Features, advantages and disadvantages of a ceiling chandelier with a fan. How to properly connect a bathroom fan to a switch

Seemingly simple operation - installation new chandelier- a person unfamiliar with electrics can be confused: a bunch of wires and it is not clear what to connect with what. How to connect a chandelier with different amount horns (and wires) to the switch and we will discuss.

Preparation: continuity and phase detection on the ceiling

Those who have at least a little icon with power grids will not need it, the rest will be useful. It can be difficult for a person who does not constantly deal with electricity to navigate. In order not to get confused, we will tell you everything in order: how to find the phase (or phases) and zero in the wires on the ceiling, what to do with grounding. And then, like a whole bunch of wires on a chandelier, connect to those that stick out at the top. As a result, connecting a chandelier with your own hands will be an easy task for you.

Ground wire

If the wiring is already done, two, three or four wires stick out on the ceiling. One of them is exactly “zero”, the rest are phase, there may still be grounding.

There is not always a ground wire, only in houses of new construction or after overhaul with replacement wiring. According to the standard, it has a yellow-green color and is connected to the same wire on the chandelier. If it is not on your chandelier, we carefully isolate the bare wire and leave it in this form. You can’t leave it uninsulated - you can accidentally short it out.

We are looking for phases and zero

You need to deal with the rest of the wires: where is the “phase” and where is “zero”. In houses old building all wires are usually the same color. Most often black. New buildings can be black and blue, or brown and blue. Sometimes there is red. In order not to guess by the colors, it is easier to ring them.

If you have three wires on the ceiling, and a two-gang switch on the wall, you should have two "phases" - for each of the keys and one "zero" - a common wire. You can call with a multimeter (tester) or an indicator screwdriver (this is a special screwdriver with a light that lights up when there is voltage). When working, turn the switch key to the “on” position (the input machine is also turned on). After dialing, turn the switch keys to the "off" position. If possible, it is better to cut down the machine on the shield and connect the chandelier with the power off.

Continuity of wires on the ceiling with a temter

How to ring and determine the wires with a tester is shown in the photo. Set the switch to the "volts" position, select the scale (more than 220 V). Alternately touch the probe pairs of wires (probes, hold the handles, do not touch the bare conductors). Two phases do not “ring” with each other - there will be no changes on the indicator. If you find such a pair, most likely, these are two phases. The third wire is most likely "zero". Now connect each of the proposed phases with probes to zero. The indicator should be 220 V. You found zero - in the international specification it is denoted by the letter N - and two phases - are denoted by L. If all the wires are of the same color, mark them somehow: with paint, a colored marker, a piece of adhesive tape. Phases - in one color, zero - in another.

It is easier to work with an indicator screwdriver: just touch the bare conductor with its end. Lights up - phase, no - zero. Very simple.

If there are only two wires sticking out, then one of them is a phase, the other is zero. There is only one button on the switch. There are no other options.

Wires on a chandelier

Connecting a chandelier with 2 wires is simple: you screw one of them to the phase, the other to zero. Which one, it doesn't matter. If there are two phases on the ceiling, and a two-gang switch on the wall, there are options:

On multi-track chandeliers, there are definitely more than two wires. We decided on the appointment of yellow-green. This is grounding. If the same wire is on the ceiling, connect to it. The rest also need to be dealt with.

A chandelier with 3 wires is not much more difficult to connect. If one of them is ground (yellow-green), you can:

ignore - if there are no wires of this color (or similar) on the ceiling,
connect to the same color.

Actually, there are no other options. Three wires are mainly for lamps with one light bulb. With two - this is an outdated design, with three - more modern, in line with current recommendations.

Connecting to a double switch

Connect a five-, four-, three-arm chandelier to two-gang switch on the same principle. From each of the horns there are two multi-colored wires. Most often these are blue and brown wires, but there are other variations. To connect to double switch all of them need to be divided into three groups: two phases and one zero.

First, all the blue wires are combined with each other and twisted well. This is zero. In principle, you can take wires of a different color - for lighting fixtures it does not matter. But according to the standard, it is “zero” that is indicated in blue. It is only important that conductors painted in a different color do not get into the twist. In the photo below you can see that all conductors of blue color combined into one group. This is "zero".

Now divide the rest into two groups. The breakdown is optional. One group of bulbs will turn on from one key, the second - from another. In a five-horned chandelier, usually 2 + 3 are combined, but 1 + 4 is also possible. There are also two options in the four-horn one - 2 + 2 or 1 + 3. But with three bulbs without options: 1 + 2. Twist the separated wires together. We got two groups that connect to the "phases" on the ceiling.

