Application of manure as fertilizer. How to use cow dung as fertilizer

Leaf humus is most often used to fertilize crops. But you can make this nutritious fertilizer not only from leaves. It is also important to store it correctly so that it does not get lost. nutrients.

Humus - what is it? Inexperienced summer residents often ask such questions. Fertilizer of organic origin is called humus. With its help, you can saturate the poor soil with all trace elements necessary for the growth and development of plants. Humus is easy to do with your own hands. All the ingredients necessary for this can be found in any subsidiary farm.

What does it consist of?

Before preparing humus at home, you need to find out what is in it. The composition of humus, as a rule, includes the following components:

Leaves.
Cattle manure.
Bird droppings.
Straw.
Hay.
Weeds from the site.
Ash.
Remains of fruits and vegetables.
Bark.
Wood sawdust.
Special additives to accelerate plant growth.
Branches of trees and bushes.

We can say that all parts of plants that grew on the site, as well as cattle manure, can enter the composition of humus. This is especially convenient for those summer residents who are also engaged in agriculture.

How to do it yourself?

Grass and leaves are the basis for fertilization. But that alone will not be enough. Also, you can not do without poultry droppings and cattle manure. Otherwise, instead of nutrient fertilization, you can get silage or rotten grass, which does not bring any benefit to the plants.

What cannot be used for processing into humus:

Chemical agent.
Infected plant parts.
Food of animal origin.
Weed seeds.

If cattle manure is used, then the animals must be healthy. Not all waste that is intended for disposal can be used to make humus at home.

How do you get humus?

In order to get high-quality home-cooked humus, you need to know exactly in what sequence to arrange the layers.

Plants. The first layer is plant remains. It should be no more than 15 cm. If this layer turns out to be larger, then the decay process will be slower. All parts can be used from grass except seeds. Otherwise, they may germinate and then you will have to fight the weeds. The first layer of grass should be sprinkled with earth mixed with lime.
Straw and hay. Thanks to the straw, the deciduous and all other layers are saturated with oxygen. The straw creates a porous structure and binds moisture in the humus. Before spreading hay or straw, it must be thoroughly chopped. Mulching with humus with the addition of hay to provide oxygen access to the plant roots.
Leaves. The leaves need to be dried before making your own humus. If this is not done, then they will go into lumps. Mix leaves with others plant residues and spread in a thin layer.
Sawdust. To cook humus in the country, you can use sawdust... But they do not decompose well, so they are mixed with grass and bone meal before laying.
Tree bark. V tree bark contains a large amount of nitrogen. But in order to increase its concentration in the compost, it is necessary to mix the bark with chicken droppings, cattle manure or urea.

How to make humus?

At home, you can get humus from the following components:

Food waste. Cooking humus is not complete without food waste. They contain many nutrients. But to prevent their decomposition, the waste is mixed with a solid material to provide oxygen.
Manure and droppings. Manure produces the most nutritious humus for plants. It contains a large amount of nitrogen, which helps to accelerate the growth of crops. It is advisable to sprinkle it on top with soil.
Paper. Before laying the paper when preparing manure with your own hands, it must be coarsely cut and moistened in a decoction of herbs. An herbal decoction can be made with nettle. There are a lot of nutrients in nettles, and the paper absorbs them in the process of soaking. Mix wet paper with another hard material. Otherwise, it will crumple.

How to prepare humus from manure?

Many summer residents are interested in the question of humus and where to get it. You can cook it at home with your own hands. The most common type of humus is based on cattle manure. Dung from sheep, cows, or horses will do.

We prepare humus as follows:

Manure for humus must be taken fresh. It contains more nutrients.
Punch up a box and put coarsely chopped grass on the bottom. Then you can lay out the straw. So the humus will be saturated with oxygen.
Then lay out the manure (you can use chicken droppings).
In order to accelerate the decomposition, biodegradants can be added to the humus. It can be Baikal-M or Shining. They contain bacteria that accelerate the decay process.
Humus should be watered regularly (but not poured). It is important not to let it dry out.

You can use humus when it will not be possible to consider individual parts. The mixture should be uniform in consistency. The smell of finished humus should be like wet soil. And the color is brown or closer to black.

How to quickly make humus from leaves?

