Pruning fruit trees and bushes in the fall. When is the best time to prune trees - the optimal time! Autumn pruning of fruit trees and shrubs

Planting a seedling in the ground does not guarantee that the garden will grow lush and productive. All crops grown on the site require constant attention from the owner, regardless of the season.

Pruning fruit trees is one of the main steps in gardening. It allows you to form the correct crown, regulate growth and fruiting. In addition, proper pruning of fruit trees can help prolong their productivity. You will find all the necessary recommendations in our article.

Correct pruning of fruit trees

Pruning refers to the removal of dry and damaged branches and shoots. In addition, in the process, extra branches are cut out, which thicken the crown and reduce the quality of the crop (Figure 1).

Why spend

Correct pruning also has a sanitary function. Removing unnecessary branches prevents diseases, and a rejuvenating procedure can extend the life of a plant.

Figure 1. Types of pruning of fruit crops

It is important to choose the right time to remove branches. It is best to do it in the fall or in early spring, when the juice has not yet begun to move in the trunk. At the same time, autumn thinning is possible only in regions with a mild climate, since severe frosts can damage the crop at the cut site.

Methods and techniques (shortening, thinning)

There are two main pruning methods: thinning and shortening (Figure 2). Each of them has its own characteristics.

Figure 2. Pruning techniques: pruning and thinning

Pruning involves the partial removal of branches and shoots. For example, if 1/5 or ¼ of the shoot is cut off, such a shortening is called weak, when 1/3 or 1/2 is removed, it is medium, and from half to 2/3, it is called strong.

In the process of shortening, rejuvenation is also carried out. For a light branch, cut off an increase of 2-3 recent years, for moderate, 4-6-year growth is removed, and for strong, almost all of the skeletal branches are removed.

Note: With the help of shortening, you can stimulate the growth of buds and shoots, as well as make the fruiting branches thicker. Pruning too much, however, can cause the plant to weaken and yield less.

Thinning allows you to remove unnecessary branches from the crown. With this method, you can increase the size of the fruit and make the tree stronger and more productive. Thus, the number of buds, which only consume the juices of the culture, but do not produce fruits, are reduced. The juice flows faster from the roots to the leaves, the culture grows faster and bears fruit more intensively.

More useful information you will find about cropping in the video.

Types of trimming

Depending on the purposes for which the excess branches are cut, several types of pruning are distinguished. For example, using this procedure, you can form a crown the right size and shape, prolong the fruiting period of the tree or prevent the development of the disease.

Each species has its own characteristics, although it is carried out using the same gardening tools and techniques.

For crown formation

A similar procedure is called formative. It is especially relevant for small backyard plots. With the help of these manipulations, you can create a compact crown, while maintaining high level fruiting (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Formative pruning technique

Removing the branches to form the crown will give the plant a suitable silhouette. In addition, the formed skeletal part becomes more resistant to stress. Depending on the timing of the formative pruning, growth can be slowed down or increased. By removing branches in February, growth will be more active, and cutting in early spring will slow down crop development.

Regulating fruiting

Most often it is carried out in late winter or early spring, but in regions with a mild climate, branches can be removed in autumn.

The main purpose of regulating pruning is to maintain the contours of the crown and to maintain optimal lighting on the branches. In addition, skeletal branches are strengthened in the process. They are not overloaded with young shoots, and the fruits become larger and ripen evenly.

Restorative

In the process, branches and shoots with mechanical or any other damage are removed. They are usually removed in the spring, during the post-winter garden inspection process.

Some of the branches may freeze, so they need to be shortened to healthy wood. All shoots with signs of disease or damage are also cut off. This will preserve the vitality and fruiting of the culture.

Rejuvenating

Required for old trees, which, due to prolonged growth, stop or significantly reduce fruiting. In the process, remove all old branches that form too small fruits or an insufficient amount ovaries (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of anti-aging pruning

Rejuvenating pruning stimulates the growth of new branches. As a rule, the process removes the annual growth (about 10-15 cm), which stimulates the growth of buds and increases the yield.

