Pruning fruit trees and shrubs in autumn. When is the best time to prune trees? Autumn pruning of fruit trees and shrubs

Planting a seedling in the ground does not guarantee that the garden will grow lush and fruitful. All crops grown on the site require constant attention of the owner, regardless of the season.

Pruning fruit trees is one of the most important steps in gardening. It allows you to form the correct crown, regulate growth and fruiting. In addition, proper pruning of fruit trees can prolong their productivity. You will find all the necessary recommendations in our article.

Proper pruning of fruit trees

Pruning refers to the removal of dry and damaged branches and shoots. In addition, in the process, extra branches are cut out, which thicken the crown and reduce the quality of the crop (Figure 1).

Why carry out

Proper pruning also performs a sanitary function. Getting rid of excess branches helps prevent diseases, and a rejuvenating procedure can extend the life of the plant.

Figure 1. Types of pruning fruit crops

It is important to choose the right time to remove branches. The best time to do this is in the fall or in early spring, when the movement of juice has not yet begun in the trunk. At the same time, autumn thinning is possible only in regions with a mild climate, since severe frosts can damage the crop at the cut site.

Methods and techniques (shortening, thinning)

There are two main cropping methods: thinning and shortening (Figure 2). Each of them has its own characteristics.

Figure 2. Trimming techniques: shortening and thinning

Shortening involves the partial removal of branches and shoots. For example, if 1/5 or ¼ of the shoot is cut off, such shortening is called weak, when 1/3 or ½ is removed, it is medium, and from half to 2/3 is called strong.

In the process of shortening, rejuvenation is also carried out. For a light branch, cut off an increase of 2-3 recent years, for a moderate one, a 4-6-year increase is removed, and for a strong one, almost the entire part of the skeletal branches is removed.

Note: By shortening, you can stimulate the growth of buds and shoots, as well as make the fruiting branches thicker. However, shortening too much can cause the plant to weaken and yields will decrease.

Thinning allows you to remove extra branches from the crown. Using this method, you can increase the size of the fruit and make the tree stronger and more productive. This reduces the number of buds that only consume the juices of the culture, but do not produce fruits. Juice flows faster from the roots to the leaves, the culture grows faster and bears fruit more intensively.

More useful information you will find about pruning in the video.

Trimming types

Depending on the purpose for which extra branches are cut, there are several types of pruning. For example, using this procedure, you can form a crown right size and shape, prolong the fruiting of the tree or prevent the development of the disease.

Each type has its own characteristics, although it is carried out using the same garden tools and techniques.

To form a crown

Such a procedure is called forming. It is especially relevant for small household plots. With the help of these manipulations, you can create a compact crown, while maintaining high level fruiting (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Formative cutting technique

Removing branches to form a crown allows you to give the plant a suitable silhouette. In addition, the formed skeletal part becomes more resistant to stress. Depending on the timing of the formative pruning, growth can be slowed down or increased. If branches are removed in February, growth will be more active, and cutting in early spring will slow down the development of the culture.

Regulating fruiting

Most often, it is carried out at the end of winter or early spring, but in regions with a mild climate, branches can be removed in the fall.

The main purpose of regulating pruning is to preserve the contours of the crown and to maintain optimum illumination of the branches. In addition, skeletal branches are strengthened in the process. They are not overloaded with young shoots, and the fruits become larger and ripen evenly.

Restorative

In the process, branches and shoots with mechanical or any other damage are removed. As a rule, they are removed in the spring, in the process of checking the garden after winter.

Some of the branches may freeze slightly, so they need to be shortened to healthy wood. Also cut off all shoots with signs of disease or damage. This will preserve the viability and fruiting of the culture.

Anti-aging

It is required for old trees, which, due to long growth, stop or significantly reduce fruiting. In the process, all old branches that form fruits that are too small or an insufficient amount ovaries (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of anti-aging pruning

Anti-aging pruning stimulates the growth of new branches. As a rule, the annual growth (about 10-15 cm) is removed in the process, which stimulates the growth of the kidneys and increases the yield.

