Clematis in winter. Features of clematis care in the fall and preparation for winter

Clematis is a wonderful plant that will be an excellent decorative element for the garden. There are several types of this flower, each of which has a special appearance and properties. Liana is strewn with small flowers that can decorate an arched opening, a lattice surface, and can also sit well on one of the walls of the room. In this regard, a logical question arises: how to care for clematis in the fall? This is a fairly straightforward matter, however, it also has important aspects that must be taken into account. We will analyze in more detail how to maintain the health of our living decor element - clematis in winter periodwithout making any mistakes.

Clematis of the Viticella group, cultivar "Polish-Spirit"

Unique external signs can give the false impression that the plant requires a lot of effort to maintain. In fact, clematis vines are extremely unpretentious and are able to bloom for 20 years if simple maintenance rules are followed.

However, when growing, troubles can happen: freezing or disruption of the flowering process. To avoid these problems, the owner of the creeper just needs to devote a little time to studying the flower and how to properly care for it and prepare it for winter.

Note that those flowers that have lived in the wild are not prone to flowering problems. They also thrive in -12 ° C. These plants are extremely frost-hardy, and flowers begin to appear in mid-winter.

Variety of species

It is necessary to choose a living decoration for your site, starting from the climate in which you live. Some climatis species respond better to cold, while others require warmth and sun for normal growth. Let us examine which varieties are best suited for certain climatic conditions.

People who are accustomed to the cold and frost of their region should pay attention to the vines, which are distinguished by the early appearance of flowers.

Clematis Hegley Highbridge

These varieties include:

Andre Leroy;
Hegley Hybrid;
Cardinal Rouge, etc.

Even in Siberia, clematis of these varieties can grow and develop, bringing aesthetic pleasure to the owner. Plants that bloom on last year's shoots deserve a mention. Their representatives are able to winter completely uncovered.

Zone temperate climate will be a great place for breeding species that bloom twice a year: in spring and in August.

Clematis Ballerina

These varieties are:

Ballerina;
Pennel;
The president;
Jeanne d'Arc, etc.

These varieties have gained popularity among flower growers due to the fact that if they freeze out in winter, then flowering can begin already this year.

The weather prevailing in the southern regions of Russia is perfect for varieties that do not differ in winter hardiness.

Here are some examples of such varieties:

Clematis Daniel Deronda

Daniel Deronda;
Blue flame;
Lord Neville, etc.

In order for these plants to bloom well and not die in winter, they must be moved to gentle conditions during the cold season.

Clematis care in autumn

Clematis "Dr. Ruppel"

In order for the clematis plant to survive the winter well, several factors will have to be taken into account that will help the flowers survive this period. Let's take a closer look at each stage that the florist must perform in order to ensure proper care for clematis for the winter.

The soil

The clematis flower follows so that the tillering node is at a depth of 12 cm.

A little about fertilizers: at the end of summer, you need to stop feeding with nitrogen mixtures, caring for clematis in the fall includes the introduction of fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

Pruning

Autumn care for clematis involves pruning. Varieties that bloom on last year's shoots are pruned to maintain growth and thinning. They should overwinter in a covered room, protected from the cold.

Lianas, the flowers of which appear on the shoots of both the past and the current year, should be cut twice after flowering, removing a third from the edge. Having got rid of excess, the shoots should be covered and left to winter. Blooming on the shoots of the current year require a fairly short pruning, in which the shoots are removed entirely. You need to leave one or two buds located above the ground.

Spraying and sheltering

To protect your plants from infection, fungus, caring for clematis in the fall, before wintering, includes treatment with foundation. Covering flowers should be in dry weather, providing the roots with access to air. In areas with unusual temperature conditions, especially covering flowers is not recommended, as they require ventilation.

Insulation materials

Dried foliage, brushwood or spruce branches can be poured into the container where clematis grows. These materials can accumulate under the snow layer, so they should not be placed directly on the soil before winter. A good option containers for such heaters will be any box of sufficient size.

Final preparations

Prepared vines need to be sprinkled with a layer of foliage, cover wooden box and put on it waterproof material... The entire structure is covered with soil or peat, the layer of which should not exceed 25 cm.

