A simple gas burner from a pipe with your own hands. DIY manual gas burner

You can make a gas burner for soldering yourself. The design has a different configuration. Often dimensions do not exceed length ballpoint pen. It is used to heat the metal for the purpose of subsequent hardening or welding. In some cases, a burner is made to heat the bitumen on the roof. Homemade fixtures are much cheaper than purchased counterparts.

Description of the principle of operation

The principle of operation of a gas burner is based on the directional supply of a mixture of gas and oxygen. At the same time, the supply torch maintains a constant shape and temperature. As a result, after heating 2 surfaces, their hermetic connection is formed using molten solder. This material must have sufficient adhesion, adhere well to hot surfaces and have strength after cooling. The gas burner keeps the solder at such a temperature that it becomes viscous. In this case, the total heating should not exceed the melting point of the base material.

In some cases, a little heat is applied. This is required when it is necessary to dismantle a press fit part. For example, bushing or bearing. This is especially applicable to cases where the parts have different coefficients of expansion. Heating is also used in jobs where welding cannot be used.

DIY manufacturing process

To make homemade equipment, you need to take into account some nuances:

• The output device gives a temperature of 1000 degrees. Therefore, refractory metals are used in the manufacture.
• An important condition for safe operation is a reliable crane. In the event of an accident, it must quickly cut off the air flow.
• Reliability of the gas connection.

A manual gas burner for do-it-yourself soldering can be made in the form of a miniature fixture. For the manufacture of such mini-equipment materials needed:

• brass or copper pipes;
• a block of wood;
• silicone or fluoroplastic as a sealing material.

The drawing of the device consists of a body in the form of a pipe ending with a nozzle. On the other side, a gas supply hose is installed. The nozzle is equipped with a divider for adjusting the flame.

A do-it-yourself gas burner for soldering is made in the following order:

• A faucet is attached to the tube with silicone.
• On the other hand, the tube is muffled and a hole of 0.2-0.3 mm is made in it. For this, a special drill and chuck are used.
• After that, the burner is clamped in a vice and the hole is flattened to 0.1 mm with a hammer.
• Sandpaper removes all burrs.

The divider can be made from a brass tube that is larger than the diameter of the burner. Mounting is carried out parallel to the body. The system will work on the principle of a tourist stove. In the place where the gas comes out of the nozzle, a vacuum is formed and air is sucked in.

Device with two needles

A miniature do-it-yourself propane burner is made from 2 needles. One needle can be taken from the pump, and the other from the syringe. You will also need two droppers and a compressor from the aquarium. The device is connected to a cartridge for charging lighters. You will also need copper wire.

The temperature in such a burner reaches 1000 degrees. It is made in the following order:

The gas coming from the canister is mixed in a thick needle with the air coming from the compressor. The composition of the mixture is changed by regulators.

If there is no compressor, you can replace it with a plastic bottle:

The burner is ready for use.

The design of the device with piezo ignition

Portable gas-burner with piezo ignition for soldering is characterized by the formation of a stable flame. The device consists of a cylinder that contains gas. A nozzle is installed on top. It is attached with a hose-adapter.

This design does not require heating, it does not clog and odors do not accumulate in it. It has small dimensions, weight and cost.

The task of the piezo ignition is to automatically ignite the fuel. This is convenient when there are no matches. However, this and the most vulnerable part of the structure. At proper care it will last for a long time.

Gas burner for soldering at home - necessary thing. With its help, copper and brass items are repaired. These are the parts that make up radiators and heat exchangers. The device is of great help during the repair of the car body, when high temperatures can cause metal warping.

In this article, we will look at how a do-it-yourself gas burner for soldering is made. This device is often in demand both in the private sector and for commercial purposes - for individual technical creativity and various construction tasks. In particular, with the help of gas burners soldering, plumbing and blacksmithing, roofing, jewelry work is carried out, and a flame whose temperature exceeds 1500 ° C is also obtained for other purposes.

In plumbing, using a gas burner, you can heat a metal blank so that in the end it turns out to be sufficiently hardened. When carrying out welding work with some metals, the places of future seams must be warmed up.

Parameters for making a soldering torch

First, the device must be made of refractory metals. With a properly adjusted burner, temperatures in excess of 1000°C can be achieved.
Secondly, the burner must be equipped with a reliable working valve that, in the event of a dangerous situation, will shut off the gas supply.
Thirdly, you need to use a reliable connection to a tank with a valve or a 5-liter propane tank with a reducer, which will eliminate the risk of accidents.