Terms of pruning fruit trees (when is it better to do)

Wondering when is the best time to prune orchard, we can say that autumn, winter and spring are considered the optimal time, when the movement of juice in the trunk stops and the plant is at rest.

In regions with severe winters, it is recommended to remove branches in autumn or spring so that the cut point is not damaged by frost and the tree does not die. Consider the features of this procedure by season.

autumn

Experienced gardeners advise pruning garden crops in the fall only when absolutely necessary. For example, stone fruits do not tolerate such an event very well and may even die without having time to get stronger before frost.

However, these warnings do not apply to sanitary cleaning. If you find diseased or damaged branches, they must be removed immediately to save the rest of the plant.

The author of the video will talk about the main features of autumn pruning.

in winter

In severe frosts, the wood becomes very fragile, so it is not recommended to remove it. In fact, this is the only limitation, because in winter all plants are at rest and branches can be removed freely if the weather is relatively warm and calm.

Figure 5. Pruning an orchard in winter

The main advantage of the procedure is that the tree experiences less stress and the wound heals faster. In addition, on branches devoid of leaves, damage is much more visible (Figure 5).

spring

It is believed that pruning can be started at any time with the onset of spring. Actually this is not true. It is better to start the procedure when the sap flow has not yet begun, but the tree is already ready to wake up. In this case, the culture will not experience severe stress, and the wound will heal faster (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Spring pruning of the orchard

Since the timing of the removal of damaged branches and growth in different cultures differ, the gardener gets the opportunity to plan the work so as to provide all the trees with the necessary care.

It is advisable to start work on a quiet windless day at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. All wounds are covered with garden pitch or yellow clay to speed up the formation of a colus.

Summer

In summer Special attention given to seedlings. On them, you need to remove the tops of the growing shoots to form a crown.

However, when diseases are detected, infected branches are removed without waiting for the cessation of sap flow. If this is not done, the disease can quickly spread throughout the garden. All remote branches should be burned immediately.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

The most important requirement for pruning fruit trees in winter is the absence of severe frost. If the air temperature is below -8 degrees, work cannot be carried out.

Note: Even though the plants are dormant in winter and are more stressed after the removal of the branches, in severe frost the wound will take too long to heal and can lead to the death of the entire crop.

However, in winter it is much easier to detect damage, since the crown is completely devoid of foliage and defects become more noticeable. It also allows you to make the cut more even and accurate. It is better to remove thin branches with secateurs, and file thick ones on both sides so that the cut is even and healthy wood is not injured.

Choice of cropping tools

To remove branches, you need to use special tools. Back to main garden tools include (Figure 7):

Secateurs- it is better to choose a regular model, and not a ratchet tool, since it will have to be pressed several times to cut. Using a simple pruner is much easier and more convenient.
Hacksaw with gaps between teeth. This design will prevent the accumulation of sawdust and keep inventory clean. For gardening, only a special hacksaw is chosen, which is not recommended for use for other work, so that the blade does not become dull.
Air sector- a tool with a telescopic handle to which the blades are attached. To make a cut, it is enough to use a special lever. Such a tool will be very useful for cutting the upper branches.

Figure 7. Main gardening Tools for cutting

In addition to inventory, you need to buy a garden pitch - a special ointment that is used to cover wounds on branches for faster healing.

Many novice gardeners mistakenly believe that there is no particular need to prune a tree in autumn, arguing that, they say, it "does all the same hibernate." However, they are greatly mistaken; Pruning fruit trees in the fall is no less important than at any other time of the year, and why, let's figure it out together.

Why is autumn pruning necessary?

autumn pruning mainly carried out in the form of sanitary. It is necessary, first of all, in order to prevent insects and various pathogenic microorganisms from continuing their destructive activity in winter and spring after the plant awakens. To prevent this from happening, broken and diseased branches must be removed. And when air passes freely between healthy branches, and they are well lit by the direct rays of the winter sun, even pests and diseases left after pruning will not leave a single chance for life. Also, do not forget about thinning pruning, which eliminates the break of branches in winter time caused by heavy snowfalls and icing. The dense crown at this time of the year can collect a large mass of snow and ice, which often breaks even thick branches. And here, as you know, there is no time for pests ...