Timing of pruning fruit trees (when it is best to do)

Asking when is the best time to crop orchard, we can say that the optimal period is autumn, winter and spring, when the movement of sap in the trunk stops and the plant is at rest.

In regions with severe winters, it is recommended to remove branches in autumn or spring so that the cut site is not damaged by frost and the tree does not die. Consider the features of this procedure by seasons.

Autumn

Experienced gardeners advise pruning garden crops in the fall only when absolutely necessary. For example, stone fruit crops do not tolerate such an event very well and may even die before they get stronger before frost.

However, these warnings do not apply to sanitary cleaning. If you find diseased or damaged branches, they must be removed immediately to save the rest of the plant.

The author of the video will tell you about the main features of autumn pruning.

In winter

In severe frosts, wood becomes very fragile, therefore it is not recommended to remove it. In fact, this is the only limitation, because in winter all plants are at rest and branches can be removed freely if the weather is relatively warm and calm.

Figure 5. Pruning an orchard in winter

The main advantage of the procedure is that the tree is less stressed and the wound heals faster. In addition, lesions are much more visible on branches devoid of leaves (Figure 5).

In the spring

It is believed that you can start pruning at any time with the onset of spring. Actually this is not true. It is better to start the procedure when the sap flow has not yet begun, but the tree is already ready to wake up. In this case, the culture will not experience severe stress, and the wound will heal faster (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Spring pruning of an orchard

Since the timing of the removal of damaged branches and growth in different cultures differ, the gardener gets the opportunity to plan the work so as to provide all the trees with the necessary care.

It is advisable to start work on a quiet, windless day at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. All wounds are covered with garden varnish or yellow clay to accelerate the formation of colus.

Summer

Summer Special attention are given to seedlings. They need to remove the tops of growing shoots to form a crown.

However, when diseases are detected, infected branches are removed without waiting for the cessation of sap flow. If this is not done, the disease can quickly spread throughout the garden. All remote branches must be burned immediately.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

The most important requirement for pruning fruit trees in winter is the absence of severe frost. If the air temperature is below -8 degrees, work cannot be carried out.

Note: Despite the fact that in winter the plants are dormant and more easily endure stress after removing branches, in severe frost the wound will take too long to heal and can lead to the death of the entire culture.

However, in winter it is much easier to detect damage, since the crown is completely devoid of foliage and defects become more noticeable. It also makes the cut smoother and more precise. It is better to remove thin branches with pruning shears, and file thick ones on both sides so that the cut is even and healthy wood is not injured.

Choice of cropping tools

To delete branches, you need to use special tools. To the main garden tools include (Figure 7):

Secateurs- it is better to choose a regular model, and not a ratchet tool, since it will have to be pressed several times to cut. Using a simple pruner is much easier and more convenient.
Hacksaw with spaces between the teeth. This design will prevent the accumulation of sawdust and keep your inventory clean. For work in the garden, choose only a special hacksaw, which is not recommended for use for other work, so that the blade does not become dull.
Air sector- a tool with a telescopic handle to which the blades are attached. To make a cut, it is enough to use a special lever. Such a tool will be very useful for cutting off the upper branches.

Figure 7. Basic gardening Tools for trimming

In addition to inventory, you need to buy a garden var - a special ointment that covers the wounds on the branches for faster healing.

Many novice gardeners mistakenly believe that there is no particular need to prune a tree in the fall, arguing that, they say, it "still goes into hibernation." However, they are very wrong; Pruning fruit trees in autumn; - no less important matter than at any other time of the year, and why, let's figure it out together.

Why do you need autumn pruning of trees

Autumn pruning is mainly carried out in the form of sanitary. It is necessary, first of all, in order to prevent insects and various pathogens from continuing their destructive activity in winter and spring after the awakening of the plant. To prevent this from happening, broken and diseased branches must be removed. And when the air passes freely between the healthy branches, and they are well illuminated by the direct rays of the winter sun, even the pests and diseases left after pruning you will not leave a single chance for life. Also, do not forget about thinning pruning, which eliminates the breakage of branches in winter time caused by heavy snowfall and icing. A dense crown at this time of year can accumulate a large mass of snow and ice, which often breaks even thick branches. And here, as you yourself understand, there is no time for pests ...

