Drawing of an ax made of wood. Ax dimensions, correct ax

An ax is a tool necessary for any suburban economy. It will come in handy when chopping firewood, and when building a house, and when cutting game. Unfortunately, not all axes on the market are reliable and comfortable. Some of them are even dangerous to operate! Therefore, if you have a need for "clumsy" work, you can try to make quality tool do it yourself. We will now tell you how to make an ax.

Components of the ax: metal blade, hatchet and wedge

The hatchet is the handle of the tool; the convenience of the work performed depends on its length and shape. A straight stick with a round cross-section is not the best option. The hand holding such an instrument experiences increased tension and gets tired quickly. Much more practical is a curved hatchet with a cross-section in the form of an oval with straight sections. It is desirable to widen the tail section and bend it down. Then, with strong blows, a reliable hold of the ax in the hands will be ensured.

Ax scheme: 1 - butt, 2.9 - wedges, 3 - blade, 4 - toe, 5 - chamfer, 6 - heel, 7 - beard, 8 - hatchet, 10 - sharpening

The process of making a hatchet looks like this:

1. Preparation of the material

Strong axes are obtained from oak, birch, maple, ash.

Wood for hatchets is traditionally harvested in the fall, before frost. Debarked logs are placed in the attic, in a dry and dark place to dry. The workpieces must not lie in storage less than a year... Some experts recommend even longer drying - 5-7 years.

However, if your ax is broken, but you urgently need to chop the logs, then you can use fresh wood. This is a temporary option, since after shrinkage the wood will in any case decrease in volume and the handle will begin to "dangle" in the eyelet.

2. Cutting the template

A cardboard template is needed to transfer the contours of the designed hatchet to the surface of the wood and make tools with the required dimensions. As a sample, you can use a ready-made ax, which is convenient for you to work with. The pen of the "standard" is traced with a pencil on a sheet of cardboard, cut out and a template is obtained.

3. Making a billet bar

From the dried lumps, strictly along the fibers, a block is hewn out - a blank for an ax handle. The length of the block should be about 100 mm longer than the intended size finished product... In width, the workpiece in the front part (which is mounted on the blade of the ax) should exceed the width of the metal eye by 2-3 mm.

A template is applied to the block from both sides, its contours are transferred to the wood. In this case, the template is positioned so that an allowance of 10 mm remains from the front of the bar, and 90 mm at the end (in the tail). The allowance in the shank serves to prevent the handle from splitting when inserting the metal blade. It is cut off after final assembly.

4. Cutting out the hatchet

In order to finally bring the ax to the right sizes, cross cuts are made from the top and bottom of the bar. Their depth should not reach the outlined contours of the hatchet by 2 mm. Excess wood, along the cuts, is chipped off with a chisel. Finally, up to the contour lines, the material is cut off with a rasp. With a file (bastard or rasp), bends, corners, transitions are rounded off. Final sanding carry out with sandpaper.

5. Impregnation with waterproof composition

The best remedies for wood impregnation - drying oil and linseed oil. The hatchet is coated with any of these oils. After it dries, apply the next layer. This is done several times until the oil ceases to be absorbed.

The ax should not be slippery, therefore it is not recommended to cover it with varnishes and oil paints. You can mix a small amount of dye into the drying oil, for example, orange, red or yellow. An ax with a bright handle will be clearly visible in the grass and will not get lost.

How to make a high-quality hatchet for an ax in field conditions, but in compliance with all the rules, see below:

Choice of metal blade and hatchet attachment

It is almost impossible to make a metal cloth with an eyelet at home, so you will have to buy it ready-made. When buying, pay attention to:

steel quality - ideally, the product is marked with the GOST icon, and not TU or OST;
blade - should be even, without dents, cracks, bends;
eye shape - in the form of a cone;
butt ends - should be perpendicular to the blade.

At the end of the handle, two axial lines are drawn - longitudinal and perpendicular to it. A groove is cut along the contour of the longitudinal line to the depth of the eye - this cut will be necessary to wedge the hatchet. Then the butt is attached to the end and the contours of the eye are outlined, focusing on the axial lines. With a knife, ax or plane, they cut off the landing part of the ax, giving it the shape of an eye. Moreover, this is done so that the handle protrudes about 1 cm beyond the eyelet.