Leaf humus is also prepared with the addition of manure. You can use straw, paper and other plant debris.

Leaf humus is prepared like this:

You can use any leaflets deciduous trees... If shrubs grow on the site or fruit trees then fallen leaves are used.
Since the leaves are poor in micronutrients, they must be mixed with food waste or sawdust.
Put bird droppings on a layer of foliage.
Humus should be watered periodically. If a large number of midges appear above the box with humus, then this is a clear sign of high humidity. In order to get rid of them on a sunny day, the humus must be left open. When it dries a little, cover it back.
If the humus does not change color and does not acquire the smell of moist earth, then it is overdried. You can remedy the situation by adding water, potato peel or fresh grass.

They mulch plants for the winter so that the roots do not freeze and the bushes do not die. Fertilizers made in this way can be stored in bags.

Where to store it?

How to properly store the humus prepared by your own hands so that it does not lose beneficial features? The optimal way storage is a drawer. How to make a humus box?

Humus storage box:

You can put together such a box from any unnecessary boards. At the bottom, you can pour sawdust or leave the box without a bottom, and immediately put humus into it.
On top of the container, you can lay slate or greenhouse film. Moisture that gets on humus along with rain should not accumulate in one place, but should drain into the ground.
Also, do not forget that one of the walls of the box must be pulled out. This will make it easier to pick up the humus for application to the soil.
Humus can also be stored in bags, but you just need to make sure that the sun's rays do not fall on it.

How to store?

What are the features of humus storage? First of all, the container with humus should not be located in open sunlight. So the fertilizer will begin to decompose and pathogenic microbes will begin to multiply in it.

It is important to maintain a constant temperature and humidity in the drawer. The earth and humus itself should not be too wet, but also should not dry out.

It is not advisable to place fertilizer containers next to trees. Very soon, trees can direct their growth towards the composts. And then all the nutrients will be spent on their growth.

Sawdust, like other waste from sawing wood, is a good material for making fertilizers and compost.

However, mistakes in the process, which are made unknowingly, as well as incorrect use of the finished fertilizer, can not only harm the landings, but change soil characteristics, making it unsuitable for certain plants.

why does the earth need fertilizers;
how sawdust is composted;
how to make compost from wood waste and droppings or manure;
how to determine the readiness of humus;
what kind of sawdust is better for getting humus;

During the growth of plants, their roots pull nutrients out of the earth and various minerals in the form of aqueous solutions.

These substances are concentrated in the upper (fertile) layer, consisting of:

clay;
sand;
humus (humus).

During irrigation, the water soaks upper layer soil and, mixing with these substances, forms water solution... The more intensive the growth of the roots and other parts of the plant, the the stronger it draws water from the ground and an aqueous solution of nutrients and minerals.

Gradually, the concentration of nutrients and substances necessary for growth in the soil decreases and the plant no longer receives them to the proper extent. Because of this:

the growth rate decreases;
immunity decreases and vulnerability to diseases and pests increases;
the number of fruits decreases and their quality decreases.

In nature, consumption by plants nutrients compensated the formation of humus from various organic matter:

dead roots, leaves and branches;
excrement of birds and animals;
corpses of various living beings.

In orchards and vegetable gardens, this method of renewing the fertile qualities of the land is inapplicable, therefore, in the ground need to make special formulations , which contain nutrients and substances necessary for the development of plants.

By saturating the topsoil, they increase its fertility supplying plant roots with the necessary nutrition and building material.

Humus production

The transformation of sawdust into humus is natural result of the work of various bacteria, which break down cellulose into simple organic substances, and also perform many other actions.

Therefore, the speed of obtaining humus, as well as its quality, directly depend on the conditions created for these bacteria.

In addition, very composition is important source material - processing of only one wood waste allows bacteria to make a good nutrient from them, but does not supply the soil with substances and microelements necessary for plant growth.

The process of producing fertilizer from sawdust begins under the following conditions:

positive temperature and sufficient humidity;
oxygen availability;
the presence of a minimum number of bacteria.

For the vital functions of bifidobacteria, which break down cellulose into glucose and other substances, nitrogen is required which they absorb from the air and earth. The nitrogen contained in the air is insufficient for the active activity of bacteria, therefore their activity is low.