Video "Cut and cover clematis in the fall"

Video "Caring for clematis in the fall - preparing for winter"

The process of caring for clematis in the fall is not so difficult task, which any florist can handle. By strictly following the instructions, it will be possible to create everything for the plants the necessary conditionsso that wintering passes without problems, and in the spring they can again please the eye every day.

The name clematis is derived from the Greek word “clema”, and literally means “vine”. In Russia it was popularly called by the people of grandfather's curls, and a vine, and a warthog, but more often it is called "clematis". Among clematis they distinguish completely different types not only in terms of their structure, but also in terms of frost resistance.

Herbaceous - they have green rounded shoots, which die by the end of the growing season. In spring, they develop from buds sleeping underground. Most of them belong to leaf-climbing vines - they climb the supports, twisting leaf stalks around them. Such perennials include varieties: forest, Texas, six-petal and others. This group does not require a complex shelter in the form of multilayer insulation, since it is much easier to keep only the underground part of plants from frost than the ground one. It is enough only to slightly spud the root part of the plants with earth or humus.
Semi-shrubs - their lower part is lignified and persists for many years, and the upper one dies off annually. With proper care, they can withstand up to minus 15 degrees without shelter in the south, and up to 40 degrees in the north (for example, in Siberia) with shelter.
Shrubs - have entirely lignified multifaceted dark reddish-brown shoots that winter well. In the spring, they develop from the aboveground buds of the shoots that survived the winter. In the south, during winters with extremely low temperatures, leaves and young shoots can be damaged, but in spring they grow back.

The most popular winter-hardy varieties of clematis

Quite a lot of varieties and hybrid forms have been bred, which differ from their other relatives by high winter hardiness. For example, for growing without autumn pruning and shelters in areas with winter temperatures up to 25 C are suitable for such varieties as: as serrated-leaved, because ligustic-leaved, because Tangut, because short-tailed, because shrubby purple lobed, because Isfagansky and others. When good shelter they will winter wonderfully almost everywhere in our country and delight with their abundant early flowering. Such varieties as oriental, because wine-leaved, purple or burning in these conditions will be able to overwinter only after pruning the shoots for the winter.

The varieties that can be grown throughout our country without the risk of freezing deserve special popularity among gardeners. Here are the most popular of them that can withstand frosts under cover up to -48 C:

Flowers in the form of single blue-violet bells up to 5 cm in diameter, shiny, but there are also pink, as well as white flowers. Blooms from April on overwintered shoots, liana up to two and a half meters. Used for vertical gardening.

The flowers are similar to hyacinth flowers - tubular, blue, gathered in bunches, with a pleasant smell. Erect semi-shrub, reaching a height of up to a meter. Blooms from mid-summer to September. Used to decorate the border.

Texas... The flowers are water lily-like, slightly drooping with different shades of red. Liana herbaceous perennial up to two and a half meters of beautiful bluish-green color. It blooms in summer, then the shoots die.

Ville de Lyon... The flowers are very large open (up to 15 cm in diameter!), Red-carmine, darker at the edges. It blooms in late May, blooms violently all summer on the shoots of this year. Then they die off.

Zhakman... The most popular foreign variety. Very beautiful open wide flowers, color from purple to dark purple, cruciform, very large - up to 15 cm in diameter. Shrub liana with dark brown shoots. Blooms all summer very profusely.

Today, a lot of varieties have been bred that are suitable for widespread cultivation in our country, and all of them are beautiful in their own way and are used in different directions: both in vertical and horizontal gardening.

Wintering clematis

On the eve of winter, the gardener's worries hardly diminish. And this is understandable, because no one knows what future winter will be like and what it promises for your favorite plants. If it has little snow, then there will be a risk of freezing or complete freezing of perennials, and there may also be a danger of a lack of moisture in the soil in the spring, which will lead to a delay in their growth and development. On the contrary, if the winter turns out to be snowy, completely different problems arise. In the presence of a large cover, there is a risk of damping out of plants and the development of rot. In order to avoid all these troubles, as well as in order for the plants to develop correctly after wintering and delight you with their flowering for a long time, let's figure out how to cover clematis for the winter.

