Pomegranate at home: growing from a stone. Pests and diseases of plants How to cure indoor pomegranate? Asters - princesses of my flower garden

Everyone loves this magnificent plant. Graceful, with beautiful flowering and valuable fruits, it attracts many gardeners who want to plant pomegranates in their area. And of course, those who want to grow pomegranates need to know how this beautiful culture is propagated. In fact, nothing super complicated about this process no, the pomegranate is not too whimsical, and when proper care produces strong shoots from which healthy, promising seedlings can be grown.

The pomegranate can be propagated by seed and vegetative methods. When propagated by seeds extracted from high quality, large, sweet fruits, the pomegranate can repeat all the characteristics mother plant- if you form a crown with a bush and take good care of the plant for several years. However, the main method of reproduction of pomegranates is vegetative, by root shoots and cuttings.
Reproduction by root shoots is used to rejuvenate old pomegranate bushes with branches that have lost the flexibility necessary to cover the plant for the winter.
Cutting, as the main method of pomegranate propagation, is used to obtain high-quality seedlings. It is based on regeneration, that is, the body's ability to restore the functions and growth of individual organs or their parts. In the process of regeneration, cuttings form adventitious (adventive) roots.
Root regeneration depends on many factors that must be taken into account. To obtain high quality pomegranate seedlings, it is necessary to root the shoots cut from large, high-yielding, frost-resistant pomegranate bushes. They should be harvested in the fall after harvesting. For cuttings, one-year, less often two-year shoots are used. In cut shoots, lateral branches, thin upper, dry and non-lignified ends, thorns are removed.

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The cleaned shoots are tied in bunches, signed and laid horizontally on the bottom of the dug trench (it should be below the level of soil freezing in the winter season), then the trench is filled with moist earth and additionally covered with straw (20 cm thick layer). Shoots are stored in a trench until spring, removed only after the soil has completely thawed.
The removed shoots are examined, sorted, and dried and damaged ones are removed. Live shoots are cut into cuttings 20-25 cm long. The lower cut is made directly under the bud, which contributes to the rapid emergence of callus and the root system, the upper cut is 2 cm above the bud.
To grow pomegranate seedlings, you need to choose a flat area (it is possible with a slight slope to the south), protected from dry and cold winds, with fertile soil provided with irrigation water.
Pomegranate cuttings are planted in May - after the threat of the return of repeated frosts has passed. Before planting, the cuttings are immersed in a clean running water... They are planted at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other, in an inclined position to the south, so that young developing plants are better illuminated by the sun's rays. When planting, the cuttings are buried in the ground so that one bud protrudes on the surface, and then they are spudded, and the tops must be covered with earth. After planting, the cuttings are watered with water (best of all by sprinkling) until the soil is completely moistened - this contributes to its good subsidence and rooting of the cuttings.
In order for the cuttings to take root quickly and well, the soil must be constantly moist. To do this, it is regularly watered, and in addition, the aisles are loosened and organic fertilizers in the root zone of the seedlings. Watering ends in late October - early November, after the leaves have fallen.
The grown pomegranate seedlings are dug out, trying not to damage root system... After digging, they are sorted, rejecting the damaged and infected with diseases, which are immediately destroyed. A pomegranate seedling with 3-4 shoots, reaching a height of 50-60 cm, with a developed root system (length from 35 cm) is considered suitable for growing.
In winter, the dug out seedlings are stored in a trench dug below the freezing level of the soil. They are laid with their roots down, obliquely at an angle of 45 ° and covered with earth. With the beginning of spring, after the onset of steadily warm weather, but before budding, seedlings begin to be planted in the soil. Before planting, the roots of the pomegranate are immersed in a mash made from water, clay and fresh cow dung... After planting, the plants are spudded, pouring a 15-20 cm high hill of earth on top. In the above-ground part of the plant, 3-4 shoots are left, shortened by two-thirds of the length. When laying a pomegranate garden (taking into account the formation of a bush), the distance between the rows should be 5 m, and in the row between the plants - 3-4 m.