Features of pruning fruit trees in the fall

Autumn pruning, which includes sanitary, thinning forming, is mainly used for pome crops, such as an apple tree, a quince pear, but in stone fruit trees, only sanitary is carried out. During the year, the fruit tree stays in different states.
In the fall (and this is precisely our case), it sheds its leaves and prepares for winter, ending the annual cycle of its life. In this period nutrients, which have accumulated over the summer at the top of the crown, begin to leave it and concentrate below - in the trunk and further to the root. Related to this are some features of autumn pruning, after which, by removing thick branches from neglected or poorly formed trees, you eliminate the leakage and loss of juice after the tree wakes up in spring. The flow of juice mainly occurs during late pruning of adult trees in the spring, this is more pronounced in the apple tree. The loss of sap often leads to weakening and disease of the tree, this is mainly the fault of the gardeners themselves, many of whom postpone pruning until warming and good, convenient access to the tree. Even more often heeding the advice of not experienced gardeners.

Procedure for pruning trees

First you need to decide what kind of pruning your tree needs. - it is necessary to start autumn pruning of trees in the period from September until the established frosts; - unlike spring, when the tree is actively gaining strength and is very vulnerable, in autumn it tolerates pruning very well. Pruning trees is a job that requires attention, so it is best to divide it into main stages and perform it in the following order:

Important!

do not use blunt tools: they can leave torn edges that take a long time to tighten; when pruning fruit trees in autumn, leave as many branches as possible horizontally, because they are the most fruitful; approach each tree individually and thoughtfully. If you do not have enough free time to trim the trees in your garden or feel insecure before this responsible procedure, you can contact the Your Garden 24 company. We have specialists with solid experience and rich experience who will save you from unnecessary worries and professionally prepare your fruit trees for a long cold winter.

" Trees

Tree pruning is the key to success and a must-have procedure that every experienced gardener knows about. Any fruit tree requires constant and careful care. Only in this case it will give a rich harvest.

Fruit trees such as apple, pear and stone fruits need pruning. They are very picky about pruning. Why prune fruit trees?

Pruning gardeners solve several problems at once:

Growth and fruiting.
Reducing the size of the crown.
The phytosanitary task is to create conditions unfavorable for pests and diseases.

The procedure for pruning trees prolongs their life and leads to a rich harvest.

If little light enters the crown, then the branches inside the crown do not bear fruit and eventually die. Fruits are formed only on those branches of the tree where the light hits.

AND if tree pruning was done rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on hard-to-reach branches, located, as a rule, high.

Thanks to the pruning process the crown of the tree is formed correctly. This leads to the growth of side branches and allows you to get more fruit on the available branches.

When and what kind of trees in the garden can be pruned

Pruning fruit trees in a particular season depends on the following factors:

what goal the gardener wants to achieve with this procedure;
in what climatic conditions is the garden located;
from the type of tree.

When is the best time to prune: spring, summer, winter or autumn?

In central and northern regions Russia not recommended for autumn pruning, because due to severe frosts, the wounds on the trees will not have time to heal.

This also happens because the movement of sap in the tree slows down, as it goes into a state of rest. As a result, the tree can become sick and die.

Therefore, in these regions, it is best to prune in early spring rather than autumn. It is important to bear in mind that the procedure can be carried out as soon as the air temperature has risen above 0℃.

Besides it is important to start pruning from old trees, since the buds swell faster on them than on young ones, it is recommended that pruning be done strictly before the buds swell.

Pruning fruit trees in spring:

In the southern regions of the country, pruning can be done in winter period . This is due to the fact that in the south the frosts are not as severe as in the north.

Winter pruning is primarily carried out in order to rejuvenate old trees and create the correct crown for young seedlings.