You can increase it by adding:

urea;
land;
droppings or manure.

During the activity of bacteria, a lot of carbon dioxide, therefore the process of converting compost into humus should only take place outdoors.

In addition, the bacteria that convert sawdust into humus generate a lot of heat, so the process does not stop even at subzero temperatures.

However, when the temperature drops, the bacteria living in the outer layer of the compost heap slow down their speed, so the decay process is less uniform.

But the high temperature inside the heap allows bacteria to transform material in the outer layers of the heap as well.

In addition to recycled cellulose and other organic matter, the compost must also contain inorganic substances, primarily calcium and phosphorus.

Therefore, to obtain a high-quality balanced humus, it is necessary to add slaked lime and other minerals to the compost.

In the process of the vital activity of bacteria, they mix as much as possible with humus and form compounds that are optimal for plant nutrition.

How to make rotted sawdust quickly?

For composting you need free space, separated from the vegetable garden by a "sanitary zone" measuring 5–7 meters.

Despite the fact that you can simply dump all the materials in a heap and leave to rot, many gardeners and gardeners prefer neat boxes, which prevent the compost from spilling out.

How to compost?

As such a box can be used ditches, platforms and any containers.

Placing compost in pits and ditches is most effective when various plants are planted over them.

In this case, the high temperature created by the bacteria will allow the seedlings or seeds to be planted 3-6 weeks earlier, thereby the harvest will be earlier. In addition, a little heating of the soil will have a beneficial effect on the development of the root system.

Depending on the type of wood, natural decay under such conditions is 1-3 years, and the temperature rise in the compost is 1-5 degrees.

Adding droppings or manure to sawdust reduces decay time up to 6-10 months, and the addition of drugs that accelerate the reproduction of bifidobacteria, reduces the period to 3-5 months.

At the same time, the temperature of the compost rises to the level of 40-60 degrees, even when the air temperature drops to zero or a little frost.

In more detail about this method of obtaining humus, as well as compensation for the negative impact on the soil, you can read in the article about.

To obtain humus from compost any suitable container can be used from materials resistant to bifidobacteria and light acids. The easiest way is to use plastic containers of a suitable size.

If you only have metal barrel or box, then it can be covered with roofing material, but it will negatively affect bacteria in the outer layer.

Good for making compost bin suitable wood. Although it does not last long (5–15 years), it does not violate the microclimate in the compost heap.

A wooden box can be made either from planks or bars, or from old doors.

Sometimes the drawer is even made from disassembled cabinets ( chipboard plates), but the phenols contained in them negatively affect the microflora of the outer layers of the heap.

In such boxes, the decay process does not stop, but it becomes a little more uneven.

Subject to the terms of decay, the humus from it is in no way inferior to any other, therefore the only drawback- it is necessary to wait 1–2 weeks longer.

The shape of the compost box can be any, but it is important to remember that the higher the height of the heap in it, the stronger the pressure on the walls.

It is easier to make a box larger in length and width by using thin bars and boards, than to fence a powerful structure that can withstand the pressure of a large heap.

After all, the task of such a box is prevent content spillage over the surrounding area.

It is not necessary to make the walls of the box completely closed; it is quite permissible to make them in the form of a lattice with a cell height of 3–10 cm (depending on the composition of the compost - for sawdust no more than 3 cm, for a mixture of sawdust and excrement up to 10 cm). The length of the cells can be any.

If there is no box, or you don't want to do it, then you can put the compost right on the ground.

At the same time, you must understand that the area under the heap will receive too much nutrients and minerals, and the soil on it will acidify.

Therefore, even next year it is undesirable to plant anything there.

After complete decomposition of the compost, such an area should be sprinkled with ash and slaked lime, or dolomite flour, then plowed so that the earth can absorb the nutrients, and after a year it can be used for planting.

Therefore, the area for the compost heap you need to choose very carefully- if possible not far from the planting site and so as not to damage the plants.

Indeed, even at a distance of 2-3 meters from the edge of the heap, the concentration of acids, nutrients and minerals will be dangerous for plants.

