What is the correct scheme for pruning a pear in spring and autumn. Correct pruning of pears, timing, old and young, columnar trees Correct pruning of pears in spring scheme

Pear pruning takes place regularly for many years, because the crown is constantly growing, thickening, aging. The tree grows according to the program laid down by nature, and a person corrects this process in order to get a harvest, preferably annually.

What is pruning

For fruit trees use several pruning techniques depending on the season, the age of the tree and the goal.

Types of trimming:

1. Formative - is of decisive importance in the first 5–6 years, when the crown of the fruit tree is actively formed; held in the spring.
2. Thinning - a permanent operation applied to a pear of any age; the tops that thicken the shoots are removed.
3. Sanitary - performed in the fall; remove abnormally growing (inside the crown, rubbing), dry and diseased branches.
4. Rejuvenating - old trees need it, which, as a rule, dries out the upper half of the "body"; pruning is done to healthy wood.

When is the best time to prune a pear

Pruning is carried out in spring at temperatures from 0 ° C to stable + 5 ° C, but before the start of sap flow, when the buds start to grow. Dates for regions are always individual, but, in general, this time comes in March-April.

In summer, starting in June, pinching is carried out - pinching off the tops of young shoots. What for? The forces for the growth of shoots in length are directed to the formation of fruits, the ripening of fruits is accelerated.

From late August to mid-September, when the sap flow slows down, autumn pruning is carried out. Before frost, living wood on cuts and cuts will dry out thoroughly and the risk of freezing will be minimal.

Pruning rules:

• use a sharp instrument, periodically disinfect it;
• the branches are cut into a ring, leaving no stumps, which heal slowly, and are also overgrown with a brush of tops (what does it mean to cut into a ring? At the base of each branch there is a cambial ring - a thickening or sagging at the point where the branch joins the trunk, the cut is made parallel to the line of the ring with outside);
• thick branches are cut down in different ways:
  • in the first run, half of the branch is cut, then the cut passes along the intended line;
  • the first cut is made from below, the second and final cut from above (so the cut fragment will not pull the bark behind it, the cut is smooth and quickly tightens);
• if the tree is neglected, work is carried out in several stages so as not to weaken it;
• cuts are covered with linseed oil or paint based on it, garden varnish, paraffin or Ranet (artificial bark);
• remove a certain number of branches, because excessive pruning provokes the growth of a large number of tops.

The cut runs along the outer edge of the cambial ring

How pears respond to pruning

Sometimes a pear reacts to pruning not the way you would like it to, and grows “in the wrong steppe”. Such disobedience depends on the variety and its inherent type of growth. So sometimes easy trimming combined with other techniques, for example, bending.

There are varieties with apical (apical) dominance of shoots, there are varieties with lateral. There are good shoots, there are bad ones. There are varieties with right angle shoots, there are acute ones (mesotonic and basitonic).
Varieties with a mesotonic type of branching with wide angle branch branches: In memory of Yakovlev, August dew, Swallow. It is a pleasure to form such varieties - we cut off a young seedling to a stem height of + 20 cm and remove unnecessary side shoots in summer - the tree forms itself. The forming scheme for such pears is sparse-tiered.
And a variety like Bryanskaya Krasavitsa has top dominance. Those. all the strength of growth goes into one single shoot, which simply clogs the rest. It is impossible to form such a tree by pruning! When pruning, one or two shoots are obtained, but with such sharp angles that they literally run parallel to the trunk. Such varieties are formed by horizontal cordons. This is when one shoot is driven out, and then it is bent. The shoots that have grown from the places of bending are thinned out and again bend in the opposite direction, etc.

This technique cannot be bypassed in any way - bending down or pulling branches up (for drooping crowns) to give them a horizontal position. It is on these branches that most flower buds are laid. Skeletal branches are not folded back. Bending back non-lignified shoots in spring and summer is more productive, safer, easier and takes less time. With spring bending, the branches will quickly take new form, but if this is done in the fall, there will be zero sense - you cannot tell a sleeping branch that it needs to be fixed in a new position. Lignified branches also bend back, but this is not an example harder to do, physical strength and extreme caution will be required so as not to break off anything. The process takes place gradually, step by step, so it will not be possible to keep within one season.

Sharp angles of branching - a zone of constant risk

If a branch departs from the trunk at the desired (not acute) angle, and then rushes sharply into the sky, it is deflected to a more horizontal position. A twine loop is attached at a distance of 2/3 of the branch length from the trunk, the second end is fixed to a stake driven into the ground or to the trunk, or a spacer is placed between the branch and the trunk. Too deflected branches attract upward, which interfere with weeding, loosen the earth. They are fixed to the trunk or to a pole that is tied to the trunk. A ring is attached to the upper end of the pole, through which one or more garters are passed. To prevent the twine from cutting into the bark, a lining is placed on the branch under it. Otherwise, the cord or twine will cut into the bark, disrupting the movement of nutrients, the branch dries up, becomes fragile and dies off.

You can bend a pear branch in a variety of ways.

Bending is great for shaping the crown of a dwarf pear. Branches 15 cm long are bent horizontally, shoots are cut out at an acute angle, and the stem is shortened so that it is 40 cm higher than the upper branch. In the next season, the resulting horizontal shoots 30 cm long are left for the ovaries, and stronger and longer cm) cut into several buds. The stronger dominant branches are cut into a ring, the central conductor is again shortened to the same height as before.