Features of pruning fruit trees in autumn

Autumn pruning, which includes sanitary, thinning shaping, is mainly applied to seed crops, such as an apple tree, a quince pear, but in stone fruit trees they carry out exclusively sanitary. During the year, the fruit tree stays in different conditions.
In autumn (and this is precisely our case), it sheds its leaves and prepares for winter, completing the annual cycle of its life. In this period nutrients accumulated over the summer at the top of the crown, begin to leave it and concentrate below - in the trunk and further to the root. Some of the peculiarities of autumn pruning are related to this, after which, by removing thick branches from neglected or poorly formed trees, you exclude the expiration and loss of sap after the tree wakes up in the spring. The outflow of sap mainly occurs with late pruning of mature trees in the spring, this is more pronounced in the apple tree. The loss of sap often leads to a weakening and disease of the tree, this is mainly the culprit of the gardeners themselves, many of whom postpone pruning until warming and good, convenient access to the tree. Even more often, listening to advice does not experienced gardeners.

The procedure for pruning trees

First you need to decide what kind of pruning your tree needs. - you need to start the autumn pruning of trees in the period from September until the established frosts; - unlike spring, when the tree is actively gaining strength and is very vulnerable, in autumn it tolerates pruning very well. Pruning trees is a work that requires care, so it is better to divide it into main stages and perform in the following order:

Important!

do not use blunt tools: they can leave torn edges that take a long time to tighten; when pruning fruit trees in autumn, leave as many branches horizontally as possible, because they are the most fruitful; approach each tree individually and thoughtfully. If you do not have enough free time to prune trees in your garden or you feel insecure before this responsible procedure, you can contact the company "Your Garden 24". We employ specialists with solid experience and rich experience who will relieve you of unnecessary worries and professionally prepare your fruit trees to the long cold winter.

" Trees

Pruning trees is the key to success and is a must-have procedure that every seasoned gardener knows about. Any fruit tree requires constant and careful care. Only in this case will it give a rich harvest.

Fruit trees such as apple, pear and stone fruit need pruning. They are very picky about pruning. Why prune fruit trees?

By pruning, gardeners solve several problems at once:

Growth and fruiting.
Reducing the size of the crown.
The phytosanitary task is to create conditions unfavorable for pests and diseases.

The procedure for pruning trees prolongs their life and leads to a rich harvest.

If little light enters the crown, then the branches inside the crown do not bear fruit and eventually die off. Fruits form only on those branches of the tree where light hits.

AND if the tree was trimmed rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on hard-to-reach branches, as a rule, located high.

Thanks to the trimming procedure the crown of the tree is formed correctly... This leads to the growth of side branches and allows you to get more fruit on the available branches.

When and which trees in the garden can be pruned

Pruning fruit trees in a particular season depends on the following factors:

what goal the gardener wants to achieve with this procedure;
in what climatic conditions the garden is located;
from the type of tree.

What time of year is it better to prune: spring, summer, winter or autumn?

In central and northern regions Of Russia autumn pruning is not recommended, as due to severe frosts, the wounds on the trees will not have time to heal.

This also happens because the movement of the sap in the tree slows down, as it goes into a state of rest. As a result, the tree can get sick and die.

Therefore, pruning in these regions is best done in early spring rather than fall. It is important to take into account that the procedure can be carried out as soon as the air temperature has risen above 0 ℃.

Besides it is important to start pruning from old trees, since the buds on them swell faster than on young ones, it is recommended that pruning be done strictly before the buds swell.

Pruning fruit trees in spring:

In the southern regions of the country, pruning can be done in winter period ... This is due to the fact that in the south the frosts are not as strong as in the north.

Winter pruning is primarily carried out in order to rejuvenate old trees and create the correct crown for young seedlings.