With the help of blows of a hammer, an ax is placed on a hatchet. Do this carefully so that the wood does not crack. After the butt goes beyond the boundaries of the butt, check the firmness of the fit of the blade - it should sit tightly, not slip.

Ax attachment on a hatchet: a - fitting, b - attachment, c - wedging; 1 - ax, 2 - hatchet, 3 - wedge

Wedging the ax - a guarantee of a firm fit

The wedging serves to enhance the reliability of fastening the metal part of the ax to the ax. The safety of working with this tool depends on it. The wedging is carried out by driving a wedge made of hard wood (oak, walnut, yew, etc.) into the end part of the handle. Accordingly, the volume of the landing part of the ax increases and "firmly" sits in the eyelet.

For the manufacture of a wedge, a wooden, well-dried plank with a thickness of about 5-10 mm is used. The working part of the wedge is made with the same cutting depth. With the help of a rasp, the wedge is hewn so that its sides are parallel to each other. Only the very end is milled with a double-sided chamfer. The thickness of the wedge near the chamfer should exceed the kerf by 1 mm, at the end of the working part - by 2 mm.

Diagram of a wedge used to wedge a hatchet

To drive a wedge, the ax is placed vertically on a hard surface (table, anvil, etc.). Using a chisel, they expand the groove of the cut, install a wedge and hammer it with a hammer. Before driving, you can grease the wedge with glue (without a rubber component) - to prevent it from being pushed out of the cut and a more secure fit.

Saw groove widening to facilitate wedge driving

Wedging an ax with one wedge is a popular and reliable option

One wedge wedging is not the only thing possible variant... Some masters prefer to use large quantity wedges, for example, two or five. In the latter case, the first wedge is driven into a longitudinal groove at the end of the handle (as when wedging with one wedge), and then the remaining four are driven in perpendicular to the first. How to plant an ax on a hatchet, and then wedge it, is shown in detail in the video clip:

Correct ax blade sharpening technology

The blade of a hand-made ax will perform its function only if the angle of sharpening and the width of the chamfer are correctly maintained.

The sharpening angle affects the comfort of the ax and the degree of its functionality. If you plan to cut wet, freshly cut wood, then the sharpening angle should be approximately 20 °. If the trees are dry, then 25-30 °.

The chamfer width is also very important, but in the ready-made purchased blades, change it to the usual home master beyond the power. However, there is a way out: to grind off the ax blade with a double "descent". The first angle is milled at 15 °, the second at 25 ° (average value).

Sharpening of an ax: a - sharpening angle, b - chamfer width (should exceed the thickness of the blade by 2.5-3 times)

The ax is sharpened on an electric grinder. At the same time, make sure that the blade does not overheat too much - this leads to a deterioration in hardness near cutting edge... Therefore, when starting the sharpening process, you should put a container with water next to the sharpener to cool the metal. It is advisable to immerse the blade in water after each pass along the circle.

It is necessary to minimize the beating of the grinding wheel by regularly straightening with special cutters. When sharpening, hold the ax so that the blade is directed towards the rotation of the electric sharpener. The butt is kept at 45 °. The blade is sharpened by smoothly moving the ax along the circle. The sharpening angle is carefully sharpened, the chamfer is ground.

Sharpening an ax on an electric grinder allows you to quickly get a sharp blade

Final sharpening ax (grinding) is carried out using a sharpening bar, regularly moistened with water. Instead of a block, you can use a piece of plywood covered with sandpaper. Remember that working with a sharp ax is a pleasure, while a blunt tool will force you to exert more effort, leading to quick fatigue.

He is the real "king" of the carpenter's tools. He is the true salvation for those who are lost in the forest. He is a faithful assistant if you need to chop wood for a bath, build a house or butcher game. A well-sharpened ax can be used in dozens of other situations, but the fact remains. The tool will be useful on any suburban economy.

The only difficulty that a business person may have is the purchase of a solid, high-quality ax. More and more often you are convinced that it is much easier and more reliable to build an ax with your own hands. So let's take a look at the entire manufacturing process, from the blank of the hatchet to the sharpening.