Pinning

Carried out in June with a pruner or with your fingers. The top of a young growth with 4–5 leaves is pinched. After 10 days, the procedure is repeated, i.e., the pinching will take place three times in a month. Pinching slows down the growth of the crown in length and nutrients go to the fruit.

Video: punching pears in summer

The secret to pruning pears with different crown shapes

In general, the pruning technology is the same for a tree with any crown shape, but there is little nuance... In pyramidal pears, the crown is "unfolded" - the shoots are cut to the outer bud, that is, located on the outside. New shoots grow more deflected, more flower buds are laid on them, the crown becomes more luxuriant, better illuminated. You can replace the pruning of branches growing upwards by bending down.

Formation of a crown-shaped crown

The crown of pears with drooping shoots is raised: the cut on the branch passes over the inner bud. In the future, the growth is turned into the crown and, as it were, raises it. This technique does not in any way impair fruiting, but makes the crown more compact and facilitates the cultivation of the soil in the near-trunk circles.

Forming a pear into a bowl

The appropriate shape is given to the crown by sawing off the central conductor on purpose or when it is frozen, sick, or shriveled up. Skeletal branches of the first order surround the resulting void and the whole picture resembles a bowl. The advantage of this form is that the branches, both outside and inside, receive enough sunlight and are well ventilated.

Formation of the crown-bowl

Video: the main types of pear shaping

Pruning young pears in spring

Purpose of trimming young tree consists in the gradual formation of a ventilated and well-lit crown, capable of withstanding the load of the fruit.

What is "Godasik"

This affectionate word often referred to as annual seedlings. By the way, novice gardeners may have difficulty in determining the age of the seedling. The answer is simple: a seedling that has lived through a season is considered an annual. That is, a pear planted last fall or this spring is considered one year old.

Before buying a pear seedling of a favorite variety, the first thing to do is to assess the condition of the root system - it should be fibrous, with whole tips, moistened. If the plant is sold with a closed root system (in a bag), lightly pick out the bark with your fingernail. The lower layer of green indicates that the seedling is alive and healthy, if the brown one is dry, there will be no sense from it.

Godovasik usually has a length of 80–100 cm and looks like a twig, as a rule, without side shoots or there will be one or two of them, but very short. Therefore, pruning at the first stage is the most unpretentious and will not raise questions even from the "teapot".

Cutting a one-year-old pear

The seedling is planted according to all the rules on permanent place, fixed to the peg and immediately thereafter trimmed with pruning shears. Pears grafted on a vigorous seed stock are pruned at a height of 70 cm from the ground directly above the bud. And the seedlings obtained by grafting on a vegetatively propagated rootstock (dwarf) are shortened to a height of up to 50 cm. (Such nuances are specified with the seller). If you had to plant a pear with damaged roots, it is cut a little more, about 10 cm, giving it strength to restore the roots.

Sapling metamorphosis during the first year

The shortened stem (or central conductor) will still grow upward, it will release a shoot from the upper bud under the cut, and several lateral shoots will appear. At first, they will be grassy - green, delicate and thin, and only with time will they turn into powerful skeletal branches. The skeleton, in turn, will be overgrown with semi-skeletal branches with leaves, buds and flowers. After a while, shoots will appear below the vaccination site, which should be removed. It will draw on some of the nutrients, create shade, but will not give high-quality fruits.

Learning to prune a branch correctly

Pruning a pear seedling in the second year

Two-year-old seedlings usually have 6–8 lateral shoots, of which skeletal branches are formed. To do this, leave 3-4 branches (the rest are cut into a ring), evenly spaced around the circumference and spaced from each other in height by about 15-20 cm. For a person who has taken up gardening for the first time, for clarity, you can imagine an umbrella, where the rod is trunk, and the needles - lateral shoots. Only in our case, these knitting needles, that is, the shoots, are not located at the same level, but each slightly higher than the other. The angle of deviation of skeletal branches from the trunk should not be too sharp - 45-50 °.Anywhere in the tree, such sharp joints when strong wind easily split, leaving deep wounds that are difficult to heal.

A sharp angle is the most unreliable for wood, it splits easily

Skeletal branches are cut by ¼ on the outer bud, but in such a way that each of them is slightly lower than the previous one. Thus, the principle of subordination is fulfilled - the branches growing below should not rise above the growing ones. The lateral branches at the ends of the skeletal branches, resembling bird legs, make the continuation shorter than the shoot. The central conductor (trunk) is cut so that it rises 25 cm above the rest. If a competitor shoot has grown next to the central conductor (and it will definitely grow at an acute angle), it is cut into a ring. If the pear is rapidly stretching upward, the central conductor is cut off to the first weak lateral shoot, and so that it grows vertically, it is pulled to the peg with twine.

2-year-old pear pruning

Competitors also grow on skeletal branches (the end of the shoot resembles a bunch), they are also cut into a ring. After pruning, nitrogen fertilization is excluded so that the tree will use all the forces to heal the saw cuts, and not build up the green mass. It happens that one branch grows on top of another. In the future, the top will shade the bottom one, they will get confused, so one of them is removed.