How to connect a chandelier to a single switch

If there are only two wires on the ceiling, and there are a lot of wires on the chandelier, but only two colors, everything is simple. All conductors of the same color are twisted with bare parts and connected to one of the wires on the ceiling (it doesn’t matter which one). Collect all conductors of the second color in one bundle and attach to the second ceiling. The connection diagram of the chandelier in this case is shown in the figure below.

When this is turned on, all the lights will light up at the same time.

Wire Connection Rules

When working with electricity, there are no trifles. Therefore, we connect the wires in the chandelier according to all the rules. When combined into one group, it is not enough just to twist them and screw on the protective cap.

Connect the wires from the chandelier and the switch in the terminal box

Such a twist will sooner or later oxidize and begin to warm up. It is highly desirable to solder such connections. If you know how to handle a soldering iron and tin, be sure to do it. This will guarantee normal contact and the connection will not heat up.

Now about how to connect the wires from the chandelier to the wires from the switch (which are on the ceiling). According to the latest rules, twisting is not allowed. Terminal boxes must be used. Most modern chandeliers are equipped with them. If not, buy at any hardware or lighting store.

When using such a terminal box, a problem arises: twisting from a large number The wires just don't go through the hole. Output: solder a conductor to the connection (copper, solid or stranded, with a cross section of at least 0.5 mm 2). It is good to insulate this connection, and insert the free end of the soldered conductor into the terminal box (the long one is not needed - cm 10 is more than enough).

Inserting all the wires from the chandelier into the terminal block and tightening the screws, the entire structure is raised to the ceiling. There it is pre-attached, after which it is in the terminal block in right order connect wires. In this case, it is important to set “zeros” one opposite the other. Phases are connected to phases in any order.

How to separate the wires on the chandelier, how to connect the conductor and the chandelier to the terminal block - all this is in the video.

Connecting a Chinese chandelier

Most of the relatively inexpensive chandeliers on the market come from China. What they are good for is a large assortment, but with quality electrical assembly there are problems. Therefore, before connecting the chandelier, you need to check its electrical characteristics.

First check the integrity of the insulation. They can be assembled into one bundle and shorted to the body. The tester should not show anything. If there is any indication, you have two options: look for and replace the damaged wire or take it for an exchange.

The second stage of verification is the verification of each horn. There are two wires coming from the horn. They are soldered to two contacts in the cartridge. Each wire is called with the corresponding contact. The device should show a short circuit ( short circuit or the infinity sign depending on the model).

After checking, start grouping the wires as described above.

Connecting a halogen chandelier (with and without remote control)

Halogen lamps do not work from 220 V, but from 12 V or 24 V. Therefore, step-down transformers are installed in each of them and the whole circuit is assembled and ready for installation. Only two conductors remain free, which must be connected to the wires sticking out on the ceiling. Connected in random order, "phase" and "zero" - do not matter.

If the chandelier is equipped with a remote control, another control unit is added to the transformers. The connection is similar: there are two conductors that need to be connected to the one on the ceiling. The third conductor coming from the other side (it is thin) is an antenna, with the help of which the remote control and the control unit “communicate”. This conductor remains inside the glass in the form in which it is.

How to connect a chandelier with a remote control, see the following video.

Purchase FAN BOX in a household or electrical goods store. It's better to buy an "old style" box (not a new style) if you don't have access to the ceiling from above. There are two types of boxes of the old design: the first is a fan that wraps around an existing beam; it is easier to put it, but here it is required to “detect” the beam, and not “go around” it. The second type on an adjustable hinge, which can be extended between two beams, is more difficult to do, but gives more options for positioning. Both types of structures work equally well.

Once you have determined where to install the fan, “check if you have access to power”. Check out the section below for some tips on power supply. Adjust the location as you need. Then cut a hole there with a drywall saw; it should be just the right size so that you can easily stick your fingers in and check if there are any obstacles for the box. Such a small hole is easier to patch if its location is inappropriate.

If there are no obstacles (wires, pipes, fittings, etc.) mark the fan box on the ceiling where it will be installed and cut a hole through it with a saw.

If the installation is in a kitchen or dining room, then the existing power supply you choose may contain wires of larger gauge, #12. Regardless of location, if your power supply is #12 wired, you need to use #12-2 or ##12-3 instead of #14-2 or #14-3 where indicated below by the " * " (General rule – never do not connect together wires with different cross-sections).