Making a hatchet step by step

The process of creating an ax with your own hands always takes place in a strict sequence. First, the handle of the tool, called the hatchet, is made. When the length and shape of the handle are chosen correctly, the tool literally "burns", demonstrating high performance and ease of use.

Try to take a stick with a regular circular cross-section and stick on an iron base. You will quickly get tired, because holding such an instrument for a long time, the hand experiences the strongest stress. Another thing is when the ax handle has a curved shape, the tail part is widened and slightly bent downward. Thanks to this design, the axes are firmly held in the hands even with strong blows.

A traditional ax tool consists of wedges (2 and 9), a blade (3) and a butt (1), a toe (4), a chamfer (5) and a heel on the blade (6), a barb (7), and the actual ax handle (8). The number 10 indicates the sharpening.

Preparing the material and cutting out the first template

Since we need to make an ax from wood, we will take this material as a basis. The best proven designs are birch and oak, ash and maple.

A wooden ax can be made at any time of the year, but it is better to harvest the material for it in the fall, even before the onset of frost. Blanks are stored in the attic for at least a year, some experts advise to dry them for five or even more years.

It is clear that if the taiga ax donated by your grandfather was broken with your own hands on an impregnable log, you can take a fresh tree as well. This option will still be temporary, because after shrinkage, the volume of wood decreases. The butt of the ax will start to wobble and hold less tightly.

To prepare a good template, drawings of the future product are desirable.

When there is a cardboard template, it is much easier to transfer the contours of the designed product to the tree. The ready-made ax handle is taken as a basis, with which you are comfortable working. It is outlined with a simple pencil on a piece of cardboard and cut out.

Preparing the bar to work

From a billet bar to a careful chiselling of the hatchet

Before making an ax, it is necessary to hew out a block from a dried chock. Keep in mind that the length of the piece of wood should exceed the planned size of the finished product by about 10 cm. As for the width in front (mounted on the canvas), ideally, it exceeds the diameter of the metal eyelet by 2-3 mm.
Place the finished template on the block and transfer its contours. Leave an allowance of 1 cm in front, and 9 cm in the tail of the workpiece. Before you put the ax on the ax, you will inflict more than a dozen blows on the handle. The allowance in the "tail" is needed to avoid splitting. When final assembly will be over, you can cut it off without any problems.
Let's get down to the main part of working with the hatchet. In the upper and lower parts of the bar, transverse cuts are made with a depth not reaching 0.2 cm to the contours. A chisel is used to chip off excess wood along the cuts, and the final cut is done with a rasp.
Use a regular file or rasp to round corners, shape smooth curves and transitions. Sandpaper will help with the final sanding.
It is still too early to plant the steel sheet - the wood is impregnated with a solid waterproof composition. Flaxseed oil is suitable, drying oil has excellent properties. Apply a small amount of the substance to the handle, let it dry. Then the next layer is applied. The procedure is repeated until the instrument you made yourself no longer absorbs it.
The gross mistake is to cover the wooden base with varnish or oil paint. However, nothing prevents you from adding a little dye to the drying oil (red, yellow). The bright instrument will never get lost in the dense grass.

How did our ancestors choose the blade for the hatchet?

Several hundred years have passed, but the method of buying a good canvas has not changed. Our ancestors knew how to make an ax out of wood and what metal base to use. They have always paid attention to:

Steel quality. By the way, today this issue is solved simply. Look for the GOST badge on the product - this will be an indicator of excellent quality. No OST and TU!
Blade. The ideal blade has no cracks or dents and is very smooth.
Butt ends. They are strictly perpendicular to the blade.
Eye shape. Better when it is made in the form of a cone.

How to plant an ax on a hatchet (video)

When the canvas is selected, a completely natural question arises: how to properly plant an ax on a hatchet and achieve a "dead" fastening? Start by drawing the centerlines at the end. There will be two of them, perpendicular and longitudinal. The groove to the depth of the eye must be cut precisely along the contour of the longitudinal line. The kerf will be useful for wedging the ax.

Putting the butt to the end, outline the contours of the eyelet on it - the center lines will be a guide. Use a knife or planer to trim the seat of the ax. It is important that the handle does not protrude more than 1 cm beyond the edge of the eyelet.