The main rule to be guided by when preparing for the winter period: in areas where roses are sheltered for the winter, clematis must also be covered. They can withstand frosts up to 30 degrees, as well as short-term frosts at night (even sometimes up to -7C) and even light snow. Immediately after the daytime warming, the buds open again and bring joy with their beautiful appearance and smell.

The whole process of preparation for wintering consists of the following steps:

Step 1Correct planting of plants, taking into account the subsequent wintering

In areas with cold winters, plant them on the warmest side of the house (south, southeast, or southwest). The place where you plant clematis, you need to choose either naturally protected from exposure strong wind, or artificially protect the site from it.

To do this, arrange some obstacles: plant shrubs or trees, build decorative fences etc. At the designated location in cold regions, dig holes of 70 x 70 x 70 cm in which to plant the plants. This is not required in warm areas.

Step 2

With the onset of cold weather, clean the soil around the plants from fallen leaves and debris. This will prevent your plant from pests and diseases. Spread organic (humus, peat, compost, etc.) and mineral (phosphorus-containing) fertilizers throughout the site.

When growing clematis in cold areas, it is recommended at the end of summer to add two to three glasses of wood ash under each plant. In the fall, with the onset of the first frost, dig deep into the ground on the site. Deep digging will protect root system from breaks during severe frostssince cracks sometimes appear in the soil. In addition, in the southern regions, moisture is retained in a similar way.

Step 3Shelter for the winter

Correctly planted clematis (which have a deep root collar), cut to the second or fourth pair of buds. Then, cover them with some kind of material (tar paper, film, roofing material, box, etc.), and sprinkle on top with either dry earth, or peat, humus, sawdust, etc., and then with snow.

The thickness of the shelter should be up to 30 cm, in which case the flowers are not afraid of frosts up to 40 C. In varieties blooming on last year's shoots, to obtain early flowering these shoots are not pruned. Carefully remove them from the support, remove the affected and weak shoots, and cut healthy ones, leaving one third of their length (about one meter). After that, lay them long along the row or carefully roll them in a ring around the plant.

Place spruce branches, dry branches, straw, etc. on the soil. Put spruce branches, etc. on top of the plants, then a layer of waterproof materials, and on the third floor, pour sawdust, peat, etc.

In the southern regions, do not cover the flowers, but only cut them off. If the frosts in these places do not fall below minus eighteen, it is enough to simply spud with a layer of dry soil.

Clematis, whose shelter for the winter is carried out at the end of October-November, after that, may die if you rush to preparatory work, and start them well before frosty weather sets in.

It is possible to hide flowers in the following way: erect small frames above them from scrap materials, on which you fix the covering materials so that the shelter does not reach the ground a little. This will ensure good ventilation when humidity and temperature rise in winter.

Step 4

When warm days come, make holes in the shelters for ventilation. When the threat of the strong spring frosts passed, then begin to gradually release clematis from shelter. Remove first upper layer shelter, after a few days - another, etc. it is important to fully open them before the shoots begin to grow. If the ground part of the vine is still dead, do not rush to throw the flower away. It is possible that it will start growing from the root. In order to preserve your beloved perennial, winter care is repeated for all the following years in the same order.

Subject to these simple rules, Clematis can sometimes grow in one place from ten to fifty years, without ceasing to delight you with their splendor.

Clematis - gorgeous curly perennial flower lilac, blue, pink and white shades. To preserve it and rejoice next summer, we will share tips about clematis for the winter what to do. This question causes confusion for many. This is a wonderful decoration garden plot needs shelter for the winter. Usually clematis care in the fall preparation for winter is its pruning and shelter in the winter.

Modern growers believe that it is possible to grow clematis without shelter for the winter with a deep planting.

The main thing is correct agricultural technology, in which the flowers ripen perfectly, harden and winter well even under small lung hiding place. As practice has shown, clematis that grow near the walls of the house and are protected from the winds winter well.