Also winter pruning is often done to reduce the fruiting of young trees. It is believed that a tree that gives rich harvests for 2-3 years in a row should be given a rest.

In addition, from high yield thin branches young tree may break. Therefore, it is important to cut off excess branches in winter. In winter, gardeners prune first pome rocks, and then stone fruits.

The ideal dimensions of a fruit tree are 3 m high and 3 m wide. They will allow you to harvest most of the crop without the help of stepladders or ladders.

Some gardeners believe that summer is the best time for pruning.. But in this case we are talking about about trees 3 years and older. They claim that pruning during the summer months results in a thriving growth of new shoots.

In addition, if pruning is done during the fruit filling, the quality of the fruit is noticeably improved.

Another advantage of summer pruning is the juice secreted by the tree. It covers the wound, which leads to rapid healing, and also acts as a protection against pests.

Most experienced gardeners find that pruning is best done when the tree is resting. Therefore, they prefer early spring.

At what age should fruit trees be pruned?

This procedure can be started annual shoots for crown formation.

If the tree has already reached 10-15 years of age, it is considered old. In such a tree, the number of growths and productivity are reduced. He needs a rejuvenating pruning.

To do this, cut branches into 3-7-year-old wood. Thus, the crown is reduced. But by next year, young shoots will thicken it. It is important to ensure that the number of cuts on one side of the branch does not exceed three.

Which plants to do and which not

The pruning procedure is required for almost all fruit trees. Since it is it that leads to an increase in yield, allows you to accelerate the growth of a tree, and also protects its many pests and diseases.

Trim, apricot, cherry plum only when leaves appear on the trees. If this is done while the tree is dormant, then pruning can lead to fungal and disease damage to the trees.

In summer, you can remove dried branches, also shorten new shoots and remove branches that interfere with the crown.

Features of the procedure

Trimming trees is important to do carefully and follow the basic rules so as not to harm.

Timing

First of all, you need to decide on the appropriate pruning season. It will depend on the type and age of fruit trees, as well as on the location of the garden and the climate.

Preparing garden tools

The presence of all the tools necessary for carrying out this procedure will play a large role as a result of pruning.

In order to avoid an increase in the diameter of the damaged area on the tree Use only sharp tools for cutting.

garden hacksaw;
secateurs;
air secateurs - secateurs on a long rod, for trimming branches at the top;
ladder;
glasses;
garden pitch or paint on drying oil - the means necessary to process the cut point.

Do not trim with a rusty tool. Otherwise, the tree may get sick and die as a result.

Scheme and technology

Before proceeding with the pruning itself, it is necessary to determine why it is necessary and draw up a plan of action.

Below are the main goals that gardeners achieve with this procedure:

form the correct crown of the tree;
strengthen thin young shoots;
remove crossing branches, defuse the crown to allow sunlight to penetrate it;
remove diseased branches, making it possible to grow healthy;
increase in the number of fruiting branches;
prepare the tree for the winter.

If you need to get the most out of the fruit tree rapid growth, during the pruning period, it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.

Once the goal is determined, it is important to learn pruning techniques. Several techniques are known, among which the most popular are three:

Cut on the kidney. This technique helps to set the correct direction of branch growth. You should find a branch with good growth. The cutting plastic of the secateurs should be turned towards the remaining part of the branch. The cut is made at a slight angle of 5 mm. in front of the kidney. New branch will grow in the direction the kidney is facing.
cut on the ring. This technique is used when it is necessary to remove a full-fledged branch that grows inside the crown, interferes with other branches and creates density. The scheme is as follows: in the place where the branches are connected, it is necessary to cut exactly along the outer ring.
Side branch cut. This technique allows you to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Incapacitated branches are cut off, and the side ones take on the function of the main branches.

Good post-care

If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, the wound should be treated without fail. To do this, you need to buy or cook your own garden pitch and treat the wound on the tree with it.

If for some reason garden pitch does not lie on the wound, you can use paint on drying oil.

