Make a milling table with your own hands. Homemade table for router

Hand routers, due to their affordable price, are popular among home carpenters. However, work on a simple workbench according to the principle: a fixed workpiece, a movable tool, inconvenient and dangerous.

The industry produces tables for carpentry, on which you can install a planer, circular saw, or milling cutter.

The device is reliable and convenient, but its cost is comparable to a power tool. Therefore, many craftsmen make such workbenches with their own hands. Since the presence of a tool makes it possible to make a table for a router with high quality, such homemade products look and function no worse than factory ones.

The general design principle is as follows: a smooth worktop is made of hard material (so that it does not wear out so quickly), on which the base plate of the router is attached. The instrument itself is placed upside down. A guide for the workpiece to be processed is fixed on the working surface.

Bench-type workbench

The most simple design, which does not require free space. It can be stored at home unassembled, and installed on any table if you need to get the job done. The advantage is compactness. Disadvantages: low stability, and restrictions on the size of machined parts.

This is a complete workbench without legs. Dimensions allow you to process any workpiece with high precision. At the same time, it is convenient to store the table in an upright position. However, an installation site is required to bring it into working condition. On the regular table the device cannot be installed - the milling cutter suspended from below will interfere. Usually the workbench is temporarily placed on extendable table, or remove the tabletop, and install the panel on the frame with legs.

To save space, another option is suitable: the workbench is attached to the wall with one side, folding supports are organized under it.

Separate router table

The design can combine several functions: a workbench, a chest of drawers for storing tools and materials, and the actual milling table.

The advantages are obvious: versatility, stability, work safety. There is only one drawback: a permanently allocated space is required. Therefore, this option is only suitable for the workshop; you cannot place a workbench on the loggia.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands?

For example, consider a full-fledged workbench with a chest of drawers for placing equipment. Of course, before starting work, you need to sketch a drawing (according to the dimensions of your manual router), and make a list of materials:

• Boards or wooden bars to make a frame.
• Chipboard sheets or solid wood panels for side panels and drawers.
• Hardboard sheet (fiberboard), or thin plywood for partitions.
• Two sheets of plywood 18-25 mm thick, or a finished kitchen worktop.
• Screws, bolts, confirmation, steel corners for assembly.
• Measuring tool: tape measure, ruler, angle.
• PVA glue.

Wood processing tool: Circular Saw, drill, planer, wrenches, screwdrivers.

Cooking load-bearing structure beds. We coat all connections with glue before tightening the screws.

We assemble the bed on a flat surface. We check the geometry: everything should be parallel and perpendicular.

We install partitions (they will act as stiffeners), and assemble the box for the router. The box is needed so that chips and sawdust are not scattered around the room. In the future, a bell can be adapted to it construction vacuum cleaner for waste disposal.

Set the main element - the work plane. It can be made from two sheets of plywood by gluing them together. To prevent vibrations, the thickness of the table must be at least 5 cm.

Can be used finished surface for the kitchen (commercially available in furniture stores). The main thing that upper layer was strong and smooth.

A steel plate is installed on the tabletop, flush with the surface, for attaching the base plate of the router. Also, it is desirable to insert profiles into the table to fix the guides.

It is advisable to fill all free niches with boxes in which equipment and fixtures for fixing workpieces will be stored. Some boxes are replaced by stands for cutters: holes are drilled in the thick bottom of the board according to the diameter of the shanks, and the cutters will not touch each other.

To ensure safety, it is advisable to install a safety cover in the working area, as on industrial models.

A cutter protruding from the table is a serious danger. If the hand slips off the workpiece, you can get injured. Another way to ensure the safety of work is a foot switch-pedal. A simple circuit is being assembled: a socket is installed between the power cord of the electric milling cutter and the common network cable, which is turned off by the pedal. Approaching the workbench, you press the pedal - the motor turns on. After finishing work, or in an emergency, the foot is removed from the pedal, and the router stops.

The finished table looks aesthetically pleasing, and allows you to competently organize working area, even in confined spaces.

Elevator for manual router

During normal operation, the operator of the manual milling machine lowers the shaft with the cutter using the tool handles. It's about about using the device without a machine. When the router is hung upside down from the tabletop, the router is in what is known as parking mode. A mechanism is needed to lift the machine into working position.

If multiple options:

• Fixing screw rod. With the help of a threaded stud, the required depth of penetration of the cutter is set. If necessary, it can be changed.

• Lever mechanism. Allows you to quickly change the height of the tool, even during operation. Expands the possibilities of the machine: in a sense, the router becomes three-dimensional.