The most non-frost-resistant clematis are clematis of the 3rd pruning group, since they develop flowers on the shoots of the current year and which are recommended to be cut in autumn.
Shoots of clematis of the first pruning group (flowers develop on shoots of the previous year) are relatively frost-resistant and winter without much damage. If last year's shoots are damaged by frost, the shoots of the current year bloom, but only a little later.

At a temperature of about 0 ° C, nutrients from the leaves and the upper part of the shoots are transferred to the buds, so there is no need to rush to cut the leaves and shoots early in the fall. When the temperature drops to –2… –5 ° C, the water content in the cells decreases, the activity of physiological processes decreases, which is typical for the rest period. If the climatic conditions are favorable for the passage of hardening before winter, then the wintering of clematis goes well.

To save nutrients in plants for the winter in late autumn, it is desirable to stop their flowering and growth. To do this, in a timely manner, even during the growing season, proper care is needed in the fall:

apply correctly selected groups of fertilizers (without nitrogen, since nitrogen leads to an increase in green mass),
timely pruning (the time when to prune clematis in the fall depends on which group it belongs to 1, 2 or 3),
timely removal of plant fruits,
pinching growing shoots in autumn.

If you have doubts - do you need to prune clematis for the winter? It is necessary!

Pruning clematis for the winter

Clematis are pruned depending on the clematis pruning group. The time when to prune clematis for the winter also depends on the pruning group. If it is unknown, it is best to prune in mid-August at a height of 40 - 60 cm. Such pruning of clematis in autumn helps to get rid of fungal diseases. Be sure to remove old leaves, dead and diseased plant parts.

If you know the clematis trimming group, then the trimming scheme is as follows:

All clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year in July - the first half of August, cut two knots from the ground level, add a bucket of humus to each plant.
Cut the stems of clematis, blooming on the shoots of last year in June, and then in August or even later, at a height of 1 meter from the ground, carefully remove from the supports and lay them on the ground, on spruce branches. Add humus or compost to the base of the plants.
Preparation for winter includes fertilization and top dressing.
Until the soil is frozen, you can spray the root collar of clematis with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% ferrous sulfate, or fill it with sand, to which you can add ash (250 gn bucket of sand). The shoots are sprayed and bent down.
You can dig in the shoots in a shallow (5-8 cm) groove, cover them with sand and soil (as when propagating by layering).
You can spread the shoots on the soil surface by placing spruce branches under them and on top. This will prevent the bushes from being damaged by mice. In addition, the needles release phytoncides and do not cake.
In areas with permanent snow cover, shoots only bend down.
In the Baltic States, where thaws are observed several times during the winter, shoots are covered with dry peat, sawdust or other material and covered with plastic wrap. With such a shelter, the buds do not freeze out, they germinate more amicably in spring, shoots bloom abundantly and early.

For clematis, waterlogging of the soil in winter is more dangerous than low temperatures... Anaerobic conditions are created in the soil, which makes it difficult for the roots to breathe. Therefore, when preparing clematis for winter, it is not necessary to carry out water-charging irrigation.

How to cover clematis for the winter

Shelter of clematis for the winter is carried out in different ways, depending on the age and value of the plant:

put on young plants flower pots upside down, dry leaves, shavings or sawdust are poured on top with a layer of 20 cm, and then spruce branches.
large clematis plants of especially valuable varieties are covered with wooden boxes and covered with the same layer of dry leaves on top.
on all other adult clematis, laid on the ground, spruce branches are applied with a layer of 20 cm for insulation for the winter.
A film is pulled over all the shelters, it protects the plants from dampness, and the spruce branches protect them from caking and from mice.

It is very convenient to make such supports for clematis, which can be lowered to the ground with all the shoots. Perennial curly flowers are simply covered with spruce branches on top, with a film and so they are stored until spring.

This method of sheltering clematis for the winter is acceptable if the leaves are not infected. fungal diseases... If the plant is affected by diseases and pests, then all spores, when covered, will fall into the soil, infecting the soil or mulching material. In the spring, spores will inevitably sprout and infect young shoots.

It is easy to determine the presence of diseases in clematis - in mid-July or early August, the leaves turn yellow, the shoots wither. In this case, the fallen leaves are removed and burned in the fall.

