method is also used if small objects are used as an ornament - coins, shells, leaves, etc. A thin layer of epoxy will securely fix them in the right place on the surface.
If preference is given to your own drawing, then it is applied with acrylic paints, which then need to be given time to dry completely.
After the decorative layer is installed, it must be primed with a transparent epoxy compound, which is intended for final pouring. This measure is mandatory. The fact is that in order to work on pouring the finishing layer, you will have to put on paint shoes again, and their sharp spikes can damage the drawing or the laid out composition. Thus, it is necessary to eliminate such a threat with a primer layer.

Filling the finish layer

This layer will "seal" the floor pattern and create a kind of "lens" that enhances t redimensional image effect. It is clear that there are increased requirements for its quality. The ingress of dust or water on the uncured surface is unacceptable. Moreover, even a drop of sweat falling from the forehead can cause a local clouding of the surface, which will be noticeable visually.

The filling technology is in many ways similar to applying the base layer.

A transparent composition "Elakor-ED" is used, which is diluted in a ratio of 2: 1. The mixing technology has no features.
The initial distribution of the epoxy composition can be carried out with a wide spatula, but it is still better to use special tool- doctor blade, on which the required gap is set.
It should be remembered about the material consumption rates depending on the chosen thickness of the finishing layer. At the same time, you can’t be “greedy” - the property of the epoxy composition for self-leveling will be ensured if at least a kilogram is applied per square meter. And in the case when the temperature in the room is close to critical (about +5 degrees), the bulk composition is needed even more - about 1.8 kg. If we look again at the table, we will see that exactly this amount is necessary for a three-millimeter layer.
Do not forget about the needle roller - the entire surface should be rolled with it after 15 — 20 minutes after filling.
The polymerization of the final layer will take at least a day. However, in no case should you rush, and even walking on this surface in soft shoes is allowed only after 4 to 5 days. And we can talk about full readiness for mechanical operational loads in a week.

Video: one example of pouring a 3D floor

It is advisable to complete the work by applying a polyurethane varnish coating. It is absolutely transparent and will not spoil the optical effect.

Varnish "Elakor-PU Lux" is diluted in a ratio of 2:1 for 1 ÷ 2 minutes at a fairly high speed drill (about 1000 rpm). It takes more time for the air bubbles to escape - up to 10 minutes, but you can also use the varnish for a whole hour.
Working with polyurethane-based compounds may be accompanied by a sharp bad smell, which reinforces the importance of respiratory protection and providing access to fresh air, but without creating a draft.
For application, use a roller with a velor "fur coat" and a short pile, up to 4 ÷ 5 mm. Estimated consumption for one layer is 80 ÷ 100 ml per square meter of surface. The varnish usually spreads very well over the surface, leaving no drops or streaks.
The drying time of the first layer is about 8 ÷ 12 hours. Then you can proceed to applying the second layer. It is very important that more than a day should not elapse between the application of layers, otherwise their reliable contact with each other will not be ensured.
The movement of people in soft shoes is permissible three days after the final varnishing. The finished 3D floor can be fully loaded in a week.

So, the whole cycle of work on creating a 3D floor with your own hands will take at least two weeks. - extremely responsible, requiring increased accuracy and constant concentration of attention. Following the advice of an ancient proverb, one should think “seven times” before making the only correct decision about the possibility and expediency self-fulfillment a similar task.

At the end of the article - another video example of a professional performance of a 3D floor:

Video: 3D the floor is the work of professionals

After curing, the varnish forms a light-resistant coating resistant to ultraviolet radiation. The finish coat of two-component polyurethane varnish Lux does not turn yellow, is optically transparent, has high protective characteristics in terms of resistance to mechanical and chemical influences.

high resistance to the visible spectrum and ultraviolet radiation;
high adhesion to all building materials;
very high wear resistance: Taber abrasion only 5 mg ( standard parameters— CS-10, 1kg, 1000 cycles);
very high chemical resistance, also against acids (e.g. 50% nitric acid)4
high decorative properties, ease of cleaning.

layer-by-layer drying 4-6 hours (until stickiness is lost), but not more than 24 hours;
after application: after 48 hours - pedestrian loads; after 7 days - full mechanical load.

The epoxy varnish Epox spreads well and levels out on the surface, forming a perfectly smooth coating. After polymerization, it turns into a durable optically transparent coating. For use on screed floors decorative drawings and photographs, 3D pictures, decorative chips, logos, etc.

increased mechanical strength and chemical resistance;
no shrinkage cracks;
resistance to fungal infections;
high resistance to light radiation;
operating temperature – from -10°С to +60°С.

limited resistance to ultraviolet radiation (yellowing);
the surface exposed to chemical attack can be used after 5 days.