Also winter pruning is often done to reduce the fruiting of young trees... It is believed that a tree that gives rich harvests for 2-3 years in a row should be allowed to rest.

In addition, from high harvest thin branches young tree may break. Therefore, it is important to cut off excess branches in winter. In winter, gardeners first prune seed breeds, and then stone fruits.

The ideal size for a fruit tree is 3 m in height and 3 m in width. They will allow you to harvest most of the crop without the aid of stepladders or ladders.

Some gardeners think summer is the best time to prune.... But in this case it comes about trees 3 years and older. They argue that pruning during the summer months leads to a vigorous growth of new shoots.

In addition, if pruning is done while the fruit is being poured, the quality of the fruit is noticeably improved.

Another plus of summer pruning is the sap the tree produces. It covers the wound, which leads to rapid healing, and also acts as a defense against pests.

Most experienced gardeners find that pruning is best done when the tree is resting. Therefore, they prefer early spring.

At what age should fruit trees be pruned

This procedure can be started. annual shoots for crown formation.

If the tree has already reached 10-15 years of age, it is considered old. In such a tree, the number of growths and yield decreases. He needs a rejuvenating pruning.

For this, branches are cut for 3-7-year-old wood. Thus, the crown is reduced. But by next year, young shoots will thicken it. It is important to make sure that the number of cuts on one side of the branch does not exceed three.

Which plants to do and which ones do not

The pruning procedure is required for almost all fruit trees. Since it is she who leads to an increase in yield, allows you to accelerate the growth of the tree, and also protects its numerous pests and diseases.

Trim, apricot, cherry plum is possible only when leaves appear on the trees. If this is done while the tree is dormant, then pruning can lead to damage to the trees by fungi and diseases.

In the summer, you can remove dried branches, also shorten new shoots and remove branches that interfere with the crown.

Features of the procedure

It is important to prune trees carefully and follow the basic rules so as not to harm.

Timing

First of all, you need to decide on the right pruning season. It will depend on the type and age of fruit trees, as well as on the location of the garden and the climate.

Preparing garden tools

An important role as a result of pruning will be played by the availability of all the tools necessary for this procedure.

In order to avoid increasing the diameter of the damaged area on the tree only sharp instruments should be used for cutting.

garden hacksaw;
secateurs;
air pruner - pruner on a long bar, for cutting branches at the top;
ladder;
glasses;
garden var or paint on linseed oil - the means necessary to process the cut site.

Do not trim with a rusty tool... Otherwise, the tree can get sick and die as a result.

Scheme and technology

Before proceeding with the actual pruning, it is necessary to determine why it is needed and draw up an action plan.

Below are the main goals that gardeners achieve with this procedure:

form the correct crown of the tree;
to strengthen thin young shoots;
remove crossed branches, discharge the crown to allow sunlight to enter it;
remove diseased branches, making it possible to grow healthy;
an increase in the number of fruiting branches;
prepare the tree for the winter period.

If you need to get the maximum from the fruit tree rapid growth, during the pruning period, it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.

Once the goal has been determined, it is important to learn pruning techniques. Several techniques are known, among which the most popular are three:

Kidney cut... This technique helps to set the right direction for branch growth. You should find a branch with good growth. The cutting head of the secateurs should be turned towards the left part of the branch. The cut is made at a slight angle of 5 mm. in front of the kidney. New branch will grow in the direction the bud is facing.
Ring cut... This technique is used when it is necessary to remove a full-fledged branch that grows inside the crown, interferes with other branches and creates density. The scheme is as follows: in the place where the branches are connected, it is necessary to cut exactly along the outer ring.
Side branch cut... This technique allows you to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Inactive branches are cut, and the side branches take over the function of the main branches.

Good care after

If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, the wound should be cleaned without fail. To do this, you need to buy or prepare your own garden pitch and treat the wound on the tree with it.

If the garden var for some reason does not fit the wound, you can use paint on drying oil.