Shown below typical scheme and the principle of operation of the injection gas burner:

Gas is supplied under pressure through the hose (1) - usually propane. When the liquefied gas in the cylinder evaporates, pressure is created - enough to provide a stable directional flame. Here, a reducer is not needed; a working valve (2) is used to adjust the volume of gas.
The jet enters through the supply tube (3) to the nozzle, and to the nipple (6), which sets the direction of the fire, which is located in the insert (5). This liner mixes gas and air. In the nozzle, the screw fixes the liner. The burner is collapsible, so the nipple can be cleaned.
From the liner, the mixture of air and gas is fed into the nozzle of the nozzle (8). There, oxygen further saturates the mixture. With the ventilation holes (7) stable combustion is achieved.

With these dimensions, the burner is designed for cylinders up to 5 liters.
How the insert is arranged - we will consider separately, the dimensions are shown in the drawing:

The inner diameter of the liner tube (1) must be 0.5 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the nozzle. A washer (2) with air holes is welded inside. The sleeve (2) fixes the tube with the nipple.

The design is different in that when the tab is moved in the nozzle, it is possible to adjust the suction of air through the ventilation holes - and as a result, adjust the temperature of the fire in a wide range.

Making a gas burner from scrap materials: step by step

List of materials and tools:
drill;
Bulgarian;
hammer;
sandpaper;
blanks made of brass for the nozzle of the divider;
thin brass tube with a diameter of 15 mm;
wooden bars;
vise;
silicone sealant or FUM tape;
hoses for connection;
valve for adjustment.

How to make a nozzle and a handle

First of all, we take brass tube and attach a handle to it - for example, from an old burner, or from wooden block before processing it. In the bar, we drill a hole for a brass tube with the appropriate diameter. Putting the tube into the timber, we fix it with silicone or epoxy.

Important! To make it more convenient to work, we bend the brass tube above the handle at an angle of 45˚.

Next, we proceed to a more time-consuming and lengthy stage of work - the manufacture of the nozzle. The hole size should preferably be 0.1 mm.

With a drill, you can make a slightly larger hole, and then adjust the edges to 0.1 mm. The hole must have correct form to keep the flame even.

After that, we fix the workpiece in a vise, take a hammer and carefully, in a vertical plane with a “branch” to the middle of the workpiece, strike the future nozzle. We evenly scroll the product to form an ideal hole.

Then we take sandpaper with fine grit and skin the nozzle head. To connect to the tube, a thread is applied to the back of the product, and the elements can also be simply soldered - but in the future the repair of parts will be more difficult.

Now we connect the device to gas cylinder and set it on fire - the do-it-yourself burner is ready for work. However, here you can see that to adjust the gas flow, you can only open and close the valve of the gas cylinder, and in this way it is very difficult to obtain the desired flame. What we can do?

How to improve flame control

For normal operation our homemade unit we will install a divider and a crane on it. It is better to mount the faucet near the handle, at a distance of about 2–4 cm, but it can also be mounted on the inlet pipe. As an option, take a burner tap from an old autogen or another similar tap that is threaded. To seal the connection, we take the FUM tape.

The divider is installed on a pipe with a nozzle, it is made of brass, diameter 15 mm. by the most the best option is a cylindrical part, where there is a hole for a tube with a nozzle.
If it doesn't exist, do this:
1. We take a brass pipe with a diameter of 35 mm and cut off a piece of 100–150 mm.
2. We take a marker, step back from the end and mark 3-5 points, with an equal distance between them.
3. We drill holes of 8–10 mm in the pipe, take a grinder and make cuts evenly to them.
4. We bend everything to the center and weld it to the burner pipe.

For proper fixation of the divider, place it in such a way that the nozzle protrudes 2–3 mm from the junction. Due to such a device, the flame will be protected from strong wind, and will also be fed by the flow of oxygen and maintain a steady and strong combustion.
We smooth all welding places with a grinder - so our unit will have a more presentable appearance. Now the burner is ready! We bring gas to it and you can get to work.