Young fruit trees should be trimmed only for the purpose of shaping correct crown. Otherwise, pruning can lead to a deterioration in fruiting properties.

People who take care of their trees and prune correctly and on time always receive gratitude in the form of a good harvest.

If a person first decided to do this procedure, it is very important to follow the recommendations of knowledgeable gardeners, as this process only at first glance it seems simple.

But in fact, carelessness and ignorance can lead to the death of the plant.

Autumn pruning of fruit trees is one of the must-have activities in the garden. It has great importance for a successful wintering of plantations. However, you need to know all the important little things in order to do this operation correctly. In the article we will tell you how to prune trees in the fall, indicate the timing and pruning schemes.

Types of tree pruning

There are three main types of pruning: shaping, sanitary, rejuvenating. Each of them has its own goals, each is carried out according to clearly established rules and within a certain time frame.

Unfortunately, many experienced gardeners have no idea how to properly prune trees in the fall, resulting in a small harvest.

Formative pruning is applied to young trees and not only. Since it involves shortening and thinning, this operation is aimed at increasing the penetration of light into the crown, improving its ventilation, controlling growth, stimulating fruit formation and developing side shoots. Most often it is carried out in the spring, but some shrubs need it in the fall. Formative pruning includes the removal of shoots growing inside the crown, intertwining with each other, sagging to the ground.

🎧 How to prune and graft trees in the garden?

Andrey Tumanov, an expert summer resident, says: “How to properly cut and graft trees in the garden.” For 20 years, the author has hosted a number of TV programs dedicated to amateur gardening and horticulture - "Fazenda", "Bed", "Our Garden", "Country Hour", "Field Work".

Autumn pruning dates

Autumn pruning of trees is carried out only in areas with moderate climatic conditions. In the northern regions of Russia, it is not recommended to carry out such manipulations: the trees may not recover before frost, from which the cuts will freeze. As a result, their bark will begin to dry out, and the spring growth of new shoots will be impossible.

It is worth noting that only mature trees should be pruned in autumn, since this time of year is not quite suitable option for pruning young seedlings.

In addition, autumn is not suitable for pruning young seedlings. They can only be pruned in the spring. Some gardeners believe that autumn pruning should be done in September and October. However, experts insist that it should be done in late October - early November - at a time when sap flow slows down inside the plants.

Step by step pruning instructions

When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to how many branches it has. If there are many, then you can easily choose 5-6 main ones.
The lower tier of branches on the stem must be removed.
The height from the root neck to the base of the shoots should be 25-40 cm. The branches that break out from above are also removed. Sections are smeared with paint based on drying oil or garden pitch.
Removal is carried out "on the ring". Even small stumps should not be left, as this will cause the bark around the knot to die off. Then gum is formed at the cut site, then a hollow. During the frost period, the destruction process will be aggravated.

In the southern regions, autumn pruning is even recommended for spring unloading. Pre-winter pruning is tolerated by undersized frost-resistant varieties fruits, as well as blackberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, viburnum, lemongrass, grapes (in the covering zone).

Autumn pruning scheme

Each tree or shrub requires an individual approach in this matter. When pruning, you must follow these rules:

the lower branches should always be thicker than the upper ones. This is how tiers are formed;
the shoot that interferes with neighboring branches is shortened by 1/3 in relation to the others;
it is necessary to shorten the branches growing at 90 degrees in relation to the trunk;
the first tier should contain branches that are located relative to each other at an angle of 45 degrees;
the distance between the first and second tiers should be 60-65 cm;
the crown should ideally consist of 3-4 tiers.

The standard scheme for pruning fruit trees, which will help many amateur gardeners to get the largest possible crop of fruits.

Pruning old trees

When doing autumn pruning of the garden, gardeners should keep in mind not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the trees. As already mentioned, autumn pruning is done in September, October or early November. But the frequency of actions is changing. Carrying out this manipulation is not done every year, but only once every two or three years. This is because the fruiting buds become infertile as the plants age.