3-year-old pear pruning

For the first sitting, the central conductor is cut off to ¼ of the height, about 25 cm is left from the new growth, the rest is cut off to the inner kidney (so that the crown is not spreading). The next season, competitors of the central conductor are amputated on the skeletal branches. Powerful tops are cut into a ring, and thin ones are folded back, shortened by a quarter, turning them into semi-skeletal productive branches. All branches with an acute angle of departure, as well as those that violate the harmonious structure of the crown, are removed. If the stem is low and the lower skeletal branches lean to the ground, they are shortened. In general, pruning a 3 year old tree is similar to working with a 2 year old sapling.

Pruning a 3-year-old and a 2-year-old pear is very similar.

4-year-old pear pruning

At this age, the second tier is laid, observing the already known rules:

• to avoid sharp corners branching off the trunk;
• removal of competitors;
• subordination - the upper tier should not overlap the lower, the central conductor is longer than the branches.

Annual growths on four-year-old pears are not shortened, so as not to activate growth processes. Branches that are knocked out of the general pattern are cut into an annual ring or fruitful wood; eliminate tops.

Pruning a four-year-old pear also comes down mainly to thinning and eliminating competing shoots.

Mature trees

By the age of five, the crown of a pear is considered formed and does not require special intervention for several years. A tree aged from 6 to 8 years old looks like a self-sufficient bourgeois with a leisurely routine. The shortening of branches is minimized, because their annual growth is noticeably reduced. Pruning is mainly aimed at keeping the tree in good health.

Over time, the crown of adult pears gradually thickens and the overgrowing twigs will receive less sunlight. In this case, thinning is carried out, which is stretched for 2-3 years. Why so long? To maintain a balance between the crown and its "reflection" - the roots. The thinning procedure begins in the spring. In one sitting, two or three-year-old thick branches, the diameter of which is half the diameter of the central conductor, are cut down into a replacement knot inside the crown. No more than two such branches are removed at a time.

Pruning to a replacement knot helps replace old branches with new ones

The branch is shortened to a fruiting branch, and the shoot located below is cut into two buds - this will be a replacement knot. By the way, when they say "cut off by two or five, etc. buds", it means that this number of buds remains on the shortened shoot. The next year, shoots grow from the buds left on the replacement knot. They will perform the functions of the previous branch, therefore they are also called replacement. The trunk or central conductor is shortened to 3–3.5 m. Places near the cuts are overgrown with a brush of young shoots (future tops) from awakened buds, they are broken out at the end of May.

It is good to teach others when the pear under the window itself begs (now I just feel it) to be "combed". The tree is 10 years old, appearance resembles a cypress, height 3 m. Fruits in a year, the minimum weight of the fruit is 250 g, no one remembers the name of the variety. So, on this specimen, it is necessary to remove the competitors of the central conductor, subordinate the skeletal branches and cut them to the outer bud. After a spell in Paint, I got a pretty nice version of the updated pear.

Removing many competitors and pruning side branches should encourage lateral branching

Video: pruning an adult pear

Pruning an old pear

A tree from 15 years old and older is considered an aksakal and requires radical rejuvenation. A signal for this is a decrease in growth to 15–20 cm. Rejuvenating pruning of pears is carried out gradually over two to three seasons, and work begins in the spring before bud break. Rejuvenation is best done after a lean year, when an abundance of flower buds has formed on the tree.

After rejuvenating pruning, bald branches grow overgrown with twigs

If there are several thick dry branches, they are cut down several each year, the wounds are covered with garden var. Then the cuts are wrapped in a dark film until September, so the cuts will tighten 2-3 times faster. The annual growth is shortened by ¼ from its total length... Also cut off "wrong" branches - growing inward, vertically and crisscrossing.

Pruning frozen trees

Depending on the degree of frost damage, appropriate pruning is carried out. If the top of an annual pear planted in the fall is frozen, it is cut to 1/3 of its length. However, this operation is shown to all one-year-old seedlings, therefore, the frost does not seem to cause much harm.

Older trees with a developed branch system have a more rigid pruning character. First, the branches are examined, revealing lesions - the wood in these places is brown or black. If the branch is mostly or completely frozen, it is cut into a ring. Affected tops are trimmed back to healthy wood.

The phased pruning of thick branches is convenient for humans and does not injure the tree

Performing such pruning, they think first of all about the health of the tree, the beauty of the crown is relegated to the background. It is important that dormant buds wake up, which will give impetus for the growth of new shoots. And only after the "stump" overgrowth with twigs it will be possible to talk about the formation of the crown.

Features of pruning pears in various regions, including Siberia

In the zone of risky gardening, especially in the Urals, in Siberia, pear pruning by a bush is cultivated. A tree of just this shape is easier to cover in a frosty winter. For this, a stem is formed with a height of 10-15 cm, the skeletal branches are placed in random order. Crown formation of young trees is accompanied by moderate pruning of skeletal branches and thinning of semi-skeletal branches. In the fifth year, the central conductor is shortened at the level of the upper skeletal branches of the first order. It turns out a tree-bush with a height of about 2-2.5 m, and more is not needed. The restoration of the crown is carried out at the expense of tops, shortening them by a third of the length.