Do-it-yourself burner: video

The purpose of this article is to tell you how to make a gas burner with your own hands. Gas burners in small business, individual technical creativity and in everyday life are used very widely for soldering, plumbing and blacksmithing, roofing, jewelry work, for starting heating appliances on gas and obtaining flames with a temperature of over 1500 degrees for various needs.

In the technological aspect, the gas flame is good because it has a high reduction ability (cleanses the metal surface from impurities and restores its oxide to pure metal), without showing any noticeably different chemical activity.

In heat engineering, gas is a highly energy-intensive, relatively inexpensive and clean fuel; 1 GJ gas heat it is usually cheaper than any other energy source, and coking of gas heaters and soot deposition in them is minimal or absent.

But at the same time, let's repeat the common truth: people don't joke with gas. A gas burner is not so complicated, but how to achieve its efficiency and safety - this will be discussed further. With examples of the correct technical performance and recommendations for making your own.

Choosing gas

With their own hands, an exclusively gas burner is made on propane, butane or a propane-butane mixture, those. on gaseous saturated hydrocarbons, and atmospheric air. When using 100% isobutane (see below), it is possible to achieve flame temperatures up to 2000 degrees.

Acetylene allows you to get a flame temperature of up to 3000 degrees, but due to its danger, the high cost of calcium carbide and the need for pure oxygen as an oxidizing agent, it has practically fallen into disuse in welding work. It is possible to obtain pure hydrogen at home; a hydrogen flame from a pressurized burner (see below) gives temperatures up to 2500 degrees. But the raw material for producing hydrogen is expensive and unsafe (one of the components is a strong acid), but the main thing is that hydrogen is not noticeable by smell and taste, it makes no sense to add a mercaptan flavor to it, because hydrogen spreads an order of magnitude faster, and its admixture with air in only 4% already gives explosive explosive gas, and its ignition can occur simply in the light.

Methane not used in domestic gas burners for similar reasons; in addition, it is highly poisonous. As for the vapors of flammable liquids, pyrolysis gases and biogas, when burned in gas burners, they give a not very clean flame with a temperature below 1100 degrees. Flammable liquids of medium and lower volatility (from gasoline to fuel oil) are burned in special liquid burners, for example, in burners for diesel fuel; alcohols - in low-power flame devices, and ethers do not burn at all - they are low-energy, but very dangerous.

How to achieve security

To make a gas burner safe to use and not wasting fuel, the golden rule should be taken: no scaling and no changes to the prototype drawings at all!

Here the matter is in the so-called. the Reynolds number Re, showing the relationship between the flow rate, density, viscosity of the current medium and the characteristic size of the area in which it moves, for example. diameter cross section pipes. According to Re, one can judge the presence of turbulence in the flow and its nature. If, for example, the pipe is not round and both of its characteristic dimensions are greater than some critical value, then vortices of the 2nd and higher orders will appear. Physically distinguished walls of the “pipe” may not exist, for example, in sea currents, but many of their “tricks” are explained precisely by the transition of Re through critical values.

Note: just in case, for reference - for gases, the value of the Reynolds number, at which the laminar flow turns into turbulent, is Re> 2000 (in the SI system).

Not all homemade gas burners are accurately calculated according to the laws of gas dynamics. But, if you arbitrarily change the dimensions of parts of a successful design, then the Re of fuel or sucked air can jump beyond the limits that it adhered to in the author's product, and the burner will become smoky and voracious at best, and quite possibly dangerous.

Injector diameter

The determining parameter for the quality of a gas burner is the cross-sectional diameter of its fuel injector (gas nozzle, nozzle, jet - synonyms). For propane-butane burners at a normal temperature (1000-1300 degrees), it can be approximately taken as follows:

• On thermal power up to 100 W - 0.15-0.2 mm.
• For a power of 100-300 W - 0.25-0.35 mm.
• For a power of 300-500 W - 0.35-0.45 mm.
• For a power of 500-1000 W - 0.45-0.6 mm.
• For a power of 1-3 kW - 0.6-0.7 mm.
• For a power of 3-7 kW - 0.7-0.9 mm.
• For a power of 7-10 kW - 0.9-1.1 mm.

In high-temperature burners, the injectors are made narrower, 0.06-0.15 mm. An excellent material for the injector is a piece of needle for a medical syringe or dropper; from them it is possible to pick up a nozzle on any of the specified diameters. Needles for inflating balls are worse, they are not heat resistant. They are used more like air ducts in supercharged micro-burners, see below. It is soldered into the clip (capsule) of the injector hard solder or glued with heat-resistant glue (cold welding).

