The main diseases of the peony. Gray rot is not the easiest opponent

This tall, lush flower came to us from China, where it has been grown since ancient times for medicinal needs. It was called "the flower of the emperor" and attributed to its magical properties. The tree peony (Paeonia x suffruticosa) or semi-shrub belongs to the species of hybrid plants of the genus Peony, is a representative of the peony family. It is often referred to as a group of varieties of hybrid origin. Sometimes the peony is called rosy, but this is only a characteristic of the appearance of the flower, and not a scientific classification.

Preparation for planting in open ground

Before planting in open ground, the roots are treated with anti-rot preparations, colloidal sulfur, or they are sprinkled with wood ash.

Landing dates

Different types of seedlings require their own planting time.

Grafted peonies, which can be bought in specialized stores, have a powerful root system. It will ensure the development and growth of the bush, so the tree can be placed in a pot with soil for the summer and placed in the garden. In the fall, the plant is transplanted to a permanent place.

Planting dates are not so significant: early spring - autumn. Planting a tree peony in autumn is suitable for self-rooted seedlings, that is, unvaccinated (they, as a rule, have a weak root system), sometimes it is carried out at the end of August, the season of intensive root growth. Autumn planting on a warm sunny day is considered the best. Unstable weather with frosts in spring, cold soil, cold air make the landing unsuccessful.

The Chinese adhere to rigid deadlines: one day before and one day after the equinox.

Choosing a place on the site

It is necessary to carefully choose a permanent place that meets the growing conditions of the peony, so that later it will not be transplanted for a longer time.

• A relatively large space protected from wind and direct sunlight.
• Predominantly alkaline soil.
• Lack of other flowers and trees with a wide root system in the neighborhood.
• Avoid areas with close proximity to groundwater.

A sunny place is a guarantee of rapid development and growth, a shaded place will prolong the flowering time and keep the flowers fresh.

A peony transplant is a big stress for him. They resort to it after 10 years, when there is no abundant flowering. At this time, it is advisable to transplant the bush to a new location.

Soil preparation

To grow a viable plant, the soil must be properly prepared.

The tree peony loves fertile, loose soil with low acidity.

Sand is added to heavy soil, fed with fertilizers. Humus and peat are introduced into the sandy soil. Clay soils require the introduction of sand and humus. The acidity is reduced by liming with dolomite flour.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Planting and caring for tree peonies is no different from caring for any garden plants.

The success of the cultivation largely depends on the right seedling. A seedling suitable for planting has:

• root system (not naked) in volume equal to the size of its crown;
• several adventitious roots up to 5 cm long;
• two to three (up to five) developed kidneys;
• lack of foliage;
• up to 25 cm high.

There are seedlings: grafted, the scion is taken from a tree-like peony, the root of a herbaceous peony serves as a stock; own-rooted, grown from cuttings of a tree plant. The gardener must decide on desired result: quickly but not for long or a long wait, which will be rewarded with many years of admiration for a luxurious bush. These tables show the advantages and disadvantages of two types of planting material.

Sapling type	Advantages	disadvantages	Differences
Vaccinated	Grows rapidly (up to 40 cm per season); forms shoots around the bush, which is used as planting material.	Short life; does not reproduce by dividing the bush; does not tolerate a transplant (you need to immediately plant it in a permanent place).	The roots of a herbaceous peony are cylindrical, thick (3-5 cm in diameter); the color is dark.
Rooted	Long-livers (50-100 years); profuse flowering 20-30 years; high vitality; resistant to disease and winter weather; reproduction by dividing the rhizome.	Slow growth rate; late flowering (at the age of 4-6 years); the need to remove overgrowth for good development of the bush.	Thin roots, 6-9 cm long; light colors.

Landing description

Correct fit is a guarantee successful cultivation peony. The sequence of operations is as follows:

• prepare a cone-shaped hole with a diameter and depth of at least 70 cm two weeks before planting;
• 6-7 days before planting, pour drainage (crushed stone, broken brick, sand), fill with a mixture of earth, compost with the addition of peat and dolomite flour, superphosphate and wood ash in the form of a mound;
• place the seedling on the surface of the mound, distributing the roots evenly;
• sprinkle with loose earth and lightly tamp around;
• pour (1-2 buckets of water);
• mulch so that the root collar is at the surface level, and the renewing buds are 5-6 cm lower.

Planting several bushes, maintain a distance between them of at least 2 m.

Shallow planting will lead to bare roots after winter and the death of the seedling, deep planting will lead to a lack of flowers.

Tree peony care

Planting and caring for tree peonies is not very different from caring for any garden plant.

Tree peony care includes:

• regular loosening of the soil;
• sufficient watering;
• weed removal;
• timely application of fertilizers required at different stages;
• installation of supports for large flowering bushes.

Selection and timing of fertilization

Correct and timely feeding of the plant allows you to achieve success in breeding the tree peony:

• intensive growth;
• wild flowering;
• absence of diseases.

When and what fertilizing is required, it is shown in the table:

When are made	What fertilizers	Method of application
After the snow melts	Nitrogen, potash (1: 1); ammonium nitrate (16-21 g); potassium salt or nitroamofosk (40-60 g). Disease prevention: potassium permanganate (2-3 g per 1 liter of water).	Spread over the surface, dig up, cover with compost.
The beginning of bud formation (two weeks before flowering).	Potash (40-50 g), phosphoric (20-30 g), (2: 1); infusion of mullein 10 l.	Liquid under a bush.
Simultaneously with watering	Wood ash; mineral: with a high concentration of potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen.	With watering.
Flowering period; at the end of flowering.	Repeat: potash (40-50 g), phosphoric (20-30 g).	Liquid under the bush
In autumn	Organic: compost, rotted manure.	With simultaneous digging.

Phosphate and potash fertilizers promote abundant flowering... Nitrogen and organic matter are essential for growth. A young seedling (up to 2-2.5 years old) is fed by the foliar method, irrigating the bush from a spray bottle (30-40 g of mineral fertilizers per 10 liters of water) after each watering. For an adult plant, such feeding is carried out three times a year:

• when new shoots appear;
• during the period of swelling of the kidneys;
• at the end of flowering.

Watering frequency and water quality requirements

At different stages of development, a peony requires a different amount of water. The need for one bush is 6-8 liters twice a month, taking into account the rains. Around the bush, grooves are made up to 15 cm deep at a distance of 20-25 cm.

In hot summers, it is necessary to monitor the moisture content of the soil and the type of bush, watering more often. Drying of the topsoil occurs two days after watering, then it is loosened to a depth of 5 cm, removing weeds. During flowering, when watering, exclude the ingress of water on the flowers. In August, they water less often, gradually reducing to nothing. Watering not with a strong stream (so as not to wash out the roots). Not recommended with too cold water. The best time is evening or night.

Causes and methods of pruning

When viewed in early spring, before the beginning of the growing season, damaged, dry and growing branches are cut out. The old shoots are shortened by 15 cm. Cut out some of the buds on young shoots so that they grow better.

Frost-affected branches should not be cut off immediately. They can come to life and buds bloom.

In the fall, do not prune because of the buds on last year's shoots. The pruning that forms the bush is done once every few years in early spring. After a harsh winter, if the plant is frozen, to restore it, the entire aboveground part is cut out to the surface of the earth. Tree peony does not tolerate pruning, it is enough to remove obsolete and damaged branches.

Preparing for winter

Tree peony - frost-resistant plant; it continues to grow when the cold days come. Therefore, special preparation for the winter season is needed. Watering should be stopped gradually. Prepare for winter by cutting off the peony leaves (2/3 of the length), when the temperature is slightly above zero. With the onset of October, the branches are tied together, they are mulched with peat around the bush.

In the Moscow region, where there are severe frosts, the plants are covered with branches, spruce branches, pine trees, giving them the shape of a hut. They tie it with a rope on top. The shelter will protect from branch breakage and damage to the buds, protecting the plant from the thickness of snow. With the onset of snowfalls, the hut is covered with snow. Young flexible bushes are bent to the ground, covered with leaves, covering them with spruce branches from above.

So that the bush does not swell, clean up the shelter in time.

In areas with guaranteed abundant snow cover, there is no need to cover.

Features of care during flowering and dormancy

Planting and caring for a tree peony at all stages of development requires attention, especially the flowering time (June) should be noted, during this period the plant needs:

• top dressing;
• abundant watering;
• loosening and mulching the soil.

Lush large bushes with flowers are propped up with rings in the form of racks.

When cutting flowers, it is necessary to leave the largest number of leaves on the bush, through which feed is supplied for the renewal buds laid for the next season. Large loss of leaves will weaken the bush. To achieve long-lasting flowering, wilted flowers are removed without removing the leaves, which causes new lateral buds to appear.

Proper care during this period lays the conditions for abundant flowering and plant health for the coming season.

The plant begins to prepare for the dormant period after flowering. At this time, for successful wintering, additional feeding is required (a mixture of wood ash and bone meal). Gradually reduce watering, eventually exclude it altogether. In the tree peony, only leaves fall, the stems overwinter.

Pests and diseases

Peony is resistant to disease. Diseases are not a consequence proper care, infected seedlings and garden tools. Weak and old bushes usually get sick.