• Screw trapezoid. Many masters use an ordinary car jack as an elevator. You raise the cutter exactly to the required height. It's comfortable, and the fixation of the position is quite accurate.

The considered option includes all the nuances of making a table for a router. You can use the technique at 100%, or adopt only the necessary technologies.

Usually, to perform some new work, new tools are required. As a programmer, I know this very well, since for many years I have to create libraries and write utilities for each new task. These are the very tools with which the solution of the following tasks becomes easier and easier. Probably so in many areas, except for those where you have to create everything from scratch, using only knowledge and skills. (Maybe that’s why I don’t really like, for example, to draw, that I’m used to using previous developments).

I finally finished my router table. (It took 7 evenings to create). At first I thought about buying a ready-made one, but those that I found for affordable money and suitable for my work did not suit me at all. And I decided to make it myself under the hand mill that I had Caliber FE-650E.

Milling table- a very useful needlework tool. I didn’t really think about it before, but if you look around in any house, you can see a lot of items that have been processed on the milling table: window frames, furniture doors, picture frames, wooden plinths, door frames, slips and more.

First, as usual, I modeled in a 3D program. I didn’t copy someone’s table, but developed a model for myself, having seen enough of ready-made similar milling tables on the internet. The idea is common, the essence is the same, the details are different, because everyone realizes for themselves, using what they have and what they are capable of.

The side stop has grooves-slots and can move back and forth and is fixed in the desired position by two lambs. A chip deflector is connected to the corner stop. (The milling cutter produces a lot of chips during operation) If required, the side stop can be easily removed and replaced with other devices or nothing at all.

The fence has two wings that can be moved apart and shifted depending on the size of the cutter. The position of each sash is fixed with lambs.

A conventional vacuum cleaner hose is connected to the chip deflector.

This router model did not have a fine depth adjustment. It was necessary to put pressure on the router and catch the desired depth with a latch. (It should be noted that this is terribly inconvenient. You have to suffer several times rearranging the depth to get to the right one)

Modified the frame by adding the so-called "elevator".

I drilled the bed and installed the adjusting screw with a high nut (in the picture in the center). By tightening the nut, you can smoothly adjust the depth.

This is how the depth is set: set desired value on the square, and the key raises the cutter until it stops in the square.

The only remaining inconvenience is that this procedure requires two hands. It is necessary to press the depth lock on the router with one hand and turn the nut with the other. I have a solution, but haven't had time to implement it yet. When done, it will be possible to adjust the depth with one hand. And the clamp to hold the corner will no longer be needed.

Please note that the upper part of the side stand is specially designed to be able to attach various devices to it.

In general, there are ready-made platforms for the manufacture of milling tables on sale. There are holes with holes for some specific models of the router; there are universal ones in which you can drill holes for your model yourself. The platforms are quite expensive (1500-5000r) and are much larger in size than required for my mini-table.

I made my platform for the router from plexiglass (6mm), removing the native plastic platform from the frame of the router.

Fitting glass to a window.

First trials.

The stand for cutters is processed with a cutter, which is on the left. I also processed the slats with her

By the way, a cutter with a roller does not require a side stop. These can be used to process edges on a bare table, although it is more convenient to have one more point of support, especially when processing cylindrical workpieces.

What I have left to do:
- Cut out a pair of glasses to install cutters of a larger diameter.
- Make clamping fixtures that are installed on the side stop and tabletop, providing a tight clamp on the workpiece to the cutter.
- Improve the convenient key that regulates the depth of the cutter.
- Workpiece advance limiters (on the side stop).
- Special paws-pushers for the workpiece (The milling cutter is a dangerous tool. If I seriously damage my hands, it will be especially bad for me, because I will not be able to play most musical instruments after that).
- Special stop for working with edge cutters.
- Corner stop with a protractor, a device that allows you to move the workpiece at a certain angle using a rail.
- Slides for feeding the workpiece on the table at a right angle.
- Device for cutting "box connections".
- A trap-container for chips. (The vacuum cleaner's original bag clogs very quickly)
- Well, and some other little things.

I hope that this post will be found by those who may find it useful.

Other interesting posts about my homemade tools:






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It is very difficult to cut grooves accurately and in size. For the manufacture of legs of tables and chairs, milling, jointing or drilling machines co special devices and moving tables. In the absence of stationary machines, the grooves are cut out with a manual milling cutter using a stop.

To cut a groove, you need to adjust the entire system of tables and clamping devices by eye, and the first time you almost always get an error. After additional settings, the error is eliminated, and you can make a backlog of parts. It is difficult to hold a hand-held milling cutter with your own hands, and sometimes during vibration there are errors and races towards the stop, especially when it hits a knot.