In the most inappropriate, at first glance, regions, the stanza crown shape is practiced. Saplings are planted at an angle of 45 ° with their head to the south, and within three years they form 2–4 skeletal branches about 1 meter long, constantly bending them down. Then, on each branch, 2 vertical shoots are left, cutting off all the rest.

A completely different picture is emerging in the Crimea with a favorable climate. Here, pear pruning can be done practically all year round, the risk of freezing occurs only in certain years, which is rare.

Illiterate rejuvenation of an overgrown pear at Stakhanov's pace in one season (up to 3-4 m in height and in diameter) is fraught with freezing of the tree even mild winter... And if you cut the crown gradually, every year by 1–2 m in height and width, it will take several years and all this time the yield will be barely. Starting from the Central region, it is recommended to apply anti-aging pruning according to the method of V.I.Susov (Moscow Agricultural Academy named after K.A.Timiryazev). Its essence lies in the gradual thinning of the crown, starting with the half that is most illuminated by the sun.

The trimmed part of the crown should have a height of 3 m and a width of 2 m. Externally, the picture is somewhat reminiscent of a pie from which a wedge was cut. Half of the tops that appear are cut into a ring, the rest are shortened and folded back to stimulate the formation of flower buds. All this time, the remaining jungle continues to delight with juicy large fruits.

Original rejuvenation of a fruit tree according to the method of V.I.Susov

When the tops begin to bear fruit in 4–5 years, they rejuvenate the second part of the crown and at the same time rejuvenate the roots. To do this, in the fall or spring of the year of pruning, a semicircular trench 75 cm deep is dug under the trimmed part of the crown at a distance of 2 m from the trunk in accordance with the width of the trimmed crown. Exposed large and small roots are cut with an ax or cut with a saw. This operation stimulates the rooting process. (Note that such work requires certain skills, if not mastery). The ditch is covered with humus and top layer removed earth in a ratio of 1: 1. For heavy soil add river sand and pebbles in the amount of 20% of the total amount of excavated earth. At the same time, the winter hardiness of the pear remains at the same level, and the life span is extended by 20-30 years.

Video: pruning the crown of a pear for beginner gardeners

The first 3-4 years of life, when their crown is formed, are decisive for a pear. The following years are devoted mainly to keeping the crown in good shape. The quality of the pruning and the health of the pear depends on correct technique cutting, protection of cuts, tool cleanliness and timely work.

Growing a pear is a simple activity consisting of irrigation, fertilization and pruning, which is performed in spring and autumn. If you adjust the crown annually by removing excess shoots, the pear tree will bear many sweet fruits and delight you with health. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the features of this important part of tree care.

Cutting methods and types

Pears are pruned using two techniques:

• shortening - cutting off the crown of the branch;
• thinning - complete cutting off the shoot per ring.

Adjusting the height of the tree and the density of the crown makes it easier to harvest, control pests and diseases. In columnar pears, pruning is aimed at thinning growths, giving a decorative look.

For the intended purpose, the following types of trimming are distinguished.

• Formative. It is used for young individuals before entering the season of fruiting. Provides for the creation of a strong skeleton of a certain shape.
• Supportive. It is necessary for specimens that have entered the season of fruiting. By adjusting the number of fruiting branches, the tree manages to correctly distribute nutrients, which has a beneficial effect on the quantity and quality of the crop.
• Anti-aging. Applicable to mature specimens that have crossed half the life span. Based on the removal of non-fertile wood. Stimulates the growth of new fruit formations, prolongs the fruiting and life of the culture.

Proper annual pruning manages to get sweet juicy fruits, because sugars in them accumulate only under the influence of solar radiation.

When to prune pears?

The pear is pruned throughout the growing season. It is important for beginners to know that most of the activities are carried out during the dormant period of the plant.

Spring and summer works

Each spring, to maintain the balance of the branches, the crown is formed, old shoots are cut out, and excess growth that thickens the crown is removed. Among the shortcomings of spring pruning, unstable weather and tight deadlines are noted.

Therefore, it is important to adhere to the following rules.

• Choose the date for the event in accordance with the weather conditions of the region.
• Proceed with the correction after establishing a stable positive temperature.
• Check with the forecasts of weather forecasters to exclude return frosts.
• In the spring, you need to cut the pear strictly before the juice starts to move, while the plant is at rest.

In summer, the plant is not subjected to global intervention. Only branches that are sick or broken under the mass of fruit are cut off.

Autumn pruning of pears

Autumn is considered the optimal time for corrective work. In Central Russia and in a more severe climate, pear pruning should be done at the very beginning of autumn. In the South of Russia, a later haircut is acceptable, which is carried out in October.

Autumn work involves cutting off damaged and diseased branches, shortening annual growth by a third, and adjusting the silhouette.

If a large number of branches are to be removed, it is better not to risk the health of the tree and leave some of the work for the spring.

Cutting the tree too much for the winter is not worth it, the cuts are subject to severe freezing.

Winter work

The advantages of winter pruning:

• you can see the crown well due to the lack of deciduous cover;
• the pear is at rest, the cuts will not cause tangible damage to it;
• infection of the wound with fungi is excluded;
• the absence of juice in the wound surface allows the cut to tighten faster.

It should be remembered that in winter, crown formation is permissible only in adult specimens that have entered the time of fruiting. The event should be held after the termination severe frostsas soon as the temperature stops dropping below -15⁰C.