Methods for obtaining humus

Exists 8 composition combinations to obtain humus from wood waste, which differ both in the components used and in the final result:

clean sawdust;
processed with urea;
a mixture of any parts of plants;
with kitchen waste;
with manure / compost;
with the addition of the contents of cesspools;
from wood waste, manure / compost and mineral additives;
with the use of drugs that accelerate the reproduction of bifidobacteria.

The first way simplest, but also the longest.

Wood waste is heaped and poured with water to increase its moisture content.

Sometimes the waste is soaked for 1–2 hours before heaping, but this is justified only for small volumes.

The decay time of such a heap depends on:

wood species;
air temperature;
composition of the earth beneath it.

Soft deciduous species rot in 10-15 months, and conifers in 2-3 years. At intervals of 2 weeks, it is necessary check the moisture and temperature of the heap thrusting his hand into it.

If the pile is dry or cold, then it needs to be watered. If it is wet to the touch, then there is too much water in it, so the pile needs to be stirred up to dry out, then raked again.

Urea treatment can be used to speed up the process of converting compost from wood waste into humus.

For this, urea is dissolved in water and this solution is poured over a bunch... The urea solution fills the wood with nitrogen, which is necessary for bacteria to function normally, so the rate of their reproduction, as well as the efficiency of their work, increase markedly.

Both types of humus, obtained from sawdust alone, contain only good nutrients, therefore, together with them you need to add trace elements... Otherwise, they will be effective only as a top dressing on non-depleted soils.

In addition to sawing wood waste, you can compost any part of the plant. For example, in the fall you collect leaves and rake, then form a pile by stacking sawdust and leaves in layers.

If you pruned trees, then pruned branches grind with special equipment, which we talked about in this one.

Twigs and branches big size will rot for decades, and bacteria will process the crushed wood as quickly as sawdust.

Remember, diseased or pest-infested leaves and branches should not be allowed into the compost. Such waste is needed pile up and then burn.

After all, bacteria that process wood cannot kill pathogens or pests, so humus from contaminated materials will pose a threat to your plantings.

In addition to waste from the garden or vegetable garden, you can use to obtain humus and any kitchen leftovers with the exception of meat.

They can be both fresh and sour or covered with mold, the only condition is that all waste must be crushed. , otherwise, the decay process will take several years.

A mixture of sawdust and dung or manure is obtained in barns, pigsties and other places where animals are kept. The most popular is a mixture of sawdust with chicken droppings or manure.

The excrement of animals and birds not only fills the compost with nitrogen, but also are a source of many trace elements necessary for the normal growth of plants.

Such compost decays in 8-12 months.

If you add to it drugs that accelerate the reproduction of bifidobacteria, then the humus will be ready in 4-6 months.

In addition, such humus is the most balanced and suitable for use on any soil for any plant.

Together with droppings or manure, the contents of cesspools and street toilets can be poured into the compost heap.

The only condition is in them home sewage should not come out, after all, water containing shampoos and washing powders is poured into it, and such chemistry negatively affects both the soil and the planting.

To create the correct heap, first a layer of sawdust 10 cm thick is laid, then watered with the contents of the cesspools (1 bucket for 2-10 m 2) and a new layer of sawdust is laid.

The height of the heap is chosen based on convenience and overall volume.

Rotation completion is indicated by:

completely absent smell of excrement;
loose structure, similar to loosened sandy soil;
lowering the temperature to the street temperature both outside and inside the heap.

If on your site acidic soil, and plants like less acidic or alkaline soil, then stacking a compost pile, sprinkle with slaked lime or dolomite flour... Ready humus can also be applied during spring plowing, but this method is less effective, because the soil will not have time to be saturated with humus and the plants will not receive balanced nutrition.

You can also use the compositions that did not have time to re-mix.

If they are treated with agents that accelerate the growth of bacteria, then such compost can be applied after harvesting green manure, during the autumn plowing.

During the winter, sawdust and other components will completely rot and mix with the soil.

Therefore, in the spring, the plants will receive the most balanced nutrition.

Fresh compost is added to the soil only in three cases:

its composition ensures rapid decay and is treated with preparations that accelerate the growth of bacteria;
the field is left fallow;
compost is used for heating planting material in pits and grooves.

In all other cases, fresh compost will reduce the productivity of plants and can make the land unusable.

In, where the soil around the trees is not dug up or dug up very rarely, ready-made humus laid out around the trunk and watered abundantly.