Tip #1 In autumn, rejuvenating pruning is carried out for the old garden by removing branches that are 4 or more years old. At the same time, branches are left at the bottom that are slightly thicker than the upper ones.

In addition, with anti-aging pruning, it is necessary to remove excess shoots inside the crown that interfere with each other or have managed to intertwine. In this case, diseased, dry, broken branches or those on which lichen is observed are removed. Carrying out such work will give you the opportunity to get a better and more abundant harvest from old trees, as well as protect them from harmful insects and diseases. Can't do without it proper preparation to wintering.

Pruning young trees

Autumn pruning of young trees is different from pruning of old ones. After all, young plants do not require rejuvenation, but correct formation crowns. Each type of fruit tree has its own pruning scheme. And for the formation of the crown, there are such ways:

thinning. A complete cutting of the branch is assumed. This makes it possible to penetrate deep into the crown of sunlight;
shortening. It is necessary to remove only part of the branch. Then in the new season, new shoots will grow around the cut.

After the crown is formed, it will look light and transparent. For the autumn pruning of young trees, one condition must be observed: give them time to get used to their place of growth. This will have to wait for several years.

Especially old, large trees need pruning, firstly, this will rid them of dry, dead branches, and secondly, the tree will continue to grow, giving new branches.

tree pruning mistakes

Leave a stump. The most common mistake is leaving a stump when the entire branch should have been removed. A rather long stump left during pruning is immediately overgrown with young shoots. Instead of one branch, which is cut off during thinning or to reduce the crown, several new ones appear at once. As a result, the tree resembles a panicle. The stump, of course, can dry out, but the bark will slide down, exposing the wood. If the mistake is not corrected in time - the stump is not cut off correctly - the trunk will be affected by tissue necrosis, and then by pests and diseases.
When cutting down thick branches, the bark is scuffed. First you need to make a sawing from the bottom. It turns out a scuff of the bark, which means that a wound that does not heal for a long time is formed. Large branches should be removed in parts: first, the branch is sawn from the bottom at a maximum distance of 30-40 cm from the base. Then, stepping back further by 5-10 cm, a cut is made from above. As a result, the branch will break off, and there will be no badass. The remaining stump needs to be cut off.
After pruning thickening of the crown. Instead of several cut branches, after 2-3 years, an abundance of young, actively growing ones appears. Such thickening of the crown is a reaction to tree pruning, which seeks to restore the lost mass as quickly as possible. Here is the result: fattening shoots appeared, larger than ordinary growths. They take away the nutrients intended for the rest of the tree. The growth of such shoots should not be allowed. In June, when these growths are still short (10-15 cm), they should be cut or broken to the very base.

Fruit tree grafting

This effective method growing a cutting of a valuable variety on a ready-made stock and a way to save space on the site. Optimal time for this - the second half of spring, when frosts are already excluded. Trees come out of dormancy in April-May, when the heat sets in. At this time, sap flow begins in the rootstock, and this is a prerequisite for successful vaccination. First of all, you need to prepare the stock. He needs to cut or cut skeletal branches.

Cuttings - scion - are usually grafted in several ways. One of the most famous and popular is for the bark with a cut in the bark. Several cuttings can be grafted onto the stem of a cutting (scion) at the same time. On the side, you need to carefully cut the bark. Insert the end of the scion cut obliquely there. The graft is fixed and lubricated with garden pitch.

For pruning trees, use special tool- secateurs, as well as other tools, among which the saw is indispensable.

Often used and grafting on the bark with a thorn. The main condition for the correct grafting of trees in this way is a T-shaped cutting of a part of the crown on the stock trunk. At the cutting, you need to make an oblique cut at the end, which is inserted into the spike of the stock. The scion is tightly fixed with a bandage.

Tip #2 Copulation is used if the rootstock and cutting are of the same thickness. Both on the stock and on the scion, oblique cuts 3-4 cm long should be made. Connect these parts with cuts and fix them tightly with a bandage.