The table shows the most common types of diseases, their manifestations and methods of treatment:

Diseases	The reasons	Signs	Methods and means of struggle
Gray rot or Botrytis	(the most dangerous fungal disease) Excess moisture in the ground; lack of sunlight; rainy weather.	The whole plant suffers, more often the young; grayish bloom on the leaves; darkening of the stems; young shoots soften and wither.	Cutting off infected leaves, burning them away from planting; irrigation of peony with a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) 4 g per 10 liters of water or 7% solution of copper sulfate.
Brown spot	Cold rainy weather	Leaves with brown spots with a dark border; the appearance of spore carriers of the fungus; drying of leaves; dying off of shoots.	Pruning and destruction of diseased leaves; treatment of the bush with 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride, celandine infusion.
Rust	Wet weather.	Yellow and brown-violet leaf spot, on its lower part - fungal spores; curling and drying of leaves.	Removal of all parts of the bush damaged by the disease, they must be immediately destroyed. Prevention: timely loosening, weed removal. In early spring and late autumn - processing the earth with a nitrophene solution (200 g per bucket of water).
Ring mosaic	(viral disease)	The appearance of spots on leaves of various shapes, light or dark green with dark edging; whitish bloom; the formation of necrotic spots of small size.	Not treated. Dig up and destroy.
Powdery mildew	Bacterial disease	Whitish raids.	Cutting diseased shoots when the buds open to the root; their destruction. Spraying with 0.5% soda ash solution with laundry soap. Repeat the procedure in 8-10 days. Strongly infected plants are subject to destruction. Spraying with 0.2% fig solution. For prevention, use alifin.
Lemoine's disease	Not known	Weak development of shoots, no flowering; the appearance of swelling on the roots; the plant becomes small.	Not treated. The diseased are removed to avoid the spread of the disease.
Verticillary wilting	Causative agent.	During the flowering period - wilting of foliage and stems; darkening of blood vessels, visible on the cut of the shoot.	It is impossible to save. It is dug out with an earthen clod and burned. Spill the vacated pit with bleach or formalin.

There are enemies of the peony in the animal kingdom. Consider what danger they carry, how to deal with them:

Pests	Than dangerous	How to get rid of
Ants	Petals and leaves are eaten along with the sweet liquid on the buds.	Spray with insect repellent (insect repellent).
Aphid	It is collected on the upper parts of the shoots, at the buds, flowers, drinks the juices of the plant; the peony is weakening.	Collection by hand, if aphids are few, knocking down with a strong jet of water. A large number are destroyed by "Fitoverm" or "Aktellik", following the instructions.
Gall nematodes (small worms)	They damage the roots.	The plant is removed from the site and destroyed; the ground is disinfected with 1% formalin solution. For a warning: carefully choose plants for planting; dig deep into the soil; to dispose of plant residues.
Bronzovka, Kuzka beetle	Eats flowers, stems, leaves.	Frequent loosening of the soil (late summer); manual collection; during the period of the appearance of buds, spraying the bushes with infusion of tomato tops or insecticides.
Hop fineworm	Its caterpillars eat the roots.	Regular loosening of the soil; weed removal. If pests appear, spray with Iskra according to the instructions.
Thrips	During the budding period, the juice is sucked from the petals.	Several times per season, treatment with 0.2% karbofos solution, tincture of dandelion or yarrow.
All kinds of caterpillars and larvae	They destroy different parts of the plant.	Manual collection; Spraying with an infusion of okanita.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to get a new plant.

Seeds

Reproduction by seeds is the most painstaking and long way:

1. take freshly harvested seeds (from the opened pods);
2. make a selection, excluding the damaged and weak;
3. prepare containers for planting;
4. fill them with vermiculite or calcined sand;
5. moisturize well;
6. plant seeds at a shallow depth;
7. put in a dark, dry place, maintaining the temperature: +30 ° C during the day, at night reducing to +15 ° C for 35 days
8. using a spray gun to maintain a constant level of soil moisture;
9. after the appearance of small roots, subject to cold stratification;
10. carefully transplant the hatched seeds, transferring them to other containers with a mixture of earth and peat (humus);
11. keep the room temperature at 7-10 ° C.
12. wait for the leaves to appear, and then increase the temperature to 18-20 ° C;
13. irrigate the soil regularly, sometimes adding growth stimulants;
14. at the end of August, young plants can be planted in a permanent place.

The seeds that I had to buy from the store are usually dry. You must first soak them in water for two days. Breeders use obtaining new specimens from seeds to develop new varieties. Doing everything with your own hands at home is impractical.

Vaccination

The method is used for breeding rare varieties. Time is the second half of August. The root of the herbaceous peony serves as a stock. The graft is obtained from a cutting of a tree-like peony with several buds, having previously sharpened its lower cut with a cone. A sharpened stalk is inserted into the incision at the root of the herbaceous peony, tightly wrapped with a special tape (film). Placed for a month in a container with sawdust, setting it in a slightly shaded place. When it takes root, it is transplanted into a container, deepening the bud 5 cm into the ground. Conditions at this time are hothouse conditions. The process takes up to two years.

Layers

A simple and fairly efficient way:

• an intact tree shoot with buds, located closer to the ground, is incised;
• tilt to the ground;
• fastened with a bracket, pressing into the ground from both sides;
• sprinkle with soil;
• watered regularly;
• the emerging sprouted roots with a shoot are cut off;
• divided into parts with a root on each.

It is better to use this method in May, in order to separate it from the bush in the fall and plant it separately.

Cuttings

Cuttings are carried out in the summer (June-August):

• take a plant with semi-lignified shoots and viable buds;
• each shoot is cut off with an oblique cut under the bud;
• shorten the sheet by two-thirds;
• the cut surface is dipped in a root growth stimulator;
• planted in containers with a pre-prepared mixture of sand and peat so that the buds are in the ground;
• sprinkle the surface with sand;
• covered with a film, maintaining humidity until autumn;
• in October, they are transplanted into a greenhouse and kept there until spring.

Plants obtained by cuttings will give flowers in the fifth year.

By dividing the bush

A convenient and effective way is to divide the bush. Held in August-September. To do this, you need to choose over five years old:

• dig out carefully;
• wash the roots from the ground;
• divide, leaving three shoots on each part;
• rinse the scraps with a solution of potassium permanganate;
• sprinkle with fine wood ash;
• stand for half an hour in a clay chatterbox;
• plant in the ground.

Varieties of tree peonies

Peony varieties are obtained by hybridization between species and within one species. There are groups:

• Sino-European (large double flower up to 25 cm);
• Japanese (non-double and semi-double flower 4-9 cm);
• Yellow peony hybrid.

Peonies of the Sino-European group, due to their large heavy flowers (from white, light pink to bright pink), lose their decorative effect during the period of exuberant flowering. The Japanese group is distinguished by light small flowers (the range of colors is much wider), located high above the leaves on strong peduncles. The most popular are yellow peony hybrids with attractive flowers (range from yellow to chestnut with different color strokes). Descriptions of varieties of tree peonies are found already among Tibetan monks about five centuries ago. More than a thousand varieties have been bred in China. In other countries, fewer than five hundred varieties are grown.

Most often, the attention of gardeners is attracted by Paeoniasuffruticosa - a tree peony (semi-shrub). The color and type of flowers are varied. Typical representatives are found in different regions of Russia. Below are photos and descriptions of varieties of tree peonies, the most popular among gardeners:

• "August" AugusteDessert. Lush flowers graceful appearance, intense pink color with tints and border. Long-term storage in a cut.
• "Anastasia sosnovets" Small bush. The flowers are not terry, small in size (up to 11 cm). Petals in two rows, light wavy along the edge, at the base - fuchsia.
• Green Jade. The flowers are pinkish, original green, large double. Bloom: April - early June. It has strong flexible stems and is hardy.
• Coral Altar The inflorescences are like corals. The flowers are large, crown-shaped in white-pink tones. Blooms in June.

• "Maria" A delicate large flower, reminiscent of a bride's dress, is located alone on a strong peduncle. Medium double, spherical. Bloom: May - June. Resistant to diseases and low temperatures.
• "Sapphire" captivates the eye with its regal appearance. A large flower of pink shades with a crimson center. On a bush up to fifty inflorescences. Bloom: June.
• Kiao Sisters is one of the most unusual varieties. It attracts attention with two-colored inflorescences: half of the flower is creamy pink, the other is purple-red. The bush is high - up to 1.3 m. It blooms in June.

In culture, its resistance to unfavorable environmental factors is significantly reduced due to pathogens that cause various diseases. Among the pathogens, fungi predominate, but recently wide use got viruses too.

According to the literature, peony is affected by 5 viruses - tobacco rattle ( Tobacco rattle virus), latent strawberry ring spot ( Strawberry latent ringspot virus), raspberry ring spot ( Raspberry ringspot virus), cucumber mosaic ( Cucumber mosaic virus) and alfalfa mosaics ( Alfalfa mosaic virus) .

Ring mosaic of leaves, or ring spot. This is a symptom of a widespread disease of peonies found wherever they are cultivated. Rings and half rings, stripes appear on the leaves between the veins various shapes and colors - from light green, greenish yellow to bright yellow. They can merge, and a characteristic marble or linear pattern appears on the leaves. By the end of the growing season, the spots are sometimes necrotic. The disease is caused by the tobacco rattle virus, which was formerly known as peony ring spot virus.

In the Non-Black Earth Zone of Russia, including household plots Moscow region, a viral infection on peonies is widespread. In the collection of the Main Botanical Garden (GBS), the appearance of symptoms of a viral infection on this culture has been recorded annually for more than 30 years, and in recent years there has been an increase in the number of diseased plants with a pronounced manifestation of diseases on the leaves: the first signs are usually visible in spring. They are very diverse, sometimes changing during the growing season and vary significantly depending on the peony variety and the type (strain) of the virus.

These can be various spots, manifested in the form of large or small, blurry or clear, ring spots (including concentric ones) of various colors - from light and yellow-green to yellow and bright yellow (Fig. 1-5).

Virus symptoms tobacco mosaics (TMV) and tobacco rattle (TRV)	Cucumber Mosaic Viruses (CMV) and Alfalfa Mosaics (AMV)
Latent Ring Spot Viruses strawberries (SLRSV) and raspberry ring spot (RRSV)	Tomato aspermia viruses (TAV) and tobacco rattle (TRV)

On some varieties, necrotic spots were noted. Vivid symptoms such as jaundice of white-yellow and yellow color, sometimes along the central vein (Fig. 6), mottling, mosaicism (Fig. 7, 8) and a linear pattern (Fig. 9) were also observed. On some plants, interveinal chlorosis and well-expressed variegation were recorded. In addition, in a number of cultivars, the leaf blade was deformed (Fig. 10), becoming narrow, wrinkled, pitted and lumpy, leaf lobes were curved, the tips of which were sometimes chopped off and twisted upwards. On some plants, curly leaves were observed, which became wavy, wrinkled and, as it were, pressed against the stem, turned inside out, and the petiole was bent downward.