Nutrients and microelements from humus, together with water, penetrate into the soil and saturate it, thanks to which the tree grows faster and bears better fruit.

The same method is used for fertilizing fields planted with currants, raspberries and other bushes.

Output

Wood sawdust - good material to obtain humus. After reading the article, you learned:

what kind of sawdust is better for obtaining humus;
how long does the decay process take;
how this process is influenced by chicken manure and excrement of other birds and animals;
how you can quickly get good humus;
how to use humus correctly.

In contact with

Cow dung(obtained from chewed and digested food) is an essential organic fertilizer. This is one of the most affordable and effective means to increase soil fertility on the site (along with). Cow dung for fertilization contains all the necessary nutrients for plants, shrubs and trees.

General information about cow dung

Its advantages:

The disadvantages include the presence of pathogenic bacteria during improper storage (which die during its preparation) and the presence of a specific smell.

The quality of manure directly depends on how much it was stored. The more the straw is decomposed in its composition, the more nutrients it contains.

It happens:

fresh manure;
slightly decomposed - when the straw is practically in its original form;
half-ripe - the straw turns brown, breaks easily;
completely rotted - a mass of black color, no straw is visible;
humus is a loose earthy mass.

What is the name of cow dung for fertilization depends on how it is presented.

Fresh manure

Cannot be applied to the soil just before planting. The only exceptions are.

There are several ways to use it:

Embedding in the soil in the fall, before digging (calculated at 3 kg per 1 square meter). It should be borne in mind that all the weed seeds available inside will germinate in the spring.
Creation compost heap... Manure acts as the basis for the compost to be laid; mowed grass, leaves, straw, food waste are added to it. After decaying, it turns out good organic fertilizer.
Cooking mullein (the method for its preparation is described below).

Liquid form of manure, rich in potassium and nitrogen. As a fertilizer, apply only diluted: 1 to 10. If the soil is too dry, the concentration must be reduced.

Humus

The best spring feeding for many cultures. It is possible to apply before the spring digging of the site or directly into the holes for planting seedlings. A good result is given by using this organic material for mulching.

Instructions: how to make fertilizer from cow dung

The recipe is quite simple and consists of the following points:

In a deep container, pour the manure with water, observing the proportions of 1: 5.
Stir well, cover. Insist up to 2 weeks.
The mixture must be thoroughly mixed once every 3-4 days.

If bubbles appear on the surface, then everything is done correctly.

After the 14-day period, the solution should become lighter.
Before using as a fertilizer, the mullein must be diluted with water, approximately 1 to 2.
To increase the nutritional value, ash (0.5 kg) and superphosphate (0.1 kg) can be added to the bucket of the resulting mixture.

The chemical composition of the mullein depends mainly on the food that the cow ate. But in any case, the nutrients of such fertilizer are almost completely absorbed by the plants of the garden and vegetable garden.

Before feeding the beds, it is advisable to water a little, and only then add the prepared solution. Moreover, pouring it at the root is not recommended, for these purposes it is better to dig grooves between plantings.

You can also use mullein for spraying. To do this, it is bred in a ratio of 1:20.

After processing, the plants are less affected by pests and diseases, they become stronger, and give a high-quality harvest.

Usage rates for different crops

Deciding how to use cow dung as fertilizer should be based on the needs of the plants:

the bulk of root crops (, turnip,);
legumes (, beans);

These groups do not need large quantities nitrogen. Such feeding can even harm them.

most vegetables (, cucumbers,
Cow dung is an excellent organic fertilizer available to every gardener or gardener. But the greatest effect is observed when it is used together with other types of dressings.

Video: properties of cow dung

Briefly and to the point about the benefits of cow dung is explained in this video:

Manure. A magical substance that allows you to get extraordinary harvests. Precious for today's times, and unattainable for many for this reason. But let's imagine a situation: you suddenly became the happy owner of a huge, freshest heap. What will you do? Drag to the beds. And this is wrong. There will be no good from such actions. How to use cow dung as fertilizer? So that the benefits are and the result is quick. Let's figure it out.

We prepare competent fertilizer

The fact is that in the case of fresh cow dung, it will not work quickly. It contains too many nitrates, and the level of urea in it is off scale. All your plants will receive a massive root burn. Well, what will be the harvest?