It is convenient to plant the canvas with hammer blows. Do it accurately, with effort, but without too much pressure. You don't want the wood to crack from your blows, do you? As soon as the end has gone beyond the boundaries, we check the firmness of the fit, we look at how the canvas sits. It should not slide off.

Wedge wedge knock out or wedging method

You can strengthen the fastening of the metal part by wedging. To do this, a small wedge is driven into the end, made of hard wood - for example, oak. Because of this, the size of the landing part grows, and it is fixed "tightly".

Some craftsmen use not one, but two or even five wedges. But as practice shows, even one additional fixation is quite enough.

Ax wedging. Drawing

A proven way to sharpen an ax blade

Sharpening an ax is an initial task after your tool is made and ready to use. Only in this case will the product perform its main function.

For working with freshly cut wood, the angle of sharpening is ideal tool is 20 degrees, dry wood - from 25 to 30 degrees. The width of the chamfer is equally important.

Sharpening the ax by hand

How to sharpen an ax with a regular electric grinder

Stock up in advance with a container in which you will cool the metal. Then do this:

Hold the product so that the blade can be directed against the rotation of the disc. We hold the butt at an angle of forty-five degrees. This is the optimal sharpening angle, regardless of the type of tool and its features.
To sharpen the ax, it moves smoothly along the circle. The chamfer is ground, the angle of the sharpening being performed is sharpened.
The final sharpening of the ax is always done with a special sharpening bar. From time to time it needs to be soaked in water to cool the metal.
If there is no opportunity to sharpen the hatchet with a bar, it is replaced with a piece of plywood, which is pasted over with sandpaper.

Do not forget that working with a sharp tool is always pleasant, while a blunt ax means more additional and completely unnecessary efforts, quick fatigue and not the best result. After the work on the manufacture and sharpening of the ax is completed, a cover is put on the blade. This will extend the life of the product and will need to be sharpened less frequently. The cover is made of leather, birch bark, any other suitable material.

Ax case

There is an opinion that the tool can be stored stuck in a log. This is a big misconception. Consisting of strong steel and a hand-made hatchet, the ax becomes a "continuation" of the hands of the master. Try chopping wood homemade tool- and you will no longer want to go back to store products.

To those who live in own home, it is often needed in the country and on hikes such a tool as a taiga ax. Work tool good quality is expensive and difficult to find.

An ax from the market is not always good quality. Therefore, we will make our own ax with the help of available tools.

Varieties of axes

Consider the variations of the axes:

Cleaver is a heavy cone-shaped ax. Due to its high weight, it is well suited for cutting large, hard wood species.
Joiner's - light weight and size, has a sharpened blade. They are used for careful, precise, accurate work with wood.
Taiga - suitable for felling trees, harvesting trees, building a hut, removing bark, branches.
Tsalda - intended for cleaning the area from shrubs.
Kitchen (chef's) - intended only for chopping bones. It is a small hatchet, with a short handle and a large "blade".
Lumberjack - used only for felling trees. Consists of a long ax and a wide, sharp blade.

Of all the above types, the taiga ax is the most necessary and useful.

Distinctive features taiga ax:

Low weight.
A small area of the piercing surface (makes it possible to drive it as deeply as possible into the wood).
Specific blade sharpening (the rear edge is much smaller, thinner than the front edge.

This feature is made in order to use given view ax as a cleaver (if the blow is struck correctly. an ordinary ax blade of the same shape for precise woodworking).

Making a taiga ax

Handle material

The function of an ax is primarily influenced by its shape and length. The handle should be curved, and the section is oval.

For the handle, tree species such as maple, oak, ash, birch are best suited. Since these types of wood can withstand vibration well upon impact.

Wood harvesting begins in autumn

Dry in a dark place. Before starting to use, wood must be stored for about one year, and preferably five.

It is not advisable to use only felled wood as it will dry out over time and will not hold in the eyelet.

Create a cardboard template

On a large cardboard sheet, outline the shape of the handle and apply it to a piece of wood. The template will help us make a more accurate hatchet.

Preparation of material for the handle

A one-year-old block of wood is trimmed parallel to the fibers. The blank for the handle must be longer than the template. We make the place that is inserted into the eyelet wider than the main part.