Rattle virus tobacco (TRV)	Tobacco rattle viruses (TRVs) and cucumber mosaic (CMV)
Alfalfa Mosaic Viruses (AMVs) and carnation mottles (CarMV)	Cucumber mosaic viruses (CMV) and alfalfa mosaics (AMV)
Latent circular viruses strawberry spot (SLRSV) and annular spot raspberries (RRSV)	Cucumber Mosaic Viruses (CMVs) and mosaics of rezuha (ArMV)

On the flowers of the peony, variegation was noted.

As a rule, diseases are rarely caused by any one virus; a mixed infection is usually recorded.

As a result of testing diseased plants, in addition to the already known viruses on peonies, others were also identified. For example, bean yellow mosaic virus (BYMV) was found on flowers with signs of variegation, cucumber mosaic viruses (CMV), raspberry mosaic viruses (ArMV), and barley yellow dwarfism (BYDV) were found on specimens with leaf overgrowth symptoms. On individual plants with signs of small confluent spotting on the leaves, narcissus mosaic viruses ( Narcisus mosaic virus) and tomato aspermy (Tomato aspermy virus). In most cases, the complex infection included TAV, CMV, ArMV, CarMV viruses ( Carnation mottle virus - clove mottle virus), TMV ( Tobacco mosaic virus - tobacco mosaic) in various combinations.

Viral diseases are dangerous because they spread by contact, with planting material, through the soil, insects and nematodes.

Of fungal diseases on peony, gray rot, rust and various spots are most widespread.

Gray rot (pathogens - Botrytis cinerea, B. paeoniae). All plant organs are affected - stems, leaves, buds, flowers and rhizomes (Fig. 11). Usually, in the spring, immediately after the regrowth of young shoots, brown spots appear at their base, merging into a ring, then in this place the stems rot (often a gray bloom forms here, and small black sclerotia are found on rotting tissues and in the soil) and wither, and subsequently break and fall. Later, the stems can also wither and die off, but rotting occurs already 10–12 cm above the base. When the leaves are damaged (usually along the edges), large brown spreading spots appear, which in dry weather gradually necrotic, and in conditions of high humidity they become covered with abundant gray bloom and rot. During the budding period, the same can be observed on buds, sepals and flowers. As a rule, small buds turn black, dry out or rot, while larger ones turn brown, bloom poorly, often only on one side, therefore they look one-sided. The petals turn brown and dry out, and the flower takes on an ugly shape. The disease develops very quickly, with a strong defeat, the bushes fall apart, the stems fall and dry out. The pathogen persists on plant debris and in the rhizomes of peonies, causing them to rot, spreads during rain and is carried by ants. Cold rainy weather in spring and summer, as well as sudden changes in air temperature, contribute to the active development of the disease. The rapid course of the disease is observed on damp, heavy, clayey soils and with a close occurrence of groundwater, as well as on thickened, poorly ventilated plantings. In general, the development of the disease is facilitated by high air humidity, excess nitrogen in the soil and shading of plants. Early varieties are particularly affected.

In GBS, gray rot is observed on peonies annually, as a rule, on all parts of the plant. The degree of injury in some years reached 20-30%, as, for example, in 2004 and 2010. Strongest development in 2011 Botrytis cinerea observed only on leaves and buds.

Rust (Cronartium flaccidum)... This disease is more common in the northern regions and central Russia, in the Urals and in Siberia, Moldova, it is especially dangerous in Ukraine, including in the Crimea, where epiphytoties occur in some years. The first signs of the disease are usually observed in mid-summer, shortly after flowering (in the Moscow region in the 1st half of July). On the upper side of the leaves, brown, yellowish-brown or brown spots with a purple tint appear, sometimes surrounded by a brown border. On the underside, small yellowish-brown, orange pads of uredopustules are formed, containing spores of the fungus, which are easily carried by the wind, infecting new plants. At the end of summer, among the pads of the urediospores, yellowish-brown, horn-like curved columns of telitospores appear, completely covering the spots on the underside of the leaves, which curl and dry out. Under favorable conditions, the disease can spread in 2–3 days, affecting peonies over large areas.

In autumn, teliospores germinate in basidium with basidiospores and infect Scots pine ( Pinus silvestris) and c. Crimean ( P. pallasiana) - intermediate hosts of the fungus, which can be a perennial source of infection (the pathogen persists on trees and hibernates in the form of a mycelium). In the spring, yellowish-red swellings appear on the bark of trunks and branches (the aecidial stage of the fungus), which subsequently break out. The affected branches thicken, bend and gradually die off. In the middle of summer, the ecidiospores get on the leaves of peonies and infect them. Later, telithospores are formed, which overwinter on the fallen leaves of these plants.

Damp warm weather contributes to the development of the disease. Under such conditions, the pathogen spreads intensively, already in July causing the leaves to dry out and shorten the growing season, which weakens the plants and negatively affects winter hardiness and flowering the next year.

Peonies vary significantly in their resistance to rust.

So, in the GBS collection, the following varieties are most affected: 'Albatre', 'Duchesse de Nemours',' Graziella ',' Feather Top ',' Marcella ',' Cornelia Shaylor ',' Advance ',' Livingstone ',' Marechal Mac -Mahon '.

Cultivars ‘Akron’, ‘Argentine’, ‘Iceberg’, ‘Blush Queen’, ‘Dr. F.G. Brethour ',' Enchantress', 'Florence Nicholls',' Felix Supreme ',' Gladis Hodson ',' Inspecteur Lavergne ',' Lady Kate ',' Le Cygne ',' Mother's Choice ',' Nick Shaylor ',' Primever ' , 'Torch Song'.

Most of the varieties of domestic selection are resistant to rust or only slightly affected (‘Arkady Gaidar’, ‘White Parus’, ‘Varenka’, etc.); among cultivars of foreign selection, ‘Sarah Bernhard’, ‘Festiva Maxima’, ‘Felix Crousse’, ‘A.E. Kunderd ’,‘ Omalia Olson ’,‘ Bowl of Cream ’,‘ Judy Becker ’,‘ Dixie ’,‘ Dandy Dan ’,‘ Evangeline Newhall ’,‘ The Fleece ’, etc.

Cladosporium or brown spot (Cladosporium paeoniae, fig. 12). The disease usually manifests itself in the first half of summer, occurs in the southern part of Russia, and is widespread in Ukraine. Large brown, brown or dark purple spots form on the leaves, which gradually grow, merge and can cover the entire plate. Over time, the spots darken and the leaves look burnt; in wet weather, a dark gray, smoky bloom of fungal sporulation appears on their underside. Sometimes stems, buds and flowers are affected. On young shoots, elongated reddish-brown spots usually form, then the stem darkens and becomes covered with a smoky bloom, the buds turn brown, the petals crumble. Conidia of the fungus overwinter on fallen leaves.

Phylostictosis(Phyllosticta paeoniae). This disease causes the greatest harm in the steppe zone of Russia and Ukraine. Small brown spots with a dark purple rim are formed on the lower leaves. Over time, they increase in size, acquire a rounded or oblong shape, brighten in the center and become covered with convex dark dots - fungus pycnidia, which are immersed in the leaf tissue. Such areas usually fall out, leading to rupture of the sheet surface. With a strong development of the disease, the leaves dry out prematurely, which in turn shortens the growing season and weakens the plants. Pycnidia hibernate on plant debris, which in spring become a source of infection. Spores fall on young leaves, germinate and infect peonies, the peak incidence occurs during the flowering period.

Septoria, or brown spot (Septoria macrospora).

Leaves and stems are affected. The first signs of the disease appear in June-July on the leaves: brown and yellowish-brown rounded or elongated spots with a lighter middle and dark purple border are formed on both sides. Gradually, the spots merge and acquire a light brown color with an ash-gray tint. In the middle of summer, pycnidia appear on them - sporulation of the fungus. The disease first manifests itself on the lower leaves, then spreads higher along the stem. With a strong defeat, the leaves dry out completely, but they may not fall off for a long time. The disease weakens the plants and adversely affects the winter hardiness and flowering of peonies next year. Pycnidia hibernate on fallen leaves.

In addition to the described spots, ramulariasis ( Ramularia paeoniae), alternariosis ( Alternaria tenuissima) and ascochitis ( Ascochyta paeoniae), the latter disease is common mainly in the northwest of Russia.

In general, blotches cause premature death of leaves and shoots. Their development is facilitated by high humidity and temperature. The infection persists on plant debris. On the backyard plots of the Moscow region and plantings of GBS peonies, spots are annually observed in the second half of the growing season.

Mealy dew (Sphaerotheca fuliginea f. paeoniae, Erysiphe communis f. paeoniae). On peonies, the disease has a local distribution, occurs sporadically. Plants are usually affected at the end of the growing season. A white powdery bloom appears on the upper side of the leaves, consisting of mycelium and conidiophores with conidia. Sporulation is marsupial: brown cleistocarps are located mainly on the underside of the leaf, overwintering on plant debris. Sometimes the leaves become deformed and dry out.

Root rot. The causative agents can be fungi of childbirth Fusarium, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia, Sclerotinia, which reduce the intensity of flowering, cause decay of roots, stems, cuttings and plant death. The disease is widespread and is found, as a rule, during transplantation or reproduction of the bush by division. The affected areas of the roots and rhizomes turn brown, soften, rot and die off. At high humidity, a whitish, grayish or pinkish bloom (mycelium and fungal spores) forms. The source of infection is soil and infected rhizomes. Weakened plants, cuttings and bushes separated during transplantation usually fall ill. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and high acidity of the soil.

In GBS on the collection of peonies root rot are recorded annually. Significant damage was observed in 2008-2011, which was largely due to weather conditions favorable for the development of rot, but not favorable for the growth of the plants themselves.

COMBAT MEASURES... Much attention should be paid to preventive and preventive measures. First of all, it is necessary to use only healthy, high-quality planting material, which must be purchased from specialized institutions with an appropriate certificate. It is important to observe optimal agricultural practices, to create favorable conditions for the growth and development of peonies.

About agricultural technology of peonies - in the article How to feed peonies

It is recommended to grow this crop on well-lit, fertile soils, thickening of the plantings should not be allowed, weeding and loosening of the soil must be carried out regularly, and good drainage is needed if the groundwater is close. During the growing season, it is necessary to remove and destroy virus-infected bushes, as well as weeds, which can be sources of infection. When caring for plants, only clean tools should be used. They must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate immediately after cutting off flowers or diseased shoots and stems. Preventive treatments with insecticides against aphids and other insects that can carry viruses are required.