Power

In no case should you make a gas burner with a power of more than 10 kW. Why? Let's say the efficiency of the burner is 95%; for an amateur design, this is very good indicator. If the burner power is 1 kW, then it will take 50 watts to self-heat the burner. About 50 W soldering iron can get burned, but it does not threaten an accident. But if you make a 20 kW burner, then 1 kW will be superfluous, this is an iron or electric stove already left unattended. The danger is aggravated by the fact that its manifestation, like the Reynolds numbers, is threshold - either just hot, or flashes, melts, explodes. Therefore, the drawings homemade burner more than 7-8 kW is better not to look for.

Note: industrial gas burners are produced with a capacity of up to many MW, but this is achieved by precise profiling of the gas barrel, which is impossible at home; see one example below.

fittings

The third factor determining the safety of the burner is the composition of its fittings and the manner in which it is used. AT general scheme is:

1. In no case should the burner be extinguished with a control valve, the fuel supply is stopped with a valve on the cylinder;
2. For burners with a power of up to 500-700 W and high-temperature ones (with a narrow injector that excludes the transition of Re gas flow beyond critical value), fed by propane or isobutane from a cylinder up to 5 liters at an outside temperature of up to 30 degrees, it is permissible to combine the control and shut-off valves in one - regular on the cylinder;
3. In burners with a power of more than 3 kW (with a wide injector), or powered by a cylinder of more than 5 liters, the probability of Re overshoot over 2000 is very high. Therefore, in such burners, between the shut-off and control valves, a gearbox is also required to maintain pressure in the supply gas pipeline within certain limits.

What to do?

Gas-burners low power for everyday life and small-scale private production, the following are classified according to performance indicators. way:

• High-temperature - for precision welding, jewelry and glass work. Efficiency is not important, it is necessary to achieve the maximum flame temperature for a given fuel.
• Technological - for metalwork and blacksmithing. The flame temperature is highly desirable not lower than 1200 degrees, and subject to this condition, the burner is brought to maximum efficiency.
• Heating and roofing - achieve the best efficiency. The flame temperature is usually up to 1100 degrees or lower.

Regarding the method of fuel combustion, a gas burner can be made according to one of the following. schemes:

1. Free-atmospheric.
2. Atmospheric ejection.
3. Supercharged.

atmospheric

In free-atmospheric burners, the gas burns in free space; air flow is provided by free convection. Such burners are uneconomical, the flame is red, smoky, dancing and beating. They are of interest, firstly, because by excess gas supply or insufficient air, any other burner can be transferred to a free-atmospheric mode. It is in it that the burners are set on fire - at a minimum of fuel supply and even less air flow. Secondly, the free flow of secondary air can be very useful in the so-called. one and a half circuit burners for heating, because greatly simplifies their design without sacrificing safety, see below.

ejection

In ejection burners, at least 40% of the air required for fuel combustion is sucked in by the gas flow from the injector. Ejection burners are structurally simple and allow you to get a flame with a temperature of up to 1500 degrees with an efficiency of over 95%, therefore they are used most widely, but cannot be made modulating, see below. According to the use of air, ejection burners are divided into:

• Single-circuit - all the necessary air is sucked in at once. With a properly profiled gas duct, over 10kW of power show an efficiency of over 99%. With your own hands are not repeatable.
• Dual circuit - approx. 50% of the air is sucked in by the injector, the rest goes into the combustion chamber and/or afterburner. They allow you to get either a flame of 1300-1500 degrees, or a CPL of over 95% and a flame of up to 1200 degrees. Used in any of the above ways. Structurally quite complex, but repeatable on their own.
• One and a half circuit, often also called double circuit - the primary air is sucked in by the flow from the injector, and the secondary freely enters a limited volume (for example, a furnace furnace), in which the fuel burns out. Only single-mode (see below), but structurally simple, therefore widely used for temporary launch heating stoves and gas boilers.

supercharged

In pressurized burners, all air, both primary and secondary, is forced into the combustion zone of the fuel. The simplest supercharged micro-burner for desktop soldering, jewelry and glass work can be made on your own (see below), but making a supercharged heating burner requires a solid manufacturing base. But it is the pressurized burners that make it possible to realize all the possibilities of controlling the combustion mode; According to the terms of use, they are divided into:

1. Single mode;
2. dual mode;
3. Modulated.

Combustion control

In single-mode burners, the fuel combustion mode is either determined once and for all constructively (for example, in industrial burners for annealing furnaces), or set manually, for which the burner must either be turned off or the technological cycle must be interrupted with its use. Two-stage burners usually operate at full or half power. The transition from mode to mode is carried out in the course of work or use. Heating burners (winter - spring / autumn) or roofing burners are made dual-mode.