Remove wire #14-2* or #14-3* from the junction box where BOTH and #14* hot wire 120 volts AND neutral to fan are disconnected. If your fan has a remote control, it can be powered directly from a 120 volt outlet. But it will be better if you install and connect a new junction box outside, so that it turns on the fan. If you ever decide to remove it and replace it with a chandelier, then there will be a ready-made switch on the wall.

Wire #14-2* is used if you want: a) turn on / off the fan and lighting (if possible) with one switch; b) turn on / off the fan and / or the light with the remote control that comes with the fan or is purchased separately.

Wire No. 14-3 * needed for: c) turn on the fan regardless of the lighting with two switches in one box.

Wire #14-3* provides a, b or c connection options with the most flexibility at a low cost.

Use suitable connectors where needed, route the wires in the fan housing through the entry holes.

Reinforce the fan junction box according to the manufacturer's instructions. All fans vibrate during operation. Your mount must withstand this constant impact, which is why the NEC (National Electrical Code) mandates the use of boxes specifically for fans. Many people were injured due to installation flaws before NEC's changes were made. The use of dedicated fan boxes greatly reduces this risk.

Determine if there is a need for special fastening. When mounted to the ceiling at an angle, some fans require a special tilt mount, which may or may not be included. Most fans have a universal mount that fits both horizontal and tilted positions. Choose what suits you best. Pushing the stem down can lower the fan to the level you require.

Fan wiring

In the fan box: if you are using #14-2 or #12-2, wire the following standard color scheme: white wire out of the box to white fan wire, bare/green wire to brown/green wire, black to black AND blue (if available) .

In the fan case: if power comes on #14-3 or #12-3 then you have black wire, red, white and bare (or green). Connect the wires to the fan as follows: white to white, bare (or green) to brown/green at the fan, black to black, and red to blue.

In the switch box: if there are two wall switches or regulators in one box, then all grounds (bare and green) are connected together. The green wire or its screw on each switch must be connected to ground. Twist this connection and press it against the back of the box. Connect the white power wire to the white one from the fan, twist and press against the back of the box as well. With the switches in the ON/OFF positions, connect a 15-20 cm black wire between the black power wire (phase) and screw the top on each switch. Connect the red fan wire to the bottom of switch #1 and the black fan wire to the bottom of switch #2. If the connection is correct, switch #1 turns on the light and switch #2 turns on the fan. If you want to control the fan speed from the switch box, then you need to put the fan speed control on switch no. 2. To adjust the brightness of the light, you can put a dimmer in the same place on switch no. 1.

In the switch box: if there is only one wall switch, then the connection of the white wire and ground is the same as described in the paragraph above. Connect the black power wire (live) to the top screw of the switch. If you want to control the lighting through a wall switch, then connect the black wire of the fan to the power and the red wire of the fan to the switch, then the fan will always have power, it will work regardless of the position of the switch in the circuit, the light will be controlled by the wall switch. In order for the fan to be turned on through the wall switch, and the light to be turned on by a chain, you need to connect the wires in the opposite way.

If there is a control panel, then the white and black wires of the fan are connected directly to the power source, which is always active (socket or switch branch). Mount the remote's signal receiver as the instructions say it should come with it - most often the power supply wire to the remote input (black to black, white to white) as well as the fan/light to the remote output (black to black, white to white). white, blue to blue).

Cover each connection with an insulating clip. Leave some extra wire outside by pushing it inside electrical box. When working on fan wiring, use a "wire hook" to hang the fan on.

Fan Assembly

Follow the manufacturer's specific instructions first. Most fan blades are double-mounted, using screws that go through the holes in the blades and in the pins. You need to assemble all this with care, but do not tighten it too tightly, otherwise you can damage the surface of the blades and strip the threads. On many fans you will find pins to mount to the motor case. In this case, assemble them before installing them on the blades.

You will need 3 or 4 hands to assemble the fan blades/support and attach to the motor. This is a very uncomfortable job.

The manufacturer's instructions may vary, but if the fan blades are less than the length of a screwdriver from the ceiling, it is best to install them before hanging the fan.

Some fans have a "speed ring" that will allow you to assemble the blades on the floor and then install them on the motor after it has been hung from the ceiling. For this:

Attach each blade to the ring, then attach the ring to the motor using rubber grommets and mounting screws.
Attach the cover to the ring and install the decorative trim.