About means of protection - in the section Preparations for diseases and pests

Gray rot... Sick shoots are cut out to the rhizome, and in the fall, all stems must be cut low, and plant residues are also removed and burned. In the spring, the shelter (peat, foliage, etc.) is removed as early as possible so that the soil dries out and ventilates. If the plants are severely affected, then the top layer of the substrate is removed by 2-3 cm and fresh soil mixed with sand is covered. In the spring, with a strong infection of young shoots, to destroy the infection in the soil, peony bushes and the ground around them are treated using preparations of zineb (0.5%), foundation (0.2%), copper oxychloride (0.5-0.7%) or Bordeaux mixture (1-2%). Take 2-3 liters of a solution of one or another drug per plant.

In early spring at the beginning of the growth of shoots to combat gray rot, the first spraying is carried out, then, if necessary, along the growing shoots (with an interval of 7-10 days) - the second, using one of the following drugs: Bordeaux mixture (1-2%), foundation (0 , 2%), colloidal sulfur (0.3%); copper oxychloride (0.5–0.7%) or zineb (0.5%). Then, from the moment the leaves fully open and until flowering, Bordeaux mixture (1%), copper oxychloride (0.5%), foundationol (0.1%), pure flowers (4 ml per 5 l of water) are used. After flowering, it is advisable to carry out another treatment. At the end of August, spraying can be repeated.

Rust. It is necessary to cut and destroy pine branches affected by this pathogen, but the main thing is not to plant peonies in the immediate vicinity of them. Preventive treatments are carried out after flowering with an interval of 7-10 days and immediately when the first signs of the disease appear. For spraying plants, solutions of the same fungicides (with the exception of pure flowers and phytosporin-M) are used as against spots, as well as copper-soap liquid (0.25%), colloidal sulfur (1%) and its other preparations.

Root rot. When transplanting and dividing the bushes, diseased roots are removed, the decayed parts of the rhizomes are carefully cut out to healthy tissue and sprinkled with crushed charcoal - coal powder mixed with foundation (2: 1) or sulfur (2: 1). Within 30 minutes, the rhizomes are disinfected in a solution of copper sulfate (1%), maxim preparations (0.2-0.4%), foundationol (0.2%), TMTD (1%) or a mixture of foundationazol (0.2%) with TMTD (0.6%). Planting (cuttings and rhizomes should not be deeply buried) should preferably be shed with a mixture of foundationol (0.2%) and zineba or TMTD (0.6%). During the growing season, you can use foundationol, phytosporin-M, baktofit, alirin-B, gamair.

Spotting. Treatments are carried out in the spring and before budding: Bordeaux mixture (up to 1%), copper oxychloride (0.5%), Zineb (0.5%), Abiga-Peak (0.4-0.5%), pure flowers (4 ml per 5 l of water) or phytosporin-M (6 ml per 10 l of water).

In the fight against septoria, the first spraying is carried out immediately after flowering, then, if necessary, every 10–12 days. The same preparations are used as for other spots, as well as gamair (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).

Powdery mildew... When the first signs appear during the growing season, the plants are sprayed with an interval of 10-14 days, using foundationol (0.2%), topaz (0.05-0.1%), topsin-M (0.1-0.2%) , pure flowers (4 ml of 5 l of water), solution of soda ash with soap or copper-soap liquid, phytosporin-M (6 ml per 10 l of water or 2 g per 10 l), bactofit (0.7% or 10 g per 10 l), alirin-B (2 tablets per 1 l).

To protect against a complex of fungal diseases in the fall after leaf fall (September – October), it is necessary to carry out eradication treatments with copper sulfate (3-4%) or Bordeaux mixture (2-3%). This technique subsequently allows you to reduce the number of sprays during the growing season. In general, to increase the resistance of peony plants to various diseases, it is recommended to use phosphate-potassium fertilizers and trace elements, and when using a full mineral fertilizer, exclude excess nitrogen. Preparations must be alternated.

Literature

1. Prutinskaya M.D. Atlas of diseases of ornamental plants. - Kiev: "Naukova Dumka", 1982. - 158s.

2. Sinadsky Yu.V. and other Pests and diseases of ornamental plants. - M .: "Science", 1982. - 591 p.

3. Sinadsky Yu.V. and other Diseases and pests of introduced plants. - M .: "Science", 1990. - 272 p.

4. Cardin L., Onesto J.P., Moury B. First report of Cucumber mosaic virus in Paeonia lactifera in France. Plant Disease 2010. V. 94. No. 6. P. 790.

5. Samuitiene M., Navalinskiene M., Dapkuniene S. Investigation of Tabacco rattle virus infection in peonies (Paeonia L.). Scientific works of the Lithuanian institute of horticulture and Lithuanian university of agriculture. Sodininkyste ir darzininkyste, 2009. - 28 (3). - P. 199-208.

The magazine "Floriculture" No. 5-2012

Peony care.

Peonies are quite popular flowers in our country. The most interesting thing is that the homeland of this plant is China. It was there that local breeders developed several interesting varieties from natural varieties that are now popular all over the world.

How to grow tree and herbaceous peonies in the country?

Tree peonies are planted in late summer and early autumn. It is worth pre-choosing the area on which the planting is carried out, since it should be sufficiently light and the sun's rays should be practically constant. In addition, it is worth planting plants away from buildings and trees. The fact is that it is impossible for the flower to be without sunlight. In addition, the quality of the soil is important. It must be clayey, so humus, peat, and turf must be added to ordinary chernozem. Clay soil is improved with sand and a variety of organic fertilizers. More details on transplanting and fertilizing a plant can be found.

Tree peonies

When do peonies bloom, and for what year does a tree and herbaceous peony bloom after planting?

With flowering, everything is quite complicated. The fact is that the information indicated for a given variety and reality may not match. It should be noted that when one bud ripens, unlike many plants, there is no need to cut or pluck peonies. If you cut the flower ahead of time, you can donate the whole bush. Very often, after the procedure of plucking a flower, growth stops. Therefore, it is necessary to wait until the first flower has completely bloomed.

When all the petals are fully opened, only then the flower is cut. Sometimes it happens that two buds first appeared on the bush. In this case, you need to wait until both buds turn a certain color. After that, pinching or cutting of this bud is carried out. The procedure for piercing the bud at the base is quite popular. In this case, the flower will dry out, but this will not damage the root system in any way.

Do not expect very fast results and flowers. Usually, the tree-like peony blooms in the second and third years after planting. Despite the fact that the seedling will reach a height of 25-30 cm. Please note that in the first year the bush looks rather depressed and weak.

What props are needed for peonies during flowering?

The fact is that during flowering, very large buds ripen, which can damage the stem. This is due to the large weight of the flowers themselves. Therefore, even before flowering begins, supports are installed on the bushes. This helps to keep the bushes looking good and prevents the bud from tilting. Most often, annular pores are used. These are peculiar devices, which are two rings connected by supports.

Thus, the entire bush is fixed. This prevents the stems from tilting to either side, even with strong gusts of wind. Below in the video you can find out which supports are used during the flowering of peonies. Tying peonies to a variety of sticks is not entirely effective.

VIDEO: Supports for peonies

Peonies have faded: what to do with them next, how to care for peonies after flowering, in August?

It is worth noting that it is worth caring for peonies not only before flowering. Some inexperienced gardeners cut the bushes to the root right after flowering. This is wrong as it weakens the bush. The next year you run the risk of getting very small flowers and a small number of them, so immediately after flowering, you should not completely cut the entire bush. Only faded buds are cut off.

In addition, small buds and hemp are left above them. After the plant has faded, it is necessary to remove all the fallen leaves from below, cut the flowers, and also pour the mullein solution. The plant is responsive to organic fertilizers.

When to prune peonies, leaves of peonies after flowering, for the winter: pruning time

Many gardeners do not quite properly care for flowers and strive to cut them off immediately after blooming. This is not entirely correct. It is necessary to wait until the petals on the bush are completely dry and only then prune. You should not cut the bushes at the root, cut the bud itself to the first leaf. After that, the bush in such an intact form is left almost until frost.

When the stems fall down and almost completely lie on the ground, only after that is pruning at the root. This is due to the fact that immediately after flowering, before the onset of the first cold weather, the circulation of nutrients occurs along the stems and in the bushes. This has a positive effect on the establishment of new buds, as well as on the development of the root system. Therefore, do not rush to prune after flowering. Only fully cut after all the stems have touched the ground.

Peonies - care in the fall: what should you do?

Bushes require care in the fall. Most often it comes down to fertilizing, pruning plants. Pruning is carried out in mid-October, because if this is not done, then in spring the shoots will become soft and will bend throughout the winter. They will be much more difficult to cut with pruning shears. Therefore, almost at the root, pruning is carried out in the fall.

Instructions:

• It is necessary to choose a dry day for manipulation. If there was dry weather outside for several days before, it is necessary to pour a bucket of water under the bush and let it fully absorb. Only after this is pruning carried out.
• All branches and leaves are removed from the site and burned. In no case should you leave waste under the bush itself. This will contribute to the development of fungal diseases and a variety of infections. All residues are taken out of the area and burned.
• After that, fertilization with organic components is carried out. It is best to fertilize with mullein.

How to prepare peonies for winter, do I need to cover for the winter?

Preparation for winter is carried out immediately after flowering. It is necessary to perform a number of manipulations:

• Cut flowers
• Cut off all stems and harvest them
• Water the plants with fertilizers
• Take care of the covering material

Tree peonies can freeze over in winter. Usually a layer of straw is lined and the soil is mulched. After that, it is necessary to cover the bushes with agrofibre or oilcloth, which is fixed with bricks or wooden boxes. Leaving the bushes uncovered is not worth it. Since part of the root system during extreme cold weather can freeze. In no case should fallen leaves be used as a covering material. Since they can contain pathogens of dangerous diseases.

What frosts can peonies withstand in spring?

Peonies are quite resistant to spring frosts. Therefore, most often you should not worry. During the budding period, when the first rudiments of flowers have already appeared, the plant can withstand temperatures up to 4 degrees.