It will not be an exaggeration to say that almost every apartment or house in our country is decorated with indoor flowers. Most often, their assortment is not particularly diverse, but there are exceptions. How do you indoor pomegranate, for example?

Basic information

Pomegranate (Punica) feels quite comfortable at home. However, in this case, it is not the nutritional properties of its fruits that come to the fore, but the decorative qualities of the flowers of the plant. Important! V indoor conditions it is still best to grow the dwarf pomegranate (Punicanana). However, many scientists and gardeners believe that indoor plant the pomegranate is just a separate form of the parent plant. Judging by the appearance and characteristics of the vegetation process, this is how it is.

Brief historical background

Oddly enough, but indoor pomegranate has been known as a houseplant since long ago... This circumstance is mainly due to the amazing unpretentiousness of this plant. In the subtropics and tropics, it is widely grown in open ground, and in our conditions, ordinary pots on windowsills or even indoor greenhouses are preferable. By the way, for the excellent decorative qualities of pomegranate flowers, it has long been awarded an Honorary Diploma of the Royal Horticultural Society of Great Britain.

Ancient legends say that this fruit was once known as the "Punic apple". In legends, pomegranate was a symbol of fidelity in marriage, in Greece it was used as a symbol of fertility, and the Persians honored it as the personification of ardent and passionate love. However, all these are trifles, since the beneficial properties of pomegranate have been known since antiquity.

In general, so useful plant worthy to become a decoration of any home or garden. Moreover, it (as we have already said) is distinguished by its rare unpretentiousness, it can grow on brackish and arid soils.

Description of pomegranate

It should be noted that the original indoor pomegranate was described back in 1803. Its height in the maximum case does not exceed 120 centimeters, and in the form of a potted plant, it grows only up to 0.9 meters. The leaves are light green, oval in shape, no more than three centimeters across, and are distinguished by short cuttings that have a slightly reddish tint. In spring, the leaves acquire a beautiful bronze color, in summer they are light green, and by autumn they become yellowish.

Note that the most decorative are special, cultivars indoor grenade. From May to September these plants are strewn with the most beautiful purple flowers in abundance. They are located in a single order, they are formed already in the first year of cultivation. Tellingly, their size exceeds that of the leaves - about four centimeters. Please note: only flowers with long pistils can produce fruits. The percentage of these is very low, since the pomegranate houseplant is purely decorative.

Each flower lives for a maximum of three days, but new buds are tied and blooming every day. Gardeners testify that there are no more than three or four ovaries per one hundred flowers. The indoor pomegranate has a special uniqueness for the reason that the plant can simultaneously have both buds and already ripening fruits.

Separately about fruits

The fruits themselves, by the way, can be colored in the most different colors: from orange to brownish red. Alas, but they are far from the "ordinary" pomegranate in taste, and in diameter they are a maximum of six to seven centimeters. You can taste them starting in November. The fruiting season ends around January.

Since pomegranates are most often grown at home for the sake of flowers, the fruits are usually removed. This is due to the fact that profuse flowering already strongly depletes the plant, so to preserve the decorative properties of the pomegranate, it is better to remove the emerging ovaries. However, one or two fruits can still be left on one tree.

And it is worth doing this not so much for culinary purposes, but to get your own seeds. Note, however, that the varietal qualities of plants can not always indulge in this method of reproduction. And only once every three to four years can you make yourself a gift, leaving all the fruits on the tree. The beauty of a pomegranate blooming and fruiting at the same time is simply indescribable.

What are the best varieties to use?

On sale, you will probably only find dwarf pomegranate(Punicagranatum). Occasionally, on the shelves of shops, you come across a room pomegranate "Baby" or "Carthage". The last two varieties are bred artificially, designed specifically for indoor cultivation. Their height rarely exceeds 30 centimeters, while the usual dwarf species often grows up to one meter.