Thanks to minimized emissions, checking for the presence harmful substances and TÜV-controlled, this product is particularly suitable for all "sensitive" areas, such as rest rooms, hospitals, kindergartens, schools, etc. For matt sealing of hard and viscous internal polyurethane and epoxy coatings subjected to light loads in the residential and industrial sectors.

with minimized emissions;
checked for the content of harmful substances;
increases the scratch resistance of hard and viscous polyurethane and epoxy coatings;
good resistance to UV and chemicals;
reduces the light reflection of glossy coatings.

excess of time leads to a change in the degree of gloss, as well as to a decrease in strength and adhesion to the substrate;
if the material is unevenly applied, differences in the degree of gloss and streaks are inevitable, which are visible under the gliding light, especially for very dark color tones;
too high a layer thickness (> 200 g/m2) must be avoided, otherwise reaction bubbles appear in the coating film.

For finishing epoxy and polyurethane coatings, as well as concrete mosaic floors. Low and medium loads. For outdoor and indoor work. It is resistant to UV radiation.

low viscosity;
good spreadability;
the possibility of obtaining a matte decorative effect;
lightness and ease of maintenance of floors.

lowering the temperature and increasing the humidity of the air in the room slow down the curing process of the coating and contribute to the appearance of defects on the surface.

Epoxy wear-resistant coating "Transparent gloss" from the brand "Do the floor" is a two-component composition epoxy resins with fillers. It is intended for application on mineral surfaces (concrete, concrete tiles, stone, artificial stone, etc.), both horizontal and vertical.

has resistance to aggressive environments;
has a high degree of adhesion (maximum) - 1 point;
the resulting film is water and vapor impermeable.

excessive layer thicknesses should be avoided.

3D self-leveling floors are not only very spectacular and beautiful coated ones, by performing such a coating, you can provide a high-quality floor for many years, and with a high-quality selection of a pattern, even visually increase the m3 of the room. Self-leveling 3d floors are very much appreciated, because if the technology is followed, the design of the room turns out to be stunning and does not require additional carpeting.

self-leveling floor

The price of a self-leveling floor with a three-dimensional pattern is not cheap, but the end result is worth it, because the coating has a number of advantages over other analogues:

3D flooded floors serve up to 30 years and do not lose their attractiveness;
they can be cleaned with chemicals, the filler floor will not lose its gloss and brightness;
3D floors can be installed in any residential type premises;
floor 3d does not emit harmful substances into the air, it is considered environmentally friendly;
self-leveling floor 3d is fireproof, which increases the safety of the home.

Do-it-yourself 3D self-leveling floors are easy to do if you familiarize yourself with the technique of applying all layers in stages. The most difficult and expensive stage is the development and printing of a picture that is planned to be placed on the floor.

Choosing a pattern for the self-leveling floor 3D

The image is what distinguishes ordinary from 3 d, but it is he who complicates the entire technology of construction work.

Developing a pattern layout for 3D floors is not a cheap process, but you can try to prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself at least at a basic level with the Photoshop program. It will be just great if a more experienced friend helps at this stage. It is important to understand that the image must be large and with good quality, bright outlines. Otherwise, the floor will turn out grainy and ugly, and the money will simply go down the drain.

There are two ways to choose a picture - find it in Internet resources and take a photo of a place or object you like. To avoid graininess, the image must have a resolution of at least 300 dpi. No less responsibly you need to approach the choice of drawing. Worth considering overall design rooms and choose a drawing that is most suitable and emphasizes the beauty and overall idea.

Bulk floor. Picture

Photo of the room and installation of a drawing for a 3D floor

The selected image needs to be compared with the dimensions of the room, so you need to do a few simple steps. First you need to take a photograph of the room in which it is planned to lay self-leveling 3D floors. Photographs must be taken from the doorway. We load the picture into the program, where we put a drawing on the floor plane, it is worth carefully cutting off all the corners so that the drawing matches the shape of the room as much as possible.

Printing on paper and fabric for self-leveling floor

Canvas printing is best carried out in a company that deals with prints, for example, for outdoor advertising. Such a move will save money, since self-preparation of the canvas will be several times cheaper than ordering a ready-made picture from specialists.

To make sure that all the miscalculations were correct, it is better to pre-print the drawing on paper. The paper layout must be spread on the floor and all errors determined. After eliminating all the shortcomings, you can order a final print on the fabric.

Stages of laying the filler 3D floor

Do-it-yourself 3D self-leveling floors are easy to do if you follow the instructions and do not deviate from the laying technology.

It is important to understand that the smoother the surface on which the drawing will be applied, the better the self-leveling 3d floor will come out. It is also necessary to take into account that 3 weeks will be done, during this period it will be impossible to use the room.