Required tools

To prune fruit crops, you will have to acquire a whole set of tools.

You will need:

• secateurs;
• garden saw;
• lopper;
• garden shears and knife;
• garden var or other composition for treating wounds.

All can be bought in the garden center. Be sure to maintain sharpness and disinfect the tool before and after cutting.

To disinfect the instrument, you can use a strong solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, alcohol, bleach.

Pear pruning rules

Correction of the pear crown in autumn is aimed at achieving a high and high-quality harvest next year.

You can get the desired result only if you follow the rules listed below.

• Do not remove more than 25% of the total wood mass at a time. In order not to cause severe stress to the plant, stretch the event over several seasons.
• The pruner should be guided with a small blade towards the shoot to be removed.
• Cut into the ring without gouging or hemp.
• Skeletal shoots big size cut out in stages - first the cut is made from below, then from above. This approach will avoid peeling the bark.
• The wounds are smeared with garden varnish or special composition based on natural paint (drying oil).

If a cardinal pruning was performed in the spring, exclude top dressing. The tree will redistribute soil resources among the remaining shoots.

How to prune different types of pears correctly?

The pruning technology depends not only on the season, but also on the type of pear and its age.

The primary shaping of the seedling is carried out only in the spring of next year, since there is a high risk of freezing of the young. The seedling for the first time after planting will hurt due to damage to the roots. Pruning some of the shoots will help speed up the adaptation process.

In a young pear, in the first 4-5 years, it is necessary to form a correct skeleton that can withstand the weight of the fruit. This quality is favored by a sparse-tiered crown of a pyramidal shape.

For forming, use the following scheme.

1. Shorten the stem height of the seedling by a quarter.
2. Select 2-4 branches to create the bottom tier.
3. Balance the length of the branches and the conductor by cutting the branches so that the stem is 20 cm longer.
4. Cut the rest of the increments.
5. If the branches are growing at the wrong angle (more than 60⁰), immediately start bending. To do this, tie them to a peg, having previously tilted them horizontally.
6. After 1-2 years, you can begin to form the second tier of the skeleton. The procedure remains the same.
7. When the plant is 5-6 years old, cut the conductor at the height of the upper branch of the skeleton. This will limit the growth of the tree upward.

In the future, autumn pruning is supportive. Every year, a third of the annual growths are removed, old and diseased twigs, tops are cut off. Thin the crown, directing the bends to the outside.

Correction of the crown of a ripe pear

An old pear needs rejuvenating pruning to increase yields. The action is reduced to the removal of branches that have ceased to bear fruit. It is best to prune the tree in early spring... Mature specimens are pruned in stages, trying not to cause serious damage to the tree. For 3-4 years, you need to leave on the trunk two tiers of powerful skeletal branches (5-7 pieces), located in increments of 1 meter. In addition to rejuvenation, be sure to maintain the correct density, balance of the branches.

You should not expect a large harvest from rejuvenated pears. Over time, the tree will distribute resources and resume fruiting.

Formation of columnar trees

Columnar pear is a short tree up to two meters in height. This crop does not have intensive lateral growth. There are short fruit branches on the trunk. Pruning is carried out in order to dilute and preserve the compactness of the culture. To increase yields, in the fall, some of the branches are completely removed, providing good ventilation and light for fruit development. The remaining shoots are cut at the level of the second or third bud. The crown of the columnar pear is never trimmed.

Knowing how to properly prune pears, you can achieve maximum crop productivity, avoid possible problems with fungal diseases. The event will help maintain the necessary dimensions of the culture and facilitate the process of leaving.

The formation of the crown of a pear is an important procedure, if not vital for a fruit tree. Especially if the gardener wants to collect a regular rich harvest. Pear pruning is carried out in different seasons and has different goals. Want to know which ones? Then read on.

As soon as the pear you have planted enters the fruiting period, it needs regular formative pruning. And it's not just that it's much easier to harvest from the branches of a formed tree - you will also notice a significant increase in the number of fruits. In addition, such a procedure will benefit the plant itself:

• the culture is rejuvenating;
• branches are strengthened;
• if you regularly prune the crown of a pear, you will be able to form its high-quality skeleton;
• the formation of the pear crown has a beneficial effect on the condition of the bark;
• using this procedure, it is possible to extend the period of active fruiting;
• more sunlight gets to the ovaries;
• the taste of fruits improves, they themselves increase in size;
• crown possesses and medicinal properties - the procedure is preventive measure to diseases carried by pests living in cracks in the bark.

If you neglect the pruning procedure and do not carry out regular crown formation, your pear will only need a few years to run wild irrevocably.

Another problem that almost all gardeners face is spinning tops. These are strong lateral shoots (formed on skeletal branches) that must be removed. Before forming the crown of a pear, be sure to check for tops - we remove them first. Tops never give fruit, but only thicken the crown, taking away from the tree vitality... The most powerful foliage always develops on tops, which also feeds on plant juices.

Tops are easy to recognize - they almost always grow strictly vertically.

Types and purposes of crowning

Regardless of how old your tree is, its crown is formed in two main ways - thinning (when the branches are removed directly at the base) and shortening (when only part of the fruiting cutting is cut off so that the branches become thicker and rejuvenate).