Young fruit trees should only be trimmed for the purpose of shaping correct crown... Otherwise, pruning can lead to a deterioration in fruiting properties.

People who take care of their trees and prune correctly and on time always receive gratitude in the form of a good harvest.

If a person first decided to do this procedure, it is very important to follow the recommendations of knowledgeable gardeners, as this process it seems simple only at first glance.

But in fact, carelessness and ignorance can lead to the death of a plant.

Pruning fruit trees in the fall is one of the must-have activities in the garden. It is of great importance for the successful wintering of plantations. However, you need to know all the important little things in order to do this operation correctly. In the article we will tell you how to prune trees in the fall, indicate the timing and pruning schemes.

Types of tree pruning

There are three main types of pruning: shaping, sanitary, and anti-aging. Each of them has its own goals, each is carried out according to clearly established rules and within a certain time frame.

Unfortunately, many seasoned gardeners have no idea how to properly prune trees in the fall, resulting in small yields.

Formative pruning is applied to young trees and beyond. Since it includes shortening and thinning, such an operation is aimed at increasing the penetration of light into the crown, improving its ventilation, controlling growth, stimulating fruit formation and developing lateral shoots. It is most often carried out in the spring, but some shrubs need it in the fall. Formative pruning involves the removal of intertwined shoots growing inwardly to the crown, sagging to the ground.

🎧 How to prune and plant trees in the garden?

An expert summer resident Andrey Tumanov says: "How to properly cut and plant trees in the garden." For 20 years, the author has hosted a number of programs on TV dedicated to amateur gardening and horticulture - "Fazenda", "Gryadka", "Our Garden", "Village Hour", "Field Work".

Autumn pruning dates

Autumn tree pruning is carried out only in areas with moderate climatic conditions. In the northern regions of Russia, it is not recommended to carry out such manipulations: trees may not recover until frost, from which the sections will freeze. As a result, their bark will dry out, and spring growth of new shoots will be impossible.

It is worth noting that only mature trees need to be pruned in autumn, since this time of year is not quite suitable option for pruning young seedlings.

In addition, autumn is not suitable for pruning young seedlings. They can only be cut in the spring. Some gardeners believe that autumn pruning should be done in September and October. However, experts insist that it should be done in late October - early November - at a time when sap flow slows down inside the plants.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning

When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to how many branches it has. If there is a lot, then you can easily choose 5-6 basic ones.
The lower tier of branches on the trunk must be removed.
The height from the root collar to the base of the shoots should be 25-40 cm. The branches knocking out from above are also removed. Sections are smeared with varnish-based paint or garden varnish.
Removal is carried out "on the ring". Even small stumps should not be left, as this will cause the bark around the knot to die off. Then a gum forms at the cut site, then a hollow. During the frost period, the process of destruction will worsen.

In southern regions, autumn pruning is even recommended for unloading in spring. Pre-winter pruning is tolerated by undersized frost-resistant varieties fruit, as well as blackberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, viburnum, lemongrass, grapes (in the covering area).

Autumn pruning scheme

Each tree or shrub requires an individual approach in this matter. When pruning, you need to follow these rules:

the lower branches should always be thicker than the upper ones. This is how the tiers are formed;
an escape that interferes with neighboring branches is shortened by 1/3 in relation to others;
it is necessary to shorten branches growing at 90 degrees in relation to the trunk;
the first tier should contain branches that are located in relation to each other at an angle of 45 degrees;
the distance between the first and second tiers should be 60-65 cm;
the crown should ideally consist of 3-4 tiers.

A standard pruning scheme for fruit trees that will help many hobby gardeners get the most out of their fruit.

Pruning old trees

When making an autumn pruning of a garden, gardeners should keep in mind not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the trees. As already mentioned, fall pruning is done in September, October, or early November. But the frequency of actions changes. This manipulation is not done every year, but only once every two to three years. This is because the fruiting buds become sterile as the plants age.

Tip # 1. In autumn, for the old garden, rejuvenating pruning is carried out by removing branches that are 4 or more years old. At the same time, branches are left at the bottom, which are slightly thicker than the top ones.