Before you make a self-leveling floor, you need to stock up on the necessary equipment, for this you will need:

large capacity for the preparation of the emulsion;
rollers with which layers will be applied;
needle roller to remove air bubbles from the mixture;
paint shoes - special shoes with small spikes;
a vacuum cleaner;
putty;
finish coating;
fixing varnish;
protective clothing and a respirator.

Preparation of the floor surface for pouring 3D floor

In the room where the filler floor is planned, it is necessary to remove the previous coating up to the screed. After the old coating is removed, the surface must be carefully removed from dirt, lumps and small parts. For this, it is better to use a vacuum cleaner.

Preliminary preparation of the floor for pouring the self-leveling floor

If in the process of removing the old coating on the screed, small potholes and cracks form, then they must be repaired with a cement mortar. Otherwise, 3D self-leveling floors will have to be redone. After the cement has dried, the area is carefully rubbed and vacuumed again.

Applying a ground coat to the base

Before making a self-leveling floor, the base must be coated with a primer. The primer evens out all the imperfections of the floor. It is necessary to apply a primer in two layers with a roller, carefully smearing the joints between the wall and the floors. Primer consumption is approximately 1 kilogram per 3 square meters. Each layer must dry, it takes at least a day.

Application of the base layer of the self-leveling 3D floor

This stage is needed in the case when the selected pattern is not solid, but only some elements that will be located on a specific background. The base layer is the background of the filler floor, so the tone must be chosen no less carefully than the drawing itself.

It is necessary to mix the base layer in small portions, as it quickly cools, and only with the help of a special mixer (manually obtaining a homogeneous mixture is almost impossible). After applying the base coat, it must be rolled with a spiked roller to get rid of air bubbles. It takes at least a day to polymerize the base layer, but you need to pay attention to how long the instructions require for drying.

The dry surface is measured by the water level to avoid height differences. If errors are identified, then an additional layer of base will need to be applied to level the base. An uneven floor can significantly reduce its lifespan by up to three times.

Sticking a picture on the floor

Of all the technology, how self-leveling floors are made, gluing a pattern is considered the most difficult and crucial moment. Often, for drawing a picture, a banner fabric with thermal printing is used, the density of which is quite high and it is almost impossible to tear or deform such an image when applied.

The main rule in applying the image is to get rid of air bubbles. If in the process of work defects were found in the form of air, then this area must be redone.
The edges of the image should extend slightly beyond the floor and bend onto the walls, better later cut off the excess than trying to hide the joints.

Applying a 3D floor finish

In order for the 3D self-leveling floors to be poured correctly, and the properties of the finish coating to be high level it is necessary to observe a thickness of 3-4 mm, for this it takes about 4 kg of the mixture per 1 square meter of coating, but the amount of kg may vary depending on the selected manufacturer, because the density of the finish layer may differ. Therefore, before applying, you must read the instructions on the package and the advice of manufacturers.

This final step should be step-by-step and in no case should you rush. The mixture hardens within 15-40 minutes, so you need to act in a coordinated and organized manner.

First you need to calculate how much emulsion you need to prepare and proceed. Mixing should only be done with a mixer. The finished emulsion must be evenly distributed throughout the room, paying attention to the corners and joints with the wall. Walking on the flooded floor is possible only in paint shoes. It is important that particles of debris, hair or dust do not get on the top layer. After spreading, the surface must be carefully worked out with a spiked roller.

The finished room is protected from direct sunlight and left to dry, this will take up to 2 weeks.

After such simple procedures, a room with a flooded 3D floor will be ready.

Modern renovation is difficult to imagine without high-quality flooring. Especially when you want to bring something new and creative into the atmosphere. Therefore, it's time to think about how to make a 3 d floor with your own hands, and a video from step by step description work can be viewed online.

About the benefits

Thanks to innovative building materials and modern technologies you can independently make a filler floor, which is not only reliable and functional, but also attractive, extraordinary and appropriate to the style of interior design.

Among the features and advantages of 3 d floor it is worth noting:

attractiveness and originality;
the ability to transfer a huge amount of fantasies and ideas to the floor;
resistance 3 d floor to mechanical damage;
coating hygiene;
the ability to perform pouring technology on any basis;
resistance 3 d floor to moisture and chemicals;
ease of use;
opportunity to do everything by hand.

About diversity

The technology of pouring the floor 3 d allows you to make original cover, which will look nice in office space as well as in the living room.

Decorative bulk coatings can be decorated with any pattern, pattern, in any color scheme, which allows the owner of the premises to implement the most extraordinary, bold and diverse ideas.