As for the main goals of the procedure, there are 3 of them:

1. Formation. Creation of a clear shape of the crown of a young pear.
2. Support. We keep the yield indicators, take care of the health of the tree.
3. Rejuvenation. Extension of the fruiting period of the culture.

Features of pruning in winter

Any manipulations related to cropping, better in winter do not conduct. But if you are serious about gardening, it is best to do it in February, choosing a relatively warm day when the air temperature does not drop below -15 ° C. It is advisable to start with those trees that have already turned several years old - in such plants, the buds wake up much earlier.

Spring pruning features

Most experienced gardeners are unanimous in the opinion that spring pruning is optimal. fruit crops... During this period, the leaves of the pear have not yet woken up, sap flow is practically absent, respectively, it will be easier for the tree to overcome the consequences of the procedure. You need to choose the time for the manipulation so as to protect your garden from sudden frosts and strong temperature fluctuations.

How and when to prune a pear in the spring will depend on the region in which it grows. So, in the southern gardens, this procedure is carried out in the first two weeks of March, in middle lane Russia and further east - no later than early April.

Spring pruning is best tolerated by pear seedlings at the age of 1–2 years. For all other trees, the following scheme is practiced:

• remove all branches and shoots on which clear signs of freezing are noticeable;
• we remove all shoots that grow incorrectly or crookedly;
• we shorten the trunk - by about 25%.

There is one trick that will help to minimize injury to the bark in the area of \u200b\u200bthe cut branches: when you cut the shoot "into a ring", first file it from the bottom, and only then cut it off completely.

After such manipulations, the active development of the lateral shoots of the tree begins, those buds that are located below the cuts wake up.

Summer pruning features

Prune pear trees in the summer only if necessary. Such manipulation is allowed no later than June, while only damaged branches or too violent young shoots can be removed without resorting to radical formative measures.

Features of pruning in the fall

Autumn manipulations with the crown are of a sanitary nature. All dried twigs are removed from the tree, one-year-old lashes are cut by about a third. It is important to choose the right time: the next three weeks after the procedure there should be no frosts, so try to cope with all the manipulations in early September.

Pruning seedlings, young and old trees

For the first time, pear seedlings after planting are subject to pruning in the fall. On the main shoot, the first bud should be selected, from which we will determine the shoots to be pruned. The three ovaries located above the first bud also need to be removed. Now we find the fifth bud, located on the opposite side of the trunk - it will become the basis for the second branch of the crown skeleton. But the kidneys from 6 to 8 should be removed.

As a rule, any manipulations when planting a young tree give it the opportunity to more actively form the crown.

In the second year after planting, young pears should be shortened by about a quarter of the height. In addition, it is necessary to remove all branching shoots, cutting them to the first bud.

In the next few years, all pruning manipulations will be identical - you form the crown and carry out sanitary cleaning. From about the fifth year of the tree's life, the growth of lateral shoots will gradually stop, so the intensity of work decreases. For the next 5–7 years, you will have only sanitary pruning for purely medicinal purposes.

Formation of the crown of columnar pears

The cultivation of columnar fruit trees in our country is rapidly gaining popularity - it is customary to plant them on almost every personal plot... Planting and caring for a columnar pear is not difficult with one exception - the trees need regular pruning.

Before starting the procedure, carefully examine the top: if the kidney is healthy, the tree has a central conductor; if not, it is worth choosing the strongest lateral shoot, removing all others. In a young seedling, it is better to shorten the side shoots - this way you will not provoke their intensive growth.

Now you know what to do so that your pear garden is always generous with the harvest.

Video "Formation of the crown of a pear"

In this video, you will learn how to properly shape the crown of a pear.

In order for the pear tree to develop quickly and delight us with a bountiful harvest, you need to know only three rules:

1. Correct tree planting;
2. Correct pear handling, which includes:
   • root top dressing;
   • mulching;
   • pruning;
   • watering;
   • foliar feeding.
3. Proper winter care.

Spring pruning: goals, objectives and types

Pruning a fruit tree has several purposes:

• thinning and crown formation, which provides maximum amount sunlight, which is very important for such a light and heat-loving tree like a pear;
• reducing the growth of young shoots, which allows you to redirect the flow of juices and nutrients to the fruits;
• tree height control, which can shade its neighbors and prevent them from developing correctly.

The tasks that the gardener faces in the process of pruning a fruit tree are the correct sequence of actions, which is the key to an excellent result.

Types of trimming:

• shaping - creating the correct crown;
• sanitary - removal of diseased or dried branches;
• rejuvenating (supporting) - removal of part of large branches.

Before you start pruning fruit trees, you need to read the recommendations from specialist gardeners.If you start pruning without knowing the basic rules, there is a high risk of serious damage to the tree., which will lead either to his death or to the destruction of the crop.

Timingtrimming pears in spring

The exact timing of this type of care is difficult to determine unequivocally, because it depends on the region of growth and on specific weather conditions.

Spring pruning of pear trees should be started before sap flow in the branches, that is, after the frost time has passed, at a stable daytime temperature of +5° C ... In temperate Russian latitudes, this period usually begins in the 3rd decade of March or at the very beginning of April. Thus, mid-March is the time for sanitary pruning, April-May is the main pruning period.