How to process, spray peonies from ants?

Ants quite often accumulate near and on peonies. Therefore, it is necessary to fight these insects. More about wrestling .

There are several options for dealing with ants:

• Chemicals. Chemicals include various insecticides. The most effective are considered to be the Anteater, Muratsid or Ant. All of these substances are usually soluble in water. The plant is watered with the resulting solution.
• Physical aids. Physical means include a variety of scarers and traps. Some summer residents note the effectiveness of these funds. Some cite complete uselessness. Traps such as Combat and Raptor are considered the best. But they still contain chemicals that are poison and kill ants.
• Traditional methods. Some summer residents speak well of folk remedies for fighting ants. It is boric acid that is used to add to water. The plants are watered directly with the resulting solution, and the discovered anthills are poured with boiling water.

Why peonies don't bloom: what to do?

Tree peonies do not always delight summer residents with a good harvest. Therefore, in the first year, one should not expect the appearance of a large number of ovaries on the bushes. You should be prepared for the fact that the first two years, after the appearance and planting of the bush, when buds appear, they must be pinched and cut off. Thus, you will form a good strong bush, which will then delight you. big amount peonies.

If, after 3 years of growth and proper care, your peonies are not blooming, try fertilizing them more often with organic fertilizers. Perhaps the place that you have chosen for the peonies suits me. Plants do not tolerate shady areas, as well as being close to many plants. Peonies are usually planted in bright places with direct sunlight.

Why leaves curl and turn black, buds dry up: peony diseases and their treatment

The plant is not considered prone to various diseases. Well, like any flowers, there are still ailments that prevail.

Tree peonies suffer:

• Annular spotting... These are usually spots that appear on the tips of the leaves. The color of these spots is light yellow. The causative agent is a virus. A mixed infection is sometimes recorded.
• Gray rot. It is a fungal disease that affects flowers, roots and leaves. In this case, brown spots appear on the leaves, as well as drying and decay of the plant. The cause of the disease is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, as well as high humidity. In addition, a similar ailment often appears due to an incorrectly chosen landing site. Peonies do not tolerate shade.
• Rust. It is found most often in the northern regions. There are yellow or brown spots on the leaves with a brown border. Provoked by fungal spores. Infection can occur due to gusts of wind.
• Brown spot... Observed in the first half of summer. Dark brown specks appear on the leaves, which then turn into holes.
• Powdery mildew... It occurs not often and in small outbreaks. Usually manifested by the appearance of a white border or bloom on the upper part of the leaves.
• Root rot... Provoke mushrooms. Roots infected with such a disease rot and die off. Most often triggered by high humidity and abundant watering of the plant.

Ways to fight:

• You can fight gray mold with copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture
• Rust is treated with phytosporin, a colloidal sulfur
• Root rot is destroyed with foundation
• Various types of spotting are destroyed using Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, as well as pure flowers
• Powdery mildew is removed with foundationol, topaz and pure flowers

To protect against fungal ailments, after the leaves have fallen from the bush, treatments with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture are carried out. Such treatments allow you to exclude a variety of ailments. This is a kind of prevention.

Despite the fact that the peony is a fairly common flower. Taking care of him is not easy at all. It takes time and attention from the gardener. It is necessary to carry out regular feeding before and during the flowering period. Also a necessary condition for obtaining a good harvest and large buds is timely pinching and pruning of bushes.

VIDEO: Caring for peonies

With its exquisite beauty, the tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which does not differ much in terms of the level of complexity from the garden worries with its closest relative (herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower is a deciduous plant.

Tree peony, photo:

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height, it has upright powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also carved, as it were, openwork feathery leaves. The multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which can reach from 14 to 23 cm in diameter.The tree-like peony is striking in its color range, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, soft lilac, blue (Blue Sapphire ) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm (and the second one is even larger).

Flower sizes, photo:

The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also diverse: terry, semi-double, ordinary smooth. A notable feature of the tree is an increase in the number of flowers every year. The time of its flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the usual peony. He has a higher tolerance to cold, he has a more stable "immunity" in comparison with his herbaceous counterpart.

Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:

The bush is distinguished by abundant flowering, the number of blossoming buds at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, by itself is able to decorate any country cottage area or a flower bed.

Foliage of a tree peony, photo:

Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious, with its individuality, it appropriately emphasizes a hedge, an arch, an area near the gazebo, garden bench or the entrance to the house.

The first visual difference is the more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, it is a shrub. In the herbaceous, closer to the cold, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree-like one only grows them, every year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. In autumn, he naturally sheds foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if lignified.

Another point, on a tree-like representative, you do not need to periodically cut the buds to stimulate subsequent flowering and distribution of the plant's vitality. This method only works well with its herbaceous cousin. Tree-like in its "behavior" is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it tolerates winter well, but in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with a special covering material. You can also use spruce branches for these purposes.

If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then the period of its flowering will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms earlier than its herbaceous counterpart by one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia, they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without replanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photos of long-lived bushes:

Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of a straight-growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush gains color, builds up shoots, and is abundantly covered with buds. In the first years it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species, for the first five years it generally very slowly adds in volume and growth. The temporary difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.

To briefly summarize the main difference in what distinguishes a tree from a herbaceous one, you can use the following parameters:

• bush height;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• the hardness of the escape.

Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as quickly as we would like. In order for the bush to begin to give flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

This question can be seen very often on themed flower forums or various horticultural groups on social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, poorly chosen planting site, as well as illiterate soil preparation for it (lack of drainage, non-observance of the correct burial of the flower into the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet at the stage of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, more than one year must pass for the tree-like peony to give color).

The place for placing the bushes should be light and spacious, the soil should be fertile, loose, alkaline.

This plant really does not like transplanting - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be performed very carefully. It is necessary to remove the bush from the soil with an earthen clod, be careful not to damage the roots. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will come to its senses for a very long time, hurt and adapt in a new place for 2 or even 3 years.

Proper watering also has a big effect on flowering. Water should be done abundantly and generously at a time, but not often! Stagnant water is dangerous for him, therefore, if your site is dominated by clay soil, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (put a layer of drainage in the hole under the flower). It develops better and grows in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and duration of flowering longer.

Let me summarize the main reasons why the tree peony does not bloom:

1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive deepening of the bush into the soil during planting.
2. Overdoing it with nitrogenous fertilizers.
3. Excessive enthusiasm or, conversely, insufficient feeding (this flower does not need a large amount of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, abnormal heat. Disease should also not be discounted. When planting a flower, always consider the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your area. For example, when living in warm regions, choose early flowering varieties.
5. A banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - young bushes bloom at 4 or 5 years of age, as mentioned above.
7. Too close distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Transplanting (sometimes repeated) or separation of the rhizome can also be a consequence of the lack of flowers.
9. Pruning shoots. Unknowingly, some gardeners prune the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage begins to change color (darken) or fall off.
10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogged soil. Remember that between waterings, the soil must have time to dry out.

Many gardeners would like the flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of its herbaceous brother. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to breed new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies (new generation peonies) - but this is a completely different story.

Separately growing bush (it needs space), photo:

Pay attention to the planting material - its root system can be open or closed. When purchased at the appropriate points of sale, the seedling may already have special packaging (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, be bare or in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a ready-made pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether the seedling is grafted or has its own roots. If there is a graft, then the roots differ in dark color and thickness. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. Such representatives may have flowers in the first year of life after planting. Such specimens must be obtained from appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and not otherwise.

If you got a seedling obtained from a cut, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting it, you can see the flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the "scheme" for obtaining layering: a healthy and strong shoot with buds is bent to the ground, pinned, covered with soil. After a certain time, roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.

When purchasing such a seedling obtained from a cut, pay attention that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has at least 5 capable buds. The length of such a seedling must be at least 25 cm!

In order for a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is considered to be late summer / early autumn. If possible, determine for him an elevated place, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Thick trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a thick shade - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place. Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. As for planting in spring, it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because growth and flowering are activated during this period.

Loam is the ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then add turf, clay, peat, humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of the peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so in advance "deacidify" it by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater flow, but if there is no other possibility, then the hole for it must be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, diameter is the same). Lay a drainage layer at the bottom of the groove, about 30-35 cm, crushed stone or fine gravel are perfect for this business. As a last resort, 30 cm layer river sand can be used too.

Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing difficult here: build a small mound of earth in the pit, put a bush on it, gently straighten the roots, pour water generously. After the moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling in such a way that its root collar is flush with the soil surface.

If you are planting several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant from another!

The so-called “finickyness” consists in finding the golden mean - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. A burning sun is harmful, but a thick shade is unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with decay of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a gorgeous lush shrub. The soil is important, because it is the nutrition of the plant, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing difficult for an enthusiastic gardener, since every green inhabitant requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and an awareness of success, what did it turn out to be, grew, blooms and smells!

Peony tree planting and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the planting hole should "ripen" beforehand. I have already written above about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced flower growers, this hole should be prepared a month before planting the seedling. That is, add all the additives in advance, and only then bury the seedling in the hole.
2. When the seedling is buried in the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded in the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend laying such a "pie" in advance on the bottom of the pit: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add a complex top dressing on top, sprinkle 1 a tablespoon (with a slide) of copper sulfate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little slaked lime with the soil (to lower the pH).
3. If a seedling fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, then "sleep" it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable soil mixture, bury a bush in it, place it in a cool, but lighted room. During this entire period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it for permanent residence in the open ground.

It is up to you to listen to these additions or plant a plant without much tweaks. As practice shows, with the correct observance of all the requirements, in both cases you will get a positive result.

The main care for him, in principle, is the same as for herbaceous. From time to time, you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create a support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.

One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such abundant watering should be done at least 2 times a month. In doing so, take into account the possible precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, water volumes during irrigation should be gradually reduced until they are completely eliminated. It is recommended to push the soil around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of the earth dries up. The depth of immersion of garden tools in the soil when loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

Peony is very fond of nitrogen and potassium, it must be applied regularly. Nitrogen fertilizing is relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment when the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing season. When the bush begins to give flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, a little nitrogen can be added. However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, so it is up to you to add nitrogen during this period or not. Sometimes it’s better not to do it than to overdo it - this is exactly the case with nitrogen fertilization. Do not forget to abundantly moisten the soil before each application of fertilizing - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

While your peony is at a young age, the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied by the foliar method: about 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and the bush is irrigated with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "nutrition" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the emergence of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush finally fades.