We circle the attached drawing on both sides, and do not forget to leave allowances. After that, we inserted the upper part into the eyelet, remove the excess wood.

Steps to cut the handle of an ax

Before cutting the hatchet, you need to make transverse cuts, but so that they do not reach the line of the future handle by about 4-5 mm. With the help of a chisel, we remove the remnants of wood and excess allowances.

Ore transitions and corners are performed by turning with a rasp. After the workpiece is done, we bring it to smoothness with sandpaper.

Purchase of a piercing part for a taiga hatchet

It is unrealistic to make a blade in a domestic environment. In this case, here is a list of what you need to focus on when buying it on the market or in a building store:

The presence of GOST marking (indicates the quality of steel);
The hole for the handle (eyelet) must be tapered;
The blade is smooth, without defects;

Collecting an ax

We cut the upper part of the handle lengthwise and across.
Cut five pieces of hardwood.
Gauze, soaked in resin, wrap the top of the handle to better fit into the hole of the blade.
Using a hammer, drive in the handle.
We hammer the prepared pieces into the cuts at the top of the hatchet.
After the structure dries up, cut off the protruding parts of the wooden pieces.

Note!

Sharpening the piercing part of the taiga ax

A properly sharpened blade gives excellent performance of the hatchet. The sharpening angle depends on the activity you will be using with the ax.

The taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 30-35 ̊. If they are going to work with fresh wood, then we will sharpen it at an angle of 25 ̊.

If you use a sharpening wheel for sharpening, then the handle of the ax must be held at an angle of 40-45 ̊. We reproduce the sharpening slowly, carefully.

If you have everything in stock the right tools, Photo step by step production ax, then its creation will not take a lot of time, effort and money, and in return you will receive a high-quality ax made with your own hands.

But do not forget that with a piercing part made of high-quality metal, the ax will last much longer and if the handle is processed linseed oil, then it will not rot and deteriorate.

Diy ax photo

Note!

The result of an activity - whether economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but not least on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of a purchased ax, it often becomes the source of a number of problems - intense blunting of the cutting edge, regularly flying off the piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.

Choice of wood

The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (always old), beech and even an apple tree. But the best option after all, birch is considered, namely, the root part of a tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax is also guaranteed.

It is more correct to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively "dehydrated".

Exposure of samples

Even experienced master the first time it may not make a high-quality hatchet. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the handle of the ax. Opinions on the shelf life before processing differ, but they all agree on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3-4 years. Moreover, it is impossible to accelerate it artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It is pointless to use "fresh" wood on the ax. As a result of material shrinkage, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. Undried wood is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, when there is an urgent need to make a hatchet, at least for a while.

Preparing the template

A good hatchet must have a well-defined shape. Trying to withstand it "by eye" is a futile business. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter are a must. The size and shape of the handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the handle does not break out of the hands of the master in the process.
Since we all have different heights, arm lengths, then linear parameters axes are not standard. They vary within certain limits. This primarily refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for a carpentry tool - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8 - 10 cm is enough). After it is firmly planted on the ax, without splitting the tree, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If the household has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut a template along them.

Hatchet making

With a sample, this is easy. The main stages of work are as follows:

workpiece marking;
sampling of excess wood (electric / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
finishing, grinding the hatchet.

One should not rush to fine-tune the fixing part. In the process of processing the hatchet, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it fits to the eye of the butt. Even a small "shuttle" is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Taking into account the specifics of the use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, the grinding of the hatchet should alternate with its regular fitting in place and fitting within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
When processing a workpiece under an ax, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens the wood, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For fine finishing it is more correct to use a sharp knife, shards of glass, sandpaper with different sizes grains. The recommended direction for stripping and sanding is along the grain.
It is also necessary to choose the correct angle of the butt nozzle. For universal tool used for economic purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account when finalizing the fastening part of the hatchet.

Handle wood protection

Any tree is subject to decay to one degree or another. Linseed and drying oil for the ax. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the handle will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The application of the compounds on the handle is carried out in several stages, while each layer must dry well.

Experienced craftsmen mix brightly colored dyes into drying oil or oil. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.