In addition, with rejuvenating pruning, it is necessary to remove excess shoots inside the crown, interfering with each other or having time to intertwine. In this case, diseased, dry, broken branches or those on which lichen is observed are removed. Carrying out such work will give you the opportunity to get a better and more plentiful harvest from old trees, as well as protect them from harmful insects and diseases. You can't do without it correct preparation for wintering.

Pruning young trees

Pruning young trees in the fall is different from pruning old trees. After all, young plants do not require rejuvenation, but correct formation crowns. Each type of fruit tree has its own pruning scheme. And for the formation of a crown, there are such methods:

thinning. Complete cutting of the branch is assumed. This makes it possible to penetrate deep into the crown of sunlight;
shortening. Only part of the branch needs to be removed. Then, in the new season, new shoots will grow around the cut.

Once the crown is formed, it will look light and transparent. For the autumn pruning of young trees, one condition must be observed: give them time to get used to their place of growth. This will take several years.

Especially old, large trees need pruning, firstly, this will rid them of dry, dead branches, and secondly, the tree will continue to grow, giving new branches.

Errors when pruning trees

Leave a stump. The most common mistake is leaving the stump when the entire branch needs to be deleted. A rather long stump left during pruning is immediately overgrown with young shoots. Instead of one branch, which was cut during thinning or to reduce the crown, several new ones appear at once. As a result, the tree resembles a panicle. The tree stump, of course, can dry out, but the bark will slide down, exposing the wood. If you do not correct the mistake in time - do not cut the stump correctly - the trunk will be affected by tissue necrosis, and then by pests and diseases.
When cutting down thick branches, bark seizures. You must first make a filing from the bottom. It turns out that the bark is scuffed, which means that a wound that does not heal for a long time is formed. Large branches need to be removed in parts: first, the branch is cut from below at a maximum distance of 30-40 cm from the base. Then, stepping back 5-10 cm further, a cut is made from above. As a result, the branch will break off, and there will be no bully. The remaining stump must be cut down.
After pruning, thickening of the crown. Instead of several cut branches, after 2-3 years, an abundance of young, actively growing ones appears. This thickening of the crown is a reaction to the pruning of the tree, which seeks to restore the lost mass as quickly as possible. Here is the result: shoots appeared, larger than the usual growths. They pick up nutrients for the rest of the tree. The growth of such shoots should not be allowed. In June, when these growths are still short (10-15 cm), they should be cut or broken down to the very base.

Grafting fruit trees

it effective method growing a cuttings of a valuable variety on a finished stock and a way to save space on the site. Optimal time for this - the second half of spring, when frosts have already been excluded. Trees come out of dormancy in April-May, when warmth sets in. At this time, sap flow begins in the rootstock, and this is a prerequisite for successful vaccination. First of all, you need to prepare the stock. He needs to cut or cut off skeletal branches.

Cuttings - scion - are usually grafted in several ways. One of the most famous and popular - for the bark with a cut bark. Several cuttings can be grafted onto the stem of the cuttings (scion) at the same time. The bark must be carefully incised from the side. Insert the end of the scion cut obliquely there. The inoculation is fixed and lubricated with garden varnish.

To prune trees, you must use special tool- secateurs, as well as other tools, among which the saw is indispensable.

Often used and grafting for the bark with a thorn. The main condition for the correct grafting of trees in this way is the T-shaped cutting of a part of the crown on the stock stem. At the cutting, an oblique cut must be made at the end, which is inserted into the thorn of the rootstock. The graft is secured tightly with a bandage.

Tip # 2. Copulation is used if the stock and the cutting are of the same thickness. Both on the rootstock and on the scion, oblique cuts with a length of 3-4 cm should be made. Connect these parts with cuts and fix them tightly with a bandage.

Gardeners' mistakes when grafting

We must not forget to coat the sections with pitch. Otherwise, the vaccine will not take root.
A prerequisite for a successful vaccination is care during the rehabilitation period.
Poorly sharpened tools cannot be used - the cuts will turn out to be uneven.
Cuttings should not be stored warm and in the light - they will become unsuitable for grafting.