It is also worth listening to the recommendations of the lunar calendar: successful pruning should be carried out with the waning moon, a few days before the new moon. Manipulation is especially effective if it is done on Fruit Days. This is the name of the days when the moon passes the signs of Leo, Sagittarius and Aries.

Find out the exact auspicious days for pruning pears by lunar calendar in the spring of 2019, you can at.

• Always use only sharp and clean tools for work, which must be disinfected before and after.
• Before you start pruning a pear, prepare a garden var or Rannet for processing the sections.
• Do not prune wood in subzero temperatures.
• Decide in advance what age pear tree you are going to prune, as the pruning sequence is different for young and old trees.
• The priority is correct formation crown of a pear, otherwise fractures and death of the tree are likely. More on video:

• As the pear matures, the rate of emergence of shoots decreases, shaping pruning is allowed once every two to four years, but this does not negate the annual sanitary pruning, since there are always broken or frozen branches on an overwintered pear tree.
• You do not need to cut trees too much at a time, because this way they will activate all their strength for a speedy recovery, release new shoots that will surpass the height of the tree in a couple of years. It is best to divide this process into several parts of stages - some branches are pruned in the first year, the second part after a year.
• It is always necessary to remove shoots that grow parallel to the central trunk - they do not bear fruit, but at the same time they "take" water and nutrients.
• On the trunk always need to leave not less four side branches, which should be at an angle of 45 °.
• When cutting branches, do not remove excess, but do not leave stumps. An annular ridge on the bark (“ring”), clearly visible at the base of the branches, should serve as a reference point. It is there that tissues "live", which will help to quickly heal wounds to restore the tree. If the incision is made too deep, the wound will heal for a very long time.

Correct spring pruning

Instruments : A narrow blade garden pruner is most commonly used for this work.A hand or even a chainsaw is used to trim the old branches of neglected trees.

Pear trees different ages trimmed differently:

• Annual seedlings are cut at a height of about 50-70 cm from the ground, which leads to the growth of branches from the lower buds.

• If we are dealing with a two-year-old seedling, its main stem is pruned by 25%, and competing branches are pruned under the "ring".

• By an adult tree, under whichmeans pears 8-10 years old,unnecessary forks are removed, of which there are too many,ramifications , due to which there is a lack of nutrition.In this case, it is important to both thinning the crown and shortening the shoots.

• Old trees are cut immediately after the end of the winter cold, but only until leaves and buds appear on the branches,at the same time, anti-aging pruning begins from the lower branches, with a gradual transition to the upper ones. In the middle and late spring, only young shoots of such pears are shortened.

Correct, consistent pruning of a pear tree throughout its life increases yields and reduces the risk of disease. Gardener's mistakes, due to his inexperience or unwillingness to adhere to the rules, when pruning a pear can lead to best case, deterioration of productivity, at worst - to the death of the fruit tree.

The sequence of actions when pruning pear trees:

1. Delete shoots that grow from the trunk at an angle of 90 °.
2. Cut off those that grow vertically and have a parallel direction to the central trunk.
3. We prune the skeletal branches by about 25%,while watching so that their tops are even.
4. The shoots, which are the "base" for the formation of a new ovary, must be carefully bent down or given a horizontal position by tying them.

The technique of cutting branches is also important:

Branches , whose diameter is thicker than three centimeters,sawed off as follows: first cut from below, then go upstairs. Otherwise, the bark may be damaged, and the branch will break under the weight.

And here the spring pruning of pears was carried out according to all the rules, but it should be remembered that the subsequent care of the tree is also important:

• Places of saw cut must be treated with garden pitch. If this work is not carried out, the trees will begin to "cry" and produce sap, which will become a real bait for insects and weaken the tree.For young seedlings, it is better to do this procedure not on the same, but the next day, let the pruning sites dry out.
• You should not "feed" the pear with top dressing after the work, because the tree will recover by itself, drawing out all substances and nutrients from the root system.

Video: Pruning pears in spring

In the summer, pruning of pears, as a rule, is not carried out, but such a procedure in the fall will also help to achieve a good and high-quality harvest. More about this can be read in the article ““.

There is no person who does not know the taste of pear. These juicy and sweet fruits will not leave anyone indifferent. And what compotes and jams are made from them!

Nowadays a pear can be found in almost any garden area.

This tree, like any plant in the garden, requires some care... So that year after year it gives good harvest, you need not only watering and fertilization, but also competent pruning.

Since the pear belongs to a light-loving culture, it is necessary to monitor the density of its crown.

What does the correct pruning of a pear give:

• abundant regular fruiting;
• further development of culture;
• creating a strong skeleton;
• convenience in harvesting;
• good accessibility when spraying.

It is necessary to form the crown so that several fruit branches remain on each skeletal branch.

If pruning is done irregularly or incorrectly, then the crown will become denser, as the tree will begin to devote all its strength to growing young growth. This will lead to lower yields and reduced fruit size.

Another plus of timely pruning of branches: the pear tree is quite tall, and pruning branches will stop its growth upward... Thanks to this, others garden trees and shrubs will get more sunlight.

Cutting the pear, instructions for beginners:

When is the best time to prune tree shoots and branches

You can trim the pear and in spring, and in summer, and in autumn, and even in winter. Pruning at certain times of the year has its own goals.