Fan suspension

Mount the hanging bracket on the body, fix it with screws and lock with washers. If there are no washers, then you need to buy them, because. fan vibration can loosen the screws over time. The bracket can take the form of a semicircle or hook, depending on your fan. In any case, carefully slide the hook into the bracket. If it is a semicircle, then screw it in until the bracket fits into its grooves.

Connect the top fan socket to the motor housing by screwing on the mounting ring. If you have a high ceiling, you can also attach a straw to the bracket.

Hang the already assembled motor on the two hooks of the mounting bracket

Reconnect the wires, starting with ground. Be sure to connect the black wire from power to the fan and the white wire to the white. Connect the ground from the box, fan and power supply together with an insulating clamp. Hide all the wires inside the top socket and attach it to the bracket.

Install the cover to its full height all the way to the ceiling and tighten it there.

Connect the fan motor to the bracket, securing it with screws. Turn on the power and make sure the connection works - remember that both wall switches and the cord switch on the fan must be in the ON position.

Lighting installation (if applicable)

Connect the connectors of the two white wires and the black wire of the chandelier to the marked wiring of the bracket. If the fan and light have a plug and socket to connect, then simply connect them by inserting the plug into the socket. Attach the lighting kit to the fan with screws.

Power on and check your connection. Check if the fan is swinging.

Carefully inspect the blades before attaching them to the fan. Blades colliding at the top will upset the balance and can potentially cause problems such as damage to wood or plastic surfaces, or warping of metal blades and bracket. If any of the above is present, it may cause wobble and/or noise during operation, especially at high RPMs.
For the purposes of this article, a power source is any permanent (which can only be turned off by a panel switch or fuse) 120 volt source, consisting of a phase (live wire, usually black, rarely red or blue) and neutral ( almost always white), a bare or green ground wire may also be present. The neutral must be from the same cable as the phase (plastic insulated, armored, etc.). This source does not have to come out as a new line from the panel, but can come from an existing outlet or even a switch spur where there are at least 2 black and white wire cables in each switch box. An ammeter or tester will help determine which line is which (off or source) and charge the (connected) side.
Use only speed controllers (and never dimmers) to vary the fan speed.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for balancing. Check the entire fan speed range for balance.
For a consideration of working with a large ceiling fan, use the How to Install a Hugger Ceiling Fan guide.
Make sure the fan is quiet (unless it's in a commercial building).
If the fan is installed outdoors, it must be moisture and water resistant.
If you're going to hang a fan in a bedroom or high ceiling, make sure it has a wall switch or remote control.
Only "fan boxes" should be used to support the blades. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation. All bolts must be tightened as tightly as possible to prevent the fan from oscillating, making loud noises or wearing out quickly.
Use the dimmer only to vary the brightness of the lighting. Do not attempt to dimmer compact fluorescents unless they are marked dimmable.
In many cities, only qualified electricians are allowed to perform this work.

Warnings

In some areas, installation electrical equipment in the absence of an electrician's permit is illegal.
Do not use a screwdriver to tighten the screws - use it as long as possible, use hand tools to avoid stripping the screws.
In open and damp areas, use specially designed fans.
White wire insulated with plastic is not always neutral. If you do not understand the last sentence, then contact a professional.

In the hot season, a large fan under the ceiling performs the functions of normalizing the microclimate in the room better than other models of fans. The air flow from it covers a large area. And even at low speeds, the effect is very pleasant for the residents. The fact that the fan takes center stage in the ceiling, which is usually used for a chandelier, does not cause problems, since in some models the functions of the fan and the chandelier are combined.

But fastening to the ceiling of a conventional chandelier and a combined model are somewhat different. For an ordinary chandelier, a hook is enough, which is provided in any room. It is motionless and is not affected by other forces except for the force of gravity. And when the impeller rotates, a torque is generated. It is directed in the direction opposite to rotation. And this feature should be taken into account by the suspension of a ceiling fan of any design, especially combined with a chandelier. In the absence of a rigid fastening, axial movements will appear during the rotation of the impeller.

For high ceilings

A simple ceiling fan does not catch the eye during these movements. But the movement of light bulbs in a chandelier with a fan will create an unpleasant lighting effect in the room. Light and especially shadows will move. If the ceilings in the room are high, false ceilings are usually installed. The base of an ordinary chandelier is made according to the level false ceiling and hung on a chain or on a cable. For a chandelier with a fan, these extensions cannot be used. In this case, the best extension would be metal pipe. Its diameter should be such that it is put on the ceiling hook with two holes made near its end. These hook holes should be diametrically opposed.