The problem is even more complicated if the part is single, or the groove is located on long distance from the edge of the board.

original idea

The table recommended in the article has a small weight and dimensions. It is quickly transferred, rebuilt and allows you to select grooves with great accuracy, quality and without errors. Working with a manual router with the help of the proposed table becomes simple and safe.

Important! The advantage and feature of the idea is that with the help of a transparent plexiglass material it is very quick and convenient to install the structure, aligning it with the marks on the workpieces.

The table for a manual router presented in the article is easy to do with your own hands.

Preparation for work

In order to make a table design for a manual router, you must have available the following materials and accessories:

materials

Accessories

Instruments

List of tools used in the manufacture of homemade fixtures:

• ruler;
• cutting knife;
• thick marker;
• pencil;
• finger cutters 10 mm, 16 mm;
• cutter conical;
• manual frezer;
• joiner's square;
• clamps;
• 8 mm;
• head for a chamfer on a drill;

The process of making a homemade table

Advice! To protect against chips, adhesive tape is glued in places of the slot. To this end, they also protect the places for drilling holes in plexiglass, with a drill with a chamfer head.

After that, the tape is removed. With a simple felt-tip pen, draw a line of the slot so that it clearly manifests itself.

Two strips of 500x50 mm in size are cut from plexiglass for the manufacture of guides for the milling table. The edges of the guides are ground to reduce friction.

Further, in the lower side of the plate for the platform, 3 holes are drilled on both sides. Carry out this operation with a chamfer head drill. The countersunk head screws will be inserted into these holes from below. On one of the plexiglass guide strips, 3 holes are cut, respectively. Then one guide is connected to the platform and the nuts and washers are baited.

A conical cutter is installed on a hand mill. The milling cutter is pressed against the platform, while the end of the cutter is aligned with the line in the center of the platform, and the bolt is clamped on the guide. Repeat this operation at the other end of the guide, and tighten all the bolts. Screw the second guide in the same way.

Thus, the hand router slides along the plexiglass platform along the guides, which rigidly fix it on both sides, avoiding errors and errors.

Then, using a milling machine, a groove for the cutter is cut, having previously marked its dimensions with a felt-tip pen on the platform. Since its width must be 1 mm larger than the largest finger cutter available, the groove is made in 3 passes.

At the next stage, it is necessary to make equipment for fastening the limiters from polystyrene. The limiters move and are fixed on the limiter base, which is attached to the table platform.

1. Cut blanks from polystyrene on a circular saw.
2. Milling grooves.
3. Drill holes for mounting.

The grooves are milled in the blanks of the limiters and inserted into the bases by threading the screws into the holes of the grooves. If necessary, the protruding screws are cut off with a grinder and the burrs are sanded with a file.

1. Drill holes in clamping bars.
2. A cutter is used to select a potai for the hats of furniture bolts.
3. Insert bolts into holes.

From the back of the platform, bars are inserted so that the bolts go into the slots for fixing the table. Wings are screwed onto furniture bolts and limiter screws.

The design of the milling table is made by hand, and is ready for use.

The procedure for using a homemade table

Beam milling

1. The workpiece is installed from below, covered on both sides with clamping bars and clamped. Using the markings on the plexiglass of the platform and the marks on the bar, the structure is oriented in such a way that the center of the bar is in the center of the platform. Clamp the lambs of the pressure bars. After that, the structure with the workpiece is clamped in a carpenter's vice.
2. With the help of markings on the bars, and a conical cutter, limiters are set and fixed.
3. Moving the hand mill along the guides from one limiter to another, changing the depth several times, select the grooves.

Milling grooves on the board

For this operation, you will need double-sided tape. The pressure bars are removed from the device.

1. Markings are made on the board with a pencil, adhesive tape is glued to the board and the platform is pressed against it in accordance with the markings.
2. Install and tighten the limiters.
3. Mill the groove.

The following figure shows the work of a manual router, made on bars and a board. The result of the assembly on spikes is also shown. All dimensions are perfectly accurate, and the process lasted for an hour.

Conclusion

Homemade table for a manual milling cutter, it is easy to perform, has a low cost. Along with this, it is quickly installed on the part, easily and accurately performs manual milling work. Using this device in the workshop, you can significantly increase the productivity of the carpenter.

Video

A milling machine is purchased for a variety of carpentry work. But, sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need for reconstruction of the workplace. A do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router is a great opportunity to save money cash and create quality work surface. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and in Everyday life this tool is quite useful. And more comfortable working conditions will make it simply indispensable.