Lighting requirements

Despite its general unpretentiousness, the pomegranate houseplant is distinguished by its exactingness to the lighting conditions in the house. That is why you can choose any windows in the house to place it, with the exception of those that face the north side. However, on hot and sunny days, it is still necessary to cover the delicate leaves of the plant from exposure to direct sunlight.

notice, that perfect place for a pomegranate in the summer - a loggia, an attic or a veranda. Important! Train the plant to " sunbathing"Should be done gradually, since with an excessively sharp course of the process, the formation of sunburn on the leaves is not excluded. As soon as daylight hours begin to decrease and the nights become colder, this southerner should be brought into the house immediately.

Temperature Range

As you might have guessed, the pomegranate needs warmth, and for the entire period of flowering and fruiting. In general, its normal development is possible at a temperature of about 20 degrees Celsius. Important! If the room temperature exceeds 25 degrees, it must be taken to a cooler and more ventilated room, otherwise the shoots may begin to dry out. If this is not possible, regularly spray the leaves with water. room temperature(defended, of course).

But! For normal fruit ripening to occur, the pomegranate needs a temperature of approximately 16-18 degrees Celsius. From November to March, the plant has a dormant period, during which it is required to maintain temperature regime at the level of 10-12 degrees. By the way, these indoor plants can easily withstand frosts down to minus six degrees Celsius.

Requirements for the composition and other characteristics of the soil

Although we said that in nature, pomegranates are extremely unpretentious to soil, at home, to create the most ornamental plant, the characteristics of potting mixes should be maintained at the proper level. Please note that they must be neutral (pH 7). We would recommend the following characteristics:

Half of the sod land, ¼ part of good leaf humus, 12% peat, and 13% sand.
... Half sand, ¼ part loam and peat (watch the pH!).
... Two parts of clay-sod soil, one volumetric part of leafy land, one share of sand and humus.
... Especially for young plants: humus, sod, sand and leafy soil are taken in equal proportions.

About watering and air humidity

As you probably yourself understand, competent watering of any plant is a guarantee not only of its decorative appearance but also survival. In our case, there are the following watering rules:

At rest (we talked about it above), the number of waterings is reduced as much as possible: no more than once every one and a half to two months!
... When houseplants come out of hibernation, you can gradually increase the frequency. Gradually move to frequent watering soaking well upper layer soil in a pot. It should be moistened as it dries.
... Please note that during flowering, the intake of moisture should be limited, since in natural conditions this time coincides with a dry and hot period. But be careful! With a lack of moisture and nutrients you may well stay at the "broken trough", as the plant will simply throw off all the buds and ovaries.
... As we have already said, in hot weather and in stuffy rooms, it is necessary to spray pomegranate leaves with settled water.
... As soon as the flowering ends, the plant needs to be watered again abundantly, since otherwise the abundant flowering in the next year will be questionable.
... If you need to grow fruits, then the issue of soil moisture should be approached as carefully and carefully as possible. If you overdo it with water, then the fruits may well crack and even rot.

Feeding

Any indoor flowers need feeding. Pomegranate is no exception. It should be "fed" at least twice a month. V spring any nitrogen fertilizer can be widely used. When the pomegranate blooms, are required phosphorus fertilizing, and in the autumn - potassium. However, once (per month) it is quite acceptable to use a complex fertilizer. Important! Top dressing should be done only in cloudy weather.

It is necessary to apply fertilizers exclusively to moist soil, but all excess water from flower pallet while draining without fail. In the autumn period, the frequency of dressings is gradually reduced, preparing the pomegranate for the dormant period. Most often, it occurs in December-January, when the last flowers have bloomed and all the fruits on the plant are fully ripe.

Dormant period

You can easily find out about its onset, since at this moment the plant begins to shed its leaves. As we said, during this period, the ambient temperature should be maintained within ten degrees Celsius. Important! As for young pomegranates that have not yet reached the age of three years, a dormant period is not required for them, but the temperature at this time should still be lowered to about 16 degrees Celsius (as when the fruit is ripening).