As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, but purchased specimens need to be protected in the winter. It will be better if for the first couple of years you cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spunbond, burlap or spruce branches. Additionally, you can make a "hat" of snow on top. It was said above about growing and protecting (even adult) peonies in cold regions.

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a care nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shriveled and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency to produce radical rejuvenating pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost at the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activating new buds, which subsequently gives a "second life" to the flower.

Or, each branch is pruned to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. As they have in China, they know better, but in our regions, according to experimental observations, the tree-like peony does not really like pruning, therefore, with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some branches are very frozen, do not rush to cut them, it is quite possible that the buds will still "move away", wake up and bloom - this also happens.

The main diseases and methods of dealing with them:

1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot (aka Botrytis). This fungal disease is activated with waterlogged soil and lack of sun (for example, when the summer is rainy). A grayish bloom appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere further from the site. Another sign of this disease is the softening and sharp wilting of young and strong shoots. It is treated with potassium permanganate irrigation (4 g per 10 liters of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. Irrigate not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even mulch.
2. Brown spot - the same actions. As a prophylaxis against it, irrigation with a weakly borne solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) is used. The affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (the ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
3. Rust (some gardeners claim that this is a synonym for brown spot) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed in a day. First, brown-purple spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage curls sharply and dries up at the same time. Radical treatment - removal of all affected parts of the bush and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure the flow of fresh air (removal of weeds and thinning of other nearby growing plants). In early spring, even before the leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with a nitrafen solution diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
4. Ring-shaped foliage mosaic is another viral disease that manifests itself in the appearance of stripes and "rings" on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint, as practice shows, the ring-shaped mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but appearance spoils the foliage. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through contaminated planting material or soil, but also through gardening tools. Insects, even common ants, can carry fungus or viruses to healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat is a tree-like peony, cultivation and care, as well as an approach to yourself, oddly enough, requires completely unpretentious and does not have any special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and a shrub. A long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with their beauty for many years and even decades.

Peonies have long been famous for their lush bloom and unpretentiousness. That is why gardeners prefer this shrub. Of course, there are some nuances in the growing process. Consider the process of planting and caring for the plant, and also find out whether it is necessary to prune tree-like peonies before the winter period.

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub. Plant size can reach 1.5-2 meters. The leaves of the flower are ornamental, openwork. The stems are brown, rather thin. It should be noted that they do not die off in autumn, but only increase every year. Large flowers with a diameter of 12-20 centimeters are located at the ends of the shoots.

There are many colors: from white and light pink to bright purple, crimson. There are two-color species. Tree peony cold-resistant.

There are three main plant varieties:

1. Japanese.
2. Sino-European.
3. Hybrid.

The number of flowers is directly proportional to the age of the peony: the older it is, the more luxuriant it blooms. The average flowering period of a plant is about two to three weeks. Planting and caring for tree peonies is standard, but attention must be paid to the characteristics of the plant.

Growing conditions

Peonies are considered light-loving plants, it is because of this that a sunny area will be required for harmonious growth, best of all - on a small elevation. Plants do not tolerate a transplant, so the landing site must be constant. It is better if there are no other large plants around, such as shrubs or trees.

Growing a tree peony will require early preparation of the site and soil. Flooded areas with excessive moisture are not suitable for the growth of a tree peony. If there is no alternative, it will be necessary to install drainage and ensure the removal of excess moisture. Give preference to soil with alkaline reaction (from 7.5 to 8 pH).

Planting a tree peony

An excellent time to plant a tree peony can rightfully be called the period from mid-August to early October. It is necessary to select a land that is protected from the wind and well lit. We will take a closer look at the process of growing a plant from a seedling, but there is also an option for growing a tree peony from seeds.

Make sure the soil is loamy and moist before planting. If the soil is dry, add humus, clay or peat to it. Too heavy, clayey soil can be diluted with organic fertilizers or sand. If the soil is acidic, add lime or bone meal to it.

Planting process

You will need to dig a cone-shaped hole. The diameter of the hole at the surface, as well as its depth, is approximately 60-70 centimeters. Then make a small layer of drainage from gravel, expanded clay or broken brick, no more than 20 centimeters. When planting several plants, you will need to maintain a distance of 1.5-2 meters.

It is best if the soil has time to settle - therefore, holes will have to be dug in advance, two to three weeks before planting.

Place fertile soil on top so that it forms a small mound. Now you need to plant and abundantly water the tree peony seedling. After a while, the earth will settle on its own, and the roots will straighten.

If there are buds on the tree peony seedling, they must be removed. After complete absorption of the liquid, fill the hole. There is no need to trample the soil.

Plant care

The care process takes a lot of time, but only with comprehensive care will you keep the plant healthy. The following activities are considered the most important:

• loosening the soil after watering,
• watering,
• removal of weeds.

The watering mode is standard for peonies of any kind: they are watered twice a month, 6-7 liters of water per bush. Of course, you need to consider natural conditions, and in hot climates, moisturize the plantings more abundantly. In August, watering can be reduced, and in autumn it must be completely stopped.

Top dressing of peonies is most important in the spring, as the plants need nitrogen fertilizers.

For the period of bud formation, purchase fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. Do not forget that an excess of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the death of plantings. Mulching with humus is useful in the summer.

The formation of tree peony bushes allows you to give it a beautiful appearance. During the swelling of the buds (in the spring), it is necessary to cut off damaged and dried shoots, and cut off the branches to the upper axillary point.

By the beginning of November, it is necessary to tie the shoots of the plant, to mulch the trunk circle. You will need to cut the plant two-thirds of the length of the leaves, which will enhance frost resistance. At the first frost, peonies are covered with burlap or spruce branches.

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Tree peony care in the fall preparation for winter. Especially for the readers of "Popularly about health" I will consider how to properly end the season for such a plant as a tree peony - leaving in the fall, preparing for the winter, what does it mean for it. How to perform all the necessary manipulations to make it beautiful plant and the next year delighted gardeners with its stunning flowers?

Features of the tree peony

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub that ranges in height from 150 to 200 centimeters. Thick erect shoots are colored pale - brown color... Unlike the herbaceous peony, the stems of such a plant in autumn time do not fade, but every year they grow more and more, and over time the bush acquires a semi-spherical shape. Ornamental, openwork leaves are doubly feathery. The flowers are located at the ends of the stems, and their diameter ranges from 12 to 20 centimeters or more. Such flowers are double, semi-double and simple. They can be painted in white, purple, yellow, pink, crimson, and there are also two colors. With age, flowering becomes more and more abundant. The flowering of such a peony begins 2 weeks earlier than the herbaceous one, and its duration is 14–21 days. Such peonies are resistant to cold.

Preparing a tree peony for winter

During the preparation of the plant for winter, flower growers begin to think about how to preserve peonies in winter, whether it is necessary to cover the tree peony for the winter and how to do it.

In fact, opinions differ in the floriculture literature, some authors recommend covering peonies in the winter months, others consider it unnecessary. In fact, the peony is not as afraid of frost as the early spring thaws, during which peony buds uncovered with snow or covered with material can wake up, and, as a rule, frosts following a thaw can destroy a plant that has started to grow. Therefore, the conclusion suggests itself that sheltering a peony for the winter is a completely useful measure.

In order to cover the peony, in October you need to tie the shoots, mulch the near-trunk circle with peat (humus), and with the onset of cold weather it is better to cover the plant with a hut of spruce branches, foliage, a thick layer of chopped bark, sawdust or just bags of jute, so that the tree-like peony went fine.

If we are talking about a herbaceous peony, after flowering, its stems must be cut to a level of 5-7 cm above the ground, mulched in the same way as described above in the case of a woody peony. If you live in a very cold region, then shelter is also useful.

In principle, these are the main aspects that will help you properly care for peonies after flowering and prepare them well for wintering.

Autumn pruning of tree peony for winter

When to prune peonies for the winter

Preparing plants for winter is a rather responsible event, because with premature pruning, there is a risk of ruining the entire flower. That is why the question of when to prune the bushes for the winter is very important.

Here it is worth focusing on the appearance of the bush. If all of its stems fall to the ground, you can begin the procedure.

Features of pruning a tree peony

Plants for the winter should be cut at the root. All removed parts of the plant (stems, leaves) should be taken outside the flower garden to prevent the development of pathogenic fungi. Cut bushes must be protected from frost.

Rules for pruning a tree peony

There are some rules that will help answer the question of whether you need to prune the bushes after flowering, and how to do it correctly.

For the procedure to be successful, you need to do the following:

Start pruning for the winter after the first frost, when all the stems of the bush fall to the ground.

The stems of the plant should be cut almost to the root, leaving the shoots above the buds no more than 10 cm high.

The remaining root system it is necessary to carefully cover from the cold with humus or dry peat.

How to shelter a tree peony for the winter

According to experienced gardeners, it is not difficult to warm a tree peony for the winter. To begin with, you need to sprinkle the near-trunk circle with peat, and with the onset of frost, you need only a few branches of spruce, of which you need to build something like a hut around. To prevent the hut from falling apart, tie the twine around the branches.

Alternatively, you can prepare oak leaves in advance and fill the frame built around the bush with them. It additionally needs to be covered from dampness.

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The layer of peat, with which you will sprinkle the ground around the bushes, should be at least 10 cm.For northern regions, you can increase it to 15-20 cm.This warm shelter will not only save the plant, but will also provide the nutrients necessary for growth and development in spring ... Peonies covered in this way will bloom earlier and more abundantly, since peat and humus will become a good growth stimulator for plants.

Propagation of a tree peony by seeds

With the help of seeds, you can not only multiply, but also get your own varieties of tree peonies, which will not be in any garden. When a peony propagates by seeds, you need to have time to collect them correctly and on time. To do this, two weeks after flowering, the seed pods are tied with gauze - this technique will allow you not to lose a single ripe seed. Collect the seeds when the capsules open and the seeds are poured into the cheesecloth.