In modulating burners, the supply of fuel and air is smoothly and continuously regulated by automation, which works out according to a set of critical initial parameters. For example, for a heating burner - according to the ratio of temperatures in the room, outdoor and coolant in the return. There can be only one output parameter (minimum gas flow rate, highest flame temperature) or there can also be several of them, for example, when the flame temperature is at the upper limit, fuel consumption is minimized, and when it falls, the temperature is optimized for this process.

Design examples

Understanding the designs of gas burners, let's take the path of increasing power, this will allow us to better understand the material. And from the very beginning we will get acquainted with such an important circumstance as boost.

Mini from a can

It is well known how a single-mode mini gas burner for desktop work powered by a lighter refilling cartridge works: these are 2 needles inserted into each other, pos. And in Fig.:

Supercharging - from an aquarium compressor. Since it gives a noticeably pulsating flow under water without the resistance of the atomizer, a receiver of 5 liters of baklag is needed. Soda is not available in these, so the receiver plug will need to be additionally sealed with raw rubber, silicone or just plasticine. If you take a compressor for an aquarium of 600 liters or more, and the fuel is 100% isobutane (such cartridges are more expensive than usual), you can get a flame of over 1500 degrees.

The stumbling blocks in the repetition of this design, firstly, the adjustment of the gas supply. There are no problems with air - its supply is set by a standard compressor regulator. But adjusting the gas by bending the hose is very rough, and the regulator from the dropper quickly fails, it is disposable with it. Secondly, pairing the burner with the cartridge - in order for its valve to open, you need to press on the filling fitting

The first, the node shown in pos. will help solve problems. B; make it from the same pair of needles. First you need to pick up a piece of the tube for the sleeve, with a little effort fitting onto the nozzle of the can, and then, also with a little effort, push it into the cannula of the needle; it may need to be drilled out a bit. But the sleeve should not hang out either on the fitting or in the cannula separately.

Then we make a clip for the can with an adjusting screw (pos. B), insert the can, put the regulator on the fitting according to pos. B, and turn the screw until the desired gas supply is obtained. The adjustment is very precise, literally microscopic.

Soldering torches

The easiest way to make a soldering torch is approx. by 0.5-1 kW, if you have any gas valve available: an oxygen valve of the VK series, from an old autogen (the acetylene barrel is muffled), etc. One of the design options soldering torch based gas valve shown in fig.

Its feature is the minimum number of turned parts, and even those can be picked up ready-made, and enough wide opportunities adjustment of the flame by moving the nozzle 11. The material of parts 7-12 is sufficiently heat-resistant steel; in this case, the relatively inexpensive St45 is suitable, because. the flame temperature due to the complete absence of profiling of the gas channel and ejector windows (which do not exist as such) will not exceed 800-900 degrees. Also, due to the fact that this burner is single-circuit, it is rather voracious.

Dual circuit

A double-circuit gas burner for soldering is much more economical and allows you to get a flame up to 1200-1300 degrees. Examples of structures of this kind with power supply from a 5 l cylinder are given in Fig.

Burner on the left - for a power of approx. 1 kW, therefore, it consists of only 3 parts, not counting the gas barrel and handle, so a separate valve for adjusting the flame is not required. If desired, you can make interchangeable injector capsules for lower power; fuel consumption at low power will drop quite noticeably. The simplicity of the design in this case was achieved due to the use of a scheme with incomplete separation of the air circuits: all the air is sucked in through the holes in the housing, but part of it is carried away by the burning gas jet through a hole with a diameter of 12 mm into the afterburner.

Incomplete separation of the air circuits does not allow reaching a power of more than 1.2-1.3 kW: Re in the combustion chamber jumps “above the roof”, which causes combustion with pops up to an explosion, if you try to adjust the flame by giving gas. Therefore, without experience, it is better to put the injector into this burner 0.3-0.4 mm.