Of course, in the conditions of a city apartment, it is far from always possible to create optimal conditions for "hibernation". A simple measure will help to reduce the temperature sufficiently: move the pomegranate pot close to the glass, and then fence it off from the rest of the usual room plastic wrap... Aging for three to four weeks will be sufficient. However, the most optimal results can be achieved by pulling the plant out to the basement for this time.

Pruning procedure

Around February, the pomegranates are taken out of the cold room and, while the buds have not yet blossomed, pruning is carried out. The plant tolerates this pruning procedure best of all. Most of all small young twigs should be removed. To stimulate branching, it is necessary to prune the branches outside the bud under acute angle, leaving no more than five internodes on the shoot. Important! When forming a pomegranate (a photo of which is in the article), never forget to leave within six skeletal branches, which form the basis of the entire plant.

If you get carried away with pruning, you can significantly weaken the tree. By the way, it is for the formation of the woody form of pomegranate (including bonsai) that you need to mercilessly remove all the young growth in the pot. When forming branches and pruning, you need to be extremely careful, since the shoots are fragile. Excess shoots formed during the current growing season can also be removed in summer. In this case, it is advisable to close the wound with garden pitch.

How is the transplant performed?

Up to three years, it is necessary to transplant pomegranates annually. After reaching three years, the frequency of the procedure is reduced to once every two to three years. It is preferable to do this in the spring. The transplant itself is simple, as it is done by ordinary transshipment. To do this, you should take soil with the obligatory addition of sand. Of course, it is extremely important to have drainage in the pot.

Despite the developed fibrous system, the pomegranate does not need an exceptionally wide pot. An increase in capacity should be carried out at the rate of two to three centimeters per transplant, no more. By the way, the closer the roots in the pot, the more abundant the flowering of the plant (but do not overdo it!). Here's how to care for your indoor pomegranate.

Propagation of pomegranate seeds

We immediately warn you that for successful cultivation It is extremely important to buy plants from seeds in specialized stores or from trusted suppliers. However, all growers who grow indoor flowers will tell you about this. Pomegranates grown from normal seed will allow you to enjoy blooming in the first year, and you can taste your own pomegranates in about two to three years.

However, no one forbids trying to grow a tree using seeds from an already ripe fruit. Note that they retain their germination capacity for about six months. You need to choose seeds only from the largest and well-ripened pomegranates. After that, they are cleaned of pulp and dried properly in a warm and dry room. They can be sown in April, to a depth of approximately 0.5 cm. Attention - the pomegranate, the fruit of which appeared on the tree for the first time, is absolutely unsuitable for use for seed purposes, since its seeds may be too weak and will not sprout.

The substrate for this is made from equal parts of sand and peat, after which it is moderately moistened. Germination occurs at a temperature of about 25-27 degrees Celsius, seedling development begins quickly. As soon as two or three true leaves appear, the strongest and healthiest-looking seedlings are distributed in pots with a diameter of about six centimeters. For plants to grow and develop faster, they need warmth and moisture during this period. For better bushiness, they need to be pinched. Here's how to get indoor pomegranate from seeds.

Important! If you buy a pomegranate at the market or in a store, deciding to use its seeds for sowing, then keep in mind that you can expect flowering from it in seven years. best case... In addition, the size of such a plant will be too large (two to three meters) for an average city apartment. Recall that indoor pomegranate, the cultivation of which does not cause any particular difficulties, rarely grows even up to a meter.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings should be taken from mature and well-bearing plants. In the summer, you need to take those of them that are half numb, and in winter period(in February), respectively, stiffened. You need to cut the branches into pieces with five to six buds. The soil for planting is made from equal parts of sand and peat, planting is done at an angle, to a depth of approximately three centimeters. Here is how the cuttings propagation of indoor pomegranate is done.

Cuttings need to be covered with trimmed plastic bottle or a jar, water often to maintain high humidity air and soil, as it is necessary for rooting. It is highly desirable to treat the cuttings before planting with some kind of humic fertilizer, since this measure dramatically increases the likelihood of successful rooting. After about two or three months, young plants can already be planted in separate pots. The buds may appear in the first year, but the first two seasons they should be cut off, since the plant is not yet fully matured for full flowering.