Ready-made hatchets are on sale. If a decision is made to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and self-production, then it is advisable to have it with you approximate dimensions(shown in the picture above). And choose a workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it only remains to slightly adjust the handle "for yourself."

It is not easy to choose a new wooden hatchet for the cleaver, the configuration of which is largely determined by individual preferences.

A truly comfortable handle will be made "for yourself", made using an affordable technology that does not require special skills.

Wood processing is handy for carpentry workbench or on a replacement desktop. The list itself the necessary tool as follows:

Hacksaw for wood;
Carpenter's Ax;
Plane;
Hammer;
Chisel;
Roulette;
Sandpaper.

Using a power tool ( grinder, circular saw or an electric plane), will greatly facilitate the process of making a handle for a cleaver, but you can do without them.

Wood for the ax

The type of wood and drying of the workpiece determine the durability of the cleaver's ax. Freshly cut chocks are not suitable for the handle: when dry, the wood becomes much thinner, cracks and warps. At home, a natural drying method is used, which allows you to prepare the workpiece in a dry shed for two years and in one year if you keep the piece of wood in a heated room. The harvested wood is sawn off 15–20 cm longer than the future ax for the cleaver, in order to subsequently remove the ends covered with cracks.

Among the available tree species best properties possesses ash: the handle comes out of it strong, elastic and little drying out over time. Suitable birch chock it is easier to find, but it should be dried longer, and it rots faster. The maple hatchet loosens less, which is slightly inferior to the birch one in terms of impact strength, but is more durable and easily processed.

The shape and size of the ax

A firewood cleaver should have a slightly curved handle, 50–70 cm long for medium logs and 80–100 cm for large stumps. The hatchet is made of an oval cross-section, consisting of two semicircles, connected by straight sections. Such a handle provides a confident grip and tactile control over the trajectory of the cleaver ax. Only the seating part of the cleaver's ax has an ovoid shape, corresponding to the hole in the metal tip. In the tail part of the handle, a bend is made in order to better hold the cleaver, which tends to slip out of the hand with strong blows. In addition, the downward-directed end twists the hand less at the final moment of the strike.

Making a handle with your own hands

From the dried lumps, a block is first made with a thickness of 3-5 mm exceeding the width of the landing hole. The stock will allow you to adjust the harvest later in the event of an erroneous removal of excess wood somewhere. If it is necessary to remove a thick layer, use an ax or circular saw, then the surfaces are rounded off with a plane, while leveling the planes.

On the resulting workpiece, the outline of the hatchet is marked with the same margin of several millimeters.

For convenience, a piece of wood is clamped and transverse cuts are made with a hacksaw with a step of 35–40 mm, not reaching the marking line by 2–4 mm.

Then, with an ax or a chisel, chunks of wood are knocked down in small pieces, following the direction of the chip and not allowing deepening below the drawn contour.

The shank is filed perpendicular to the axis of the ax to reduce the likelihood of chipping wooden product.

After completing rough handling, mark the dimensions of the bore.

Why find the center at the end of the workpiece and align the tip along it.

The final shape is given to the workpiece by rounding off the convex surfaces with a plane, and the sunken parts are selected with a sharp knife.

Working carefully, remove thin chips and periodically turn the part to change the direction of the cut. As a result, they get an almost finished hatchet.

Now, at the upper end of the handle, the chamfer is removed for the approach.

They try to slightly insert the handle into the eyelet, after which prints will remain on the wood, showing how much material needs to be removed.

Focusing on these marks, they continue to adjust the handle. Then another test nozzle is made to identify the chipping sites.

The subsequent finishing of the handle is performed with an emery cloth, smoothing out all irregularities and bringing the surface to a smooth state.

The tip is finally placed on the finished hatchet, controlling the even fit. A saw cut off the protruding end of the piece of wood.

Set the cleaver vertically and drive a wedge, the length of which should not exceed the size of the butt in order to avoid cracking. In case of incomplete deepening of the wedge in the wood, the excess is cut off with a hacksaw for metal.

The handle of the wood splitter is impregnated with a protective and decorative compound that leaves the surface rough. Do not use varnishes and oil paints forming a glossy finish.