The burner with complete separation of air circuits, the drawings of which are given on the right in the figure, develops power up to several kW. Therefore, in its fittings, in addition to the shut-off valve on the cylinder, a control valve is also required. Together with the sliding primary ejector, it makes it possible to regulate the flame temperature within a fairly wide range, maintaining its minimum flow rate at a given power. In practice, having set the flame of the desired strength with a valve, the primary ejector is moved until a narrow blue jet (very hot) or a wide yellowish jet (not so hot) goes on.

For the forge and forge

Double-circuit torch with full separation of circuits, also suitable for blacksmithing. For example, how to build a horn from improvised materials for the one just described in 10-15 minutes, see the video:

Video: gas horn in 10 minutes

A metalwork-forge gas burner specifically for a forge can also be built according to a complete two-circuit scheme, see next. video clip.

Video: do-it-yourself gas burner for a forge

And finally, a mini gas burner can also heat a small tabletop horn; how to make them together yourself, see:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-horn at home

For fine work

Here in fig. drawings of a gas burner with a built-in control valve for particularly precise and demanding work are given. Its feature is a massive combustion chamber with cooling fins. Due to this, firstly, thermal deformations of the burner parts are reduced. Secondly, random jumps in the supply of gas and air practically do not affect the temperature in the combustion chamber. As a result, the set flame long time stays very stable.

high temperature

Finally, consider a burner designed to produce a flame of the highest possible temperature - on 100% isobutane naturally aspirated, this burner gives a flame with a temperature of more than 1500 degrees - it cuts sheet steel, melts any jewelry alloys in a mini crucible and softens any silicate glass, except quartz. A good injector for this burner is obtained from a needle from an insulin syringe.

Heating

If you are planning to switch your old stove or boiler from wood-coal to gas once and for all, then you have no other choice but to purchase a modulating supercharged burner, pos. 1 in fig. Otherwise, any savings on homemade products will soon be eaten up by excessive fuel consumption.

In the case when heating requires a power of more than 12-15 kW and, in addition, there is a person who is ready and able to take on the duties of a stoker who regulates the gas supply according to the outside temperature, a double-circuit atmospheric burner for a boiler will be a cheaper option, the device diagram of which is given in pos. . 2. The so-called. Saratov burners, pos. 3; they are produced for a wide range of capacities, and have been successfully used in heat engineering for a long time.

If you need to stay on gas for a while, for example, until the end heating season, and then start a reconstruction of the heating system, or run on gas, for example, a country or bath stove, then for this a one and a half-loop gas burner for the stove can be made with your own hands. The scheme of its structure and operation is given in pos. 4. An indispensable condition - the furnace of the heater must be with a blower: if secondary air is allowed into the gap between the throat of the furnace and the burner body, fuel consumption will increase significantly. A drawing of a one and a half circuit gas burner for a furnace with a power of up to 10-12 kW is given in pos. five; oblong openings for primary air intake must be outside!

Roofing

A gas burner for roofing with modern built-up materials (roofing lamp) must be dual-mode: the underlying surface is heated at half power, and the coating is deposited at full power after the roll is unrolled. Delay is unacceptable here, so it is impossible to waste time on readjusting the burner (which is possible only after it has cooled down).

The device of a roofing gas burner of industrial production is shown on the left in fig. It is double-circuit according to the scheme with incomplete separation of circuits. In this case, such a solution is acceptable, because The burner runs at full power for approx. 20% of the process cycle time and is operated by trained personnel outdoors.

The most complex roof lamp assembly, which is unlikely to be repeated at home, is the power switching valve. However, it is possible to do without it at the cost of a slight increase in fuel consumption. If you are a master wagon and roofing works If you do it occasionally, then the decrease in profitability due to this will not be noticeable.

Technically this decision can be implemented in a burner with coupled air circuit pairs, see right in fig. The transition from mode to mode is carried out either by installing / removing the body of internal circuits, or simply by moving the lamp in height, because the operating mode of such a burner is highly dependent on the backpressure at the exhaust. To warm the underlying surface, the lamp is taken away from it, then a powerful wide stream of not excessively hot gases will come out of the nozzle. And for surfacing, the lamp is brought closer: roofing material a wide "pancake" of flame will spread.