The pipe is also convenient for arranging wires inside it. Although the wires are connected, as if to one device, they actually create two separately operating circuits. After all, during the day when the impeller rotates, the light of the lamp is not needed. Therefore, to control lamps in the simplest circuit, you will need the same thing as for a chandelier. And the fan has its own separate circuit. It allows you to adjust the speed of the impeller. The connection diagram of the simplest model is shown in the image below. It has one lamp and one speed of rotation of the impeller. Therefore, to control such a chandelier - a fan, a switch with two keys is enough.

Variety of models

The number of lamps can be three, five, and sometimes more. The speed of the impeller can be divided into two or three steps and even continuously adjustable. You can also smoothly adjust the light of the lamps using dimmers. There are many models of such combined structures and it is unlikely that they can be standardized with several schemes. In order not to experience problems with the installation of the connection diagram for such a chandelier, when buying, you need to make sure that the accompanying documentation is available and everything is clearly stated in it regarding connecting the product to the mains.

If the wiring diagram for a chandelier with a fan turns out to be too complicated to assemble it yourself, there will surely be specialists who will do everything necessary. When the selected model contains sensors for controlling lighting, or the speed of rotation of the impeller, there is a separate control unit, the possibility of programming is better to solve the issue immediately upon purchase by calling a specialist in order to connect such a chandelier with a fan. DIY complex scheme you can not only not collect, but also disable something.

Air circulation is very important, so the combination of a ceiling chandelier with a fan creates optimal conditions for work. Such lighting devices can provide an influx fresh air in any season. Reviews of these models indicate that the rotation of its elements does not lower the degree in the room.

At the price of lighting fixtures with a fan are different:

in a low price category, which you can buy very inexpensively;
at an average price, based on the family budget, select the appropriate quality;
There are luxury models, their price is quite high.

If someone wondered how to connect a chandelier with a fan on their own in a three-phase network, then here you can find information on this issue.

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, it is important to decide on the choice of its location so that the light falls evenly without disturbing the general mood of the room. If you plan to connect it to the place of the last chandelier, then you can skip this item.

Next, determine the approximate weight of the chandelier and if you find that it weighs more than 13-15 kg, you need to install a beam to help hold the chandelier. If you skip this step, you can damage the wires or the surface of the ceiling. V ordinary apartments it is unlikely that such a heavy chandelier will be found, therefore, most likely, you can do without installing an auxiliary beam.

Junction box installation

Before you start connecting the chandelier with a fan, you must connect the junction box to the power cable. This must be done carefully and carefully, following all safety regulations.

The heart of the structure, that is, the electrical circuit, should be connected at a distance of just over 10 cm with installed box, a reserve of wires after connecting the cable is necessary in case of damage to the wires. Then you need to close all the wires with a special cover. All wires must be insulated and the box tightly bolted.

There are already many reviews that are full of pleasant words in favor of such a design. This is not surprising, because buying such a lamp means giving yourself a soft, pleasant coolness along with gentle lighting. Air conditioners consume a large amount of electricity, which cannot be said about ceiling chandeliers-fans, which you can buy in a specialized store. For example, you can find high-quality, refined and functional model at Leroy Merlin.

Moscow stores have established themselves as reliable suppliers of quality designs, where you can easily find a wide variety of lighting fixtures and inexpensively. A photo of a chandelier with a fan will help you get to know the design better. In addition, the photos that are in this article can be a great helper in choosing a chandelier suitable for dealing with stuffy and stagnant air in the room. The price of a chandelier with a fan is low compared to an air conditioner and it is still more profitable to purchase such a design than an air conditioner and a chandelier separately.

A fan is a device that creates a stream of air to cool or circulate it to eliminate unpleasant odors or removal harmful substances. Fans in everyday life are used as:

desktop or floor instruments for creating comfortable conditions in hot weather;
exhaust devices in kitchens, bathrooms and toilets;
v computer technology for cooling power units: power supply, processor, hard drives, as well as for housing ventilation;
v welding inverters for cooling power electronic components.

Fans fail, but not in all cases you need to rush to go to a specialized workshop. The cost of repairing some products is sometimes commensurate with the cost of buying new ones. Therefore, it is better to try to repair them yourself.