Gardeners' mistakes when grafting

We must not forget to coat the slices with var. Otherwise, the vaccine will not take root.
A prerequisite for successful vaccination is care during the rehabilitation period.
Do not use poorly sharpened tools - the cuts will be uneven.
You can not store the cuttings in heat and in the light - they will become unsuitable for grafting.

Garden var from natural ingredients can be prepared independently according to this recipe:

Questions and answers about pruning and grafting fruit trees

Question number 1. Is tree pruning necessary in gardening?

With the help of pruning, fruit trees form a strong crown that can withstand the weight of the fruit. If the trees are not pruned at all after planting, they will form broom-like dense crowns. Their interior will not receive enough sunlight. On the one hand, this contributes to the development of pests and diseases, and on the other hand, it will adversely affect the quality of the crop. Pruning can also regulate the growth, development and fruiting of trees.

Question number 2. Until what age is the crown of fruit trees formed?

This process occurs after planting several years. The duration of the formation stage depends on the strength of the growth of the tree, on the fruit species, on the perceived type of crown. For example, palmettes are formed in 3-4 years, and a cupped or improved longline crown in 7-8 years.

Question number 3. How to prepare a scion correctly?

The cuttings should be 3 cm thick in diameter, 45 cm long. They should be of a pure variety. If your climate zone is different severe frosts, then you need to harvest the scion late autumn or early winter.

Question number 4. When is the best time of year to get vaccinated?

It is best to graft in the spring. Harvesting a scion is best in the fall. If the winter turned out to be warm, then it can be prepared immediately before vaccination.

In order for a fruit tree or shrub to give a bountiful harvest, it must not only be watered and fed, but also cut. Why are some plants pruned in the fall and some in the spring?

Shrubs also need pruning. You need to pay attention to:, blackberry,. The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown to allow enough light to pass through. This in turn will lead to active growth of the shrub and an increase in yield. Pests will attack the bush in smaller numbers.

Blackcurrant pruned:

During the dormant period, that is, while there are no leaves and buds on the tree. Also, the operation can be carried out during the harvest.
Berries appear not only on mature, but also on young shoots. But on old branches, the harvest is not so plentiful, and the berries are not so juicy. You can identify old branches by color, they are darker.
On a young bush there should be up to 10 large branches. The rest can be removed.
When the bush matures, only the oldest shoots are removed, their number will be 1/3 of all.
The remaining shoots are shortened either to the very base, or to the first bud.
New branches should be added from the roots, so after pruning, the bushes spud.

Raspberries and blackberries trimmed:

. This period begins at the end of summer.
Pruning is sanitary in nature, that is, diseased or dried branches are eliminated.
The fruits appear on the shoots of the second year.
After harvesting, they can be cut to the very base, and on new season leaves up to 10 branches.
Fruiting on the remaining branches will come next year.
Young branches themselves are weak, so they need a garter. If the region has a cold climate, then the garter is done in the spring, when the shelter is removed.
If the bush did not give a visible increase, then only the strongest shoots should be left, and the lateral processes should be shortened.

Gooseberries and currants are cut:

During the dormant period, when there are no leaves and buds on the shrub.
You can also carry out additional pruning in the summer. This is necessary for the formation of new growth in order to get more yield.
These shrubs produce berries on old branches, so you need to leave only 5 mature branches no more than 25 cm.

In summer, young branches are pruned, leaving only a few leaves. Thus, the shrub will give all its strength not to the formation of new greenery, but to the ripening of berries.

Bilberry (blueberry) pruned:

In winter or spring, before the period of active growth. Fruiting occurs on last year's lateral shoots.
Young shrubs are pruned only lightly or not touched at all.
Mature shrubs form, leaving equally mature branches, medium and new growth.
After sanitary pruning, young shoots are cut to 2 buds, which bore fruit last year. If the bush is too thick, then 1/3 of all old branches are cut off at the root.
After pruning, the bush must be mulched and sulfate fertilizers are applied.

Young and mature plants. In most cases, pruning is carried out in the spring to rejuvenate the tree and stimulate the growth of new shoots that will bear fruit in the future.

More information can be found in the video.