Finally

In this article, only selected examples of gas burners are considered. The total number of their designs only for the "home" power range up to 15-20 kW is in the hundreds, if not thousands. But let's hope that some of the ones described here will come in handy for you.

What is a gas burner? Many people are interested in the exact answer to this question. In short, this is a homemade propane device that has a huge number of advantages over its counterparts. In this article, we will try to understand exactly everything related to a home-made gas burner, and also answer the question “How to make a gas burner with your own hands?”

First, I would like to point out Key Features of this design. These include:

• extremely easy to use;
• no unpleasant and harmful odors, traces of soot and the like;
• compactness that allows you to use a gas burner almost anywhere.

The homemade gas burner device includes:

• metal case;
• reducer;
• nozzle;
• fuel supply regulator;
• head;
• knot for fixing the gas cylinder.

The metal case includes a special glass with which the mechanism gets rid of the possibility of blowing out the flame. It also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters. A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. With the help of a reducer and a tube with a valve, the level of gas supply is regulated, as well as its length, respectively. The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in this case the last one is propane.

Type of fuel used by the burner

As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, it is propane or a mixture of propane and butane that is used as fuel.

With this fuel filling a special bottle which is attached to the burner.

Do-it-yourself gas burner production

As you could understand from the list of elements of the entire fixture design, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex details that you need to spend a lot of time on.

In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since work is being done with flammable substances), then it will certainly be completed.

As practice and many live examples show, on average, a person who has never created home-made gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, was already able to boast of a do-it-yourself burner.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands

Here we come to the most interesting process. To the manufacture of the burner. The whole process of creating this unit will be described in detail below, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. Since the manufacture of the burner handle. In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to just use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The inlet tube is made entirely of steel.

Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all the details. For example, the diameter of the burner inlet tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should fluctuate around 2 - 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for this purpose.

Frame

The body of the burner, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

Next, several holes are made in order to create oxygen circulation in the unit. After all, as everyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. In the total number of such holes there should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

The next step is to forcefully press the divider, with which work was carried out a little earlier, into the body of the gas fixture. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap, in the future, a huge flow of gas suitable for the igniter will be inhibited.

Nozzle

As mentioned earlier, with the help of a nozzle, fuel is supplied, namely, propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it, use special metal rod. Here you will need a 2 mm drill in order to do blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper, we need a 4 mm drill. The holes made are hammered, and then they are undermined with the help of everyone's favorite sandpaper.

After that, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of a special rubber and fabric material. Fastening takes place with a conventional clamp using an ordinary screwdriver.

After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly fixed, it is necessary to set optimal tank pressure and apply gas from it. The air from the hose must then be completely expelled. The length of the fire at correct location and the work of all parts should be about 40-50 mm.

In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is a rather unique tool that will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its production can only attract all priorities to itself even more strongly.

Main component gas boiler- burner. Other elements are arranged around it.

You can create such a burner yourself, you just need to take into account such nuances as types of gas burners, for example.

Before classifying gas burners for boilers, you should decide what is happening inside, and these are:

• the passage of combustible material through the burner (in our case, gas),
• adding air to the fuel.

The design of the device must maintain the stability of the combustion of the gas-air composition.

According to the method of supplying air to the gas stream, there are several types of burners:

1. atmospheric;
2. with fans;
3. diffuse-kinetic.

Also, a homemade gas burner differs in the number of steps:

1. One step. First of all, this is the operation of the device with a stable power: the temperature indicators of the air in the premises or the heat carrier are maintained at a certain level. This is the merit of lighting up or turning off the burner at the required time. In this case, jumps in temperature are noted within a certain spectrum. It is worth noting the rather modest operational life of such a burner.
2. Two steps. The operation of the device is two-mode. With a low load on the heating network, a half mode operates, ensuring stable operation of the boiler and less equipment wear. The nominal mode is activated at high loads. The power of the device can be controlled gradually from zero to nominal. That's why gas equipment can work continuously and optimal mode for many years.

Concerning characteristic features a good burner, then this: the efficiency of the device, nitrogen oxide and carbon monoxide enter the air;

• decent operational life of the device;
• simplicity of design;
• ease of installation;
• noise within sanitary standards;
• quick reconfiguration from one type of fuel to another. This criterion applies to combined versions.