Preparing clematis for winter in the Moscow region

Shelter of clematis for the winter in the Moscow region occurs in the same way as described above. The most unpleasant thing about growing clematis in the Moscow region is the thaw during which the dormant period is disturbed. Even with a warm long autumn, shoots 5-10 cm long can grow from the buds of clematis, which will die in winter. And despite the fact that in the spring, reserve buds germinate in the flowers, from which new shoots are formed, flowering will be weak and late. To avoid this, you need to plant clematis deeply and do not cover much.

Correct deep planting of clematis, when the center of tillering is at a depth of 8 to 15 cm, this protects it from frost. Be sure to mulch the soil above the roots of clematis at the level of 8-15 cm. In this case frost-resistant varieties clematis can not be covered for the winter in the suburbs.

Preparing clematis for winter includes two main and rather difficult activities for beginners.

Pruning bushes.
Shelter for plants.

Pruning is probably the most difficult and incomprehensible thing for novice clematis growers. But in reality everything is simple here!

Pruning clematis for the winter

It will certainly be very good if you know which pruning group your clematis belongs to. But even if you don't know, it doesn't matter, now we'll figure it out. Let's start at the beginning.

When to prune clematis for the winter. Depending on where you live, pruning is done either in late October or early November. Try to be in time while the weather is good. This is a rather painstaking business and it will be extremely unpleasant to do it in the rain.

How clematis are cut in the first year after planting. In the first year of life, preparing plants for winter is quite simple. The first pruning for all varieties of clematis is the same. Leave a shoot 20 - 30 cm high (2 - 3 buds), and cut off the rest. Such short pruning will provoke the development of lateral shoots in the next year.
Pruning clematis of the first group. If clematis begins to bloom in the spring on old, last year's shoots, then it belongs to the first pruning group. In such plants, you can leave long, up to two meters high shoots. The tops of the shoots are mainly cut off, adjusting the height of the bush to the size of the trellis. In addition, remove dry, broken and simply "extra" shoots.
Pruning clematis of the second group. Clematis blooming twice a year, once on old, and then on young shoots, belongs to the second group. Such plants are pruned somewhat shorter. Shoots are left with a height of 1.2 - 1.5 m. And also dry, broken, etc. are rejected.
Pruning clematis of the third group. Clematis of this group bloom only on young shoots grown in spring. Therefore, we do not need last year's shoots. When pruning such plants for the winter, cut off all the shoots at the level of 2 - 3 buds from the ground.
When preparing clematis for winter, you can also use combined pruning. Some growers use this pruning method for all varieties. Especially if they do not know, and do not want to know which group the bushes growing on them belong to. In this case, the shoots are cut, conventionally speaking, "after one." One is left up to 1.5 m high, the other for 2 - 4 buds, etc. This method has its advantages.

There is a gradual rejuvenation of the bushes, which, sooner or later, is still recommended.
Clematis of 2 groups, during the second flowering, flowers are evenly distributed throughout the bush. After all, if all the shoots are cut off at a height of 1.5 m, then the first flowering will be below this level, and the second above.

Of course, everything in the garden will not be as simple as shown in the pictures, but also not as difficult as it might seem at first.

Removing clematis from the support

It is very difficult to remove an old, and even a neglected bush from a support. To facilitate this task, it is necessary in the spring to tie the shoots to the trellis on only one side. In no case do not braid the shoots between the trellis twigs. Over the summer they will grow and braid so that it will be impossible to remove them and not break them in the fall.

In the picture below you can see an old, overgrown clematis bush of the second pruning group.

Such a bush must be removed from the support.

A novice clematis breeder will probably have hair on end from the thought that he will now have to untangle these thickets. In fact, everything is simple.

The top of the plant can be used as a "pillow".

We cut off all the shoots at a height of 1.5 meters above the ground.

If you tied the vines on one side of the trellis in the spring, then no problems should arise.

We untie all the wires or strings with which the plant was tied to the support rods.

Scissors are the main tool for this kind of work.

With scissors we cut off all the leaves with which the plant holds onto the twigs.