In short, pomegranate is a must-have plant for every flora lover!

Earlier, I talked about purchasing a 1-meter garden pomegranate seedling. Since I didn't need such a long plant, most of it was cut off. It was a pity to throw out the unnecessary twig, so I just cut it into cuttings (15 centimeters) and put them in a glass of water. There was a great desire to observe rooting, if any. To make the process more fun, I periodically changed the water, adding either heteroauxin or succinic acid to it. Solutions of these root formation stimulants appeared in surplus during the work with coniferous seedlings (thuja and cypress).

What were the cuttings? A kind of "pencils" without leaves up to five millimeters thick. At the end of November, callus formed at the end of the cutting. At the same time, despite the approach of winter, buds began to wake up, shoots grow, leaves bloom. After some time, the bark in the lower part of the cuttings "swelled" in places, burst and roots appeared.

Actually, it was assumed that the place of their appearance would be the edge of the cut. This arrangement of roots would give a good start in the development of beautiful nebari. But, as they say, what has grown has grown. After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings were a green shoot with juicy greens and long roots that began to branch out. Since rooting took place in water, the roots were fragile. Taking this fact into account, I carefully wrapped copper wire around the stem of the cutting along its entire length.

To reduce the evaporation of moisture from the leaves (roots transferred from the water to the ground, will not be able to immediately provide the "usual" water regime for the plant), I shortened the green shoot to the lower pair of leaves. Another reason for the cut was that the straight, long stem of the plant does not contain any zest. It was necessary to force it to branch or awaken other buds, and the lower the better.

The next step was to bend the barrel. Since the shoot was one year old, it did not lose its flexibility. I twisted and twisted it in different ways. I wanted to give some unusual, somewhere even extreme form to the future bonsai. In the end, finding nothing better than a trivial coil of a spring, he left the plant alone, planting it in a plastic jar. Probably, the sight of the mother's grenade, bent in the same way, influenced me. I didn't really think about composing the soil - I took what was at hand (coarse-grained clay and store-bought soil "Lemon"), mixed 1: 1. As a drainage - a centimeter layer of fine (up to 0.5 cm) expanded clay. Before planting the plant, I powdered the roots with root, shortening the longest of them, and sprayed the leaves with Epin. In this state, the pre-bonsai from the cutting of a garden pomegranate remained to celebrate the New Year.

If desired and following the breeding rules at home, you can grow lemon, tangerine, coffee, pomegranate trees... In addition to beauty in home interior and aroma during flowering, get full fruits from the tree. The pomegranate can be grown by propagation by young cuttings and during the year pluck the ripe, not only tasty, but also healthy, pomegranate fruits.

At home, pomegranates are grown from seeds, by grafting, green shoots, lignified cuttings, which, after pretreatment, are planted in pots for rooting in the soil. With proper care and cultivation, indoor pomegranate grows in height from 0.7 to 2 meters, depending on the variety.

Knowledge of Japanese technology for forming a miniature indoor bonsai tree will also help create a tree the right size and beautiful shape.

Method advantages

Cutting is a method of growing plants that is used to different cultures, including a pomegranate.

The use of cuttings, in comparison with other methods, has a number of advantages.

A stalk (shank, shoot) is a small shoot, it grows quickly and after a year or two turns into a small tree, pleases with wonderful flowering and first fruits. When planting a stem from a well-known tree, they know in advance the quality of the expected fruit, the requirements for care and the behavior of the plant.

What cuttings are suitable

Chubuki are taken from young and strong shoots, 1 year old, they should have from 4 to 6 buds, 20-25 centimeters long. You can take the shanks from the shoots of the pomegranate root system. In the lower part, the shank is cut under the kidney, the upper part is cut half the distance between the kidneys.