Do-it-yourself fan repair

Signs of malfunction mechanical fan parts are:

outsiders noises at work;
deceleration rotation, while the rotation of the shaft of the switched off device by hand occurs with force;
full stop, in which the rotation of the fan shaft by hand is impossible or requires considerable effort.

TO electric faults include:

actuation protective devices (circuit breakers) when the fan is turned on;
smells burnt or overheated insulation during operation;
deceleration rotation during free rotation of the shaft of the switched off device;
interruptions in operation when changing modes.

Untimely eliminated mechanical faults progress in development and lead to electrical problems. Long work fan with a jammed shaft leads to overheating and failure of the motor windings. A loose bearing allows the motor shaft to move in a radial direction, which leads to damage to the stator windings.

Therefore, if signs of a malfunction are found, it should be immediately addressed.

Troubleshooting

Household fans do not include rolling bearings or the like, which are replaced in case of failure. They install plain bearings, the shaft rotates in bronze bushings. They are permanently pressed into the body. But, even if they are taken out of there, there will be nothing to replace them. Therefore, such bearings must be lubricated in a timely manner. Once they work “dry” for some time, the clearance between the shaft and the bearing will increase. This will lead to axial runout of the shaft, resulting in extraneous noise, a decrease in speed and an increase in the rate of bearing wear. This is especially fatal for computer coolers.

Used for lubrication machine oil, but it is better to use spindle. If the house has sewing machine, then the oil for its lubrication - the best way for fan bearings. For lubrication, the fan must be disassembled to get to the bearings. For coolers and some exhaust fans, it is enough to peel off protective film from one side.

Pay attention to the presence pollution bearing. In some cases, you will have to disassemble the assembly, clean it, and then reassemble and lubricate it. No need to apply a lot of grease: the bearing for normal operation one or two drops are enough. The rest will be sprayed all over the body at the first start. Drops of oil inside the housing do a good job of collecting dust.

If, after lubrication, there is still noise during operation, the beating of the shaft, then the product will have to be thrown away. The plain bearing cannot be replaced.

Troubleshooting the electrical part of the fan

When the fan stops completely, you need to check the serviceability power cord and switches operating mode. This will require a multimeter. best method power cord checks - measure the voltage at the fan input terminal block or at the places where the cord is connected to its internal elements. Be careful when checking: do not touch live areas with your hands. After checking, immediately remove the plug from the socket.

The serviceability of the switches is checked by measuring their resistance in the "on" position. They can fail with frequent switching. It is best to immediately measure the voltage on the electric motor, but for this you need to know wiring diagram fan. And also - the principle of its operation and control of the rotation speed.

Speed control is carried out by switching the outputs from the engine. In this case, one of its windings has a number of taps (taps), by switching which the number of turns on the stator changes. With this scheme, you need to measure before and after the switch to find out if it is working. If the voltage is on, but the motor does not rotate, you need to measure the resistance of its windings. If the device shows a break, then the engine is to blame for the malfunction.

Another element, the malfunction of which leads to the stop of the fan, is phase shifting capacitor. In circuits where it is used, the motor has two windings. One of them is connected to the power supply directly, and the other is connected through a capacitor that performs a voltage shift on it in phase by 90 degrees.

If the capacitor fails, the winding either does not receive power, or there is no phase shift. In both cases, the motor will not rotate. You can check the health of the capacitor with a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. In this case, you need to choose the largest measurement limit. Before connecting the device, the capacitor must be discharged by closing its terminals to each other.

If at the moment the multimeter probes are touched, readings appear briefly, and then it shows a “break”, then the capacitor is good. If its readings are zero or infinity and do not change, then the capacitor is out of order and needs to be replaced.

The operating voltage of the new capacitor should not be less than that of the replaced one, and the capacitance should correspond to the original one. Its value is calculated in relation to the parameters of the motor winding, if it is changed, then the phase shift angle will be more or less than 90˚, and the fan will not start, or will rotate more slowly.

Attention, do not confuse the conclusions of the windings. Before disconnecting, mark the wires and draw how they were connected. Take additional photos of the assembly before disassembly.

If breaks in the motor windings are detected, the repair ends. You can try to find the place of the break or make sure that the winding is burned out (this is indicated by the darkening of the color of the insulation of its wires). But the rewinding of modern household devices is not economically feasible, and in order to carry it out at home, you need to have the professional skills of a wrapper. Therefore, devices with burned-out electric motors can be thrown away without remorse.

The same applies to malfunctions of electronic fan speed control devices.