After the strings were removed and the leaves were cut off, the plant easily separated from the trellis.

That's all, it all took no more than 20 minutes. Of course, in the spring, you still have to tinker. Cut out all the broken vines, and just thin out the bush well. To do this, you will have to cut off all the leaves with scissors and distribute the best shoots evenly and beautifully on the trellis. But it will be in the spring ...

Now you can proceed to the next stage of preparing clematis for wintering.

How to cover clematis for the winter

You can hide clematis for the winter different ways... You just need to try that the shelter protects not only from the cold, but also from dampness and is not excessive. Clematis is quite a frost-resistant plant and it is not necessary to insulate it beyond measure.

These plants are already ready for winter.

First of all, you need to ensure that clematis is not flooded with water during thaws. To do this, 1 - 2 buckets of humus or just earth should be poured under the bush, so that a mound would form, then the roots will not get wet.

Shoots should be placed not on bare ground, but on some kind of "pillow". Planks, branches, cut off shoots of the same clematis are usually used as a pillow. I most often pour needles for this purpose. In dry places, all kinds of rodents like to hibernate, but prickly needles and mice do not like it. But in the spring the needles must be removed, it is strong

Shelter scheme for clematis for the winter

acidifies the soil, and this is categorically disliked by the clematis itself.

It is convenient to use lutrasil or any other covering material for cover. Wrap the prepared, trimmed shoots with lutrasil, lay on the needles and cover them with leaves, spruce branches. All this must be covered from above with pieces of slate.

All gardeners always have a lot at hand old film... I just want to use this film to cover wintering flowers. It can of course be used, but with some caveats.

Clematis, wisteria and curly rose - amazing flowering plantsoften used in ornamental gardening. Each of them is unique in its own way and can decorate an arch, a gazebo, decorative lattice or just a not very attractive wall with a solid carpet of large and small (simple or double) flowers. But it is clematis that is able to enrich this carpet with a delicate range of white, yellow, pink, crimson, cherry red, bluish and purple shades, which undoubtedly makes it the first position in the choice of plants for vertical gardening.

Despite the outwardly deceptive "aristocratic" appearance, graceful clematis is not a whimsical plant and, with simple care, can please the eye with flowering for about 20 years. However, flower growers sometimes have to deal with the problem of its freezing or non-flowering, which in fact, if you properly study the features of this plant, cannot be considered a serious problem. It should not be forgotten that wild clematis very rarely differs in non-flowering, and some of its species (Clematis cirrhosa var.balearica and Clematis napaulensis) are able to withstand temperatures of minus 12 ° C and bloom (!) Already from December, in connection with which this plant is considered frost-resistant enough. Such facts once again confirm that the death of clematis during wintering or the lack of flowering in it is often associated with a violation of the conditions of agricultural technology by flower growers (choice of a place and variety, rules for planting, pruning, preparation and shelter for the winter).

The choice of the type and variety of clematis is one of the requirements for its successful wintering in certain climatic conditions. Depending on the time of flowering, clematis are early, medium and late flowering, and by the nature of flowering, they bloom on the shoots of the current year, on last year's shoots, on last year's shoots and the growth of the current year.

For cultivation in harsh climates, early and mid-early varieties of clematis are best suited with flowering on the growth of the current year (Andre Leroy, Hegley Hybrid, Cardinal Rouge, Biryuzinka, etc. from the Integrifolia, Jacqueman and Viticella groups). The princes (Alpine, Siberian and Okhotsk) are also very resistant to such conditions - types of small-flowered clematis blooming on last year's shoots, able to easily endure wintering even without shelter.

For a temperate climate, clematis blooming twice: the first time in the spring on the shoots of last year, and the second time - at the end of summer on the shoots of the current year. These are the varieties Ballerina, Pennell, Fair Rosamund, President, Jeanne d "Arc, etc. from the groups Patens, Florida, Lanuginoza (partially). These types of clematis are the most popular among gardeners, since, subject to freezing in the harsh winter of last year's shoots, it remains possible to get flowering on the growth of the current year.