There is an exit. True, you will have to endure and for a long time, at least a year. In order for cow dung to become fertilizer, it must be piled or high. There is no need to cover the structure. But it is advisable to pour water thoroughly with water. In this form, the bunch is forgotten for at least 5-7 months. During this time, cow dung will begin to actively decompose, releasing nitrogen.

Secret. In order for the decomposition process to continue, and the nitrogen does not evaporate too quickly, it is necessary to pour the cow dung in the heap with any phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

After six months, manure in such a structure will rot enough to be used as fertilizer in the beds.

But nevertheless, particles of grass, straw, grain can still remain in it. You shouldn't be intimidated by this. After about a gardening season, not even the slightest trace will remain of them. If you are still unpleasantly worried about the presence of foreign particles in cow dung, then you will have to wait another six months. The bacteria will decompose organic residues into excellent humus.

Advice. To speed up the ripening process of manure, if possible, pour milk whey, yogurt or old kefir inside the heap. Just don't look for or buy these liquids in barrels. For a medium-sized heap, only 2 liters are enough.

Harmless fertilizer

It also happens: people are afraid of worms and pathogenic bacteria. Manure from such owners lies in a heap for 4 years or more. Say, the longer, the safer. This is a deep misconception. Worm eggs and pathogenic microbes die in cow dung from high temperatures, and not from time. Even if the manure lay in a pile for 10 years, this is not at all a guarantee of its safety.

What to do? Increase the temperature inside the heap. This is the only way to be sure that all weed seeds, worm eggs and pathogenic bacteria have died. In order to start heating the cow dung, it is not enough to pour water on it and put it in a box. It is necessary to add any biofuel in the calculation of at least 25% of the total mass. That is, if you have a ton of cow dung at your disposal, you will have to add at least 250 kg of "catalyst". This role is often played by:

food waste
paper
succulent grass
straw (hay)
natural fabrics (cotton rags)
old sawdust or shavings
small branches

All these materials are crushed, if possible, and then mixed with manure. If such a procedure is problematic (anything can happen), then you can simply lay out the components in layers, according to the principle of a pie.

Advice. Be sure to thoroughly spill each layer with water. Exactly high humidity helps to activate microorganisms that convert organic residues into fertilizer.

Ideally, the proportion of cow dung and "catalyst" should be 50 to 50. But in reality, this can be difficult to do. But if you manage to carry out such an operation, then in the end, after about 8-10 months, you will receive an excellent fertilizer from cow dung. Moreover, it will be absolutely safe in terms of hygiene. Of course, this does not mean that you can eat it with spoons. It will be possible to bring it under all crops without fear. By the way, root vegetables do not really like such a treat. But aboveground plants - with great pleasure.

Secret. Completely rotted cow dung is a substance like greasy earth or compost. By the way, the content of nutrients and nutrients in it is about half lower than in semi-rotten. But this does not detract from its value as a rich fertilizer at all.

Urgent need!

What to do for those lucky owners of cow dung who do not have the opportunity to compost it? Well, you never know, "help" to use or the land on the site has already become too scarce. Such owners will have to knead the mullein. This is a liquid solution that is ready for use after 3-7 days. It just depends on the ambient temperature.

How to prepare liquid fertilizer from cow dung, procedure:

Take a barrel of any volume. Better plastic, wooden, but not metal.
Fill in a quarter with fresh cow dung.
A quarter of any freshly plucked grass. Even normal weeding will do.
Add some yeast and old jam.
Poured clean warm water, not reaching the edges of the container, about 20-25 cm.

Now it must be mixed with a wooden stick, covered with a lid and forgotten for 3 days. Or a little more if it's cool outside. The beginning of the fermentation process is indicated by the appearance of foam bubbles on the surface.

How do you know if a mullein is ready to eat? Everything is determined visually. Foam disappears, the characteristic smell of cow dung disappears. The smell of humus and rotten grass appears. The liquid itself becomes cloudy, but brightens noticeably. And the most important sign: all components sink to the bottom, and do not float on the surface.

Everything, cow dung as fertilizer is completely ready for use. Before direct use, it must be diluted clean water in a ratio of 1 to 10. The concentrated liquid contains a huge amount of free nitrogen, it will instantly burn the small feeding roots.