Milling table

An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple do-it-yourself milling table even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If for the first time you decide to try yourself in this area, then do not despair, if you wish, you can make a table for a manual router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose ideal dimensions that are necessary for your premises. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.

Milling table drawing

A home-made milling table can not be distinguished from a store version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move on the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If this species to make processing stationary, then the master will go to work much less time and effort.

A do-it-yourself table for a router occupies a certain space in the room. Therefore, before mounting, decide which table you want to see:

• aggregate;
• removable;
• stationary.

Aggregate Portable Stationary

Remember that most of the work can only be done in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because a portable model is quite suitable for rare use, and a stationary model for daily use. workplace.

What parts does a milling table consist of?

A homemade milling table can be made alone without resorting to outside help. To do this, it is necessary to make all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become almost useless, as it will not perform its main duties. The do-it-yourself milling cutter consists of the following parts:

• countertops;
• beds;
• bottom stop;
• clamping combs;
• mounting plate.

The worktop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Perfect for this kitchen countertops, or, if not available, plain plywood. It is only worth remembering that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so the plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional means can make the surface smooth, for more convenient operation. In the center you need to make a hole to install the router.

The drawings of the milling table cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the tool. To do this, you can use old bedside tables, tables, but on condition that they are very durable. Some focus on metal models which is pretty practical.

Milling table from an old nightstand

The bottom stop fixed on a table-top, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made fixed, for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is very important element in work, since the quality of the cutter will depend on the evenness of all sides.

Clamping combs on the table for circulars and routers are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will face in his work.

Experts advise immediately installing sliding combs and stops, then the functionality of the working machine will increase significantly.

Assembly rules

Assembling the milling table with your own hands should take place in stages. First you need to decide on the countertop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material feed control systems are attached.

In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.

The milling machine itself must be firmly fixed under the table top. It should not dangle or hang, any movement can lead to injury during operation or damage to equipment. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.

The main thing in this way of working is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all sizes, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.

Electronics at work

Making a circular and milling table with your own hands is quite simple, but do not forget that this tool works from electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be in an inconvenient place for the master, you need to take care of their use. You can make an exit and set the start and stop buttons of the mechanism in convenient location, but this requires knowledge in electronics.

There is an alternative option that is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is clamped, and it is in a constantly on state, stopping only with a cable when disconnected from the mains.

A do-it-yourself new milling table must fully comply with flooring workplace. If the floors are uneven, legs with a movable mechanism should be made, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the table for the router to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases the service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.

1 2 3

Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. Install a protective glass on the longitudinal stop, which will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.

When making a router table at home, with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and better take care of your safety.

The workshop of any person contains all the tools necessary for him. But at the same time, an urgent need for arranging the workplace may be necessary, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with such goods.

Milling table drawing

The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need, what sizes will be convenient for you. The purchase option may not always be a way out. Do not be afraid and waste time, even a beginner will figure out how to make a table.

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How to make a homemade table for a manual router This table I made from 18 mm. plywood. Its thickness is enough to make the design very durable. To strengthen the structural elements, I used a metal corner with a section of 40x40 mm.

The tabletop has dimensions of 800x500 mm. A hole is cut in the center to match the size of the milling cutter sole. The sidewalls are attached to the tabletop on the corners with self-tapping screws. From below, the sidewalls are also connected with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. 4 holes 10 mm drilled in the tabletop. and driven nuts for fastening the combs are installed. A fork and a switch are made in the right sidewall for easy starting of the router. The "Start" button on the router itself is blocked.

The sole of the router is fastened with screws to a steel plate 2 mm thick. and size 200x200 mm. A recess is made in the tabletop and the plate is placed flush on top, attached to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is sawn out in the center of the plate.

A car jack was used to raise and lower the milling cutter. It is attached to the base of the table with self-tapping screws. The handle has been replaced with a homemade handwheel for smoother adjustment. The jack is not attached to the milling cutter in any way.

The guide rail is also made from plywood. Assembled with "Moment-joiner" glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws. In the middle part of the ruler there is a box with a hole for attaching the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner. Adjustment grooves are cut out on the sides of the ruler. 10 mm bolts are inserted into the tabletop, the ruler is attached to the bolts with eye nuts.

The combs are sawn from fir and serve to more tightly press the workpiece to the guide. Grooves are cut in the comb for moving along the countertop. To fix the combs to the tabletop, bolts with bushings are used.

To prevent the workpiece from moving up and down, a special spring stop is made of plywood. It is attached to the guide rail on the wing nuts.

That's the whole structure. And you can see more about this table in my film.