Optimal dates for disembarkation

In the spring, the awakening from the winter cold of all living things begins, the buds of the trees swell, the leaves bloom, the plants are gaining color. Therefore, for cutting the shanks, the dormant time of the trees is chosen so as not to harm the plant.

The cuttings in the water will begin to come to life, they will sprout roots. It is advisable to plant the material in the soil in early May - this is the most optimal time to start rooting and growth of seedlings.

Required soil composition and pot volume

For growing pomegranates at home, purchased soil is suitable - for citrus trees, but you can also compose the soil yourself - from a small amount of small river, washed from clay, sand, turf, leaf humus, peat. In no case should you use oak soil, as this soil has an acidic environment.

Plant transplantation must be carried out in the first years annually ( in early spring), increasing the size of the pot each time. If the pot is large for the root system, the tree will grow into roots to fill the pot. Only when the roots fill the pot will the tree begin to grow. When the pomegranate grows up, you can take a large clay pot in which it will be comfortable for more than one year.

Scheme and technology of planting in the ground

Chubuki with roots are planted in a shallow wide pot at a distance of at least 10 centimeters from each other, so as not to damage the developing roots of the planting material during transplantation. The shanks are planted obliquely, sprinkle with earth only a part of the cuttings with the root system, the next bud should be at the top, it is not covered with earth.

The earth is not tamped so as not to damage the delicate roots, watered with the addition of Kornevin (or any other root growth stimulator) to improve rooting and development of the root system. The next watering is carried out in a week. The pot with shanks is covered with a plastic bag and tied at the bottom so that there is no air access. Chubuki are regularly ventilated so as not to cause the decay process.

Method for rooting sprouts in water

The method of rooting cuttings in water is used at home, in the cultivation of plants, flowers, shrubs. Plants such as grapes, roses, chrysanthemums, begonias, currants, gooseberries reproduce well in this way. When breeding by this method, you can visually observe the viability of the cuttings, the development of its root system; if necessary, applying special means, help the plant in further development and growth.

Materials for the procedure

After cutting the cuttings, the lower cut is dipped into a dry mixture of Kornevin and crushed activated carbon (in equal amounts), the excess of the adhering mixture is shaken off so as not to cause the death of the planting material. The cuttings are placed in a bowl of water in a warm, bright place. It is advisable to take glass utensils for cuttings made of white glass.

Plastic dishes are lightweight, unstable, and tip over quickly, which causes unpleasant troubles and damage to the cuttings that have appeared. The development of the roots is clearly visible through the transparent glass. If the water becomes cloudy and mucus appears on the roots, they must be carefully washed warm water and pour fresh, warm, chlorine-free water.

Root appearance period

Within a week, the buds of the processes will begin to turn green and swell, by the end of the week the first white roots will hatch. Root development and growth will begin over the next week.

With the formation of a large number of powerful, well-branching, roots, it can be determined that the processes are strong, they will definitely take in, and the tree will quickly take root and grow.

In the presence of weak, thin roots, it is clear that the root system does not develop enough, the process is not viable, and may die during transplantation. It is necessary to dilute Kornevin in water at the rate of 1 milliliter per 1 liter of warm water and hold planting material in this solution for 12 hours, then put back in clean water. When a well-developed, dense root system is formed, the shoots are transplanted into a pot to a permanent place.

Planting in prepared soil

After the appearance of 3-4 young shoots with leaves, the cuttings are transplanted into separate pots without damaging the root system with an earthen lump. Drainage is poured at the bottom of the pot. The pots are placed on the windowsill (provided that the windowsills are wide), in the room on the south side; in bright sun, the plant is shaded so that the sun's rays do not burn the leaves. You can put the pot in a place that is well lit, opposite the window - this is the best option for plant development.

Further cultivation and care

The further maintenance of the pomegranate at home includes competent watering, fertilization, pruning and crown formation, and transplanting. It is necessary to water the plant with water, separated from the residual chlorine contained in it (in the case of chlorination drinking water), room temperature. The clod of earth should not dry out. Excess water must be poured out of the pan, with an excess of moisture, the roots will begin to rot, and the plant will die.