The seeds of a tree peony lose their germination rather quickly, so they are sown in the year of harvest.

For sowing, prepare an ordinary plastic deep box (for example, from under fruit) and a pallet of a suitable size. Prepare a soil mixture of peat and sand in a 2: 1 ratio.

The collected seeds have a very hard shell that must be broken, i.e. make scarification. For this I use two sheets of fine sandpaper. I put several seeds on one sheet and cover it with a second sheet of sandpaper on top, press on it with my palm and roll the seeds, or you can use a file.

The seeds are placed in a box with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkled on top with a layer of river sand of 0.5 cm. To prevent the soil from drying out, the box is inserted into a bag and tightly tied (I use large garbage bags). Seeds are sown sparsely, with a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, because they have to spend a lot of time in the box, and there should be no crowding. To meet all temperature recommendations, I choose a hot day for sowing and place the box in the greenhouse at noon. There the seeds are warmed up like in a sauna, and in the evening the temperature slowly drops, which also corresponds to the sowing conditions. In the evening (around 22:00) I take the box from the greenhouse and put it in the refrigerator, where after a while the sprouts should appear.

As soon as the plants hatch, I take out the box and bury it in the garden bed (already without a pallet), I build a greenhouse around by analogy with cuttings, and I also cover it for the winter.

Propagation of a tree peony by cuttings

How to propagate tree peonies by cuttings? Let's describe this procedure step by step. Guided by our instructions, even beginners can cope with it. The best time to cut semi-lignified shoots with well-formed buds is mid-June.

Armed with a sharp knife, cuttings are cut, making oblique cuts right under the kidney.

All leaf blades must be shortened, leaving only 1/3 of their previous length.

After treating the sections with a root formation stimulator, the cuttings are planted at an angle of forty-five degrees in a seedling box filled with a mixture of peat and washed river sand, taken in equal proportions. The buds should be completely buried in the soil and made sure that the cuttings do not touch each other.

To prevent moisture evaporation, the surface of the substrate in the box is covered with a one and a half centimeter layer of sifted sand.

Covering the boxes plastic wrap or glass, during the entire rooting period of the planting material, they take care of a constant level of soil moisture, not forgetting the need for regular ventilation of improvised greenhouses.

In September or early October, rooted cuttings are quite ready to be transplanted into individual pots. The best place to keep them until spring and transplant to a permanent place is a greenhouse.

The disadvantages of this method of reproduction of tree peonies are the high complexity and laboriousness of the process of rooting cuttings and the extremely slow development of young plants (they bloom only by the fifth year of life).

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Propagation of a tree peony by layering

Choose a shoot that is as close to soil level as possible. In May, make an incision in it, but not very deep, and treat it with a stimulant to form roots. The shoot is tilted to the ground and fixed. Pour about 15 cm of soil on top. By the fall, the cuttings have already taken root, then they are separated from the bush and transplanted to a new place.

You can get a new bush by rooting air layers. To do this, make an incision in the same way, treat it with a stimulant, but then wrap it with moss and film. In August, the roots should appear, this method, unfortunately, does not give a 100% guarantee of success.

Grafting a tree peony

The best time for grafting a tree peony is the end of August. The rootstock is the root segments of herbaceous or tree-like peonies 10-15 cm long; the thickness of the root should correspond to the thickness of the cutting. The roots are dug up in 2-3 weeks and kept in a cool place. Graft - only shoots of the current year, preferably with two eyes. Wedge-cut grafting. Make a wedge cut on the rootstock. Cut the lower part of the scion in the shape of a wedge. The surfaces of the scion and rootstock must be perfectly smooth for the cambial layers to match. Insert the scion into the stock, tie it tightly with insulating tape (sticky side out) and coat with garden varnish.

The grafted plants can be planted in the ground immediately after grafting. But it is better to plant the grafted material first for 3-4 weeks in a greenhouse protected from direct sunlight, leaving the scion above the soil level, and water it regularly. Another option is to keep the grafted material in the basement for 3-4 weeks - in a horizontal position, in 2-3 layers, shifting with wet sawdust.

Side grafting. Cut diagonally at a slight angle. Cut the root at the same angle. Tie the combined scion and rootstock tightly and coat with garden varnish.

Diseases and pests of the tree peony

The tree-like peony is more resistant to disease than its herbaceous counterpart. The only significant threat can be gray rot, the development of which is facilitated by excess moisture. In this case, the affected leaves must be immediately removed and burned, and the plant itself must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

If you want to have a spectacular and unusual perennial plant on your site, then let it be a tree-like peony. Preparing for winter and caring for it will not take much time, but unusual view and bright flowers will delight the eyes and surprise guests. It can be planted both as single bushes and in group planting, for example, with ordinary herbaceous peonies. And let the shrub saplings are quite expensive, but its perennial flowering more than compensates for all the costs.

It is believed that the peony belongs to those flowering perennials that do not require special care... However, if a number of necessary agrotechnical measures are not carried out in the fall, then next year there will be no active flowering from this perennial.

How to properly prepare plants in the fall for the upcoming cold weather, what kind of care is needed for these flowers in the fall, how to properly cut peonies for the winter, whether you need to cover them for the winter - this and much more will be discussed below.

Autumn flower care

Autumn is the most important time in the peony care process. Usually in the spring and during the summer, the main care of these flowering bushes is timely watering, loosening the soil, removing weeds and cutting off the blooming buds. And what should be done in the fall, when this perennial is actively preparing for the coming cold weather?

• feeding flowering shrubs;
• transplanting shrubs (if there is a need for this);
• autumn pruning;
• mulching around the bushes.

Other care for peonies in the fall is not required when preparing them for winter. There are no special and specific nuances in caring for a plant in autumn.

Features of preparation for winter

Pruning is the most important part of preparing peonies for winter. Therefore, you should dwell in more detail on this procedure in the autumn, when and how the flowers are subjected to the procedure, as well as when you need to make the last feeding of these flowers, and why do these flowering plants need it.

Do I need to cut the plant for the winter

Many growers are wondering whether it is necessary to prune peonies for the winter in the fall. And some novice growers do not understand why it is necessary to cut off the foliage in the fall on this perennial shrub, because these leaves are not affected by any diseases or pests, but simply in the autumn they turn yellow, dry out - this is how the next cycle of development of this flower ends.

But at the same time they forget that the remaining uncut wilted foliage is an ideal place for the wintering of various harmful insects, their larvae or the eggs they lay. Also, pathogens can “hide” there.

Therefore, it is imperative to trim such peony leaves in the fall. This is a compulsory sanitary measure and should be done at the end of each summer season.

Some gardeners postpone such an event in the spring, but you should not do this so that in the spring unexpected guests do not appear on the site - "harmful" bugs that overwintered in the withered leaves of the plant. Therefore, you need to cut the leaves of peonies for the winter.

When to prune a plant in fall

Timing is also important in this matter. So when can you prune peonies for the winter? The first pruning is carried out after the end of flowering - at this time only all wilted flowers are removed, while the foliage should not be touched.

The fact is that after the end of flowering, the process of photosynthesis continues in the leaves, which allows the roots of the plant to accumulate the nutrients they need for growth, recuperation after flowering, as well as strengthening resistance to the upcoming frost.

Therefore, early removal of leaves, instead of benefit, brings only harm to the shrubs.

The flowers are already weakened after the active growth of the vegetative mass and abundant flowering, therefore they need enhanced nutrition, and photosynthesis helps to decompose the beneficial substances that enter the foliage from the root system.

Therefore, the process of pruning peonies in the fall is carried out after the first frost. The leaves will then fall on the ground, and this will be the main sign that it is time to cut the peonies.

Until this time, the nutrients that are formed in the foliage were actively entering the root system.

Some growers begin to prune peony foliage for the winter when it begins to change its color from green to yellow, bronze, pink or red. Amateurs perform this procedure solely because of the decrease in decorative effect in shrubs. However, foliage dries up ahead of time only in diseased shrubs, and healthy foliage serves a perennial to accumulate the required amount of useful elements in the underground part.

And if there is a need for earlier cutting of leaves, then at least 2-3 leaves should be left on each stem, which will process the useful elements obtained with the juice from the root system.

Instructions and procedure diagram

There are no special nuances during the procedure for ordinary varieties of peonies. Usually they are cut off when all the foliage has fallen to the ground. In different regions, the timing of such pruning of peonies in the fall differs due to the different times of the onset of frost, after which a similar procedure is done. In these shrubs, the stems are cut almost to the level of the soil, leaving them sticking out of the soil a couple of centimeters.

And the procedure for pruning tree-like peonies in autumn is completely different. They have the following types of procedures:

• formative;
• to rejuvenate the shrub.

In the first case, such pruning of peonies in the fall is necessary to give the bushes a beautiful decorative shape. Therefore, in the fall, all lignified stems are cut by 0.7-0.9 m.In this case, next year, the bushes will form more young shoots, and this procedure also contributes to the abundant flowering of the perennial. In addition, cut bushes are easier to cover before the onset of frost. But in the European part of our country, tree varieties can grow up to 2.5 m in height.

Rejuvenating pruning of peonies in the fall is done every 10-15 years in order to remove old shoots and activate the growth of new ones. The need for this procedure is easy to notice - the bushes grow worse during the season, and flowering noticeably decreases or stops altogether. With the correct and timely anti-aging procedure, this flowering perennial can be kept alive for 60-80 years.

Important! All cut shoots, along with the foliage, are immediately taken out of the site and burned, and the places of the cuts and the soil are sprinkled with ash for disinfection.

Video: how to properly prune peonies for the winter.

Caring for peonies after pruning, feeding

Peonies are usually fed a couple of weeks before the onset of frost. The usual terms for applying autumn fertilization are from the second decade of September to the first decade of October. The specific dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region in which these flowers grow.

Important! In the fall, do not use any nitrogen fertilizers as top dressing, so that the shrub does not grow before winter.

Usually, on warm dry autumn days, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied. In early autumn, these elements are necessary for the root system, which during this period continues to grow and accumulate useful substances.