Natural helpers can be used to accelerate the ripening of cow dung. Earthworms significantly speed up the process. But in order for them to like such a dwelling, it is not enough to bring them from the garden or from the garden. In addition to manure, there should also be food in the pile. Food waste does an excellent job with this role. In particular:

banana peel
sleeping tea leaves
rotten and spoiled fruits, berries

Just don't pour in such a heap plain water to the state of a swamp. Earthworms love moisture, but not excessive moisture. By the way, they really don't like eggshell... And further. If possible, try to stir up cow dung at least once a week if possible if using this method. Or poke it through with a thick stick. This will allow oxygen to penetrate inside. The decay process will be reduced significantly.

How to use cow dung as fertilizer? A humorous wish, supposedly borrowed from Chinese wisdom, is suitable here: "Not toropis (manure must rot), not wave mass (your plants will have time to receive a treat), and smile (after all, you are the owner of such wealth)!"

Video: cow dung as fertilizer

Nowadays, agricultural experts have come up with many ways to help recycle organic substances and increase their useful properties. Most of them are uncomplicated and do not need to be used. special devices... The most popular methods for changing the structure of a mullein include composting, vermicomposting, adding humates and infusion.

Composting

To make compost, it is not enough to simply place it in a large container and wait until it is overheated. In this case, it will turn out that ordinary humus. This method is often used to store this substance. Compost is a more complex fertilizer containing many beneficial substances.

To get a full-fledged compost, you need to add a substrate from the last year to it. It will saturate the compost with beneficial bacteria that will decompose it. Above, they give a layer consisting of various organic waste, and cover it with a mullein. Such layers must be made until the height of the heap is 1-1.5 meters. Then it is poured with enough water and left for a while. Usually, overheating is carried out after 5-6 months, but to ensure that a high-quality fertilizer is obtained, it is better to let it stand for a year.

Composting with worms

Using this method, you can get not only a useful organic fertilizer, but also a constant source of soil nutrition. This is due to the presence of worms in its composition, which continue to live and multiply in the soil, thereby processing it.

To obtain compost, experts recommend using a hybrid of a red Californian worm with a Kuban one. Before processing mullein, slaked lime, ash or bone meal must be added to the substrate to increase the acidity. The optimal pH value is 7.5-8. In more alkaline environment worms will not be able to exist and will die.

Processing with humates

Humates are special substances that are used to speed up the processing of the mullein base during composting. This method of obtaining fertilizer allows you to reduce its consumption by 2-3 times, without reducing efficiency. This is a very beneficial method from an economic point of view.

Method of using humates: 2-3 months before fertilizing the soil with a mullein, it is watered with a solution containing humates. For 10 kg of mullein, you need about 10 g of humates. After watering, the pile must be thoroughly mixed to speed up the decomposition processes.

Infusion

This is the most quick way receiving. In this case, harmful bacteria and microorganisms die. The ammonia content in this fertilizer is minimal.
Method of obtaining: the mullein is poured with water in a ratio of 1: 1, covered and left for 1-2 weeks. The resulting mixture is diluted with water again, in a ratio of 1:10, and the plants are watered in the evenings. Liquid mullein is not recommended to be poured at the very root. At a short distance from the plant, dig out small recesses and pour the solution into them.

Using fresh mullein

In some cases, fresh manure is used, despite its disadvantages. This is justified if there is no time to wait for the compost to be processed.

V warm time years, a liquid solution is made from it. For 1 part of mullein, 4 parts of water are given. Plants are watered with this solution in the evenings. Pour 1.5 liters of the mixture onto 1 square meter.
In the fall, manure is used when digging the soil. 10 liters of mullein are added per 1 square meter and buried to a depth of 30-40 cm.

With winter fertilization, the mullein is scattered over the snow. 15 liters of mullein are added per 1 square meter. In winter, the mullein needs to be applied a third more than usual. This is due to the evaporation of large amounts of nitrogen when interacting with air.

In the spring, mullein is used as biofuel for the beds.

And a little about the secrets of the Author

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

inability to move easily and comfortably;
discomfort when going up and down stairs;
unpleasant crunching, clicking not on their own;