For example:

Foundation pouring

In the living room, the floor can be decorated in the form of a photo of a flower meadow or a big city.
In the children's room, you can place your kid's favorite characters from cartoons or fairy tales on the 3d floor.
In the bedroom, it is recommended to decorate the floor with a famous painting, an unobtrusive pattern, etc.
A bath or toilet can be decorated with a fill with photos of dolphins, shells or other marine-themed elements.
The floor in the office space can be supplemented with a company logo or other brand name.

Today, pouring technologies offer an incredible number of design solutions with which you can create 3d floors in various options and without restrictions. After all modern materials provide an extensive range of colors and shades that do not limit the imagination.

Floor installation

If you decide to do the installation of 3d floors with your own hands, then, despite your confidence, you will have to repeatedly look at the photo, and also better video showing phased implementation fills.

The process consists of the following types of work:

Preliminary surface preparation.
Creating a base - pouring a polymer layer. How to do it yourself, you can watch the video on the Internet.
Sticker drawing or photo.
Covering an image with a transparent component.
The last stage is the application of a special wear-resistant and shock-resistant layer.

Innovative technologies

Compliance with all these steps allows you to create the effect of a 3-dimensional image. In this case, the depth of the 3d effect will depend on the height of the application of the last layer.

The design of the 3d floor is an exclusively individual creation that allows for a wide variety of experiments. For example, instead of a photo or drawing, you can use dried flowers and leaves, pebbles, multi-colored crystals, colored sand and other decorative elements.

Many experts argue that making 3d floors with your own hands is too difficult and almost impossible. Since the slightest non-compliance with the technology significantly reduces the period of operation of the coating.

It is for this reason that it is possible to independently perform a self-leveling 3-dimensional coating only if all the subtleties of installation and technology stages are observed.

Materials used

In order to do the installation of 3d floors with your own hands, you must use the following materials:

A polymer two-component mixture consisting of a hardener and a transparent base, which are mixed before use.
Decor elements - photos, drawings, various natural materials that will determine appearance floors and create the desired 3d effect.

Surface preparation

Solution preparation

This stage in the technology of creating 3 d self-leveling floors is to carry out the following actions:

dismantling of skirting boards and old flooring;
installation of waterproofing - this is important for rooms with high humidity;
leveling the surface using a concrete screed or sand-cement mortar;
surface grinding using grinder or grinders with a diamond wheel;
repairing cracks, chips, potholes and other defects with a cement mortar or epoxy-based compound.

After the surface becomes even and smooth, it is necessary to remove debris with fragments and remove dust using a vacuum cleaner. Humidity in the room should not exceed 50%.

Foundation priming

Distribution of a special substance

The concrete base must be treated with a primer so that the base layer of the self-leveling floor with a 3-dimensional image is better connected to it.

To apply the primer, spatulas, brushes or small-haired rollers should be used. The solution is applied in at least 2 layers.

Application of the polymer layer

People who make 3d floors with their own hands must know that the application of the polymer layer must begin no later than 20 hours after priming. As a base, a polymer layer is used, ideal for drawing a pattern on it.

Special compounds are applied to the floor screed. But first they are mixed with a solvent in a ratio of 2: 1 using a special mixer, since it is strictly forbidden to do this by hand.

The mixture must be prepared in small portions, since after 30 minutes the composition will harden. The agent is poured onto the surface, after which the base is carefully leveled with a special spiked roller and rule, removing all air bubbles.

drawing

This is a new seamless design floor

After waiting for the base base to dry, you can start decorating the surface. Today there are two ways to apply an image for 3 d self-leveling floors:

Drawing a pattern with acrylic paints. Only a person with certain skills in drawing can do this.
Pasting the finished image or photo.

The first method is quite effective and reliable, but relatively expensive. Since to create a picture you need to have expensive materials that are resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

The second option is more common. For this, drawings or photos suitable for the style of the interior are taken. They are processed in a graphics editor, their brightness and color are corrected, then they are stretched to right size and printed on heavy media.

The most popular options today are drawings on vinyl film or banner fabric with thermal printing. When laying the image on the base, you should look so that air bubbles do not get under the film.

Pouring a Resin Component

The polymer composition is poured directly onto the image with a layer of at least 3 mm. The composition is mixed in a clean bowl using a drill with a special nozzle. The solution is poured onto the floor in separate portions and leveled using a spiked roller. Rolling is done until the composition begins to thicken.

The last stage is the application of a protective layer.

Conclusion

Making self-leveling floors with a 3-dimensional image with your own hands is not so difficult and time-consuming as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to work carefully and observe all stages of the technological process, as well as use materials good quality. Self-installation of such a coating will save a lot, since the services of specialists are quite expensive.

Semyon Knyazev