Garden var from natural ingredients can be prepared independently according to this recipe:

Frequently asked questions about pruning and grafting fruit trees

Question number 1. Is tree pruning necessary in horticulture?

With the help of pruning, fruit trees form a strong crown that can withstand the weight of the fruit. If the trees are not cut at all after planting, they will form broom-shaped dense crowns. The interior of them will not receive enough sunlight. On the one hand, this contributes to the development of insect pests and diseases, and on the other hand, it will adversely affect the quality of the crop. Pruning can also regulate the growth, development and fruiting of trees.

Question number 2. How old is the crown of fruit trees?

This process takes place after planting for several years. The duration of the formation stage depends on the strength of the tree's growth, on the fruit species, on the type of crown adopted. For example, palmettes are formed in 3-4 years, and a cupped or improved longline crown - in 7-8 years.

Question number 3. How to prepare the scion correctly?

The cuttings must be 3 cm thick in diameter and 45 cm long. They must be of a pure variety. If your climate zone is different severe frosts, then you need to harvest the scion late autumn or at the beginning of winter.

Question number 4. What is the best time of the year to get vaccinated?

It is best to vaccinate in the spring. It is best to harvest the scion in the fall. If the winter is warm, then it can be prepared just before grafting.

In order for a fruit tree or shrub to give a bountiful harvest, it must not only be watered and fed, but also cut off. Why are some plants pruned in the fall and some in the spring?

Shrubs also need pruning. You need to pay attention to:, blackberries,. The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown to allow enough light to pass through. This, in turn, will lead to active growth of the shrub and an increase in yield. Pests will attack shrubs in smaller numbers.

Black currant is trimmed:

During the dormant period, that is, while there are no leaves and buds on the tree. Also, the operation can be carried out during harvest.
Berries appear not only on mature, but also on young shoots. But on old branches the harvest is not so plentiful, and the berries are not so juicy. Old branches can be identified by color, they are darker.
A young bush should have up to 10 large branches. The rest can be deleted.
When the bush matures, only the oldest shoots are removed, their number will be 1/3 of all.
The remaining shoots are shortened either to the very base or to the first bud.
New branches should be added from the roots, therefore, after pruning, the bushes spud.

Raspberries and blackberries are trimmed:

... This period begins at the end of summer.
Pruning is sanitary, that is, diseased or dried branches are eliminated.
Fruits appear on the shoots of the second year.
After harvesting, they can be cut to the very base, and up to 10 branches are left for the new season.
Fruiting on the remaining branches will begin next year.
Young branches are weak in themselves, therefore they need a garter. If the region has a cold climate, then the garter is done in the spring, when the shelter is removed.
If the bush has not given a visible growth, then only the strongest shoots should be left, and the lateral shoots should be shortened.

Cut the gooseberries and currants:

During the dormant period, when there are no leaves and buds on the bush.
You can also do extra pruning in the summer. This is necessary for the formation of a new growth in order to get more harvest.
These shrubs produce berries on old branches, so you only need to leave 5 mature branches no more than 25 cm.

In summer, young branches are cut, leaving only a few leaves. Thus, the shrub will devote all its energy not to the formation of new greenery, but to the ripening of the berries.

Blueberries (blueberries) are trimmed:

In winter or spring, before a period of active growth. Fruiting occurs on lateral last year's shoots.
Young shrubs are pruned only slightly or not touched at all.
Adult shrubs form, leaving adult branches equally, medium and new growth.
After sanitary pruning, young shoots are cut off to 2 buds, which bore fruit last year. If the bush is too thick, then 1/3 of all old branches are cut off at the root.
After pruning, the bush must be mulched and sulfate fertilizers are applied.

Young and mature plants. In most cases, pruning is carried out in the spring to rejuvenate the tree and stimulate the growth of new shoots that will bear fruit in the future.

More information can be found in the video.