Clematis of the Jackmani, Vititsella, Lanuginoza groups, which are late blooming on the growth of the current year, and also not winter hardy varietiesblooming only on last year's shoots, it is recommended to grow in soft southern climate... These include Madame Baron Willard, Blue Flame, terry varieties Jeanne d "Arc, Daniel Deronda, Lord Neville and others. Such plants require a" sparing "wintering for long flowering and saving last year's shoots until next year.

It is possible to partially prevent the freezing of clematis (regardless of varietal characteristics) using agrotechnical techniques. When planting the plant, it is recommended to deepen it into the soil so that the tillering node in an adult clematis is 10 - 12 cm below the edges of the pit, and in a young one - by 8 - 10 cm. During the growing season, it is recommended to limit the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers under the bushes, and in September add potash and phosphorus (for example, "Kemira autumn").

In the fall, in preparation for winter, many types of clematis must be pruned. This procedure is carried out more for the purpose of thinning on varieties blooming on last year's shoots. For this type of clematis, it is important to maintain the growth of the current year in winter and, if the variety is not winter-hardy, to provide it with a reliable shelter from severe frosts. Clematis, blooming on last year's shoots and on the growth of the current year, are cut off twice after flowering, cutting off the tops of faded shoots by about a third. All left shoots are carefully removed from the support and covered for the winter. Types of clematis that bloom only on the growth of the current year are cut very shortly: the shoots are cut off completely, leaving only 1 - 2 pairs of buds above the soil level (20 - 30 cm).

It is recommended to spray all clematis and the soil at the base of the bushes before the autumn shelter with foundation (20 g per 10 l of water) for the prevention of fungal diseases, powder wood ash and spud to a height of 10 - 15 cm, pouring weathered peat, humus or compost into the center of the bush (2 - 3 buckets). When a constant air temperature of minus 5 - 7 ° C is established, clematis are covered in dry weather. The best way to cover is air-dry, to prevent the root system from getting wet and dry. In southern regions and in regions with frequent winter thaws, clematis is not recommended to be heavily covered, leaving access for periodic ventilation.

As a heater, you can use dry leaves, spruce branches, brushwood, even shredded foam (from packing boxes). Please note that all these materials (except for foam) tend to cake under a thick layer of snow, as a result of which the amount of air space decreases and the likelihood of freezing increases. To prevent this, during the shelter of clematis, it is recommended to build a kind of rigid frames from wooden boxes, shields, or simply from the remnants of a cut vine rolled into a large ball. Moreover, in comfortable conditions air-dry shelters mice often like to hibernate and spoil plants, so poisoned baits are left under the bushes to protect them from them.

Short-cut, spudded clematis is sprinkled with a layer of leaves (covered with spruce branches), covered with a wooden box on top, on which waterproof material is laid (roofing material, roofing felt, plastic wrap) and sprinkle it on top with earth or peat with a layer of 20 - 25 cm. If under the shelter it is necessary to keep the clematis shoots left after trimming, they are carefully removed from the support and rolled into a ring. Leaves (brushwood, polystyrene) are laid on the ground with a layer of 5 - 7 cm, rolled shoots are placed on it, covered with the same material and covered with a wooden box (vine scraps). If there are several bushes, a common shelter is organized for them using wooden shields, under which bricks are placed. From above, the box (shield) is covered with roofing material or a thick film and the edges are pressed with stones so that the structure is not blown away by the wind. If winter is expected with little snow and frosty, the shelter can still be covered with a layer of earth.

In spring, it is recommended to remove the shelter from clematis gradually so that the shoots do not suffer from recurrent frosts, a thick layer of snow is removed in several stages. With the establishment of warm weather in the shelters, holes are made for ventilation, and when the danger of strong return frosts has passed and the snow has completely melted, the film (roofing material) is removed completely to prevent the shoots from drying out. Shields, leaves and a hillock from the roots are not removed immediately, gradually accustoming the plants to the coolness and the spring sun.

If, after an unsuccessful wintering, it turns out that clematis has died, you should not immediately uproot it. These plants, even after 2 - 3 years, can still form young shoots from the roots and recover. Naturally, before the shoots regrowth, such bushes should also be covered for the winter.