Summer care

Summer is done only when absolutely necessary... It happens that in the spring, during pruning, several branches were looked through, and they began to develop vigorously, shading with themselves the fruits that had already appeared on other, cut branches. In this case, summer pruning is possible.

A day after the "operation" carried out, it is necessary to cover the cut with garden varnish or special putty, which is sold in any gardening store.

Also at this time pinching of young shoots is carried out... It is much easier to remove them now, while they are not stiff, in addition, thanks to such cutting, the leaf buds are transformed into fruit buds.

Can branches be pruned in winter?

Winter pruning has some advantage... It lies in the fact that at this time of the year, when it is frosty outside, all the plants, including the pear, are in "sleep mode".

Therefore, the inflicted wounds are much easier to tolerate, healing is faster, and in the absence of juice, the wood becomes more pliable.

The most optimal month for winter pruning is February. The most optimum temperature - not higher than -15.

Spring pruning scheme

Spring pruning of pears is considered the most important for the plant., it guarantees a good harvest. In the spring, as you know, the budding occurs. This requires sunlight.

If in some place the crown turned out to be thickened, then a darkening will be created, respectively, there will be no flower buds there, which means there will be no fruits either.

To avoid this, pruning should start with a one-year-old seedlingwhen its height reaches 50-60 cm.

You need to cut off the top about a quarter of the length, which will stimulate the lower branches to grow and form the correct crown. The branches in the neighborhood are cut “into a ring”.

Cutting "on the ring" is done clearly in a kind of flowlocated at the very base of the branch. If you leave a large twig, it will lead to decay, and if you remove the branch flush, then the wound will heal for a very long time.

The branches that serve as the base of the trunk should be left, there should be no more than four of them.

As the tree matures, there are less and less young shoots on it. To remedy this situation and increase the number of young growth on an aging tree, it is necessary to regularly trim the crown, rejuvenate it.

Its goal is to remove weak and sick old branches. Sections must be covered with pitch or paint.

But it is also impossible to be late with this, it is important to have time to prune before the circulation of tree sap begins.

After spring pruning should not be applied under the pear nitrogen fertilizers ... This can adversely affect the taste of the fruit. After hibernation, the tree itself actively draws all the nutrients from the ground.

Pear pruning:

How you can and should cut a pear in the fall, rejuvenate it

Need to treat autumn pruning with great care... Winter is ahead, if too many branches are removed, it will be difficult for the tree to survive in the coming frosts.

The fact is that in September (namely, this is the best time for autumn pruning) the tree sap continues to circulate, although it becomes slower.

The tree will start spending the stored winter period substances to "heal" wounds left after pruning.

Scheme of the correct autumn pruning of pears:

1. First, remove dry and diseased branches so that in winter they do not cripple healthy branches when falling.
2. Find branches growing at right angles to the trunk and remove too.
3. Remove branches that interfere with the development of fruit. The rest of the branches that seem superfluous should only be shortened in order to remove them next year.
4. Do not leave large knots, but cut “on the ring” (see above).

Young pear should be pruned every fall, or even twice a year, starting from the second year after planting. Reason: slow growth and poor cold winter tolerance.

Mature trees early varieties ripening can be cut from the second half of August to September 15-20. The procedure is the same:

• removal of damaged branches;
• thinning of the thickened crown;
• removal of branches affected by the disease;
• shortening shoots no older than one year.

At a later date, shortening is not recommended, as the possibility of freezing of shortened branches increases, which will lead to a decrease in yield.

Autumn pruning of pears is the most efficient way return a good harvest from an aging tree. This pruning can be called anti-aging.

In addition, if earlier to form correct crown did not have to, then such pruning will provide an opportunity for thinning, which will lead to the emergence of young fruitful shoots.

If the pear is over 18 years old, then it is recommended to cut it once every five years.

How to form the crown of a columnar pear

Not so long ago, in Russian gardens began to appear columnar pear, which has already won the hearts of our gardeners. She differs from her tall "sisters" in her unpretentious care.

The main advantages of a columnar pear:

• always gives a rich harvest;
• on the same plot of land you can plant large quantity trees;
• takes root well;
• gives large fruits;
• resistant to various sores;
• hardy.

The disadvantages of this pear include the necessary regular pruning, since it is needed to maintain the specific shape and size of the tree. Another drawback is the short fruiting period (about ten years).

In the first year after planting the flowering of the pear should not be allowed so that the seedling gains strength for further growth.

Next year you need make sure that a maximum of two flowers remain in one inflorescence to prevent the young tree from overloading with fruits.

Advice for novice gardeners: before pruning, you need to pay attention to the apical bud. If it is healthy, then the tree has a central conductor.

If this kidney is damaged, then other shoots appear. Of these, the strongest should be left, the rest should be removed.

Column pears should not be cut frequentlyin order to prevent the increased formation of branches. In a young tree, shoots should not be cut off, but shortened, not forgetting to leave a couple of buds.

This should be done closer to autumn... Most importantly, remove all lateral shoots growing to the sides. The central conductor can be cut off only in one case: if its development is insufficient. Then two or three buds should be left.

Although a pear requires constant care and a lot of hassle with pruning, she gives all of herself without reserve for her divine fruits, giving the gardener joy and enjoyment of the results of his labor.