The advantages of this feeding method:

• the next year, stronger and larger buds grow on the stems;
• flowering bushes in the next season will be more active;
• the flowers will be larger in size and their color will be more intense;
• the applied phosphorus-potassium fertilizers help to strengthen the root system, allow it to strengthen its defenses before the coming cold weather, and the bushes themselves grow stronger and stronger next year.

Top dressing during this period is applied in the following ways:

• dry;
• liquid.

If the autumn turned out to be dry, then it is better to dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in water according to the instructions and apply directly under the roots. A liter of such a solution is enough for each bush.

In rainy weather, it is better to use granular fertilizers, which gradually decompose in the soil and go to the roots in certain portions. Usually dry fertilizers are scattered around the stems of the plant, slightly embedding them in the ground.

Video: preparing peonies for winter, pruning time, fertilization.

How to cover peonies for the winter

Pruning peony bushes and fertilizing are not all measures to prepare this flowering perennial for winter. It is important to properly cover the peonies for the winter so that they do not freeze during the winter frosts. This procedure is especially relevant in those regions where there are severe frosts in winter, and the amount of snowfall is small.

The growth buds of this flower lie in the soil at a depth of no more than 6 cm, so the first thing to do is to spud the cut bushes.

On top, lay a layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 15-18 cm. As such material, you can use sawdust, spruce branches, high peat, dry foliage, humus or compost.

Remember! The cut foliage of the plant cannot be used as a covering material. It usually attracts "harmful" insects and pathogens.

During the winter, you can additionally cover the peonies with a layer of snow - it will serve as an additional "insulating" material during severe cold weather.

Features of preparing a tree peony for winter

Throughout the European territory of our country, tree peonies do not need to be sheltered for the winter, because, as a rule, they can winter perfectly well without shelter. But only if they grow in a quiet place where cold winds do not rage during the season. Moreover, the ground at this time of the year can freeze to a depth of 0.8-1.0 m, and the column of a street thermometer can drop to -28⸰С.

Young bushes of treelike peonies must be covered for the winter. To do this, they are covered with a layer of peat (up to 20 cm thick), and an inverted bucket is placed on top.

Although many growers prune this type of peony in the fall, experts believe that it is better to do all types of pruning of tree peonies in the spring.

Video: is it necessary to cover the tree peony for the winter.

Features of preparation for cold weather, depending on the region

Different regions of our country have their own nuances of preparing peonies for winter. Consideration should be given to how to prepare these shrubs for winter in areas with different climatic conditions:

1. In Siberiabe sure to shelter peonies for the winter using various mulching materials. Such a shelter should be more solid than in warmer regions. Usually, cardboard boxes, buckets or plastic containers are placed on top of the mulch layer.
2. In the Urals hiding peonies is also a must. Moreover, the shelter process is similar to what is carried out on the territory of the Siberian regions.
3. In the Volga region you do not need to cover the peonies so carefully for the winter - you just need to add a layer of mulching material.
4. In the middle lane (Moscow region) for high-quality preparation of peonies for winter in open areas, it is better to cover them in case of a frosty, snowless winter.

Typical mistakes

Many novice florists often make a number of mistakes when preparing peonies for the coming cold weather.

Let's note the most common ones:

• pruning too early - before the onset of the first frost;
• do not remove dead foliage in the fall, but do it at the beginning of the next season;
• in rainy weather, a liquid form of top dressing is introduced under this flowering perennial, as a result, not all fertilizers are "absorbed" by the roots;
• incorrectly shelter peonies for the winter.

Video: correct pruning of peonies in the fall.

Preparing peonies for winter is a very important process, from correct conduct which depends on how the bushes will be ready for the next season. Therefore, flower growers should pay attention to carefully following all the rules for the preparation of these flowering perennials to the cold season.

Those who are already breeding or are just going to decorate their garden with bushes of peonies should definitely know what "surprises" to fear. Conventionally, all the troubles that can harm a flower can be divided into the following categories:

• fungal, these include gray rot (Botrytis), rust and mottling (white or brown);
• viral, this includes a circular mosaic of leaves;
• pests, especially caterpillars, aphids, bronze and others love this plant.

All of them have a very strong effect on the decorative qualities of the flower and on its vital activity. But do not despair, we will help you in the treatment of peonies. Your task is to free the plant from all unwanted guests. And you will have to do it on your own. Let's analyze each type of defeat separately.

Gray rot is not the easiest opponent

The second name of this disease - Botrytis - is very sonorous. Unfortunately, there is little pleasant in it. Its causative agent is a fungus, the spores of which do not die even in winter. They feel great on the rhizome of the bush and even in the upper layer of the earth where it sits. In the spring, the fungus begins to actively develop and simply captivates the entire plant, which can cause it to wither away. Particular vigilance must be exercised if the spring is cold and damp.

Especially comfortable gray rot feels on clay soil or soil with a close occurrence of groundwater, in areas flooded with melt water. An excess of nitrogen fertilizers can also provoke the disease. This enemy is not difficult to recognize. A dark bloom first appears on the stem, from which the stem darkens, weakens and breaks. Sometimes brown spots appear on young leaves (at their tips). Soon they dry up, deform and fly around. The same thing happens with fresh buds.

It is known that the fight against fungus is a rather difficult and long process. Here are a few important tips on agricultural technology to avoid disease:

1. planting peonies should not be dense;
2. an excess of mineral fertilizers should not be allowed;
3. in the fall, after pruning, it is necessary to burn all the remnants of foliage and stems;
4. if groundwater is close, drainage is necessary.

And the treatment can be carried out using fungicidal preparations purchased in the store. These include: copper oxychloride, copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid, colloidal sulfur. Although this chemical agents, but their use not only does not harm, but also perfectly complements agrotechnical measures to get rid of the pathogen of gray rot. Unfortunately, each of these measures taken separately will have no effect.

When using fungicides, attention should be paid to the precautions indicated by the manufacturer on the label and the timing of the treatment. Advice from experienced gardeners: in the fight against, spray peonies with a nitrophene solution (200 g per 10 l of water). Best of all in the fall after cutting the bush. Another way is processing with garlic infusion (a teaspoon of ground garlic per 1 liter of water).

How to deal with rust?

Another fungal attack of all types of peonies is rust. She waits for the moment when the plant fades, and appears on the leaves in the form of brown spots with a purple tint. If you turn the sheet over, you can see disputes. They are easily carried by the wind and strike healthy plants literally in two or three days. As a result, in a short period, you can lose all the plantings of peonies, even in large areas.

Rust is insidious in that, like any mushroom, it is resistant to frost, and the pathogen hibernates well in myceliums. In the spring, it spreads with renewed vigor and sucks out the plant's nutrients. Accordingly, the kidneys do not develop, the body weakens and dies.

In fight and prevention, all methods are good. As in the case of gray rot, it is necessary to use a set of agrotechnical measures and spraying with fungicides (their set is the same as in the first case). It is also important to be vigilant: as soon as you notice fungal infestations on the leaves, cut them off and burn them immediately.

Spotting - agrochemistry against disease

We have already said that it is white or brown. They have the same symptoms. As a rule, the lesion begins in early summer and appears on the leaves. Spots appear, at first small, with a dark border. If the disease is not localized at the very beginning, the spots spread and merge. In these places, fungal spores form, the leaves dry out, the plant dies.

For the prevention and treatment of peonies in the fall, spraying with a weak solution of copper sulfate or DNOC is used. And in the spring, before their budding - with copper or zineb oxychloride (0.5%). After the plant has bloomed, you can continue processing with Bordeaux mixture or take Abiba Peak, Fitosporin-M. Experienced gardeners they successfully use celandine for these purposes, which grows like a weed, but is very effective in combating fungi.

The solution is easy, you need to soak the plant in water for 2-3 days, then strain. Scientists have identified several more types of spotting, in addition to brown and white. These are septoria and ascochitosis, which are widespread mainly in the west of Russia, and phylostictosis (characteristic of the steppe zone). The same treatment and prevention is applicable to them as for all fungal diseases of peonies.

Ring mosaic of leaves - remove camouflage from peonies

Recall that this disease of peonies is a viral infection. It is dangerous because both healthy and infected shoots can grow on the same bush. It is necessary to recognize the sick in time: stripes or rings appear on the leaves, from light green to yellow. The disease is transmitted by cutting knife and pruning shears, so if the plant is infected, it is necessary to heat the tools.

It is not difficult to treat the circular mosaic of leaves. In the spring, when the buds are blooming, mercilessly cut off diseased shoots down to the rhizome and burn them. If there is a relapse and the disease has resumed, destroy the plant completely. If you are a drug addict, you can try Alirin... It is produced in tablets - how to dilute it, you need to read the instructions for use.

Pests and their weak points

This is perhaps the most difficult problem for gardeners, because pests are living things that tend to reproduce. But with proper care for peonies, diseases and pests should not be feared. In our time, there is a possibility of getting rid of them completely.

• Aphid. Insects are easy to spot and bush in small clusters on leaves, just like ticks and thrips. To combat them, spraying must be carried out several times a season. Insecticide preparations are suitable: Agravertine, Chlorophos, Fitoverm and Confidor... The manufacturer's instructions will help you prepare the solution, and you need to process it in the proportion of 1 liter of solution per 10 m 2 planting.
• Bronzovka. The insect eats everything that gets in its way - petals, stamens, pistils. If you saw bright beetles with a golden-green color on the flowers, this is a signal for action! It is simple to deal with the bronze: in the morning, collect beetles directly from the bush and burn them. By the way, this method is also effective when attacking peonies with caterpillars and larvae. Add one of the following preparations to the soil under the peonies: Initiative, Medvetox or Thunder... As an effective spraying even on affected flowers, it is recommended to use a solution of a pest control agent Calypso.
• Gall nematodes. These microscopic pest worms work with the root system of the peony, completely affecting it. Of course, the bush first withers away, and soon dies. It is difficult to recognize the enemy, because he is not visible as well as beetles or aphids. It is necessary to carefully examine the root system before. If you notice knotty formations on it, then there is a defeat by root gall nematodes. If, nevertheless, the root has been attacked by a pest, dig up and destroy the bushes, and pour formalin solution (1%) into the resulting hole. Then dig up this place well and apply mineral fertilizers.