Feeding pomegranates is best done with the use of Potassium Humate, a universal preparation that stimulates the growth and development of the plant (the frequency of feeding and the preparation of the solution are indicated in the instructions). At the beginning of flowering, the plant can be treated with Bud, which stimulates the amount of bud and fruit formation.

With the development of the root system and the emergence of the roots from the bottom of the pot, the pomegranates must be transplanted into containers with a large volume. The crown is formed from the beginning of the growth and development of the tree, by pinching young shoots, so that later, when the crown is neglected and disorderly, it does not cause severe damage to the plant (when pruning branches).

Compliance with the basic rules of caring for a pomegranate tree will help to grow a beautiful indoor plant in 2-3 years, which will bring aesthetic pleasure to the home, decorate the interior and pamper loved ones with tasty and healthy fruits.

Today I would like to tell you about the propagation of decorative pomegranate. In our Krasnodar Territory this beautiful shrub is quite common in culture, it tolerates winter well, and at the end of May - June pleases with bright red flowers (see below, pomegranate flower photo).

In general, pomegranate is deciduous tree or a shrub and belongs to the pomegranate family of the same name. His homeland is the Balkans, Asia Minor and the Caucasus. In culture, widespread Common pomegranate (Punica granatum) ... A dwarf pomegranate is best suited for indoor cultivation. This is a variety of "Nana" common pomegranate (Punica granatum f. Nana) ... The most different varieties decorative pomegranate: with simple and double, with red, cream, pink and orange flowers.

Pomegranate flower

In summer, pomegranate is good for taking out into the garden; this plant is perfect for decorating a patio or terrace. Indoor pomegranate overwinters at a temperature of +2 - 7 ° C. At this time, the plant sheds its leaves, which should not be scared. Just limit watering, not allowing the soil to completely dry out. When the leaves fall off the pomegranate, the light is no longer necessary for it. You can move the pot with it to the frost-free basement, remembering to water it sometimes.

In the spring, take the bush out into the sun, cut off the shoots, leaving 2 - 3 buds on them, and new leaves will bloom on your pomegranate.

Pomegranate bush

Reproduction of indoor (decorative pomegranate) can be carried out by seeds or cuttings. Purchased seeds, according to reviews, are often not very viable. For sowing, you can use fresh seeds, which are obtained from purchased fruits. First, they need to be soaked together with the juicy shell in water for a couple of days, then get out, cleaned and sowed. It is better to do this in February - early March. Seedlings appear in a week, then they dive into separate pots.

A pomegranate is best suited as a substrate from a mixture of sod and leafy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5: 1. However, this plant is not too demanding. Water it in moderation. In the summer, once 2 two weeks, they are fed with liquid complex fertilizer. Transplanted every 2 - 3 years. By the way, the grenade needs good lighting.

At seed reproduction varietal pomegranates seedlings do not retain the characteristics of their parents. Therefore, I prefer propagation of indoor pomegranate by cuttings. On our website you can also read about and.

Optimal time for vegetative propagation pomegranate - midsummer. At this time, the pomegranate is already releasing new shoots, and they have time to slightly woody. They say about such "semi-lignified cuttings".

Cut branches of pomegranate

I cut these young twigs and use a sharp knife to cut them apart at home. Each part should have three internodes. I cut off the bottom pair of leaves, and leave the top two.

Chopped pomegranate cuttings

Now I obliquely stick the cuttings into the pots at an angle of 45 °. I water, the excess water should drain. And I put the pot in a plastic bag.

I put the pots with cuttings in a lighted place, but not in the bright sun. The next day, you need to check if condensation has formed on the polyethylene. In this case, the bag must be untied and the cuttings ventilated.

Putting pots with pomegranate cuttings in a plastic bag

If condensation is no longer formed, then you can forget about cuttings for a month. After about this time, they will have roots, and new shoots will emerge from the internodes.