Atmospheric gas burners

They suck in air like a jet pump. That is, the gas flows through the ejector, where, due to the high dynamics, its pressure decreases. Air is introduced into the gas stream due to pressure surges.

Advantages of varieties:

1. simple design;
2. compact dimensions;
3. energy independence;
4. low noises;
5. attractive prices.

With such a burner, a solid fuel boiler can be converted to work on gas. To do this, you need to mount the burner in the ash pan section.

Impressive volumes of air cannot be introduced into the gas flow by jet action. For this reason, atmospheric versions in boilers are not very powerful. Their limit is 9 kW (average value).

Fan gas burners

In them, a fan is responsible for pumping air. Air is introduced in the required volumes. Oxygen is forced. That's why:

1. There are no power limits. Thanks to the fan, various volumes of gas fuel can be supplied necessary quantity air to ensure complete combustion.
2. The combustion section (gas) can be isolated from the boiler room. Air enters it from the outside - through a special air duct. This reduces the threat of penetration into the house of gases from smoke.

In analogues of the atmospheric type, a closed department is impossible. Reason: natural cravings can't handle air resistance in the air duct and provide the burner with the required air volumes.

A boiler with a closed gas chamber can operate without installing a separate air duct. This is due to the use of chimneys coaxial type. In them, to eliminate flue gases, it is arranged inner tube. There is a cylindrical tunnel for new air to enter. It is arranged between the outer and inner pipe.

Versions with forced air injection can be self-adjusted. They require minimal user interaction.

Cons of fan gas burners:

1. high prices;
2. powerful noise during operation;
3. dependence on electricity - they need sources of stable power.

Diffusion-kinetic burners

Usually they are present in powerful industrial heating units. They combine the basics of the previous two types of burners.

The process of self-creation of the burner

Homemade version of the burner under gas boilers, operating on solid fuel, can be made on the basis of a valve from a gas cylinder, more precisely an oxygen one. It is necessary to introduce a home-made fitting into its outlet pipe. It can then be attached to the gearbox. The connecting element is a rubber-fabric hose with self-manufacturing.

The inlet pipe enters the cylinder itself during the manufacturing process. You need to put a cap on it. A hole is made in the cap for attaching a jet, which is taken from gas stove or blowtorch.

By welding, a nozzle is attached to a homemade cap. The nozzle is a steel pipe element. Its length is 10 cm. The density of the walls is 2 mm.

The cap and the nozzle are separated by a certain space - 1.5 cm. Air is taken in through it. For this reason, three thick wire elements are first attached to the cap in the same way. And a pipe-nozzle is mounted to them.

Ignition methods for this homemade product are:
opening the tap on the main gas network, or on a cylinder (it is needed when a liquefied gas format is used).

The nozzle holds a source of fire: a match, a lighter or a lit paper wick. Production is not difficult, at first glance.

valve opening

The power of such a device can be controlled by closing or slightly opening the valve. The greatest temperature is concentrated in the green-blue part of the fire. To adjust the nozzle, you need to put a torch in its middle. To do this, the wire holders are slightly bent.

To create a working version of the burner, a tip is welded to its nozzle. The angle of its curvature is 45⸰.

A steel valve (also from a cylinder) may also be the basis for manufacturing. A plug with a hole for the jet is strung on its outgoing segment. It is taken from a blowtorch. Its nozzle diameter is 0.8 mm. The required diameter of the burner nozzle is 3 cm. The length of the nozzle can be varied with nozzles. This is how the parameters of the torch are controlled. The regulator here is the valve.

Maintenance nuances

Maintenance of gas burners of any home-made version is implied only in its cleaning. This process should be annual. Doing it yourself is not recommended. After all, you have to disassemble and reassemble the boiler. Typically, service is requested from service centres. Accumulated contaminants are eliminated by air purge. The air is compressed here.

Adjust the pressure to the burners carefully. For example, for some current versions of burners, parameters of 8-10 atm can be detrimental.

The need to clean the burner can be reduced by several times if a filter is placed on the gas supply pipe. This work is performed by a gas service employee, where you should apply with a special application.

Results

Do-it-yourself gas burner for a boiler is assembled, but not quickly, and not everyone can reliably assemble this important element heating system. It is more profitable in terms of safety to choose a branded burner.